I’m an OG and in the 70s I did 6 bath for GAF slides. Thing I remember was the temperature (duhh). Here we are 45 years later. Found old GAF that’s been frozen for decades. Going to try it with the 3 bath. Got the mixer / heater. Need some thermometers. Let you know
I actually have had really good results with cinestill’s C41 and mono bath B&W, it’s how I learned developing, and it’s been great, eventually I will move forward to more traditional development, but right now, cinestill for black and white and color is great! The black and white monobath is insanely easy.
Get into caffenol if you wanna dig deep into b&w film & paper dev. I have great results. It's my only b&w dev. Be prepared to experiment and make your own dev times! The Delta recipe is great to start with. And then the stand dev recipe from the caffenol handbook is good to start for stand dev which imo is the best way to push develop w caffenol (be careful about bromide drag! Agitate once in the middle of your cycle)
I use the DF96 Monobath solution when I am doing short strips of 35 mm black and white film with my homemade pinhole camera. Load the strip in the dark, take a picture, put the strip in the developing tank in the dark, microwave the DF96 Monobath for 1 minute and 20 seconds, pour it in, agitate continuously for the first 30 seconds, then for 3 seconds every 30 seconds, dump it back into the bottle after 8 minutes, and take out the film strip and rinse it well. A small strip doesn't put a whole lot of wear on this chemistry and it is reusable for quick and dirty experiments.
Recently shot some E6 medium format (in a Fujica GL690), developed it in a tetenal kit, and 6x9 slides just look amazing! Also around the same time used some expired Fuji film (RTPII tungsten balanced) in my large format, and though a bit of a blue cast (remember tungsten balanced) it is also looking great. Probably not going to it all that often (cause expensive) but there is something to slide film that isn't comparable to color negatives
love tetenal it is the best kit we uesd, sadley tetenal dosent make it any more. so we tryed this and its not recomentable. worst E6 pictures we ever got
Analog film is yes an expensive film and in some cases, tedious and time consuming. But dammit, there’s nothing for satisfying than having that developed film that you can physically have, rather than on an SD card or USB
I also had the problem of getting dark and or blueish colors using the cinestill kit. Also i had one roll of velvia processed by a lab and one done by myself using dynamic chrome and it had like much less saturation. I thought that i had some sort of cross contamination issue, but seeing that you have the same issue makes me confident that it's simply the character of this kit. Since that i have switch to the tetenal kit and i'm now getting lab-like vibrancy, color and light on my slides
Nice! I am currently using the cinestil e6 kit with dynamic chrome first developer and it's a lovely kit! I can't scientifically prove that dynamic chrome has the advantage it claims but my darker slides has a good level of details when I shine light through it. I have used the tetenal kit in the past when it was affordable but I couldn't get a kit within Sweden for my 12 rolls I shot in 2022 and it's too expensive nowadays! I am also the agitation stick person as I find it easier than if I would move the whole tank! C41 film developed in e6 chemistry give you blue toned slides, also as I understand you need to do 2 stop push in order to get a good results. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much for making this video on developing Slide Film. I've accidentally purchased "Adox Scala 50" only realizing that it's black and white reversal film. I would love to be able to develop it at home but can't find the kit for this type of film. But after watching this video, it's motivated me into possibly getting more film and shooting maybe three rolls and do a project with it. Also, thank you for always showing when you get mixed results. Most other videos from other people never want to show the mistakes or their mixed results for some weird reason. Great video like always. You and FPP have gotten me back into film photography. Thank you.
You might try this: The 104 degrees is suppose to be throughout the process. It starts cooling, so you are not at temp. They suggest in the instructions to test water and see how much in cools. If it cools 8 degrees from start to the time finish, you set the starting temp at 108 degrees and it will cool to 100. Average 104. Mine were a LITTLE darker, but really beautiful. I believe you need to do the compensating temp thing for the first two steps if I recall.
For E6 film I send everything to AgX Imaging in Michigan, it's a slide film exclusive lab, the results are great and development prices are reasonable.
Great video, thanks for the info. Just like to say that over the pond , here in England, it's not quite as expensive as Canada but still not cheap. However, one thing you didn't touch on is the satisfaction involved in shooting film and developing it yourself. I'm predominantly a digital shooter these days, but really enjoy the analogue experience (despite the cost). Digital may be cheaper (after the initial setup cost) but analogue just makes you slow down and consider the process and art of photography more.
So when I developed the same batch I sent you for the E100D I used the Cinestill Dynamic kit... I got dark results as well. I first chalked it up to my FM3a having it's original 20 year old low batteries, causing the exposure meter to be off. But my roll done in the F6 with proper exposure also came out somewhat dark. I've never been that great with slides but for the last roll I overdeveloped and they were better... even the edge markings were brighter telling me it was the development, I think Cinestill is off with their numbers somewhere. I haven't honed in the process yet but I'll probably send it out rather than trusting my non experimental rolls to a Cinestill kit anymore. I'm glad you were able to get to use the roll at any rate!
Have used the Cinestill kit, but have been using the Tetenal kit which I have found to last WAY longer and is far cheaper. I used the Tetenal kit to dev some Super 8, and it looks awesome projected. Nice video!
You mentioned that your roll of Velvia 50 was darker and blue, that would be an issue that Velvia has when shooting in the shade which results in a blue cast on the image. The best way to eliminate that blue cast would be having a warming filter like a 81a-c filter that would help out with eliminating the blue cast on the image. Plus I would recommend using a warming filter in general when using slide film.
I was quite shocked when I developed my Provia 100 in this kit. The result was very similar to yours (simply dark and seems underdeveloped), I was shaking my head where I made mistake. I go 2nd iteration, and try to increase time for about 3 minutes from (9->12), results where slightly better. I have much better results while using Tetenal E6 kit, never let me down.
Yeah, I was the same with the Tetenal kit, but it’s come to my attention they don’t exist anymore. No more Tetenal E-6….. Do you know if the cinestill kit can be re-used? I’m pretty sure they brand it as single-use annoyingly.
Fuji Hunt claims their kit is still available, but I haven't seen it sold anywhere since the last Christmas. Bellini is readily available in Europe, and Jobo has launched their kit recently. Besides Fuji Pro6 in large quantities, these are the 6-bath E6 kits readily available in Europe in fall 2022. I would not suggest using 3-bath kits, as the quality of the slides is not as good as with a 6 bath kit, if developed properly.
very cool! interesting, if nothing else. great video as always! :) Also, video idea: you often mention how you can't pull film into the light before development, how you need development, etc., and other film basics. maybe a helpful introduction for absolute beginners would be a video going over what film actually is, roughly how it works, both in exposure and development and so on. Just to bring everyone up to speed. I know I would have appreciated that a few years ago.
Thank you. I loved transparency film. Yes exposure matters with transparency film, but that's what set's it apart. For me, the limited dynamic range made it easier to expose for contrast and/or color saturation - like in the cinema. I could do more in camera by knowing the film I had in camera. Years ago a PC Magazine columnist, John Dvorak, after carrying around two different digital cameras, noted "the film was the camera". It seems he was kind of right. The film and chemical development have been replaced by the raw file from the sensor and software. Before I could change the film in my camera, nowadays it seems like I have to change camera.
Is slide film expensive? Yes. Is it good value? Debatably, no. Will I still keep shooting it? DUCK YES! I've been watching since ya first vid, back when there was less film info on yt. I was just getting started back then and your channel was a big help getting me interested in film and photography in general. I can say for certain will be shooting 35mm until it matches the price of expired fp100c. (rip.. I remember when that stuff was cheap and new ) Your channel is to blame for almost all of my film knowledge, So thanks.
I had the same issues with the Cinestill E-6 Kit (Mine was the dynamic rather than the daylight developer). Good color balance but way too dark. Digitizing involved pumping a ton of light through the film to try to get the image back up to where it was naturally but the shadows are so muddy because the film was just too dense.
Kits producing slides that must be corrected digitally is simply not acceptable. These films are meant to be projected with no editing. So, if a certain kit can't do it, you probably should avoid using it.
That’s a good note on budget at the end. I develop at home for the sake of making the hobby more affordable. Normalizing home developing makes the entire hobby way more accessible for people who may find it cost prohibitive. Also, 15:43 had me rolling.
Thanks for the video! Quick question please: Is the first developer diluted 1+1 (50% mixed developer and 50% freshly added water) all warmed at 40 degrees Celsius?
I’m so happy you posted this video! I just bought the Arista E6 kit and have been shooting some Velvia 100 that expired at the end of May. I also have a package of fresh Provia that I will shoot eventually. It’s all so expensive, but I wanted to get to experience it. I’m a huge fan of the Velvia look, so I’m particularly excited to see the results. And man, when you mentioned how far away 2018 seems, I felt it. A fucking eternity is right.
I do love slide film also, never shot a roll but I have a couple of thousand Kodachrome slides of my Dads. I will be trying slide film this year, so gorgeously saturated
Glad I came across this video! I’ve developed 4x5 twice with Cinestill E-6 kit and had the same issue compared to using the Arista kit. I’m guessing the development needs to be longer than 6 minutes. It sucks that the images I developed were from a trip I can’t just repeat when I want.
I've actually used the dynamicchrome before with some rather weird results. With expired film, it's honestly the best way I found to develop my ancient 1983 ekta 64T. Meaning, I get like 30% dmax instead of 10% heh. But when I used it with other stocks I realized that even at the suggested dev times film would come out looking like one or even two stops. Velvia was probably the worst regrettably, though when I finally nailed the first dev push necessary to process it correctly it was absolutely gorgeous as per usual. I also noticed that my fresh ekta 100 4x5 sheets came out a bit bluer than my normal unicolor kit I use. It's weird because I've used their C41 kit when I run out of other stuff since a local shop typically has it in stock and it's fairly cheap, and that one I've done crazy pushes with and had perfectly serviceable results. Maybe it was also because of how new the E6 processing kits were at the time that I used them, I think CS had released them just the month before when I found dynamicchrome and the other chems at a local store. I think I documented a bit of the process with that 64T a while ago, I'd have to look if I took any timing notes. Long story short, the first black and white dev is rather weak and I would definitely encourage pushing when you can to get a better result. It can get that proper look for the most part, but it does require some calibration and a lot of time extension.
Velvia needs to be pushed about one stop, in reference to "Kodak times", that work for Ektachrome and Provia. That is 7:00 to 7:15 minutes of 1st developer instead of standard 6:00 in 38°C. I´m referring to standard E-6, not Cinestill or Tetenal 3-bath kits.
A few days ago I was debating wether to go with Cinestill or Bellini as my first E-6 chemicals. I went with Bellini. Looking at this video it seems I made the right choice.
UPDATE: Full six-bath E-6 is fucking difficult. Near impossible to get replicable results. If you don't have a JOBO or a consistent way to develop it just get a three bath Tetenal kit!! Way fewer baths and not nearly as temperature/time sensitive as the six-bath process
Hint for expired film. I recommend that you increase by one or two stops on your camera. Also, you can do 1+ push film development. As for chemicals, they should be left in heated water until you use 'em.
I've used the Fuji kit and it is amazing. Shame they seem to have stopped making it for a while. It's not officially discontinued but you can't buy it. The tetnal kit also great And I have used it as well.
Been loving all the home developing videos! Now, after shooting some ektachrome rolls myself, i'm thinking of giving E6 at home a try! Aweasome content, as always, cheers, Noah!
Us newbies watch in pain as this video unfolds. If I had six processes, there's no way I would mash any 2 processes together. Yes, distilled water, but I would also take any tapwater rinse and follow it with a distilled water rinse. There have been films described as just better ( aerocolor ) negative and I think it was entirely a matter of detail. For us, who can hardly pay the bills, I think keeping the 6 processes separate would help. If some of these chemicals were available elsewhere, I'd be quick to avoid larceny. The no 7 process was called photoflo, and it's a do - all chemical rinse, especially liked by motion picture people and do it yourselfers. I wonder if reversal film is excellent for longest lasting color. I had the privilege of watching "home" movies done on the tail end of gun camera magazines ( aerocolor negative ) and older Kodachrome. No digital process can touch direct chemical detail. Look into the No. 85 color daylight filter for blue problems. When solar panels are used, it is clearly understood that low sun angle strongly lowers ultraviolet and blue photo power, thus your color film will also be affected. Altitude above sea level also affects blue. Our atmosphere is an onion skin and just a trip to Denver will throw color blue.
I just recently got into photography with one of the goals being to make photoslides for long term storage. Here is an idea, what if you got a film negative then built a light proof contraption that would press it up against undeveloped film, expose it to light then develop the film. You would convert a photo negative to a positive for a fraction of the price of making a positive with the E6 process? I have no experence with color photography yet but pan 400 film costs 20 cents per exposure inclusing the cost of the chemicals so a positive would cost 40 cents and you can keep the negative.
The 6 bath process is superior. I found 3 bath processes turn out a little muddy... hence the darkness. Tetenal was the same. Bellini E-6 (6 bath kit) is great, but I've had a lot of bottle leakages new in the box with that brand. Jobo and Ilford, Fuji is probably the way to go. I process Super 8 and 16mm Ektachrome E-6 in a rotary machine at home. There are still ZERO Cine film E-6 labs anywhere near me, so I bought my own machine. I cross processed Super 8 VIsion 3 using C-41 with Baking Soda Remjet removal lol and it worked but with a lot of shift.
I loved shooting slide film, but nowadays it's expensive at TheDarkroom lab, My best choice after gave up on getting them developed over there was my two choices, either I hand developed them myself in E-6 or send my film to be developed at Dwayne's Photo, in Parsons, Kansas! Much cheaper to get them developed and mounted here in the U.S. than the expensive Darkroom Lab in San Clemete, CA! Sometimes It can be a hit or miss, when it comes to developing E-6 film
Thank you for this info! Very interesting and helpful. I came across your video looking for a way to make projection image jewelry. I don’t know how it’s made, but somehow a high quality tiny image is projected using something called a projection stone, which I think is a special glass lens. The image / stone width is about 5mm, typically. Do you have any insight on how the image might be created? TIA!
Great video! I suspect the cinestill chemicals are the problem. Iv used tetenal and unicolor kits on 35mm stills. Super 8 and even 100’ rolls of 16mm and all have had great results. Maybe worth trying a different brand
I remember using an E4 kit back in the day and found it to be a bit more exacting and specific, compared to black-and-white film processing. The higher temperature E6 processing kit kept we away from the "modern Ektachrome" films. Later on, I got better at regulating processing temperatures when I tried the Cibachrome slide-to-print process. As for color negative processing, I think I tried out the C-22 process for Kodacolor-X, and the high temperatures of the C-41 also scared me away. I did use a Unicolor kit back then, but I haven't "souped" any film since before the turn of the century.
I used the Unicolor kit at the beginning too and having a color analyzer later on really helped to reduce some printing headaches. Thus, I was so happy to get rid of two decades worth of darkroom stuffs after switched to digital in 2000.
I was doing C-41 negative film with the CineStill CS41 Color Simplified kit...and I wish I started doing it sooner...all I had to do was go into total darkness, break open the film cassette with a bottle opener, wind it onto a developing spiral, and place it in the tank, close the lid, go into the light, get the color developing chemical and put it into an 1100 watt microwave oven for 37 seconds (assume 350 milliliters of liquid) and do 4 second blasts with the microwave oven until you get to 102 degrees Fahrenheit. If you overshoot it, take a sandwich bag and put an ice cube from the freezer in it and place the bag/ice cube combination in the developer and take it out when the temperature is correct. Develop it for 3-1/2 minutes, and add 2% more time for each new roll you develop until you no longer like the finished results. Place the developer back into the bottle, run 3 changes of tap water through the tank, pour in 350 mL or blix solution and do that for 8 minutes. I agitate continuously for the first minute, then for 3 seconds every 30 seconds after that for both baths. Pour the blix solution back into the bottle then run 7 changes of water through the tank, then gawk at your negatives. If you have an SLR camera that can focus closely and a computer hooked to at least a 24 inch HDTV monitor, you can shoot the monitor after inverting the colors of the images you shot digitally...I refer to that technique as "ghetto slides". The image resulting from ghetto slides will have an orange tint but will be in the right colors. If you want to keep the process completely analog, develop the color film in Caffenol for 55 minutes, (Caffenol is 6 teaspoons of instant coffee [can't be decaf], 4 teaspoons of washing soda which is sodium monocarbonate [as opposed to baking soda which is sodium bicarbonate], 1 teaspoon of crushed vitamin C pills, and 3-1/2 teaspoons of table salt [use half as much --1-3/4 teaspoons--if you have iodized salt], dissolved in 350 mL of 74 degree Fahrenheit water. Then dump out the caffenol and run 3 changes of water through the tank, then expose the film to light, then run the color kit, but this time develop the color for 16 minutes as opposed to 3-1/2 minutes, and run the blix for 10 minutes. The image wil end up positive with an orange tint--without needing a computer.
I did not use any outer water bath as a temperature control...just room temperature air, worked this winter as well as the summer even though the kitchen did not have air conditioning.I just used the microwave oven/ bagged ice cube method, and poured it in. I got good results on both negative C-41 and C-41 caffenol color reversal. However you do need to get the time right on the caffenol step, and positive is very finiky with that. Be prepared to ruin a few rolls until you get the first developing time right. Beginners should try color negatives, after a short bout with black and white film. Don't get too comfortable sticking with only black and white negatives...why swim in a goldfish bowl, when you could swim in the ocean? Color is actually pretty easy...color positive is a bit harder.
And I left out the most important thing, when doing color C-41 reversal process...there is no substitute for Caffenol...I tried D-96, Coke Zero, and EcoPro Ascorbic Acid Developer and got completely brown negatives. Caffenol doesn't seem to write the color information, which is what you want to happen if you wish to have a positive image. When you then rinse the film, and expose it to the light, the color developer only writes the color information on the part that's not developed by the Caffenol already.
This has made me look into other E-6 kits and that's good, and I look forward to developing at home but... Where the hell did you get a cine roll of 35mm Ektachrome and more importantly, can I have some?
I'm going to have to go this route eventually. A friend gave me a ton of 120 and 35mm Fuji Velvia 100 that's expired but has been kept cold. I shot a roll of each format and sent it off for developing. The lab sent back the 35mm roll without developing it with a note that said the EPA banned processing it in the U.S. Strangely, they developed the roll of 120, I'm assuming because they weren't able to tell exactly what it was from the outside. Those shots were freakin' glorious, btw. So anyway, if I'm going to use the 35mm I'm either going to have to process the stuff at home or send it to Canada perhaps. That is if it's not banned up your way also. Great video, thanks!
I devolved four rolls over the last 2 days( 3 last night and one today). The first 3 were dark and blue but I was able to get a scan out of them. The one i developed today was much darker and can’t really get a decent scan.
I've had lots of great experience with cinestill's e6 kit and dynamic chrome, and any major issues I came across were definitely my fault 😅 also for some reason, mine came all bundled together - I didn't have to buy each step separately.
i really like your videos thank you . Can u share video about without first developer chemicals technique ( using bw chemicals for first develeoping ) . Also im curious about using bw first develop after that c41 color and blix chemicals .
Do people see much difference when using 3-step E-6 compared to 6-step? Apparently 6-step can give you better saturation. Also isn’t the cinestill kit single use unlike the Tetenal kit? Which btw Tetenal doesn’t exist anymore.
Tried Cinestill D9 and basically ruined 2 rolls of expensive slide film by following instructions - just as your experience. Some shots came out good, warm and with wider dynamic range, but lacking sharpness. I'd expose a stop longer for this kit to see how it performs then. Would try again if slide film didn't cost an arm and a leg.
Yes, same thing happened to me Ivo. Ruined a couple of films and eventually had good results 2 to 3 stops over exposed. Told CineStill about it. This seems so be a rather common issue, too common to not be addressed if you ask me…
Hello, I used the FPP/Unicolor kit. I ordered from FPP and they sent me the Unicolor kit. It worked well. The only problem I had is that I don't shoot enough slide film and therefore the expiration date is reached before exhaustion from number of rolls developed. By the way, has anybody tried the Atlanta Film Company's Euphoric Film stock ? Evidently Kodak has started manufacturing Ektachrome movie film in 35 mm since the HBO series season 2 used Ektachrome during filming.
I’ve had the same disappointing results with the cinestill E6 kit. I’ve tried dynamic chrome, followed all the kit instructions and ended up with dark slides for properly metered shots. Very disappointing and costly.
I had a really good experience with cinestill's monobath but I don't think I'd use it again now that I've invested in hc-110 and Rodinal. as for color developing I had a terrible time with cinestill's c41 2 bath kit. the kit expired so quickly after it was mixed and totally ruined several rolls of portra and pro 400h I had shot on a trip.
Well, I've got no problems with shooting reversal film here in Oz, because right at present it's as rare as hen's teeth. Whenever it does hit the shelves it doesn't last for very long. But, that's the way things are going at present. Might pay to whip out the 4x5 and start doing wet or dry plate pics!!! Maybe a few cyanotypes and some other processes. From what I've heard on the grapevine, even sensors for digital cameras could start to run dry soon enough. Looks like the 2nd hand digital camera market might kick off in a big way if that happens.
After doing some conservative math in the US where I’m from buying a 400ft bulk roll of cinema Ektachrome it comes out to like 72 rolls of 36 exposures so it ends up being $8.05 a roll, but at the initial cost of ~$600 USD It’s still way beyond worth it for me I just hope sometime in my life they’ll bring Kodachrome back, a boy can dream, right?
I have communicated with Cinestill about their E-6 chemicals developing too dark. I believe they are too diluted. I got slightly better results by extending the time for the 1st developer but will not be using it any longer. I like that they are easily available but they need to figure out the correct time and dilution. I do follow someone who uses for all their e-6 but they did extensive testing and are rating their E100 at like iso 25. There’s absolutely no need for that with fresh film and good chemicals.
Film is fun and I try hard not to dwell on the costs. But when I talk with other about the film I shoot and the prices I pay, their reactions. I paid $67 to buy a roll of Adox ColorMission 200 from Germany, have it shipped to me and have is processed and scanned. $67!!!!!! for one roll of film.
The CineStill E6 kits should be a much bigger scandal in the community. At least the DynamicChrome one. 2 different times trying the kit, thinking I'd screwed up the first time, were complete disasters. The film was so opaque you could barely see through it. It took 3 bracketed exposures of each frame with a DSLR to pull anything useable from them. This is after developing BW, C-41, and E-6 with other kits successfully many many times. It's just a complete trash product and I can't believe the instructions haven't been adjusted to compensate for its deficiencies.
@ 6:33 The Tungsten Chrome is NOT specifically for Tungsten film. It's meant to achieve tungsten colour balance at the development stage. So weird of you to miss that making the remark "no one makes [tungsten E6 film] anymore" as if that kit is specifically for Tungsten film and immediately follow it up with "you can also use it on daylight balanced film and get very blue results". Didn't you think while reading those lines that it's exactly the way it was meant to be used? To develop let's say normal Provia 100F shot with Tungsten lights and have proper colour balance instead of yellow looking images? And if you had a roll of Tungsten E6 film it would actually be ruined by Tungsten Chrome kit producing overly cool results because "blue" from the film + "blue" from the dev = too much for any normal albeit very warm light source. Also 5:55 you can buy those as kits, it's just that you have options.
Six bath is NOT "the better way to go". Please stop repeating this nonsense. Commercial labs use six baths because the life of the chemicals vary and some can be replenished while others must be thrown out and started again from fresh. The three bath kits are designed to process a specific number of rolls, after which ALL of the chemicals are tossed. I have processed hundreds of rolls in Tetenal's E6 kit and the results are as good as any professional lab. Also, when you handle film you don't put your grubby fingers all over it!
Was good for a while but you lost me at Fahrenheit. It is so easy to communicate and reach the whole world. Just use metric measurements, with or without the antiquated stuff.
I’m an OG and in the 70s I did 6 bath for GAF slides. Thing I remember was the temperature (duhh). Here we are 45 years later. Found old GAF that’s been frozen for decades. Going to try it with the 3 bath. Got the mixer / heater. Need some thermometers. Let you know
Been 8 months, any news? Would be interested to see.
I actually have had really good results with cinestill’s C41 and mono bath B&W, it’s how I learned developing, and it’s been great, eventually I will move forward to more traditional development, but right now, cinestill for black and white and color is great! The black and white monobath is insanely easy.
I am right there with yuh
Get into caffenol if you wanna dig deep into b&w film & paper dev. I have great results. It's my only b&w dev. Be prepared to experiment and make your own dev times! The Delta recipe is great to start with. And then the stand dev recipe from the caffenol handbook is good to start for stand dev which imo is the best way to push develop w caffenol (be careful about bromide drag! Agitate once in the middle of your cycle)
I use the DF96 Monobath solution when I am doing short strips of 35 mm black and white film with my homemade pinhole camera. Load the strip in the dark, take a picture, put the strip in the developing tank in the dark, microwave the DF96 Monobath for 1 minute and 20 seconds, pour it in, agitate continuously for the first 30 seconds, then for 3 seconds every 30 seconds, dump it back into the bottle after 8 minutes, and take out the film strip and rinse it well. A small strip doesn't put a whole lot of wear on this chemistry and it is reusable for quick and dirty experiments.
I love the enthusiasm for slide film. The first time I shot 120 format I called it 'lickable' when I saw the results :-)
I had the exact same experience with the Cinestill slide kits, won't be using them again. But I've gotten GREAT results with the Tetenal kit.
Recently shot some E6 medium format (in a Fujica GL690), developed it in a tetenal kit, and 6x9 slides just look amazing! Also around the same time used some expired Fuji film (RTPII tungsten balanced) in my large format, and though a bit of a blue cast (remember tungsten balanced) it is also looking great. Probably not going to it all that often (cause expensive) but there is something to slide film that isn't comparable to color negatives
love tetenal it is the best kit we uesd, sadley tetenal dosent make it any more. so we tryed this and its not recomentable. worst E6 pictures we ever got
@@ServalDogStudio good to know
Analog film is yes an expensive film and in some cases, tedious and time consuming. But dammit, there’s nothing for satisfying than having that developed film that you can physically have, rather than on an SD card or USB
I also had the problem of getting dark and or blueish colors using the cinestill kit.
Also i had one roll of velvia processed by a lab and one done by myself using dynamic chrome and it had like much less saturation.
I thought that i had some sort of cross contamination issue, but seeing that you have the same issue makes me confident that it's simply the character of this kit.
Since that i have switch to the tetenal kit and i'm now getting lab-like vibrancy, color and light on my slides
Nice!
I am currently using the cinestil e6 kit with dynamic chrome first developer and it's a lovely kit!
I can't scientifically prove that dynamic chrome has the advantage it claims but my darker slides has a good level of details when I shine light through it.
I have used the tetenal kit in the past when it was affordable but I couldn't get a kit within Sweden for my 12 rolls I shot in 2022 and it's too expensive nowadays!
I am also the agitation stick person as I find it easier than if I would move the whole tank!
C41 film developed in e6 chemistry give you blue toned slides, also as I understand you need to do 2 stop push in order to get a good results.
Keep up the good work!
Thank you for this info first time slide cameraman. I'll try that 2 stop push thanks again.
Thank you so much for making this video on developing Slide Film. I've accidentally purchased "Adox Scala 50" only realizing that it's black and white reversal film. I would love to be able to develop it at home but can't find the kit for this type of film. But after watching this video, it's motivated me into possibly getting more film and shooting maybe three rolls and do a project with it. Also, thank you for always showing when you get mixed results. Most other videos from other people never want to show the mistakes or their mixed results for some weird reason. Great video like always. You and FPP have gotten me back into film photography. Thank you.
You might try this: The 104 degrees is suppose to be throughout the process. It starts cooling, so you are not at temp. They suggest in the instructions to test water and see how much in cools. If it cools 8 degrees from start to the time finish, you set the starting temp at 108 degrees and it will cool to 100. Average 104. Mine were a LITTLE darker, but really beautiful. I believe you need to do the compensating temp thing for the first two steps if I recall.
For E6 film I send everything to AgX Imaging in Michigan, it's a slide film exclusive lab, the results are great and development prices are reasonable.
Great video, thanks for the info. Just like to say that over the pond , here in England, it's not quite as expensive as Canada but still not cheap. However, one thing you didn't touch on is the satisfaction involved in shooting film and developing it yourself. I'm predominantly a digital shooter these days, but really enjoy the analogue experience (despite the cost). Digital may be cheaper (after the initial setup cost) but analogue just makes you slow down and consider the process and art of photography more.
So when I developed the same batch I sent you for the E100D I used the Cinestill Dynamic kit... I got dark results as well. I first chalked it up to my FM3a having it's original 20 year old low batteries, causing the exposure meter to be off. But my roll done in the F6 with proper exposure also came out somewhat dark. I've never been that great with slides but for the last roll I overdeveloped and they were better... even the edge markings were brighter telling me it was the development, I think Cinestill is off with their numbers somewhere. I haven't honed in the process yet but I'll probably send it out rather than trusting my non experimental rolls to a Cinestill kit anymore. I'm glad you were able to get to use the roll at any rate!
Have used the Cinestill kit, but have been using the Tetenal kit which I have found to last WAY longer and is far cheaper. I used the Tetenal kit to dev some Super 8, and it looks awesome projected. Nice video!
I use the Tetenal kit as well ans I can hardly notice any difference to lab development 😁
What do you develop your Super 8 in?
@@goodcrossing a Lomo cine tank, takes 2x 50ft rolls of 8/16mm or super 8
@@dustysprockets1505 thanks for the info!
You mentioned that your roll of Velvia 50 was darker and blue, that would be an issue that Velvia has when shooting in the shade which results in a blue cast on the image. The best way to eliminate that blue cast would be having a warming filter like a 81a-c filter that would help out with eliminating the blue cast on the image. Plus I would recommend using a warming filter in general when using slide film.
I was quite shocked when I developed my Provia 100 in this kit.
The result was very similar to yours (simply dark and seems underdeveloped), I was shaking my head where I made mistake.
I go 2nd iteration, and try to increase time for about 3 minutes from (9->12), results where slightly better.
I have much better results while using Tetenal E6 kit, never let me down.
Yeah, I was the same with the Tetenal kit, but it’s come to my attention they don’t exist anymore. No more Tetenal E-6…..
Do you know if the cinestill kit can be re-used? I’m pretty sure they brand it as single-use annoyingly.
@@therestorationofdrwho1865 No idea, I throw it to closet and never tried again :)
I am really looking forward to shooting some Ektachrome and getting it developed properly. I've scanned a lot of old slides and they look amazing.
Fuji Hunt claims their kit is still available, but I haven't seen it sold anywhere since the last Christmas. Bellini is readily available in Europe, and Jobo has launched their kit recently. Besides Fuji Pro6 in large quantities, these are the 6-bath E6 kits readily available in Europe in fall 2022. I would not suggest using 3-bath kits, as the quality of the slides is not as good as with a 6 bath kit, if developed properly.
very cool! interesting, if nothing else. great video as always! :)
Also, video idea: you often mention how you can't pull film into the light before development, how you need development, etc., and other film basics. maybe a helpful introduction for absolute beginners would be a video going over what film actually is, roughly how it works, both in exposure and development and so on. Just to bring everyone up to speed. I know I would have appreciated that a few years ago.
Thank you. I loved transparency film. Yes exposure matters with transparency film, but that's what set's it apart. For me, the limited dynamic range made it easier to expose for contrast and/or color saturation - like in the cinema. I could do more in camera by knowing the film I had in camera.
Years ago a PC Magazine columnist, John Dvorak, after carrying around two different digital cameras, noted "the film was the camera". It seems he was kind of right. The film and chemical development have been replaced by the raw file from the sensor and software. Before I could change the film in my camera, nowadays it seems like I have to change camera.
Is slide film expensive? Yes. Is it good value? Debatably, no. Will I still keep shooting it? DUCK YES! I've been watching since ya first vid, back when there was less film info on yt. I was just getting started back then and your channel was a big help getting me interested in film and photography in general. I can say for certain will be shooting 35mm until it matches the price of expired fp100c. (rip.. I remember when that stuff was cheap and new ) Your channel is to blame for almost all of my film knowledge, So thanks.
I had the same issues with the Cinestill E-6 Kit (Mine was the dynamic rather than the daylight developer). Good color balance but way too dark. Digitizing involved pumping a ton of light through the film to try to get the image back up to where it was naturally but the shadows are so muddy because the film was just too dense.
Kits producing slides that must be corrected digitally is simply not acceptable. These films are meant to be projected with no editing. So, if a certain kit can't do it, you probably should avoid using it.
That’s a good note on budget at the end. I develop at home for the sake of making the hobby more affordable. Normalizing home developing makes the entire hobby way more accessible for people who may find it cost prohibitive.
Also, 15:43 had me rolling.
Thanks for the video! Quick question please:
Is the first developer diluted 1+1 (50% mixed developer and 50% freshly added water) all warmed at 40 degrees Celsius?
I’m so happy you posted this video! I just bought the Arista E6 kit and have been shooting some Velvia 100 that expired at the end of May. I also have a package of fresh Provia that I will shoot eventually. It’s all so expensive, but I wanted to get to experience it. I’m a huge fan of the Velvia look, so I’m particularly excited to see the results. And man, when you mentioned how far away 2018 seems, I felt it. A fucking eternity is right.
Great video and very nice shots to boot! Keeping the art of slide film very much alive.
I do love slide film also, never shot a roll but I have a couple of thousand Kodachrome slides of my Dads. I will be trying slide film this year, so gorgeously saturated
Glad I came across this video! I’ve developed 4x5 twice with Cinestill E-6 kit and had the same issue compared to using the Arista kit. I’m guessing the development needs to be longer than 6 minutes. It sucks that the images I developed were from a trip I can’t just repeat when I want.
I've actually used the dynamicchrome before with some rather weird results. With expired film, it's honestly the best way I found to develop my ancient 1983 ekta 64T. Meaning, I get like 30% dmax instead of 10% heh. But when I used it with other stocks I realized that even at the suggested dev times film would come out looking like one or even two stops. Velvia was probably the worst regrettably, though when I finally nailed the first dev push necessary to process it correctly it was absolutely gorgeous as per usual. I also noticed that my fresh ekta 100 4x5 sheets came out a bit bluer than my normal unicolor kit I use.
It's weird because I've used their C41 kit when I run out of other stuff since a local shop typically has it in stock and it's fairly cheap, and that one I've done crazy pushes with and had perfectly serviceable results. Maybe it was also because of how new the E6 processing kits were at the time that I used them, I think CS had released them just the month before when I found dynamicchrome and the other chems at a local store. I think I documented a bit of the process with that 64T a while ago, I'd have to look if I took any timing notes.
Long story short, the first black and white dev is rather weak and I would definitely encourage pushing when you can to get a better result. It can get that proper look for the most part, but it does require some calibration and a lot of time extension.
Velvia needs to be pushed about one stop, in reference to "Kodak times", that work for Ektachrome and Provia. That is 7:00 to 7:15 minutes of 1st developer instead of standard 6:00 in 38°C. I´m referring to standard E-6, not Cinestill or Tetenal 3-bath kits.
A few days ago I was debating wether to go with Cinestill or Bellini as my first E-6 chemicals. I went with Bellini. Looking at this video it seems I made the right choice.
UPDATE: Full six-bath E-6 is fucking difficult. Near impossible to get replicable results.
If you don't have a JOBO or a consistent way to develop it just get a three bath Tetenal kit!! Way fewer baths and not nearly as temperature/time sensitive as the six-bath process
Hint for expired film. I recommend that you increase by one or two stops on your camera. Also, you can do 1+ push film development. As for chemicals, they should be left in heated water until you use 'em.
I've used the Fuji kit and it is amazing. Shame they seem to have stopped making it for a while. It's not officially discontinued but you can't buy it. The tetnal kit also great And I have used it as well.
Been loving all the home developing videos! Now, after shooting some ektachrome rolls myself, i'm thinking of giving E6 at home a try! Aweasome content, as always, cheers, Noah!
I just got this kit! and you make a video! same thing happened when I got a bigshot and you made a video a couple days later! Right on time!!
you look like this guy I know
My local (Denver area) price for 35mm E-6 is $14 (USD)
my new E6 film was processed by C-41 and Adox XT3 as first developer
EM-25 film (Ektachrome 160) can be developed in E-6 and I’ve done it a few times
"I FUCKING love slide film, okay?" That made my day lol
I really enjoy your videos, thank you for making them!
Us newbies watch in pain as this video unfolds. If I had six processes, there's no way I would mash any 2 processes together. Yes, distilled water, but I would also take any tapwater rinse and follow it with a distilled water rinse. There have been films described as just better ( aerocolor ) negative and I think it was entirely a matter of detail. For us, who can hardly pay the bills, I think keeping the 6 processes separate would help. If some of these chemicals were available elsewhere, I'd be quick to avoid larceny. The no 7 process was called photoflo, and it's a do - all chemical rinse, especially liked by motion picture people and do it yourselfers. I wonder if reversal film is excellent for longest lasting color. I had the privilege of watching "home" movies done on the tail end of gun camera magazines ( aerocolor negative ) and older Kodachrome. No digital process can touch direct chemical detail. Look into the No. 85 color daylight filter for blue problems. When solar panels are used, it is clearly understood that low sun angle strongly lowers ultraviolet and blue photo power, thus your color film will also be affected. Altitude above sea level also affects blue. Our atmosphere is an onion skin and just a trip to Denver will throw color blue.
I just recently got into photography with one of the goals being to make photoslides for long term storage. Here is an idea, what if you got a film negative then built a light proof contraption that would press it up against undeveloped film, expose it to light then develop the film. You would convert a photo negative to a positive for a fraction of the price of making a positive with the E6 process? I have no experence with color photography yet but pan 400 film costs 20 cents per exposure inclusing the cost of the chemicals so a positive would cost 40 cents and you can keep the negative.
I’ve been trying to figure out why my slides come out so dark and you have the same dark effect. I’m gonna try a different kit next time…
The 6 bath process is superior. I found 3 bath processes turn out a little muddy... hence the darkness. Tetenal was the same. Bellini E-6 (6 bath kit) is great, but I've had a lot of bottle leakages new in the box with that brand. Jobo and Ilford, Fuji is probably the way to go. I process Super 8 and 16mm Ektachrome E-6 in a rotary machine at home. There are still ZERO Cine film E-6 labs anywhere near me, so I bought my own machine. I cross processed Super 8 VIsion 3 using C-41 with Baking Soda Remjet removal lol and it worked but with a lot of shift.
I've been struggling to get good exposure with slide film, but damn does it look good when you get it right
I loved shooting slide film, but nowadays it's expensive at TheDarkroom lab, My best choice after gave up on getting them developed over there was my two choices, either I hand developed them myself in E-6 or send my film to be developed at Dwayne's Photo, in Parsons, Kansas! Much cheaper to get them developed and mounted here in the U.S. than the expensive Darkroom Lab in San Clemete, CA! Sometimes It can be a hit or miss, when it comes to developing E-6 film
Thank you for this info! Very interesting and helpful. I came across your video looking for a way to make projection image jewelry. I don’t know how it’s made, but somehow a high quality tiny image is projected using something called a projection stone, which I think is a special glass lens. The image / stone width is about 5mm, typically. Do you have any insight on how the image might be created? TIA!
Great video!
I suspect the cinestill chemicals are the problem. Iv used tetenal and unicolor kits on 35mm stills. Super 8 and even 100’ rolls of 16mm and all have had great results. Maybe worth trying a different brand
I remember using an E4 kit back in the day and found it to be a bit more exacting and specific, compared to black-and-white film processing. The higher temperature E6 processing kit kept we away from the "modern Ektachrome" films. Later on, I got better at regulating processing temperatures when I tried the Cibachrome slide-to-print process. As for color negative processing, I think I tried out the C-22 process for Kodacolor-X, and the high temperatures of the C-41 also scared me away. I did use a Unicolor kit back then, but I haven't "souped" any film since before the turn of the century.
I used the Unicolor kit at the beginning too and having a color analyzer later on really helped to reduce some printing headaches. Thus, I was so happy to get rid of two decades worth of darkroom stuffs after switched to digital in 2000.
I was doing C-41 negative film with the CineStill CS41 Color Simplified kit...and I wish I started doing it sooner...all I had to do was go into total darkness, break open the film cassette with a bottle opener, wind it onto a developing spiral, and place it in the tank, close the lid, go into the light, get the color developing chemical and put it into an 1100 watt microwave oven for 37 seconds (assume 350 milliliters of liquid) and do 4 second blasts with the microwave oven until you get to 102 degrees Fahrenheit. If you overshoot it, take a sandwich bag and put an ice cube from the freezer in it and place the bag/ice cube combination in the developer and take it out when the temperature is correct. Develop it for 3-1/2 minutes, and add 2% more time for each new roll you develop until you no longer like the finished results. Place the developer back into the bottle, run 3 changes of tap water through the tank, pour in 350 mL or blix solution and do that for 8 minutes. I agitate continuously for the first minute, then for 3 seconds every 30 seconds after that for both baths. Pour the blix solution back into the bottle then run 7 changes of water through the tank, then gawk at your negatives. If you have an SLR camera that can focus closely and a computer hooked to at least a 24 inch HDTV monitor, you can shoot the monitor after inverting the colors of the images you shot digitally...I refer to that technique as "ghetto slides". The image resulting from ghetto slides will have an orange tint but will be in the right colors. If you want to keep the process completely analog, develop the color film in Caffenol for 55 minutes, (Caffenol is 6 teaspoons of instant coffee [can't be decaf], 4 teaspoons of washing soda which is sodium monocarbonate [as opposed to baking soda which is sodium bicarbonate], 1 teaspoon of crushed vitamin C pills, and 3-1/2 teaspoons of table salt [use half as much --1-3/4 teaspoons--if you have iodized salt], dissolved in 350 mL of 74 degree Fahrenheit water. Then dump out the caffenol and run 3 changes of water through the tank, then expose the film to light, then run the color kit, but this time develop the color for 16 minutes as opposed to 3-1/2 minutes, and run the blix for 10 minutes. The image wil end up positive with an orange tint--without needing a computer.
I did not use any outer water bath as a temperature control...just room temperature air, worked this winter as well as the summer even though the kitchen did not have air conditioning.I just used the microwave oven/ bagged ice cube method, and poured it in. I got good results on both negative C-41 and C-41 caffenol color reversal. However you do need to get the time right on the caffenol step, and positive is very finiky with that. Be prepared to ruin a few rolls until you get the first developing time right. Beginners should try color negatives, after a short bout with black and white film. Don't get too comfortable sticking with only black and white negatives...why swim in a goldfish bowl, when you could swim in the ocean? Color is actually pretty easy...color positive is a bit harder.
And I left out the most important thing, when doing color C-41 reversal process...there is no substitute for Caffenol...I tried D-96, Coke Zero, and EcoPro Ascorbic Acid Developer and got completely brown negatives. Caffenol doesn't seem to write the color information, which is what you want to happen if you wish to have a positive image. When you then rinse the film, and expose it to the light, the color developer only writes the color information on the part that's not developed by the Caffenol already.
This has made me look into other E-6 kits and that's good, and I look forward to developing at home but... Where the hell did you get a cine roll of 35mm Ektachrome and more importantly, can I have some?
I'm going to have to go this route eventually. A friend gave me a ton of 120 and 35mm Fuji Velvia 100 that's expired but has been kept cold. I shot a roll of each format and sent it off for developing. The lab sent back the 35mm roll without developing it with a note that said the EPA banned processing it in the U.S. Strangely, they developed the roll of 120, I'm assuming because they weren't able to tell exactly what it was from the outside. Those shots were freakin' glorious, btw. So anyway, if I'm going to use the 35mm I'm either going to have to process the stuff at home or send it to Canada perhaps. That is if it's not banned up your way also. Great video, thanks!
Zbog čega je zabranjena obrada 35mm?
I have had very good luck with the unicolor kit. Even with expired film.
I devolved four rolls over the last 2 days( 3 last night and one today).
The first 3 were dark and blue but I was able to get a scan out of them.
The one i developed today was much darker and can’t really get a decent scan.
I've had lots of great experience with cinestill's e6 kit and dynamic chrome, and any major issues I came across were definitely my fault 😅 also for some reason, mine came all bundled together - I didn't have to buy each step separately.
i really like your videos thank you . Can u share video about without first developer chemicals technique ( using bw chemicals for first develeoping ) . Also im curious about using bw first develop after that c41 color and blix chemicals .
B&h sells 1000s packs of the sealing slide mounts. I haven't used them but they seem cheap and numerous
Do people see much difference when using 3-step E-6 compared to 6-step? Apparently 6-step can give you better saturation.
Also isn’t the cinestill kit single use unlike the Tetenal kit? Which btw Tetenal doesn’t exist anymore.
Tried Cinestill D9 and basically ruined 2 rolls of expensive slide film by following instructions - just as your experience. Some shots came out good, warm and with wider dynamic range, but lacking sharpness. I'd expose a stop longer for this kit to see how it performs then. Would try again if slide film didn't cost an arm and a leg.
Yes, same thing happened to me Ivo. Ruined a couple of films and eventually had good results 2 to 3 stops over exposed. Told CineStill about it. This seems so be a rather common issue, too common to not be addressed if you ask me…
can you do a roll review on Flic film's Elektra 100 (respooled Kodak Aerocolor IV)?
Question, isn't the developer a a one shot 1+1, I see you poured it back and mentioned 'future use'? Thanks!
I think, that slides should have some blu tint since they are designed to be projected with a tungsten light.
Hello, I used the FPP/Unicolor kit. I ordered from FPP and they sent me the Unicolor kit. It worked well. The only problem I had is that I don't shoot enough slide film and therefore the expiration date is reached before exhaustion from number of rolls developed.
By the way, has anybody tried the Atlanta Film Company's Euphoric Film stock ? Evidently Kodak has started manufacturing Ektachrome movie film in 35 mm since the HBO series season 2 used Ektachrome during filming.
I’ve had the same disappointing results with the cinestill E6 kit. I’ve tried dynamic chrome, followed all the kit instructions and ended up with dark slides for properly metered shots. Very disappointing and costly.
i swear to god this is the first time ive heard you swear in a video
Would anyone happen to know where I can buy slides for 645 negatives? Thanks!
Where do you recommend buying slide mounts
fuck yea i love slide film too
I had a really good experience with cinestill's monobath but I don't think I'd use it again now that I've invested in hc-110 and Rodinal. as for color developing I had a terrible time with cinestill's c41 2 bath kit. the kit expired so quickly after it was mixed and totally ruined several rolls of portra and pro 400h I had shot on a trip.
Damn, I have found a b&w monobath really helpful in getting started with developing and I totally understand where your coming from
Well, I've got no problems with shooting reversal film here in Oz, because right at present it's as rare as hen's teeth. Whenever it does hit the shelves it doesn't last for very long. But, that's the way things are going at present. Might pay to whip out the 4x5 and start doing wet or dry plate pics!!! Maybe a few cyanotypes and some other processes. From what I've heard on the grapevine, even sensors for digital cameras could start to run dry soon enough. Looks like the 2nd hand digital camera market might kick off in a big way if that happens.
How do you scan slides or negatives ?
After doing some conservative math in the US where I’m from buying a 400ft bulk roll of cinema Ektachrome it comes out to like 72 rolls of 36 exposures so it ends up being $8.05 a roll, but at the initial cost of ~$600 USD
It’s still way beyond worth it for me I just hope sometime in my life they’ll bring Kodachrome back, a boy can dream, right?
You can cross process XP2 if you want monochrome slides
Nice👌
What was the cooker mentioned? Sumi cooker?
Sous vide cooker!
Watching this now because of Ilfocolor 100 reversal film lol
I have communicated with Cinestill about their E-6 chemicals developing too dark. I believe they are too diluted. I got slightly better results by extending the time for the 1st developer but will not be using it any longer. I like that they are easily available but they need to figure out the correct time and dilution. I do follow someone who uses for all their e-6 but they did extensive testing and are rating their E100 at like iso 25. There’s absolutely no need for that with fresh film and good chemicals.
I just wonder, have they made this kit for people using well (10 years or so) expired film. You wouldn´t use this kit with fresh Velvia.
How much ventilation is needed for this process?
I'd worry more about the river/lake those chemicals are going into. The solution shouldn't be all that harmful
I had problems with this
Film is fun and I try hard not to dwell on the costs. But when I talk with other about the film I shoot and the prices I pay, their reactions. I paid $67 to buy a roll of Adox ColorMission 200 from Germany, have it shipped to me and have is processed and scanned. $67!!!!!! for one roll of film.
The CineStill E6 kits should be a much bigger scandal in the community. At least the DynamicChrome one. 2 different times trying the kit, thinking I'd screwed up the first time, were complete disasters. The film was so opaque you could barely see through it. It took 3 bracketed exposures of each frame with a DSLR to pull anything useable from them. This is after developing BW, C-41, and E-6 with other kits successfully many many times. It's just a complete trash product and I can't believe the instructions haven't been adjusted to compensate for its deficiencies.
hmm, I wonder how Noah feels about cinestill
@ 6:33 The Tungsten Chrome is NOT specifically for Tungsten film. It's meant to achieve tungsten colour balance at the development stage. So weird of you to miss that making the remark "no one makes [tungsten E6 film] anymore" as if that kit is specifically for Tungsten film and immediately follow it up with "you can also use it on daylight balanced film and get very blue results". Didn't you think while reading those lines that it's exactly the way it was meant to be used? To develop let's say normal Provia 100F shot with Tungsten lights and have proper colour balance instead of yellow looking images? And if you had a roll of Tungsten E6 film it would actually be ruined by Tungsten Chrome kit producing overly cool results because "blue" from the film + "blue" from the dev = too much for any normal albeit very warm light source.
Also 5:55 you can buy those as kits, it's just that you have options.
You seem like you really didn't wanna make this video 😅
Hope all is okay!
??
Six bath is NOT "the better way to go". Please stop repeating this nonsense. Commercial labs use six baths because the life of the chemicals vary and some can be replenished while others must be thrown out and started again from fresh. The three bath kits are designed to process a specific number of rolls, after which ALL of the chemicals are tossed. I have processed hundreds of rolls in Tetenal's E6 kit and the results are as good as any professional lab.
Also, when you handle film you don't put your grubby fingers all over it!
Was good for a while but you lost me at Fahrenheit. It is so easy to communicate and reach the whole world. Just use metric measurements, with or without the antiquated stuff.
what the fuck is a kilometer
Bro get over it. This guys largest audience portion is American
I still remember the days when I could get a bulk roll of Delta 400 for US70 🥲 Now is well over 100