Thanks a million. I could not have completed my install without your video. The only difference I slid the hoses off instead of removing the yellow plastic connectors. Just do not understand why they went to an electric pump high maintenance system.
Did you have to reset any lights after installing the actuator? I had one installed in my 07 LS460 a few days ago but my lights are still on. The actuator is very quiet but the lights haven’t gone off. Should I have a brake flush done by a professional shop?
hobotechMASTER It wasn’t really my number, it was a number I created online right before I sent that message. I do appreciate it though, I just deleted it
Would appreciate your help victor my mechanic has told be to change the accumalator and pump are they both and abs system the same thing as i am getting a abs system online on good price
Did you get the chance to test to see if it was just the pump? If it was making a cycled pump noise on an off. Sounds like a air pump for the air shocks. Then it’s a tell tell sign that the pump is going bad. I change the pump on my 2008 GS-460ABS. Didn’t have to replace the entire unit. Which BTW is $1100.00 US. Also the pump is a quick fix. Lastly I don’t know if it happened to this gentleman. However if you bust open your brakes system. Especially when like in this video removes the MASTER CYLINDER BOOSTER FLUID. It’s a guarantee that you will get oxygen and moisture in the system. The 2 SYSTEM KILLERS. You have no other choice but to first blow out the entire systems brake limes. We use nitrogen but airbus okay as long as it a dry air system. Then each line must be flushed with brake fluid and the button up. Then bled out until pedal is solid and fluid topped off. If you don’t, you will regret it at the point where you will need your brake to work. It is a time trap until it eats away the rubber and Teflon rings and then have a blow out of fluid and brake failure. This is why you don’t add brake fluid on rainy days or high humidity. The DOT fluid sucks moisture like a vacuum. Be careful. I have a video of my GS-460 ABS PUMP. It shows the tell tell signs of the pump needs to be replaced. It’s a few indicators that your pump is malfunctioning besides the hydroplaning under general braking situations on a wet surface. Or brake locking up on random tires at different braking scenarios. I am speaking about the nuisance alarm and the pumps cycling
Victor, how did the brake bleeding go? I had read on some forums that it required special software (Techstream) to complete the bleeding process so as not to get any errors? The mechanical part of changing out parts looks doable, just wondering how this ended after bleeding the system. Thanks in advance, and appreciate you posting this.
@@vjportillo unfortunately I'm having to do this job on my car. What do you mean by using gravity to activate the pump? Mine is an 06 GS430 so I don't know if techstream is an absolute must but if can bleed the air out without the computer I will try.
@@kyngfitness9270 if you have bleed brakes before that is what you do but do it lots till all the air is purged the pump will not run to have to purge it you can do this by filling the tank loosening the valve and punping the break gently hook a hose to the bleed line and collect the flued do not reuse it. eventually you can get to where you can pump( valve closed) then bleed the objective is to get fluid in the pump again.
Hi, can someone please help me with this issue. I have an issue on my 2011 ls460 AWD. I never heard this sound prior to replacing the whole brake actuator system last month at Lexus dealer cost me almost $3600 and now with new actuator on, it makes this awkward pumping sound everytime I step on the Brake pedal and it’s getting annoying. I went back to dealer 3 times and was told “it’s normal” why wasn’t that sound there the past 6 years I owned the car? I bought it with 22k miles on it and now I have 57k miles with a brand new actuator that makes a annoying pumping sound everytime I step on brake pedal? Can you help me figure this out or what’s causing it? Because I honestly think the dealer don’t know what they’re talking about! There’s no way they will convince me that it’s normal as if they know my car better than I do. It’s never made that sound since I’ve owned the car and now after getting brake actuator replaced it’s there! It’s just getting under my skin when you have a very quiet car that makes a loud pumping sound every time u brake!
I was having the same issue I took the car back and told them the brake lights was popping on and they gave me a loaner. It’s sad I had to say that because they kept saying everything was fine then i had to replace the stroke sensor.
@@vjportillo ok thankx. My original part number is 44510-50070 and i saw a replacement one with the same part number as yours. I was wondering if it would work
Great video but he is calling the actuator the accumulator.. He is replacing the actuator. If that helps anyone. It had me confused as I was using the video to help with my ls460
Thanks you are right; but it dose a lot of things actuator, modulator and accumulates the brake fluid in the aluminum housing that is why the Pump is so hard to prime, but with the Lexus program (Toyota) you can prime the pump by closing the switch on the screen, but that cost a lot of money or you can pump the shit out of the brake peddle and use a gallon of brake fluid. messy but a lot cheaper. thanks for the feed back you are correct.
Ok so they are one and the same? I found a Lexus service manual page saying how to check on the “accumulator”. I googled that word, image search, forum search, shopping search, and couldn’t find shit. So I guess the manual sometimes refers to the “actuator” as the “accumulator”. They are one and the same, no?
@@Bankable2790 the part he showed and that's like a silver block, is the actuator. The part that has the motor and that it's actually separate from the actuator, is the accumulator. The accumulator serves as a booster. When the motor goes bad in the accumulator, you get a low pressure signal and would normally get codes c1253 and c1256. And calling the parts by their actual names will avoid improper troubleshooting or replacing the wrong component.
@@victormontana3716 I actually was able to replace this part in the vehicle I forget what it was called now and what the whole issue was I was experiencing at the time I appreciate the reply though. I bought it online from a shop, installed it, then drove it to the dealership for them to use the computer to bleed the brake lines. Save like 1000 to 1500 bucks from what I recall
@@vjportillo that's what my car is telling me I'm driving it on manual brakes. I guess you just lucked out on replacing the right part. I was told its common for a wire to be broken and that not turning the pump on.
@@vjportillo my brake are working barely on manual brakes with the abs plugs disconnected from the vsc module. Wondering if it can be a simple wheel speed sensor
it was years ago call my lexus part. I think it was mylsparts.com but you will have to google it. I only replaced the Accumulator (actuator) it was 1200 just for the part.
Hi freind, I am working on a car (Lexus Hybrid 2010 ls600gl), Error showing in break light, error code is C1203, C1345, C1336, Kindly help me out, I am in trouble.
sorry as far as i know hybrid brakes are different. try use regenerative braking and are controlled by an algorithmic function that works with the electric motor? I think? Try doing a google search on the codes and go from there
Sorry first of all the sound got added after two weeks did not know. I will fix it. I got it from mylparts.com it is an on line lexus dealer. I think it was 1200.00
Did you get the chance to test to see if it was just the pump? If it was making a cycled pump noise on an off. Sounds like a air pump for the air shocks. Then it’s a tell tell sign that the pump is going bad. I change the pump on my 2008 GS-460ABS. Didn’t have to replace the entire unit. Which BTW is $1100.00 US. Also the pump is a quick fix. Lastly I don’t know if it happened to this gentleman. However if you bust open your brakes system. Especially when like in this video removes the MASTER CYLINDER BOOSTER FLUID. It’s a guarantee that you will get oxygen and moisture in the system. The 2 SYSTEM KILLERS. You have no other choice but to first blow out the entire systems brake limes. We use nitrogen but airbus okay as long as it a dry air system. Then each line must be flushed with brake fluid and the button up. Then bled out until pedal is solid and fluid topped off. If you don’t, you will regret it at the point where you will need your brake to work. It is a time trap until it eats away the rubber and Teflon rings and then have a blow out of fluid and brake failure. This is why you don’t add brake fluid on rainy days or high humidity. The DOT fluid sucks moisture like a vacuum. Be careful
Наука
Thank you for taking the time to do this Victor we all appreciate it!!!
Thank you victor you will be saving me a lot of time replacing actuator.
I appreciate your time showing us.
Thanks a million. I could not have completed my install without your video. The only difference I slid the hoses off instead of removing the yellow plastic connectors. Just do not understand why they went to an electric pump high maintenance system.
Thanks Victor !
"they staked it on top of each other like a big orgy".. I lost it there....
Hi Vic, why you replaced this module? Did you get DTC with scanner?
How hard is this job ? What did you replaced in all ? What was your symptoms?
Do you know how the leak exactly triggers this error code. I mean where is the sensor that detects the leak and where is the leak at. Thanks!
Goodday which codes did you have which guaranteed it was that Accumalator box? I got C1252 and C1256...
Where is the proportioning valve located on the 07 Ls 460?
Hello does anyone know if the new part has to be programmed?
Where’d you buy the brake actuator
Do you need to have Toyota tech stream to help you reset abs and bleed the brakes
Do you need any software to bleed the brake system
Victor what was the part number for the new actuator?
you need to get the part number from the dealer use your Vin
Tanks Vic. did u put new part
yes I say in the video where I got it.
Did you have to reset any lights after installing the actuator? I had one installed in my 07 LS460 a few days ago but my lights are still on. The actuator is very quiet but the lights haven’t gone off. Should I have a brake flush done by a professional shop?
yes you have to reset it
brake flush will not fix a bad actuator because the pressures drops internally.
@@immanueltaylor507 im not sure if you realize you put your phone number on a very public post
hobotechMASTER
It wasn’t really my number, it was a number I created online right before I sent that message. I do appreciate it though, I just deleted it
Did you installed a new one? I’m about to installed a used one I just bought for my ls460 , do you know if I have to program it
no programing
Would appreciate your help victor my mechanic has told be to change the accumalator and pump are they both and abs system the same thing as i am getting a abs system online on good price
Did you buy the pump and accumulator together
Do I need the pump as well as the acculator
Did you get the chance to test to see if it was just the pump? If it was making a cycled pump noise on an off. Sounds like a air pump for the air shocks. Then it’s a tell tell sign that the pump is going bad. I change the pump on my 2008 GS-460ABS. Didn’t have to replace the entire unit. Which BTW is
$1100.00 US. Also the pump is a quick fix. Lastly I don’t know if it happened to this gentleman. However if you bust open your brakes system. Especially when like in this video removes the MASTER CYLINDER BOOSTER FLUID. It’s a guarantee that you will get oxygen and moisture in the system. The 2 SYSTEM KILLERS. You have no other choice but to first blow out the entire systems brake limes. We use nitrogen but airbus okay as long as it a dry air system. Then each line must be flushed with brake fluid and the button up. Then bled out until pedal is solid and fluid topped off. If you don’t, you will regret it at the point where you will need your brake to work. It is a time trap until it eats away the rubber and Teflon rings and then have a blow out of fluid and brake failure. This is why you don’t add brake fluid on rainy days or high humidity. The DOT fluid sucks moisture like a vacuum. Be careful. I have a video of my GS-460 ABS PUMP. It shows the tell tell signs of the pump needs to be replaced. It’s a few indicators that your pump is malfunctioning besides the hydroplaning under general braking situations on a wet surface. Or brake locking up on random tires at different braking scenarios. I am speaking about the nuisance alarm and the pumps cycling
how do you replace just the pump?
how was the brake after install, and how much did it cost you?
it is all in the video it worked well was hard to bleed but braked normal when done. parts and fluid were about 1500.00
Victor, how did the brake bleeding go? I had read on some forums that it required special software (Techstream) to complete the bleeding process so as not to get any errors? The mechanical part of changing out parts looks doable, just wondering how this ended after bleeding the system. Thanks in advance, and appreciate you posting this.
It was a lot pumping the thing is you have to get the accumulator pump to activate i did this by applying gravity pressure while bleeding the brakes
@@vjportillo unfortunately I'm having to do this job on my car. What do you mean by using gravity to activate the pump? Mine is an 06 GS430 so I don't know if techstream is an absolute must but if can bleed the air out without the computer I will try.
@@kyngfitness9270 if you have bleed brakes before that is what you do but do it lots till all the air is purged the pump will not run to have to purge it you can do this by filling the tank loosening the valve and punping the break gently hook a hose to the bleed line and collect the flued do not reuse it. eventually you can get to where you can pump( valve closed) then bleed the objective is to get fluid in the pump again.
@@vjportillo thanks victor doing it now
@@kyngfitness9270 how’d it turn out?
Hi, can someone please help me with this issue. I have an issue on my 2011 ls460 AWD. I never heard this sound prior to replacing the whole brake actuator system last month at Lexus dealer cost me almost $3600 and now with new actuator on, it makes this awkward pumping sound everytime I step on the Brake pedal and it’s getting annoying. I went back to dealer 3 times and was told “it’s normal” why wasn’t that sound there the past 6 years I owned the car? I bought it with 22k miles on it and now I have 57k miles with a brand new actuator that makes a annoying pumping sound everytime I step on brake pedal? Can you help me figure this out or what’s causing it? Because I honestly think the dealer don’t know what they’re talking about! There’s no way they will convince me that it’s normal as if they know my car better than I do. It’s never made that sound since I’ve owned the car and now after getting brake actuator replaced it’s there! It’s just getting under my skin when you have a very quiet car that makes a loud pumping sound every time u brake!
I was having the same issue I took the car back and told them the brake lights was popping on and they gave me a loaner. It’s sad I had to say that because they kept saying everything was fine then i had to replace the stroke sensor.
take it another Lexus dealership it shouldn't make any noise when pressing on the brake
Hey I was wondering if the part you used is the new updated part number
at the time it was not now
@@vjportillo ok thankx. My original part number is 44510-50070 and i saw a replacement one with the same part number as yours. I was wondering if it would work
@@keonspeller3026 call myLparts.com and get conformation before you buy.
Great video but he is calling the actuator the accumulator.. He is replacing the actuator. If that helps anyone. It had me confused as I was using the video to help with my ls460
Thanks you are right; but it dose a lot of things actuator, modulator and accumulates the brake fluid in the aluminum housing that is why the Pump is so hard to prime, but with the Lexus program (Toyota) you can prime the pump by closing the switch on the screen, but that cost a lot of money or you can pump the shit out of the brake peddle and use a gallon of brake fluid. messy but a lot cheaper. thanks for the feed back you are correct.
Ok so they are one and the same? I found a Lexus service manual page saying how to check on the “accumulator”. I googled that word, image search, forum search, shopping search, and couldn’t find shit. So I guess the manual sometimes refers to the “actuator” as the “accumulator”. They are one and the same, no?
@@Bankable2790 the part he showed and that's like a silver block, is the actuator. The part that has the motor and that it's actually separate from the actuator, is the accumulator. The accumulator serves as a booster. When the motor goes bad in the accumulator, you get a low pressure signal and would normally get codes c1253 and c1256. And calling the parts by their actual names will avoid improper troubleshooting or replacing the wrong component.
@@victormontana3716 I actually was able to replace this part in the vehicle I forget what it was called now and what the whole issue was I was experiencing at the time I appreciate the reply though. I bought it online from a shop, installed it, then drove it to the dealership for them to use the computer to bleed the brake lines. Save like 1000 to 1500 bucks from what I recall
Did you have to change the brake pump?
no
How did you know it was the accumulator? What did your codes read?
that was a long time ago think i talk about it in the video. but the brakes were very hard and the warning on the screen said to take to dealer.
@@vjportillo that's what my car is telling me I'm driving it on manual brakes. I guess you just lucked out on replacing the right part. I was told its common for a wire to be broken and that not turning the pump on.
@@vjportillo my brake are working barely on manual brakes with the abs plugs disconnected from the vsc module. Wondering if it can be a simple wheel speed sensor
@@vjportillo How did you de pressurize the unit?
take it to someone with a meter it will cost you 150 at most but you will know what it is.
How much it cost you to buy ABS system
it was years ago call my lexus part. I think it was mylsparts.com but you will have to google it. I only replaced the Accumulator (actuator) it was 1200 just for the part.
Hi freind,
I am working on a car (Lexus Hybrid 2010 ls600gl), Error showing in break light, error code is C1203, C1345, C1336,
Kindly help me out, I am in trouble.
sorry as far as i know hybrid brakes are different. try use regenerative braking and are controlled by an algorithmic function that works with the electric motor? I think? Try doing a google search on the codes and go from there
ruclips.net/video/0b2i5ufN7k0/видео.html
Does anyone know if a 2011 unit will work on a 2008
Yes
Hi. Thanks for sharing. How much does the abs system cost?
Sorry first of all the sound got added after two weeks did not know. I will fix it. I got it from mylparts.com it is an on line lexus dealer. I think it was 1200.00
@@vjportillo thanks a lot victor. My mechanic is charging me over $2000 for it.
Victor Portillo what was the reason why you change the part ?
@@sanchezfanning334 sorry i said in the title was getting an error to stop car and get off the road and park it.
AISIN really fucked up on this design I have seen many Mitsubishi's and Lexus's suffer from the same problem
I bleed my 460 without a electronic tool
Did you get the chance to test to see if it was just the pump? If it was making a cycled pump noise on an off. Sounds like a air pump for the air shocks. Then it’s a tell tell sign that the pump is going bad. I change the pump on my 2008 GS-460ABS. Didn’t have to replace the entire unit. Which BTW is
$1100.00 US. Also the pump is a quick fix. Lastly I don’t know if it happened to this gentleman. However if you bust open your brakes system. Especially when like in this video removes the MASTER CYLINDER BOOSTER FLUID. It’s a guarantee that you will get oxygen and moisture in the system. The 2 SYSTEM KILLERS. You have no other choice but to first blow out the entire systems brake limes. We use nitrogen but airbus okay as long as it a dry air system. Then each line must be flushed with brake fluid and the button up. Then bled out until pedal is solid and fluid topped off. If you don’t, you will regret it at the point where you will need your brake to work. It is a time trap until it eats away the rubber and Teflon rings and then have a blow out of fluid and brake failure. This is why you don’t add brake fluid on rainy days or high humidity. The DOT fluid sucks moisture like a vacuum. Be careful