Brilliant video! Tons of info, no stupid music intro, no stupid editing transitions, corrections on mistakes on the screen - just pure YT old school awesome instructions. Diesel tech Ron would be proud to see your stuff.
Thank you for your informative video. You are the first person to actually mention the pigtail for the EBP. I watched a lot of videos with no mention of what to do with that. Everything else was very informative and in other videos, the information you gave wasn't spoken of. Thank you and I did subscribe and I hit the Bell requesting all videos from your channel. Thank you again.
Great Video Dan! I'm also a Phoenix resident with an 02 F250 SD (300K Miles) that has oil leaks and a fair amount of blow-by. I'm currently wondering with all the oil leaks, bad up pipes, old injectors, old turbo and such, if it's probably a better idea to just do a complete major overhaul rather than just pick and choose replacement parts.
After I installed my new delete pedestal my Turbo wouldn't match up to the "Y" down pipe connection, to top is about 1/2" to far away and the bottom seems fine. So I'm guessing I'll have to loosen my Up Pipes at the Exhaust Manifolds. Oddly all I did was take the old Pedestal out and install the Delete and it wouldn't fit. I did notice that the Y Pipe Connector seems farther back than most of the ones I've seen on videos, It's almost touching the firewall and the passenger down pipe touches the block. Not looking forward to it. So do I have to loosen both top and bottom or just the bottom? Thanks for the nice video it's pretty much I was looking for. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for this useful video.i owner a 99 early and will swap to 3" plenums ,turbo and pedestal ,dowmn pipes,and resealed hpop and reservoir everything in one job.thanks
Great video instruction Truck manifolds in Illinois that are exposed to road salt in the winter months don’t come apart as easy as Arizona trucks but I still like the video Thanx
Thank you for this- I am in hell trying to put this turbo back on! I cant for the life of me get the turbo to seat on the collector correctly- let alone even get the clamp to go on. I'm going to try your way. How difficult was it to get the passenger side uppipe to collector bolts back with on this way? My problem is the down pipe is in the way and whole exhaust is welded so I can't just unbolt it. I dont want to cut it off if I dont have to..
With a whole exhaust welded it’s gonna be hell getting that passenger side pipe bolted in place dude good luck honestly I tried it before I just decided to pull the first downpipe down and out of the way
@@diydan7019 So I think I got it back on. I went the traditional route with a few modifications.. I removed the collector and lined it up with the turbo outside the truck and made hashmarks with a sharpie. This way I had some sort of reference point. Then I reinstalled the collector with the passenger side up pipe still attached. Also attached driver side up pipe to collector and loosely installed bolts to manifold. I wrapped the end of a ratchet strap around the collector (without interfering with where the v band goes) and attached the ratchet end to a hole just behind the radiator support on drivers side. With a couple ratchets of the strap, it was able to pull the collector into the turbo and guide the pin in place using the hashmarks. I had to pull the bolt off the clamp and wrap it around. It was not so easy getting the nut back on but it did go. Still a few days from being able to start the truck to check for leaks but fingers crossed!
Hi, nice video, I have a 99 7.3 power stroke pick up, we are changing right now the Exhaust up pipes, we van not aligne them to the turbo, I saw that you recomend to fit the Y first to the turbo and then the pipes lines. We are using the same old turbo pedestal, can the job be done using the old pedestal? Thanks and regards
Great Video. Thanks for taking the time to help others. Curious to know if this Upgrade lowered your EGT's any? I have an E99 7.3L in PHX area, with Stage1 upgrades but even towing my 13klb Fifth Wheel down 202 (Level), EGTs are 1k-1100. So unsure if there will ever be a way (regardless of Turbo/Pipes/HPOP, etc) that will make my 7.3L Towing over any distance/incline/reasonable speed possible. Its only got 170k on it and shelling out $80k for a newer 6.7L may be only option. Also, if there are any Diesel Performance Shops in my area anyone has had good experience with, I could start there.. Thanks in Advance.
Yea I tried everything man this job is kicking my but and of course just had a new exhaust put in like a year ago so the down pipe is stuck in the fitting where it slides in. So just going to cut it out and do this trick I have fiberglass all in my arms fuck that truck 🛻
How did you know you had a leak on that pipe that connects behind the turbo I just installed a new turbo and I hear a leak but I’m not sure how to tell it’s from there
You should start smelling exhaust in the cab. Also look for black soot with a flashlight up from behind the engine, kind of through the tranny and firewall. if you barely start the engine, you can put your hand kind of back there when the exhaust is still somewhat cold and feel for it as well. Definitely don’t do that with a hot engine. but if you just did a turbo, that is the most likely place right on that Y behind the turbo because it is a pain in the ass to get lined up.
What bellowed up pipes did you purchase. Are you satisfied with the fitment and how it seals. Would you recommend the up pipes you installed or do you have any other companies you would recommend purchasing up pipes from. I live in the rust belt and considering a stainless pipe. Thank you for your videos. Any advice is appreciated!
I GOT MINE FROM A SHOP IN PHOENIX DID NOT GET THE BRAND HE HAD THEM LAYING AROUND HIS SHOP AND GAVE THEM TO ME PRETTY CHEAP BECAUSE NOT IN BOX. BUT I HAVE NOT HAD ANY ISSUES SO FAR SO GOOD. SORRY I COULD NOT BE MORE HELP
Ebt valve leaking isn't there no oil going into the valve it's just electric that make the flap work the leak should be coming from bottom of pedestal orings and maybe the top of pedestal orings leak as well. The back pressure pipe and sensor is in front and it controls the valve or flap that is why the wires come from the front to the pedestal if I'm not right tell me I was following what a book told me
No it is Electric over hydraulic it has a electric solenoid That opens and closes an oil passageway and uses a piston fed by the engine oil pressure to open and close the EBT
@@diydan7019 so in that case is it better to put a delete pedestal kit on it so you don't take the chance of it leaking again or what do you think best option is.
In my opinion it’s just another possible oil leak that I didn’t wanna deal with that’s why I eliminated it plus I’m in Phoenix Arizona so the cold weather just isn’t a problem and it is only for warm-upAnyways since I’ve deleted mine I have noticed no change in performance or warm-up time for that matter anything noticeable anyways
Brilliant video! Tons of info, no stupid music intro, no stupid editing transitions, corrections on mistakes on the screen - just pure YT old school awesome instructions. Diesel tech Ron would be proud to see your stuff.
Thank you for your informative video. You are the first person to actually mention the pigtail for the EBP. I watched a lot of videos with no mention of what to do with that. Everything else was very informative and in other videos, the information you gave wasn't spoken of. Thank you and I did subscribe and I hit the Bell requesting all videos from your channel. Thank you again.
Great Video Dan! I'm also a Phoenix resident with an 02 F250 SD (300K Miles) that has oil leaks and a fair amount of blow-by. I'm currently wondering with all the oil leaks, bad up pipes, old injectors, old turbo and such, if it's probably a better idea to just do a complete major overhaul rather than just pick and choose replacement parts.
After I installed my new delete pedestal my Turbo wouldn't match up to the "Y" down pipe connection, to top is about 1/2" to far away and the bottom seems fine. So I'm guessing I'll have to loosen my Up Pipes at the Exhaust Manifolds. Oddly all I did was take the old Pedestal out and install the Delete and it wouldn't fit. I did notice that the Y Pipe Connector seems farther back than most of the ones I've seen on videos, It's almost touching the firewall and the passenger down pipe touches the block. Not looking forward to it. So do I have to loosen both top and bottom or just the bottom? Thanks for the nice video it's pretty much I was looking for. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Great video im about to tackle this in a few days waiting on my new up pipes to come in now just received my new kc 300 stage 1
Thanks for this useful video.i owner a 99 early and will swap to 3" plenums ,turbo and pedestal ,dowmn pipes,and resealed hpop and reservoir everything in one job.thanks
Thanks Bro. You saved me hours of yelling and cursing.
Great video instruction
Truck manifolds in Illinois that are exposed to road salt in the winter months don’t come apart as easy as Arizona trucks but I still like the video
Thanx
Just saved your video for help thanks ordering new pedestal delete kit
Good call
I cant wait to put on this spoologic turbo and uppipe kit on my 02 7.3 check it out in my shorts.
Hi dan I am a arizona local and I am looking have my Garrett turbo remade like yours. is that company still around who did it in Pheonix?
Thank you for this- I am in hell trying to put this turbo back on! I cant for the life of me get the turbo to seat on the collector correctly- let alone even get the clamp to go on. I'm going to try your way. How difficult was it to get the passenger side uppipe to collector bolts back with on this way? My problem is the down pipe is in the way and whole exhaust is welded so I can't just unbolt it. I dont want to cut it off if I dont have to..
With a whole exhaust welded it’s gonna be hell getting that passenger side pipe bolted in place dude good luck honestly I tried it before I just decided to pull the first downpipe down and out of the way
@@diydan7019 So I think I got it back on. I went the traditional route with a few modifications.. I removed the collector and lined it up with the turbo outside the truck and made hashmarks with a sharpie. This way I had some sort of reference point. Then I reinstalled the collector with the passenger side up pipe still attached. Also attached driver side up pipe to collector and loosely installed bolts to manifold. I wrapped the end of a ratchet strap around the collector (without interfering with where the v band goes) and attached the ratchet end to a hole just behind the radiator support on drivers side. With a couple ratchets of the strap, it was able to pull the collector into the turbo and guide the pin in place using the hashmarks. I had to pull the bolt off the clamp and wrap it around. It was not so easy getting the nut back on but it did go. Still a few days from being able to start the truck to check for leaks but fingers crossed!
Great video keep up the good work
Hi, nice video, I have a 99 7.3 power stroke pick up, we are changing right now the Exhaust up pipes, we van not aligne them to the turbo, I saw that you recomend to fit the Y first to the turbo and then the pipes lines. We are using the same old turbo pedestal, can the job be done using the old pedestal?
Thanks and regards
Its a 250
Should not be a problem to use old pedestal. Good luck
I had a shop do exhaust manifold, both,both up pipes,front shocks and install new lockers.2800.00,too much?
Great Video. Thanks for taking the time to help others. Curious to know if this Upgrade lowered your EGT's any? I have an E99 7.3L in PHX area, with Stage1 upgrades but even towing my 13klb Fifth Wheel down 202 (Level), EGTs are 1k-1100. So unsure if there will ever be a way (regardless of Turbo/Pipes/HPOP, etc) that will make my 7.3L Towing over any distance/incline/reasonable speed possible. Its only got 170k on it and shelling out $80k for a newer 6.7L may be only option. Also, if there are any Diesel Performance Shops in my area anyone has had good experience with, I could start there.. Thanks in Advance.
Yea I tried everything man this job is kicking my but and of course just had a new exhaust put in like a year ago so the down pipe is stuck in the fitting where it slides in. So just going to cut it out and do this trick I have fiberglass all in my arms fuck that truck 🛻
How did you know you had a leak on that pipe that connects behind the turbo
I just installed a new turbo and I hear a leak but I’m not sure how to tell it’s from there
You should start smelling exhaust in the cab. Also look for black soot with a flashlight up from behind the engine, kind of through the tranny and firewall. if you barely start the engine, you can put your hand kind of back there when the exhaust is still somewhat cold and feel for it as well. Definitely don’t do that with a hot engine. but if you just did a turbo, that is the most likely place right on that Y behind the turbo because it is a pain in the ass to get lined up.
What bellowed up pipes did you purchase. Are you satisfied with the fitment and how it seals. Would you recommend the up pipes you installed or do you have any other companies you would recommend purchasing up pipes from. I live in the rust belt and considering a stainless pipe. Thank you for your videos. Any advice is appreciated!
I GOT MINE FROM A SHOP IN PHOENIX DID NOT GET THE BRAND HE HAD THEM LAYING AROUND HIS SHOP AND GAVE THEM TO ME PRETTY CHEAP BECAUSE NOT IN BOX. BUT I HAVE NOT HAD ANY ISSUES SO FAR SO GOOD. SORRY I COULD NOT BE MORE HELP
doing same job and cant get the y brace on to back of turbo im in az as well wanna come help lol
Do you have a part number or application for that big paper filter?
I’m pretty sure it’s in the video towards the end if you can’t find it let me know
Ebt valve leaking isn't there no oil going into the valve it's just electric that make the flap work the leak should be coming from bottom of pedestal orings and maybe the top of pedestal orings leak as well. The back pressure pipe and sensor is in front and it controls the valve or flap that is why the wires come from the front to the pedestal if I'm not right tell me I was following what a book told me
No it is Electric over hydraulic it has a electric solenoid That opens and closes an oil passageway and uses a piston fed by the engine oil pressure to open and close the EBT
@@diydan7019 so in that case is it better to put a delete pedestal kit on it so you don't take the chance of it leaking again or what do you think best option is.
And thank you for fast reply I'm in the middle of putting it back on I'm thinking of deleting pedestal and flap so I don't have leakage.
In my opinion it’s just another possible oil leak that I didn’t wanna deal with that’s why I eliminated it plus I’m in Phoenix Arizona so the cold weather just isn’t a problem and it is only for warm-upAnyways since I’ve deleted mine I have noticed no change in performance or warm-up time for that matter anything noticeable anyways
Good job but they are up pipes and it's an ebpv not ebt bud.
You are correct I missed out on my editing LOL