Dec 24th, 2024... I have today and tomorrow off from work. Tackling this job as a Christmas gift. I can not thank you enough for this detailed, how too!
This is the actual fix .. if your code always comes back even after you replaced the oil with correct oil and filter replaced the oil pressure switch and especially if you had a failed ocs (vvt solenoid)that may have even broken then for sure this is your only fix unfortunately the amount of work involved but I’m sure many of us watching this is mechanically inclined and this is a helpful motion picture service guide as I call them! Bosses can say what ever they want about RUclips but when there is a video showing you an experienced technician perform a procedure that you can follow and see and get pro tips on the way then why the heck not!! Sucks the oil pan is shitty to remove but it is what it is!
Yes I agree. Use all the information available to you. The old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words " needs to be updated... A video is worth a thousand pictures...thanks for the feedback!
This it’s the best video I see in RUclips explaining super clear nothing confuse it’s perfect thanks boss to explain us and let know us you work thanks bro very helpful
Had this code on my 2015 Sierra 5.3 . Had 3 oil pumps replaced under warranty within 4.5 months . I talked to the service manager and asked if there is an updated part to stop this from happening . He said no . So this will continue to happen .... I traded the truck off the next day for a truely to reliable truck .... Tundra !
My dad literally just bought a sierra with like only 60,000 k and he changed the oil sensor and its still reading no oil pressure like the pos chevy it is . They're complete pos trucks now thier engineers need firing
i have a good doner engine coming for daughters 2012 suburban. your incredibly thorough video will be a big boost to my confidence in regards to freshening up the engine before i swap out oil related failed 5.3 thank you. on a side note hers is a 5.3LT and i can't find info on which oil pump it will have, so i'm armed and ready for either now
This code has come and been cleared by me for at least a 1000 times the last 50k miles. All good so far 2014 Silverado 5.3 170k miles. Don't replace just ignore. Unless of course your oil pressure goes to zero!
Trade it in I have a 2014 within 70k they issued a full engine replacement under warranty have been waiting 10 months for a engine they say were top of the list for replacement but that’s gotta be a lie
I’ve done these. If you’ll get a oil primer, which you really need for doing engine replacement or repair on the newer engines, you could prime the entire oil system while filling the engine with oil.
So I'm savvy, AF, a few LS swaps under my belt and tons of LS/Lt vehicle maintenance over the years.....thanks for this video, I'm pissed, not at you, at GM 🙄
Thanks for the video! It took me 12 hours from driving on the lift to engine start up. I did the timing set while in there but it looked good for 170k miles, the chain didn’t seem worn compared to the new one, but glad I replaced it. I struggled with the differential install, get some help if you can! For oil priming I pulled the fuses for injectors and ignition. Thanks again!
Next time for priming all you have to do is press the pedal to the floor and crank the engine. That enters "clear flooding" mode and turns off the injectors. Try it.
This is a 12.7 hour job per the book. If you charge standard rate, around $95 an hour, then it will be 95x13.7 = $1206.5 + shop supplies, parts and taxes.
In 2014 after a night of heavy drinking I went to the chevy house and bought 3 2014 Silverados with the V-6 engine. Except for a glass of wine at Christmas I haven't had a drink since. But, l have been paying for that every year since in repair bills on premature wear and/or issues that were mentioned in numerous TSBs from GM.....the biggest and most frequent expense with these 3 trucks are cracked exhaust manifolds...again and again...
Professional work reflected from experience. Thank you for this video. I have a problem with oil pressure, sometimes normal and sometimes as low as 70 when idle. Do changing the oil pressure sensor and PVC valve think that it solves the problem? Because if not and changing oil pump is a must then it is out of mu hand. My garage is not equipped with a crane, so the only way is to work on the ground with the car being raised some inches higher.
Just finished it up worked out great I had metal chunks in the pick up tube from the pump internals so I cleaned everything out good but I think this job can be done without removing the pan but then you can't clean any metal or debrise in the pan
GREAT detailed video. I just ordered all my parts (listed at 16:00) from gmpartsdirect for $175 USD with shipping. When you say the water pump is separate from the housing, does it mean it can stay? or still have to drain coolant and all to get the timing cover off still?
That code sets due to an open or shorted oil pressure control solenoid or circuit. There is a bulletin about the wiring harness rubbing on the vacuum pump pulley so I'd check that first. # PIT5307F
Hey just did this everything turned out pretty good thank you! The only issue I had was the crank bolt specs. Followed instructions and when tried to turn bolt to the 200 degrees part couldn't. Maybe got 90 degrees at most and that was cranking with a big breaker bar. Big guy on a big breaker and it wasn't going. Think that's ok?
Yes its ridiculously tight. I was using a 4 foot 1/2" Snapon power bar. It will likely be ok if you used locktight. Maybe a piece of pipe on the power bar. I marked the bolts location on the balancer where I started and where 200 degrees was approximately 180 plus another 20.
@@PhillipBailey that's awesome thanks maybe I'll have another go at it. or does that red stuff that's on the head of the new bolt count as loctite? I didn't use anything on the threads
Hey Thanks, Phillip! I have a feeling I am going to spend a lot of time watching and re-watching this video. I just bought a 2014 5.3L from the North-West Territorites Government... as is-where is silent auctin....It has been sitting for over a year. When I start it up it has good oil pressure until oil temperature nears 80C then It starts dropping off to I would guess below 10PSI as the low pressure shut down message comes up. It has oil pressure again once you apply power.accelerate etc and It does have the P06dd code and P0521. Do you think it is worth putting in fresh oil and filter and seeing if that solves it? or is that an oil pump for sure?
Sorry I just saw this comment. It can't hurt to try an oil change for what that's worth but unless the oil is contaminated with fuel and super thin I doubt it will help. Good luck.
Hey no sorry needed! Thanks for responding! I’ve been watching some of your other videos, they are so good, it’s been super helpful, I feel like I’ve learned a lot from them. You would be my mechanic for sure if I lived near you. I thought I had a bad ground on it too as it stopped trying to crank yesterday just a day after I got it but it was just a frozen starter in the end... gotta love sub arctic living. Anyways thanks again!
@@scotttrowell2783 It is in the front now so more accessible. Id probably confirm the oil pressure with a mechanical gage first if you can rig up fittings.
@@PhillipBailey Hey Phillip! where would you recommend I get or download the service/repair manual for this job that you have been referencing? Thanks again,
You should put the harmonic balancer on before you tighten the cover all the way down if you do it that way it centers the seal on the harmonic balancer
Yes you are correct since there are no dowel pins between the cover and block to ensure the seal is centered but I felt that since each one of the cover bolts has that small insert on it that it would not make much difference. Additionally the service procedure doesn't mention doing this either. I know it was important on some engines though.
Awesome video. I get p06dd silinolid stuck off too however my oil pressure is up at 60PSI. I see most saying they get low oil pressure? The shop I bought my truck from used is willing to eat the cost of repairs (i insisted to meet them halfway on labor and buy parts anyways) Any clue if that would still be a pump issue? Or is high oil preasure a major issue? I just don't want them to spend a butload of their time chasing the wrong thing.
Top notch video Dealer found brass shavings in my oil pan the other day. :) Went in for a PO6DD code, oil pump solenoid fault. My dash oil pressure is around 20 at idle and bout 35 - 40 driving. Still normal. What to do!
@@PhillipBailey "hot idle is 17 psi, cycling oil pump control valve with GDS will not cause changes in oil pump response, raised vehicle lowered oil pan, tech notes large amount of brass colored bearing material in oil pan, cam and/or crankshaft bearing wear is suspected. Engine replacement is recommended."
Few months outside warranty, would not goodwill part of repair Said it would not change pressure when prompted, then later on in their write up it says would not change more than 9 psi when cycled. I'm gonna change the oil pump to start. Thanks for your video.
I'm doing one of these oil pumps now but the service Manuel says I need the oil pump alignment tool, is this not required? If not what are the things I should look out for ? Thanks.
My shop manual procedure for the engine oil pump re/re it doesn't say to remove the oil pan on the 5.3L L83 and I just read a thread below asking why you had to remove the oil pan. It looks like the oil pump gasket is of sufficient length that it will just slot into the groove and is not fastened together like it is on the 6.0L LC8/L96 engines in the 2500 trucks that does state to remove the oil pan.
Just read the procedure from GM. Says remove front cover, see front cover removal, go to that hyperlink and first step is remove upper oil pan, see oil pan removal... let us know if you get it done without removing the pan. The oil pump pickup gasket needs to be compressed quite a bit and tge electrical connector on the solenoid would be a bit challenging.
@@PhillipBailey Appreciate the quick reply. I don't actually have to do the job just came across your video and then read my manual to see. Just watched a couple more videos on this and both also removed the oil pan, one guy said he just lowered it enough to pull the pump off but still had to remove all the same items you did. I wonder if the trans mount bolts were loosened, engine mount bolts removed and then raise the engine up a bit would that be enough to gain access to the pan bolts and allow it to drop enough just to slide the pump gasket off past the pickup tube elbow and of course like you say the connector!
@@subatomicparticle6535 I think to seal the oil pan properly you need to remove it as it's sealed with a bead of RTV sealant. I would not want to end up with an oil leak afterwards. If the pan used a reusable gasket possibly dropping it slightly might be an option.
Just replaced the oil pump with solenoid . Primed it before start up . Changed out all gaskets and oil pressure sensor . However , still getting the evil P06DD code. You can see the oil pressure climbing while acclerating. Any suggestions ?
Well if you're looking for another one to do by all means. I'm not quite sure what's wrong with mine but my oil pressure sits very high randomly while I drive which sets the check engine light on. I'm gonna replace the oil pressure sensor and PVC valve and hope that's the issue. Whenever I clear the code the oil pressure drops back down to regular levels for awhile and may shoot back up or not. So I'm hoping it's not the oil pump
@@PhillipBailey but like I said if I hook the scanner up to it even while I'm driving and clear the code the oil pressure goes back to normal and will stay normal for a day or so... Usually the code comes on when I really hammer on the gas. But if I drive it like a Granny it'll stay off and the pressure is fine. Usually when it shifts it shoots up very high through the first 2 gears like up to 80PSI, driving it normal.
@@TheGumbi22 Likely the pressure control solenoid is failing. unfortunately that is on the oil pump. You can change the solenoid but it requires the oil pump be removed to access it. I'd recommend to replace the entire oil pump given the work involved. It should not hurt anything driving with higher than normal pressure in my opinion. Occasionally the pump itself will fail and result in low or no oil pressure which is obviously not good.
@@TheGumbi22 once the ECM sets a code it defaults to maximum pressure. Clearing codes resets the system again until the desired and actual pressure differ by a specific amount. Then the code sets again. Likely the solenoid is sticking like I said earlier.
Thanks a lot for sharing this video. It's pretty helpful cuz I gotta do one myself. I'm just wondering if the engine has to be timed with marks in order to replace the pump. Please let me know I'll really appreciate it.
Man I had a customers cars that had this code. There is power at the solenoid. Put in a new GM pump and solenoid and still have the same code after a few miles. Had to bite bullet and refund him labor cost. But I am interested in know what the actual problem could be. Unless these pumps just not good
This code sets when desired oil pressure is above or below actual oil pressure. Oil quality can cause this but I'm sure you changed the oil when you did the pump. Low Oil pressure for any reason can also cause it. Try to command the oil pressure with a scan tool while observing on the scanner. Check actual oil pressure with a manual gage.
I can’t remember for the life of me. Was there a gasket on the oil pickup tube? I’m in the middle of a job I’ve been digging through Internet for days I haven’t found my answer it would be a HUGE help if you could answer!
My local shop is going to tackle this job for me, Ive ordered all the parts at 16:00 . I was wondering do I not need a oil pan gasket that goes around the entire oil pan?
Hey I replaced the oil pump on my 2015 yukon with the 5.3 and at start up it makes a really loud whining/whirring noise which lasts around 15 to 20 seconds, any suggestions please
Eliminate the engine driven accessories by removing the external drive belts and if the noise is still present it's coming from the oil pump or timing chain. What brand of parts did you use?
Why do you need to remove oil pan? The ls trucks had a bolt on the pickup tube that went on the underside of the oil pump. Do these trucks have the same bolt because the pickup in the pan looks different?
The oil pump pickup is integrated with the oil pan. There is an oval o ring between the pump and the pan. You might be able to cheat and just lower the pan slightly to slide the pump out the front. I'd be afraid of the pan gasket leaking if it wasn't replaced.
Actually the oil pan is sealed by RTV sealer so once disturbed needs to be thoroughly cleaned and resealed. The oil pump pickup is seen at 13:40 in the video.
I had the same code, but also had the truck say low oil pressure and to not drive anymore , mechanic saying may need a engine swap, does this sound correct?
It could be just the pump but I've seen where the pump fails and contaminates the whole engine. If the engine oil has sparkles in it they are probably correct. That engine is a PITA to replace. 23 hours just to r and r.
Use a wrench on the torgue converter ear though the bottom of the transmission case and a big f***en power bar. You could also heat the bolt with a torch then let the heat wick down the bolt to release the lock tight.
@@PhillipBailey thats a bummer. I just had this code today P06DD. 2017 5.3 . Im actually taking a mecanic course in college right now but luckely my truck is still warranty. Its quite a job, i think as an apprentice it would be a challenge to do it alone. You are a very good mecanic. Thanks for sharing the video. Ill be hoping gm doesnt put the same oem pump and hopefully have a better design.
Thank you for this video it is great. My 2015 GMC Sierra 4.3 suddenly lost oil pressure. I was hoping that this was an electric issue, so I run the engine few times until I heard some noise and then I stop and didn't run it again. Do you think I need to check crankshaft bearings and piston rods? Also is there any possibility that pump can be replaced without taking off oil sump?
Isn't the 4.3 a V6? Not sure its the same but pump cannot be replaced without oil pan and oil pump pickup removal. Not properly anyways. I'd start by checking oil level and quality, tge actual oil pressure test with a mechanical gage. Could be engine time...
@@PhillipBailey Thank you for your reply. Yes it is a v6, but I'm scared that I will destroy an engine if I crank it again. The last time I heard some noise, I immediately turned off the engine. I'm not sure what noise is that, maybe lifters or something. What I fear most is that the engine is seized. Just for your information a week or two before this happen, the sound of my engine was changed and I had a feeling something falling apart but no engine light no nothing.
@@bednarcuk I trust you have confirmed oil level and quality? Is so the I'm afraid you need to put a manual gage on it and check the actual oil pressure. I'm not sure where tge oil press sender is on the 4.3. You have no choice but to start it to confirm no or low pressure. Yes you.may have already done significant damage but you could just have a lifter problem causing the noise and may not be oil pressure. Good luck
I just replaced the oil pump on a 2015 GMC 4.3. After removing the old pump, I opened it up and found it in pieces. The engine had 36k miles on it. Installed new pump and all is well. The lifters were clattering in it also. I primed the entire oil system with a oil primer before starting the engine after the repair. You must remove the oil pan to replace the oil pump.
@@theduses well you will need to disconnect the outer tie rod ends. That's easier to do with the wheels off but you might be able to get them off from the back...
Hey man I did a same job on a 2014 Silverado with the 4.3, I did everything by the book but when I hooked up the steering rack it said power steering drive with care, is there a fix for this like having to reprogram or no
@@PhillipBaileyI got a code for a list of communication of control modules, would I have to reprogram it or get a new extension epscm because I couldn’t find a control module for the epscm?
@poloelcharro7909 the power steering control module is in the power steering rack. Are you sure all the connectors are plugged into it. Do a network code clear and then cycle the key off and on, then rescan the network . Pay particular attention to the PSCM.
I never removed the cam bolt. If you meant the crank bolt holding the balancer on that is 89 ftlbs then loosen it and retorque to 59ftlbs then 200 degrees with a new bolt.
Oil pump to block 18ftlbs Oil pump pickup 89inlbs Front cover 18ftlbs Oil pan 6 mm 89inlbs Oil pan to front cover 18 falls Balancer install with used bolt first tge replace with new bolt and 240ftlbs HTH.
Valvoline 75/90 just cause it's a little stickier than 5w20. Helps to prime the pump faster. Just my opinion. I've also used GM engine oil supplement which is about the same viscosity.
I just had these done oil pump timing chain was raddiling they showed me the parts oil pump had a hole worn in it from timing chain tensioner went bad chain was rubbing against oile pump tensioner was in peaces and word of advice ther is a wire that runs the oil pump silinode it gets oil on it and is very thin would recommend changing it cus it gets oil on it and if it brakes after all the work is done u will have to do it all over again so change the small wireing harness too 2,581 for job dealership wanted 5,700 so it u got Po6DD code get your wallet out
Hi, I have a 15 yukon with the 5.3, recently here in canada we had -30 Celsius around -45 with wind chill, after few days of starting and running in those days now at start up truck has a low power steering type sound, and can be heard when accelerating with rpms, thing is my oil pressure never before went below 3 quarters but now at idle when warm is at about 20 psi (at quarter) just today I had the p06dd code pop up the low power steering like noise is still there, before the cold and this code the truck ran very quiet but now sounds loud, could the oil pump have failed? I have been running 5w30 with a k&n oil filter which have about 3500km on it and just after the cold experiencing this, could be oil pump gone bad or the pressure sensor or something, please anybody have any suggestions help
Does that not have electric power steering? If not try removing the drive belt so nothing is turning like waterpump, tensioner, idler, ac although that's a separate belt and alternator. Lots of things can whine and if tge noise is still present with tge drive belt off its likely the oil pump. Good luck
@@PhillipBailey just noticed your reply, I wanna thank you for taking the time and getting back to me. Unfortunately it ended up being the oil pump as recently oil pressure dropped to zero, in the shop now
Pas trop sûr de ce que vous demandez. Si le solénoïde tombe en panne, il se peut qu'il ne contrôle pas correctement la pression d'huile. Si la pompe tombe en panne, vous pouvez avoir une perte totale de pression d'huile. Vous devriez mettre une jauge manuelle sur la pression d'huile au cas où l'expéditeur aurait échoué.
Brought my truck in for a recall, the day I get it back the check engine light comes on. I bring it back and they say it's the catalytic converter and that's it. They say they will order the part but close out my ticket for some reason and never order it. I go back up there and find that out so they order the part. I bring it back to get it fixed. It's under warranty but go figure a certain part isn't, the 02 sensor. That's 60 dollars so I say whatever. A day later now all the sudden a new code is coming up, one for the oil pump and it's going to cost over 2 grand. It's just odd to me that my check engine light comes on the day I get it back from them and it'll cost damn near 2500 dollars to fix all included after tax.
You didn't mention what the recall was for. Could be related if they updated software in the PCM possibly as part of the recall. Otherwise just shit luck.
The Dodge uses a similar 2 stage oil pump controlled by a solenoid. After checking it appears the most common cause for this code on the Caravan is an incorrect oil filter. Check the oil level quality and make sure the proper oil filter is installed. HTH
The drain cock is on the bottom left if facing the engine. The only way to access it is to remove a rubber cover behind the radiator, I removed the fender liner on the passenger side for better access to this.
Idk why you take the front differential off my Haynes repair manual only says remove timing chain cover literally 3 steps in the book doesn’t seem hard at all
There's a reason why professional techs don't use Haynes. You have to remove the oil pan to access the oil pump pickup. The differential must be removed to remove the pan and the steering gear must be removed to remove the differential. Go ahead and try without removing the pan. Let's us know howbit works out for you.
But my oil pressure is good it flux between 30 when ideal 45pres when running take off goes up to 70pres but it got to be the oil pump but I'm hearing rattling from timeing chain. So needs it too not cheap at all
I got the P06DD code. I just bought this truck with this code like a month ago, and I got no increase or decrease on the oil pressure, then replace the oil pressure sensor but the light still there. After I watch a lot of RUclips videos and researching all the possible causes of the problem I know I have to replace the oil pump. I think the. The real question here is if somebody can turn off the solenoide and the code can come up? (Its just another possible solution before I start takin apart everything.) I have to take it to a shop and ask to check the pump solenoide whit the scanner as you did it after the replacement of the pump.
The only way to get the light off without fixing the actual problem would be to reflash the ECM to have it disable the setting of tge code. An aftermarket tuner may be able to accomplish this but I doubt it. EFI live could do this if you can initially read the tune in tge ECM. Gm has started to make the ECMs write only to stop tuning efforts. I know this is true on the diesels but not sure on tge gas ECMs. Your probably going to have to change the oil pump.
A man that is a lot of work I miss my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 with the 350 vortec that thing will haul and work hard and no problems. i sold it to buy a 2010 Silverado, then I sold that to buy a 2017 GMC Sierra 5.3, and now I am seeing videos of this problem because I think this truck is heading this way. I think that a few months it will have this service done because of a whining in acceleration, still there is no code but in the first start of the day it will make a lot of sound ,and when the engine gets to normal temp it will stop making the sound a man I always say to much tech will always be counterproductive this things are not rocket 🚀 why put so much tech
Dang. I haven't touched the internals of the L83 yet. Plenty of experience with the earlier 5.3l. The real early ones I cheated and was able to get the bolt out of the pump without dropping the pan. Then the 07+, the pan needed to come off. I think I will at least try to cheat on these without dropping the pan. 😉🤣 Also, looks like an oil pump alignment tool is sold. No need for that?
That sucks that if you clear the code it won't have run the monitors and then after a couple drive cycles trips the light with this code. Over engineered.
@@PhillipBailey At least the parts were pretty cheap. I got quite a bit apart, ready to drop the steering rack and the diff tomorrow. Thanks for the video, really helps.
@@PhillipBailey Yah the connector was loose. I have all new parts. Going to get a new plug tomorrow too, mine is crusty. In addition to the oil pressure code I also had a code for open loop in the circuit.
Dec 24th, 2024... I have today and tomorrow off from work. Tackling this job as a Christmas gift.
I can not thank you enough for this detailed, how too!
You're welcome and glad it helped you. Hope you have a great Christmas
This is the actual fix .. if your code always comes back even after you replaced the oil with correct oil and filter replaced the oil pressure switch and especially if you had a failed ocs (vvt solenoid)that may have even broken then for sure this is your only fix unfortunately the amount of work involved but I’m sure many of us watching this is mechanically inclined and this is a helpful motion picture service guide as I call them! Bosses can say what ever they want about RUclips but when there is a video showing you an experienced technician perform a procedure that you can follow and see and get pro tips on the way then why the heck not!! Sucks the oil pan is shitty to remove but it is what it is!
Yes I agree. Use all the information available to you. The old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words " needs to be updated... A video is worth a thousand pictures...thanks for the feedback!
Hands down, best video I've ever seen concerning this issue. Thank you so much for showing us your work. 100% Class!!
Thanks for the positive feedback it is much appreciated and thanks for watching.
This it’s the best video I see in RUclips explaining super clear nothing confuse it’s perfect thanks boss to explain us and let know us you work thanks bro very helpful
Glad it helped you.
That is alot of work
Great job , your years of experience really shines through. Not doing that Job in The backyard on the ground
Literally what we're trying to do right now 😅no fun!
Had this code on my 2015 Sierra 5.3 . Had 3 oil pumps replaced under warranty within 4.5 months . I talked to the service manager and asked if there is an updated part to stop this from happening . He said no . So this will continue to happen .... I traded the truck off the next day for a truely to reliable truck .... Tundra !
I hear you... it's a shame they can't design it better.
@@PhillipBailey they did. Then they ruined it
There's a tps bulletin for a short spring that causes this
@@jessicalacosse5998 where can I find this?
My dad literally just bought a sierra with like only 60,000 k and he changed the oil sensor and its still reading no oil pressure like the pos chevy it is . They're complete pos trucks now thier engineers need firing
You are a great service manager. Appreciate the video and the knowledge
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us with this helpful video
You're welcome and thanks for watching...
i have a good doner engine coming for daughters 2012 suburban. your incredibly thorough video will be a big boost to my confidence in regards to freshening up the engine before i swap out oil related failed 5.3 thank you. on a side note hers is a 5.3LT and i can't find info on which oil pump it will have, so i'm armed and ready for either now
This code has come and been cleared by me for at least a 1000 times the last 50k miles. All good so far 2014 Silverado 5.3 170k miles. Don't replace just ignore. Unless of course your oil pressure goes to zero!
It eventually causes it to die randomly.. like on the interstate, or on washed out mountain roads in NC🙄 not fun so we're trying to fix ours
Awesome job thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I have the po6dd code and just researching it only 75000 miles
Trade it in I have a 2014 within 70k they issued a full engine replacement under warranty have been waiting 10 months for a engine they say were top of the list for replacement but that’s gotta be a lie
First time doing one ur video helped more then all data thanks man especially for the part numbers
I’ve done these. If you’ll get a oil primer, which you really need for doing engine replacement or repair on the newer engines, you could prime the entire oil system while filling the engine with oil.
Link to product you used ?
Fantastic video! Great job! This was very helpful!
So I'm savvy, AF, a few LS swaps under my belt and tons of LS/Lt vehicle maintenance over the years.....thanks for this video, I'm pissed, not at you, at GM 🙄
Thanks for the video! It took me 12 hours from driving on the lift to engine start up. I did the timing set while in there but it looked good for 170k miles, the chain didn’t seem worn compared to the new one, but glad I replaced it. I struggled with the differential install, get some help if you can! For oil priming I pulled the fuses for injectors and ignition. Thanks again!
Glad you got it done. I use a transmission jack to help lift the differential into place. Good job!
Next time for priming all you have to do is press the pedal to the floor and crank the engine. That enters "clear flooding" mode and turns off the injectors. Try it.
This is a 12.7 hour job per the book. If you charge standard rate, around $95 an hour, then it will be 95x13.7 = $1206.5 + shop supplies, parts and taxes.
Nah my shop did it for like $300
@@backwardmist2303 nice, send me the address and I will tow the cars to you and I will get my cut.
@@scientist100 😆🤣
You got good videos man. Step by step with no bullshit
Thanks for the feedback. This video is quite popular for sure.
at the same time ford also did powdered metal oil pumps. Do they plan these failures together ?
Remember that they sell parts too. They don't want them to last forever...
In 2014 after a night of heavy drinking I went to the chevy house and bought 3 2014 Silverados with the V-6 engine. Except for a glass of wine at Christmas I haven't had a drink since. But, l have been paying for that every year since in repair bills on premature wear and/or issues that were mentioned in numerous TSBs from GM.....the biggest and most frequent expense with these 3 trucks are cracked exhaust manifolds...again and again...
Professional work reflected from experience. Thank you for this video. I have a problem with oil pressure, sometimes normal and sometimes as low as 70 when idle. Do changing the oil pressure sensor and PVC valve think that it solves the problem? Because if not and changing oil pump is a must then it is out of mu hand. My garage is not equipped with a crane, so the only way is to work on the ground with the car being raised some inches higher.
For what it's worth you could try changing the oil pressure sender but I doubt that will help. Not the PCV though. Good luck.
Tech4Diag What? 70 psi at idle?!
Just finished it up worked out great I had metal chunks in the pick up tube from the pump internals so I cleaned everything out good but I think this job can be done without removing the pan but then you can't clean any metal or debrise in the pan
I suppose because of the seliond connector on the pump you may not be able too without dropping pan
@@serbia991 I'd also be concerned about that pickup tube oring...
Great job. Not sure if I missed it or not, but did you have to remove the starter to get the oil pan off?
No starter is not in the way can stay in place
GREAT detailed video. I just ordered all my parts (listed at 16:00) from gmpartsdirect for $175 USD with shipping. When you say the water pump is separate from the housing, does it mean it can stay? or still have to drain coolant and all to get the timing cover off still?
The water pump can stay in the housing. Yes you definitely need to drain the coolant.
Good luck
@@PhillipBailey thanks!🤞
Would u know what issues cause a P06DA??
That code sets due to an open or shorted oil pressure control solenoid or circuit. There is a bulletin about the wiring harness rubbing on the vacuum pump pulley so I'd check that first. # PIT5307F
How the absolute oil pressure sensor works in this engine? 🤔 is through the oil pressure sender unit?
Hey just did this everything turned out pretty good thank you! The only issue I had was the crank bolt specs. Followed instructions and when tried to turn bolt to the 200 degrees part couldn't. Maybe got 90 degrees at most and that was cranking with a big breaker bar. Big guy on a big breaker and it wasn't going. Think that's ok?
Yes its ridiculously tight. I was using a 4 foot 1/2" Snapon power bar. It will likely be ok if you used locktight. Maybe a piece of pipe on the power bar. I marked the bolts location on the balancer where I started and where 200 degrees was approximately 180 plus another 20.
@@PhillipBailey that's awesome thanks maybe I'll have another go at it. or does that red stuff that's on the head of the new bolt count as loctite? I didn't use anything on the threads
@@edctravisg no that's a dry lubricant I think. I'd probably try get another 90 degrees on it. Are you using a wrench on the converter ear?
@@PhillipBailey yes to the wrench on convertor ear. Ok I'll get some more turn on it. Thanks!
Got it! Yeah it did turn some more no prob. Just some crazy torque. Thanks again !
Very explained video thanks a lot🎉🎉
Glad it helped you out
Hey Thanks, Phillip! I have a feeling I am going to spend a lot of time watching and re-watching this video. I just bought a 2014 5.3L from the North-West Territorites Government... as is-where is silent auctin....It has been sitting for over a year. When I start it up it has good oil pressure until oil temperature nears 80C then It starts dropping off to I would guess below 10PSI as the low pressure shut down message comes up. It has oil pressure again once you apply power.accelerate etc and It does have the P06dd code and P0521.
Do you think it is worth putting in fresh oil and filter and seeing if that solves it? or is that an oil pump for sure?
Sorry I just saw this comment. It can't hurt to try an oil change for what that's worth but unless the oil is contaminated with fuel and super thin I doubt it will help. Good luck.
Hey no sorry needed! Thanks for responding! I’ve been watching some of your other videos, they are so good, it’s been super helpful, I feel like I’ve learned a lot from them. You would be my mechanic for sure if I lived near you. I thought I had a bad ground on it too as it stopped trying to crank yesterday just a day after I got it but it was just a frozen starter in the end... gotta love sub arctic living. Anyways thanks again!
Is it worth replacing the oil pressure sensor before committing to the oil pump replacement?
@@scotttrowell2783 It is in the front now so more accessible. Id probably confirm the oil pressure with a mechanical gage first if you can rig up fittings.
@@PhillipBailey Hey Phillip! where would you recommend I get or download the service/repair manual for this job that you have been referencing?
Thanks again,
You should put the harmonic balancer on before you tighten the cover all the way down if you do it that way it centers the seal on the harmonic balancer
Yes you are correct since there are no dowel pins between the cover and block to ensure the seal is centered but I felt that since each one of the cover bolts has that small insert on it that it would not make much difference. Additionally the service procedure doesn't mention doing this either. I know it was important on some engines though.
Can you produce a list of all the parts you need when replacing the oil pump
16:00 in the video.
Awesome video. I get p06dd silinolid stuck off too however my oil pressure is up at 60PSI.
I see most saying they get low oil pressure? The shop I bought my truck from used is willing to eat the cost of repairs (i insisted to meet them halfway on labor and buy parts anyways)
Any clue if that would still be a pump issue? Or is high oil preasure a major issue? I just don't want them to spend a butload of their time chasing the wrong thing.
The solenoid can fail either way causing higher oil pressure or lower oil pressure.
@Phillip Bailey ah, awesome. Thanks for the quick reply!
(Tbh rather it be stuck high than low lol)
Top notch video
Dealer found brass shavings in my oil pan the other day. :)
Went in for a PO6DD code, oil pump solenoid fault. My dash oil pressure is around 20 at idle and bout 35 - 40 driving. Still normal. What to do!
There's not a lot of brass components in that engine. Did they have the oil pan off?
@@PhillipBailey "hot idle is 17 psi, cycling oil pump control valve with GDS will not cause changes in oil pump response, raised vehicle lowered oil pan, tech notes large amount of brass colored bearing material in oil pan, cam and/or crankshaft bearing wear is suspected. Engine replacement is recommended."
@tyleru7094 hope it's under warranty
Few months outside warranty, would not goodwill part of repair
Said it would not change pressure when prompted, then later on in their write up it says would not change more than 9 psi when cycled. I'm gonna change the oil pump to start. Thanks for your video.
Was changing the pump out enough? This fix everything?@@tyleru7094
If you need to just change the timing chain gasket, oil pan removal necessary?
Yes you are supposed to drop the oil pan. It's difficult to get at the oil control solenoid connector
I'm doing one of these oil pumps now but the service Manuel says I need the oil pump alignment tool, is this not required? If not what are the things I should look out for ? Thanks.
Not sure what alignment tool that is sorry. Just take your time and clean everything meticulously.
on the pick up tube that goes into the pan.does it get an oring or what do i use to seal it?
If you are referring to the oil pump pickup shown at 13:45 in this video yes there is a special o ring seal. Shown going back together at 19:25.
Stupid question but in your order list why did you order 2 water pump gaskets?
I believe those are the waterpump housing to block gaskets and there are two.
www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-gasket-12657430
Is there a way to drop the diff instead of completely removing it! The vehicle is lifted so I’m sliding in and out, and would prefer not to remove it.
@@Matthewgarciaa possibly if it's lifted.
My shop manual procedure for the engine oil pump re/re it doesn't say to remove the oil pan on the 5.3L L83 and I just read a thread below asking why you had to remove the oil pan. It looks like the oil pump gasket is of sufficient length that it will just slot into the groove and is not fastened together like it is on the 6.0L LC8/L96 engines in the 2500 trucks that does state to remove the oil pan.
You could be right. I was going by what I was told was necessary. I'm going to recheck the procedure...
Just read the procedure from GM. Says remove front cover, see front cover removal, go to that hyperlink and first step is remove upper oil pan, see oil pan removal... let us know if you get it done without removing the pan. The oil pump pickup gasket needs to be compressed quite a bit and tge electrical connector on the solenoid would be a bit challenging.
@@PhillipBailey Appreciate the quick reply. I don't actually have to do the job just came across your video and then read my manual to see. Just watched a couple more videos on this and both also removed the oil pan, one guy said he just lowered it enough to pull the pump off but still had to remove all the same items you did. I wonder if the trans mount bolts were loosened, engine mount bolts removed and then raise the engine up a bit would that be enough to gain access to the pan bolts and allow it to drop enough just to slide the pump gasket off past the pickup tube elbow and of course like you say the connector!
@@subatomicparticle6535 I think to seal the oil pan properly you need to remove it as it's sealed with a bead of RTV sealant. I would not want to end up with an oil leak afterwards. If the pan used a reusable gasket possibly dropping it slightly might be an option.
Is most of this the same as the 4.3 lv3? The torque specs?
Just saw this on down in the comments. Thanks!
@EmilyGood-j2p I'd say yes but please double check the specs. Check out Alldatadiy.com for information.
Just replaced the oil pump with solenoid . Primed it before start up . Changed out all gaskets and oil pressure sensor . However , still getting the evil P06DD code. You can see the oil pressure climbing while acclerating. Any suggestions ?
Defective new part possibly. Misreporting oil pressure sender?
great video thank you much for posting
thanks for the comment glad it helped you out.
Thanks, great explanation.
Well if you're looking for another one to do by all means. I'm not quite sure what's wrong with mine but my oil pressure sits very high randomly while I drive which sets the check engine light on. I'm gonna replace the oil pressure sensor and PVC valve and hope that's the issue. Whenever I clear the code the oil pressure drops back down to regular levels for awhile and may shoot back up or not. So I'm hoping it's not the oil pump
Do you know what fault code it sets when the MIL comes on?
It's the p06DD
@@PhillipBailey but like I said if I hook the scanner up to it even while I'm driving and clear the code the oil pressure goes back to normal and will stay normal for a day or so... Usually the code comes on when I really hammer on the gas. But if I drive it like a Granny it'll stay off and the pressure is fine. Usually when it shifts it shoots up very high through the first 2 gears like up to 80PSI, driving it normal.
@@TheGumbi22 Likely the pressure control solenoid is failing. unfortunately that is on the oil pump. You can change the solenoid but it requires the oil pump be removed to access it. I'd recommend to replace the entire oil pump given the work involved. It should not hurt anything driving with higher than normal pressure in my opinion. Occasionally the pump itself will fail and result in low or no oil pressure which is obviously not good.
@@TheGumbi22 once the ECM sets a code it defaults to maximum pressure. Clearing codes resets the system again until the desired and actual pressure differ by a specific amount. Then the code sets again. Likely the solenoid is sticking like I said earlier.
Thanks a lot for sharing this video. It's pretty helpful cuz I gotta do one myself. I'm just wondering if the engine has to be timed with marks in order to replace the pump. Please let me know I'll really appreciate it.
Thanks for watching. No there is no timing requirements for the oil pump.
Man I had a customers cars that had this code. There is power at the solenoid. Put in a new GM pump and solenoid and still have the same code after a few miles. Had to bite bullet and refund him labor cost. But I am interested in know what the actual problem could be. Unless these pumps just not good
This code sets when desired oil pressure is above or below actual oil pressure. Oil quality can cause this but I'm sure you changed the oil when you did the pump. Low Oil pressure for any reason can also cause it. Try to command the oil pressure with a scan tool while observing on the scanner. Check actual oil pressure with a manual gage.
I can’t remember for the life of me. Was there a gasket on the oil pickup tube? I’m in the middle of a job I’ve been digging through Internet for days I haven’t found my answer it would be a HUGE help if you could answer!
At 13:40 in this video you see the oil pan and there is a thick oval O-ring between the pickup and the pump. Part number 12666993 I believe.
Is this the same process for a 2015 Yukon Denali 6.2?
I'm sure it's similar but not 100%. Check out the service information here: Alldatadiy.com
Not free but worth it in my opinion.
How long did it take to tackle this? Looked like a while compared to a 5.7
:(
its a 10 to 12 hour job in my opinion
Wow, thanks. Sounds fun
So curious after doing all this if it ended back in shop and had to have the tps bulletin for the code repaired or had that already been done?
It hasn't been back for any repairs since and I've talked to the owner on several occasions on other matters.
My local shop is going to tackle this job for me, Ive ordered all the parts at 16:00 . I was wondering do I not need a oil pan gasket that goes around the entire oil pan?
The oil pan is sealed with silicone RTV.
@@PhillipBailey thank you!!!! This is by far the best video on this issue. Thank you for posting!
@@scubastevevw thanks for the comment.
Hi ,bro I have a question this motors don’t have a oil pan gasket? Only with silicone?
There are a couple of rings on the left side and one for the oil pump pickup but the main pan uses silicone. Be sure it's O2 sensor safe.
What state do you reside in. I have the exact same code, and I need a Oil Pump. I would like to pay you to do the work.
I'm just outside Thunder Bay in Ontario Canada eh...
Does oil pan have to be dropped ?
I'm my opinion to do it properly yes. Some have said it was possible though
No oil pump alignment ?
I believe that's only required if you are reinstalling the original pump. On this 2014 the service information did not mention it.
Hey I replaced the oil pump on my 2015 yukon with the 5.3 and at start up it makes a really loud whining/whirring noise which lasts around 15 to 20 seconds, any suggestions please
Eliminate the engine driven accessories by removing the external drive belts and if the noise is still present it's coming from the oil pump or timing chain. What brand of parts did you use?
@@PhillipBailey factory pump, factory timing kit, gm oil n filter...
Does this oil pan use a gasket or just RTV? If just RTV. What is the best way to separate the oil pan from the engine block?
I missed the tap on the corners to remove oil pan. Plus the RTV etc..... Video has answered my question. Thank you kindly!!!
Mostly rtv but there are a couple orings. Once all the bolts are removed you can tap on the corner with a hammer
Why do you need to remove oil pan? The ls trucks had a bolt on the pickup tube that went on the underside of the oil pump. Do these trucks have the same bolt because the pickup in the pan looks different?
The oil pump pickup is integrated with the oil pan. There is an oval o ring between the pump and the pan. You might be able to cheat and just lower the pan slightly to slide the pump out the front. I'd be afraid of the pan gasket leaking if it wasn't replaced.
Actually the oil pan is sealed by RTV sealer so once disturbed needs to be thoroughly cleaned and resealed. The oil pump pickup is seen at 13:40 in the video.
I had the same code, but also had the truck say low oil pressure and to not drive anymore , mechanic saying may need a engine swap, does this sound correct?
It could be just the pump but I've seen where the pump fails and contaminates the whole engine. If the engine oil has sparkles in it they are probably correct. That engine is a PITA to replace. 23 hours just to r and r.
Having trouble removing the harmonic balance bolt. Tried the impact of 1400 ftlb and wouldn’t do a thing. Any recommendations?
Use a wrench on the torgue converter ear though the bottom of the transmission case and a big f***en power bar. You could also heat the bolt with a torch then let the heat wick down the bolt to release the lock tight.
@@PhillipBailey thanks I will try that.
Was able to remove it after heating it up. Came to find out that one of the timing guides was broken… v6 4.3 motor !!!!
Is the new pump a better different design? Or its the same as original
As far as i know it's the same design.
@@PhillipBailey thats a bummer. I just had this code today P06DD. 2017 5.3 . Im actually taking a mecanic course in college right now but luckely my truck is still warranty. Its quite a job, i think as an apprentice it would be a challenge to do it alone. You are a very good mecanic. Thanks for sharing the video. Ill be hoping gm doesnt put the same oem pump and hopefully have a better design.
Thank you for this video it is great.
My 2015 GMC Sierra 4.3 suddenly lost oil pressure.
I was hoping that this was an electric issue, so I run the engine few times until I heard some noise and then I stop and didn't run it again.
Do you think I need to check crankshaft bearings and piston rods?
Also is there any possibility that pump can be replaced without taking off oil sump?
Isn't the 4.3 a V6? Not sure its the same but pump cannot be replaced without oil pan and oil pump pickup removal. Not properly anyways. I'd start by checking oil level and quality, tge actual oil pressure test with a mechanical gage. Could be engine time...
@@PhillipBailey Thank you for your reply. Yes it is a v6, but I'm scared that I will destroy an engine if I crank it again. The last time I heard some noise, I immediately turned off the engine. I'm not sure what noise is that, maybe lifters or something. What I fear most is that the engine is seized. Just for your information a week or two before this happen, the sound of my engine was changed and I had a feeling something falling apart but no engine light no nothing.
@@bednarcuk I trust you have confirmed oil level and quality? Is so the I'm afraid you need to put a manual gage on it and check the actual oil pressure. I'm not sure where tge oil press sender is on the 4.3. You have no choice but to start it to confirm no or low pressure. Yes you.may have already done significant damage but you could just have a lifter problem causing the noise and may not be oil pressure. Good luck
I just replaced the oil pump on a 2015 GMC 4.3. After removing the old pump, I opened it up and found it in pieces. The engine had 36k miles on it. Installed new pump and all is well. The lifters were clattering in it also. I primed the entire oil system with a oil primer before starting the engine after the repair. You must remove the oil pan to replace the oil pump.
@@donshort6651 did you need to move the steering gear to get the pan to drop?
Does the steering gear have to be removed? Having trouble dropping the pan on my 2014 4.3
Yes it does.
@@PhillipBailey I’m a boat mechanic so I’m learning here… is this possible on ramps or do I need to be jack stands and remove the front tires?
@@theduses well you will need to disconnect the outer tie rod ends. That's easier to do with the wheels off but you might be able to get them off from the back...
How do u know it was the pump and not the oil pressure sensore
Because the pressure was not changing when commanding it up and down with the scan tool.
Hey man I did a same job on a 2014 Silverado with the 4.3, I did everything by the book but when I hooked up the steering rack it said power steering drive with care, is there a fix for this like having to reprogram or no
There should be a code in the power steering module. You need to scan it. Check that all the connectors are plugged into the rack.
@@PhillipBaileyI got a code for a list of communication of control modules, would I have to reprogram it or get a new extension epscm because I couldn’t find a control module for the epscm?
@poloelcharro7909 the power steering control module is in the power steering rack. Are you sure all the connectors are plugged into it. Do a network code clear and then cycle the key off and on, then rescan the network . Pay particular attention to the PSCM.
What was the torque spec on the cam bolt
I never removed the cam bolt. If you meant the crank bolt holding the balancer on that is 89 ftlbs then loosen it and retorque to 59ftlbs then 200 degrees with a new bolt.
That’s cool, I have been fighting that code on personal truck.. just being lazy!! Lol
Anybody get slight overheating condition over 3000 rpms, while also having lower oil pressure than normal at idle?
Do you have to drop the oil pan completely to remove the timing cover? Thanks
To remove just the timing cover I believe you could leave the oil pan on but to remove the oil pump no the pan must be removed.
@@PhillipBailey I will let you know if it works, thank you !
@@PhillipBailey I actually didn’t take the oil pan off to remove the oil pump. I just dropped it and was able to unclip the harness attached to it.
@@buddyrebel_Garcia I would be worried about it leaking afterwards as I believe it uses RTV sealant.
Thanks for the detailed video. I have a 2015 4.3 V6. Do you know if the torque specs you mention in the video the same for my engine?
Oil pump to block 18ftlbs
Oil pump pickup 89inlbs
Front cover 18ftlbs
Oil pan 6 mm 89inlbs
Oil pan to front cover 18 falls
Balancer install with used bolt first tge replace with new bolt and 240ftlbs
HTH.
@@PhillipBailey Thank you so much!
@@cpas212 the balancer appears to be different
@@PhillipBailey different torque specs?
@@cpas212 yes the v8 was torque the turn a specific number of degrees. The v6 is just torque.
What kind of synthetic gear oil did you use ?
Valvoline 75/90 just cause it's a little stickier than 5w20. Helps to prime the pump faster. Just my opinion. I've also used GM engine oil supplement which is about the same viscosity.
How many hours it take to do it
It took me 11.5 hours, start to finish.
How long did this take you?
I'd say between 6 and 8 hours
Gret video can you link parts or code part thank you for help
Parts list at 16:00 in video not including fluids...
What’s the part # for the starter switch relay ?
The switch is part of a kit. Here's a link :
Innovative Products 9036 Fuel Pump Relay Bypass Kit a.co/d/aqFcvNO
@@PhillipBailey thanks !!!
My oil pressure is at 21 at idle but when i move it goes to 40 is that normal
If you speed up the engine it is normal for it to increase
I just had these done oil pump timing chain was raddiling they showed me the parts oil pump had a hole worn in it from timing chain tensioner went bad chain was rubbing against oile pump tensioner was in peaces and word of advice ther is a wire that runs the oil pump silinode it gets oil on it and is very thin would recommend changing it cus it gets oil on it and if it brakes after all the work is done u will have to do it all over again so change the small wireing harness too 2,581 for job dealership wanted 5,700 so it u got Po6DD code get your wallet out
Glad you got it fixed. Lot of expence for sure. How many miles on that engine for the timing chain to be that loose?
@14:23 where the part numbers for those o rings?
Parts list at 16:00 jn video. 12621086 I believe times 2.
@@PhillipBailey thanks I over looked it. Currently doing a complete DOD delete with a cam and l83 to l86 swap on my 2014 Silverado.
Hi, I have a 15 yukon with the 5.3, recently here in canada we had -30 Celsius around -45 with wind chill, after few days of starting and running in those days now at start up truck has a low power steering type sound, and can be heard when accelerating with rpms, thing is my oil pressure never before went below 3 quarters but now at idle when warm is at about 20 psi (at quarter) just today I had the p06dd code pop up the low power steering like noise is still there, before the cold and this code the truck ran very quiet but now sounds loud, could the oil pump have failed? I have been running 5w30 with a k&n oil filter which have about 3500km on it and just after the cold experiencing this, could be oil pump gone bad or the pressure sensor or something, please anybody have any suggestions help
Does that not have electric power steering? If not try removing the drive belt so nothing is turning like waterpump, tensioner, idler, ac although that's a separate belt and alternator. Lots of things can whine and if tge noise is still present with tge drive belt off its likely the oil pump. Good luck
@@PhillipBailey just noticed your reply, I wanna thank you for taking the time and getting back to me. Unfortunately it ended up being the oil pump as recently oil pressure dropped to zero, in the shop now
What’s a Chevy dealer cost estimate on this my dealer is saying $1800
That sounds about right for a dealer. Roughly 8 to 10 hours plus parts...
est ce que la sonde de pression huile peut empêché à l'huile de monter
un 1500 2015
moteur 5.3
Pas trop sûr de ce que vous demandez. Si le solénoïde tombe en panne, il se peut qu'il ne contrôle pas correctement la pression d'huile. Si la pompe tombe en panne, vous pouvez avoir une perte totale de pression d'huile. Vous devriez mettre une jauge manuelle sur la pression d'huile au cas où l'expéditeur aurait échoué.
Brought my truck in for a recall, the day I get it back the check engine light comes on. I bring it back and they say it's the catalytic converter and that's it. They say they will order the part but close out my ticket for some reason and never order it. I go back up there and find that out so they order the part. I bring it back to get it fixed. It's under warranty but go figure a certain part isn't, the 02 sensor. That's 60 dollars so I say whatever. A day later now all the sudden a new code is coming up, one for the oil pump and it's going to cost over 2 grand. It's just odd to me that my check engine light comes on the day I get it back from them and it'll cost damn near 2500 dollars to fix all included after tax.
You didn't mention what the recall was for. Could be related if they updated software in the PCM possibly as part of the recall. Otherwise just shit luck.
can it be the issue to mine 2019dodge dodge grand caravan. po6dd
The Dodge uses a similar 2 stage oil pump controlled by a solenoid. After checking it appears the most common cause for this code on the Caravan is an incorrect oil filter. Check the oil level quality and make sure the proper oil filter is installed. HTH
The drain cock is on the bottom left if facing the engine. The only way to access it is to remove a rubber cover behind the radiator, I removed the fender liner on the passenger side for better access to this.
I rarely use the radiator drain as they often break and then you end up replacing the radiator. I'll remove the lower rad hose if required .
How much would you charge for that job?
Cost to this customer was $1700 plus an alignment.
@@PhillipBailey how many hours call for labor on this job ?
@@Isaac-lo7yc 11 to 12 hours plus alignment
How much is this part's and labor?
Parts run around $400 CDN and 11 to 12 hours labour plus an alignment. In my case around $1700.00
Thank you.
@@PhillipBailey Canadian dollar?
@@MrJunior6939 yes Canadian dollars eh...
How many hours total?
Between 11 and 12 hours. If I had another one could probably do it in 10.5hrs. HTH
@@PhillipBailey awesome ,thanks
I don't see the list of parts
Parts list at 16:00 in video.
Idk why you take the front differential off my Haynes repair manual only says remove timing chain cover literally 3 steps in the book doesn’t seem hard at all
Good video though and explanations
There's a reason why professional techs don't use Haynes. You have to remove the oil pan to access the oil pump pickup. The differential must be removed to remove the pan and the steering gear must be removed to remove the differential. Go ahead and try without removing the pan. Let's us know howbit works out for you.
But my oil pressure is good it flux between 30 when ideal 45pres when running take off goes up to 70pres but it got to be the oil pump but I'm hearing rattling from timeing chain. So needs it too not cheap at all
Timing chain tensioner is bad I'm getting same rattling myself got appointment for dealership
U can leave the vacuum pump on the cover will clear
I got the P06DD code.
I just bought this truck with this code like a month ago, and I got no increase or decrease on the oil pressure, then replace the oil pressure sensor but the light still there.
After I watch a lot of RUclips videos and researching all the possible causes of the problem I know I have to replace the oil pump.
I think the.
The real question here is if somebody can turn off the solenoide and the code can come up?
(Its just another possible solution before I start takin apart everything.) I have to take it to a shop and ask to check the pump solenoide whit the scanner as you did it after the replacement of the pump.
The only way to get the light off without fixing the actual problem would be to reflash the ECM to have it disable the setting of tge code. An aftermarket tuner may be able to accomplish this but I doubt it. EFI live could do this if you can initially read the tune in tge ECM. Gm has started to make the ECMs write only to stop tuning efforts. I know this is true on the diesels but not sure on tge gas ECMs. Your probably going to have to change the oil pump.
A man that is a lot of work I miss my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 with the 350 vortec that thing will haul and work hard and no problems. i sold it to buy a 2010 Silverado, then I sold that to buy a 2017 GMC Sierra 5.3, and now I am seeing videos of this problem because I think this truck is heading this way. I think that a few months it will have this service done because of a whining in acceleration, still there is no code but in the first start of the day it will make a lot of sound ,and when the engine gets to normal temp it will stop making the sound a man I always say to much tech will always be counterproductive this things are not rocket 🚀 why put so much tech
Dang. I haven't touched the internals of the L83 yet. Plenty of experience with the earlier 5.3l. The real early ones I cheated and was able to get the bolt out of the pump without dropping the pan. Then the 07+, the pan needed to come off. I think I will at least try to cheat on these without dropping the pan. 😉🤣
Also, looks like an oil pump alignment tool is sold. No need for that?
Good luck let us know how you fare.
can confirm new steering rack is around 1200 to replace
Good job 👏
Dammit dude! I have to do this to get by emissions. DAMN IT!
That sucks that if you clear the code it won't have run the monitors and then after a couple drive cycles trips the light with this code. Over engineered.
@@PhillipBailey At least the parts were pretty cheap. I got quite a bit apart, ready to drop the steering rack and the diff tomorrow. Thanks for the video, really helps.
@@PhillipBailey Turns out the little plug on my oil pump fell off. Unreal.
@@bernardthefourth you mean the connector on the solenoid had fallen off? You just reinstalled it?
@@PhillipBailey Yah the connector was loose. I have all new parts. Going to get a new plug tomorrow too, mine is crusty. In addition to the oil pressure code I also had a code for open loop in the circuit.
It's alot of work Im debating weather to just trade It in I don't feel like spending 2000 plus
All that for a damn oil pump damn i just got that code 😭😭
I agree. Way over engineered
Gracias 🙏🫂