DIY Miata Turbo (Ep 6) Coolant Reroute
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- The Miata cooling system is well known to be undersized, especially if you add a turbo. The normal way to deal with this is a "reroute" kit, which sometimes costs hundreds of dollars. But this is the no-kits build! So I'll show you a way to reroute your coolant lines with things already on the car plus a couple of inexpensive hoses.
We also get into the design of the cooling system and why a reroute is a good idea!
Stuff:
Rear hose: amzn.to/3dXk5m8
Front hose: amzn.to/3jtO4n5
Pipe is 1-1/4" OD stainless - about 16 inches long
Gasket maker
Some one inch worm clamps
#NAMiata #MiataTurbo #DIY
OGPedxing is all about DIY, gadgets, and tools.
Nearly one year follow-up:. It's working great! No issues with how the heater works and the engine temps are excellent.
still going strong?
@@shirtz69r yep! Working great
@@OGPedXing Thanks mate. I've found this guide the most helpful one out there
running the turbo water lines to the heater core (I've heard) is a bad idea due to the high restriction in the CHRA. Usually people source the turbo water from the two small lines on the mixing manifold, however. So take what I say with a grain of salt. Excellent work man, can't wait to see where this goes.
Really good points. I debated this, the small line back to the mixing manifold is pretty good suction and I've heard the feed port in the block is pretty good pressure. So I'm not sure what it will do. I'm thinking if the heater actually works then that means some flow is getting through and I'll be ok to keep it. If not then it's just sitting there and I should probably change back to the regular way. The downside of the cheap reroute is normally a hose also goes from the front water neck to the heater core which is a lot of long hoses running around. Either way I'll post a follow up video with the results.
@@OGPedXing "a lot of long hoses running around" is not a downside compared to the awkward thermostat placement of the cheapo method, not to mention the questionable turbo water outlet line routing... you're correct that in the typical situation there is suction on the line back to the manifold and routing it elsewhere, especially to what is essentially a heatsink, is going to slow the warmup of the car and more importantly the warmup of the turbo. Just my $0.02, but in this case I think it's worth spending the money on a basic reroute kit to avoid the can of worms. Check out the IL Motorsport one, it comes with a bracket to support the long coolant line you don't like and it extends the new thermostat housing out from the back of the block so it's more accessible.
@@mjohnson5108 interesting about the warmup of the car, hadn't thought about it in quite that way. This is a stock port for the turbo feed so hopefully it won't be too bad. Also the normal flow to the core is replaced by this. Actually I was surprised at how easy the access was for the thermostat, I had no problems getting it in. There's a lot of space when you don't have a coil pack. So maybe this is only a good idea if you're in my situation of having COPs. I'll time the warmup and measure the heater temp and turbo temp, thank you for the constructive criticism, I appreciate it.
any updates? i cant see why this wouldnt work well!
I took this route on my 01. I stay below 190 here in central Fl.
Awesome, thanks for the feedback
What did you need to do the re-route on Nb2s? I'm going turbo soon and was wondering you replaced the HG w the 94-97 HG ?
your heat inside your car wont work after this? I want to do this but ther are times i would like some heat inside.
Yep! I've noticed no difference at all in heater performance.
is that a 1.8 cast iron ebay manifold? If so, did you have to get it sanded flat? Did you have leaks with it? Mine is leaking air somewhere after I've bolted it up twice with the turbo and downpipe on there. I think mine's leaking at the mating surface between the head and the manifold
Yes, eBay manifold. I did some testing with a feeler gauge and it was quite good...I think I tested from 0.003 or so. I also used a new metal OEM gasket (the three layer kind) that is well regarded by some other Miata guys I know. That part seems good still. My used turbo on the other hand...did some diy sanding with that and no gasket - it leaks a little. I've got a new metal gasket for it between the manifold and turbo and I may take it to get machined the next time it's off.
Hmmm coil pack doesn’t fit with the hose on mine :/ what should I do
It may be possible to modify the coil pack housing or even take a couple of pieces of flat stock to bolt to the existing two side holes and then bolt the coil pack up higher. Or do what I did and move to coil on plugs! No more plug wires to replace and a better spark. Although you do need a standalone ECU to change the dwell from stock.
What was the Gates part number for that hose that goes to the rear of the motor?
Weird I totally forgot to add that to the description.... thanks I'll put it in. It's a Gates 21864
Did you have to remove the CAS to remove/install the thermostat housing at the back of the head?
No, managed to get to it without removing the cas. I did need to use a mirror and razor to help get all the old gasket off, though. A little awkward back there. 😂
@@OGPedXing thanks, its definitely tight back there. Im going to try without removing the CAS and see how things go.
I think for part of it I put a pad over the engine and just laid down on top of it 😄
@@OGPedXing now that would have been fun to see on video lol 😆
Would this work on an NA6? the front necks look a little bit different.
The necks are different but I believe that it would work. The rear housing is the same size although the CAS may be in the way, not sure of the clearance. Double check though that there's a hole that the temp sensor can use. See the pic in this thread: forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=412482