DIY Guide to Vacuum Bagging: Getting a sealed vacuum bag!
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this short video, I cover the process of making a vacuum bag to make carbon fiber parts using resin infusion. It's a detailed look at tacky tape application, pleats and where leaks develop.
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Thanks for taking us slowly step-by-step tthru the bagging. The details on the pleats are a huge timesaver!
Glad it was helpful!
i dont think i will ever make carbon fiber parts but i still enjoy watching.
I can’t tell you just how incredibly helpful your carbon fiber videos have been. I recently started making parts for my ‘Cuda and I often refer to your videos. Thank you for all your effort in making these videos it’s very much appreciated. I look forward to seeing the Volvo completed. Keep up the great work! 👍
Great to hear! Love 'Cuda's!
This is great. Would love to see a beginner guide to all the consumables and when to use what? Like when to use wax vs pva vs peel ply etc.
Mike Patey might make this stuff look easy, but you Sir make this look real, and I appreciate that.
Thanks - it's not all that easy. Especially if you're learning.
I've looked for this level of detail for vacuum bagging last year. There was nothing to be found like this! This is GREAT information man. keep doing what you do.
Thanks - I'm trying to help others with their projects.
I love your videos, really helpful.
Thanks Andy
That is a really good demonstration! You really hit the key details. Totally agree on the need to make bags way bigger than you’d think!
As somebody who has done this probably thousands (hundreds for sure!) of times here are a few other points that might help:
It can be way easier to put the sealant on the bag instead of the mold - just lay the bag on a table and put tape around the perimeter leaving the paper on. Place the bag over the mold, stick down the corners and pleat by pinching up bag edge - sealant ends up doubled in pleats. You use a bit more tape but save a ton of time!
If you put your hoses through in taller pleats you can avoid that frequent leak underneath there.
Pleats should be placed systematically to add extra material where the geometry needs it - and would ideally be symmetrical across the part.
Stretchlon can help but if you don’t use enough well-placed pleats it can spring back after the infusion is filled. The stretch can cause voids or resin-rich corners - not for you though - your pleats are plentiful!
Thanks - I've been told about the sealant on the bag trick. I'm guessing that works best for square molds. I understand how it works, but haven't tried it yet. I use the 1" tape for the feed and vac lines - pretty much stops leaks. I work hard on the symmetry - it's really important. I noticed a significant different in the stretchlon between summer and winter. Summer is SO MUCH EASIER and the temp in the garage when I'm doing this in the winter isn't that cold, but it's just so much nicer to work with when warm.
@@ThrottleStopGarage The sealant on the bag is best when you can lay the bag out on a clean cutting table first - something those of us working from small home shops never have at hand! I try to do it for almost anything under a few square meters - especially for odd shaped stuff because it keeps you from wandering off-symmetrical because you have to account for all the edge. For big things the risks of bag-handling damage makes it less appealing.
Going to have to try the Stretchlon 800 - only ever used the 200 thin stuff which is miserable for infusions. It is probably less prone to tearing than nylon bag in dry or cold situations... Thanks!
thanks for not ruining it with music
Doing what I can.
Watch all your videos. Keep up the great work. Im here enjoying warm winters her in Phoenix, Arizona USA 🇺🇸
Awesome! Thank you! We've had snow for a month!
This is terrific, I've been struggling with leaks and you gave me a lot of great tips. Thanks!
Great - glad the videos helped.
Super tutorial!
Thank you!
Thanks for this!
Glad it's helpful.
No experience whatsoever in this but love all your knowledge your sharing... had the possibly "over engineered" thought of using some 3mm silicone vac line color of your choice and slice them down the middle at various helpful lengths to slide over the edge of the bag and your part to non-invasively and easily adjust it... really might even give you as many safe attempts you dare try to get it as perfect as you can humanly deem possible... lol . Might be just what some people need if they have issues working with getting a good seal by applying after their tape job and leave it dring vacc down... silicone pretty good at resisting heat if you wanna leave it on while it bakes as well... no idea if im right.. but might be worth shot idk let me know..
It's possible to make a silicone bag for multiple parts. This really isn't that hard, once you get the hang of it.
I meant just to use the sliced hose to non permanently hold the edges of your bag to the mold.. might be a waste of time if your experienced with certain parts... but might be useful for prototypes/forst runs of a part to experiment with different bag setups before going all in with the double sided tape..@@ThrottleStopGarage
@@vortex8646 Thanks for the clarification - I now understand your point. I've never done this, but it would be handy to work out bag placement.
Tnx 👍👍
This is great, thanks so much! Do you ever use the harder gray/black sealant tape? I find it's easier to pick up and reposition if I make a mistake during bagging, though it doesn't seem to seal as reliably as the soft yellow type.
I did once - I prefer the yellow for the reasons you note. If you make a mistake - pull it hard and fast. It will come off.
Would have been nice to have seen you pull the vacuum part ? 🧐
I was thinking that when I made the part. Any of my other videos covers that - there are a few details there. Mostly simple things like positioning the bag. How to move it around (release the vac). Again - easy - but super important.
So basically you don't need to pleat for a already square part?
You always need pleats.
@@ThrottleStopGarage okay was confused on a part you mentioned about something being more square
Great info, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a lot! So educational :D
Glad it was helpful!
👍👍😎👍👍 thanks for the lesson
No problem 👍
Yep about the same way I do it
Great.
انت ممتاز
Thank you.
Big fan here!
Have you considered overlaying carbon to key parts of the chassis to reduce chassis flex? There's a race shop in Japan called 'Opera Performance', and they've done this to a few of cars to keep weight down and increase stiffness.
ruclips.net/video/1GyNLQVhl6c/видео.html
Thanks Grant - I increased the strength of the chassis when I built it and will be continuing to do this as I develop the car. I have more strength to add in the critical areas coming up and I'm working on some ideas for how to incorporate composite materials.
I have some questions about resin infused carbon fiber production.
How can i contact you ?
Kindly share email.
Look me up on Instagram.
One day I am going to do this with a GLE coupe. Ofcourse I am going to get rid off the pile of junk Mercedes calls engine and transmission and use a 100 KWH battery and dual motors from Tesla.
You're more helpful than you realize, want to be youtube friends?
Why do you always call time lapses „stop motion“? Stop motion is something different-it‘s when you:
Take a photo - slightly change the scene - take another photo - slightly change the scene again - take another photo… and finally stich those together into a video. E.g. with lego or playdoh figurines or puppets.
When you speed up a video by e.g. having your camera only take one image every second, it‘s called a time lapse video.
I know! I've done some real stop motion video on the channel and have a little more coming up!