Best presentation seen so far on Y/T ! Simple and without using those "must have" exotic special tools that every pro (me also...) has but uses...only when teaching this art to students... I have also used the cross-choked loops type... heavier but more stable on high tension. My regards (a subscriber from Greece) !
Great video. This was much easier to follow than the diagrams in Reblitz. Does it matter if you use a slightly different string size for the new leader if you are splicing on the non-speaking part of the string?
It is best to use the same size as the core wire, but you probably won't have any issues if you use a size that is off one or two thousandths of an inch.
Thank you again for an informative vid. Would I still have to back the pin out 3 to 3.5 turns if I am precoiling a string with beckett? Would you mind telling me what brand of round nose pliers you are using?
Hello Steve, Thank you for all your videos. Do you know where can I buy a pin block for practice purposes? Like the one on this video. Thank you. All the best.
Hi Juan, I'm not sure if there is anywhere to get a piece of pin block for practice purposes. I had this piece as a leftover from a pin block I had replaced. We don't currently have pin blocks listed in our online store, but we can get these for you if you'd like to purchase one. Otherwise if you have a piano rebuilder near you, you could see if they have any scrap pieces of pin block material they may be willing to give you or sell for a reasonable price.
Just for practice, You could use a 16-22 sheet dense plywood piece with a 1 1/2" thickness at least. Not the very best but even some cheap (China) piano builders/restorers use it... Mind to angle Your drill press by 2 to 5 degrees to the opposite way of the string direction to imitate an upright piano pinblock and make the pin holes deeper than the 3/5 of the full pin length. Try to find the proper drill diameter by using a torque ratchet to evaluate pin stiffness after forcing it into the hole (using the drill press again, for better results, turning the choke by hand)
Just broke a C bass on a 1947 Wurlitzer spinet. Not being a wise guy, but why don't you noose it? I know nothing about piano strings, but a bass and guitar string are all 180'd around their bobbins, then wrapped 10 or 12 times around the string itself (think of a noose). It seems like doing it that way would look nicer, be mechanically stronger, and lay a little neater when pulled into/onto the pin itself, as some must when they break so very close to the rolling edge of the pin.
what difference does it make what diameter you use to tie the string? you are making a big lump with a knot in the string!? It is going to throw the tuning of that string way down in pitch!
I have mixed results splicing bass strings. About a third of the time, they come unraveled or just break. I think it might be because the wire itself isn't in the best shape or whatever and these are strings that broke because someone hit them too hard. Maybe better luck if I replace ones broken in tuning.
Yes, I have had instances where the wire would just break again after tying it due to the wire being too weak, so it's not a fix that will always work.
I had three that broke just yesterday while doing a major pitch raise which for me breaking even one is exceedingly rare. But the strings had excessive corrosion to begin with so splicing probably wouldn't have worked anyway.
@@kwixotic Exactly if you look at the rusted strings under a loop, you will see deep pits when you remove the rust. those pits and gouges seriously weaken the strings
Useful information. Thank you! My remark would be about the presentation: it could much much more succinct. How to make a loop should be shown in the first minute, not the 6th. Also, the sound of clearing your throat is very loud in comparison to your spoken voice, and frankly, a bit annoying; something to be careful about when taping a video. Otherwise, many thanks for your generosity!
Thank you for your demonstrations. It really helped me repair my old upright piano
Your videos are great. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for sharing your expertise, I am a tuner and new technician, apprenticing at the moment. Your videos are such a valuable supplement!
Thanks Justin! I’m glad that our videos have been helpful.
Very helpful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Best presentation seen so far on Y/T !
Simple and without using those "must have" exotic special tools that every pro (me also...) has but uses...only when teaching this art to students...
I have also used the cross-choked loops type... heavier but more stable on high tension.
My regards (a subscriber from Greece) !
Could you please explain what a "cross choked loop" is?
Great! Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Really helpful video
Amazing Video, thanks a lot.
VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!
TANKS MY FRIEND USA....
Ciaooooooo
Saverio
An interesting solution. Many thanks. València ( Spain ) oct. 2019
Thanks a lot!!
Great video. This was much easier to follow than the diagrams in Reblitz. Does it matter if you use a slightly different string size for the new leader if you are splicing on the non-speaking part of the string?
It is best to use the same size as the core wire, but you probably won't have any issues if you use a size that is off one or two thousandths of an inch.
Playing ravel and all the sudden I hear a deep pop and shudder and I’m thinking “shit, it finally happened”
Do you have video to show piano wire on the other end of this string?
Yes, here is the video that you may be looking for: ruclips.net/video/cPFBHlfwlRA/видео.html
Thank you again for an informative vid. Would I still have to back the pin out 3 to 3.5 turns if I am precoiling a string with beckett? Would you mind telling me what brand of round nose pliers you are using?
I think they are Craftsman brand which I don’t believe are available any longer.
What size socket do you use for the rachet? Is it a 1/4"?
The ratchet star head uses a 3/8" ratchet.
I tried that but the loops just unraveled when I tuned it and parted.
It's not a permanent repair this right here is only for emergency repair. Until you put an entirely new string in.
Hello Steve, Thank you for all your videos. Do you know where can I buy a pin block for practice purposes? Like the one on this video. Thank you. All the best.
Hi Juan,
I'm not sure if there is anywhere to get a piece of pin block for practice purposes. I had this piece as a leftover from a pin block I had replaced. We don't currently have pin blocks listed in our online store, but we can get these for you if you'd like to purchase one. Otherwise if you have a piano rebuilder near you, you could see if they have any scrap pieces of pin block material they may be willing to give you or sell for a reasonable price.
Just for practice, You could use a 16-22 sheet dense plywood piece with a 1 1/2" thickness at least.
Not the very best but even some cheap (China) piano builders/restorers use it...
Mind to angle Your drill press by 2 to 5 degrees to the opposite way of the string direction to imitate an upright piano pinblock and make the pin holes deeper than the 3/5 of the full pin length.
Try to find the proper drill diameter by using a torque ratchet to evaluate pin stiffness after forcing it into the hole (using the drill press again, for better results, turning the choke by hand)
Just broke a C bass on a 1947 Wurlitzer spinet. Not being a wise guy, but why don't you noose it? I know nothing about piano strings, but a bass and guitar string are all 180'd around their bobbins, then wrapped 10 or 12 times around the string itself (think of a noose). It seems like doing it that way would look nicer, be mechanically stronger, and lay a little neater when pulled into/onto the pin itself, as some must when they break so very close to the rolling edge of the pin.
Did I see that correctly? Lead wire turned down or away from you and to the right. Main string turned up or towards you and to the left.
That is correct!
I tried this years ago but could not make it hold. The string knot just unravelled. Too much tension. I suppose the knot was tied wrongly...
Probably ... he doesnt give much detail on tying the string, which is vital for suggess
When a bass string breaks for me, it's ALWAYS at the bearing point, too short to do anything with.
what difference does it make what diameter you use to tie the string? you are making a big lump with a knot in the string!? It is going to throw the tuning of that string way down in pitch!
Wowu
I have mixed results splicing bass strings. About a third of the time, they come unraveled or just break. I think it might be because the wire itself isn't in the best shape or whatever and these are strings that broke because someone hit them too hard. Maybe better luck if I replace ones broken in tuning.
Yes, I have had instances where the wire would just break again after tying it due to the wire being too weak, so it's not a fix that will always work.
I had three that broke just yesterday while doing a major pitch raise which for me breaking even one is exceedingly rare. But the strings had excessive corrosion to begin with so splicing probably wouldn't have worked anyway.
kwixotic
@@kwixotic Exactly if you look at the rusted strings under a loop, you will see deep pits when you remove the rust. those pits and gouges seriously weaken the strings
I'm actually surprised that holds and keeps tune.
You speak so softly that your cough to clear your throat is startling.
Useful information. Thank you! My remark would be about the presentation: it could much much more succinct. How to make a loop should be shown in the first minute, not the 6th. Also, the sound of clearing your throat is very loud in comparison to your spoken voice, and frankly, a bit annoying; something to be careful about when taping a video. Otherwise, many thanks for your generosity!