Chevrolet C/K truck mode and blend door actuator replacement
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Here's a video covering a common repair issue on GM C/K series trucks.
If you are having problems with no heat, no cooling or air coming out from the wrong place and you've confirmed that the control panel isn't burnt up, then chances are you have a failed actuator.
Air door actuators are cheap and fairly easy to replace on these vehicles. However, ensure that the control panel IS functioning and sending commands to the suspect actuator before condemning it.
There are three actuators which do three different things, so make sure you have identified which one is defective before buying a replacement.
1. Mode door: Mounted on end of case near driver's right foot. Controls where airflow comes out at.
2. Blend door: Mounted on rear(tailgate side) of case roughly behind the ashtray. Controls how hot or cold air is.
3. Recirculate door: Mounted on top of case, very hard to access. Controls whether air is fresh or recirculated. Most people don't bother replacing it.
WARNING: DO NOT "TEST" ACTUATORS WITH THEM DETACHED FROM THE HVAC BOX!!! THEY WILL OVERTRAVEL AND BE OUT OF INDEX AS YOU'LL SEE IN THE VIDEO. YOU CANNOT REPAIR THIS EASILY, SO ALWAYS HAVE THE ACTUATOR MOUNTED TO THE BOX BEFORE ANY KIND OF TESTING TAKES PLACE.
ALSO, INSPECT THE FLAPS THEMSELVES TO ENSURE THAT THEY ARE NOT HANGING UP. AS WE ALL KNOW ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE WITH GM.
You MISSED the point, which is....this is my channel, my videos, and I talk as much as I want. Get...over...it. Maybe you would rather pass the time sitting to write a check while somebody else repairs your truck instead of you. You got this help for free Mr. Impatient, be glad you did.
11 years later you’re still helping people, and at 15 below zero with no defrost working this has been very helpful. Thank you.
I have been driving without ac for almost 6 years.
How bless you.
Well done, Tyler. You helped me out and your prohibition regarding 'testing' it while unmounted was a thoughtful warning.
Thank you for this video.
I already had to replace the blend door actuator (passenger side), and there are a lot of videos on that, but not a lot that explain the drivers side one.
This will help me diagnose my issue - I bought a 1997 Suburban 5 months ago and the air comes out all 3 locations no matter which selection is chosen. It will “favor” the selection that matches the control switch, but still comes out the other two locations.
This video helped me figure out that the door is probably just tipped a few degrees the wrong way, so that it’s not fully capping off the other two.
Now to go figure out if that’s actually the case!
Really helpful and well explained The mode door on my '98 Silverado has been slowing going bye-bye for a couple of years and I wasn't sure what was causing the issue. Thanks to your video, I know what the problem is and how to make repairs with relative ease. And, your price information was right on-$39 at a local auto parts dealer!
Appreciate the well-done tutorial! :-)
Thank you very much.
Spot on bro! I replaced my control panel when this happened. I went to adjust the AC on afternoon in my 99 Tahoe and it got stuck on defrost. I fiddled with the knob and push in a bit and it finally worked again. So when it did it again a few weeks later and DIDN'T ever get off defrost, I figured the control was bad. I tried the "turn the key to accessory mode a few times, remove the key to reset the system" with no luck, disconnected and reconnected the battery with no luck as well. Got a used control panel of eBay and it functioned the same as the original. So, I was in the forums, etc. and was looking at the different actuators. I knew it wasn't the blend b/c the temp was fine, so I went to my local pull-a-part, removed one off a similar model, spent 5 minutes unhooking the old one and installing the new one and tada!!!!! Now get heat on my feet! 15 degrees the other day and my face was on fire while my feet were on ice! They run about $40 new for my Tahoe and the Pull-a-part sold it for $18 with environmental fees and tax included.
Yours is the ONLY video I could find on the MODE door actuator and I'm very appreciative. I'd have never known where to find it or how to approach the job. Thanks!
Everyone make sure you pay attention to the 7/32" nut size. That back one is IMPOSSIBLE to remove without one! Ha.
Cheers!
Thank you so much. Just trying to right a wrong, lol.
I'm glad to help!
It has shocked me how many people seem to be having problems with these. However, it's an easy fix after you understand what those little troublemakers do.
It sounds like you either have issues with the mode door actuator, or, sometimes, the mechanism of the door itself can act up, so check those carefully. That's the deal that's by your gas pedal foot.
The other one you mention behind the ashtray area is the blend door, and that one controls the temp. So, no need to mess with it unless you can't get COLD or HOT air. Thanks for watching.
Very helpful
Excellent video. More information than I found in all others combined. I've changed out the blend door actuator and can now select hot or cold air. Did have to disconnect battery for 15 min and let it "learn" new actuator. Mode actuator is next. 02 Escalade.
Before you replace the actuator, check the flaps and make sure one of the springs that are hooked to the actuator isn't enabling a sticky flap. A new actuator didn't fix my problem until I unstuck the flap.
Just changed mine on my 97 Z71. This video was very very helpful.
Thank you sir.
I'm glad you explained the difference in all three motors. I'm needing to order one but didn't know what to call it. Thanks.
thanks so much for the fast reply... its great to have helpful guys like yourself here on the internet... thanks again.i will look into it this coming week.
Wish I found this sooner. I have the same truck and you explains a lot of possible problems and how to fix them.
Mode actuator is by gas pedal, temperature actuator is pretty much above the ash tray (hidden) and blend door actuator is passenger side way back by the firewall
I am new at posting comment so forgive me as i learn.The syndicated brothers car/talk could not help a lady with that knocking noise. It still occurs as you walk away from the car.or just fooling around with the control system knobs and features.Any way your video enabled me to have her guns loaded when dealing with the service righter,they messed her around so much she did not have the extended warranty But the coded the repair and G M ate it near 1k in the book.Thank you so much with all yado
Awesome ! my 95 started blowing on the freaking floor a few weeks ago..lol, didn't know about these actuators. Now I know it's the problem. Head'n to parts store now.
thx
Same, here Followed this to the tee and fixed my problem in just a few minutes. Thanks for this video. I have a 98 Tahoe that did the same thing earlier this week. I had no idea what was wrong and considered taking it to the dealer until I saw this. Thanks Man.
Great vid dude. I haven't had to look at a heater actuator since the old vacuum actuation valves were the common problem. I Haynes manuals don't even mention the actuators. This is a great service to your fellow gear heads!
Great video. Lots of helpful information. You answered every question I had and now I'm ready to tackle this little job.
bossmack187 Awesome. It's quite easy.
This is exactly whats wrong with my truck...thanks for the simple video...saved me tons of money
A con grads on your sell of the house.This video and another on my daughters 2009 was a great help on her having her gun loaded when the top servo (outside to recirculate)top one the hardest to get to.Funny once you here that continuous knocking sound by design to let the any door entry to occur without a too airtight cab.An ac/delco rep told us in about early 90`s on those think like mid 70`s truck doors was so hard to shut you could pop the glass out.He said they would still honor that recall
You're welcome. The most difficult part of the blend door motor is getting access to loosen the bolts. You may have to end up removing the ashtray and/or power outlets.
Thanks for the descriptive video. Very helpful. when you said shut the HVAC down in addition to shutting off the ignition to replace the actuator door, did you mean shutting it down by the switching it off or removing the fuse for HVAC?
thank you sooooo much for this video!!!! had nooooo idea what so ever what controlled were the air went .... didnt even know what to type to look for lol... just googled some stuff like blower motor some how ran across your video>>> watched it .. ran to orileys ... bought the part .. put it in.. worked great!!!!!...... great video man!!! thank you!
I think this was a very well done demonstration and explanation of what and what not to do . thank you
Thank you so much! My son now has AC and Heat and is no longer stuck on defrost!
It has to move more than that. That one is the blend door actuator. If you remove it and work the blend door by hand you'll get cold or hot air.
On my truck I hear a vent door opening and closing on its own. I havent had a close look yet but I think it's the second one you mentioned above the glove box. I hope it's that one that's acting up? My AC works but not well because of this issue
Great info. Thanks very much.
You just helped me fix my HOT!! Wife ☀️😡😰Ever since we bought our 98 Yukon it's been blowing hot all year! Not anymore thanks to you it's ice cold❄️⛄️ 😅
Awesome! No more 460 air conditioning.
La
Thank you very much for this video!! Now I know what's wrong with my ac!! Will be fixing it this weekend.
Hannah, on the dual control climate controls, if one side still blows cold and the drivers side blows hot, you need to replace the actuator that is for the drivers side. It is actually just to the right of the transmission hump under the dash. I need to replace one in my truck, but I've been told it is a half hour job.
I love working on car HVAC systems.
This seems like something people will screw up a lot on. Good video, now I know if I ever have to deal with one of these. Which I might because the floor vent on our Bonneville stays partially open at all times. Not going to mess with it now, though.
I like these early/mid 90's Chevy trucks. I was thinking about getting one when I get a truck, you seem to like them and have had a couple.
Thanks so much for the help. I have been trying to figure this out for some time. I really appreciate it. Good job, my kinda easy to understand mechanic.
Yes. It should apply to all GM trucks from '88 through to the last old-body Tahoe/Suburban.
Make sure you heed the warning about having the actuator mounted on the box before activating it.
My blend door actuator went out in the middle of hot and cold selection. The AC would not blow very cold and then winter hit and froze my ass off because no hot air. That flap door was not closed to allow heat to be drawn from the heater rad. Took that lousy bulky plastic cover off the bottom and the actuator was wedged close to the carpet floor. It did not cost me anything to repair the actuator. I took it apart for inspection. The main diode, a 1N4004 was faulty. I just happen to have one in my parts supply to swap out. Next main task was to realign the gears in the actuator. Took forever to get it indexed again. Finally got it like it suppose to be and installed it. Works perfect again. A pain in the ass was to put back the large bottom cover.
since you pointed out that both actuators are the same i was able to swap them around and determine that tje conyrol unit was bad. tjanks!
On one of these trucks? I had one do that, and it turned out to be a problem with the blend door not closing all the way.
That's the one right at the heater core above the passenger foot area. You can pull the cover off and look up at it easily. It might also be the actuator for that door as well.
After I repaired it I had scorching hot heat, but I sure froze until then.
My 06 Pontiac Torrent had the blend door stuck on air conditioning. The blend door actuator is a electric motor
Where the Motor shaft plugs in was a flimsy plastic socket that was broken. Think of a plastic socket wrench. I'm amazed it lasted as long as it has. I have a extra heater ordered. I have a 93 Subaru Legacy that's not junk. If its really cold I will drive it.
10yr old video is a lot of help. Thanks
I was about to pay 800$ to a repair shop. Bought this part at Autozone and it worked
Yes. They are known to burn up and when that happens they either burn up partially or all the way.
The way to diagnose this is to use a good digital multimeter on the correct scale(usually 20v) and disconnect the connector at the actuators. With the key on and the HVAC controls being operated, you should see voltage changes at the connectors.
If you don't then you can be pretty confident the panel is DOA. Check G M parts direct.
No no....there are a total of three different, distinct actuators. There is a blend door actuator, a mode actuator and a fresh air/recirc actuator.
So, when you go to get the part, ask specifically for a mode door actuator. Remember that "mode" controls WHERE the air comes out at.
If you pull the actuator and run it through controls and it moves too far why cant you just stop it, move it back the other direction until it lines up the way you tool it off?
old video but great information on the last step to get my heating and cooling control working again , i only thought there were two of these gizmo's and hopefully it the one by the steering wheel that needs replacing as mine is doing the same thing. the part stores are crazy prices i ordered mine from amazon $22. bucks i hope this finally fixes everything .
Oh yeah...they are go out at one point or another. Are you talking about the actuator that's sort of above the passenger floorboard area? That should be the bland door..regulates the temperature.
It's either that or the recirc actuator.
I have an 01 Buick Century with a bad air diir actauator. I;ve been working on getting it out for two days. Nightmare tight spot work on. For a tall woman with a small upper body theres no room to work. I dont know how mechanics do it. Thanks fo rthe useful info.
Thank you so much. I hope to get my truck back in correct repair.
Thanks a million! And did you say that the 'Blend' Door and the 'Mode' door are the same part? So if i go buy a mode door and they sale me a blend door I shouldnt worry? thanks in advance!
You can actually pull your glove box and cut a square hole into the plastic box itself to see if your blend door is actually working, just seal it back up afterwards. When you look inside you can see it lift up and down, down is cool up is heat. I hit mine too hard by accident when I was listening for it to close thinking it may be jammed while I heard and seen it turning. The actuator on my 95 suburban is behind the right side of the ash tray which is blocked by the dash and a PIA to remove. Regardless, i now have heat somehow and my door is working without having to remove the actuator.
You need to check the panel to find out whether it's sending voltage signals to the actuators first. You use a volt meter on the disconnected harness at the actuator. Don't remove the actuator and let it hang while you see if it works..that gets them out of calibration and then for sure you have to replace it.
I rigged it for the summer, running a toggle switch to the ac compressor relay. Worked like a charm! lol
I thought something was stuck in mine because my truck sat up for a while when I blew the motor. It pays to watch youtube videos Thanks for the info
I had the recirc door motor strip on mine. That was a pain to get to. I think there was some writeup about a way to remove it from under the dash. Its sandwiched against the firewall bad. I still have it only screwed on with one fastener as the top fastener is REALLY hard to get to.
Great video man. Thanks for all the info in one place!
Thanks for thr video. I have a '98 and it seems like the whole thing went kaput at the same time - lost the blower motor and resistor circuit for speed control, temperature control works, door actuator doesn't function properly so I can't get the main front vents to blow and now my AC is stuck on so I unplugged under the hood at the AC compressor. I guess I'll also need the door actuator like you showed and maybe a control panel as well.
superturboawesome1 That's some bad luck...the problems aren't surprising but usually GM designs it so they happen at regular intervals instead of all at once.
You can test them with a 9 volt battery positive to terminal terminal 5 negative to terminal 7 if it doesn't run jump 6 & 7 with positive that will reset it
Thanks for the video it was very helpful with changing my 02 Tahoe mode actuator.
Thank you for making this video. It was very helpful.
I LOVE this video, thank you soooooo much. But I have other problems and need to talk to you about it (about the actuator)
Excuse mah cups haha 😂 .. great video man thanks! .. bout to head to the parts store!
I’m jealous of that un-cracked dash.
Well done, helped out a bunch, thanks for taking time to make video.
Thanks for the quick reply . I'm going to buy the two I can get to..I think the top is working fine
Artie
Tyler you solved my problem!! Thank you for all the info, I changed my actuator and it's blowing nice and cold where it should be.
Awesome...
Well in these instances, you go back to whatever you did that changed the way something worked. In this case it was the blower motor...so I would revisit the installation and make sure you didn't make a minor mistake or overlook something.
Also sometimes I share this, the Bible says that GOD loves us so much that he sent his son JESUS CHRIST to this earth and HE lived a perfect sinless life.And JESUS went to a cross and gave HIS life for us.And rose again in 3 days and who ever will receive JESUS AS THEIR SAVIOR AND ASK HIM TO COME INTO THEIR HEART AND FORGIVE THEIR SINS,HE WILL TAKE YOU TO HEAVEN.
Thanks for the info my just started blowing to the floor and the defrost. Going to get one now and change it. Thanks.
What is the part name? Mine is doing the same
Thanks for the instructions, gonna give this a try on my 01' Sierra this week. hope it works
Great video. Question: In 2005 GMC Sierra, when heat is on, the driver's side vents blow cold & the passenger side blows hot, is this caused by the same actuator you replaced?
This problem only occurs when temps get below 30 degrees. After the truck gets really warm something kicks in and the heat starts blowing on the driver side. Sometimes I drive for an hour before it blows hot.
Did yours have a SLOW engagement of the change over from the dash defrost vents to the upper front vents? Mine does it, The flapper door is slow to change and when it does it goes "SLAP"
Mine only coms out the defrost and a little out the top vents all the time no change nuthing on the floor what do I have to replace and where is it located thanks
If you can't control where the air is coming out of (mine was always blowing out the face vents) check the vacuum tubes under the hood: a 7/32" line comes off top of engine and heads toward ABS module, then splits into two 5/32" lines- one goes through firewall, one goes to charcoal canister nipple in front driver fender area- hard to find. These vacuum lines get dry-rot, then your cabin air direction controls, controlled by the vacuum lines, go kaput.
That actually helped... I need to check out my nephews truck blend door actuator.
Exactly what I was looking for!
Guess I should have watched your video before I thru a fit and started beating on the panel with the nearest object. (A hammer). LOL I have a 99 Chevy Suburban 2500, same set up. One day the ac light stopped coming on, but if I wiggled the panel just right it would come back on. Thats when I noticed the panel and the entire dash pretty much, was loose and had been messed with by the previous owner. No the air only blows on the floor, and the air is lukewarm only. Its 100 degrees outside now.
Man thank you for the info , I had the same problem and after watching your video I fixed it !!! I live in Florida so air conditioning is a Must
my truck switches from def to floor fine and blows good but it wont get hot..Out side hoses are hot si I:m assuming the blend door is stuck? or the blend actuator is out? so I should get the BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR right?
Very helpful especially for ordering the part. How and what kind of lubricant would you use if the door needs it?
This was a very helpful video thanks for making it my truck was doing the exact same thing.
my 2004 Chevy SUV has the dual controls where the driver side will suddenly blow Screaming hot air in the summer, (when you need AC). it sounds like my issue might be the "blend door" - does that sound like a good guestimate to you?
Thank you so much for providing this information, it fixed my problem!!
Blend door controls hot or cold...your problem sounds like the mode door actuator which is the one I replaced in this video. Rule about not running them detached from the box still applies.
My 02 Suburban has a similar "issue". When I direct the flow to feet/floor it's all fine. If I direct the flow to dash or dash PLUS floor I can hear a door clunk noise as if the door is "trying" to move & moves for a while then falls back out of position.
Does that sound like the same issue?
Thanks.
Mine is NOT dual climate control or the electronic control where you set temp & it does the rest. It is almost identical to yours only 2002.
:)
@WhoSaidTyler Thanks. I will check both. If the price is right for the parts, I may just replace both.
Thanks for the video! my mode door motor has died I'm pretty sure so I'll be doing this shortly
Can you tell me why my blower motor only works on the high speed ? the lower 3 settings do nothing ? Thanks
Thanks man! Sometimes my truck will stay on the floor and not come our then vents and have to wait like 5 mins and a tap on the dash makes it come kit the Pannel
Awesome video. Love the thorough details
Very helpful and full of great advice. Thanks a million.
Thanks a lot, I am diagnosing my heating issues right now and I am pretty sure it is the blend door, but I have a question. So when I shift from inside circulation to out side air I hear everything shifting and working fine. Is that what the blend door does? How do I check if it is the blend door or something else. I didnt quite understand what part you where referring to that sits underneath the controls on the dash board.
Replaced all three of them on my Chevy impala with the part from the parts store. Problem I found is the parts store sell the generic actuator, I had to order OEM from Delta to get a part made for my car.
when you said shut the HVAC down in addition to shutting off the ignition to replace the actuator door, did you mean shutting it down by the switching it off or removing the fuse for HVAC?
After watching your video I found out the same actuator you changed is failing on me. I can hear a ticking coming from it. I smacked it once and it stopped ticking. The problem I was having is when I had set to face only it was throwing air through face and the feet.. Hopefully with a new one it doesn't do that anymore
The gears strip out
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage actually upon opening it I saw that the gears where all intact. My theory is the motor kept skipping. Because the new one doesn't do that
Most likely the panel. I would confirm system charge and also see if a command is being sent to the compressor to turn on during the times that it isn't responsive before you spend the money for a control panel.
You may also be able to repair the panel yourself.
Thank for this video. I assumed that since mine moved, it was still good and something other issue existed. I"l be replacing mine tomorrow. Thanks again, great video.
You have actuators just like the later trucks. I had a 1993 Chevy that was my favorite of all.
thanks for the video, this has some good tips, going to replace my drivers blend door on 2004 tahoe. LYK how it goes
do you know how to put it back into index, because mine is out of index....thank you great video...