I just removed mine this morning. Couldnt figure out why it wouldnt close to the front blower fully. Dismantled the mode actuator to find a busted gear. Thanks for the lesson on your video i was able to gently remove it and protect the rest of the system for a new actuator when it arrives.
Thanks for the tips! I used several different tips from people in the comments, and here’s my experience with mine. Mine was stuck on defrost. First before you do anything, pull out the HVAC fuse for one minute and put it back in and turn your key to auxiliary on, just before start, and let your flaps all adjust for 30 seconds to see if that fixes your problem. If it doesn’t , then it is time to put in a new one.
Pull the hvac fuse back out. Move your drivers seat as far back as possible. Push your parking brake all the way down to give you room for your head, you’re going to need it. Remove the vent tube and maneuver it to rest behind the brake pedal. If you have a LED bar light, place it on the floor behind the brake pedal so that you can use both hands to your best ability.
Unplug your module Remove the upper and lower screws, which will be tough. Luckily for me I had a very small quarter inch ratchet set with a shorter extension that allowed me to remove the screws. Some also suggested using a 6mm Allen wrench in the back of the socket to get the top screw out. You can either use a 5.5 MM socket, or you can use a 7/32 socket. Carefully wiggle the control module out, sliding it downward and toward the left, will help get it loose from the white gear on the upper right. Compare the position of your new module to the old module, mine was not the same, if you look on the new module, it should show anywhere from 3 to 5 lines, there is a line on center of the flange which kind of points to what position the new module is set in. Mine looked to be set on the fourth position which is defrost/floor. So I moved my control setting on the dash to the defrost and floor setting.
I carefully used my fingers to pull the new flange off of the new motor on the new module. Once you pull the flange off, you can see that it has flat spots on the motor to line the flange back up when you put it back on. After you have removed the flange from the module, install the flange piece under the dash by itself, slide it in by moving from left to right upward just the optway that you took it out to help capture the white gear, you have to put the flange in at a slight angle and wiggle it around until you fill it all click into place. You should notice when everything falls into place. It becomes more snug against the plastic that it is lies up against.
Then put the new motor in while lining it up with the center of the flange to the backside of the motor and pushing them together with your fingers which should line up your top and bottom screws. Put the top screw in first by either using the socket itself with the screw in it or if you can possibly work it in a little bit with your fingers and until you can get it tight enough to get the socket on it and finish tightening it up. I tried to get the holder tab for the control wire back on, but it was causing too much issue with getting the top screw in so I just left that out and left it loose, it doesn’t appear that it will interfere with anything if you leave it loose.
I then put in the bottom screw and tightened it back up. Wiggle the new piece a little bit to make sure that both screws are tightened, you do not want to overtighten them, but you also want them to be tight enough to hold the unit firmly. Plug your control module back in. Hook your vent tube back up. Release your parking break. Replace the fuse back into the fuse, panel for the HVAC. Make sure your fan is shut off, just so you can hear the flaps adjusting. Now turn your key to accessories on, or just before start, and you will hear your flaps begin calibrating. I waited about 3 to 5 minutes to make sure they were fully adjusted, then I turn my key back off and then I started my truck up and turned my fan on to see where my vents would be blowing from. It instantly began blowing from the defrost/floor setting like the knob on the dash of as set at.
I just changed mine. Really easy. When putting back in just make sure the lines are centered in the middle that's for the dash and leave it on dash before plugging it in. The top peg just move it up and slide the new piece in. It will "pop" in and the holes will lign up
@@tylerfelver9482 After further investigation, I found the blower motor fan was clogged up with 20yrs of leaves and dirt. I changed it out with a new one and air flow is back to normal. It's worth checking the blower fan first. Pain in the ass getting to the inside screw..good luck :)
I'm young and scrawny and I STILL had to take the whole dash apart just to get to this stupid thing! And then after that I couldn't get a socket wrench or a nut driver to fit in that awkward little space to get the thing unscrewed! I feel incredibly accomplished just getting the part *off*, and that's only half the job. Thanks so much for this video!
Tucson AZ i know what you mean about weather. Its getting cold now at night. Got to swap mine out as well because its stuck on face mode. I need defrost now. 😂
I got mine out about 4 years ago but never put a new one in. It was hard and crap to get out. I'm not sure how to set it back to the face blow setting though. But I need to get this done before winter.
What exactly did you do to the gears after you maxed it out? I think I did that cause I tested it out plugged in, not installed, and once I selected defrost the actuator turned all the way to one side and never moved back when selecting a different mode.
That is exactly what I did, I took the actuator case of and inside you will see the arm is on a rotating gear I took the arm and gear and rotated it back the the original position. Then put the cover back in and finished the install.
Getting ready to do this on a '15 Cad ATS -- dealer wants to pull the dash for $2k!!! I may have to cut something out with a dremmel and epoxy it back in. BTW, I saw you can connect a 9v battery to it to move it to match your old position....or open and swap the bad gear...or whatever.
Man that's a crazy price, that is why I try to do everything myself. I did take the actuator and opened it and turn the gear back into position and reinstalled it
How do you calibrate the actuator to the face mode? I plugged in the new one but it doesn't do anything when I switch the mode. Just stays on face mode.
I got a question for you I got a 99 Chevy 1500 and the air is stuck blowing on the windshield defrost. After I put the new part in do I leave the settings on defrost? Or is that going to bind the gears? I seen you said that in other comments Thank you.
So what you can do is once you take the actuator out go up under the dash and take you flapper door (the white piece with the gear looking threads) and flip it down this will make it where you can put the new actuator in and plug it in without binding the gears as long as the actuator is SCREWED in you will not have a problem.
I need to do this to my turdamax. Seems like if your not sure what position it's in couldn't you just plug the unit in without installing it and allow it to run to whatever setting your knob is on then unplug and install?
Hey so mine is stuck on face vent my question is once i buy the new one do i install the big plate with it then plug it in so the computer communicates its in face position?after that do i install it and should work fine?
@Pablo Gonzalez Yes plug in the new actuator and the computer will automatically move the actuator to the face vent setting then install the plate then the actuator then you are all set.
I’d really like to do this install myself. Im a little nervous about the plastic knob that controls the flapper. Just how sensitive is this and is it noticeable while changing? I’d hate to have to take apart the dash. Thank you
It comes out easy but I don't get how you could get it back on without the entire dash out and both hands. The part with the teeth has to tuck under the white part with the teeth in order to have it mate up correctly, but the whole time you have to worry about the little button thing not dropping down amd losing its alignment with the groove it sits it. I'm about to just zip tie the door in the face position. I live in the southwest and don't really need defrost anyway. Lol
What did you mean by "max it out?" I had my actuator repaired and it's only about 50% better. The air now reaches the other positions but it seems... leaky. Like it never fully switches between positions. Before it was stuck on face vents. Any input would be appreciated, thanks. I'd like to be able to go back to the mechanic and discuss my concerns.
So what I did was to make it easy I took the black face plate of the new actuator and put it in, Then I took the actuator and lined up the screw hole then push the new actuator onto the face plate, then screw it in.
I’ve installed two new actuators. My problem is the doors are interfering when it goes back and forth and won’t go all the way unless you assist it. Man I don’t know what the hell and I hope someone has had this issue and can help haha!
Well it's actually an aceidelco part. It's not the original. It's just an aftermarket one inside an .Delco box.. you can get the original one with that writing on it and everything it cost more
Save yourself a hassle. Replace full part carefully and disconnect the negative on the battery. Do not give it power untill you screw down the part and it’ll calibrate itself. Worked like a charm for me. Part #604-113
I must ask. If you had to do it all over again would you just opt to let the shop do it? I'm on the fence because of the actuator sync concerns. Thanks for your thoughts in hind sight. I have a 2002 GMC Sierra base model. Looks like the same dealio as yours.
If I were to do it again I would still do it myself because it wasn't to bad of a replacement. You would pay a lot more for a shop to do it. When you put the actuator in, before you put it in plug it in the what ever setting its stuck on and the actuator will automatically move to the right location.
@@QuadBossElite just to clarify, you are advising us to plug in the actuator PRIOR to final install in the bracket with the screws (basically holding it in my hand as it's plugged in) and let the actuator communicate with the controls to automatically sync? THEN, I can install the actuator? Thanks! This was helpful.
So what I did was I took the cover off of the new actuator and pulled out the center gear and rotated the second gear all the way to the left and put the center gear back in then when you plug it back in make sure it is on a setting before the defrost vents because when you have it on the defrost setting before you put it in the gears will bind and you have to do the whole process over again.
Your problem could be that your cabin air filters are dirty. The cabin air filters are located under the passenger side dash there is a black cover on the bottom of your dash. One more thing I can think of is your blower motor is going bad, the blower motor is also located in the same area.
I have an '02 Suburban 5.3 1500 ....got the same problem except mine is stuck on windshield defrost vents and won't go to face or feet. I will report back after I try this. Thanks. Also: were you saying that you want to put the new one on with that plate in the same position as the old one?
Yes so when you have your new one make sure you are one the setting its stuck in so in your case it the defrost. Make sure your on the defrost setting on your control panel, then plug in your new actuator then it will automatically move to the defrost position.
Once you get the case open I pulled out the middle big gear and took the black actuator plate and moved it all the way to the left. then reinsert the gear and you will be back to working again.
What ever setting it is stuck on. So before you put it in plug the wire into your new actuator and the actuator will automatically move to the location it was stuck in. Then you can install it.
Considering the new trucks ACS break in less than 5 years because they used a China condenser.... Thses lasted a long time... I would take all their little cheap easy problems over a modern car or truck with a huge monthly payment. Expensive insurance, repairs and exise tax... Plus it diffreciates, immediately. It's just not worth it. I don't think it is.... I had a 2016 Silverado and it was the biggest piece of s*** that was the only time I've ever been breasted stranded on the side of the road with a Chevy truck. All my old Chevys never left me stranded... Mind you would only had 72,000 mi on it too and the transmission went and the AC stopped working. It needed both upper control arms because there's no grease fittings anywhere so you have to just replace them when they wear out... In 75,000 mi. That's pretty disgusting dude. I've had old Chevys with 250,000, mi on the original ball joint
It's such a tough spot to get at you'd have to be a contortionist to hold the phone or camera that you can see anything and with the other hand try and work the tools and start the bolts
I just removed mine this morning. Couldnt figure out why it wouldnt close to the front blower fully. Dismantled the mode actuator to find a busted gear.
Thanks for the lesson on your video i was able to gently remove it and protect the rest of the system for a new actuator when it arrives.
I glad I was able to help!! Let me know once you put the new one in and
if it works!!
Thanks for the tips!
I used several different tips from people in the comments, and here’s my experience with mine.
Mine was stuck on defrost.
First before you do anything, pull out the HVAC fuse for one minute and put it back in and turn your key to auxiliary on, just before start, and let your flaps all adjust for 30 seconds to see if that fixes your problem. If it doesn’t , then it is time to put in a new one.
Pull the hvac fuse back out.
Move your drivers seat as far back as possible.
Push your parking brake all the way down to give you room for your head, you’re going to need it.
Remove the vent tube and maneuver it to rest behind the brake pedal.
If you have a LED bar light, place it on the floor behind the brake pedal so that you can use both hands to your best ability.
Unplug your module
Remove the upper and lower screws, which will be tough. Luckily for me I had a very small quarter inch ratchet set with a shorter extension that allowed me to remove the screws. Some also suggested using a 6mm Allen wrench in the back of the socket to get the top screw out.
You can either use a 5.5 MM socket, or you can use a 7/32 socket. Carefully wiggle the control module out, sliding it downward and toward the left, will help get it loose from the white gear on the upper right.
Compare the position of your new module to the old module, mine was not the same, if you look on the new module, it should show anywhere from 3 to 5 lines, there is a line on center of the flange which kind of points to what position the new module is set in. Mine looked to be set on the fourth position which is defrost/floor. So I moved my control setting on the dash to the defrost and floor setting.
I carefully used my fingers to pull the new flange off of the new motor on the new module. Once you pull the flange off, you can see that it has flat spots on the motor to line the flange back up when you put it back on.
After you have removed the flange from the module, install the flange piece under the dash by itself, slide it in by moving from left to right upward just the optway that you took it out to help capture the white gear, you have to put the flange in at a slight angle and wiggle it around until you fill it all click into place. You should notice when everything falls into place. It becomes more snug against the plastic that it is lies up against.
Then put the new motor in while lining it up with the center of the flange to the backside of the motor and pushing them together with your fingers which should line up your top and bottom screws.
Put the top screw in first by either using the socket itself with the screw in it or if you can possibly work it in a little bit with your fingers and until you can get it tight enough to get the socket on it and finish tightening it up.
I tried to get the holder tab for the control wire back on, but it was causing too much issue with getting the top screw in so I just left that out and left it loose, it doesn’t appear that it will interfere with anything if you leave it loose.
I then put in the bottom screw and tightened it back up.
Wiggle the new piece a little bit to make sure that both screws are tightened, you do not want to overtighten them, but you also want them to be tight enough to hold the unit firmly.
Plug your control module back in.
Hook your vent tube back up.
Release your parking break.
Replace the fuse back into the fuse, panel for the HVAC.
Make sure your fan is shut off, just so you can hear the flaps adjusting.
Now turn your key to accessories on, or just before start, and you will hear your flaps begin calibrating. I waited about 3 to 5 minutes to make sure they were fully adjusted, then I turn my key back off and then I started my truck up and turned my fan on to see where my vents would be blowing from. It instantly began blowing from the defrost/floor setting like the knob on the dash of as set at.
Great info but it would be great if you show your work process.
he cant lol. theres no room to film and do the work.
He wxplained it much better than the videos ive seen already. There really is no room to work and see at the same time. It’s all done by feel
I just changed mine. Really easy. When putting back in just make sure the lines are centered in the middle that's for the dash and leave it on dash before plugging it in. The top peg just move it up and slide the new piece in. It will "pop" in and the holes will lign up
How did you remove the top screw
@@alexiscordova6603 I used a 1/4 swivel
this has been my saving grace, for so long i could not figure it out but this has helped me so much, keep it up with these videos
great vid dude....mine is doing the opposite, blowing out the floor and not through the upper vents..gonna give this fix a shot
Did this work for you? Mine is having this issue with the floor but not the other vents
@@tylerfelver9482 After further investigation, I found the blower motor fan was clogged up with 20yrs of leaves and dirt. I changed it out with a new one and air flow is back to normal. It's worth checking the blower fan first. Pain in the ass getting to the inside screw..good luck :)
Mine continously switches back in forth from vents to floor on its own...aggravating
I'm young and scrawny and I STILL had to take the whole dash apart just to get to this stupid thing! And then after that I couldn't get a socket wrench or a nut driver to fit in that awkward little space to get the thing unscrewed! I feel incredibly accomplished just getting the part *off*, and that's only half the job. Thanks so much for this video!
its a bullshit video he does not show you HOW TO get to the top bolt and its a DAMN NIGHTMARE
Is it on the driver side...
Tucson AZ i know what you mean about weather. Its getting cold now at night. Got to swap mine out as well because its stuck on face mode. I need defrost now. 😂
I got mine out about 4 years ago but never put a new one in. It was hard and crap to get out. I'm not sure how to set it back to the face blow setting though. But I need to get this done before winter.
Once you get the actuator out you are able to move the damper all the way down which is the face setting which the new actuator is set to
Great to find another az local putting out good info
Thank you sir straight-to-the-point very helpful
What exactly did you do to the gears after you maxed it out? I think I did that cause I tested it out plugged in, not installed, and once I selected defrost the actuator turned all the way to one side and never moved back when selecting a different mode.
That is exactly what I did, I took the actuator case of and inside you will see the arm is on a rotating gear I took the arm and gear and rotated it back the the original position. Then put the cover back in and finished the install.
Getting ready to do this on a '15 Cad ATS -- dealer wants to pull the dash for $2k!!! I may have to cut something out with a dremmel and epoxy it back in.
BTW, I saw you can connect a 9v battery to it to move it to match your old position....or open and swap the bad gear...or whatever.
Man that's a crazy price, that is why I try to do everything myself. I did take the actuator and opened it and turn the gear back into position and reinstalled it
Dude these is perfect exactly what I needed thanks!
How do you calibrate the actuator to the face mode? I plugged in the new one but it doesn't do anything when I switch the mode. Just stays on face mode.
LMFAO, I go swimming in 60 degrees 🤣
Good looking out. Great video!
@Joshua Salaiz, thank you we are glad you enjoyed
I got a question for you I got a 99 Chevy 1500 and the air is stuck blowing on the windshield defrost. After I put the new part in do I leave the settings on defrost? Or is that going to bind the gears? I seen you said that in other comments Thank you.
So what you can do is once you take the actuator out go up under the dash and take you flapper door (the white piece with the gear looking threads) and flip it down this will make it where you can put the new actuator in and plug it in without binding the gears as long as the actuator is SCREWED in you will not have a problem.
U didn't show how to change, more so talked about changing it .
I'm going to try it I think it will work
I need to do this to my turdamax. Seems like if your not sure what position it's in couldn't you just plug the unit in without installing it and allow it to run to whatever setting your knob is on then unplug and install?
That’s what I did and it worked
Hey so mine is stuck on face vent my question is once i buy the new one do i install the big plate with it then plug it in so the computer communicates its in face position?after that do i install it and should work fine?
@Pablo Gonzalez Yes plug in the new actuator and the computer will automatically move the actuator to the face vent setting then install the plate then the actuator then you are all set.
I’d really like to do this install myself. Im a little nervous about the plastic knob that controls the flapper. Just how sensitive is this and is it noticeable while changing? I’d hate to have to take apart the dash. Thank you
what did u used for that too 7/32 screw i cant find a single tool that fits in there
A 5.5 mm socket and then a 6 mm Alan's wrench inside of it
That helps. Thank you
It comes out easy but I don't get how you could get it back on without the entire dash out and both hands. The part with the teeth has to tuck under the white part with the teeth in order to have it mate up correctly, but the whole time you have to worry about the little button thing not dropping down amd losing its alignment with the groove it sits it.
I'm about to just zip tie the door in the face position. I live in the southwest and don't really need defrost anyway. Lol
What tool did you use to get the top bolt off?
I used a 1/4 ratchet and a long 7/32 socket
Place 5.5 mm socket on screw, use short 6 mm allen wrench to loosen screw, use fingers to turn socket until screw is out.
@@elchema91 THANK YOU! I wouldn't have ever got the thing off if I hadn't seen your comment! What a ridiculous size for a fastener!
What did you mean by "max it out?" I had my actuator repaired and it's only about 50% better. The air now reaches the other positions but it seems... leaky. Like it never fully switches between positions. Before it was stuck on face vents. Any input would be appreciated, thanks. I'd like to be able to go back to the mechanic and discuss my concerns.
the foam on the flaps that open and close are probably gone so it dosnt seal fully
They like 126 now @ the part store ac delco
Where did you get your parts from for actuators?
Doing the same job but in a Denali with the stupid center console in the way
How did you put ti back in I can somehow put it bakc in
So what I did was to make it easy I took the black face plate of the new actuator and put it in, Then I took the actuator and lined up the screw hole then push the new actuator onto the face plate, then screw it in.
I’ve installed two new actuators. My problem is the doors are interfering when it goes back and forth and won’t go all the way unless you assist it. Man I don’t know what the hell and I hope someone has had this issue and can help haha!
I don’t have that white piece with the gears. I have Chevy Silverado 1500 2003
I need your help buddy mine broke and I gotta pull it all apart
Well it's actually an aceidelco part. It's not the original. It's just an aftermarket one inside an .Delco box.. you can get the original one with that writing on it and everything it cost more
Save yourself a hassle. Replace full part carefully and disconnect the negative on the battery. Do not give it power untill you screw down the part and it’ll calibrate itself. Worked like a charm for me. Part #604-113
What setting should it be set to and how when you purchase them what setting are they already set on
@@Drewfvalencia I turned off ac and left it in the face vent setting
@@martinlopez669 thank you I’m gonna do the install today
@@Drewfvalencia after full install. Connect battery, put key forward and give it 30 secs, then go through cycles
@@martinlopez669 will do thank you again
I must ask. If you had to do it all over again would you just opt to let the shop do it? I'm on the fence because of the actuator sync concerns. Thanks for your thoughts in hind sight. I have a 2002 GMC Sierra base model. Looks like the same dealio as yours.
If I were to do it again I would still do it myself because it wasn't to bad of a replacement. You would pay a lot more for a shop to do it. When you put the actuator in, before you put it in plug it in the what ever setting its stuck on and the actuator will automatically move to the right location.
@@QuadBossElite Thank you for sharing that. Much appreciated.
@@QuadBossElite just to clarify, you are advising us to plug in the actuator PRIOR to final install in the bracket with the screws (basically holding it in my hand as it's plugged in) and let the actuator communicate with the controls to automatically sync? THEN, I can install the actuator? Thanks! This was helpful.
No Problem
No problem we are glad it helped
We swapped it out but ended up with like four bolt/ screws that were all in there.
58 degrees...let that sink in.
You showed that you did it not HOW you did it.
I need help with this can anyone help on it
I love the part when you to NOT actually show the pulling of the part and the NIGHTMARE the top bolt is to get to... I CALL BULLHIT ON YOU
Ikr. Have u seen a better video. I need more help
How did you move the gears? Minds is still out of sync.
So what I did was I took the cover off of the new actuator and pulled out the center gear and rotated the second gear all the way to the left and put the center gear back in then when you plug it back in make sure it is on a setting before the defrost vents because when you have it on the defrost setting before you put it in the gears will bind and you have to do the whole process over again.
@@QuadBossElite is there part number for that assembly?
My heat is working but I have to turn it up on high to fill it. why is that ? 99 chevrolet silverado
Your problem could be that your cabin air filters are dirty. The cabin air filters are located under the passenger side dash there is a black cover on the bottom of your dash. One more thing I can think of is your blower motor is going bad, the blower motor is also located in the same area.
@@QuadBossElite your right i replaced filters worked great getting redy to do acturator
I dont get mad ot lasted 22 years
I have an '02 Suburban 5.3 1500 ....got the same problem except mine is stuck on windshield defrost vents and won't go to face or feet. I will report back after I try this. Thanks.
Also: were you saying that you want to put the new one on with that plate in the same position as the old one?
Yes so when you have your new one make sure you are one the setting its stuck in so in your case it the defrost. Make sure your on the defrost setting on your control panel, then plug in your new actuator then it will automatically move to the defrost position.
Same issue on my 01 Silverado. I thought I had manual doors but I see now it's still electronic just not digital lol
YOU NEVER SAID OR SHOWED HOW YOU LINED IT UP TO WORK RIGHT ... LOL.... LOL...
Mine is stuck on windshield n feet cant change the mode when I install this hopefully it work
Cool 😎
Oh Ya , Get some new Filters . LOL
How did you time it again after you messed it up?
Once you get the case open I pulled out the middle big gear and took the black actuator plate and moved it all the way to the left. then reinsert the gear and you will be back to working again.
@@QuadBossElite so it has to set bet installation or jst install it?
What ever setting it is stuck on. So before you put it in plug the wire into your new actuator and the actuator will automatically move to the location it was stuck in. Then you can install it.
Considering the new trucks ACS break in less than 5 years because they used a China condenser.... Thses lasted a long time... I would take all their little cheap easy problems over a modern car or truck with a huge monthly payment. Expensive insurance, repairs and exise tax... Plus it diffreciates, immediately. It's just not worth it. I don't think it is.... I had a 2016 Silverado and it was the biggest piece of s*** that was the only time I've ever been breasted stranded on the side of the road with a Chevy truck. All my old Chevys never left me stranded... Mind you would only had 72,000 mi on it too and the transmission went and the AC stopped working. It needed both upper control arms because there's no grease fittings anywhere so you have to just replace them when they wear out... In 75,000 mi. That's pretty disgusting dude. I've had old Chevys with 250,000, mi on the original ball joint
The Impala has plastic gears in theirs.
To much talking.
Funny how no one shows the process of reinstalling this part......
It's such a tough spot to get at you'd have to be a contortionist to hold the phone or camera that you can see anything and with the other hand try and work the tools and start the bolts
How dare you make a opening comment Chevy problems. You could not be further from the truth.
I know right🤣
Yes had the same problem on a Toyota gona cost me $1100.00 to fix it. Last Toyota il own.
Didn't show yourself takung part off or putting part back on. Not sure how anyone could find this useful
Thank you for your feedback
Videos that don't show the removal or re-install process are not how to videos. They're worthless.
USELESS