Just got done doing all three on the passenger side of my 2004 Yukon with electronic climate control. The passenger side blend door and recirc/fresh air actuators were pure hell. I did manage to swap them all without breaking anything or cutting anything up. My arms and wrists are paying the price and my 16 year old daughter laughed at some of the choice words that came out of my mouth. I took the dash top off, and unbolted and pulled aside what I think is the Onstar module or SAT radio module, silver box with Motorola stamped on it. This gave me enough room to work along with my daughter using the prybar when I told her to. Had to run to Harbor Freight for a Quinn low profile 1/4” ratchet and I cut down a magnetic impact 5.5 mm bit to help fit in there for the PS blend door. It took longer than I wanted to, but everything works like it should now. The issue I was having was a knock in the dash and the blend doors weren’t producing full AC or heat when needed. Problem solved.
@@quinteros0114 It could be a bad module. You can usually find a used one in a Junk Yard or you can reach out to my buddy Les Baller and he can ship you one. If you're on Facebook search for Les Baller and send him a message about it.
That top screw will give you nightmares. My problem was everytime I went to back up the ratchet the screw would loosen instead of repositioning the ratchet for another bite. Aggravating. So I put in just the bottom screw and then jammed one of the kinds foam rubber balls up in there. Been like that for 6 years now. The fan speed resistor is another fun project but nowhere near as bad as that actuator screw. A few years ago I found the perfect tool for that screw. It's called a Titereach. Its tough to explain what it is. But basically its a bar with a chain drive inside. You put your socket or bit on one end of the tool and at the other end, which is about 6" away you can use whatever you want to turn it. You can use a drill, impact, ratchet, breaker bar, or anything with a 1/4" square drive to turn it. You hold the bar stationary and rotate the mechanism. The chain drive rotate the socket or bit on the other end. They make it in 3/8ths or 1/4" drive. I use a Titereach to get to the ac lines on the back of the AC compressor in my C5 Corvette. They thought it would be a great idea to mount the AC compressor down under the engine on the passenger side.
No sir, not a 30 minute job when you have big hands, tools required, long reach 72 tooth 1/4" drive ratchet, 7mm socket, long screw driver to apply the tension on the old actuator when removing and last but not least ibuprofen for the couple of days.
No sir but I did a retrosound head unit into a 5 channel amp, 10" sub and amplified door speakers all Kicker stuff. The door speakers sound great but I need some more bass.
There are 3 actuators on the evaporator. This one controls air recirculating, there’s one in the middle (between the radio and glove box) that controls the temp and one near the gas pedal that controls the mode.
Just got done doing all three on the passenger side of my 2004 Yukon with electronic climate control. The passenger side blend door and recirc/fresh air actuators were pure hell. I did manage to swap them all without breaking anything or cutting anything up. My arms and wrists are paying the price and my 16 year old daughter laughed at some of the choice words that came out of my mouth.
I took the dash top off, and unbolted and pulled aside what I think is the Onstar module or SAT radio module, silver box with Motorola stamped on it. This gave me enough room to work along with my daughter using the prybar when I told her to. Had to run to Harbor Freight for a Quinn low profile 1/4” ratchet and I cut down a magnetic impact 5.5 mm bit to help fit in there for the PS blend door. It took longer than I wanted to, but everything works like it should now. The issue I was having was a knock in the dash and the blend doors weren’t producing full AC or heat when needed. Problem solved.
Very helpful, that's the worst one to get to, but man you made it look easy
Thanks! Man it was super tight. What sucks is I had this dash out about 6 months ago and should have done it then.
What can I do if I have power to the ac module but none of the buttons work please help me(1992 gmc sierra single cab)
It would work before but randomly stopped I check the fuses but none are blown
@@quinteros0114 It could be a bad module. You can usually find a used one in a Junk Yard or you can reach out to my buddy Les Baller and he can ship you one. If you're on Facebook search for Les Baller and send him a message about it.
That top screw will give you nightmares. My problem was everytime I went to back up the ratchet the screw would loosen instead of repositioning the ratchet for another bite. Aggravating. So I put in just the bottom screw and then jammed one of the kinds foam rubber balls up in there. Been like that for 6 years now. The fan speed resistor is another fun project but nowhere near as bad as that actuator screw.
A few years ago I found the perfect tool for that screw. It's called a Titereach. Its tough to explain what it is. But basically its a bar with a chain drive inside. You put your socket or bit on one end of the tool and at the other end, which is about 6" away you can use whatever you want to turn it. You can use a drill, impact, ratchet, breaker bar, or anything with a 1/4" square drive to turn it. You hold the bar stationary and rotate the mechanism. The chain drive rotate the socket or bit on the other end. They make it in 3/8ths or 1/4" drive. I use a Titereach to get to the ac lines on the back of the AC compressor in my C5 Corvette. They thought it would be a great idea to mount the AC compressor down under the engine on the passenger side.
Exactly what my '94 is doing. Thanks for the video and tutorial.
No sir, not a 30 minute job when you have big hands, tools required, long reach 72 tooth 1/4" drive ratchet, 7mm socket, long screw driver to apply the tension on the old actuator when removing and last but not least ibuprofen for the couple of days.
the relief cut worked great, good ideal.
Another great episode!! Thank you!!
Right to the point! I love that!
You saved me a ton of time!! Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO !!! This will keep me from using cuss words!
Yes sir ive had that problem. Now ill try to replace it .thankyou
Very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you kind sir! 👍😁👍
thanks 👍👍 the help me alot 👌👌
When you clocked the actuator by turning key on was the door down or up when you installed it?
Thank you so much!! I can repair it myself． From Japan
How's the 90s Chevy truck scene in japan??
Great video
so it is ok to turn it on while it is not setup but the harness should be connected?!?
Yes, it's very slow moving and it was the easiest way to clock the actuator so it went right back into place.
Do you have a video on your stereo setup?
No sir but I did a retrosound head unit into a 5 channel amp, 10" sub and amplified door speakers all Kicker stuff. The door speakers sound great but I need some more bass.
What could be the problem if the belt come off when fan is on max?Could it be the compressor?
If the belt is coming off one of the pulleys might be misaligned. It could be the compressor
Dude!!!!!!!
Will this actuator stop the air from blowing out of the climate control
Just replaced mine still no heat coming out
There are 3 actuators on the evaporator. This one controls air recirculating, there’s one in the middle (between the radio and glove box) that controls the temp and one near the gas pedal that controls the mode.
Yea I just unplugged mine lol
Get it right for your lady!
That’s right!!
Man I can’t get that top bolt I’ve gave up twice already
Man that’s one is a doozy. I think the only way I could get it off is with a fine tooth quarter inch ratchet.
@@yeahbuddygarage yea ima try finding one that is somewhat slim because that’s another issue for me
I call BS.
Thanks. Very informative.