Hi, I like your methodology for track cleaning, never thought of chrome polish but pondering on your use of 'spit' to finally clean. I use to use 'spit' when at the final stage of cleaning metal rollers on printing machines as there was nothing else as effective!!! I've always used 99.9%% IPA as I didn't want to add anything water based to the track. I'm concerned about slippage on my 3% incline. I liked Churchill Bays' comment about cream for the plastic guide rails. . . that's a pretty good idea. Thanks for the video.
I have now finished all my track and the 50 sets of points, thank goodness, but I can report that the layout is now working perfectly which is great. I shouldn't have left the layout for so long, but as we all know life and families can get very busy, so it's great to be back in action now. AN ADDITIONAL THOUGHT for you that I found was really useful was that everyone tends to forget about the black plastic guides inside the points that help direct the bogie or leading wheel. They are not metal, they do not conduct electricity, the wheels do not run on them, therefore, surely we should leave them alone? Well we want to avoid scratching them when we are doing the track cleaning but we should not forget about them entirely. I have found that many a derailment can be put down to the bogie hitting against a dirty/sticky plastic guide and with the extra bit of resistance on the guide it can pop the bogie off. THEREFORE, YOU WANT YOUR BLACK PLASTIC GUIDES (THAT ARE ON THE INSIDE OF THE METAL RAILS) ON YOUR POINTS AS SLIPPERY AS POSSIBLE SO THAT THE BOGIES CAN EASILY GLIDE PAST THEM. I use a cotton Q tip with a nourishing plastic cream (like the creams we use on our car dashboards etc that absorb into the plastic) that help feed the plastic and leave the top and sides of the guides slippery. I do this right at the end of the point cleaning process, HOWEVER, just make sure that you use the tiniest amount of cream and also make sure that you don't get any on the rails as this will affect conductivity and traction. Try it, you will be surprised with the difference it makes towards getting your trains through those points :) P.S. - I wouldn't suggest using oil on the plastic guides as it will not absorb into them (may damage them over time) and will make its way onto your track.
Very good point made there. I usually use IPA as I have some engines with traction tyres - they certainly don't like INOX - it ruins the tyres. Will get some of the cream you mentioned and give them a go . . . . carefully ! Cheers.
VERY GOOD BUT I WOULD LIKE TO SEE YOU DO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRACK AND WHERE THE POINTS ARE UNDER THE BRIDGE FROM WHERE YOU ARE STANDING REGARDS N. WRIGHT
Thank you for that very interesting as I am having electrical point problems. Two things to ask where did you get the vacuum attachment from and what is the electrical spray you used. Thank you.
Hi Julian, thanks for your message. A link for the vacuum parts is: www.amazon.co.uk/Vacuum-Attachments-Computer-Printer-cleaning/dp/B00BIHF8SS In relation to the spray you can probably only purchase it in Australia and New Zealand, however, I am sure there are many similar worldwide products. Here is a link to the Australian and New Zealand CRC product that I used: www.bunnings.co.nz/crc-500ml-co-contact-cleaner_p0258156 Out of interest the link to the Woodlands Scenics track cleaning kit that I used the wand and maintenance pads from is: www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-Tracker-Cleaning-WOOU4550/dp/B0062VH4NM
Sorry to hear that, can you make some sort of adaptor out of flexible pipe (that you can split at the ends) and some tape or hose clamps, and then tape it/clamp it to one of the nozzle fittings that does fit your Dyson? Also I'm sure there are hose pipe size adapters available out there. Best of luck.
Dear Sir, Thank you for the insightful information! But, here in Brazil, we do not have this product, "Autosol". I tried to look for its composition, but i am still in doubt. Is it a fine particulate suspension that is used, mostly, to clean oxidisation on silver surfaces? Thank you for this most useful video. I will watch your channel, from now on. Best!
Hi, thank you for your message. Autosol is a white cream that is very slightly abrasive for polishing metal with minimal scratching. It can be used on silver but would usually be considered to little too harsh. I would suggest trying a local car care product for polishing chrome. However, I would recommend a liquid rather than a paste as you want it to absorb into the cleaning pad.
I envy how clean your layout looks but I noticed your water crane is a long way from your track. Do your firemen complain about this when trying to get the bag into the hole?
Very helpful - and I happen to have most of the requirements (I have just ordered the metal polish). I love the look of your layout! Not another Kiwi modelling the GWR by any chance?
Fantastic, I've always found Autosol liquid to be a great product but finding the easiest and most efficient way to apply it to the track without making a mess was the trick. Yes, in NZ and I love the GWR but the layout is very loosely based on our trip over the Settle to Carlisle route (with a little bit of the Routeburn Track that we tramped :)). I like to use the imagination with the scenery rather than try to model an actual scene (which is also great but also more limiting). The layout is very much based in the 1930s and every month or so I swap out the locos and rolling stock for one of the other British Big Four and keep cycling around between them. It is hardly what a purist would do but I have fun and so do my family and that's the main thing I guess.
Hmmmm very interesting method.. but that is ok on a small layout, but I would hate to have a large layout and have to do this to all the hundreds of points and miles of track... you would be there for weeeeeeekkkkkkkkkssssssssssss.......................................
Thanks very much for your comments, on my points the only electrical connection is between the side of the movable flange and where it hits the main rail. I agree that one must definitely clean in there as I do at the later part of the video with the metal polish on a cotton Q tip and then also with the electrical cleaner on a cotton Q tip. I don't clean this particular surface with the cleaning pad as the flange is too delicate, therefore I do it at the end of my process as described above. Thanks again.
the main problem i have is fluff in the points and once its in the points soon dont work any more and the spring gets jammed and bends then the points dont work i have tryed flushing out with cleaner is a spray bottle but the bottle isd 2.50 to buy these days and it dont last long as it evaporates i was thinking about a small vacuum cleaner i need to make a long tube that i can fix to the hose on the vacuum and a filter on the open end you supply to the track to save sucking up the people of any of the small animals
I absolutely agree about the need for a vacuum, did you see the vacuum cleaner arrangement that I use in the video, it works really well and I can easily vacuum around all the parts of the layout without doing any damage and without sucking up the figures etc.
Hi, I like your methodology for track cleaning, never thought of chrome polish but pondering on your use of 'spit' to finally clean. I use to use 'spit' when at the final stage of cleaning metal rollers on printing machines as there was nothing else as effective!!! I've always used 99.9%% IPA as I didn't want to add anything water based to the track. I'm concerned about slippage on my 3% incline. I liked Churchill Bays' comment about cream for the plastic guide rails. . . that's a pretty good idea. Thanks for the video.
Very good cleaning tips, thank you.
I loved the mini brush-tube vacuum cleaner!
I have now finished all my track and the 50 sets of points, thank goodness, but I can report that the layout is now working perfectly which is great. I shouldn't have left the layout for so long, but as we all know life and families can get very busy, so it's great to be back in action now. AN ADDITIONAL THOUGHT for you that I found was really useful was that everyone tends to forget about the black plastic guides inside the points that help direct the bogie or leading wheel. They are not metal, they do not conduct electricity, the wheels do not run on them, therefore, surely we should leave them alone? Well we want to avoid scratching them when we are doing the track cleaning but we should not forget about them entirely. I have found that many a derailment can be put down to the bogie hitting against a dirty/sticky plastic guide and with the extra bit of resistance on the guide it can pop the bogie off.
THEREFORE, YOU WANT YOUR BLACK PLASTIC GUIDES (THAT ARE ON THE INSIDE OF THE METAL RAILS) ON YOUR POINTS AS SLIPPERY AS POSSIBLE SO THAT THE BOGIES CAN EASILY GLIDE PAST THEM. I use a cotton Q tip with a nourishing plastic cream (like the creams we use on our car dashboards etc that absorb into the plastic) that help feed the plastic and leave the top and sides of the guides slippery. I do this right at the end of the point cleaning process, HOWEVER, just make sure that you use the tiniest amount of cream and also make sure that you don't get any on the rails as this will affect conductivity and traction. Try it, you will be surprised with the difference it makes towards getting your trains through those points :)
P.S. - I wouldn't suggest using oil on the plastic guides as it will not absorb into them (may damage them over time) and will make its way onto your track.
Very good point made there. I usually use IPA as I have some engines with traction tyres - they certainly don't like INOX - it ruins the tyres. Will get some of the cream you mentioned and give them a go . . . . carefully ! Cheers.
VERY GOOD BUT I WOULD LIKE TO SEE YOU DO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRACK AND WHERE THE POINTS ARE UNDER THE BRIDGE FROM WHERE YOU ARE STANDING REGARDS N. WRIGHT
Really helpful thanks J
Super nice train 👍👍👌🚂👍👌🙋🏻♂️
Greetings from Germany Gert
I discover your channel now. Realy Nice layout, i like it very well. I subscribe now. 😃👍
Very nice layout I must say ,
Great and informative video.
great video, thank u
Thank you for that very interesting as I am having electrical point problems. Two things to ask where did you get the vacuum attachment from and what is the electrical spray you used. Thank you.
Hi Julian, thanks for your message. A link for the vacuum parts is:
www.amazon.co.uk/Vacuum-Attachments-Computer-Printer-cleaning/dp/B00BIHF8SS
In relation to the spray you can probably only purchase it in Australia and New Zealand, however, I am sure there are many similar worldwide products. Here is a link to the Australian and New Zealand CRC product that I used:
www.bunnings.co.nz/crc-500ml-co-contact-cleaner_p0258156
Out of interest the link to the Woodlands Scenics track cleaning kit that I used the wand and maintenance pads from is:
www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-Tracker-Cleaning-WOOU4550/dp/B0062VH4NM
I bought the vacuum attachments bit disappointed as it does not fit my Dyson DC40 looked really useful too.
Sorry to hear that, can you make some sort of adaptor out of flexible pipe (that you can split at the ends) and some tape or hose clamps, and then tape it/clamp it to one of the nozzle fittings that does fit your Dyson? Also I'm sure there are hose pipe size adapters available out there. Best of luck.
Dear Sir, Thank you for the insightful information! But, here in Brazil, we do not have this product, "Autosol". I tried to look for its composition, but i am still in doubt. Is it a fine particulate suspension that is used, mostly, to clean oxidisation on silver surfaces? Thank you for this most useful video. I will watch your channel, from now on. Best!
Hi, thank you for your message. Autosol is a white cream that is very slightly abrasive for polishing metal with minimal scratching. It can be used on silver but would usually be considered to little too harsh. I would suggest trying a local car care product for polishing chrome. However, I would recommend a liquid rather than a paste as you want it to absorb into the cleaning pad.
@@churchillbay1377 Muito obrigado!
I envy how clean your layout looks but I noticed your water crane is a long way from your track. Do your firemen complain about this when trying to get the bag into the hole?
Very nice layout. Can you post a descriptive video tour? Regards from Chile!
Thank you, yes I will certainly do that soon
Very helpful - and I happen to have most of the requirements (I have just ordered the metal polish). I love the look of your layout! Not another Kiwi modelling the GWR by any chance?
Fantastic, I've always found Autosol liquid to be a great product but finding the easiest and most efficient way to apply it to the track without making a mess was the trick. Yes, in NZ and I love the GWR but the layout is very loosely based on our trip over the Settle to Carlisle route (with a little bit of the Routeburn Track that we tramped :)). I like to use the imagination with the scenery rather than try to model an actual scene (which is also great but also more limiting). The layout is very much based in the 1930s and every month or so I swap out the locos and rolling stock for one of the other British Big Four and keep cycling around between them. It is hardly what a purist would do but I have fun and so do my family and that's the main thing I guess.
Hmmmm very interesting method.. but that is ok on a small layout, but I would hate to have a large layout and have to do this to all the hundreds of points and miles of track... you would be there for weeeeeeekkkkkkkkkssssssssssss.......................................
i have 100 sets of points on the layout
Your hands don't even look twenty years old
Try 40 :)
on the points you need to clean where you said no as thats were the electric makes its connection thats were they get black
Thanks very much for your comments, on my points the only electrical connection is between the side of the movable flange and where it hits the main rail. I agree that one must definitely clean in there as I do at the later part of the video with the metal polish on a cotton Q tip and then also with the electrical cleaner on a cotton Q tip. I don't clean this particular surface with the cleaning pad as the flange is too delicate, therefore I do it at the end of my process as described above. Thanks again.
the main problem i have is fluff in the points and once its in the points soon dont work any more and the spring gets jammed and bends then the points dont work i have tryed flushing out with cleaner is a spray bottle but the bottle isd 2.50 to buy these days and it dont last long as it evaporates i was thinking about a small vacuum cleaner i need to make a long tube that i can fix to the hose on the vacuum and a filter on the open end you supply to the track to save sucking up the people of any of the small animals
I absolutely agree about the need for a vacuum, did you see the vacuum cleaner arrangement that I use in the video, it works really well and I can easily vacuum around all the parts of the layout without doing any damage and without sucking up the figures etc.