Pro tip: duct tape the primer and the PVC cement cans to each other. You can move them with one hand. They're less likely to tip over. They're always in the same place.
I agree with Bill Wendt that you need a p-trap for your floor drain and your wye after your floor drain appears to be in backwards as it is going against the flow. I love following your channel!
@@dennismahonchak3228 The shower drain needs a ptrap and the floor drain. Just to keep odors from coming back up in the house. May not get any sewer gas since its draining outside but it could.
TY in backwards for sure Needs trap on floor drain all in all looks good Keep up the good work I've always taped my cans together even in rough makes it better on the ladder
He didn't say anything about venting. He does have a riser after the toilet and another at the opposite end of the house on the outside wall that may get used for vents. He has a floor drain on the kitchen side that could be used as emergency clean out if the need should (and it will) arise. He needs another between the toilet and washer drain. Doesn't need to be a drain but he will need a clean out plug.
Al, I sure hope you address these repeated plumbing advice comments in your next video. So many experienced people commenting on the same issues is important, especially when you're going to cover the layout with concrete. Thanks, from me up here in northern NH...
Push joint together and then turn the fitting a bit. That's in case you missed a spot with the glue. Not a criticism but best practice! Also, a customer taught me to use my miter saw to cut pipe, but you would need a generator running on rough-in.
Plumbers clean male & female , glue both, connect /spin 1/8 turn & Hold for a 10 count, then run a bead of PVC glue on outside of joint for double seal & no worries. As Wm. Degnan states duct tape glue & cleaner cans together with triple wrap for ease & stability. Some also chamfer male end for better fit, just do not over apply glue cree ffff at a dam effect . Helpful hints after your rough in is complete.
Hi, just curious where your vent line is and if you have a clean out planned in case of future pipe blockages. I may have missed them, if so , disregard. Enjoying your progress!!
@@steverobinson4199 Shower trap is always under the slab. Same for floor drain trap(which is missing). Sink traps are removable for cleaning, but others are not, they have to be snaked.
@@madsciencegary3830 Thank you sir for the info. I didn't know that. I did finish work. Never knew about the underground plumbing stuff. All of my work was done after the sticks were up. All above ground stuff.
Do you know you should be cleaning the inside cut edge of the pipes? When cutting pvc, it leaves little burs that can catch "trout" and possibly clog the pipe. You can buy a tool to quickly debur the inside cut edge of the pipe.
I remember watching a video of when you bought the first 500 acres in to see this on how far along you have came it’s just unbelievable the amount of work that you and your family have put into it you are doing an awesome job for just one person.
where's you vent pipe ? how about a cleanout? and you have no trap on the washer hookup i think you need to get a book on pluming love your videos ,good luck
You need to put a vent on your shower because when you flush the toilet it will siphon the trap. The fitting on the the 3x2 combo is backwards, it will clog, won't drain. We love watching your build, I'm a retired plumber
Al, you ask for help & then you don't ever see if people's suggestions are better than your idea! You had an architect offer his help, why not listen to him as he will point out your mistakes in your house plan? You have at least 2 mistakes in your plumbing layout!!!!! 🙄
@@0g.Ghost.7373 my house is on a concrete slab and all access pipes are outside a couple feet from the wall. One goes into the house and one goes to the sewer line connection. Maybe that is how Al is figuring his.
@@margaretbedwell58 Guess I am used to houses with basements. I have one right where the commode line goes towards the outside wall and one where the main line goes outside.
@@margaretbedwell58 I think you might be in a more temperate climate. Al is in a 3-4 foot frost depth. meaning anything shallower than that will freeze solid.
Lol I remember doing an underground for a office at a apartment complex 20 years ago and they backfilled the whole complex with gravel and the office building had the deepest basement !! We came back the next day after a big rain and our pipes were 3' out of the ground floating !! We got to do it again !!
I was wondering about that too. Does venting happen at the individual drains? I know we have two drain vents going out our roof. One for the kitchen/downstairs bathroom and another for the upstairs bathroom.
Al at 26:09 you have a 4x2 combination, or it maybe a 3x2 turned the wrong way. I was a plumber for 50 years and believe me this will cause a problem, plus if the inspector sees it he will fail your inspection, The way you have the combination installed the flow will travel upstream before it can flow downstream and the upward flow from the upstream fitting will have a tenancy to flow into the 2-inch line.
Very interesting video, once again thankyou. One tip I would give you - if you allow me is all those stubs you have sticking out of the ground it might be advisable to temporarily cap them to make sure that no concrete or anything else can fall into the pipe work and block it up... Its a real problem to rectify once the floors are down. I have learned this the hard way. Thanks again and I look forward to the next video.
Chris Porter~ Thank you! You're the first person today that caused me to stop and run an internet search for something else I had no idea existed. I expected to find a pruning shovel, but no... I found images for trenching shovels. Thanks again. (Have I mentioned lately how much I love Al's comment section for how much I learn? Truth!)
Wouldn't it be better to have more lag time between when you ask for viewer input and when you move on to next steps. Some people offered excellent advice and ideas after you requested it in the first tiny house layout video, but there has been no time for you to make correlating adjustments.
The first time I tackled a project like this I put it all fittings & pipes together DRY and laid it on the floor. Then had a friendly plumber inspect it and point out all my mistakes. I paid him for his service. Then I went back & corrected all my mistakes, glued it together and buried it. I was EXTREMELY happy I tackled it this way. In ground 8 years and NO problems of any kind..
Can anyone get in touch with al and tell he needs a trap in the main line and a vent and clean outs plus the one " 45 degree that is going backwards. He needs to know before they pore concrete
Al, not being critical but you seemed hurried in putting in the plumbing and by the comments i read there is a couple of changes that will need to be done. now is the time to backup and get it right.
Great effort Al & Gina 👍👍 Enough folks have already mentioned lack of clean out ports, gas venting plus other septic plumbing basics. My concern⚠️ is all the ground water ⚠️coming off the up land slope just behind this slab⚠️. You'll need curtain trench drainage around the rear and both sides of the slab. At 27:20 you can see the water runoff trails heading for the slab in the overhead shot coming off the upland slope.
These days you need to plan and design for 100 year storm events which are more common now in New encland. This past remnant of the hurricane deposited 200 year storm water fall. Design water retention, runoff control for min. 100 year storm standards. 20+ years ago 5 to 20 year event capacity seemed sufficient.
Run your under slab pipe work in straight lines (like a grid parallel with the edges), make run joins, angles and manifolds outside the slab where possible and mark up a drawing with measurements and photos to clearly show your pipe routes if you have problems or want to avoid them in the future. The extra pipe is cheap, fixing issues under a slab is a massive issue in time cost and a finish.
The 45 Wye bend for the floor drain at 25:58 is going the wrong way - the turn always should face towards where the water flows - so it flows towards the outside. The line that goes off to the wall drains improperly into the bend. If you need to run a snake from the wall sink drain towards the outside, it will stop at the 45 wye. Plus if you need to snake the center drain to the outside, the snake might go to the wall sink or it might go to the outside. Imagine the water flowing the easiest way possible towards the outside. That 45° wye fitting has the bend going the wrong way from the wall sink.
Yes, he had it laid out correctly at first but then got it backwards when it came to glueing. That won't pass inspection. 25:56 is correct. 26:06 is incorrect.
@@dwd3416 It will with out a trap and even then you have to flush the trap with water every now and then to keep it working. They will dry out and the trap water will start stinking.
@@rickster9993 If you have a floor drain or a sink that doesnt get used very often, the water will evaporate out and can let sewer gas into the house, those rarely used traps need filled with vegetable oil, it will not evaporate and it will keep gasses out of the house/shed.
I was wondering how he is going to keep thing from freezing. The frostline there has to be pretty deep, 42-48". It also looks like he is building in a low spot especially if you have a ditch dug around to divert water.
Hi..... AL and Gina nice to see you love watching your videos, thank you for showing your video homestead chicken farmer garden 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 👨👩👧👸👕👓🐩🐔🐓🐥🐕🐈🐐🐖🐝🐠🌱🏡🎥👍👍👍
Hey Al you probably won't see this in time but you have your 4"x2" combination fitting installed with backward flow (26:05). Just a heads up, not trying to criticize.
Al, when going from vertical to horizontal you need a long sweep or 2, 45's to make the turn. This does not apply to the toilet where a 90 is ok. You can leave the stubouts high and pour around them and cut them off after the concrete is dry. Others have mentioned it but at a minimum you need a cleanout where the pipe exits the building. Also mentioned was putting your laundry box in an inside wall to prevent water in the trap and the feed lines from freezing. I could not tell how long of a run your shower drain is, but you should put a stubout where a wall is going to be for a vent line. I give you all the credit in the world for how hard you two work and for not being afraid to tackle anything.
First off great job. Small criticisms need to put in vent and clean outs. I also think I would have gone at least 6 inches under the slab for more stable base.
Start getting into the habit of lining the printed lettering on the pvc pipe up with the lines on the fittings, keeps things straight and easy to change for 45, 90 or 180 angles etc if required. Just makes things easy.
You have your combo wye and1/8 bend backwards in the outdoor kitchen. Your probably not hooking the outdoor kitchen to your septic, but you may want to consider a p trap still on behalf of bugs and what not. Also if you ever decide to hook it to septic later everything is good to go already. We usually build a small form for the shower trap and install it after concrete, so its easier to get it where you need it. If you are doing a custom shower pan that's probably not to critical. Also a few other minor things like the tee's should be wyes coming through the floor. Tees are for horizontal to vertical never vertical to horizontal, and wyes are for vertical to horizontal. Also 3'' and larger pipes can be run at and 1/8" and 2" and smaller should be 1/4". Other than that backwards wye it should still work fine, nice work.
You probably thought about this after the fact but lay out the pipe before you pick up a shovel. I've done the same thing (several times) :-( Of course this is like watching grass grow. I sold my stasis chamber so I can't go into suspended animation for a few mouths until you done. And I know it's worse for you, at least I can sit back and munch on some snacks while you do all the work and wonder why it's taken so long. Good work, great vids thanks for letting us join in this journey
At 9:00, isn't your slab going to have any footings? And isn't the frost depth for footings in your area at least 4 feet? If you're going run the sewer line through the footing rather than under it, you probably want at least 12-inches of cover where the sewer line enters the house. And, you should go deeper because you have to slope the area immediately around the house for good drainage. At 10:00, you should deburr the inside edges of any cuts so they don't snag anything. At 13:00 and 15:30, the width of stripe of cement applied to the pipe was about half as wide as it needs to be. It should be equal to the full depth that the pipe is inserted into the hub on the matching fitting. You only got glue on the pipe side to half the depth of the hub. At 14:00, the plumbing code doesn't permit a sanitary tee for a vertical to horizontal connection for that 2-inch stub up. Use a combo 4x4x2 reducing wye and 45. Alternatively, to minimize the trench depth, you could have used a regular (non-combo) reducing wye laid 45-degress over on it's side connected to a 90-degree bend to come up vertical. But with that arrangement the trench for the main drain line couldn't be directly below the vertical 2-inch riser. You'd have to retrench everything to offset the main drain line. At 17:00 and 24:00, another unpermitted use of a sanitary tee for the vertical to horizontal transition below the toilet. You should have used a wye laid 45-degrees over on its side connected to a 90-degree sweep directly below the toilet. But that would require shifting the whole main drain line off to one side so it isn't directly below the toilet. So the only alternative is to dig everything deeper and use a combo wye and 45-degree street bend below the toilet. At 18:50, the plumbing code requires a 3-inch cleanout for the 3-inch main drain. And the 2-inch run needs a cleanout at the far end near the washer. A better arrangement is to just continue the 3-inch pipe all the way to the far wall for the washer drain, and then install a single 3-inch cleanout there. At 19:30, assuming you continue the run using 3-inch instead of 2-inch pipe, use a 3x3x2 reducing wye and put the 3-inch cleanout outside the slab so you can snake the whole 3-inch main drain from an outdoor cleanout. At 25:57, you have the correct fitting (a reducing wye instead of a sanitary tee, yea), and mocked it up correctly, but then at 26:10 you glued it up backwards. And, that floor drain MUST have a trap to keep the sewer gas out of the house. If there's another floor drain in the other part of the house it also must have a trap. At 27:00, if that 2-inch line is the vent for the floor drain then the reducing wye it's connected to isn't oriented correctly. If it enters at the side you've got an improper wet vent. The wye should have been rotated about it's long axis so that the 2-inch arm comes into the 3-inch pipe at the very top of the line, or at most 45-degrees from the top. That's to keep the air above the water.
Aren't drains connected to septic supposed to have an s shaped pipe that keeps a bit of water in it to prevent septic gasses from venting indoors? Like the kind under a sink or build into a toilet?
Where does the upstairs drain plumbing drop in? It's good practice to de-burr the inside of the drain pipe. The burrs will catch hair. You need to vent your P-Traps, you are creating a siphon that will suck your trap clean. A toilet has a built in P-Trap and the siphon created on a flush will empty the bowl.
When you acknowledged that you were “bleeding”, I could help thinking that your new homestead is being built with “blood”, “sweat”, and “tears”. “Sweat” had been acknowledged previously, “blood” in this video, but I hope “tears” are only a brief occurrence.
Heeey ALLL, next time your working with Wifey, and you get close, give her a little love, it keeps the dream alive. Lets them know you still love them, just like when you were dating.
Just asking do you NOT have to have your plumbing inspected by an Inspector to see if done correctly prior to back filling > JUST in case of a mistake, major job after the slab is down,also note there seems to be NO vent pipe line at the end of the drainage to clear any smell from the system { a requirement from where i come from AU plus the inspection }though may have different rules over in the USA,would suggest some additional braceing around the formwork ,starts to move when pouring to late then, and hopfully you will be useing a vibrator when pouring the slab ,another question are you required to have a plastic damp proofing under the slab double taped at every joint as we are here in AU for slabs on the ground and footing trench around the edge of the slab and if a load bearing wall internaly then a thickend slab under that ,seems some rather strange rules may be the norm in the USA re building, invest in a trenching shovel you will find it a a god send { hint for a christmas presentnot long to go }
Fun Project and lots of Panning involved. Just had a question about the Primer for the pipe? Our code calls for a Colored Primer before the Adhesive. This helps the Inspection Department see that the joints are fully sealed. Do you have to have a Pressure Test for minimum of 24 hours before covering the fittings incase of a leak? Have Fun, I always enjoyed the Construction Trades. I am a Retired Carpenter and always enjoy some sort of projects. I still need to go into Home Depot, Lowes and any Home town Lumber yard and smell the lumber. Thanks for sharing your adventure in life. God Bless!!
Hahaha brown trout and tp and now that's lunch lady land funny brown trout funny . Love your vlogs and looking towards your new homestead video series. Look were like two hours or so from your state would love come help you guys....just putting it out there
No plumbing inspection? I think you need a professional to look at what you have done. As a non professional I think you have several mistakes on venting and floor trap.
If in doubt of your plans and possible changes for the future. Drop in extra blanked off drains and water lines and large bore conduit to each room then as time and plans change you can easily pick up on these instead of having to completely cut and dig up the slab.
GOOOOOOOD MORNING AL, GINA, OLIVIA AND LUMNAH ACRES CLUB. THUMBS UP, IF YOU AGREE. AL " I GIVE YOU THE INSPIRATION AWARD OF THE YEAR" ✋. I want to tell you, without you totally realizing it. You have inspired and empowered people globally to venture into areas of education and building they never would have tried before. From old and young, woman who live alone, to children who have no support system, to men who have never gotton their hands dirty into many fields of fixing and construction. YOU HAVE SHOWED PEOPLE, NOT TO BE 😨 AFRAD TO TRY. IF YOU MESS UP, SO WHAT. FIX IT AND GO ON. "I GIVE YOU THE INSPIRATION AWARD OF THE YEAR" ✋ LETS HEAR IT PEOPLE FOR AL, GINA AND OLIVIA. THREE CHEERS.
It seems like you are not planning the slab house for cold weather. Are you planning on putting foam insulation around the slab? How are you going to get the plumbing lines deep enough to not freeze?
That "floor drain" needs a trap and a trap seal primer or you will have sewer gasses entering your living space Also that 2 inch branch just before it is backwards....good luck!!!
Good Morning y'all, Interesting... Our inspectors down here in the south would make us uncovered the plumbing for inspection. Al I didn't see the vent pipe...Do you need one up that far up north? Your job looks great
When I think of “tiny house” i think of a small box you can barely turn around in. Lol This seems to me a “small sf house”. What would be the difference?
@@smckee9063 oh yeah I totally understand it’s just every other tiny house I’ve seen is really small one story. I’m not knocking then or anything it’s just what comes to mind when I hear that term
Pro tip: duct tape the primer and the PVC cement cans to each other. You can move them with one hand. They're less likely to tip over. They're always in the same place.
Excellent tip!
That’s a good idea
That is the best way to do it.
Put a 1 foot x 1 foot Form around the shower drain. You’ll thank me when you’re not busting up concreat
EXCELLENT suggestion!
Al don’t forget your clean out for main line !
/
I might have missed something but did you install a wye backwards and I didn't see a Ptrap on the floor drain ?
I think there was no ptrap and I think he is not deep enough. But he is doing great work for an beginner.
Good morning from Siesta Key Florida
You sure are lucky man to have a woman that likes to play in the dirt with you.
Hey neighbor! I'm not far down the road on SR64
The TEE at the floor drain is turned the wrong direction.
My wife and I raised 4 children in a 960 square foot house. I didn't realize we were in a tiny house, but we made it work
I agree with Bill Wendt that you need a p-trap for your floor drain and your wye after your floor drain appears to be in backwards as it is going against the flow. I love following your channel!
I believe you are right about the wye and trap. I also wonder about the choice of pipe, why not black ABS?
No need for a trap. If you watch the video closely that line is running out of the building to the ditch in the back. No sewer gases.
@@dennismahonchak3228 The shower drain needs a ptrap and the floor drain. Just to keep odors from coming back up in the house. May not get any sewer gas since its draining outside but it could.
You are correct need p-traps and the last 4x3 combo was put in backwards! Needs to be fixed before the slab is poured.
TY in backwards for sure
Needs trap on floor drain all in all looks good
Keep up the good work I've always taped my cans together even in rough makes it better on the ladder
The floor drain needs a trap to keep sewer gasses out of the kitchen. I don't understand your plans for venting would you share that with us.
I was also thinking about that.
me too, I haven't acknowledged any drain ventilation
He didn't say anything about venting. He does have a riser after the toilet and another at the opposite end of the house on the outside wall that may get used for vents. He has a floor drain on the kitchen side that could be used as emergency clean out if the need should (and it will) arise. He needs another between the toilet and washer drain. Doesn't need to be a drain but he will need a clean out plug.
The floor drain is going directly to the outside - It's not being tied in to the septic system.
It looks like the floor drain is his vent.
Al, I sure hope you address these repeated plumbing advice comments in your next video. So many experienced people commenting on the same issues is important, especially when you're going to cover the layout with concrete. Thanks, from me up here in northern NH...
Push joint together and then turn the fitting a bit. That's in case you missed a spot with the glue. Not a criticism but best practice! Also, a customer taught me to use my miter saw to cut pipe, but you would need a generator running on rough-in.
I use my Dewalt miter saw to cut PVC pipe. Fast, easy, clean square cut.
Plumbers clean male & female , glue both, connect /spin 1/8 turn & Hold for a 10 count, then run a bead of PVC glue on outside of joint for double seal & no worries. As Wm. Degnan states duct tape glue & cleaner cans together with triple wrap for ease & stability. Some also chamfer male end for better fit, just do not over apply glue cree ffff at a dam effect . Helpful hints after your rough in is complete.
Hi, just curious where your vent line is and if you have a clean out planned in case of future pipe blockages. I may have missed them, if so , disregard. Enjoying your progress!!
I'm also curious as to why the p-trap is under the slab. It's a trap in case it needs to be removed and cleaned.
@@steverobinson4199 Shower trap is always under the slab. Same for floor drain trap(which is missing). Sink traps are removable for cleaning, but others are not, they have to be snaked.
@@madsciencegary3830 Thank you sir for the info. I didn't know that. I did finish work. Never knew about the underground plumbing stuff. All of my work was done after the sticks were up. All above ground stuff.
@@steverobinson4199 how do you install a shower or a floor drain that has the trap ABOVE the floor?
@@warrenmichael918 raise the floor 😁
Do you know you should be cleaning the inside cut edge of the pipes? When cutting pvc, it leaves little burs that can catch "trout" and possibly clog the pipe. You can buy a tool to quickly debur the inside cut edge of the pipe.
I remember watching a video of when you bought the first 500 acres in to see this on how far along you have came it’s just unbelievable the amount of work that you and your family have put into it you are doing an awesome job for just one person.
ruclips.net/video/Vv7A-wBvWQM/видео.html
Two people Gina is always there helping❤️
Two people! Gina too😁
remember? it was less than a year ago? oh wait nevermind, i cant remember that far back either lol :)
where's you vent pipe ?
how about a cleanout?
and you have no trap on the washer hookup
i think you need to get a book on pluming
love your videos ,good luck
Our inspectors would never allow covering pipe up before his inspection. Especially a DIYer.
I was wondering about that.
Rural. Probably don't have inspections? The septic system is regulated by the State DNR. That's why it needed the inspection.
Off grid homes don’t need to be inspected unless home owners want to insure there homes
@@patrickgrandy6665 His leech field was inspected.
@@dcrahn The plumbing in the house is wrong.
You need to put a vent on your shower because when you flush the toilet it will siphon the trap. The fitting on the the 3x2 combo is backwards, it will clog, won't drain. We love watching your build, I'm a retired plumber
The one that he put in at about 26 minutes in the video?
Al, you ask for help & then you don't ever see if people's suggestions are better than your idea!
You had an architect offer his help, why not listen to him as he will point out your mistakes in your house plan?
You have at least 2 mistakes in your plumbing layout!!!!! 🙄
Most places require your underground plumbing to be inspected before you can cover it up
Where are the clean out/access ports in your sewer drain line for unclogging plumbing issues? You need a few places to put in a Plumber's SNAKE.
I thought the same thing. All sewage pipes under concrete is going to suck if it clogs with no access ports...
@@0g.Ghost.7373 my house is on a concrete slab and all access pipes are outside a couple feet from the wall. One goes into the house and one goes to the sewer line connection. Maybe that is how Al is figuring his.
@@margaretbedwell58 Guess I am used to houses with basements. I have one right where the commode line goes towards the outside wall and one where the main line goes outside.
@@margaretbedwell58 I think you might be in a more temperate climate. Al is in a 3-4 foot frost depth. meaning anything shallower than that will freeze solid.
That "Tiny House" looks more like a regular house layout.
Plumber's level great tip . Good to know , thanks kids, good show.
Do you not have to get the plumbing inspected before you backfill it?
As it is, if the local code is anything like the standard plumbing codes, I don't think it would pass inspection. So he may as well cover it all up.
Al , you have a sweet and precious wife you are a lucky man !
Funny! Your tiny house is far bigger than most of our New Build Houses!
Oh come on. Loaded comment.
It's gonna be tiny compared to their BIG house build...LOL
Now it looks like you have your fitting reversed in the garage drain your why is going the wrong way or am I wrong
Your not wrong Russell.
need a cleanout and main vent also floor drain need a trap or you will have septic smell
From what he described, the floor drain is a Brown Water System, no sewerage, no septic gases.
@@ronaldhouseman9122 I think it all goes into the septic tank
As a plumber for 31 years you should be bedding the pipe at points to hold it in place as you go and to prevent it from floating if it rains.
Lol I remember doing an underground for a office at a apartment complex 20 years ago and they backfilled the whole complex with gravel and the office building had the deepest basement !! We came back the next day after a big rain and our pipes were 3' out of the ground floating !! We got to do it again !!
GREAT ONE I DID THIS BEFORE inspection only I thought they were in COLDER CLIMATE I am in a place where it is -40 below!!!
I didn't see any provisions for venting the system.
And a clean out..
He got at least one in the main line if you listen to the video
I was wondering about that too. Does venting happen at the individual drains? I know we have two drain vents going out our roof. One for the kitchen/downstairs bathroom and another for the upstairs bathroom.
Al at 26:09 you have a 4x2 combination, or it maybe a 3x2 turned the wrong way. I was a plumber for 50 years and believe me this will cause a problem, plus if the inspector sees it he will fail your inspection, The way you have the combination installed the flow will travel upstream before it can flow downstream and the upward flow from the upstream fitting will have a tenancy to flow into the 2-inch line.
On 26.09 I think you can see that the y piece is wrong
Or am I wrong now
Tons of progress. Can't even imagine the sense of pride you will have when it's all done.
Definitely NOT a tiny house! Temp small house but huge by most standards! You can use y+45 or a combo to do 90 deg turns but 45 is better flow!
Very interesting video, once again thankyou. One tip I would give you - if you allow me is all those stubs you have sticking out of the ground it might be advisable to temporarily cap them to make sure that no concrete or anything else can fall into the pipe work and block it up... Its a real problem to rectify once the floors are down. I have learned this the hard way. Thanks again and I look forward to the next video.
You have every tool known to man, surprised you don’t have a trenching shovel. 👍👌
Chris Porter~ Thank you! You're the first person today that caused me to stop and run an internet search for something else I had no idea existed. I expected to find a pruning shovel, but no... I found images for trenching shovels. Thanks again. (Have I mentioned lately how much I love Al's comment section for how much I learn? Truth!)
I was just getting ready to type that! Where’s your trenching shovel? I have two they are great for everything in the trenching and exact digging.
That trench shovel looks like a useful tool. Now I want one!
Wouldn't it be better to have more lag time between when you ask for viewer input and when you move on to next steps. Some people offered excellent advice and ideas after you requested it in the first tiny house layout video, but there has been no time for you to make correlating adjustments.
The first time I tackled a project like this I put it all fittings & pipes together DRY and laid it on the floor. Then had a friendly plumber inspect it and point out all my mistakes. I paid him for his service. Then I went back & corrected all my mistakes, glued it together and buried it. I was EXTREMELY happy I tackled it this way. In ground 8 years and NO problems of any kind..
Where are the clean outs? Don’t you need an inspection before covering?
Can anyone get in touch with al and tell he needs a trap in the main line and a vent and clean outs plus the one " 45 degree that is going backwards. He needs to know before they pore concrete
Right - the 45 going backwards is near the floor drain in the kitchen/main room
I don't know if this needs inspection before cement but a couple of mistakes that will haunt you later.
Good morning ! 👨🌾🇮🇪. Weekend coffee club again already! Time flying when getting loads of wrk done! 🌱🌱🌱
Good morning Ger
Good afternoon
Good morning Ger, coffee time!!
Good morning Ger🌞
evalina Warne afternoon coffee for you then ☕️
Al, not being critical but you seemed hurried in putting in the plumbing and by the comments i read there is a couple of changes that will need to be done. now is the time to backup and get it right.
Great effort Al & Gina 👍👍
Enough folks have already mentioned lack of clean out ports, gas venting plus other septic plumbing basics.
My concern⚠️ is all the ground water ⚠️coming off the up land slope just behind this slab⚠️.
You'll need curtain trench drainage around the rear and both sides of the slab.
At 27:20 you can see the water runoff trails heading for the slab in the overhead shot coming off the upland slope.
You're right on target about the water runoff trails. Al did mention before that he has to install French drains around the foundation over there
These days you need to plan and design for 100 year storm events which are more common now in New encland. This past remnant of the hurricane deposited 200 year storm water fall. Design water retention, runoff control for min. 100 year storm standards. 20+ years ago 5 to 20 year event capacity seemed sufficient.
Run your under slab pipe work in straight lines (like a grid parallel with the edges), make run joins, angles and manifolds outside the slab where possible and mark up a drawing with measurements and photos to clearly show your pipe routes if you have problems or want to avoid them in the future. The extra pipe is cheap, fixing issues under a slab is a massive issue in time cost and a finish.
This is a prime example for the need for inspections.
I'll repeat a comment I made on another comment, this is a classic example of why we have building codes.
The 45 Wye bend for the floor drain at 25:58 is going the wrong way - the turn always should face towards where the water flows - so it flows towards the outside. The line that goes off to the wall drains improperly into the bend. If you need to run a snake from the wall sink drain towards the outside, it will stop at the 45 wye. Plus if you need to snake the center drain to the outside, the snake might go to the wall sink or it might go to the outside. Imagine the water flowing the easiest way possible towards the outside. That 45° wye fitting has the bend going the wrong way from the wall sink.
I saw that , simple whoops , easy to do but should be corrected.
Yes, he had it laid out correctly at first but then got it backwards when it came to glueing. That won't pass inspection. 25:56 is correct. 26:06 is incorrect.
You would never be able to do your own plumbing in my country! 😳
He needs a trap in the main line and clean outs plus the vent I hope he hasn't done the concrete yet
@@Satya2btrue you can here as long as a Journeyman plumber signs that it is correct.
Make sure to design in clean-out access so that you can get a snake into the pipes if the lines get plugged up.
I was thinking the same thought, also his floor drain should not go to the sewer, otherwise it will bring the septic gases into the home.
@@dwd3416 It will with out a trap and even then you have to flush the trap with water every now and then to keep it working. They will dry out and the trap water will start stinking.
@@dwd3416 If you look at the video again I think you will find the floor drains exit on the opposite corner/sides to the exit pipe to the septic.
@@dwd3416 the trap keeps smells out.
@@rickster9993 If you have a floor drain or a sink that doesnt get used very often, the water will evaporate out and can let sewer gas into the house, those rarely used traps need filled with vegetable oil, it will not evaporate and it will keep gasses out of the house/shed.
😂 I haven’t heard the old “brown trout” since high school. I’m surprised that you didn’t have to leave the pipes exposed for inspection.
I've never heard that before until today... live and learn, eh?
Did you put a vent in your sewer so it won't suck your traps dry when you flush the toilet
Al you have issues. I can see several code violations. ONe-no 90 degree fittings underground. Vents on every fixture. Sorry
I'm surprised the inspection does not require the lines to be exposed for the inspector to see if it's done correctly.
Tape your cleaner/glue cans together.Makes it easier to carry and unscrew the tops with one hand.
Love this suggestion 😁
Doing it full time, _ou learn the tricks
The plumbing looks ok....but Gina's tan looks fantastic!!
Good morning from Wexford Ireland 🇮🇪
Slainte ☕️
Good morning Annette
Goooooood morning Ireland
@@teresahyneman4349
Good morning Teresa. I hope you have a wonderful weekend
Howdy Annette!
Where are your vents being installed?
That shovel why not a trench shovel. Only asking not being critical!
🤣 he's no plumber
I was wondering how he is going to keep thing from freezing. The frostline there has to be pretty deep, 42-48". It also looks like he is building in a low spot especially if you have a ditch dug around to divert water.
Hi..... AL and Gina nice to see you love watching your videos, thank you for showing your video homestead chicken farmer garden 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 👨👩👧👸👕👓🐩🐔🐓🐥🐕🐈🐐🐖🐝🐠🌱🏡🎥👍👍👍
at around 27 minutes or so in what is the kitchen i believe, you "y" ed the wrong direction
26:08
Another enjoyable video, thanks for taking us along, From UK.
Hi Sam Valentine I hope Al got all of the mistakes fixed before the concrete was poured can you find out if he did, I'm worried about it
Don't worry too much, he's the one who will have to jack hammer it up
@@colinstace1758 - I couldn't have said it better
@@samvalentine3206 it's a tough way to learn
He will have more videos to make..that's how he makes his money..just sayin'
Where’s your vents ?
We lived in a house built back in the late 60's that had a shower drain on an outside wall and every year it froze.
I hope that Al sees this.
Hey Al you probably won't see this in time but you have your 4"x2" combination fitting installed with backward flow (26:05). Just a heads up, not trying to criticize.
Al, when going from vertical to horizontal you need a long sweep or 2, 45's to make the turn. This does not apply to the toilet where a 90 is ok. You can leave the stubouts high and pour around them and cut them off after the concrete is dry. Others have mentioned it but at a minimum you need a cleanout where the pipe exits the building. Also mentioned was putting your laundry box in an inside wall to prevent water in the trap and the feed lines from freezing.
I could not tell how long of a run your shower drain is, but you should put a stubout where a wall is going to be for a vent line.
I give you all the credit in the world for how hard you two work and for not being afraid to tackle anything.
First off great job. Small criticisms need to put in vent and clean outs. I also think I would have gone at least 6 inches under the slab for more stable base.
All of which can be done within the wet walls, just remind him of the need, don't be critical.
I learn so much from your videos. Thank you Al & Gina... and Happy Mornin to you and the whole Lumnah Online Family!
Goooooood morning
Howdy Kathleen!
@@samvalentine3206 ... Howdy to you too Sam :)
Start getting into the habit of lining the printed lettering on the pvc pipe up with the lines on the fittings, keeps things straight and easy to change for 45, 90 or 180 angles etc if required. Just makes things easy.
Great idea! I would make little marks with sharpie marker when dry fitting, but had to clean it up once I was done!
You have your combo wye and1/8 bend backwards in the outdoor kitchen. Your probably not hooking the outdoor kitchen to your septic, but you may want to consider a p trap still on behalf of bugs and what not. Also if you ever decide to hook it to septic later everything is good to go already. We usually build a small form for the shower trap and install it after concrete, so its easier to get it where you need it. If you are doing a custom shower pan that's probably not to critical. Also a few other minor things like the tee's should be wyes coming through the floor. Tees are for horizontal to vertical never vertical to horizontal, and wyes are for vertical to horizontal. Also 3'' and larger pipes can be run at and 1/8" and 2" and smaller should be 1/4". Other than that backwards wye it should still work fine, nice work.
It´s a very big "tiny" house, looking forward for the big house
I am sure that they have more area to make a big house, later on in time they will appreciate it.
You probably thought about this after the fact but lay out the pipe before you pick up a shovel. I've done the same thing (several times) :-(
Of course this is like watching grass grow. I sold my stasis chamber so I can't go into suspended animation for a few mouths until you done. And I know it's worse for you, at least I can sit back and munch on some snacks while you do all the work and wonder why it's taken so long. Good work, great vids thanks for letting us join in this journey
To the Lumnah family, and to all the friends out there in You Tube land, have a great holiday weekend.
At 9:00, isn't your slab going to have any footings? And isn't the frost depth for footings in your area at least 4 feet? If you're going run the sewer line through the footing rather than under it, you probably want at least 12-inches of cover where the sewer line enters the house. And, you should go deeper because you have to slope the area immediately around the house for good drainage.
At 10:00, you should deburr the inside edges of any cuts so they don't snag anything.
At 13:00 and 15:30, the width of stripe of cement applied to the pipe was about half as wide as it needs to be. It should be equal to the full depth that the pipe is inserted into the hub on the matching fitting. You only got glue on the pipe side to half the depth of the hub.
At 14:00, the plumbing code doesn't permit a sanitary tee for a vertical to horizontal connection for that 2-inch stub up. Use a combo 4x4x2 reducing wye and 45. Alternatively, to minimize the trench depth, you could have used a regular (non-combo) reducing wye laid 45-degress over on it's side connected to a 90-degree bend to come up vertical. But with that arrangement the trench for the main drain line couldn't be directly below the vertical 2-inch riser. You'd have to retrench everything to offset the main drain line.
At 17:00 and 24:00, another unpermitted use of a sanitary tee for the vertical to horizontal transition below the toilet. You should have used a wye laid 45-degrees over on its side connected to a 90-degree sweep directly below the toilet. But that would require shifting the whole main drain line off to one side so it isn't directly below the toilet. So the only alternative is to dig everything deeper and use a combo wye and 45-degree street bend below the toilet.
At 18:50, the plumbing code requires a 3-inch cleanout for the 3-inch main drain. And the 2-inch run needs a cleanout at the far end near the washer. A better arrangement is to just continue the 3-inch pipe all the way to the far wall for the washer drain, and then install a single 3-inch cleanout there.
At 19:30, assuming you continue the run using 3-inch instead of 2-inch pipe, use a 3x3x2 reducing wye and put the 3-inch cleanout outside the slab so you can snake the whole 3-inch main drain from an outdoor cleanout.
At 25:57, you have the correct fitting (a reducing wye instead of a sanitary tee, yea), and mocked it up correctly, but then at 26:10 you glued it up backwards. And, that floor drain MUST have a trap to keep the sewer gas out of the house. If there's another floor drain in the other part of the house it also must have a trap.
At 27:00, if that 2-inch line is the vent for the floor drain then the reducing wye it's connected to isn't oriented correctly. If it enters at the side you've got an improper wet vent. The wye should have been rotated about it's long axis so that the 2-inch arm comes into the 3-inch pipe at the very top of the line, or at most 45-degrees from the top. That's to keep the air above the water.
Aren't drains connected to septic supposed to have an s shaped pipe that keeps a bit of water in it to prevent septic gasses from venting indoors? Like the kind under a sink or build into a toilet?
I was wondering the same, also where the vent stack is going
the floor drain may be gray water not connected to septic but if it is it should have a trap and should have a vent.
Where does the upstairs drain plumbing drop in? It's good practice to de-burr the inside of the drain pipe. The burrs will catch hair. You need to vent your P-Traps, you are creating a siphon that will suck your trap clean. A toilet has a built in P-Trap and the siphon created on a flush will empty the bowl.
Need vents and clean outs. Looks great other wise 👍🏼
just wondering why there is no reply to all the important suggestions? you are always asking for suggestions?
I thought he had someone doing that for him...HE CERTAINLY NEEDS IT..I have ask several questions..and never gotten a reply..gave up.
When you acknowledged that you were “bleeding”, I could help thinking that your new homestead is being built with “blood”, “sweat”, and “tears”. “Sweat” had been acknowledged previously, “blood” in this video, but I hope “tears” are only a brief occurrence.
Happy tears!
Yep, Tears of Joy 😂
Or tears of joy for what you've accomplished.😊
Heeey ALLL, next time your working with Wifey, and you get close, give her a little love, it keeps the dream alive. Lets them know you still love them, just like when you were dating.
Sorry to say it mate but your plumbing wont pass in Australia !
Well that because your water runs the other way lol stay safe and well from the North Norfolk coast UK 😏😊
Just asking do you NOT have to have your plumbing inspected by an Inspector to see if done correctly prior to back filling > JUST in case of a mistake, major job after the slab is down,also note there seems to be NO vent pipe line at the end of the drainage to clear any smell from the system { a requirement from where i come from AU plus the inspection }though may have different rules over in the USA,would suggest some additional braceing around the formwork ,starts to move when pouring to late then, and hopfully you will be useing a vibrator when pouring the slab ,another question are you required to have a plastic damp proofing under the slab double taped at every joint as we are here in AU for slabs on the ground and footing trench around the edge of the slab and if a load bearing wall internaly then a thickend slab under that ,seems some rather strange rules may be the norm in the USA re building, invest in a trenching shovel you will find it a a god send { hint for a christmas presentnot long to go }
Fun Project and lots of Panning involved. Just had a question about the Primer for the pipe? Our code calls for a Colored Primer before the Adhesive. This helps the Inspection Department see that the joints are fully sealed.
Do you have to have a Pressure Test for minimum of 24 hours before covering the fittings incase of a leak?
Have Fun, I always enjoyed the Construction Trades. I am a Retired Carpenter and always enjoy some sort of projects.
I still need to go into Home Depot, Lowes and any Home town Lumber yard and smell the lumber.
Thanks for sharing your adventure in life.
God Bless!!
Hahaha brown trout and tp and now that's lunch lady land funny brown trout funny . Love your vlogs and looking towards your new homestead video series. Look were like two hours or so from your state would love come help you guys....just putting it out there
Great job Al and Gina. Is there anything you two can't do.❤ You work so well together to get things done. Have a wonderful holiday weekend.
No plumbing inspection? I think you need a professional to look at what you have done. As a non professional I think you have several mistakes on venting and floor trap.
If in doubt of your plans and possible changes for the future. Drop in extra blanked off drains and water lines and large bore conduit to each room then as time and plans change you can easily pick up on these instead of having to completely cut and dig up the slab.
Good idea
GOOOOOOOD MORNING AL, GINA, OLIVIA AND LUMNAH ACRES CLUB. THUMBS UP, IF YOU AGREE. AL " I GIVE YOU THE INSPIRATION AWARD OF THE YEAR" ✋. I want to tell you, without you totally realizing it. You have inspired and empowered people globally to venture into areas of education and building they never would have tried before. From old and young, woman who live alone, to children who have no support system, to men who have never gotton their hands dirty into many fields of fixing and construction. YOU HAVE SHOWED PEOPLE, NOT TO BE 😨 AFRAD TO TRY. IF YOU MESS UP, SO WHAT. FIX IT AND GO ON. "I GIVE YOU THE INSPIRATION AWARD OF THE YEAR" ✋ LETS HEAR IT PEOPLE FOR AL, GINA AND OLIVIA. THREE CHEERS.
Howdy Angels! Hope you have a safe happy fun weekend!
@@samvalentine3206 Hi Ya Sam. You too. What a nice sunny 🌞 day we have. SMILE.
As cold as it get there, are there issues or concerns for freezing with your waste pipes being so shallow in the ground?
I’m not sure how his will fair, but I know we run a heat tape through our drain out that we plug in every winter to prevent freezing
Neil Kay- I'm in New Hampshire. I was wondering if frost heaves could disrupt pipe pitch, once they are embedded ?
It seems like you are not planning the slab house for cold weather.
Are you planning on putting foam insulation around the slab?
How are you going to get the plumbing lines deep enough to not freeze?
Looks good so far but do you have a plan for tying in the second floor and OH where are the vent lines???
Lumnah Acres said in a reply on previous video that no bathroom upstairs.
Al, you crack me up!! "Hello down there"! Now that was funny!
That "floor drain" needs a trap and a trap seal primer or you will have sewer gasses entering your living space
Also that 2 inch branch just before it is backwards....good luck!!!
Too bad the work was completed about 2 weeks before we see it so the concrete is probably poured and cured already. Yup are correct btw.
Check your last set of plumbing I think your reduction y is in the wrong way it should branch off towards the main outlet.
Good Morning y'all, Interesting... Our inspectors down here in the south would make us uncovered the plumbing for inspection. Al I didn't see the vent pipe...Do you need one up that far up north? Your job looks great
I'm in WA and yes you do need a vent pipe in all states!
Al @13:04 look at the Y fitting is that a hole in the side of that fitting ?
Also think about installing a clean-out access on your pipe
It's not a hole, if you look at 13:08 it looks like something sticking to the fitting as it's casting a shadow.
I like the original homestead. That is all you needed.
The old homestead does not leave them years of potential video content for youtube. Lumnah's would run out of fresh content.
Great work. In slab plumbing can be hard. Look like you have it under control. Where are you planning the clean out so its not an eye sore?
I sure hope you remember the freeze line in your ground. Aren't you supposed to make the pipes lower in the ground?
Your Tee in the floor drain area is facing the wrong way. Saw it at 27:19. Hope you change it before you pour.
When I think of “tiny house” i think of a small box you can barely turn around in. Lol
This seems to me a “small sf house”. What would be the difference?
It's a matter of perspective. The house they live in now is almost 4 X the size.
@@smckee9063 oh yeah I totally understand it’s just every other tiny house I’ve seen is really small one story.
I’m not knocking then or anything it’s just what comes to mind when I hear that term
Anybody count how many times Al says "Right on the money"?!!
I’m amazed at how many things you know how to do where did you learn such skills?
RUclips expert, but he got a few things wrong