been using some old craftsman wrenches for over 40 years. they were american made an held up to commercial use. the sockets were so so but their wrenches are legendary in terms of strength and durrability. much like the maytag washer was
I bought my first Craftsmen kit in college when I couldn't afford it, but I still have and use it all. Sadly, I've purchased Craftsman tools since then, and all the new stuff is just garbage. As a weekend mechanic, I don't usually buy the expensive stuff. I've found the ICON is better than Craftsman now and cheaper.
Would this going bad cause my oil pressure to randomly jump from 40 or so psi to about 70? It happens mostly when its cold at around 1500 RPM sometimes immediately when tou crank it and its idling. Its not a gradual jump either like you see with normal acceleration. It's sudden and goes back to normal within about 1/2 a second. I've replaced the oil pressure sensor with a new GM sensor and it still does it. No cel so im not too concerned but I'd like to know what's happening. Thanks!
Great video! It's exactly what I needed! It got me 98% there. The only difference in my car is that I have a 2WD, and I had to drop the steering rack to get the pan out. Thank you very, very, very much for taking the to document the process! In the part of your video where you read about keeping the old oil pump or replacing it with a new one, what site are you using?
Thank you very much! A 2WD is a little bit easier to do luckily. I was using GM dealer service information. You can access the same information with a subscription and also there are other places such as AllData DIY, etc. Even some of the parts stores are offering online repair information for free online if you seek it out.
Is there a way I can replace? The sticker on the side of my frame. It was starting to peel off so I kept it. It has the part number for the frame. And years a manufacturing of the frame. I want to see if I can get a new copy of it
Maybe, I'm not sure if you can get a reproduction sticker anymore. I know the stickers are all in the parts catalog if you ask your local parts person.
How do you test the resistance at the harness? Just wondering if there’s a way too see if it’s the harness or the solinoid. I already had new oil pump put in it 8 months ago and just got same code back p06da
When I diagnosed this vehicle I tested resistance at the harness connector next to the crank pulley and it had over 1K ohms. You won’t have access to test whether it’s a faulty harness or a faulty oil pump without removing the oil pan and disconnecting the harness from the oil pump solenoid. The oil pan would have to be removed and then test the solenoid by itself, if you get a normal reading at the solenoid then you know it’s probably the wiring harness and you’ll need to test the harness. 15:10 - oil pump solenoid view after oil pan removal 34:39 - testing the old oil pump and harness, faulty reading 1:02:57 - oil pump solenoid resistance test new in box Thanks. Feel free to ask any further questions.
Nope it didn’t need the chain at that time. It’s not too bad to replace it though. Only a few more steps. Pretty much all you do is remove the cam gear bolt and the tensioner and it comes right off. Thanks.
Right on. Thank you. It’s nice to see someone use all the right tools. You should do a video of the cam and lifter job on this engine. I had issue getting crank bolt out. I missed the part where you use heat since it’s early in the video. I will try heat tomorrow. Also need to see how if can rent that tool to hold pulley. Maybe eBay. Then sell it when I’m done. Thanks for posting the video. Helped me out.
@SlaneVintageModern I just did a lifter job a few days and filmed the whole disassembly, but I gave up filming the reassembly because it’s distracting and time consuming so maybe next time.
Haha. Yea I bet it’s tough. I want to make videos of stuff all the time. But it’s too much work. I forgot to ask. Do you heat bolt up and remove as it’s still hot? Or do you wait a bit for it to cool. Some say to heat it up and spray with PB blaster so the heat draws the Blaster into the thread locker helping to dissolve it and cold it down at same time. Some say you will break bolt if removed when hot but I suspect that’s if you heat the hell out of it, just getting it warm enough to break down thread locker like you did, would be ok to remove while hot.
@SlaneVintageModern if you heat the bolt glowing red hot it will definitely break. Remove it while it’s still warm and the thread locker will be softened. The thread locker is primarily on the head of the bolt and not the threads…. Probably to act as a sealant. I don’t usually use any lubricants when removing it.
What is the part number for the wire harness inside of front cover, I'm working on a 2014 4.3 I thought it's the same as the 5.3 but doesn't seem to cross over on parts tech
Have you ever replaced a dashboard on a 2008 silverbro? I mind I need a new one. I have the LTZ1, so the Tahoe 1 is hard to do. And do I have to remove the steering calm
My 2008 Silverado I add a factory navigation. I found online, there's a hidden menu. Diagnostic menu You go to a certain menu and you press the very wet bottom of the screen. And you put in a certain code. And you can change your clock if it stops working all the time. My question is, why do GM radius have a diagnostic mode? What do dealership use on for?
Yes there is a hidden menu. The only thing I have ever used it for is to reset the clock. Then at some point they removed the hidden menu and you couldn't update the clock at all. Some of those customers had to drive around for a week waiting for it to update. Some of them you could tap on the clock and update it manually. Thanks.
Hi,loved the video,i have to do mine in the next couple of days.do you have the part number for the oil pump silonoid, no one in my area can find a listing for it.thank you
There's a shore on South main auto-repair East sihe says the 2023 tahoes and suburbans Evap system a store filter. It's right behind the tire and the customer hasn't replaced the hole entire system that cost $800.
If youre doing this at home you can remove a spark plug and fill the cylinder with rope. It will prevent the engine from turning while you torque the bolt
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist After I posted that comment I realized how much force that is going over 100 degrees. The rope has some give but still. I think the best bet for someone who doesn't have the special tool is half an ugga and then use a paint marker to measure the amount of degrees like you did. One could also use loctite if they're concerned about the bolt backing out. I know it's not recommended but I've done similar things in the past with no issues
@@firstlast--- I understand… I have been there and done that kind of thing also. Working on cars for a living every day. I have also seen the consequences of that sometimes… Not always worth the risk when the tool is cheaper than an engine in my experience.
Not much other than a check engine light. The oil pump is a dual stage and can be changed from high pressure mode to low pressure mode, but you’ll still have oil pressure. You still should get it fixed. Thanks.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist yeah but I get shops are starving for money so always have to drain the customers pockets and add as much labor to keep themselves busy
@clutchin7017 I don’t know… I didn’t build it that way. There is obviously a reason they put a dual stage oil pump in there… To save a minor amount of fuel. And that’s the way the customer bought it. It doesn’t bother me.
I had no idea this terrible oil pump design wasn't limited to dodge/chrysler. I'm going to just replace the solenoid in our dodge charger and thank god i can get to it by just removing the small steel oil pan, nothing else. I am going to be more picky with my wifes next car. i don't want any gimmicky crap like this to save a fraction of a gallon of gas. Stupid government cars.
Yes, that is somewhat common on the Dodge… I have successfully repaired several of them with just the solenoid. That’s right… This is all just a measure to save pennies worth of gas. The manufacturers have to do this to meet emissions standards, and still be able to sell vehicles. Thank you for commenting.
The alignment of the pump the way you did it make perfect sense. Thanks
I’m glad you found it helpful!
been using some old craftsman wrenches for over 40 years. they were american made an held up to commercial use. the sockets were so so but their wrenches are legendary in terms of strength and durrability. much like the maytag washer was
Yep a lot of my stuff is craftsman back when it was still made in USA. The new stuff is definitely not the same.
Thank you for watching!
I bought my first Craftsmen kit in college when I couldn't afford it, but I still have and use it all. Sadly, I've purchased Craftsman tools since then, and all the new stuff is just garbage. As a weekend mechanic, I don't usually buy the expensive stuff. I've found the ICON is better than Craftsman now and cheaper.
@mijohnst i’ve been afraid to warranty any of my craftsman stuff because the replacement will be about half the weight and total garbage.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist And you're right! They are big and clunky.
Would this going bad cause my oil pressure to randomly jump from 40 or so psi to about 70? It happens mostly when its cold at around 1500 RPM sometimes immediately when tou crank it and its idling. Its not a gradual jump either like you see with normal acceleration. It's sudden and goes back to normal within about 1/2 a second. I've replaced the oil pressure sensor with a new GM sensor and it still does it. No cel so im not too concerned but I'd like to know what's happening. Thanks!
Maybe, but usually if there is something wrong with the dual stage oil pump there will be fault codes.
Thanks.
Great video! It's exactly what I needed! It got me 98% there. The only difference in my car is that I have a 2WD, and I had to drop the steering rack to get the pan out. Thank you very, very, very much for taking the to document the process!
In the part of your video where you read about keeping the old oil pump or replacing it with a new one, what site are you using?
Thank you very much! A 2WD is a little bit easier to do luckily.
I was using GM dealer service information. You can access the same information with a subscription and also there are other places such as AllData DIY, etc.
Even some of the parts stores are offering online repair information for free online if you seek it out.
Is there a way I can replace? The sticker on the side of my frame. It was starting to peel off so I kept it. It has the part number for the frame. And years a manufacturing of the frame. I want to see if I can get a new copy of it
Maybe, I'm not sure if you can get a reproduction sticker anymore. I know the stickers are all in the parts catalog if you ask your local parts person.
Can I do this job over a pit without pulling the wheels? Thanks friend
Yes
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist TY for the reply!
@MrSaddie123 you are welcome
How do you test the resistance at the harness? Just wondering if there’s a way too see if it’s the harness or the solinoid. I already had new oil pump put in it 8 months ago and just got same code back p06da
When I diagnosed this vehicle I tested resistance at the harness connector next to the crank pulley and it had over 1K ohms.
You won’t have access to test whether it’s a faulty harness or a faulty oil pump without removing the oil pan and disconnecting the harness from the oil pump solenoid.
The oil pan would have to be removed and then test the solenoid by itself, if you get a normal reading at the solenoid then you know it’s probably the wiring harness and you’ll need to test the harness.
15:10 - oil pump solenoid view after oil pan removal
34:39 - testing the old oil pump and harness, faulty reading
1:02:57 - oil pump solenoid resistance test new in box
Thanks. Feel free to ask any further questions.
Thanks I just pulled the plug and it’s got oil inside connector
@@IM4UCKEDUP you’ll have to remove everything and replace both sides of the harness then.
Bummer, I wish you would have done the timing chain too. I have to do the cam and stupid lifters.
Was that truck not ready for a chain?
Nope it didn’t need the chain at that time.
It’s not too bad to replace it though. Only a few more steps. Pretty much all you do is remove the cam gear bolt and the tensioner and it comes right off.
Thanks.
Right on. Thank you. It’s nice to see someone use all the right tools. You should do a video of the cam and lifter job on this engine.
I had issue getting crank bolt out. I missed the part where you use heat since it’s early in the video. I will try heat tomorrow. Also need to see how if can rent that tool to hold pulley. Maybe eBay. Then sell it when I’m done.
Thanks for posting the video. Helped me out.
@SlaneVintageModern I just did a lifter job a few days and filmed the whole disassembly, but I gave up filming the reassembly because it’s distracting and time consuming so maybe next time.
Haha. Yea I bet it’s tough. I want to make videos of stuff all the time. But it’s too much work. I forgot to ask. Do you heat bolt up and remove as it’s still hot? Or do you wait a bit for it to cool. Some say to heat it up and spray with PB blaster so the heat draws the Blaster into the thread locker helping to dissolve it and cold it down at same time. Some say you will break bolt if removed when hot but I suspect that’s if you heat the hell out of it, just getting it warm enough to break down thread locker like you did, would be ok to remove while hot.
@SlaneVintageModern if you heat the bolt glowing red hot it will definitely break.
Remove it while it’s still warm and the thread locker will be softened. The thread locker is primarily on the head of the bolt and not the threads…. Probably to act as a sealant.
I don’t usually use any lubricants when removing it.
What is the part number for the wire harness inside of front cover, I'm working on a 2014 4.3 I thought it's the same as the 5.3 but doesn't seem to cross over on parts tech
I don’t have the part number unfortunately. You might find it somewhere in the comment section.
Thanks.
Have you ever replaced a dashboard on a 2008 silverbro? I mind I need a new one. I have the LTZ1, so the Tahoe 1 is hard to do. And do I have to remove the steering calm
Yes, if you are replacing it, you should just remove the steering column. It’s not too difficult on those ones.
Thanks.
Do you have to remove the stirring lunch? The one that's in the engine bag. It connects to the steering cold.
@@danielb-c9100 no you do not need to disconnect the linkage under the hood
My 2008 Silverado I add a factory navigation. I found online, there's a hidden menu. Diagnostic menu You go to a certain menu and you press the very wet bottom of the screen. And you put in a certain code. And you can change your clock if it stops working all the time. My question is, why do GM radius have a diagnostic mode? What do dealership use on for?
Yes there is a hidden menu. The only thing I have ever used it for is to reset the clock. Then at some point they removed the hidden menu and you couldn't update the clock at all. Some of those customers had to drive around for a week waiting for it to update.
Some of them you could tap on the clock and update it manually.
Thanks.
I think the 2021 have a head and menu.
@@danielb-c9100 yes some of them have extra menus. They aren’t really hidden though.
Great video what yes is theirs 5.3
2018 5.3L
Thanks!
Hi,loved the video,i have to do mine in the next couple of days.do you have the part number for the oil pump silonoid, no one in my area can find a listing for it.thank you
Thank you very much for watching.
The solenoid is only available with the entire oil pump.
I'm sorry I ment the wiring harness for the oil pump silonoid
@@lukehoenig203 Part number 12681015 and 12712016
Thank you so much
@@lukehoenig203 you are welcome. Feel free to ask additional questions if needed. Thanks.
My favorite door chime. 2003 three, the 2020. I do not like the New ones, though.
Probably my favorite out of the GM bunch too. Thanks again.
I have a question, but it's probably pretty tough with you. do you know what type of pen GM radios used in 2005 to 2013.
I don’t know. Sorry.
There's a shore on South main auto-repair East sihe says the 2023 tahoes and suburbans Evap system a store filter. It's right behind the tire and the customer hasn't replaced the hole entire system that cost $800.
When's your next video
@@danielb-c9100 I have been really busy… I have probably five or six videos ready for editing.
Allison TCM video dropping later today 🤫.
@@danielb-c9100 send me the link I will check it out
I suppose this job is a lot easier if vehicles not equipped with four-wheel-drive?
Yes, it is easier by far on a 2 Wheel Drive vehicle.
Thanks.
Where are you located ? I’d love to hire you to do exact job on my 2015 GMC Yukon 2WD
I’m not taking appointments at the moment.
Thanks.
If youre doing this at home you can remove a spark plug and fill the cylinder with rope. It will prevent the engine from turning while you torque the bolt
I wouldn't do that because you can crush a bearing or damage a piston/rod. That bolt is really super tight lol. Thank you.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist After I posted that comment I realized how much force that is going over 100 degrees. The rope has some give but still. I think the best bet for someone who doesn't have the special tool is half an ugga and then use a paint marker to measure the amount of degrees like you did. One could also use loctite if they're concerned about the bolt backing out. I know it's not recommended but I've done similar things in the past with no issues
@@firstlast--- I understand… I have been there and done that kind of thing also. Working on cars for a living every day. I have also seen the consequences of that sometimes… Not always worth the risk when the tool is cheaper than an engine in my experience.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist That would be a nightmare to be almost finished with that job just to break the bolt off in the crankshaft 😂
@@firstlast--- yes, every job is one broken bolt away from tragedy
Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching!
Have this issue but my Silverado is a hybrid.
Hopefully you get it solved.
Thanks.
What happens if I drive my truck with P06DA code
Not much other than a check engine light. The oil pump is a dual stage and can be changed from high pressure mode to low pressure mode, but you’ll still have oil pressure. You still should get it fixed.
Thanks.
Thank you from Ontario ca
Crazy how I saved my customers thousands by tuning off the pump solenoid off instead of doing all this useless work💀🤣
Lol that’s ones way to do it.
Thanks.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist yeah but I get shops are starving for money so always have to drain the customers pockets and add as much labor to keep themselves busy
@clutchin7017 I don’t know… I didn’t build it that way.
There is obviously a reason they put a dual stage oil pump in there… To save a minor amount of fuel. And that’s the way the customer bought it.
It doesn’t bother me.
In what state are you located ?
@@Dorightby Texas
I had no idea this terrible oil pump design wasn't limited to dodge/chrysler. I'm going to just replace the solenoid in our dodge charger and thank god i can get to it by just removing the small steel oil pan, nothing else. I am going to be more picky with my wifes next car. i don't want any gimmicky crap like this to save a fraction of a gallon of gas. Stupid government cars.
Yes, that is somewhat common on the Dodge… I have successfully repaired several of them with just the solenoid.
That’s right… This is all just a measure to save pennies worth of gas. The manufacturers have to do this to meet emissions standards, and still be able to sell vehicles.
Thank you for commenting.
Do you have a facebook page
Yes and No.
I made a Facebook page, but I don’t really do anything with it because I’m so busy.
Thanks.