سلام استاد با این روش که بعد از گذاشتن پشم شیشه ونهایتا پلاستیک یا سیلیکن ایامثلا برای قایق های بزرگ هرقطری از لایه های پشم شیشه تا ۱۰ سانتی متر را میتوان با روش مکش از رزین اشباع کرد بطوری که حبابی ایجاد نشه متشکرم
The process is the same. You can carefully insert your part into the bag if you choose to close 3 sides first, or you can leave the bag open and then close the 3 or 4 sides after the part is in place. This is very common for large parts that are hard to move around. The thing to remember is that if you get epoxy resin on your bag were the tape seals, it will never stick and you will have to replace the bag.
@@RockWestComposites Maybe applying vacuum techniques to concave molds (therefore convex parts) like for car fenders, boat hulls, aircraft fuselages and engine cowlings, racebike fairings, stuff like that. That would also be interesting and informative.
I am from India, interested to be your distributor Pan-India for vaccum bagging consumables. I currently am a Pigments and Dyes manufacturer and my father told me to research about this Industry. Looking forward to get in touch.
I've stopped putting bag tape on mold flanges and just putting tape directly on the bag from the start.. works minty on flat plates and makes pleating cakewalk. No need to do extra pleat taping after the fact.
This is very true. Tape on bag is a super fast preferred method. But in most cases it works best on smaller, mostly flat, rectangular plates or molds. We demonstrate the pleat method as it is best suited for odd shaped parts and parts with loads of definition where numerous pleats are required. Managing a large bag with that much tape can be unwieldy and will use a lot of extra tape where the pleats are located. Unless you have a large clean work area that you can place the tape on the bag (without the danger of piercing or damaging the bag), you may be better off using the pleat method.
ok, but where's the perforated peel-ply you need between the breather-fabric and your sticky platic part?? or do you have a breather that somehow doesn't stick? by the way: are there elastic, stretchable materials for the breathing layer and for the bag? like may be rubber-, latex-, silicone-foil? thanks!
This was only a demonstration of the vacuum bagging technique. We weren't trying to demonstrate the layup process, only the different types of vacuum bagging styles that you may need to use. In a standard layup vacuum bag setup, you would follow this stack-up: 1. Mold surface 2. composite layup 3. Peelply (sometimes optional) 4. Perforated -OR- non-perforated release film 5. Breather fabric 6. Vacuum bag film As for "stretchable" materials, you should never rely on any materials to stretch. You should always place all materials into the corners, as tight as possible, before vacuum bagging. As I tell all my students, "A vacuum bag is not a magic wand for perfect parts". There is stretchable peelply and stretchable vacuum bag, but your carbon fiber or fiberglass layers are not stretchable, AT ALL, so never rely on stretch to accomplish the impossible. There are some reusable vacuum bags made out of latex, but these are expensive and generally used to decrease the labor of vacuum bagging and not for fool proofing the vacuum process.
@@RockWestComposites thanx for your response, info and recommendations! however I have in mind a particular profile for panels that can be made only by a stretch-deep-drawing-process. and for that I will need stretchable reinforment (for prepregs) - which exists in the shape of knitted glassfibre-fabrics - and - at best - all the other materials stretchable. so I'd be grateful for any links, because via google I didn't find anything (easily)...
I've worked extensively with knit fiberglass, but it isn't what I'd call "deep draw". it will stretch and conform about 2x. There is stretchable vacuum bag and peel ply, but again, not deep draw, just enough stretch to help mitigate bridging in vacuum bagging.
@@RockWestComposites thanx for answering! what do you mean please by "it will stretch and conform about 2x."? that the original length can be doubled? that would be quite sufficient for (at least some considerable) 'stretch-deep-drawing'! / could you tell me where you got it from? I found only chinese producers, but they don't answer when I ask for the samples they offer...
@Rock West Composites I have a trike that I'm modifying. Where the current back seat is I'd like to put a box to store things. Thinking of making foam mold to fit the complex curves. Can I vacum bag this box mold to create the form I need?
I enjoy videos of composite techniques and methods to learn and practice, you are doing an amazing job 👍🏻…
“My beautiful pleats “ 😁lol
It's great to know that we are making a difference. Tell your friends!
سلام استاد با این روش که بعد از گذاشتن پشم شیشه ونهایتا پلاستیک یا سیلیکن ایامثلا برای قایق های بزرگ
هرقطری از لایه های پشم شیشه تا ۱۰ سانتی متر را میتوان با روش مکش از رزین اشباع کرد بطوری که حبابی ایجاد نشه متشکرم
For the "envelope bagging" technique, it would be helpful to see how this is all done when a wet part needs to be inserted in the envelope.
The process is the same. You can carefully insert your part into the bag if you choose to close 3 sides first, or you can leave the bag open and then close the 3 or 4 sides after the part is in place. This is very common for large parts that are hard to move around. The thing to remember is that if you get epoxy resin on your bag were the tape seals, it will never stick and you will have to replace the bag.
Talk about skipping major steps. Wow!
Please elaborate.
First!
Nice video. Informative.
Thanks! If you want to see a different method, let us know.
@@RockWestComposites Maybe applying vacuum techniques to concave molds (therefore convex parts) like for car fenders, boat hulls, aircraft fuselages and engine cowlings, racebike fairings, stuff like that. That would also be interesting and informative.
@@RockWestComposites Also, maybe strategies for incorporating sandwich core materials with vacuum bagging.
I need to buy Carbon, glass and kevlar fiber prepreg for my project. but the information on the company website is easy to understand. Kindly assist.
Be better without the music.
If only we could please everybody...
I am from India, interested to be your distributor Pan-India for vaccum bagging consumables. I currently am a Pigments and Dyes manufacturer and my father told me to research about this Industry. Looking forward to get in touch.
I can even set-up a manufacturing unit in Vapi, Gujarat, India and do your jobwork/contract manufacturing to reduce costs.
Great info, but the music is mixed a little too loud.
Cut the music when talking, use it to fill in the audio for detail shots.
Noted!
I've stopped putting bag tape on mold flanges and just putting tape directly on the bag from the start.. works minty on flat plates and makes pleating cakewalk. No need to do extra pleat taping after the fact.
This is very true. Tape on bag is a super fast preferred method. But in most cases it works best on smaller, mostly flat, rectangular plates or molds. We demonstrate the pleat method as it is best suited for odd shaped parts and parts with loads of definition where numerous pleats are required. Managing a large bag with that much tape can be unwieldy and will use a lot of extra tape where the pleats are located. Unless you have a large clean work area that you can place the tape on the bag (without the danger of piercing or damaging the bag), you may be better off using the pleat method.
Very helpful, could you please tell me that how much vacum is usually applied for parts made up of epoxy.
We are pulling about 24 inches of mercury here in Salt Lake City, UT.
Great vid. Would you do one on objects that need to fit into a cavity or a mold? Like a car bumper?
Great idea. We should be doing some refreshed videos in the near future.
ok, but where's the perforated peel-ply you need between the breather-fabric and your sticky platic part?? or do you have a breather that somehow doesn't stick? by the way: are there elastic, stretchable materials for the breathing layer and for the bag? like may be rubber-, latex-, silicone-foil? thanks!
This was only a demonstration of the vacuum bagging technique. We weren't trying to demonstrate the layup process, only the different types of vacuum bagging styles that you may need to use.
In a standard layup vacuum bag setup, you would follow this stack-up:
1. Mold surface
2. composite layup
3. Peelply (sometimes optional)
4. Perforated -OR- non-perforated release film
5. Breather fabric
6. Vacuum bag film
As for "stretchable" materials, you should never rely on any materials to stretch. You should always place all materials into the corners, as tight as possible, before vacuum bagging. As I tell all my students, "A vacuum bag is not a magic wand for perfect parts". There is stretchable peelply and stretchable vacuum bag, but your carbon fiber or fiberglass layers are not stretchable, AT ALL, so never rely on stretch to accomplish the impossible.
There are some reusable vacuum bags made out of latex, but these are expensive and generally used to decrease the labor of vacuum bagging and not for fool proofing the vacuum process.
@@RockWestComposites thanx for your response, info and recommendations! however I have in mind a particular profile for panels that can be made only by a stretch-deep-drawing-process. and for that I will need stretchable reinforment (for prepregs) - which exists in the shape of knitted glassfibre-fabrics - and - at best - all the other materials stretchable. so I'd be grateful for any links, because via google I didn't find anything (easily)...
I've worked extensively with knit fiberglass, but it isn't what I'd call "deep draw". it will stretch and conform about 2x. There is stretchable vacuum bag and peel ply, but again, not deep draw, just enough stretch to help mitigate bridging in vacuum bagging.
@@RockWestComposites thanx for answering! what do you mean please by "it will stretch and conform about 2x."? that the original length can be doubled? that would be quite sufficient for (at least some considerable) 'stretch-deep-drawing'! / could you tell me where you got it from? I found only chinese producers, but they don't answer when I ask for the samples they offer...
Very helpful I just got a job at LTC and I will be bagging😁
Congratulations!. Good Luck!
@@RockWestComposites thank you I start Wednesday and can't wait!!
Not seeing the end result.
This video intent was to show the vacuum bag technique for several different methods of bagging. No parts were made.
awesome🔥
Glad you like it!
So how would one vacuum a box trunk ?
Not quite sure what you are referencing. Can you explain further?
@Rock West Composites I have a trike that I'm modifying. Where the current back seat is I'd like to put a box to store things. Thinking of making foam mold to fit the complex curves. Can I vacum bag this box mold to create the form I need?