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Yep.

On my 2011 chevy cruze so I wanna know if they change the gasket new do they have to change the timing chain

I didn’t need to change the chain on this engine. It’s a case by case basis, but if you have high miles you should expect to need a new chain at some point. They should have inspected it all while it was apart.

I let it hang from the other two mounts. You can reinstall the mount loosely if needed.

Make sure both sides of the reservoir have coolant and it’s totally full. If so, I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a faulty reservoir… it happens. It’s a garbage design.

Usually the bias is a solid 5.0V which is used for diagnostic purposes indicating an open circuit. So if he measured 3.4V with no current flowing that’s definitely suspect for a faulty PCM, but I don’t know if he tested the harness or what. Is this a video on RUclips? Sounds like I need to check it out.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist It's on RUclips channel Schrodingers Box. The name of the video is "2017 Malibu P2227 Car Dealer Asks Me to Fix It! (Free Video from my pay channel)".

He cut the signal wire of the barometric pressure sensor and there was still 3.4 volts at the PCM afterward. That means the voltage was coming from the PCM. I am thinking that could be bias voltage. Or may be not.

@@plowe6751 I just discovered his channel after a quick search. Total goldmine. I’ll check out that video.

@plowe6751 no the bias should go to 5.0V, that’s how the ECM is able to detect the open circuit so I’d agree with faulty ECM after checking power and grounds to it. The normal range of the signal circuit is say 0.25 to 4.75V during operation, the ECM sees each 0.01 or 0.05 step in voltage as a point of data…. Anything higher or lower than that and it will set a “Low” or “High” code. The low or high almost instantly tells you what kind of fault you’re looking for. There is also a signal supply voltage and a signal return voltage, the supply voltage is always 5.0V and the return voltage varies as it is affected by the sensor output and that’s what the ECM measures for data. I guess after I watch this video I’ll know what you’re talking about. Maybe I’ll do a quick check next time I get one in the shop.

Watch the full video. Pump and injectors were full of white schmidt.

That is the only true fix.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist yes it is... if you catch it early enough you can save your trans.

Probably about time for a transmission replacement or overhaul.

I suppose it is possible.

Thanks for watching.

Not always. I see plenty of turbo failures, but I see other problems such as spark plugs/ignition coil cause misfires under load which can also cause low boost and a P0299 code.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Scotty Kilmer states Chevy Cruze is the worst car ever made, and I agree. Chevy Cruze does not like aftermarket cats. Imagine having to go OE everytime you need a cat. Can't just replace the PCV valve -- you have to replace the whole valve cover. Have to replace the entire intake manifold for a missing non-return valve diaphram (unless you install the aftermarket solution by Cruze Kits). Chevy Cruze is a money pit.

@plowe6751 Scotty says a lot of things. They’re not that bad, they’re actually kind of cheap to own and repair compared to some of the other modern vehicles available. The only catalyst I have ever had to replace on one ever… was an aftermarket catalyst. All cars are expensive trash these days, some are just better than others. I’d actually like to find a cheap Chevy Cruze for a commuter…. Got 40mpg-50mpg out of the last one I had.

The cylinder head replacement procedure has you leave the timing cover in place, and then break the gasket in half and only replace half of it. So if they did that, they were following the proper procedure….. However when I do a cylinder head on one of these I always fully remove the timing cover and replace the gasket in one piece, because 9 out of 10 times it will leak oil if you don’t. Thanks.

Thank you bro for your reply. I agree they shooudve just did the whole thing because now they got to do all this all over seems like a lot of work thank u for your content 🙏🏽

You are welcome. Thanks for watching!

What’s a rough estimate for this job

Sonic is very similar. It’s possible they could have disturbed many connectors or ground eyelets. Needs to be diagnosed.

Thanks for commenting.

Good to hear you got it fixed.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist buddy my mechanic got into fixing control arms tires shocks , didn’t do anything. I had to tel him to do this stuff to get it fixed . Don’t take ur car to Canadian tire lol

The oil cooler is really the only place that could come from unless it’s a cracked engine block. You can remove the coolant hoses from the cooler and run the engine for a short time to see if oil comes from the coolant ports of the cooler.

Probably blown fuse or something.

Probably a faulty catalyst, but needs to be diagnosed to verify no other faults exist.

Por favor 🙏

There is a list of many special service tools needed for this job, im not sure if they're available all together as a kit..A quick search suggests they aren't available in an aftermarket kit. You'll need a repair manual to go along with them, so you're better off getting the tool numbers from the manual so you'll know what each one is used for.

$700-$1500 depends what needs to be replaced

Sell it/trade it in after they’re done. Get a gas engine.

Maybe they left a ground loose or possible pinched wiring harness somewhere causing a shorted network. Until recently I would have said no way a door handle could cause something like that. I posted a "Service Keyless Start" video a while back, and it was indeed caused by a door handle.... Couldn't make that up if I tried, cars are changing rapidly. "Service Keyless Start" ruclips.net/video/cqSlO5a8GBM/видео.html

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist DiagnoseDan channel had a Door Handle no start and I have seen a couple more since that time. Its crazy how COMMs can affect the entire vehicle and worse when the scantool TOPOLOGY lies to us or redraws the CAN protocols improperly, 2 recent videos with these exact issues wasted a lot of time, I feel sorry for flat rate techs who spend good money on good scanners with bad info in your face.

@DuaneDonaldson that’s exactly why I don’t trust nor rely on topology in scan tools. Sounds like a video I’ll have to take a look at.

Yes I have done that a time or two. Things are getting a little more complicated, but not too terribly difficult to diagnose... except I see a lot of very intermittent terminal tension and terminal fretting problems now. Never used to see that one pre 2000's vehicles where every connector was slopped with di-electric lubricant. Thanks for sharing.

I'm a tall guy and this truck is lifted with large tires so I had to hop or stand on something during the initial inspection and the view was disoriented from what I'm used to so I just didn't see it until I noticed it during the point I decided to do a wiring test under hood. Apprentice is short and he didn't see it at first either. If I had, we probably wouldn't have gotten this comprehensive Allison speedometer system test video, so hopefully it helps somebody some day. I did end up removing the device and restoring the wiring. Then I used a Hypertech programmer to calibrate the speedometer for the larger tires. Worked nicely. I'm glad you are enjoying my videos. Thank you very much.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist When it comes to making or not making a video, may I suggest that for easy fixes, you create a TECH TIP SHORT, quickly show the problem/symptom, quick diag with test results, The location of the problem found and the type of parts replaced , used, new, reprogramming and a final verification that the engine starts now, Scan data correct now, something like this all in ONE Minute, I hate Shorts from Alex the car doctor as they are mostly personal information and not a real world fix with quick step by step useful TIPS. His excuse is YT prioritizes SHORTS, then why is he the only tech doing so damn many useless SHORTS?? A real SHORT would be much appreciated by all viewers. Cheers

Many times it will be caused by a faulty oxygen sensor. After verification of other fuel system components, fuel trim data, etc.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist upstream or downstream sensor ?

@zeorxofline usually the upstream sensor

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist I haven't had KIA before but I think it consumes fuel more than usual , and not good acceleration.

Needs diagnosis.

I rarely see a fuel pressure regulator equipped vehicle any more. I’m sure more watch time is better, I’m not really sure how it all works. I just post and let it happen. I do appreciate you watching, I’m glad you enjoyed.

Use a block of wood and a floor jack.

Used what I had.

You just have to be careful and don’t go crazy with the heat. I’ve gotten many out this way…. I did show the part where more of the bolt broke off deeper in the hole and that was when I gave up because I had been getting it to move slowly each attempt, but it takes forever to clean up and let things cool down between attempts. Your first attempt is usually the defining moment and the first attempt on one side went less than ideal.

​@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Risk vs reward. Extraction set is your best bet to start. You can always attempt to weld it out after. You welded that bolt into the cylinder head... can tell because you keep breaking off parts of it deeper and deeper. We have "youtube" certified welders at our shop that weld out studs on hemi's all day long... why? Because that trick only works 100% of the time when its an aluminum head... there is quite literally 0% risk.

@JrSpitty I have a lot of success doing it this way. Dunno.

I have done it this way also and it works for me too. Only difference is I carefully tig weld instead of mig to control penetration.

@verajavi12 yes one of these days I’ll get me a TIG welder. I have great success with this method… sure beats drilling a hole crooked or off center. I’ve even seen a guy drill too deep and have coolant come shooting out of the hole.

Thanks!

Check codes. Erase codes, then see what code comes back. What kind of vehicle?

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist same car, it's a 2014 Impala ltz limited, same motor 3.6 vvt

@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist i definitely checked the codes today, and it had a lot. What's the best way to clear them other than unplugging the battery cables?

$25 code reader from any auto parts store. Walmart/Kroger/Fred Meyer has them too.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist didn't know they had them that cheap, thanks for that??

Nahhh probably not. Thank you though!

Yes. I’ve been bit a few times when I didn’t check the whole system before bidding a job… “oops didn’t see those rusty tooth pick bolts there”

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist don’t ya love when that happens? It’s always the “one time” you didn’t check this or that lol. Right now I’m dealing with a 2014 F150 5.0 with Codes of A/BCamshaft bank 1-2. So I replaced all four (2 on each side) Cam sensors and also the 4 VVT SOLENOIDS (2 on each side), 8 sensors total only for all those codes to come back, P0014 P0024 P0022 P0365. Despite changing all sensors didn’t change anything lol

I haven’t had the pleasure of working on that engine. I did chains on a 3.5L way back and got the crank gear one tooth off, then had to tear it back apart and retime. Had another guy check the timing before I put it back together and it was once again one tooth off because it was difficult to see the marks. Oopsie.

@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist oh no, I am not a fan of those motors haha. So much crap in the way. Speaking of crap keep this in mind! In 2012-14 (I’m not sure if ford updated this issue in 2015-present though) So yea 2012-14 ford dropped the gen 1 5.0 in the F150 while the engineers didn’t leave enough room to get one of the the rear CAM Sensors (driver side) The only way to get to it is to drop the cab or drill a whole through the firewall (and oh boy yes I know lol) but when you try pulling that sensor out, your still a quarter inch short from pulling it out of the back of the block. So whenever customers come in I give them the option to blow 10k in order to drop the front end down and if you do that might as well do the water pump and suspension lol or 2k to drill a 1 inch hole that’s a few inches away from the gas pedal to replace one of the 4 cam sensors So mechanic to mechanic whenever you do have the pleasure just know those are the only 2 options 😂😂 and the said part is you have no issues getting the other 2 cam sensors on the passenger side. Not cool lol

How precious and sweet of them to design in a little gift like that. The things I see today, the average customer will never be able to afford repairs and most of these vehicles will end up in the scrap yard as plastic waste.

Nvm did not saw the second ring.

Thank you very much! Much appreciated.

I was surprised and a little disappointed with what I found. I gave that a slight mention in video 1 and you can also hear the axle noise briefly.

It might need internal transmission repairs.

Miller MIG welder… not sure what model. It was having problems with the feed speed controller adjustment too. Otherwise worked fine.

I could make videos upon videos just with my family fleet of vehicles. I have a back log of family vehicles that need maintenance and repairs so I’m sure you’ll see a few more like this. Need to build a shop and install a lift… it’s on the list. If the vehicle is paid off sometimes a small investment is worth it. All my vehicles are older and have high miles, yet are very dependable. The older ones are usually cheaper to keep on the road, and most of the time your average gear head can handle most repairs on the older stuff.

Yes. Cam sensor offset timing. I’m sure you’re aware the ignition timing isn’t adjustable on a 98 Vortec.

Thanks.

You are welcome.

Good idea

$700-$1500 depending what needs to be replaced.

You just carefully build it up and try not to use too much heat, it’s hard to get anything to stick to the cast iron unless you go crazy with the heat. Usually I can always get them out by welding, but this was an awkward position and took many attempts so it was beginning to cost too much time between attempts.

I’m older than the truck. Mid thirties.

Thanks!