2012-2018 Ford Focus Slipping? No Reverse? No Drive? Problem Solved. Easy Fix. You Can Do This!
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- Опубликовано: 29 мар 2022
- 2012-2018 Ford Focus Auto Transmission Problems. Easy fix. You can do this at home. Hope this helps. Like and subscribe. Stay tuned for more videos like this and more. P073E
#focus #transmission #l8rhp
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Aumzong DPS6-DCT Dual Clutch Transmission Reinstall Reset Tool,Compatible with 2011-2018 Ford Focus 2.0L DCT 6 Speed Dry,DPS6-DCT Transmission Clutch Reinstall Reset Tool a.co/d/7rVzqz0
Sunluway DPS6 Clutch Tool Fit for Volvo Ford Focus Fiesta Double Clutch Dry DPS6 Transmission Installer Remover Tool # 307-675 a.co/d/0xwWZRi 
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Thank you very much for that amazing video! I had this issue with my ford focus. $3,500.00 were asked to fix it. I have tried this and now my car is running fantastic. Special thanks to that unknown angel who suggested me that video!!
Just did this on my Focus, didn't have the Actuator Reset Tool available so I just alternated spraying brake cleaner and placing the Actuator back on a few times. Now my Focus runs like it's brand new again. You are a LEGEND dude!!!!!!
Nice! 👍
@@L8R-HP what if I spray carbon cleaner or 4wd.?,, any different result.?
So you just sprayed brake cleaner and then drove your car around? Having trouble getting the reset tool
@@cooperking7271 yeah after you spray the cleaner in quickly tighten the actuator back down with a couple of screws and hop in your car, and spend a minute or two just turning your key from off to the on position, the actuator will spin the fork over and over rapidly
@@jmfsmith let me know how long that’ll last you. I doubt it’ll go on for long the heat and friction material will kill those levers again.
Ford dealer quoted me 3672$ for clutch and fork replacement because it was shuttering while shifting from 1 to 2 gear.
That's what you saved me, my 2014 focus has 59000kms on it.
Just cleaned both actuators and it runs smooth again.
Cheers and thank you from Cananda.🍺
Sighs
For real same deal! This guy is a Saint!!
Start driving the car harder in 1st gear. Let off the gas after it shifts to 2nd and then drive like normal.
Reminder Gord has a free replacement clutch work under a TSB 100,000 miles so u r under the warranty for replacement.
@@jasonashley9853why ?
Thanks for this video! My 10 year old and I just fought to get Actuator B Out. Took it for a test drive and it shifts better than I ever can remember. YOU ROCK!
6:38 I would recommend using a normal drill and not an impact driver for this as you can set the clutch of the drill so you don't apply more force than desired.
Best to do it by hand if you don’t know what you’re doing. I use this little drill cuz it has different settings and works great for me.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world, God bless you always .
Which of the 8000 known caveman science fiction stories are you referencing?
Thank you SO MUCH! You’ve saved me thousands of dollars. Tonight I cleaned actuator B following your directions and it made an immediate huge difference. Tomorrow I’ll be cleaning actuator A as well to see if that fixes the occasional small slips I’m getting while slowing down. But cleaning actuator B dramatically improved my ascending shifts. Smooooth now. I’ve been babying it into second gear for years and now I finally have my car back!!
I have the same Ford Focus 2014, watching your video makes me a little better about owning this car. You are my new Mechanic please don’t go off you tube you are helping people. Thank you 🙏
I hit a cat a week ago and it fucked everything up
@@camdawson5714 lmao
This needs to be a TSB at Ford for every existing Focus and Fiestas. Really clean that clutch dust lubricate drive!
The timing of coming across this video was perfect. I had to look up others things that were going wrong with my daughter's 16 focus and watched this video "just because". I fixed the other problem that she had and magically enough a few days later she was having the hesitation, slipping problem. Ran the code and of course it show Actuator B was stuck. Did as you suggested and problem fixed. Great video and thanks for taking the time to put it together and sharing it with us.
@jay Perez is it normal when you start turning it counter clock wise and it's like it's got compression In it like it wants to kick back the other way like it's spring loaded
@@katlanshepherd1296 yes, because it is spring loaded
I did exactly what you showed in your video. Brake clean and Wd40. I didn't have that bit but used a screwdriver like you showed in another video. And it Worked! Thank you. I appreciate you posting these videos.
Did you have to do the reset with the diagnostic computer as well?
@@jonathanjones8895 No I just unplugged the battery before the process. Then connect after to reset.
@theroyalonemalik4125 I have some questions my boy? What screw driver did you use? Star bit? Fill-up? Flat? Also what issues were u having?
@@marioo6315 but make sure it fits tight or you will strip it out. Then the actuator wont work.
@@theroyalonemalik4125 I just ordered the spline 6mm
I agree with you, after experiencing driving a Ford Powershift dual clutch 6DCT250 for 8 years on Fiesta Ecoboost 1.0L at hot tropical country with total 90k km, I have concluded that this transmission is quite reliable and enjoyable which suits my driving style which has never been trouble since brand new. As far as I know, all Ford Powershift problems are not due to flaw design, but due to 2 material defects supplied by the vendor, namely the TCM and shaft seals on the early generation Powershift, If you get a late generation powershift like I have then it is completely problem free. And apart from that due to lack of maintenance which in my opinion should be cleaned every 50-75k km so that the clutch unit mechanism is smooth and does not jam due to very dirty clutch dust. But by the way thanks for your informative video 🙏
Just Got the invoice for whole entire replacement, 3k for everything(All) in the Bell Housing, He told me its the Forks A&B inside of the Housing,(From Experience)He's a transmission specialist of 20+years, The #1 atleast in my County, Blessing 🙌
This video was super helpful. Started having issues with my 2014 Focus and I thought it was the TCM again. Dealer said it was "bent clutch forks" and would be $3000-$4000 to fix. Just went through this process and so far so good.
Is your clutch stil going?
Amazing, helpful video brother! FYI - clutch actuator A controls only the odd forward gears (1, 3, 5). Actuator B controls even gears and reverse. Hope this helps if you experience skipping gears.
Correct, I should have explained it better
@@L8R-HP You did a great job! I removed my actuator B and tried to use a M6 spline tool to turn the forks, but the hole in the actuator well appeared to worn or stripped. I'll try to order the tool you recommend to turn them and see if it fits better. If not, I assume I will need to remove the transmission. Thanks again!
What scan tool are you using? I would like to perform the resets on my transmission before taking to dealer.
@@drewnelson5433 you kinda don't need to. It'll do the drum calibration if it feels that your gears are out of whack or a clutch is stuck. I did this procedure without the calibrations and it worked fine. As far as a transmission computer reset, you just have to turn on your vehicle, turn it off, exit the vehicle, close the door, lock it so it beeps, get back in and start it up. Or instead of getting out, just pretend like you did. Just make sure you unlock the door with your key and not your door if you don't want your alarm to go off.
Meu camarada, sou brasileiro. Vi seu vídeo e muito obrigado, funcionou bem mano
Have 14,000 miles on my 2017 and blown away I’m having this issue already. I hardly drive the car and never imagined something like this before it would be traded in.
Worked great, drives like new! Great video
thank you... I won't do this myself, but I now know where I'll take it to get it looked at and hopefully repaired.
Thankyou for sharing your knowledge and information on cleaning the clutch forks linkage .
You have saved my life. I almost drove my car into a canal, it is giving me problems and I am very worried about this. My car is a 2013 Ford Focus SE, I bought it used since I couldn't afford a new one, it has one hundred and eighty thousand miles. I appreciate that your video is subtitled in Spanish, it helps the Spanish-speaking Latino community. To write these letters I used a translator, thank you friend, thank you very much. Greetings from Lehigh Acres in Florida.
Hey man! i’ve actually rebuilt the transmission in these cars. I’m not saying this to stress you out, but at 180k, it’s ready to go. Everything with this cars transmission is flawed. Fundamentally. You need to sell this car before you start having a fork get stuck, or a rear seal start leaking. Please buy a honda. These cars suck, and my fiesta (uses the same transmission) brought me to the lowest point of my life.
What were you drinking?
@@loganpennington9104no point in rebuilding at 180k?
@@greatness7822 Depends on the state of everything else in the car. If the engines perfect, and the suspensions fine, it may be. But if you’re paying someone else to do it and it’s more than 2,000, probably not. This cars transmission sucks and is bound to fail again
2012 Ford focus s 2.0 , 64,000 miles
Error Codes
P0903 clutch A actuator circuit high
U3003-17 high battery voltage
U0100-00 ?
U0101-00 ?
Idles Rough , No Forward , has Reverse , sometimes Forward after 2 or 3 minutes .
Disconnected the Battery for 30 minutes , Reconnected Battery . Now Idles Great , Easily Shifts into Forward and Reverse and Drives Great . Thank You Jesus !
your da man great detailed video not even on my ase seminars they do it so good
Thank you! Worked great for my 2014 Ford Focus!
good evening. I would like to thank you for this video it helped me a lot. God bless you
FIXED!!!!! Bro, thank you so much!!!!!! Fixed my car last night. Didn't have the tool, so I used a skinny slot flat head bit from my gun kit. As suggested, I used brake cleaner & WD 40. Didn't want to break the flat head bit, so I hand rotated & released for bout 30 mins. Skipped the OBD b/c don't have a scanner. Anyway, my Focus starts right away, no delayed 1st gear engagement, and no shuddering. Thank you, thank you, and thank you.
Nice! Good work 👍
Is it still working ?
@@Dorightby yes
@@L8R-HP where are you located brotha? How much would you charge to take transmission apart and clean it
@@Dorightby Yes, like a brand new car.
Very nice explanation and information, blessings
Very helpful for my Ford Focus 2015. also, Automatic transmisson . thank you !
Appreciate you for this one. You saved me some money.
Thanx for the video. This help me diagnose a failed actuator. Did the swap to test and was able to flip the non working gears. I'm back to running normal and getting bad shutter on the 1-2 shift which leads me to think the forks are dirty. Gonna try and clean them next. Thx again!!
Nice info helped me out i turned the fork 14 times by hand. Got tired at 12 or 13 and it spun back lol. I heard a click noise at the end. What does the clicking noise mean?? Anyways I drove it 12 miles in town and on a mike stretch of highway where I can floor it up to 90. I think it’s retraining it but the shifting is a little better since I drive it vs the beginning. The transmission light came on 5 miles into it. Shut car off turned back on and tried reverse i was able to reverse around some cars, trailer back to where I parked it. Moved it back and forth took my foot off pedal and it was going.
Guy, your video is very helpful. Thank you. I'm hoping somene helps me to just clean the actuators as I can't go underneath my car without the lift.
I got this problem in NC in my way back to New York. Sadly the people just state that is the transmission as you said without the proper disgnosis. It takes 3 days to get the diagnosis over here and i just need to go back.
But you are amazing in your process and explanation!
Awesome video !! May need to have my mechanic try this !! Thank you !!!
Thank You!!! This worked for me. I made a tool out of an old motor I took out. Thanks for sharing.
Did u get the oem actuator or the aftermarket one?
I presiate for all ..
like a good Mexican 🇲🇽 thank you
Great information and video. What diag tool are you using. I am planning to use ForScan.
Thanks so much 🤠you're very smart
🔧🔧🛠🛠🛠🛠
Man your video definitely helped me make a decision to purchase or not! 🙂
Don't save yourself all this hassle
not sure what the brake cleaner on my face and camera were for but it worked like a charm! thanks bud!
He was making a joke seriously you didn't catch on that....like how old are you?? Did your family every make a joke about something??
@@curtisbaskin6097 lmao like for real smh dull dude
@@curtisbaskin6097 imma give benefit of the doubt and say they’re being sarcastic?😅
Great video! Thank you!
Fantastic job you explain it in a real understandable language. You are awesome. Do you ever work on a kia
Great video. Thank you for making it!
Man idk what kinda magic this is but it works!!
I had code P07A3 friction element A stuck on. Mines a 2012 so no warranty no way im going to the dealer.
It would shudder, buck like a horse and skip gears. Tuned that spline thing and it wouldnt spring back.
I did your little method turning with an impact, cleaning and spraying wd40 and lithium grease and then it finally turned smoothly by itself. Did it some more to make sure that thing wont get stuck.
Cars running smoother than its ever ran before. I'd rather keep doing this every couple of months rather than paying to have the clutch changed. Its not worth it.
👍🤩
Thanks for the video! I learned allot!!
Been having trouble with the forward gears for years and finally forward and reverse gave up even after a trans rebuild in 2017. Found your video and followed the steps forward forks done first then reverse with no issues. Did forward forks once more and out came a small looking washer. Forward forks didnt feel good to start with but loosened up. To say the least they were pretty far gone! If I bring you the car can you replace the forks and clutch assembly? Thanks!
It works.
Focus 2014 SE 110.000 KM.
I just did the B actuator and it kicked in with no errors after driving kinda 30 km.The "reset tool" I used carefully was an Allen key with a rounded head 1/4.Hex the same size does the job too.But it needs to be hold firm while turning and all by hand .It took me half an hour.I didn't even spray that much like here but I'm going to do it again more consistent when I'll open the other actuator these days.
Then I erased all codes with the ODBlink dongle.
''P07A4, Transmission Friction Element B Performance/Stuck Off''.
''P2701-00 Transmission Friction Element B Apply Time Range/Performance
It runs reverse too with slightly occasional shuddering.
At least I can have some more spare time to have a cheaper quote to replace the clutches and eventual forks and clean the build up black powder from the old clutches.
Did u get the oem or the aftermarket?
hey btw actuator A controls gears 1, 3, 5 and B controls R,2,4,6 not just R. they work in parallel to come in when the other clutch disengages with minimal power loss, its how its so fuel efficient. :)
Ether way. Clean both forks 🤩
It's failure rate is 100 percent
@@jackdaniels2657 yes, if you suck at driving 😂
@@L8R-HP it's junk regardless I'm telling u as transmission mechanic these transmissions suck like why have a manual transmission but yet operate automatically it makes no sense. U might as well have an automatic but those are junk too. They just need to leave manual transmissions alone. Even os semi trucks the eaton transmissions work similarly to these being that it's electronic manual it honestly sucks. These ones have the problems with the release bearings they go bad frequently and the forks are always getting debris on the rollers causing a binding kinda like this guy just explained ND the clutches on these transmissions are a pain in the but to replace because u can't just change the clutch. Nope u need to change clutch clutch bearing both release forks both electric actuators ND then the procedure is an even more pain in the ass. The way he's turning it counter clockwise 14 times on both release forks then once u get it in the car before u bolt up the clutch to flywheel u gotta rotate engine 5 times to center the clutch to the flywheel then to tighten the 6 13mm clutch nuts to the flywheel u gotta install a nut on every other stud cus it can ruin alignment if u don't. It takes 9 hours roughly if u had the right tools when compared fully manual transmissions that Ford focus has in same year, only takes 6 hours to do a job no special tools required in and out. Just imagine the cost for all listed parts above then u see why fully manual is better simpler affordable more efficent far more reliable and far less headache
@@jackdaniels2657 agreed, manuals are the way to go. But these transmissions actually don’t fail. The TCM does, actuators do. And forks get stuck. It takes me 3 hours to remove trans and clean and reinstall. Easy process and fast. I do this all day everyday.
Hey man! First of all, thanks for explaining this procedure in such a straight forward way. Point of inquiry: what kind of scanner are you using? It seems that mine doesn’t read transmission codes. I have an Otofix D1 Lite…
My mom has this car, and yes it does have this issue. She took it to a mechanic and i bought parts to replace the actuators, but the brobkem still exists. Im traveling back home this month, and I will perform the procedures you did in hopes of alleviating the issues. Thank you in advance, because i thought i needed to get her a new transmission!.
Have you done this yet ? results ?
i just bought a ford focus st for 600$ with only 125k miles on it i plan on using it on turo as an income generator. It has transmission problems so imma try this thank you
Focus st is 6spd manual
Wow! I have a 2016 and I'm scheduled at the ford dealer to fix this Friday. I know they're going to try to charge me for like the whole transmission. I need those tools. Thank you for sharing
I have the same problems with my 2017
How did the repairs go at the Ford Dealership?
@@MikesVlogss you won't believe this, ford still has it. They gave us a rental car. For a $35 part they're charging us $800 for part and labor
What part did they end up fixing? I have a 2016
@@meegansmith2155 i think it's called the actuator B
Thank you , going to try this tomorrow on my sons car . Wish us luck!
Good luck! Hope it helps
How did the cleaning go on the Ford? I have a 2014 Focus that doesnt have 1st gear, and has a hard time upshifting from 2nd to 3rd gear :(
@@MikesVlogss this will help. Your fork is sticking
Battery died got a jump and the car wouldn't drive at all reverse or drive, did the transmission valve resets with my launch scan tool and it worked perfectly these new cars are dumb. Thank you your video helped alot 😂😂
Low or dead battery can kill the TCM 😣
Yo! Thank you for the video.
I'm preparing to do this work on my 2014 Ford Focus se. Lately, after 20 min of driving or so, my check engine light will come on, I'll lose Reverse and switching gears from 1-2 and 2-3 are really rough.
I've seen on other videos that you can and maybe should (?) clean the forks with Brake cleaner and lubricate with WD-40, I also purchased 2 new actuators just to cover all my bases.
My question to you is, do I need some fancy diagnostic tool to do this job? Or can I get by just cleaning the forks, replacing the actuators, and restarting the car? If I need some sort of Diagnostic tool, what capabilities must it have? I just ordered a FORScan tool, will I be able to do what is necessary with FORScan?
Any help would be so greatly appreciated man. Thanks!
Curious to know how this turned out for you
hey I’m having those same issues. were you also getting “transmission hot” issues but it would be fine after a few minutes? Thanks, if you read this
@@mads416 Hey mads, no, fortunately for me I didn't have that issue, but I haven't fixed my issue yet either. It still jerks and shudders often but the worst of it has yet to come. It seems that the issue is especially apparent when it gets hot, like 80F+, and we haven't really had that where I'm at yet. The worst includes stalling completely (car does not get into gear) or losing reverse for 20 min at a time.
Hope we figure it out. Ford should have a Class Action filed against them.
@@CattyWompus. Hi Catty, I haven't fixed it yet but my car still runs and jerks at every stop sign! lol
Thanks for this informative video! My ford focus dont have reverse. And moving forward slowly. Will bring it to dealership tomorrow hope I make it. Let me also mention that Ford has 10 year extended warranty on ford focus in regards with transmission problem. Check it with them too..
Good to know mine is a 2017 with only 14,000 miles on it. Not sure what happened but car is in limp mode and reverse acts like neutral. I did pay for extended warranty so it should be covered. Can’t believe I’m having this kind of issue with hardly any miles.
Did you find out what’s wrong with yours yet? You can get by limp mode by manually shifting L gear to D at around 3500 rpm and still go 45mph on the side roads to dealer. You’re skipping 2nd gear that’s why the limp mode from take off. Mine had some physical damage internally waiting to find out exact issue. It is likely the casing has a sheared stop for the B fork side of TCM so fork isn’t being engaged at all. Explains the clunk I heard when driving forward after a battery change.
@@IamDaytrader its the transmission. I was told that i need to wait 6 to 8 months for the part…. I dont need to pay anything for the part because it is gonna be paid by ford but I decided to sell it to the dealership for 4500$…. It had 64k mikes on it. I regretted selling for that price but oh well, Ive done it already… :(
@@marissa8429 what year was yours and how many miles
Hello sir how are you I am Mohammad Nadeem this is your very helpful video I like very much
Wish I would’ve seen this yesterday lol just replaced a set for a friend
Do you think is a good idea to put a vacuum hose in the hole to remove some dust from transmission housing before spraying brake cleaner.. I don’t have any problem yet, just thinking to do it as a preventive maintenance
Worth a try
Got code P07A3, friction A stuck on, did this to both A+B, (A was real bad), IAC code went away, reset light, done, drives awesome now 👍
Yes, I have driven close to 100 miles since fixing this two days ago, just perfect !! Driveability/Smoothness/MPG is best I had in months, probably do this at every other oil change, may take extra 15-20 minutes, saves/extends your clutch life. Besides this issue at 82,600 miles, car is perfect, 2018 Focus. 😎 Very appreciative of this video/info 🙏
Process helps alot
@@allenhumphreys2586 was the gears slipping on you because I got the same car and code also? Did doing that fix the issue?
@@murderblock8194 Yes, it was basically disabling clutch A and related speeds/gears, only clutch B gears, 2,4,6,reverse would work, of course all related jerking, etc. was present, I did install new A+B motors about 9 days ago, just in case, got Chinese ones on evilbay, repeated clean + lube before install, etc. At almost 1k miles, it's working very good and avg mpg is up.
Allen Humphreys h
Awesome sauce, thanks for the video 😀
Which OBD tool are you using?
My car is running like new now, thank you
Mi hermano saludos desde Colombia gracias dios te bendiga fue muy útil tu ayuda
I used lithium grease on mine. One other thing I did (saw it on another video) was to drill two 1/4 inch holes in the case. One adjacent to actuator B, and the other at the bottom of the case. Bent the straw on the brake cleaner can at a 45 degree angle and used the hole to wash down the mechanism inside the case with the hole in the bottom used for drainage. It's dry in there so it's not going to hurt anything.
I then took the blower gun and blew an insane amount of clutch dust out of the case through the actuator hole.. Washed it down again with brake clean again and then lubed it all. It's crazy because it's a 2017 with only 66k on it. If you're missing the splash shield and/or are otherwise worried about stuff getting in through the holes, a rubber plug or a dab of silicone will easily seal it up.
For the comment that said he drilled two holes in the case I would love to see picture of where the holes exactly are the sounds like a good idea
@@kenbaker1353 This is where I found out how to do it. Figured it was worth a shot! Starts around the 1:30 mark.
ruclips.net/video/CoU1QGn_9gc/видео.html
Not to mention the wear aid of the metal shavings left behind.
Thanks good to know... the TCM seems to be going in my son's 2015 ford fiesta but i will give this a try considering it will only take about 20 mins or so... What scan tool are you using? the engine light is on but my cheap obd scanner says there's no stored codes? may have to go to the salvage yard and pick up a used TCM but I think once changed they have to be programed... I think with a scan tool that can be done but at this point I am not certain.. only started messing up last night and i havent had much time to research it.
Stumbled apon your channel. Love it! Lol. Keep up the great work. What scan tool are you using, I have a very basic scanner and im kinda limited to what i can see.
I use a launch 431 mini. But cheapest way to go is forscan
You may run into a problem with the seal swelling and locking things up. WD40 and CRC equivalent cause rubber components to swell a lot!! Should be mentioned on the cans. Please keep this in mind when using these two sprays. Thanks for the video. Much appreciated
Nothing to swell up in there
@@L8R-HP is it still running?
@@L8R-HP резиновый пыльник на вилках
Ford TSB for shuddering should keep the severe shudder at bay for a while. We've had a 2012 focus dct in our family for years and from 70k miles til the 230k it's got now, doing the TSB has 'scrubbed' the clutches enough to deglaze them. However, if you're getting codes, always check them first, if no codes and just shuddering look up the TSB and run from a dead stop through the first four gears at an aggressive pace a few times (3-4) all at once. Our focus is bucking mad today, shifting causes rev jumps and feels like slipping in the first clutch and finally threw codes so now I get to diagnose from there. Most like the forks at this point (230k miles). Clutches lasted this long, which is impressive so if you have less miles and just the shudder in 1st-2nd, do the TSB and see if that helps. This video is another good idea to increase some life in your lemon car.
what do you mean by TSB?
Technical Service Bulletin
what do u mean by do the TSB?
TSB Number?
That would assist many people researching this issue.
@@whill7828 ruclips.net/video/msA0p87O2y4/видео.html
Here's a video that explains it all in great detail by an actual Ford Technician.
Excellent video! I have a question: can I do the entire cleaning process without using the scan tool?
Excelente video! tengo una pregunta: puedo realizar todo el proceso de limpieza sin utilizar la herramienta de escaneo?
Very well done. Working on my friends now so I will try that. Thank you.
Be careful, don’t use a power tool, better to do it by hand so you can feel it.
How did this work for you on your friend's car?
Update ?
@@enriquebarrios7015 I have a very happy friend (good thing, she is the cook where I work). Had to do it 5 times but it runs perfect now.
Good job. Glad I still drive my Volvo 240 with 320K miles, so simple and easy. Cheers.
Thank you for making these videos. I have a 2105 focus and had no idea about any of these fixes. I cleaned both A and B as described, but when I started up the car, I no longer had reverse or drive. It shows its in Drive but doesn't move and RPMs don't go over 1200. Do I need to do the relearn before it will work?
What happened you solved the problem?
I’m having the same problem and I only have 90k Miles
You are the best
Thank you very much
God bless you man thanks
When you're working it with the impact are you going in forward and reverse?
Just reverse. It should go back forward by itself if working properly
My question is what effect will all the fluid have on the clutch in the long run??
Don’t put too much and it won’t be an issues. There’s so much heat in there it will dry right up
@@L8R-HP thanks for getting back to me. I definitely need to do this.
Thank for the video!
what obd2 do you use??, thank you very much for the great video keep it up.
Used a Launch 431 in this video
Thanks for the content it has been a lot of help. I bought a 2012 focus for $200 it had a lot of trash in it when cleaning it out I disconnected the battery and removed the seats. After putting them back in I have code B0090 left front restraints sensor : circuit short to ground. I have inspected the connections it looks good and swapped the left and right front crash sensors to see if the code would change. Do you have any advice ?
Did you check the driver side seat belt connectors?
Did he?
@@tirewacom 😆 Aaron is programmed to not reply
Yes
yeah find the pinched wire code tells you short to ground
Good video, I used a used part and took it apart to make a tool. Long story short, the bottom fork wound up all the way and then unwound itself all the way. A actuator DID NOT spin back all the way, it would spin about 4 spins and stop. Does that mean the fork is bad? I'm not a very mechanical person but it definitely didn't spin back freely like B actuator did. I tried spraying it multiple times and using plenty of WD-40 and it still didn't spin free all the way back. It also looked off center and made a clicking sound at about the last 6 turns. Would I need to take this transmission apart?
That fork needs to be replaced :/
@@L8R-HP Thank you man for your response. That's what I was thinking too.
@@L8R-HP do you have any recommendations for ordering a new clutch and fingers from? I looked at rock auto but didn't see anything. Who's got solid replacement parts? I'm probably going to completely rebuild the dry side. 100K miles on her.
@@ryans4401 ford OEM parts if you want it to last. eBay, just make sure they are OEM ford
Top man thanks for this respect
Thanks for your help
Impact-Driver has small battery which prevents damage. Drill should have a smalll battery too or go slow. Be very carefull. Apply extra fluid to help clean. Have patience. Good Luck
This is EXACTLY whats going on with mine! This video is very easy to understand and helpful !!!
Yo THANK U
Quick question... If it does go backwards sometimes... This means it just needs a clean for now, nothing is broken correct???
Correct
@@L8R-HP Awsome
U are the man
Thank you !
This is actually the 3rd Ford Focus that I've owned. I like them because they are economical, drive and perform pretty well, and I have NEVER had a problem. Until Now... (2018 Focus 4Cyl SE Sedan) Wife's car started acting weird, not accelerating. I thought it was fuel system. Did some work on that. But now it's way worse. It started making weird noises when you open the door. Like the Actuator keeps trying to reset and it can't. This goes on for a while. When the car is off, and parked for hours - you can hear the engine making this noise, like gears moving. I couldn't find ANY info about strange noises coming from the engine while it's parked. Anyway, somehow stumbled onto this video and it has helped me understand. A LOT! THANK YOU!! I went ahead and cleaned and lubed the A actuator. Drove the car but it's still having problems shifting. I'm waiting on jack stands before I can tackle the B actuator. Really hoping that cleaning and lubing up both actuators will solve the problem. If not, at least I have a much better understanding of what's going on. Not sure what my next step will be if Cleaning and Lubing A & B don't solve the problem. Replace the Actuators?
I’ve heard of this before, I read that the repetitive sound is clutch forks engaging and disengaging. it’s usually only supposed to happen once when you unlock the car and open the door. The repetitive motion of the forks sounds like the TCM may not be communicating with the transmission correctly so try to run a diagnostic on it. You may be eligible for a free one at the Ford dealer if your car meets the mileage and age requirement for the warranty program.
what year is it?
@@greatness7822 SORRY! I forgot to put that in. Edited my post - added 2018 Focus SE
I have a couple questions regarding this procedure.
#1 when you are moving the shift forks in and out with the drill and bit combo, Does the Clutch Fork "spring back" to its original setting?
#2 When installing new actuators (Motorcraft) are they factory set? In other words, plug an play? Doesn't matter how the new acctulaor is " splined" / installed on the clutch forks?
Thanks,
I can’t believe the timing of this vid. I’ve had many many issues with my exact same 2014 Black Ford Focus SE and the reverse is now going out every day (really acts up as the weather gets warmer). I’m really hoping that I can see similar results after trying this out.
Crazy @corbin slaymaker! I'm having the EXACT issue as of yesterday again...Haven't had an issue for about 1.5 years with the 2016 Ford Focus SE...
@@iiNinjaDefuseHD welcome to the club man been dealing with issues for years but it’s starting to get scary. Stalling in front of oncoming traffic when trying to cross highways, in rush hour and clutch won’t engage in any gear for 10 seconds, revers goes out completely and I have to have my passengers push. This car is a death trap. Hopefully this fixes it or at least remedies it enough to sell the damn thing.
Same here anyone know the name of the tool he used
@@corbinslaymaker3346 Ford should replace the module there was a settlement
@@thegribblereport8383 mines a salvage title :D
My focus is slipping slightly in first, so I will test this fix out. I think I will get an extra actuator from the junkyard and cut off the splined part to make my own tool.
Low key smart..
did it work?
@@2511jeremy I have not done it. the transmission is performing fine as is currently
🎉A+++ Thank you so much for this video. I’ve had a problem for a few months that I fixed in a few minutes thanks to you. Much appreciation Amigo.
Thanks for Guidance sir
Did this and seems to have solved issue. Will keep posted
To sub the tool I used a flat head bit and went slow with the drill.
For the actuator I used a square bit. Worked fine 👍
Thank you, saved me alot of money.
Keep them coming
Is it still working fine?
Trying it tonight, fingers crossed!
P2837 Shift fork B Position circuit.
They work? I have the code P287A
@@3724david Negative. Focus was scrapped a couple months ago. Never got reverse to work again
@@3724davidany update on your car? I have that code as well.
Thanks For the video. I have a 2018 s fosus. I'm getting a p2875r code on it. I have no reverse. It won't stay in forward gears. I took it to a body shoP due to a rear end collision. When I went to pick it up the battery was dead and the transmission was out of it. They tried to relearn the computer but didn't work. I'm told it may be the tcm. Of course I can't get one for months. I've seen the p2875 can mean inside damage. Can you tell me anything that I might try. Cars got 38k on it.
Terrific! Thanks. I'd do the same, but what about using compressed air, along with the Brake Cleaner?
Worth a try
A is for gears 1 3 5. B is for 2 4 6 R
Correct
Awesome video! I have a few questions:
My 2012 Focus is stuck in 2nd gear (I think), and is unable to shift into Reverse. It can get into neutral (I go to N and can rev the engine with no movement), but in R it does the same thing - engine revs, no movement. Going into D and tapping the gas shoots me forward like it's in 2nd gear. I have codes P2837, P2862, and P287B. I recently replaced both Clutch Actuators A and B but did not know about this cleaning/lubing process.
- Does this sound like something that will be fixed by cleaning/lubing clutch actuators as shown in this video, or do I need a new TCM?
- If I install a TCM from eBay, does it need to be programmed by a scan tool like yours or can I just swap the TCM in with no software programming?
- Lastly, does just spraying some brake cleaner and WD40 without spinning the actuators do anything (I don't have that splined tool yet)? Thank you!
Always start with cheapest option. Lubing/ cleaning the forks would be first. You want to make sure they spin and go back as they should. That will give you a clue if the forks are still good. If you get a TCM use with same part # no reprogram needed. A relearn is recommended but if everything is working like it should it will relearn on its own after a good normal drive
@@L8R-HP Thank you! When you say the same part # TCM, do you mean AE8Z-7Z369-F can replace the earlier TCMs? Or do you mean if my car has an earlier rev TCM, that I need to replace it with that same revision? My TCM is original to 2012 so I highly doubt it is the -F revision, which is all that seems to be available on eBay. Thanks!
@@maxm50 so what was the results? Did u clean them?
@@dopessongs3635 Yeah, cleaned them but it didn't fix my problem unfortunately. Tried a TCM from eBay and it fried itself on day 2. Currently waiting for a real Ford TCM at the dealer.
@@maxm50 I took mine too the dealer months ago, after o replaced the actuators with aftermarket from Amazon. Car drove ok for a while, it felt like it fixed the problem after I drove around, then I took for a spin the same day it just revs up in 2 gear and 4th I believe. Won't go until I stop the car and manually shift it into park then first. It's like it won't engage back down into a gear until I put it into park to engage back into the 1st. The dealer said my tcm is good, I had it replaced a few yeaers ago. I'm almost tempted to try my original actuators to test to see if the aftermarket was bad. Maybe oem will work. Idk. I took it into ammcoo months back, and told me my fluid was dark and had metallic, it only has 135k on it
Thanks, I just Subscribed
Hello, greetings, friend, I’m doing the work for my Ford focus. But I have a problem at the top of the piece when the turn has no stop and does not return what can be done in that case? Thank you for your video, it’s very useful!!
That thing looks like it has a rear main seal or oil pan leak in the rear judging by all the grey RTV around the bellhousing. Being that it's a dry clutch, any oil on it will ruin it. Also the engine oil causes the rubber boots on the clutch release levers or "actuators" to swell, eventually tear, then allowing the dust in and causing premature failure. None of this applies to the automatic 1.0L Focus that comes with a 6F15 transmission.
No Oil leaks on this one. Not sure why someone put RTV, these transmissions aren’t that bad with proper maintenance. I deal with them all the time.
I know, I bought one for myself I had to fix and it's great, 160k miles on it and I'm sure I'll put another 160k on it lol. You will be surprised as some can be dry underneath but as soon as you split the transmission from the block, a quart or two of black clutch debris filled oil pours out. Usually you can tell if that's the case if the starter gear is wet or the rubber seal below it is swollen. Funny thing is some of them will have mild or no symptoms at all while this starts happening.
Great video on this. Question for you or the group; I have a 2013 Ford Focus, 146,000 miles that I just purchased; I have the dealership records on the car (helps to work for them :) ) - transmission was not worked on or replaced. When the car is cold it shifts perfectly; after about 20 minutes or so there can be some shuttering and uneven shifting between 1st and 2nd. Once in second - no problems. I am well aware of the reliability of these transmissions. I have done the adaptive learning on the TCM - it helped some. But I saw this video and wonder if one of the clutches may be gummed up a bit. So if my problem is only between 1st and 2nd - should I focus (no pun intended) on Actuator A or Actuator B?
If no codes, try this out
@@L8R-HP Oh I'm going to :) Parts are on order; I just wanted to know which Actuator I should work on; if the problem is in shifting between first and second gear - is it Actuator A causing the problem or Actuator B? I may eventually replace both - just wanted to know which one is more likely the culprit in this situation.
@@MRDavisFamily It would be B. But you can switch them around, they are the same. Just to see if it makes a difference in driving
@@L8R-HP Hi - So I picked up the CASOMAN 10 Piece Spline Tip Bit Socket Set you recommended in an earlier post - unfortunately none of the bits fit the shaft. Besides the ones I see on Ebay in the UK can you recommend any other source? I'd rather not spend $200 on that clutch kit as I won't be digging any deeper into the transmission than this. I cleaned B (without exercising the clutch) and I saw a small improvement; hoping the correct bit will get me the rest of the way. Thx.
I learned the tcm is recalled I just bought mine and can’t drive it because I’m having this problem but I thought let you know
Hello, I have codes P0805 and P2872. My 2012 Ford Focus has troubles going into drive. Shifting and jerking and all that. But only happens on occasion. It says “Clutch A Stuck Engaged.” Do you think I should clean the forks and change both actuators? Gonna order the parts now. And is there no other tool that I can use to lube the forks?? Thank you for your insight.
Hi, i asked you a question on other video and it helped me pretty good, i got a tranny from the junk yard cleaned the forks a little bit and it started driving pretty nice, after stepping ok it a little while testing it out, something snapped and now the car takes like 3 seconds to start on d and the code says that first gear not engaging