THE HOW TO REMOVE UP PIPES ON 7.3 HOW TO HANDLE PROBLEM BOLTS BROKEN BOLTS AND INSTALL NEW #uppipe #powerstroke #whitesmoke #7.3powerstroke #7.3 #powerstrokediesel
It’s a ton different with that cab off than reaching around the turbo blindly trying to get that clamp on and off. Probably one of the hardest things I’ve done building motors. Not to mention the confined space. It looks like a piece of cake from the rear & nothing in your way above, plus you can see what your doing. Thanks
For real so hard. We did it and we are restaurateurs not mechanics. Scared us from doing stuff for a bit. But alas we are broke down again and about to tackle something else.
Absolutely LOVE the Die Grinder Hammer used to get the clamp off 😅😂😅😂. I do the same sort of stuff. Use what you have that's within arms length vs. Climbing out from what your working on and trying to find one of the 20 dam hammers you have somewhere, and a few cuss words while your searching. Time is so very precious as well as its money! The farting around comment? 😂😂😂😂😂❤❤❤😂😂 love it and you speak my language sir. 👍 Love love the no bullshit, realism of all your videos, and Content that us little guys/folks can understand... thanks for doing what you do.
Patients is key. I'm hearing lifting the cab a bit will also help ease the fight. Great video that shows the actual fitment. Now I can visualize it in my mind when replacing... thanks Man.
My 94 has an annoying knock that gets louder as it warms up then sounds like a rod knock. I’m positive this is my knock. Only started after I had my pedestal o-rings done.
I know you are doing the open air engine as a visual aid to the replacement. However, doing the replacement without removing the tranny or the fender well skirts is grossly more than this. I fought with the 4 bottom bolts for hours. First, my 13 mm socket was stripping the nut. My 1/2 inch socket actually fit tighter. Putting a wrench on the top side of the bolt was difficult (understatement). I found a 1/4” drive 10 mm wobble head worked. I’ve been on this planet almost 7 decades so I tried to think of this as a stretching/conditioning workout! That didn’t eliminate the profanities though. Lastly I went back up top and simply pulled the Y Diverter off without touching a bolt. The donut had disintegrated to the point where there was nothing at all holding the pipes. For a DIYer like me, knowing what to do is often times not as important as knowing how to do it and which tools can and should be used. Now for the interesting part. Reassembly can take a variety of paths. I’ve watched a bunch of videos and they are all different. My theory is to attach the Y Diverter to the turbo before putting the up pipes on so I can get the V Clamp on properly without the headaches most seem to experience. Then the headache will be connecting the top of the up pipes. Is this possible? I know…old video. Not expecting a response.
Man i would love to have my 7.3 engine out like that , it would jut be so easy to do every upgrade . i would do a fuel bowl delete first , then dieselsite adrenaline hpop , hpop oil line crossover, put some nice looking valve covers , that fuel pressure guage would be nice too. Any way another good video, i dont need to watch anybody elses videos your always do the trick .ohh and also id definitly put on a gtp38 ball bearing turbo , much bettter that bushing they use in the factory turbo.
Let me start by saying that I appreciate your videos, very useful to me! Now for the question... I just replaced my up-pipes and on my test drive I noticed about 4 psi less boost. What's the best way to test for leaks on the up-pipes? I've seen the boost leak detectors that use an air compressor but from what I can tell, they only test the intercooler side of the turbo. Thanks for any info!
I tried swapping out my up pipes whilst the trans was out for rebuild and neither me nor the mechanic could get the Vband clamp off the turbo. It was right up against the firewall. We tried tilting the motor but that didn’t help. The turbo is newer so I’m wondering if whomever installed it put the Vband straight up rather than clocked to the drivers side a bit to aid in future removal. I guess turbo has to come out to do the job
Thank you. I'm new with this early low mile 99 And have been watching all your vids..like most people I've watched tons of videos on this engine. And I follow your practices. You've helped me to understand this little monster tremendously. I'm keeping it pretty much stock with only a few modifications. Just finished exhaust. Not going to roll smoke with it. Just want a little bump. Any suggestions on how to bump it mabe 75-100 more ponys would be awesome.
I just did my up pipes a year ago. I didn't realize there was a heat shield that goes on them as the ones I took off didn't have any. Put about 20k miles on the rig and no problems so far. What problems might arise if I continue to drive it like this? Should I go ahead and get some sheilds?
The heat shields that where on yours where removed because the banding failed which is normal But the shields where there to protect from premature failure of the O rings on the oil Galley plugs, Banjo bolts for fuel and the fuel line and from melting the aluminum spacer on automatic trans This for you is only a concern if you are monthly or weekly pulling a load where high EGT's are present. Normal driving and semi occasional towing would prove not much benefit to install new ones or wrap with cooling tape
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks, that's good to know. Truck rarely sees a trailer. Maybe once or twice a year just to haul off yard debris. I mainly use it as a daily commuter to get back and forth from work. All highway driving, no hot rodding.
We build our own in house we just buy the junctions But to answer I've seen economy and expensive kits I see no difference amzn.to/3OS107B these are a bargain
@@xxxmikeyjock was in a hurry but yes leave the turbo on // remove the old pipes in stall the new turbo manifold in take loose first then run the pipes up to it install those bolts loose just before snug then loosely install the uppipe to the exhaust manifold once again just before snug then tighten up the clamp on turbo then align the up pipe to the exhaust manifold run those down tight and last tighten the up pipe to turbo manifold last EASY on these bolts you can strip them very easily. in most directions it states to remove the turbo or engine that it is the only way to install new this is a very untrue statement and you will be throwing wrenches
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD okay almost done with the job, shutting down for the night. disassembly sucked as much as I expected. thankfully I had one of my labourers help me. I think you need longer arms then I have to get the manifold back on to the turbo. Scott is over 6foot and was able to just reach to get it in place, and we wedged a 2x4 we cutdown to hold it on while we fought with the band clamp. even then it was close to me saying 'thats it we are pulling the turbo'. just have to put pass uppipe in, snug everything up, put the inner fender on, and the wiring harness along the cowl to go back and it will be wrapped up. thank you for the video, we did refer to it again for reassembly, but a hint on a good way to get the band clamp on would be a nice addition to it
Items involved , The switch its self is usually the issue, Remove it,, the shifter and do a Continuity Test With a Multimeter , if good check the next wire in line for voltage P2P N2N then N2P P2n if one of the connections won't give voltage you need to find the broken wire or ground point, check fuses, relays , If all good check the computer for faults if good its a issue at the trans plug or internal trans issue
No Power Stroke OBD-II Code P1211 - “ICP Higher/Lower Than Desired” (7.3L) OBD-II Code P1211 from a 7.3 Liter Power Stroke is often caused by running “Hot Chips” or tunes that are demanding more ICP (Injection Control Pressure) than the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) can deliver and can be accompanied by a lack of power or rough running. For what it’s worth, these are the exact parameters that trigger this code: ICP 410psi Higher Than Desired for 7 Seconds ICP 280psi Lower Than Desired for 7 Seconds Code P1211 can also be caused by legitimate High Pressure Oil System issues. Below is a list of some of the causes: Failed or Sticking IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) Failed or Weak HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) Any Leak in High Pressure Oil System (o-ring, stuck injector, etc.) Low Fuel Pressure (Rare) P1280 / P1281 / P1283 - (7.3L) The above codes are related to ICP also. If the SES (Service Engine Soon) light is on and these codes are present, the ICP reading through any scantool will not be accurate as the PCM is using a “default” ICP value. These codes are all “electrical” in nature. Common causes are shorts between the Red and White IPR wires or between the Red IPR wire and ground. These can also sometimes indicate a PCM problem. Ford 7.3 Power Stroke diesel, code P1211, lacks power because of fuel restriction due to a failed fuel tank filters These codes are all “electrical” in nature. Common causes are shorts between the Red and White IPR wires or between the Red IPR wire and ground. These can also sometimes indicate a PCM problem. Ford 7.3 Power Stroke diesel, code P1211, lacks power because of fuel restriction
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD alright. I appreciate your time and help I am going to run a fuel pressure test and I have a "new wiring harness" ordered from riffraff, 600 bones but I plan on running this ride for a long time. I did a smoke test and I did verify my up pipes do have a leak so I will be using this video as reference for this next project! Cheers 🍻 and thanks again Probably going to do some hpop videos aswell
Absolutely LOVE the Die Grinder Hammer used to get the clamp off 😅😂😅😂. I do the same sort of stuff. Use what you have that's within arms length vs. Climbing out from what your working on and trying to find one of the 20 dam hammers you have somewhere, and a few cuss words while your searching. Time is so very precious as well as its money! The farting around comment? 😂😂😂😂😂❤❤❤😂😂 love it and you speak my language sir. 👍 Love love the no bullshit, realism of all your videos, and Content that us little guys/folks can understand... thanks for doing what you do.
It’s a ton different with that cab off than reaching around the turbo blindly trying to get that clamp on and off. Probably one of the hardest things I’ve done building motors. Not to mention the confined space. It looks like a piece of cake from the rear & nothing in your way above, plus you can see what your doing. Thanks
Yeah let’s see it done the other way now!
For real so hard. We did it and we are restaurateurs not mechanics. Scared us from doing stuff for a bit. But alas we are broke down again and about to tackle something else.
Clint putting out the best DIY videos in the world! Thanks Clint.
Absolutely LOVE the Die Grinder Hammer used to get the clamp off 😅😂😅😂. I do the same sort of stuff. Use what you have that's within arms length vs. Climbing out from what your working on and trying to find one of the 20 dam hammers you have somewhere, and a few cuss words while your searching. Time is so very precious as well as its money!
The farting around comment? 😂😂😂😂😂❤❤❤😂😂 love it and you speak my language sir. 👍
Love love the no bullshit, realism of all your videos, and Content that us little guys/folks can understand...
thanks for doing what you do.
Patients is key. I'm hearing lifting the cab a bit will also help ease the fight. Great video that shows the actual fitment. Now I can visualize it in my mind when replacing... thanks Man.
My 94 has an annoying knock that gets louder as it warms up then sounds like a rod knock. I’m positive this is my knock. Only started after I had my pedestal o-rings done.
I know you are doing the open air engine as a visual aid to the replacement. However, doing the replacement without removing the tranny or the fender well skirts is grossly more than this. I fought with the 4 bottom bolts for hours. First, my 13 mm socket was stripping the nut. My 1/2 inch socket actually fit tighter. Putting a wrench on the top side of the bolt was difficult (understatement). I found a 1/4” drive 10 mm wobble head worked. I’ve been on this planet almost 7 decades so I tried to think of this as a stretching/conditioning workout! That didn’t eliminate the profanities though. Lastly I went back up top and simply pulled the Y Diverter off without touching a bolt. The donut had disintegrated to the point where there was nothing at all holding the pipes. For a DIYer like me, knowing what to do is often times not as important as knowing how to do it and which tools can and should be used. Now for the interesting part. Reassembly can take a variety of paths. I’ve watched a bunch of videos and they are all different. My theory is to attach the Y Diverter to the turbo before putting the up pipes on so I can get the V Clamp on properly without the headaches most seem to experience. Then the headache will be connecting the top of the up pipes. Is this possible? I know…old video. Not expecting a response.
I'm doing a newer video when i get that obs in the shop showing tips and tricks, tools that make life easier and faster ect ect
I can't believe you talked me into doing my manifolds and up pipes at home, without pulling the cab. I may just give it a go.
As always a great video, is nice to see everything being done and explained! Keep up the good work !
Clint, thank you for the slow and methodical checking, and explanations. Just acquired an '02 Excursion 7.3L
Man i would love to have my 7.3 engine out like that , it would jut be so easy to do every upgrade . i would do a fuel bowl delete first , then dieselsite adrenaline hpop , hpop oil line crossover, put some nice looking valve covers , that fuel pressure guage would be nice too. Any way another good video, i dont need to watch anybody elses videos your always do the trick .ohh and also id definitly put on a gtp38 ball bearing turbo , much bettter that bushing they use in the factory turbo.
Did mine a couple yeas back in truck big job this man has made things heaps easy and help me out so much think you Mr Allen 😀
Smoke machine into the tail pipe
Let me start by saying that I appreciate your videos, very useful to me! Now for the question... I just replaced my up-pipes and on my test drive I noticed about 4 psi less boost. What's the best way to test for leaks on the up-pipes? I've seen the boost leak detectors that use an air compressor but from what I can tell, they only test the intercooler side of the turbo. Thanks for any info!
I think I’ll do my up pipes when I delete my EBPV. Seems like it would make it easier to get to the top bolts.
Great vid .I've got a 45 pound click elbow !
Looks like a no-brainer to do along w/ turbo/pedestal work
Good sound info no BS 👍👍
It would be a good idea to just wrap them up pipes instead of that heat shield
I tried swapping out my up pipes whilst the trans was out for rebuild and neither me nor the mechanic could get the Vband clamp off the turbo. It was right up against the firewall. We tried tilting the motor but that didn’t help. The turbo is newer so I’m wondering if whomever installed it put the Vband straight up rather than clocked to the drivers side a bit to aid in future removal. I guess turbo has to come out to do the job
Yes!! I'm definitely a fan of this man Mr Allen. U are so awesome! This is my next project.
may friend nice video my friend from Guatemala 🇬🇹 bless you America 🇺🇸
Thanks for your instructions! New to this, but has anyone done videos on how to get a cab off?
since the project truck was ran into a concrete wall When I get to putting the new cab on there will be a video on that
Thank you.
I'm new with this early low mile 99
And have been watching all your vids..like most people I've watched tons of videos on this engine.
And I follow your practices.
You've helped me to understand this little monster tremendously.
I'm keeping it pretty much stock with only a few modifications.
Just finished exhaust.
Not going to roll smoke with it.
Just want a little bump.
Any suggestions on how to bump it mabe 75-100 more ponys would be awesome.
standard up grades that give the 7.3 a much increases snap , high out put LPOP , adrenaline HPOP, gtp38r ball bearing turbo
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank you.
😎
Thank you
😎
How do I get in touch with you guys? I have a 2002 Ford Excursion 7.3
Sorry man the left drive side is the hardest to get out and in ,,,the right side just gos right in place
Love your videos but for someone new to the 7.3 I oftener don't understand what you do. Start by telling us what the up pipe does
The up pipes route the exhaust from the engine to the turbo. Exhaust spins the wheelie and dumps out the big hole to the tail pipe
I just did my up pipes a year ago. I didn't realize there was a heat shield that goes on them as the ones I took off didn't have any. Put about 20k miles on the rig and no problems so far. What problems might arise if I continue to drive it like this? Should I go ahead and get some sheilds?
The heat shields that where on yours where removed because the banding failed which is normal But the shields where there to protect from premature failure of the O rings on the oil Galley plugs, Banjo bolts for fuel and the fuel line and from melting the aluminum spacer on automatic trans This for you is only a concern if you are monthly or weekly pulling a load where high EGT's are present. Normal driving and semi occasional towing would prove not much benefit to install new ones or wrap with cooling tape
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks, that's good to know. Truck rarely sees a trailer. Maybe once or twice a year just to haul off yard debris. I mainly use it as a daily commuter to get back and forth from work. All highway driving, no hot rodding.
Right on
Which brand up pipes do you like?
We build our own in house we just buy the junctions But to answer I've seen economy and expensive kits I see no difference amzn.to/3OS107B these are a bargain
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
so you can do uppipes without removing turbo??
yes
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I guess I will give that a try. worst case I will have to remove turbo if I run in to a snag
@@xxxmikeyjock was in a hurry but yes leave the turbo on // remove the old pipes in stall the new turbo manifold in take loose first then run the pipes up to it install those bolts loose just before snug then loosely install the uppipe to the exhaust manifold once again just before snug then tighten up the clamp on turbo then align the up pipe to the exhaust manifold run those down tight and last tighten the up pipe to turbo manifold last EASY on these bolts you can strip them very easily. in most directions it states to remove the turbo or engine that it is the only way to install new this is a very untrue statement and you will be throwing wrenches
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD okay almost done with the job, shutting down for the night. disassembly sucked as much as I expected. thankfully I had one of my labourers help me. I think you need longer arms then I have to get the manifold back on to the turbo. Scott is over 6foot and was able to just reach to get it in place, and we wedged a 2x4 we cutdown to hold it on while we fought with the band clamp. even then it was close to me saying 'thats it we are pulling the turbo'. just have to put pass uppipe in, snug everything up, put the inner fender on, and the wiring harness along the cowl to go back and it will be wrapped up. thank you for the video, we did refer to it again for reassembly, but a hint on a good way to get the band clamp on would be a nice addition to it
Tow haul bottom howtoget it working
Items involved , The switch its self is usually the issue, Remove it,, the shifter and do a Continuity Test With a Multimeter , if good check the next wire in line for voltage P2P N2N then N2P P2n if one of the connections won't give voltage you need to find the broken wire or ground point, check fuses, relays , If all good check the computer for faults if good its a issue at the trans plug or internal trans issue
Would leaking up pipes cause p1211? I've done the main 4 sensors already
No
Power Stroke OBD-II Code P1211 - “ICP Higher/Lower Than Desired” (7.3L)
OBD-II Code P1211 from a 7.3 Liter Power Stroke is often caused by running “Hot Chips” or tunes that are demanding more ICP (Injection Control Pressure) than the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) can deliver and can be accompanied by a lack of power or rough running. For what it’s worth, these are the exact parameters that trigger this code:
ICP 410psi Higher Than Desired for 7 Seconds
ICP 280psi Lower Than Desired for 7 Seconds
Code P1211 can also be caused by legitimate High Pressure Oil System issues. Below is a list of some of the causes:
Failed or Sticking IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator)
Failed or Weak HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump)
Any Leak in High Pressure Oil System (o-ring, stuck injector, etc.)
Low Fuel Pressure (Rare)
P1280 / P1281 / P1283 - (7.3L)
The above codes are related to ICP also. If the SES (Service Engine Soon) light is on and these codes are present, the ICP reading through any scantool will not be accurate as the PCM is using a “default” ICP value. These codes are all “electrical” in nature. Common causes are shorts between the Red and White IPR wires or between the Red IPR wire and ground. These can also sometimes indicate a PCM problem.
Ford 7.3 Power Stroke diesel, code P1211, lacks power because of fuel restriction due to a failed fuel tank filters
These codes are all “electrical” in nature. Common causes are shorts between the Red and White IPR wires or between the Red IPR wire and ground. These can also sometimes indicate a PCM problem. Ford 7.3 Power Stroke diesel, code P1211, lacks power because of fuel restriction
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD alright. I appreciate your time and help
I am going to run a fuel pressure test and I have a "new wiring harness" ordered from riffraff, 600 bones but I plan on running this ride for a long time.
I did a smoke test and I did verify my up pipes do have a leak so I will be using this video as reference for this next project!
Cheers 🍻 and thanks again
Probably going to do some hpop videos aswell
She failed the injector buzz test, number 1 and 6 are no good. I'll be digging Into this on the weekend. Thanks again for your time
Absolutely LOVE the Die Grinder Hammer used to get the clamp off 😅😂😅😂. I do the same sort of stuff. Use what you have that's within arms length vs. Climbing out from what your working on and trying to find one of the 20 dam hammers you have somewhere, and a few cuss words while your searching. Time is so very precious as well as its money!
The farting around comment? 😂😂😂😂😂❤❤❤😂😂 love it and you speak my language sir. 👍
Love love the no bullshit, realism of all your videos, and Content that us little guys/folks can understand...
thanks for doing what you do.