Hey I just did this on my 2016 LS460. Couldn’t have done it without your video. Great job. Pretty straightforward I had a major issue with the one you said was a PITA. That hinge you talked about kept getting stopped by a screw in the hood. I had to unloosen the screw and then the bracket could pivot all the way up. Other wise than that everything went as you showed. One thing. I was not able to use a ratchet (only on the bottom 14 mm. The main tool used was a box 14 mm and a simple 14 wrench. Thanks again buddy. FYI my control arm didn’t look that bad. One rip in the bushing but major play/looseness in the ball joint.
When you mentioned "pre-load" and that if you didn't do it the bushings could give out much earlier than they should, is that what you basically did when you put the rotor on a block to maintain that 16" distance from center of rotor to closest vertical fender point? In other words, you did the final tightening of the control arms and mounts and all those nuts to torque specifications when that distance was "loaded" at 16" simulating when the car is being driven. Not when the rotor and all the other suspension components are drooping down to 19" to 20" as you mentioned. And if someone did tighten down all those nuts when it is drooping down, that's when you could have the bushings fail much sooner?
@johnnyglexus5730 Thank you for replying I'm about to change mine since it's making tapping noise. The link in the description doesn't work anymore which brand do you recommend. Please Thank you!!!!
@@zaki0078 Thats too bad since the cost was great. SKP might be ok but first i heard of that brand. Mevotech would be good but cost is over double for those.
I would recommend for who going to replace upper or lower arm Don’t buy the cheap control arm it only last 1.5 years and the bushing not strong enough it make your brake suck when you head the brake and when you drive on the balance road it is ok but when you drive on the road not that balance the steering wheel will go another side because the bushing rubber to soft I recommend buy the oem pay one time but it last
Great video - saw where 2 of these arms failed at 1 year .Ideas on what aftermarket option might provide a longer lasting forward upper control arm ?? OEM replacements failed at 15K !!
go look at the lower control arms on this video at the .39 mark they are slid all the way forward. These uppers wont last as long as the last ones you took off unless you replace both lowers. Just a tip. I'm about to do mine.
@@davidwell686 It can be if like anything else is not maintained. But some of the parts you might need are available now 3rd party unlike before. Just do your homework l must have looked at 5 of them before i settled on mine. Almost to 200 k.
How did you measure the preloading? And how did you manage to raise the hub so that it was that height before torque the bolts? Curious how I’d be able to measure and make it work.
In my video i show all that. I measure the distance from the center of the wheel opening to the center hub than lifted the hub with disk on with a block of wood. Most people will raise the hub by a jack at the lower knuckle.
Is there really a difference between Ultra Power and Mevotech control arms? Other than price? Is the quality better on the more expensive Mevotech brand? Thanks!
The brake actuator is expensive. Find one probably best to get a new one but have a local repair shop put it in and make sure they have techstream to activate it. If you have Lexus do it probably cost 3k. The arms you can do yourself if you have the tools. Just buy aftermarket.
Any times on getting the castle nut off? I have one that won't budge. I've tried pb blaster and bc they are stripped some I most recently tried a 17mm extractor and it won't grab it. Any tips would be awesome.
Got it off without damaging anything! Replaced the bracket thought I pre loaded it right but I have a slight lean on the opposite side. Did I pre load wrong? Any suggestions?
@@robb3346 Did you replace both sides? Did you get it close to torque value? Might give it a bit to settle and balance out than watch over time for any ripping.
I only did one side. The dealer said only one bracket needed to be replaced. Maybe I didn't get it to torque value. Should I loosen then bring back up and tighten again?
@@johnnyglexus5730 I'm thinking about purchasing the ones you got from RockAuto then finding a press shop and somewhere to purchase new inserts to put in the old ones I take out so I can have them when the cheaper ones fail since I drive a lot. Although the only ones bad right now are the bottom front lower rearward arms, so I will order the Moog replacements for those today. How many miles have you put on those since you replaced them in February?
Means you need to get the car to so called ride height before you tighten or torque them down. If you don't the weight of the car will twist the bushings and it will all fail in a year or so.
Hey I just did this on my 2016 LS460. Couldn’t have done it without your video. Great job. Pretty straightforward I had a major issue with the one you said was a PITA. That hinge you talked about kept getting stopped by a screw in the hood. I had to unloosen the screw and then the bracket could pivot all the way up. Other wise than that everything went as you showed. One thing. I was not able to use a ratchet (only on the bottom 14 mm. The main tool used was a box 14 mm and a simple 14 wrench. Thanks again buddy. FYI my control arm didn’t look that bad. One rip in the bushing but major play/looseness in the ball joint.
Your Welcome.
Excellent work my man! Exactly what I needed. Cheers!!
When you mentioned "pre-load" and that if you didn't do it the bushings could give out much earlier than they should, is that what you basically did when you put the rotor on a block to maintain that 16" distance from center of rotor to closest vertical fender point? In other words, you did the final tightening of the control arms and mounts and all those nuts to torque specifications when that distance was "loaded" at 16" simulating when the car is being driven. Not when the rotor and all the other suspension components are drooping down to 19" to 20" as you mentioned. And if someone did tighten down all those nuts when it is drooping down, that's when you could have the bushings fail much sooner?
That’s what I need to know I’m replacing mine in a few weeks
exactly, preload to make sure it's in "operating" height so the bushing isn't torqued tight against the wrong operating height
Yes. It is a good practice to preload to you don't over stress the bushings.
Thanks for sharing. How are the non-OEM control arms compared to the OEM's? I heard the OEM ones are very expensive.
Still doing well. OEM are $$$. Thx
Love your videos man Thank you
Quick question how long did it lasts?
Still going as of now. Don't see any real wear on them yet.
@johnnyglexus5730 Thank you for replying I'm about to change mine since it's making tapping noise. The link in the description doesn't work anymore which brand do you recommend. Please
Thank you!!!!
@@zaki0078 Thats too bad since the cost was great. SKP might be ok but first i heard of that brand. Mevotech would be good but cost is over double for those.
I would recommend for who going to replace upper or lower arm Don’t buy the cheap control arm it only last 1.5 years and the bushing not strong enough it make your brake suck when you head the brake and when you drive on the balance road it is ok but when you drive on the road not that balance the steering wheel will go another side because the bushing rubber to soft I recommend buy the oem pay one time but it last
I would buy OEM Lexus are $$$.
hi! Thanks for the video. BTW why didn't you just pull out the brackets with arms till installed on them?
Thanks. I did it that way the time before this video. I found time wise not much different.
Great video - saw where 2 of these arms failed at 1 year .Ideas on what aftermarket option might provide a longer lasting forward upper control arm ?? OEM replacements failed at 15K !!
I have tried 3 different ones and they all failed sooner or later. The front end is so heavy that it gives them a work out.
You can use 2012-2017 ls460 control arms on these cars, they’re revised and better
Did you have to do an alignment when you finished? And how long did those new upper control arms last?
Yes! From my experience Every Time I do control arms and check alignment is always out
go look at the lower control arms on this video at the .39 mark they are slid all the way forward. These uppers wont last as long as the last ones you took off unless you replace both lowers. Just a tip. I'm about to do mine.
So far so good. But my 2 lower front are shot. I replaced all the lowers about 4 years ago. I have to do those before spring.
Your suppose to remove the strut.
It makes the job much easier and slot faster👍
Yes. That is one way but i would rather not mess with taking them off. I have seen it done both ways.
Thank you !
Awesome 👌🏽
Hello
What does pre-loading them mean ?
Why would not pre-loading then cause premature failure?
How do u pre-load them ?
You want to get the car as close to ride height before you tighten down the arms. If not they can bind up and rip the bushings too early.
Watching some other LS460 owner saying it costs 4k to get these replaced. Seems not so difficult.
It can be $$$ if you take it to a dealer or almost any shop. The lowers are more a pain.
@@johnnyglexus5730 I got to think the LS460 is a potential money pit after reading a bit more about it. Great car till something breaks.
@@davidwell686 It can be if like anything else is not maintained. But some of the parts you might need are available now 3rd party unlike before. Just do your homework l must have looked at 5 of them before i settled on mine. Almost to 200 k.
How did you measure the preloading? And how did you manage to raise the hub so that it was that height before torque the bolts? Curious how I’d be able to measure and make it work.
In my video i show all that. I measure the distance from the center of the wheel opening to the center hub than lifted the hub with disk on with a block of wood. Most people will raise the hub by a jack at the lower knuckle.
I've heard Mevotech are good control arms when I need to replace mine 👍
Is there really a difference between Ultra Power and Mevotech control arms? Other than price? Is the quality better on the more expensive Mevotech brand? Thanks!
Not a whole bunch difference to me. It really depends on how good you get the preload done. Do it wrong and any brand will fail in a year.
@@johnnyglexus5730 Thank you, I will consider this when doing mine!
Can,and is there anyone who can press the old ones out and press oem bushings in.Need to know.Thanks.
I def see it twisting bc it torqued without putting a load on the suspension.
You can use a belt tensioner tool with a torque wrench when nuts are hard to access with a torque wrench alone.
Just a little trick I used.
Hmm. Thanks may do that trick soon.
U didn’t show how u got them out that would greatly help. Thanks.
Bought a really cheap 2007 LS 460l with 200k miles *highway miles* and it needs break actuators and control arms. Any advice?
The brake actuator is expensive. Find one probably best to get a new one but have a local repair shop put it in and make sure they have techstream to activate it. If you have Lexus do it probably cost 3k. The arms you can do yourself if you have the tools. Just buy aftermarket.
ROCK AUTO FOR ALL SUSPENSION PARTS
How's the ride since you did the install?
It helped with some noises and tightened up the steering some. Have to do the tie rod ends next.
@@johnnyglexus5730 thanks for the reply
Any times on getting the castle nut off? I have one that won't budge. I've tried pb blaster and bc they are stripped some I most recently tried a 17mm extractor and it won't grab it. Any tips would be awesome.
When i first did them. Only thing i could do was cut it off with a cutting wheel. If hitting the knuckle didn't pop it free.
@@johnnyglexus5730 Wow didn't want to have to do that and risk damaging the arm. If a pipe wrench doesn't work I may have to smh thanks!
Got it off without damaging anything! Replaced the bracket thought I pre loaded it right but I have a slight lean on the opposite side. Did I pre load wrong? Any suggestions?
@@robb3346 Did you replace both sides? Did you get it close to torque value? Might give it a bit to settle and balance out than watch over time for any ripping.
I only did one side. The dealer said only one bracket needed to be replaced. Maybe I didn't get it to torque value. Should I loosen then bring back up and tighten again?
How did they last for you
So far so good. I have to replace the front lower ones now. Those got put in back in 2017.
Can you someone help me find control arms for 09 ls 460? I’ve looked everywhere
How do the power pros hold up? Any update?
I did a update a couple weeks ago. 2 of them are not holding up.
how are the bushing holding up ? mine didnt even last a year
So far so good. I think any aftermarket ones will fail faster than OEM ones.
@@johnnyglexus5730 I'm thinking about purchasing the ones you got from RockAuto then finding a press shop and somewhere to purchase new inserts to put in the old ones I take out so I can have them when the cheaper ones fail since I drive a lot. Although the only ones bad right now are the bottom front lower rearward arms, so I will order the Moog replacements for those today. How many miles have you put on those since you replaced them in February?
@@ryannrjohnson think around 7-8K
Those arms look poor quality compared to Oem.
If you had dropped the struth just for room it would have been real ez you big dummy
🤣👍🌴🇵🇷
One way for sure. This way has been done by others before me.
What do you mean by preload ?
Means you need to get the car to so called ride height before you tighten or torque them down. If you don't the weight of the car will twist the bushings and it will all fail in a year or so.