I don't know why there would be negative comments - I'd be very happy to buy something that good in a shop! Keep posting please, I find the internet to be such a fantastic resource thanks to folks like you who are willing to share your expertise!
Looks awesome sir! Don't listen to those people that never built a single thing with their hands. Building things is hard. Just imagine building this in 2000.
I'm entirely in agreement: that shift rod carbon fiber covering looks great. It may not be perfect, but it's more than enough for what it is and the variations in the carbon fiber weave add character.
True - but there has been a small change. Tremec just released a new transmission that can handle the HP/TQ and is an overall better design for about the same price as a stout rebuild on the T5. So that's what's going to happen. Our border was closed for a long time, and I don't need the new trans just yet, but I'm pretty sure that this shifter won't be making the cut for the final car.
@@ThrottleStopGarage A shame that you'll probably end up needing to modify yet another shifter, but it will be nice to have a transmission better suited to your needs. Hopefully it'll also still fit your transmission tunnel without requiring extensive modifications.
I figure it's better to show how it really happens when you're learning. I thought that the release agent would work and it failed completely. Better to show that and prevent someone from making the same mistake.
I have vacuum bagged quite a bit of carbon fiber but not with sleeves. Now I have a good idea as to the procedure. The part you produced looks excellent. Thanks for the video. Take care
I say ignore anyone who is giving negative feedback on something like this. You're very open and clear about these things being your very first attempts at these processes, and you're still producing things that are gorgeous. As others have said, any little imperfections are either ignorable or add character. For my part, I would have a hard time with anything being 'less than perfect' and I have grown to learn that this is one of my biggest problems when working on my cars. Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good!
The foam is basically the same stuff as spray foam. Closed cell is usually 2lb but for roofing or commercial freezers we have sprayed 6 and even 10lb foam. On another note linex bed liners are pretty much the same stuff as well. All that said it's an awesome product
Very nice for a low cost one off part. Your method of taping peel ply for compression was a good choice, Vacuum bagging would have pulled a lot of resin into all the wrinkles requiring way more sanding and greater likelihood of cutting into the carbon. Sometimes keeping it simple is the best choice. Great work!
Thanks - I'm happy with the way it turned out. There is a compression tape (it was available at the time, I just didn't know about it) and it apparently works well.
Looks great! Black vinyl electrical tape is great for tubular compression as well. Wrap it adhesive side facing out so outer layers have something to stick to. I also puncture the spool of electrical tape with heavy duty staples first to assist in bleed-out of the resin, and remove the staples before use.
Noticed your "Tim Horton's' coffee cups ! 👍👍 Best coffee I ever drink at KAF ! The video about the pouring foam for Carbon fiber pasts was extremely helpful!! Cheers
This is great. As far as I know this is actually the only video anyone has ever produced on youtube where they actually walk through creating a rigid polyurethane foam form and finish it into a carbon fiber composite component. Here's a suggestion, next time you are considering the same set up, use interlocked silk jersey fabric instead of carbon fiber. It's more expensive but is lighter, stronger, sets up better, has a much wider array of color choices and is vastly more asthetic than carbon fiber when finished.
Awesome idea, process, and part! I tinker with CF a bit, and I have a few suggestions. For the foam molding, mix a 1.5X required volume shot, and tape/cap the vent hole. It likes compression as it expands, and will yield a better consistency. The extra volume helps drive the compression. Check out smooth-on: they have great videos and info on pour foam, and OMG so many cool materials! For the carbon, use the braided tube as your first layer, but use woven fabric as the top layer, such as a 2x2 twill, or spread-tow plain weave. The braid angle changes with the diameter of the shaft, which affects the braid cosmetics. The woven fabric will stay somewhat flatter for better faceting of the black bling. Wrapping the layup with peel ply will help level out the high/low spots, reducing sanding and sand thru. Also, composite envisions sells heat shrink tape that you can wrap around your part (just like the masking tape), which will shrink when you hit it with a heat gun, and give the layup significant compression. Regardless, I'm impressed with your creativity, and inspired to try new processes! Thanks for the great video!
I work with the same materials, and I love your projects! A couple thoughts on the 2-part PU foam. First, read the warnings on breathing the vapors. I have lung cysts from not using a respirator while making several large parts in my shop with 2-part PU. I've also found that the foam needs to build up pressure to form a homogeneous, solid material, and the top pour hole bothered me (you could just pour the foam in 1 half, then close the mold in the vise). Still, your foam turned out awesome. Thanks for sharing your magic!
Thanks - I try to keep the PPE on and stay safe. I'm most likely not using this as the transmission options widened and I'm going in a different direction.
Came out clean and nice. I like the DIY aspects of this part. Good entry into more complex carbon fiber esthetic parts. I started with flat sided pieces, but with carbon sheet being so cheap, this is the real 1st step.
Thanks - there were challenges for sure...but I'm happy with how it worked. I especially like that it disappears in the car - it's just black unless you look.
Haha great, I use this foam for a lot of stuff! Filling up moulds, making cores for hydrofoils, fitting fin boxes into surfboards, changing shapes of stuff and sticking stuff togheter. Ideal stuff!
There will always be love and hate when you are a content creator. Just remember, Haters go away, but true love for your content stay. I like to test and do things my own way, even if everybody say its not good or good enough. This is just my dummy acc, but i do make content my self so i know it might hurt sometimes. Happy new year.
Thanks - I just posted the raw part not the cleared part - my fault. I could see that it was going to be fine. I've had my share of hate on this platform, so I really appreciate it when a fellow content creator comments. Sometimes people think there is some other guy making the content and doing the videos...it's just me.
@@ddegn , yes you lay the smooth side down and start winding it around your part. It will compress the sleeve and force out excess resin as you go. I used the 2” wide tape as it gives you more area to work with. Don’t stretch the tape to tight just firm against your work.
@@Chris-okf Thanks for the reply. Hopefully I'll remember your tip if when it come time to wrap a sleeve. When I attempted to Google "reverse wrap" I found instructions on making rope but your reply cleared up my confusion. Thanks again.
Electrical tape does indeed work and complies better to more funky shapes but you have to be very, very careful that you don't shift your laminate around. Maybe using peel ply would help mitigate that risk, though.
It would be cool to see an update video where you bring us up to date with where you think you are overall on the project, and what your schedule for completion looks like? Racing in springtime?
Im not so much into Cars anymore, but I do build and race RC Sailboats (AMYA) Your use of foam was very informative. Thanks for that. I use a lot of Composite Envisions products,,,, you might even like their "House" resin.....the new formula is fantastic for Resin Infusion and Cheaper both in cost of the product and cost of shipping. I was a former user of Pro-Set resins. Again this video was prime. You have a new subscriber.
@@ThrottleStopGarage having 2 resin printers (little elegoo mars and large anycubic photon X) and 2 ender3 and 2 CR10 for large prints, with a little glue or Fiber reinforcement, one can basically build anything imaginable,which is what i am working on.. can't wait to see what more custom stuff comes when this project is finished! Loving the channel
Interesting video. I have a couple of suggestions for you to help make life a little easier in the future: 1) For mixing small quantities of multi-part material use industrial syringes to get accurate liquid measurements. You can get the syringes at industrial supply stores. I use McMaster Carr down here in the US. You should check to see if McMaster is up there in Canada. If not, there is probably another source for industrial syringes. 2) When you are pouring liquid into a mold it is best to have a sprue (hole where the liquid goes in) at the bottom of the mold and vents (small holes or grooves where the air in the mold cavity can escape) at the top of the mold cavity or places in the mold cavity where air can get trapped as the liquid or foam rises in the cavity. This will greatly improve part quality and reduce voids in the final casting. In your case your mold parting line was imperfect enough (as indicated by the flash at the parting line) to allow air to vent out as the foam expanded in the mold cavity. So, you got lucky there. Love the workbench. Your shop looks lived in.
Wow that looks like a bought one but better, can't wait to see what the car looks like when its all done..hopefully you have a second build in mind for when you are done
Wow, I didn't even imagine this was possible. I am so stoked that I stumbled onto this channel.. I am now a subscriber and look forward to more great ideas and videos.
Nice, I always wondered about using the expanding foam for parts, I was under the impression that once you pour the foam in you needed to cover/seal the opening, but I’ve only seen one ever application of it. Good job I like the finished product.
I think you would seal the opening you use to add the foam, if you are relying on the expansion of the foam to force the foam into hard to reach places...in that case you will have a vent in the area you want the foam to flow into. Not having a vent is asking for trouble!
Little tip for you and the people watching is instead of peel ply and tape you can use heat shrink tube and then simply heat shrink it and you can get more or less usable parts straight off the shrink tube, it’s sort of semi gloss / semi satin finish. Good luck.
Composite heat shrink tape would have been your best friend for the replacement for the green masking tape. But it still turned out beautifully without it 🤘
I've used the 2lb stuff several times, and it always seems pretty random as to how much it expands. lol I'm glad you pointed out that this isn't like spray can foam. The 4lb stuff is supposed to be almost rock hard, but I haven't needed it for anything yet. Wow, I didn't know they made a carbon fiber sleeve like that. Looks like Techflex. lol
I only made the parts you see - but most of the rest of this kit was used by a friend to add a foam reinforcement to the front of a hood. It was consistent. The sleeve was harder to work with than it looks because the shifter twists - the weave won't twist - so the lines can't follow the part perfectly. It's also on the floor of my car LOL.
I just thought I'd mention, there IS a special heat shrink tape made for exactly this type of job! (I want to buy it just because I know it exists, but I don't need it for anything, yet...) And as a rule, PVA shouldbe avoided with urethanes. Atleast when casting urethane plastics, they warn against using wood stirs and paper cups...because both can contain enough moisture to cause problems. However, since moisture typically causes bubbles, it isn't going to make much difference when pouring foam......
I'm working on something similar and I came across epoxy putty (Free Form Air HT for those wanting specifics). I'm thinking it will save time in 3D modeling and mold making and mashed sense for one offs.
Man don’t you know that’s how your bench should look? Total disorganization all the time! I can’t anything when “put my stuff up” trying it to help lol
Nice work. I am excited that we'll start to see the car come together as a whole more in 2021. I'm also a fan of a shifter that isn't entirely covered with a boot. Keen to see the next shift ball vid. I can guess already how its done but certain there's some tips in there I haven't imagined yet.
Working on that video now - it's hard to see the style/vision that I have for this car. I have not been able to find an artist to render any of it. So it's just coming out of my head bit by bit.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Maybe send a message to TheSketchMonkey. He has a channel here on YT and the same on Insta. He's from Sweden and has a fondness for Volvo's and might be a chance for a crossover, if not certainly a credible commission request. Search his videos, I think he's made a take on the amazon. You can also try looking on Fivr lots of artists will render vehicles for an affordable price but it won't be a Foose original.
Hi Ian - I really think they're a "must have tool" these days. I've made so many parts for this car on my printer. There is a pretty steep learning curve - but with parametric CAD getting more intuitive, it's a real game changer.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Also, HUGE thank you for the smallest tip ever. Cleaning the modeling clay has been the bane of my existence and I saw you use a bristle brush... So I added some dish soap, water, and used a bristle brush and it came off very quickly. Life saving, I swear!
Thanks for all the videos, learned a lot from them. Can I use scotch spray mount for placing the carbon fiber fabric and why don't you use vinyl ester gel coat? In Easy composites tutorials they explain it helps for better release of epoxy parts.
You don't need to do much with the sleeves. Why use a gel coat for this part? Urethane clear is fine and a lot easier to deal with. I have some clear vinyl ester clear, but the urethane works great. There was only a 3D printed mold - so no need to mess around with gel coats.
Super underrated channel. We appreciate all your time you're taking to share this with us!
I appreciate that! Thanks!
I whole heatedly agree with FastIndy!
I love watching your content. Thank you for making such awesome videos. Your work is quite inspiring!
@@appleorange34 thanks for the encouragement.
Facts
here here!
Thanks for sharing your honest non-sugarcoated process of restoring your vehicle and teaching us along the way.
Merry Christmas!
Thanks - keeps me going!
Love a man that is not afraid to have a go, top job.
Cheers!
This channel is about a dad teaching his kids all over the world how to do awesome things! Keep up the good work, love it!
Thanks. High praise.
I don't know why there would be negative comments - I'd be very happy to buy something that good in a shop! Keep posting please, I find the internet to be such a fantastic resource thanks to folks like you who are willing to share your expertise!
Thank you!
Looks awesome sir! Don't listen to those people that never built a single thing with their hands. Building things is hard. Just imagine building this in 2000.
Thanks.
Top respect for just being yourself choosing to not stop learning and creating lots of love from a mechanical engineer in England ✌️💪
Thanks - very much appreciated.
I'm entirely in agreement: that shift rod carbon fiber covering looks great. It may not be perfect, but it's more than enough for what it is and the variations in the carbon fiber weave add character.
True - but there has been a small change. Tremec just released a new transmission that can handle the HP/TQ and is an overall better design for about the same price as a stout rebuild on the T5. So that's what's going to happen. Our border was closed for a long time, and I don't need the new trans just yet, but I'm pretty sure that this shifter won't be making the cut for the final car.
@@ThrottleStopGarage A shame that you'll probably end up needing to modify yet another shifter, but it will be nice to have a transmission better suited to your needs. Hopefully it'll also still fit your transmission tunnel without requiring extensive modifications.
I don't know anything about carbon fiber, but that shifter is a work of art, so i subbed.
Thanks!
Shifter came out beautifully. I'm glad you put it right into the camera at the end because I wasn't able to see the weave until then. Well done.
Thank you!
Love the warts and all approach......and the bits that the dedicated get to enjoy
I figure it's better to show how it really happens when you're learning. I thought that the release agent would work and it failed completely. Better to show that and prevent someone from making the same mistake.
Its your part, money and time. I used my time well spent watching you share this video. Came out good enough to me as well
Thanks
Shifter is so pretty now you need a nice leather shifter boot!
We'll see how it all works out. I have to see it all in the car to decide.
This channel is a goldmine!
Thanks!
I have vacuum bagged quite a bit of carbon fiber but not with sleeves. Now I have a good idea as to the procedure. The part you produced looks excellent. Thanks for the video. Take care
Thanks!
I say ignore anyone who is giving negative feedback on something like this. You're very open and clear about these things being your very first attempts at these processes, and you're still producing things that are gorgeous. As others have said, any little imperfections are either ignorable or add character.
For my part, I would have a hard time with anything being 'less than perfect' and I have grown to learn that this is one of my biggest problems when working on my cars. Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good!
Sound advice - thanks. Negative energy surrounds creators - doubt drives possibility. Feedback is always welcome - I create for myself.
Lovely lovely lovely videos, I've binge watched a dozen yet
Glad you like them! I try to make them useful.
@@ThrottleStopGarage It's the right blend of entertainment and actionable knowledge
The foam is basically the same stuff as spray foam. Closed cell is usually 2lb but for roofing or commercial freezers we have sprayed 6 and even 10lb foam. On another note linex bed liners are pretty much the same stuff as well. All that said it's an awesome product
Canada you boys always have a Tim Hortons cup somewhere in the mix. Great video.
They do sort of force it on us...can't throw a stick and not hit a Tim's.
Very nice for a low cost one off part. Your method of taping peel ply for compression was a good choice, Vacuum bagging would have pulled a lot of resin into all the wrinkles requiring way more sanding and greater likelihood of cutting into the carbon. Sometimes keeping it simple is the best choice. Great work!
Thanks - I'm happy with the way it turned out. There is a compression tape (it was available at the time, I just didn't know about it) and it apparently works well.
Looks great! I like little imperfections as they give character and make the part look more natural/organic!
Yes - sort of like a Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic.
Looks great! Black vinyl electrical tape is great for tubular compression as well. Wrap it adhesive side facing out so outer layers have something to stick to. I also puncture the spool of electrical tape with heavy duty staples first to assist in bleed-out of the resin, and remove the staples before use.
I wish I'd known this trick before! Happy with the result, but if i wet lay this sort of thing again, the electrical tape trick will get deployed.
Noticed your "Tim Horton's' coffee cups ! 👍👍 Best coffee I ever drink at KAF !
The video about the pouring foam for Carbon fiber pasts was extremely helpful!!
Cheers
Timmies keeps us going! Glad the video was helpful.
That is such a glossy finish on that part! looks great!
Thank you! Cheers!
You have a great channel. I'm building a custom motorcycle and was browsing how to videos a while back and came across this channel.
Thanks - glad it helps.
Final part looks GREAT!
Thanks
This is great. As far as I know this is actually the only video anyone has ever produced on youtube where they actually walk through creating a rigid polyurethane foam form and finish it into a carbon fiber composite component. Here's a suggestion, next time you are considering the same set up, use interlocked silk jersey fabric instead of carbon fiber. It's more expensive but is lighter, stronger, sets up better, has a much wider array of color choices and is vastly more asthetic than carbon fiber when finished.
Thanks - I just thought it was an interesting solution to a little problem. I hope it's helpful.
That came out better than I thought. Looks good. Nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
"I have never wanted to know how to make Carbon Fiber parts with pourable foam, but here I am watching the video anyway.....
LOL - you never know.
Getting better and better as the build progresses
Hopefully.
Awesome idea, process, and part! I tinker with CF a bit, and I have a few suggestions. For the foam molding, mix a 1.5X required volume shot, and tape/cap the vent hole. It likes compression as it expands, and will yield a better consistency. The extra volume helps drive the compression. Check out smooth-on: they have great videos and info on pour foam, and OMG so many cool materials!
For the carbon, use the braided tube as your first layer, but use woven fabric as the top layer, such as a 2x2 twill, or spread-tow plain weave. The braid angle changes with the diameter of the shaft, which affects the braid cosmetics. The woven fabric will stay somewhat flatter for better faceting of the black bling. Wrapping the layup with peel ply will help level out the high/low spots, reducing sanding and sand thru. Also, composite envisions sells heat shrink tape that you can wrap around your part (just like the masking tape), which will shrink when you hit it with a heat gun, and give the layup significant compression.
Regardless, I'm impressed with your creativity, and inspired to try new processes! Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for the tips - I didn't see the compression tape on CE's website!
@@ThrottleStopGarage Anytime! Just type "1633" into the CE website search bar.
I work with the same materials, and I love your projects! A couple thoughts on the 2-part PU foam. First, read the warnings on breathing the vapors. I have lung cysts from not using a respirator while making several large parts in my shop with 2-part PU. I've also found that the foam needs to build up pressure to form a homogeneous, solid material, and the top pour hole bothered me (you could just pour the foam in 1 half, then close the mold in the vise). Still, your foam turned out awesome. Thanks for sharing your magic!
Thanks - I try to keep the PPE on and stay safe. I'm most likely not using this as the transmission options widened and I'm going in a different direction.
Nice work! That's a great looking final part that I'd be proud to have in my car.
Thanks! 👍
That knob at the end looks awesome! Looking forward to that video.
Thanks - it was a ton of fun to make.
I just love the shifter handle and the knob at the end is pretty nice as well. Maybe nicer than the first one. Keep up the good work!
Thanks 👍
Came out clean and nice. I like the DIY aspects of this part. Good entry into more complex carbon fiber esthetic parts. I started with flat sided pieces, but with carbon sheet being so cheap, this is the real 1st step.
Thanks
that turned out killer. Your work is always impressive.
Thanks - there were challenges for sure...but I'm happy with how it worked. I especially like that it disappears in the car - it's just black unless you look.
Haha great, I use this foam for a lot of stuff! Filling up moulds, making cores for hydrofoils, fitting fin boxes into surfboards, changing shapes of stuff and sticking stuff togheter. Ideal stuff!
It sure does come in handy.
So cool to watch you learn how to do all this stuff. It's inspiring me to do it myself now! Love it and keep up the good work!!
Thanks - and it's worth all the time to me if a person gets some value out of the work.
There will always be love and hate when you are a content creator.
Just remember, Haters go away, but true love for your content stay.
I like to test and do things my own way, even if everybody say its not good or good enough.
This is just my dummy acc, but i do make content my self so i know it might hurt sometimes.
Happy new year.
Thanks - I just posted the raw part not the cleared part - my fault. I could see that it was going to be fine. I've had my share of hate on this platform, so I really appreciate it when a fellow content creator comments. Sometimes people think there is some other guy making the content and doing the videos...it's just me.
its always fun watching your videos
Thanks - I appreciate the feedback.
There has to be a "polished knob" joke in here somewehere
Next video
@@ThrottleStopGarage dunno, is that legal in Canada?
@@geek49203 LOL
Nothing finer than a $10 shiner , with that work 😎
That was awesome. I even like the second shift knob.
Thanks
You do incredible stuff and explaining it the whole way - Makes me feel like I could give it a go even though I have zero idea what im doing.
Thanks. Learning on the fly!
You can use electrical tape and reverse wrap it with a 50% overlap. Gives nice even compression.
I wish I'd grabbed the electrical tape! Thanks for the tip.
What do you mean by "reverse wrap"? Do you lay the tape down with the sticky side out?
@@ddegn , yes you lay the smooth side down and start winding it around your part. It will compress the sleeve and force out excess resin as you go. I used the 2” wide tape as it gives you more area to work with. Don’t stretch the tape to tight just firm against your work.
@@Chris-okf Thanks for the reply. Hopefully I'll remember your tip if when it come time to wrap a sleeve.
When I attempted to Google "reverse wrap" I found instructions on making rope but your reply cleared up my confusion. Thanks again.
Electrical tape does indeed work and complies better to more funky shapes but you have to be very, very careful that you don't shift your laminate around. Maybe using peel ply would help mitigate that risk, though.
Very cool!I wish I had a neighbor like you. ☺️
Thanks, cheers.
This is super impressive! Awesome work! The final look is so good!
Thank you! Cheers!
Cool "little" project and awesome result. 😀👍
LOL - I can take any 15 minute task and make it three weeks of work. LOL.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Hahaha! 😂😂 Yeah well! Still appreciated by us fans. 😀😀 Merry Christmas!
Great job Craig. I enjoy all of your content.
I appreciate that!
I admit it looked pretty rough but the clear coat really made a huge improvement to the final look.
Totally agree
Nice job on the shifter!
Thanks!
Looks good thank you for your videos they have inspired confidence in me to start my own carbonfiber parts for my mustang shelby gt350r God bless you.
Glad to help
Nice finished product. Informative video. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
It would be cool to see an update video where you bring us up to date with where you think you are overall on the project, and what your schedule for completion looks like? Racing in springtime?
That's a good idea Mark. I'll see if I can cobble that together. Racing always...but not this car in the spring.
Looks great!
Thanks Andy.
Part looks beautiful
Thanks.
Im not so much into Cars anymore, but I do build and race RC Sailboats (AMYA) Your use of foam was very informative. Thanks for that.
I use a lot of Composite Envisions products,,,, you might even like their "House" resin.....the new formula is fantastic for Resin Infusion and Cheaper both in cost of the product and cost of shipping. I was a former user of Pro-Set resins. Again this video was prime. You have a new subscriber.
Cool - glad the video helped.
Great to see more and more channels using 3d printers for applications like these, did think it would be a bigger part though when i saw the title :D
I really don't know how I did some of these things without a 3D printer before. I just know having one unleashes a new world of possibilities.
@@ThrottleStopGarage having 2 resin printers (little elegoo mars and large anycubic photon X) and 2 ender3 and 2 CR10 for large prints, with a little glue or Fiber reinforcement, one can basically build anything imaginable,which is what i am working on.. can't wait to see what more custom stuff comes when this project is finished! Loving the channel
Another version of the handyman's secret weapon. Red Green would be proud!
How I'd love to end every episode with "Keep your stick on the ice!"
Interesting video. I have a couple of suggestions for you to help make life a little easier in the future:
1) For mixing small quantities of multi-part material use industrial syringes to get accurate liquid measurements. You can get the syringes at industrial supply stores. I use McMaster Carr down here in the US. You should check to see if McMaster is up there in Canada. If not, there is probably another source for industrial syringes.
2) When you are pouring liquid into a mold it is best to have a sprue (hole where the liquid goes in) at the bottom of the mold and vents (small holes or grooves where the air in the mold cavity can escape) at the top of the mold cavity or places in the mold cavity where air can get trapped as the liquid or foam rises in the cavity. This will greatly improve part quality and reduce voids in the final casting. In your case your mold parting line was imperfect enough (as indicated by the flash at the parting line) to allow air to vent out as the foam expanded in the mold cavity. So, you got lucky there.
Love the workbench. Your shop looks lived in.
Cool - thanks for the tips. Rather be lucky than good. I did finally clean the shop.
Thank you for all your videos ! I wisch you a nice christmas time a god new yeahr and stay healthy. From Switzerland Daniel
Thanks - and to you and yours. Locked down means I may make some progress.
Great job Craig! Looks like you had a lot of fun making it.
Thanks Paul.
Wow that looks like a bought one but better, can't wait to see what the car looks like when its all done..hopefully you have a second build in mind for when you are done
Second and a third
Thanks for the ideas. And yes... it looks fine. Could you have made it perfect, sure, but is the insane difference in time worth the effort?
Great point! No! It's not a very visible part and I'm happy with it.
Came out great! Couldn't you have 3d printed the part in two halves and carbon fibered over that instead?
I think that would work. I was worried about distortion long term from the printed plastic. Probably not a real problem. That is a good idea.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Good point, PLA wouldn't stand up to the heat of a summer car, but the carbon fiber would probably keep it in line.
Wow, I didn't even imagine this was possible. I am so stoked that I stumbled onto this channel.. I am now a subscriber and look forward to more great ideas and videos.
Awesome! Thank you!
Nice, I always wondered about using the expanding foam for parts, I was under the impression that once you pour the foam in you needed to cover/seal the opening, but I’ve only seen one ever application of it. Good job I like the finished product.
Worked pretty well...the second time! LOL.
I think you would seal the opening you use to add the foam, if you are relying on the expansion of the foam to force the foam into hard to reach places...in that case you will have a vent in the area you want the foam to flow into. Not having a vent is asking for trouble!
Torontonian here. Great channel. Will use this technique to make a custom cf canoe yoke.
Would love to help clean your shop.
Shop has been cleaned - stay tuned.
Little tip for you and the people watching is instead of peel ply and tape you can use heat shrink tube and then simply heat shrink it and you can get more or less usable parts straight off the shrink tube, it’s sort of semi gloss / semi satin finish.
Good luck.
Nice tip.
Very impressive I would of never thought of doing that.
There are some great tips in the comments for doing it better!
Composite heat shrink tape would have been your best friend for the replacement for the green masking tape. But it still turned out beautifully without it 🤘
Ya - Composite Envisions didn't have any and paying shipping on just the tape is eye-watering. LOL
Looking great. Merry Christmas! Waiting for the shift ball episode!
Coming soon!
awesome! both shift balls are cool to me... looking forward to seeing how you made it...
Coming soon!
I've used the 2lb stuff several times, and it always seems pretty random as to how much it expands. lol I'm glad you pointed out that this isn't like spray can foam. The 4lb stuff is supposed to be almost rock hard, but I haven't needed it for anything yet. Wow, I didn't know they made a carbon fiber sleeve like that. Looks like Techflex. lol
I only made the parts you see - but most of the rest of this kit was used by a friend to add a foam reinforcement to the front of a hood. It was consistent. The sleeve was harder to work with than it looks because the shifter twists - the weave won't twist - so the lines can't follow the part perfectly. It's also on the floor of my car LOL.
The "goose neck" looks really good. But not a big fan of the shift knop. Keep up the great content!
Did you watch until the very end?
@@ThrottleStopGarage Yes I did, just not my taste.
I just thought I'd mention, there IS a special heat shrink tape made for exactly this type of job! (I want to buy it just because I know it exists, but I don't need it for anything, yet...)
And as a rule, PVA shouldbe avoided with urethanes. Atleast when casting urethane plastics, they warn against using wood stirs and paper cups...because both can contain enough moisture to cause problems. However, since moisture typically causes bubbles, it isn't going to make much difference when pouring foam......
I know about the tape - no easy way to get it these days and not really worth the trouble.
R-G in germany make it, if you re from europe
Very informative and came out great. Pay no mind to the haters.
Thanks 👍
I'm working on something similar and I came across epoxy putty (Free Form Air HT for those wanting specifics). I'm thinking it will save time in 3D modeling and mold making and mashed sense for one offs.
I've used epoxy putty to make quick molds - it works great. I never thought to use it in this application.
Great work! Although I am a fan of that rugged bare industrial look you sought to hide, I do dig what you did.
Thanks. The interior vision is a work in progress.
Looks good, really simple and great fit.
Thank you!
Beautiful piece. Thanks for sharing.
Many thanks!
Awesome job! Your stick with knob looks great 🤣
Thanks! 😁
Man don’t you know that’s how your bench should look? Total disorganization all the time! I can’t anything when “put my stuff up” trying it to help lol
It does feel a lot better now that it's cleared up.
Nice improvement...good job!
Thanks!
wow - looks stunning. I really appreciate the lesson. Merry Christmas! 🎄🎄😎🎄🎄
Thank you! Cheers!
try mavcoat release agent, you will forever keep it around, boeing buys it by the 55 gal barrels. incredible build!
Pretty sure I can't get it in Canada - sounds good though. I do use Boeshield on exposed fasteners under cars.
That is seriously clever, and very cool.
Thanks.
Great job! I hadn't thought to use tube sheath like this. What clear did you use? Just curious.
You can't buy it anymore - it's not VOC compliant. It was made by UTech
Thank you for your videos! Soooooooo helpful, especially for beginners! Best regards! 🤝👍
Glad you like them!
beautiful awesome. what ever you touche turns out perfect
Or I dig a hole and bury it. Thanks!
IG is cancer. The part looks amazing and the wooden knob definitely finishes it off better than the original one.
I think it will all make more sense as the parts come together. It's hard to get a sense of the style of the car from watching these videos.
Nice work. I am excited that we'll start to see the car come together as a whole more in 2021. I'm also a fan of a shifter that isn't entirely covered with a boot. Keen to see the next shift ball vid. I can guess already how its done but certain there's some tips in there I haven't imagined yet.
Working on that video now - it's hard to see the style/vision that I have for this car. I have not been able to find an artist to render any of it. So it's just coming out of my head bit by bit.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Maybe send a message to TheSketchMonkey. He has a channel here on YT and the same on Insta. He's from Sweden and has a fondness for Volvo's and might be a chance for a crossover, if not certainly a credible commission request. Search his videos, I think he's made a take on the amazon. You can also try looking on Fivr lots of artists will render vehicles for an affordable price but it won't be a Foose original.
@@VacFink Thanks for the tip - I'll look him up.
Nicely done looks great. Looking forward to the next vid, cheers & Merry Christmas.
Thank you! Cheers!
That’s awesome, I think it turned out great !
Thank you!
Awesome work mate
Thank you! Cheers!
WOW, that's excellent work Craig. I must get a 3D printer. Have a great Christmas and happy new year. Ian in G.B
Hi Ian - I really think they're a "must have tool" these days. I've made so many parts for this car on my printer. There is a pretty steep learning curve - but with parametric CAD getting more intuitive, it's a real game changer.
Man that is really cool very informative!!!!!
Glad you liked it!
Loved that video man! Such a neat project
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@ThrottleStopGarage Also, HUGE thank you for the smallest tip ever. Cleaning the modeling clay has been the bane of my existence and I saw you use a bristle brush... So I added some dish soap, water, and used a bristle brush and it came off very quickly. Life saving, I swear!
Thanks for all the videos, learned a lot from them.
Can I use scotch spray mount for placing the carbon fiber fabric and why don't you use vinyl ester gel coat? In Easy composites tutorials they explain it helps for better release of epoxy parts.
You don't need to do much with the sleeves. Why use a gel coat for this part? Urethane clear is fine and a lot easier to deal with. I have some clear vinyl ester clear, but the urethane works great. There was only a 3D printed mold - so no need to mess around with gel coats.
@@ThrottleStopGarage My question was not for this part, making moulds with fiberglass for resin infusion.
Sorry, I should have mentioned this.
@@adithya_k93 no problem -makes more sense now. If I was making more parts or looking at a high-temperature in mold cure - then epoxy all the way.
That came out really nice. Is there a picture of it with the boot or installed?
Not yet - when we get to the installation stage.