How to Vacuum Bag Carbon Fiber
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Vacuum Pump I use: amzn.to/2RtwjfK
Entry level vacuum pump: amzn.to/3f7gX9x
Non-stick scissors: amzn.to/3u80SVo
Scissors: amzn.to/3o3veHe
Roller Cutter: amzn.to/3o8KemZ
Cutting mat: amzn.to/3vYsu0m
Foam Brush: amzn.to/3vX0kTv
Chip Brush: amzn.to/33yTOpY
Mixing cup: amzn.to/3beDbEc
Mold Release Wax: amzn.to/3vVYWQZ
Mold Release PVA: amzn.to/3ffF7h8
Other sources for materials I have used:
UScomposites.com
Sollercomposites.com
Fibreglast.com
compositeenvisions.com
Part 1, Wet Lay: • How to Make a Carbon F...
Part 3, Infusion: • Carbon Fiber Infusion-...
Part 4, Trimming: Coming soon!
To purchase parts or contact us: ajhartmanaero....
Facebook: / ajhartmanaero
Instagram: @ajhartmanaero
Recorded on GoPro 7 Black: amzn.to/2YW7B5N
Edited with Pinnacle Studio: amzn.to/30NWm11
Great info thanks for putting this out there. One thing to think about is epoxy manufacturers usually put a ratio by volume, densities of hardener and epoxy can vary so make sure you also get the ratio by weight. In example, the epoxy I use is 2:1 by volume and 2:.88 by weight.
That is surprising, I would have assumed both parts the same density.
Awesome info! Remember most epoxy systems use volume for ratios. Weight is slightly different so for the perfect mixture and more strength in the part also look up the mix ratio by weight. For instance, my epoxy is 2:1 volume and 2:.88 weight.
Good hearted teacher
What I love the most is how he explains it explicitly and doesn’t rush he does it step-by-step so that you can replicate the process exactly the way that he’s doing it and get the same results
Love your videos man. Just found your channel a couple of days ago and I’m working my way through them. So good. Thanks for putting this content out!
You have some good videos, glad i came across you !
Спасибо, понравился ваш канал. Учусь делать красивые и прочные вещи.)))
Thank you so much for sharing this information
Great and explicit, thanks do much 👍. It's really cool
Thanks man your vids are very easy to follow along with.
I hope and pray that your business will prosper in the highest level of prosperity and you will all ways many have jobs to make your life a great happy life ,
Great vid like always man
instructions are very clear mate thx
nice video, we want one like that@AJ Hartman Aero😍
great stuff here. subscribed!
Great Demo thank you 👍
Cheers very informative
Thanks for the vid! Just one question, is it necessary to fold the gum tape on itself? What’s the purpose of that? Thanks alot!
Thank you brotha! 🙏
Great content AJ. I've been watching your videos for a few months now. I'm looking to make a few carbon fiber parts for my car. I'm starting out making a flat shroud sheet with cutouts. Is it better to use vac bag vs. wet lay, as well as is it better to make a mold if making multiples of the same part? Also, what is the best way to remove voids that must be cut to go around parts such as OEM hood latches and holes for screws?
Very interesting as I am a car guy. My thoughts are to learn what I can make little parts (Up to 12" X 4") and shape them into rounds like a half pipe. "Note; nothing structural, functional, just for looks added on. I noticed that the 3 & 12 added together where very flexible, this is what I am after! I make a paper pattern, allowing for epoxy attachment points, then shape it, stick in place and let it cure. In plastic engine parts I plan to clean (Wax & grease) scuff for a tooth, bend, shape, hold with plastic on edges and tape. At this point, just let the fresh epoxy cure for a day or two, or remove tape & plastic and move on to next item & repeat? Any suggestions or thoughts? As for tiny voids, imperfections or other, I was going to sand lightly to get anything shinny off using 600 grit hand sanded, clean with wax & grease remover and perhaps spray two coats of high solids clear coat and let it gas off. So if careful, no sags, runs or defects and just let it shine. The clear has tons of "UV" additive in it plus it will under hood and out of sunlight anyways. The shape of these add on parts will lend themselves to structural rigidity anyways so if I get the stuck, they will not be touched, just looked. Plus a two part clear coat adds rigidity anyways, while subject to engine vibration and some under hood temps not exceeding 260-280 degrees F, I think they should be fine. I was shocked when you had the bundle of two different fibers folded over for weight. I use all the PPE equipment required to stay safe but this is just an example of my over-active mind at work. Thanks for any reply as my garage is in the upper 30's F, and this activity is some distance away into April 2023 when global warming kicks in again. Funny, as kids 58 years ago, we called it summer, not global warming and seasonal temps where weather! Lol. Thanks!
Doing the vacuum bag does it make the part stronger or does it just help with cutting down the weight? Watching these videos makes me think I might actually be able to make a rear spoiler for my car out of carbon fiber.
Generally you get better properties with vacuum bagging. Plus, pulling excess resin weight out, you could add another layer or two of carbon to get a stronger part at the same weight as a wet lay part.
@@ajhartmanaero Thanks great videos a lot of great information. Are there any other surfaces you recommend using for laying up carbon. I see you use a mirror anything else you would recommend?
My dude!
AJ you are an artist. OK forgive me a couple lame questions.
I looked up each of the addresses above but didn't see the blue peel ply, breather cloth or 3/8 vacuum hose.
Pretty sure I saw the gum tape you use and the vacuum bagging.
Can you put a link to their sources in a comment below ? It would be most appreciated.
I may try fixing something fiberglass in the near future and I can't afford to just wing.
PS Your instructional's are the hands down the best.
Thanks
In my best Gilda Radner voice
"never mind"
I just needed to look harder LOL
This is extremely helpful. I’d really like to start getting into trying my hand with composites soon. How many layers of carbon would you recommend using in something like one of your splitter tunnels? The 2 layers you used for this sheet looks like too few, but I wouldn’t want to use way too many either.
Also, do you run the vacuum pump the entire time the piece is curing? Or do you pull a vacuum and clamp it off somehow to hold the vacuum?
believe it or not, the tunnels are also 2 layers. Don't forget there are different weight carbons so layers doesn't really mean much, but thickness does. Also, shape has a lot to do with parts strength.
I leave the pump on till the part gels. I've seen people do it both ways so its up to you.
Nice video, thank you for sharing your process. I have a question about materials for vacuum, such as gumtape, breather and bag: are they disposable or reusable? Thank you for answering
Great video very informative. I was wondering would it be possible to use one layer of carbon fiber when vacuum bagging? do you need an autoclave/ oven room for it to cure?
You can do as few or as many layers as you need. And an oven is not necessary. Cure time would just be much longer.
You cpd but it thin and flexible like paper, 24/48hrs with a little heat 20deg C+ will cure most thin laminates. AJs set up is just what we all need!
Good job awesome 👏🏻
自分用
10:32 12:23
Awesome video, did you apply a combination of wax and pva on the mirror before applying the epoxy ?
Hey this video its soo use full as a begineer but can i know to what purpose are you use oven and if soo is there any specific temperature to bake it 🧐🧐🤔
Thanks for the great video. How come you put pleats in something that is relatively thin and flat?
Never hurts to have a few small pleats.
@@ajhartmanaero thanks for the reply mate. Love your videos.
Sangat bermanfaat, bisakah kamu membuat blade longlins ?
Great videos! I have a question regarding the vacuum process. Do you keep vacuum running through the drying process? Do you use regulator or straight from vacuum(if use regulator what is it set to or does this change According to part size)? I do refrigeration and have several vacuum pumps with different cfm. What you recommend? Sorry for all the questions
Really like your videos. Very straight forward. Dumb question though... How long is it vacuumed for and at what temperatures? And could I in theory use a vacuum cleaner?
Whatever epoxy system you use will have a cure schedule. And no, a regular vacuum cleaner will not work.
If I were making carbon fiber discs of approximately 20.5” in diameter should I try to cut circles first or make square panels and shaped them after curing? Thanks!
got a couple questions
what’s the purpose of the folds in the gum tape
: whenever you vacuum bag a part do you need to bake it
: what temp and how long do you bake it for
Thanks!
i waited the answer, but anyone didn't reply.
I’d like to know these answers too
Thanks❤. Where do you buy the vacuum bagging material? Thx
That looks way stronger than your wet lay up
Hi AJ, great video mate. Just wondering what kind of thickness this panel came out at? I am looking at making some panels for my Sprintcar so need an end thickness of around 1.2 - 1.5mm. Cheers
Nice demonstration! I like your method of putting the mesh in the vacuum tube instead of wrapping it around - nice and compact.
Is the MDF block just to keep the hose from wiggling around and making a leak?
Yes
Is it necessary to put the item in the oven if you vacuum bag?
Excellent video how long to leave the Epoxy resin between each layer
After you have everything ready for the vacuum, do you put it in the MDF closet to keep it warm? Is it some type of oven? Or is it just to have it isolated? 11:54
What vacuum pump do you use or that I can buy to keep it running during the curing process?
What is the purpose of the pleats in the gum tape?
Gives the bag enough slack to make it over any contours. They aren’t that necessary on flat panels so only a few very short ones are sufficient.
Help me out buddy, please. I’m having big trouble with the vacuum bag seal, I can’t seem to get to seal properly, always a leak. Is there a trick to sealing the bag. I start on one end and end on the other. And also, what vacuum pump do you use??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
If the material is going on a car. Is a 2k clear needed as a next step? Or is a uv epoxy good enough?
Can you use anything for the bleeder layer, ie old cloths?
I think I've asked you this before but what is "dry carbon" in relation to these techniques? Also, it might not be a bad idea to put an in line "catch can" on your vacuum system
Honestly I'm not even sure since there isn't an industry standard. But I generally see people refer to parts that are not clear coated as "dry" carbon. But I've also seen parts made with pre-preg as "dry carbon" even tho the carbon is laid up "wet", it generally has a "drier" finish. If you ask me the whole "dry carbon" thing is a marketing term that caught on. As for an in line catch pot, I havent used one is about 8 years. I properly laid up and set up part shouldn't need one. But when people are learning, they are a good idea.
What happened with the kind of foamy epoxy on the top of the fabric near the end of squeegeeing? Did you spread that out evenly or discard it?
Where do you get your carbon from? I’m a ring maker and I’ve been using round mold to pack chopped cf into but I’d rather get It in rolls
Do you keep the vacuum pump running during the entire cure or can it be separated with a quick disconnect so the part keeps it’s vacuum?
Keep it running.
What is your table made of?
Question, and I’m new to trying carbon so please excuse me but is there any benefit to putting the resin on the part directly compared to having it pulled through with a vacuum on it? From the videos I’ve seen with vacuum bagging it seems like people normally have another tube running for the resin.
That would be infusion. Totally different technique and my next video will be on that.
you think sandwich two glasses wet carbon on each side would work?
I’ve seen it done and tried it small scale but bubbles will probably be an issue till you get your process down.
@@ajhartmanaero do you offer workshops/classes on carbon work?
Thanks! So the vacuum bagged one is lighter and possibly stronger?
Yes
👍👍👍
Do you provide trainings?
Yes. Watch all my videos.
How much vacuum are you pulling?
@@bdog3869 as much as you can
AJ do you absolutely have to vacuum bag a piece? Thanks
No. Watch my wet layup video.
@@ajhartmanaero AJ thank you I did just now. Have a Great Week?
Hi AJ, noticed a perforated release film was not used on this simple layup, around how many hg of vacuum did you use so as not to pull too much resin out of the laminate?
I've found that perf film keeps to much resin in the part, but I guess that depends on the parts you are making. All I can say is do some tests on your own with weights to see what works specifically for you. I use full vacuum (just under 30in/hg) on my parts.
The tight weave coated peel ply makes it work here but if you're using plain nylon peel ply you'll struggle to remove the bleeder. Different peel plies seem to regulate bleed differently... no data, just a feeling!
Hi is the oven obligatory to do this technic ?
No. Every epoxy has a data sheet on cure times at specific temps. Without heat the cure time may be extremely long tho.
did you wet lay that before bagging??
Not sure I understand the question. I did it exactly how I showed.
Do I need to used clear gel coat before make panels?
Totally up to you.
@@ajhartmanaero I am new to this... What would be the benefit of doing the clear gel coat?
@@bbmotorsports6855 If done properly with quality clear, it won't, or shouldn't yellow or get cloudy over time. If done wrong or with cheap stuff, it may still yellow or haze, or most common is it will start to flake off over time. So like anything with composites, theres plusses and minuses. Very rarely is there a dead set way.
Why the folds in the gum tape?
It gives the bag some slack to make it over any contours.
what if you want to lay up a concave mold? Stippling method?