I just started developing C41 at home and now RUclips takes me to this video for E6 😱 easy to follow tutorial though! I'll find this again when I'm ready haha
So I developed a roll of Provia 100 today which came out completely blank! I think that when I left the film sitting in water (by accident) during one of the wash steps the water was dark orange! During the subsequent washes (which I did quickly) the water was fairly clear. The instructions say "quickly rinse 7 times" and now I know why!
Washing deviations will not make an otherwise properly exposed and processed slide film turn black. Frankly, it sounds like you accidently processed an unexposed film.
In practice the film is light safe after the first developer provided that an adequate stop step is performed. The first developer develops the exposed halides as a black and white image, the color developer creates the dyes as the remaining halides are developed. The industry standard 6 step process does this chemically, but I have done the second exposure under a strong lamp too. In the kit shown the chemical for the reversal exposure is incorporated in the color developer.
Ok thanks. I’ve been using the 6 step E6 process (Fuji Hunt) at home for several years to develop Fuji Velvia and have always assumed that the film remains light sensitive until the fix stage is complete. No difference in practice as I use a drum and Jobo rotary processor, so the film is light tight until the end of the process anyway.
The film is light safe because the reversal step is equivalent to fully exposing all the silver halides in the film that were not developed (turned to metallic silver) by the first developer. There is no remaining unexposed material in the film. Long answer: 1. You’ve got an unexposed roll of slide film in your camera. This film is made of 3 layers of silver halide emulsion, each sensitive to a different color of light (red, green, and blue), and each containing a dye coupler of the opposite color (cyan, magenta, yellow). 2. You take a picture. This exposes some of the silver halides in each layer which causes them to undergo a chemical change. Now, in each layer, you have two kinds of crystals, exposed and unexposed, which are chemically different from each other. 3. You put in the first developer. This is a black and white developer. It causes all the exposed silver crystals to become black particles of metallic silver. Now you have a negative black and white image on each layer. 4. You put in the color developer. Because this developer is for reversal (slide) film it contains a chemical which causes all the unexposed silver crystals to change into exposed (but not developed) crystals. So now you have a developed negative image and a latent (exposed, but not developed) positive image. The color developer also contains a chemical which causes a dye cloud to form around each crystal which has been exposed, but has not been turned into metallic silver. This turns our latent image into a visible positive image. It is made by forming dye around all the silver crystals which were NOT originally exposed in the camera. 5 You put in blix, aka bleach fix. Bleach removes the developed metallic silver, fix removes the undeveloped silver halides (which are still sensitive to light over the long term). Anyway, not sure why I decided to write a dissertation on reversal film in the RUclips comments section, but I hope someone finds it informative. Note: color film is actually made of more than 3 layers, but they're not really important in understanding this aspect of development.
For 120 film you can use a standard tank + reel - filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-two-reel-development-tank
hi first can you do 67cm film and how would you do 4x5"? i have returned to this after a long pause from the late 80's to early 90's and the world has lost interest in anything of substance? help. ps i cant find any labs, not even kodak
Hi, for 4x5 you can use a special reel + tank - filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-4x5-6-sheet-film-reel-reel-tank
@@matthewledoux9662 I'm not sure about Ektachrome, but you can process vision3 film in c41 chemicals. It doesn't turn out as well, and some of the remjet layer comes off into the chemicals, essentially making it unusable again, but it is possible. I would assume it's the same with Ektachrome
It looks like this kit doesn't contain formalin or a suitable alternative! That's a necessary component for long term stability of E6. Very surprised Unicolor didn't include it in a stabilizer.
Formalin is used to prevent fungus and as a gelatin hardener. Newer emulsion gelatin layers do not have the attraction to fungus as they did year ago and film no longer need the hardening they did years ago. May discontinued the use of a formalin stabilizer years ago with fears of the chemical as a carcinogen. Modern films have much better dyes that were much more stable and they discontinued the formalin type stabilizers. The most critical thing affecting the stability of an E6 film is a thorough washing to rid the film of residual bleach fix.
I thought it was only C41's that no longer need the formalin, and the dye couplers were never updated for E6? That was my impression from former Kodak engineer Ron Mowrey, that it would still risk magenta fade.
@@KyleMahaney That's my understanding as well. Tetenal still supplies a formalin stabilizer for both their 3 bath E6 and C41 kits. While it may not be necessary for modern C41, it probably can't hurt either.
I have been waiting on video before buying this kit, now I can. So several rolls, what does that mean to you? 2,4,6,8,10 rolls? I know no one ever wants to put a hard number on any of these kits but a guideline would be great for the people that are not experienced, Like me. Thanks.
If you follow directions, I think 10 rolls...if you're Mark Dalzell, 25 rolls! (Squeeze out extra air before capping really helps preserve the chemistry!)
10 rolls EASY--of course it also depends on how long between rolls and if you're doing Super 8 vs 35mm still film, vs 16mm etc. Keep your chemicals cool and in a dark space and as Mike says, squeeze out any extra air before capping but these chemicals will absolutely pay for themselves over time (in my personal experience, anyway!)
Hi guys, thanks so much for your effort in keeping film alive! Yesterday I finally went through this process and developed my first 25 feet of 16mm ektachrome movie film as a test to see how it came out. After the prewash and first developer I noticed that when I returned the 1st Dev back to its container the color changed to a "light orange kool-aid" tone and now Im worried that I might have destroyed the chemistry. Is this normal or am i going to have to buy a new kit ? The film developed fine except that I overexposed almost 18 feet, I guess that for reversal film its better to keep exposure on point.
Hi David! Glad you found the video helpful. It is not uncommon for the chemistry to change colour after coming into contact with film. I wouldn't sweat it!
@@owenthegenealogist Hey Owen and David, If I am looking to use this kid with a Lomo tank and some super 8 film, do I need to buy more than one kit to have enough fluid to fill enough of the tank? Is one quart enough?
Kodak Vision is a color negative film - Use this kit for color negs - filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
you gotta remove remjet for the vision 3 motion picture stock, you can use a towel with some mineral oil as lubricant to wipe the remjet off the negs or use a borax, baking soda and water mix.
Okay for remjet, but the main point here is that the E-6 slide process is totally not compatible with color negative film of any type or brand, so the direct answer to the question is NO.
You will also need the basic darkroom tools - tank, beakers, etc. to develop your color slide film. Not included - These addl items are available at The FPP Darkroom Supply section. filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies These are one time purchases. Your developing tank, reels, etc can be used for developing all films (color neg, bw) Best wishes!
You can get a uneven result, this applies to first developer, color developer and blix steps. In my case I have a ton of well stored expired Ektachrome rolls so I expect some aging signs like magenta/purple shadows, but other than that they come out really lovely!
Definite color shifts if not at the proper temp. Get a FPP Heat Helper! filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-heat-helper?variant=15891480936482
@@Noealz The instructions in the box also display how long you'll need to process the film in each chemical for different temperatures. The manufacturer recommends 100F for the best results. I use a device like the FPP Heat Helper and it's easy, cheap, and extremely accurate!
Shipping heavy qiquids is expensive. Hope the low cost of the kit and the fact that you can really squeeze lots of rolls using the kit makes it worthwhile!
@Michael Raso That's too bad! I'l just have to cross process, then :-) I already use your powder colour negative kit with great success! Thanks for making that one!
I don't use FPP because their shipping is overpriced but I love all their content and and that they keep pushing for anything novel for home film users.
Can i use this kit also for Kodak 50D Color Negatives or is it only for Ektachrome? I just start to work with Super 8 so i have not that much knowledge about it.
Also a tip for more even developing would be to fill the tank first and dunk the reel into the tank to avoid one part of the film developing before another.
The developing tank here is what keeps the film from hitting light. What you're suggesting would be impossible with this or a Patterson development tank.
@@terrybailey2015 I don’t mean during the FD, I mean during the section where it can be exposed to light, when he poured the chemical directly onto the film. That’s where I’m suggesting filling the tank and then dunking the spiral into it.
Color developing is all about consistency. To do so, one needs to keep the temperature withing process limits. For First Developer it is +/- 0.3 degrees Celsius. Yes, POINT three. It can be easly done, but not like on this video.
True, the accuracy of the temperature of the developer during the first development process step is critical to getting good density and contrast. If you are processing in a tank which is not itself temperature controlled DURING the development step, then you need to start the process at a bit higher temp to allow for heat loss during the development. To test, start at 100 deg F, and "process" without film using just water for the time of the first development step. Measure the temp of the water at the end of the step (the "drop"). Divide the drop by two and add that to your starting temp. The process then averages out to your target process temperature. This works perfectly. The other process steps should be about the same temp, but the requirement is that they fully complete their chemical process of the film, so if you loose a little temp, just process a little longer. "Too long" will not hurt your result. Finally (1st), really wash the film, not the" tap into the tank" method used here. Get a hose into the center of the reel, flushing water into the bottom and up through the film. Finally (2nd), if your kit does not have a stabilizer, make one. The formulas are on the internet and require only a bit if Photoflo and formalin (drugstore) to prepare. Use after the final wash to soak the film, then dry film.
Great demo/instructional video, but I could do without the 'Here Comes Hell' soundtrack. I get it, you are no Walter Murch, but dude, you could have chosen a better sound track, if at all.
On headphones the background sounds like a muffled version of hell trying to get out.
Hilarious!
Bahahaha. I saw this comment first and watched the video. Laughed my tail off for three minutes. Thanks, man.
The video is shot on top of what looks like a washing machine, so I think that's what the sound is.
omnesilere great! Can’t wait to hear it
I like this video, but I heard that and I get anxious lmfao
I just started developing C41 at home and now RUclips takes me to this video for E6 😱 easy to follow tutorial though! I'll find this again when I'm ready haha
You guys are the best
So I developed a roll of Provia 100 today which came out completely blank! I think that when I left the film sitting in water (by accident) during one of the wash steps the water was dark orange! During the subsequent washes (which I did quickly) the water was fairly clear. The instructions say "quickly rinse 7 times" and now I know why!
Washing deviations will not make an otherwise properly exposed and processed slide film turn black. Frankly, it sounds like you accidently processed an unexposed film.
Hi. Was surprised to hear that the film is light safe after the second dev and before the Blix (fixing) stage.
In practice the film is light safe after the first developer provided that an adequate stop step is performed. The first developer develops the exposed halides as a black and white image, the color developer creates the dyes as the remaining halides are developed. The industry standard 6 step process does this chemically, but I have done the second exposure under a strong lamp too. In the kit shown the chemical for the reversal exposure is incorporated in the color developer.
Ok thanks. I’ve been using the 6 step E6 process (Fuji Hunt) at home for several years to develop Fuji Velvia and have always assumed that the film remains light sensitive until the fix stage is complete. No difference in practice as I use a drum and Jobo rotary processor, so the film is light tight until the end of the process anyway.
The film is light safe because the reversal step is equivalent to fully exposing all the silver halides in the film that were not developed (turned to metallic silver) by the first developer. There is no remaining unexposed material in the film.
Long answer:
1. You’ve got an unexposed roll of slide film in your camera. This film is made of 3 layers of silver halide emulsion, each sensitive to a different color of light (red, green, and blue), and each containing a dye coupler of the opposite color (cyan, magenta, yellow).
2. You take a picture. This exposes some of the silver halides in each layer which causes them to undergo a chemical change. Now, in each layer, you have two kinds of crystals, exposed and unexposed, which are chemically different from each other.
3. You put in the first developer. This is a black and white developer. It causes all the exposed silver crystals to become black particles of metallic silver. Now you have a negative black and white image on each layer.
4. You put in the color developer. Because this developer is for reversal (slide) film it contains a chemical which causes all the unexposed silver crystals to change into exposed (but not developed) crystals. So now you have a developed negative image and a latent (exposed, but not developed) positive image. The color developer also contains a chemical which causes a dye cloud to form around each crystal which has been exposed, but has not been turned into metallic silver. This turns our latent image into a visible positive image. It is made by forming dye around all the silver crystals which were NOT originally exposed in the camera.
5 You put in blix, aka bleach fix. Bleach removes the developed metallic silver, fix removes the undeveloped silver halides (which are still sensitive to light over the long term).
Anyway, not sure why I decided to write a dissertation on reversal film in the RUclips comments section, but I hope someone finds it informative.
Note: color film is actually made of more than 3 layers, but they're not really important in understanding this aspect of development.
Can I use this chemicals with KODAK EKTACHROME 100D ?
Yes. You will need a special tank for movie film - filmphotographyproject.com/processing-movie-film-tank-manage/
i just saw your 4x5" tanks, wonderful! now what to do about 67cm??? please?
For 120 film you can use a standard tank + reel - filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-two-reel-development-tank
Very clear and professional
Thank you. 👌
Well done and inspiring.
hi first can you do 67cm film and how would you do 4x5"? i have returned to this after a long pause from the late 80's to early 90's and the world has lost interest in anything of substance? help. ps i cant find any labs, not even kodak
Hi, for 4x5 you can use a special reel + tank - filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-4x5-6-sheet-film-reel-reel-tank
Hi, great video. Thanks for the info. Is there no Remjet on Super8 Ektachrome?
Vintage Ektachrome 160 - yes. New Ektachrome 100D - no.
@@FilmPhotographyProject on the vintage Ektachrome 160g will the E6 process work and if so when do you do the Remjet removal. Thanks!
@@matthewledoux9662 I'm not sure about Ektachrome, but you can process vision3 film in c41 chemicals. It doesn't turn out as well, and some of the remjet layer comes off into the chemicals, essentially making it unusable again, but it is possible. I would assume it's the same with Ektachrome
@@okok72277 Thank you very much 👍
Got it coming. Got your film from the Army’s deep freeze.
what is that ambient background music?you should do a collab with "the caretaker"
LMAOOO STAGE 5
@@kijetesantakaluSokete stage 6 you forgot you developed E-6...
@@Stevenstevio i mean it sounds like stage 5 lol
Is this somehow possible to buy if I’m based outside the usa?
No, as liquid photo chemistry can not be shipped overseas from the US.
Do you agitate for 15 seconds every 30 seconds, or simply agitate a little bit every 30 seconds? Thanks
Can you tell me where I can download the instruction sheet, it doesn't seem to be in the box. thanks. By the way, great video.
Dude just write down what he’s doing
Is loading and developing the movie super 8 film the same as loading still 35mm? And where can we get the loading tank and reels for this?
Hi James, Yes it is. Head over to eBay and search Lomo Tank. You can do it!
@@michaelraso and how would one go about getting that roll to digital?
What tank - filmphotographyproject.com/content/howto/2019/06/processing-movie-film-tank-manage/
@@malcolmlombardi7838 The FPP offers Process/Scan and Scan services - filmphotographystore.com/collections/fpp-scanning-services
whats with the horror film background music
do you guys sell that big developing tank for super 8?
No, try e-bay. (Most ship from Ukraine)
@@michaelraso Thanks for the info I going to give this developing super 8 at home a shot, looks pretty tricky.
It looks like this kit doesn't contain formalin or a suitable alternative! That's a necessary component for long term stability of E6. Very surprised Unicolor didn't include it in a stabilizer.
Formalin is used to prevent fungus and as a gelatin hardener. Newer emulsion gelatin layers do not have the attraction to fungus as they did year ago and film no longer need the hardening they did years ago. May discontinued the use of a formalin stabilizer years ago with fears of the chemical as a carcinogen.
Modern films have much better dyes that were much more stable and they discontinued the formalin type stabilizers. The most critical thing affecting the stability of an E6 film is a thorough washing to rid the film of residual bleach fix.
I thought it was only C41's that no longer need the formalin, and the dye couplers were never updated for E6? That was my impression from former Kodak engineer Ron Mowrey, that it would still risk magenta fade.
@@KyleMahaney That's my understanding as well. Tetenal still supplies a formalin stabilizer for both their 3 bath E6 and C41 kits. While it may not be necessary for modern C41, it probably can't hurt either.
I have been waiting on video before buying this kit, now I can. So several rolls, what does that mean to you? 2,4,6,8,10 rolls? I know no one ever wants to put a hard number on any of these kits but a guideline would be great for the people that are not experienced, Like me. Thanks.
If you follow directions, I think 10 rolls...if you're Mark Dalzell, 25 rolls! (Squeeze out extra air before capping really helps preserve the chemistry!)
Michael Raso Thank you very much. I guess this will be in my next order with some more retrochrome 400!
10 rolls EASY--of course it also depends on how long between rolls and if you're doing Super 8 vs 35mm still film, vs 16mm etc. Keep your chemicals cool and in a dark space and as Mike says, squeeze out any extra air before capping but these chemicals will absolutely pay for themselves over time (in my personal experience, anyway!)
Hi guys, thanks so much for your effort in keeping film alive! Yesterday I finally went through this process and developed my first 25 feet of 16mm ektachrome movie film as a test to see how it came out. After the prewash and first developer I noticed that when I returned the 1st Dev back to its container the color changed to a "light orange kool-aid" tone and now Im worried that I might have destroyed the chemistry. Is this normal or am i going to have to buy a new kit ? The film developed fine except that I overexposed almost 18 feet, I guess that for reversal film its better to keep exposure on point.
Hi David! Glad you found the video helpful. It is not uncommon for the chemistry to change colour after coming into contact with film. I wouldn't sweat it!
@@owenthegenealogist Hey Owen and David, If I am looking to use this kid with a Lomo tank and some super 8 film, do I need to buy more than one kit to have enough fluid to fill enough of the tank? Is one quart enough?
Thanks will this also work for Kodachrome 64 35 mm color slides?
Hi Niki. Will not. Kodachrome was process K14 which no longer exists. ruclips.net/video/iJPgshLhQBw/видео.html
Niiiiice chromes!
wow, very cool !
This is awesome but wondering if I can buy this stuff if I live in the UK?
U cant
1:02 what is it?
FPP E6 Home Development Kit - filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-rapid-e6-slide-development-kit
can I use the E-6 quart chemicals on 35mm film?
Yes, you can. Any size film actually.
Great tutorial for E6 - Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Made it look easy! How did you manage to scan all that film???
James Lane scanned by the Film Photography Project!
Hi. Can I use this kit for new Super 8 Ektachrome film? Thank you.
Yes, you can but you will need a special tank - filmphotographyproject.com/content/howto/2019/06/processing-movie-film-tank-manage/
@@FilmPhotographyProject yes, I know. Thank you very much.
New super 8 you mean 100 D?
loved it :-) What's that dev tank you used?
abetterangle Lomo UB1 tank!
Shelf life after mixing?
6 months or 12 rolls, whatever comes first
Awesome tutorial!
Thanks!
Could you develop 16mm Vision 3? Is there a remjet you have to remove?
Kodak Vision is a color negative film - Use this kit for color negs - filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter
you gotta remove remjet for the vision 3 motion picture stock, you can use a towel with some mineral oil as lubricant to wipe the remjet off the negs or use a borax, baking soda and water mix.
Okay for remjet, but the main point here is that the E-6 slide process is totally not compatible with color negative film of any type or brand, so the direct answer to the question is NO.
Does the kit include everything you need? Or just the chemicals?
Cos then it won’t just be $30 to develop your own film. You’ll also have to buy jugs and and a developing tank and tanks cost quite a bit.
You will also need the basic darkroom tools - tank, beakers, etc. to develop your color slide film. Not included - These addl items are available at The FPP Darkroom Supply section. filmphotographystore.com/collections/darkroom-supplies
These are one time purchases. Your developing tank, reels, etc can be used for developing all films (color neg, bw) Best wishes!
What happens if everything is not at 100 degrees?
I was about to ask this too haha
You can get a uneven result, this applies to first developer, color developer and blix steps.
In my case I have a ton of well stored expired Ektachrome rolls so I expect some aging signs like magenta/purple shadows, but other than that they come out really lovely!
Definite color shifts if not at the proper temp. Get a FPP Heat Helper! filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-heat-helper?variant=15891480936482
@@Noealz The instructions in the box also display how long you'll need to process the film in each chemical for different temperatures. The manufacturer recommends 100F for the best results. I use a device like the FPP Heat Helper and it's easy, cheap, and extremely accurate!
I bought the kit but wondering what I should be using as a stabilizer if I even need one?
Do not need a stabilizer for modern E6 kits.
The overseas shipping is more than the actual kit :-(
Shipping heavy qiquids is expensive. Hope the low cost of the kit and the fact that you can really squeeze lots of rolls using the kit makes it worthwhile!
Or you could just make a powder version :-)
@@thedondeluxe6941 Powder E6 not an option at this time.
@Michael Raso That's too bad! I'l just have to cross process, then :-) I already use your powder colour negative kit with great success! Thanks for making that one!
I don't use FPP because their shipping is overpriced but I love all their content and and that they keep pushing for anything novel for home film users.
Nice one 👏👌👍
Nice!
The mixing instructions section sounds so ominous with whatever is playing in the background. Sounds like something is about to happen 😈
Can i use this kit also for Kodak 50D Color Negatives or is it only for Ektachrome? I just start to work with Super 8 so i have not that much knowledge about it.
No color negatives, slide film only
Any "E6" color slide film.
Also a tip for more even developing would be to fill the tank first and dunk the reel into the tank to avoid one part of the film developing before another.
The developing tank here is what keeps the film from hitting light. What you're suggesting would be impossible with this or a Patterson development tank.
@@terrybailey2015 I don’t mean during the FD, I mean during the section where it can be exposed to light, when he poured the chemical directly onto the film. That’s where I’m suggesting filling the tank and then dunking the spiral into it.
Color developing is all about consistency. To do so, one needs to keep the temperature withing process limits. For First Developer it is +/- 0.3 degrees Celsius. Yes, POINT three. It can be easly done, but not like on this video.
True, the accuracy of the temperature of the developer during the first development process step is critical to getting good density and contrast. If you are processing in a tank which is not itself temperature controlled DURING the development step, then you need to start the process at a bit higher temp to allow for heat loss during the development. To test, start at 100 deg F, and "process" without film using just water for the time of the first development step. Measure the temp of the water at the end of the step (the "drop"). Divide the drop by two and add that to your starting temp. The process then averages out to your target process temperature. This works perfectly. The other process steps should be about the same temp, but the requirement is that they fully complete their chemical process of the film, so if you loose a little temp, just process a little longer. "Too long" will not hurt your result. Finally (1st), really wash the film, not the" tap into the tank" method used here. Get a hose into the center of the reel, flushing water into the bottom and up through the film. Finally (2nd), if your kit does not have a stabilizer, make one. The formulas are on the internet and require only a bit if Photoflo and formalin (drugstore) to prepare. Use after the final wash to soak the film, then dry film.
what the fuck did you use as background "music"?
Great demo/instructional video, but I could do without the 'Here Comes Hell' soundtrack. I get it, you are no Walter Murch, but dude, you could have chosen a better sound track, if at all.