PVA Application for Fiberglass Mold Making
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- Опубликовано: 29 окт 2020
- In this video - I have a quick look at the application of Poly Vinyl Alcohol to create a barrier as part of a mold release system for making fiberglass molds.
throttle-stop-garage.creator-... 
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Absolutely fantastic. I think we’ve all had our ups and down with PVA release film. I used you’re method and have had zero issues since. Thank you for the wonderful content as always.
Glad it helped!
Extremely helpful thank you!!! I tried spraying PVA today and it came out with orange peel! I turned the needle in, but definitely not enough! I am using a 1.8 tip IWATA. Tomorrow I will try to set the needle like you did. I was worried that my mold would have orange peel....so i washed it all off and went on youtube. Glad I found you
1.8! If you have a smaller fluid tip - like a 1.2 or 1.3 that's what I'm using. I've had zero issues with this technique and it adds no peel that I have to fix in the mold.
@@ThrottleStopGarage thanks for the reply! On the initial spray on your PVA, does it come off a bit textured, but then levels out when it drys? Thanks again
REALLY helpful. Thanks for the video. I've never used a gun before so I want to give this a try.
It works very well!
And here I thought this was going to be a repeat of what I already (thought) I knew. I’ll definitely be giving this a try on the next one!
I hope it helps - sure worked for me.
you do some great stuff mate.. love your updates.
Thanks.
Hey dude, I just wanna say -- I love your videos. I'm getting in to Carbon Fiber mold making and learning a lot from you
Glad to hear it!
Thanks! I knew I need a light coat, but my gun was set like yours...fill trigger. Going out to the shop to re-do the current PVA application!
Update: Turns out the fan setting is super important too. On my 3M primer gun (2.0 tip?), I needed 1.25 turns on the trigger, and 1 turn (half way) on the fan adjustment. First try was 1/2 turn on the trigger and fan was turned down, and I got a "speckled" surface of individual droplets. But after turning up the trigger and the fan, I got an evenly wet surface, but much thinner than what I have been doing up til now. I'm using the Partall PVA (purple).
Fingers crossed - hope this works.
Hope you and your family are well and thanks again for the interesting content
Thank you. I hope someone finds it useful.
Thanks for this video! Multiple light coats and you still get a nice gelcoat surface... I haven't used PVA much - mostly because of struggling to get good surface finishes - no doubt from too much PVA!
It's more about how you get the light coat. When I sprayed it before, it never really worked well. With the fluid needle almost closed, it's very fine. So far it's been flawless.
Awesome info will definitely remember this one in the future.
Glad it was helpful!
your typically informative and helpful video - many thanks for sharing
Cheers,
This is great. I've been so anti-pva simply because I've spent hours getting my plug/mold to a polished finish that PVA would destroy all that time invested. Might try this out!
I was in the same boat - it does work and does not cause the texture and mess that it did when I wasn't applying it correctly.
YESSS ANOTHER EPISODE WRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
Holy wars of mold making... Thats funny , and yes I was doing the same thing as and looking for a heavy coating colour
I was skeptical until I tried it - worked great every time.
Very nice
Hi Craig, like you i use chemical release agents, but seeing your video i will give the PVA a try on the next lay up. Hope your well. Ian in G.B
They have their place Ian - I had so much trouble getting the PVA perfect until I got this tip, I just had to share.
Hi! Thanks a lot for your interesting and useful videos. I have a question . What is the size of hole of pistol you use ? I bought pistol 4 mm. But it seems to me much.
The gun I used has a 1.4 mm fluid tip.
Awesome
Great video!!I was wondering, can PVA in your experience 'cover up' minor mold imperfections? Thank you!
Thanks. No, PVA is far to thin to cover up issues. Wax can cover scratches so long as they are light.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Thank you very much!!
Hello sir! Coud you give a link to shop with this PVA alcohol? Thank you in advance!
fibertek.ca/shop/fiberglass-materials/waxes-releases/pva-poly-vinyl-alcohol-release/
This is the material I was using.
What size of tip are you using? Have you ever sprayed mold gel coat with the same gun? I appreciate any info! Thanks!
The gun has a 1.3 mm tip. You need at least a 2.0 mm to spray gel coat.
@@ThrottleStopGarage But you spray it out of the same gun? I have several iwata guns including a 400. Thanks!!
@@specforged5651 I've got a cheap knockoff gun for spraying gel coat. I think I paid $20 for it. If I was doing it again - for sure 100% I'd buy a cup gun.
@@ThrottleStopGarage A cup gun huh? Ok maybe that’s what I’ll do. Im going to be doing a lot of gel coat molds so just want to go with the proper gear from the beginning. Thanks for the knowledge.
How did you diluted the PVA with water for spraying using gun? Thank you
No - shoot it as you get it.
Can the same formula be used in latex molds? (Actually, before casting, spray the inside of the mold with this method so that the latex does not stick to the statue)???
You'd have to test and see. I expect it would work, but I'm not an expert.
and im all caught up :P took me a while!
So, I'd better get the next video done!
@@ThrottleStopGarage too right !
nice
Hi, can you use any pva . ( From a builders / diy store for example ) ?. Thanks .
It's best to get the stuff that is used for making fibreglass moulds. It's cheap.
do you only using green wax or mix it with PVA? if you mix it, The ratio of combining them is equal??
PVA is sprayed without additions or reductions. It is normally applied over a waxed surface.
Nice
BTW why isn't your usual chemical release agent ok for 2-piece molds?
This is a complicated question. Chemical release agents can be used when making 2 part molds - sure. It is easier, in my opinion, to use wax and PVA. The PVA serves a couple of purposes - first, the mold you're bonding to is green (new) and styrene migration can be a problem. PVA prevents this. If you absolutely can't have the plug stick for any reason (like when I borrowed a trunk to make my mold - keep a friend - use PVA and be 100% sure.) use PVA over wax. It's a "Belt and Suspenders" sort of approach for a lot of things, but there are good reasons. In your other comment - my response - use proper mold release wax not car wax. While it may work - it may fail. Some also use exclusively if the plug is really big (like a boat) then you see it a lot. Anyway - it works - this is how you spray it.
@@ThrottleStopGarage yeah, fair enough that PVA is a "just to be sure" extra step. however I think a lot of people get into the habit of always using it when it's really not needed, and can easily get a worse finish and have a stickier mold release because of the PVA. good to know that it can be sprayed on well though. thanks!
agree 100% that car wax isn't a good plan - that would be a crazy false economy after spending so much time on plugs and molds. honey wax 100 and miracle gloss #8 (used to be made by meguiars?) are mold release waxes, as was the other carnauba wax (I got that wrong - not bees apparently) that I've tried. all worked fine. FWIW so far I prefer the honey wax 100.
one other thing is that I tend to make epoxy molds (and parts) - perhaps styrene isn't so much of an issue with epoxy resins as it is with polyester? - but also I rarely get around to using a mold soon after I make it either (just no time).
I should try a chemical release agent one day.
anyway, just my 2c. not a holy war :) keep up the good work!
@@plaguedbypenguins Try a chemical release - they work great.
What is the needle size?
It's a 1.4 mm. I've also used my touch up gun that is a 0.8 mm - works great.
How dangerous is PVA? I read some comments on Easy Composites channel, and someone was blasting them for not taking proper precautions.
It's not particularly dangerous.
Can't you use this on top of locktight release
I don't see why not.
Bro thanks for the quick reply you're the man. I have a 1.4 gun and I'm going to do a small test to get the technique down. Building a carbon spray dodger for my sailboat and want the inner skin to pop. Outside is faired and painted. It's a big layup 8feet across. If it pops ill give you cred I'm more on tiktok on shorts
@@boattalk1089 sounds like a cool project. Hope it works out.
LOL, I guess I was doing it SO wrong years ago when I experimented with composites. My molds ended up looking like they were shrink-wrapped in heavy-duty green saran wrap. And it would peel off in one piece when I removed it. LOL
And it never had texture and you never got runs either. LOL
@@ThrottleStopGarage I was operating on the more must be better theory - texture and runs for miles. LOL Thanks for showing the proper way of doing this, in case I ever come to use these materials again.
Difficult to know if your application is good though when you can barely see it.
Part of the learning curve.
Indeed - it's there, you can see the shine after a few mist coats.
try it with no PVA.
I have gloss plugs & molds, use 7 to 10 layers of honey wax 100, no PVA, and the parts pop out with literally zero effort and perfect finish.
I'm making motorbike fairings. so smaller than your volvo panels, but far more complex shape with NACA ducts & much sharper curves and edges etc.
same with a macguires miracle-something wax, and an unknown bees wax thingy too.
Nice spray gun though, didn't cheap out there.
It'll make a novice look good.
@@ThrottleStopGarage definitely, I use the orange and clear caps for base coat and clear. Good jack of all trades gun. And won't break the bank
Just use alcohol (95%) at 70% to thinning and filter it
I just cover it in duck tape then lay fiberglass nothing sticks to duck tape
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