All of your videos have been incredibly helpful. I have a 1903 Henry F Miller & Sons upright that’s been in my family for 60 years. I’m not sure it’s had any maintenance done to it in that time. It had broken/missing keytops, two broken hammer shanks, and a variety of other mechanical problems that I’ve been correcting. The fact that it’s mostly working speaks volumes to the build quality, but I’m sure I’ll need to do everything mentioned in this video to at least some of the action mechanisms.
Fantastic information. You are so generous with your knowledge. I feel confident to make minor repairs to my new (old) instrument. Thank you very much.
Wow, 👍 Love the clear and visual way you explain your trade. I knew some but forgot, so Learned alot ☺️ +Your Instruction videos come at the exactly the right time even after 7 years... just bought a 1972 Petrof Stand up piano 🎹 in "fair condition" for 40 euros. I do feel lucky 😄👍
I always learn so much from you no matter how many times I come watch these videos. Thank you. I am starting another refurbishing of my 1887 Mason & Hamlin screw stringer upright and just ordered the book "Pianos Inside Out" to help me. It has stayed in pretty good condition since I last worked on it about 4 years ago. I will probably be ordering some parts soon as well. Going to work on the hammer felts while I wait for the book. I just finished that video this morning. Thanks again. Carol
Watched nine videos and learned alot! I removed the action on a piano yesterday and when I put it back, it constantly sustained the notes. I took it out, didn't see any problems, I had broke three strings and the customer was getting irate and I had to just walk away before I did any more damage. I think the bottom of the action was in too far and the sustain rod wasn't moving the back mechanism.
Thanks for great videos. I bought a universal key tuner tool from a music instrument store with recommendation, to tune a single string out of tune. But the tool keep getting crazy stuck on the pin. Do you have an idea why this is happening? The tool got eight corners, and the pin four.. all the best! Morten and friends
Hi Morten, I have had this problem a couple of times, but it isn't common. I'm guessing it has something to do with the angle of the taper on the head of the tuning pin that causes this.
Just guessing that this also might also be due to the corners of that pin (since you said you were only tuning one string) being rounded slightly before you got the tool. Could someone have tried to tune the string with the wrong tool (like pliers etc) and not gripped tightly enough, rounding the corners? That could definitely cause binding.
Love to see this for a grand piano action, I'd presume most of the same points would be roughly the same though the action is obviously abit different, keep the videos up. Loving your stuff.
Thanks for watching and thanks for bringing your questions. I'm sorry I'm not always quick to answer. We actually do have a video which shows all of the different parts of a grand piano action.
Hi Steve. That's quite alright bud don't worry your a busy fella. I'd presume the regulation procedure is fairly similar for grand actions anyway but there are some differences in the parts, just though it'd be handy to show this video but for folk who're working on grand pianos aswell.
Thank you so much for all these great videos! The damper rod pivots on the action of our upright grand are extremely squeaky. When you said "lubrication," was this referring to the teflon powder you have used on other areas of the piano, or is that an oil job?
I have a question , as i look the springs on the action are not straight or in a line , some are bended to the right some to the left , this is normal or they need to be changed ? Thanks!
If they are hammer butt springs they may just need to be repositioned into the slot on the hammer butt. Sometimes the springs can come out of the slot.
Hi, Unfortunately, I'm over in the UK. Would you please give me your thoughts and advice. I have an upright that's been dated as early 1920s. I've had it over 40 years and know it's history from the early 1950s. It appears in fairly good condition and been well looked after, though it does have a couple of small separations in the soundboard which I'm not overly concerned about as it sounds reasonable. It was reconditioned in 1950 according to the info I have. How extensive it was, I'm not to sure. Its hardly been played since I've had it, and t's always been kept in stable conditions. I've had it tuned quite a few times. Last time it' was tuned the guy reset the tuning pins by tapping them all back a bit, he also adjusted action by adding some felt spacers, and even checked the weighting of the keys, and seemed to do a very thorough job ( hope this doesn't sound too horrific to you ). It's about a semitone Flat, maybe slightly more. Theres no corrosion on the strings, as far as I can see, and it's plays really nice. When I've asked for it to be tuned nearer to pitch, various Tuners have said, oh, it's bit risky because of its age as they may break a string. Which I'm not overly worried about to be honest. So, how big a risk is this ? Or is it overstated. Many thanks, Roj ( some great video ! Thanks ! Subscribed)
Hello, I have worked on these old uprights from time to time for over thirty years. Some are too far gone to repair, but those that are still in reasonable condition like the one you describe I almost always bring up to pitch. One reason I would not bring them to pitch is if the tuning pins were too loose to hold the increase in tension. If the last tuner tapped in the pins to increase the torque, I would think the pins would now be tight enough to hold at standard pitch. Almost all tuners I know leave them at a lower pitch because they don't want to bother with repairing a string if it breaks or they don't really want to bother with the old uprights at all. Replacing a few broken strings should not be a big deal if you are willing to pay for the extra expense. If strings do break, and many times none do, it's usually just a couple. You just need to find a technician with the right attitude. Russell Schmidt- Piano Technician with Howard Piano Industries
Damper felt replacement is one of the videos that I have on my list for doing in the future. I haven't gotten around to this topic yet for current videos.
howardpianoind Hi Steve, my piano felts need replacement. My tuner said it's not worth replacing because of its high cost. He also scared me about damper spoon adjustment that could possibly brake and come off. I am thinking of replacing all dampers myself to save money. But I haven't found a single video showing it. Is it very hard? I have already restored and refinished all wooden parts of a 100 years old piano so I think I can replace dampers what do you think?
@@howardpianoind thanks, I try yesterday and it's really better. My feeling tell me to do that before, but I will like to do the best setting, so thanks.
Can the pvc E glue be used for gluing the felt on the hammer? I have a Baldwin upright piano and the felt on the hammer has come partially unglued, Or what do you recommend? Thanks very appreciated.
I usually wood glue for this purpose but PVC E glue would probably work also. After applying the glue in order to clamp the felt in place a strong thread can be used to wrap around the felt and wood hammer moulding. Wrap around the shoulder of the hammer and bottom part of the felt hammer and wood moulding about 50 wraps. Tie off the thread and smear glue on the tread wrapping also to glue it in place and form a sort of cast on the hammer. After it dries, leave the thread on it to reinforce the bond.
Hi Steve Are the backchecks meant to be all the same level or is it normal to have some sitting below or above the others, they all look as if they're sitting at different levels in the video? Cheers
When the action is in the piano the backchecks should be pretty much all at the same level, but this can vary depending on how worn the parts are. When the action is out of the piano as it is in this video you will see more variance as the whippens aren't being held up by the capstans so the backcheck level will be more dependent on the adjustment of the bridle wires.
I've watched a good many videos showing how easy it is to remove the action . Not one explaining why some of the hammer are jamming against the strings when I try reinstalling it.
My guess is that the hammers that are jamming against the strings have broken bridle straps. If this is the case, it is because the whippen falls too far down when the action is removed causing the top of the jack to get stuck under the hammer butt felt.
@@howardpianoind I'll have to take your word for it as that is exactly what my piano turner guy also said. I only wish I had been forewarned, this might happen, ahead of removing the action. (having been told in so many how too videos how easy it is to R&R the action) LOL . Oh well , the repairs were going to be done anyway.
Hello, I was putting my action back in the piano and the whippen flange broke with the pin still inserted on the whippen since the whippen flange was so fragile. I was wondering how can I put a new whippen flange back on the whippen if I can't remove the pin from it. Sorry for interrupting, thank you for your time.
Hi Leo, Unfortunately there isn’t a way to install a new flange without removing the pin. You would need to remove the pin and put in a new pin with the new flange.
It won't play by itself the spool turns that you put the paper song on and the pump makes sound it sounds like it's working but the round spool won't continue to work by itself I got to keep holding the button
Hello, one of the notes on my piano is continuously sustained as the damper doesn't go all the way to the string. Is there a video I could watch to help sort this out?
It’s possible that the damper lever is broken. If there isn’t anything broke, you may need to either adjust the spoon or the damper wire. We do have a video on adjusting the spoons, but not the damper wire.
All of your videos have been incredibly helpful. I have a 1903 Henry F Miller & Sons upright that’s been in my family for 60 years. I’m not sure it’s had any maintenance done to it in that time. It had broken/missing keytops, two broken hammer shanks, and a variety of other mechanical problems that I’ve been correcting. The fact that it’s mostly working speaks volumes to the build quality, but I’m sure I’ll need to do everything mentioned in this video to at least some of the action mechanisms.
Fantastic information. You are so generous with your knowledge. I feel confident to make minor repairs to my new (old) instrument. Thank you very much.
Thank you sir for the information
thanks for your time
Wow, 👍
Love the clear and visual way you explain your trade. I knew some but forgot, so Learned alot ☺️
+Your Instruction videos come at the exactly the right time even after 7 years... just bought a 1972 Petrof Stand up piano 🎹 in "fair condition" for 40 euros. I do feel lucky 😄👍
I always learn so much from you no matter how many times I come watch these videos. Thank you. I am starting another refurbishing of my 1887 Mason & Hamlin screw stringer upright and just ordered the book "Pianos Inside Out" to help me. It has stayed in pretty good condition since I last worked on it about 4 years ago. I will probably be ordering some parts soon as well. Going to work on the hammer felts while I wait for the book. I just finished that video this morning. Thanks again.
Carol
Watched nine videos and learned alot! I removed the action on a piano yesterday and when I put it back, it constantly sustained the notes. I took it out, didn't see any problems, I had broke three strings and the customer was getting irate and I had to just walk away before I did any more damage. I think the bottom of the action was in too far and the sustain rod wasn't moving the back mechanism.
Great Great information. Thank you for excellent video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love these videos. Is there a way on your end to jack up the volume? Many of the videos are difficult to easily hear. :)
Hello Mr Albright,
The whippen is removed by unscrewing the whippen flange which is accessed from the back of the action.
Thank you for this video !! Very helpful
Great videos! thank you
Love your videos. Do you have one for replacing broken ribbons?
Thanks! It sounds like you're asking about the bridle straps. Here is the video you're looking for: ruclips.net/video/qL6if3B6bWg/видео.html
Thank you so much for uploading these videos. How do you remove the whippen though?
Thank you for making this video!
thanks very nice video, do you have a video explaining how to change de brides, and how to take of all parts from de piano ?
We do have a video which shows how to change the bridle straps along with several other repair videos.
Thanks for great videos. I bought a universal key tuner tool from a music instrument store with recommendation, to tune a single string out of tune. But the tool keep getting crazy stuck on the pin. Do you have an idea why this is happening? The tool got eight corners, and the pin four.. all the best! Morten and friends
Hi Morten,
I have had this problem a couple of times, but it isn't common. I'm guessing it has something to do with the angle of the taper on the head of the tuning pin that causes this.
Just guessing that this also might also be due to the corners of that pin (since you said you were only tuning one string) being rounded slightly before you got the tool. Could someone have tried to tune the string with the wrong tool (like pliers etc) and not gripped tightly enough, rounding the corners? That could definitely cause binding.
Tanks very nice!!
Love to see this for a grand piano action, I'd presume most of the same points would be roughly the same though the action is obviously abit different, keep the videos up. Loving your stuff.
Thanks for watching and thanks for bringing your questions. I'm sorry I'm not always quick to answer. We actually do have a video which shows all of the different parts of a grand piano action.
Hi Steve.
That's quite alright bud don't worry your a busy fella. I'd presume the regulation procedure is fairly similar for grand actions anyway but there are some differences in the parts, just though it'd be handy to show this video but for folk who're working on grand pianos aswell.
Thanks Sam, I'll try and get a grand piano reconditioning video put out soon. I can see that it would be helpful as yes, the parts are different.
Thank you so much for all these great videos! The damper rod pivots on the action of our upright grand are extremely squeaky. When you said "lubrication," was this referring to the teflon powder you have used on other areas of the piano, or is that an oil job?
CAN I REPLACE THE BRIDAL STRAPS WITHOUT REMOVING THE ASSEMBLY
I have a question , as i look the springs on the action are not straight or in a line , some are bended to the right some to the left , this is normal or they need to be changed ? Thanks!
If they are hammer butt springs they may just need to be repositioned into the slot on the hammer butt. Sometimes the springs can come out of the slot.
Hi, Unfortunately, I'm over in the UK. Would you please give me your thoughts and advice.
I have an upright that's been dated as early 1920s. I've had it over 40 years and know it's history from the early 1950s. It appears in fairly good condition and been well looked after, though it does have a couple of small separations in the soundboard which I'm not overly concerned about as it sounds reasonable. It was reconditioned in 1950 according to the info I have. How extensive it was, I'm not to sure. Its hardly been played since I've had it, and t's always been kept in stable conditions.
I've had it tuned quite a few times. Last time it' was tuned the guy reset the tuning pins by tapping them all back a bit, he also adjusted action by adding some felt spacers, and even checked the weighting of the keys, and seemed to do a very thorough job ( hope this doesn't sound too horrific to you ). It's about a semitone Flat, maybe slightly more. Theres no corrosion on the strings, as far as I can see, and it's plays really nice. When I've asked for it to be tuned nearer to pitch, various Tuners have said, oh, it's bit risky because of its age as they may break a string. Which I'm not overly worried about to be honest. So, how big a risk is this ? Or is it overstated.
Many thanks,
Roj
( some great video ! Thanks ! Subscribed)
Hello, I have worked on these old uprights from time to time for over thirty years. Some are too far gone to repair, but those that are still in reasonable condition like the one you describe I almost always bring up to pitch. One reason I would not bring them to pitch is if the tuning pins were too loose to hold the increase in tension. If the last tuner tapped in the pins to increase the torque, I would think the pins would now be tight enough to hold at standard pitch. Almost all tuners I know leave them at a lower pitch because they don't want to bother with repairing a string if it breaks or they don't really want to bother with the old uprights at all. Replacing a few broken strings should not be a big deal if you are willing to pay for the extra expense. If strings do break, and many times none do, it's usually just a couple. You just need to find a technician with the right attitude.
Russell Schmidt- Piano Technician with Howard Piano Industries
Is there a video demonstrating replacement of the treble damper felt set?
Damper felt replacement is one of the videos that I have on my list for doing in the future. I haven't gotten around to this topic yet for current videos.
howardpianoind Hi Steve, my piano felts need replacement. My tuner said it's not worth replacing because of its high cost. He also scared me about damper spoon adjustment that could possibly brake and come off. I am thinking of replacing all dampers myself to save money. But I haven't found a single video showing it. Is it very hard? I have already restored and refinished all wooden parts of a 100 years old piano so I think I can replace dampers what do you think?
How do you replace the bridal straps? I just got an old piano. Every one of them are broke.
ruclips.net/video/qL6if3B6bWg/видео.html
Thank you!
What is the best ditance between hammer and string when soft pedal is full down ?
A general rule is that the soft pedal should lift the hammers half the distance from the normal hammer blow distance.
@@howardpianoind thanks, I try yesterday and it's really better. My feeling tell me to do that before, but I will like to do the best setting, so thanks.
Can the pvc E glue be used for gluing the felt on the hammer? I have a Baldwin upright piano and the felt on the hammer has come partially unglued, Or what do you recommend? Thanks very appreciated.
I usually wood glue for this purpose but PVC E glue would probably work also. After applying the glue in order to clamp the felt in place a strong thread can be used to wrap around the felt and wood hammer moulding. Wrap around the shoulder of the hammer and bottom part of the felt hammer and wood moulding about 50 wraps. Tie off the thread and smear glue on the tread wrapping also to glue it in place and form a sort of cast on the hammer. After it dries, leave the thread on it to reinforce the bond.
Where do u get ptfe powder
Glad you asked! :) You can find it listed on our website at: www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/
Hi Steve Are the backchecks meant to be all the same level or is it normal to have some sitting below or above the others, they all look as if they're sitting at different levels in the video? Cheers
When the action is in the piano the backchecks should be pretty much all at the same level, but this can vary depending on how worn the parts are. When the action is out of the piano as it is in this video you will see more variance as the whippens aren't being held up by the capstans so the backcheck level will be more dependent on the adjustment of the bridle wires.
I've watched a good many videos showing how easy it is to remove the action . Not one explaining why some of the hammer are jamming against the strings when I try reinstalling it.
My guess is that the hammers that are jamming against the strings have broken bridle straps. If this is the case, it is because the whippen falls too far down when the action is removed causing the top of the jack to get stuck under the hammer butt felt.
@@howardpianoind I'll have to take your word for it as that is exactly what my piano turner guy also said. I only wish I had been forewarned, this might happen, ahead of removing the action. (having been told in so many how too videos how easy it is to R&R the action) LOL . Oh well , the repairs were going to be done anyway.
Hello, I was putting my action back in the piano and the whippen flange broke with the pin still inserted on the whippen since the whippen flange was so fragile. I was wondering how can I put a new whippen flange back on the whippen if I can't remove the pin from it.
Sorry for interrupting, thank you for your time.
Hi Leo,
Unfortunately there isn’t a way to install a new flange without removing the pin. You would need to remove the pin and put in a new pin with the new flange.
howardpianoind Thanks for the response! Is there any useful tool I could remove the pin with since it's stuck in there so tight? Thanks!
Yes, we have center pin repinning tool on our website available.
❤
It won't play by itself the spool turns that you put the paper song on and the pump makes sound it sounds like it's working but the round spool won't continue to work by itself I got to keep holding the button
Every time you misuse the passive voice, it hurts. "Sometimes the hammers need replaced." *Cringe*
Life can be difficult if you let such minor annoyances get to you.
It's a dialectical characteristic. Must be in Michigan. Also occurs in Scotland and Ireland.
Hello, one of the notes on my piano is continuously sustained as the damper doesn't go all the way to the string. Is there a video I could watch to help sort this out?
It’s possible that the damper lever is broken. If there isn’t anything broke, you may need to either adjust the spoon or the damper wire. We do have a video on adjusting the spoons, but not the damper wire.