Fcs plugs are designed to install post lamination. A lot of the structure comes from the qcell/resin mixture thats why there’s a lip. Set your fin angles then pour resin in with a squeeze bottle. But regardless of how you installed these fcs plugs they will fail eventually in EPS (especially with the eps you used.) twin fins hold immense amount load and eps foam is not dense enough to withstand that load. Will work initially but will eventually fail. Using a quality eps like Marko you can get away with no reinforcement with twin fins but eventually they will fail too. For eps twins fins I like to route out the boxes, use your Dremel tool to route out a little slot on the inside of the route. Use a high density pour foam. Shave down the pour foam once it has cured then re route it. You’ll have a high density glued in inserts that will be much stronger and give you more drive. But if I were to redo this video i would have simply used pu foam insert instead of eps. That eps you used would be great for regular ding repair but for fin boxes/plugs it’s going to fail eventually.
@@-Fank- eps foam is stronger than pu foam. I'd like to know the difference between the surfboard density and the commercial ones, but to me, it looks exactly the same, having shaped an eps surfboard myself.
Thanks Travis I appreciate you taking the time to share this info! There are whole boards build out of eps though with no different composite where the fin boxes get routed. So are you saying that any fcs 1 plug in an EPS board is destined to fail?
This was for a paying customer but I guarantee my work, meaning that if it fails they can bring it back and I’ll fix it again for free. I will make a video about it if it happens🤙🏻
Very Rad stuff and I think the Epoxy should hold but is a twin and those are big fins for Fcs maybe add little carbon strip & I cut plastic with a sharp knife 🔪 way faster and less toxic than the sander ! Thanks for posting this videos Amigo & I am going to fix a blade just like this too !
Uncle it has been SOOOOOOOOOOOO LONG. When is the new repair or board making video dropping please? You the only guy I watch and care to watch doing this. Yes Odd. But True. Just relaxed and straight to the point I guess :) Can you maybe one day explain the tail styles and how they perform? Beats my day job :)
The ridge is there because fcs1 plugs are designed to bond to the deck glass, so you're supposed to route all the way through to the deck and without the ridge the plug will sink too deep into the hole. The reason why fcs1 plugs fail so much is because no one bonds them to the deck glass like you're supposed to, that's why they are suitable for post lam install as they arent able to press into foam because there's no foam under them to press into
Bradda kine! This video has filled my heart with warm, fuzzy feelings! Well done, while there are a handful of small mistakes you put the effort in and I would call that an acceptable repair! I am no expert at youtube but, I would consider myself a board repairing expert. Would you mind if I made a video reviewing this repair and pointing out the couple of things I noticed? Well done again, and I envy your video quality and editing skills
O, one more thing too in regards to the the fear of using that router in sensitive areas. I feel you, I used to own that same router and it was terrifying and unpredictable. I cannot reccomend upgrading that tool the the makita version enough. It blew me away the difference, your confidence level will increase 10 fold, your safety will increase and the safety of your customers boards. I promise you, it will change your working life. 🎉
@@Rogue_wave no worries at all, hard to reply to every comment! I have made it, I did tag you but no sure how good tagging is on yeewtubes. Upgrade that router for sure, game changer
The average person isn’t gonna notice the weight difference in using resin and Q cell. There is no ‘right way’ Just different methods of coming to the same result. Keep up the good videos.
The weight difference isn't the issue when it comes to filling large cavities with resin and micro balloons. Something to be taken into account for sure, but certainly not the key issue.
Here on the east coast Oreillys can get/mix that automotive paint. But I like acrylic also, sharpie and posca acrylic paint pens, and createx wicked acrylic airbrush paint. Great vid!!!
The lip on FCS plugs is stop the resin going in the plug .You are meant to fit them after glassing the board at the set filler coat stage and use a stick on foam dam on the board to create a pool of resin to feed the the plug also your supposed to use a tube cutting hand tool to get a bond onto the deck of the board that is where the strength of the plug comes from (fitted thousands of them over 14 years making boards in a surf board factory)You then screw in the grub screw and sand the plug down level to the board tape up and gloss coat over the top .sand and spray .FCS also would supply a white powder to mix in with the resin it consisted of fine chopped glass strands and helped increase resin strength. When all the Chinese boards started appearing i repaired hundreds of FCS plugs in them none of which had been fitted correctly just a ball of resin you can make your own hand cutter from a bit of Allie tube same size as you rout hole for the plug end cut on a angle with a few teeth cut in to score the deck glass .Also make ply wood templates for routing out on boards takes all the risk away .Look on ebay for hi density foam its much harder and better for repairs .Hope this helps you .
Wow, thank you Robert! This is very helpful. I don’t do these plugs a lot but definitely want to learn the best way to fix them when they come through my shop. Much appreciated.
Any advice just ask i have glassed and sanded about 5000 boards and repaired hundreds with full restoration of vintage boards as well ,so i have seen it all lol.@@Rogue_wave
HI Rogue Wave Surfboard Repair, didn't FCS put the ridge around so that no resin runs into the holes for the fin and the screw? So you can put it in and sand it down after hotcoating? Love your videos, Cheers
Tip; Try to avoid using glass with the tied woven ends. It makes it difficult to sand. Cut with a pair of scissors instead 5:09 Although you trimmed it later.
@@Rogue_wave More than happy to. Well, quite often in your Vlogs, I’ve noticed that you use the end of the woven cloth. The part of the cloth that has been tied together which is on opposing (both) sides of the the roll. Due to it being tied up or braided, its creates a ridge, which will be more laborious to remove. Also, you might want to try, Rounding the edges of your lay up. This permits easier transitioning between the layup and where it meets the surface of the board. Give it a go! Aloha Dude
@@Rogue_wave Yes, POST HOTCOAT. I was running a small glassing workshop in Barcelona, back in the 90's, when FCS system was first available, and post hotcoat is what the installation manual told.
I’m still learning the best way to install these fcs plugs it seems 😂 Customers can always bring back boards if my repairs fail! I’ll make a video out of it if that happens!
Just my opinion, you should have painted the other fin repair too. I know it wasnt quoted blah blah but, it makes a big difference to people and usually they will tip, and talk about you. For the extra few minutes of work it will pay off for you.
what kind of FCS1 plug are you replacing? I.e. why doesn't it have the two circular plugs for the tabs (like the other fin box you didn't repair)?? Why does't the original damaged fin box look like what you replaced it with?
FCS made a bunch of different kinds of fin boxes before they arrived at what they sell today. I have two options to use- plugs or peanut boxes. I suppose I could have used the box on this, but went with plugs.
fcs sux. Well done, but won't last... is not you, just the plugs. Judging by how the other plugs of the other finbox, I would have offered the owner to put futures boxes and would have told him to sell his fins, and get some futures fins
how about they make boards better.. could never get away with the basic minimum like that when i was building windsurf boards. they don't even use good glass, just hardwear store crap..
This is the pinnacle of surfing! Awesome video, thanks for sharing the whole process from re-shaping to testing out the board!
Great work. Time will be the judge, but your dexterity is something! Amazing skills!
Thanks Andy. Well put! Customers can always bring back boards if my repairs fail.
@@Rogue_wave I'm quite sure the repair will work just fine.
Fcs plugs are designed to install post lamination. A lot of the structure comes from the qcell/resin mixture thats why there’s a lip. Set your fin angles then pour resin in with a squeeze bottle. But regardless of how you installed these fcs plugs they will fail eventually in EPS (especially with the eps you used.) twin fins hold immense amount load and eps foam is not dense enough to withstand that load. Will work initially but will eventually fail. Using a quality eps like Marko you can get away with no reinforcement with twin fins but eventually they will fail too. For eps twins fins I like to route out the boxes, use your Dremel tool to route out a little slot on the inside of the route. Use a high density pour foam. Shave down the pour foam once it has cured then re route it. You’ll have a high density glued in inserts that will be much stronger and give you more drive. But if I were to redo this video i would have simply used pu foam insert instead of eps. That eps you used would be great for regular ding repair but for fin boxes/plugs it’s going to fail eventually.
eps is also used for complete boards, are you sure of what you said? Beside, it's a fish, it won't have to hold much load.
@@jcd-k2s density of surfboard foam is much much higher than eps coolers. Hopefully this video wasn't for a paying customer
@@-Fank- eps foam is stronger than pu foam. I'd like to know the difference between the surfboard density and the commercial ones, but to me, it looks exactly the same, having shaped an eps surfboard myself.
Thanks Travis I appreciate you taking the time to share this info! There are whole boards build out of eps though with no different composite where the fin boxes get routed. So are you saying that any fcs 1 plug in an EPS board is destined to fail?
This was for a paying customer but I guarantee my work, meaning that if it fails they can bring it back and I’ll fix it again for free. I will make a video about it if it happens🤙🏻
Very Rad stuff and I think the Epoxy should hold but is a twin and those are big fins for Fcs maybe add little carbon strip & I cut plastic with a sharp knife 🔪 way faster and less toxic than the sander ! Thanks for posting this videos Amigo & I am going to fix a blade just like this too !
Uncle it has been SOOOOOOOOOOOO LONG. When is the new repair or board making video dropping please? You the only guy I watch and care to watch doing this. Yes Odd. But True. Just relaxed and straight to the point I guess :) Can you maybe one day explain the tail styles and how they perform? Beats my day job :)
Thanks dude. New video coming out in a week or so! Two more in the pipe after that.
The ridge is there because fcs1 plugs are designed to bond to the deck glass, so you're supposed to route all the way through to the deck and without the ridge the plug will sink too deep into the hole. The reason why fcs1 plugs fail so much is because no one bonds them to the deck glass like you're supposed to, that's why they are suitable for post lam install as they arent able to press into foam because there's no foam under them to press into
Interesting, thanksb
Bradda kine! This video has filled my heart with warm, fuzzy feelings! Well done, while there are a handful of small mistakes you put the effort in and I would call that an acceptable repair!
I am no expert at youtube but, I would consider myself a board repairing expert. Would you mind if I made a video reviewing this repair and pointing out the couple of things I noticed?
Well done again, and I envy your video quality and editing skills
O, one more thing too in regards to the the fear of using that router in sensitive areas. I feel you, I used to own that same router and it was terrifying and unpredictable. I cannot reccomend upgrading that tool the the makita version enough. It blew me away the difference, your confidence level will increase 10 fold, your safety will increase and the safety of your customers boards. I promise you, it will change your working life. 🎉
Sorry for the late response dude, but yeah go ahead! Btw I will look into a makita router for sure, I think it’s high time I upgrade 😂
@@Rogue_wave no worries at all, hard to reply to every comment! I have made it, I did tag you but no sure how good tagging is on yeewtubes.
Upgrade that router for sure, game changer
The average person isn’t gonna notice the weight difference in using resin and Q cell. There is no ‘right way’ Just different methods of coming to the same result. Keep up the good videos.
I agree, thanks OB Juan 😂
The weight difference isn't the issue when it comes to filling large cavities with resin and micro balloons. Something to be taken into account for sure, but certainly not the key issue.
using a squeege will give the best bond of glass to board, making it stronger
Here on the east coast Oreillys can get/mix that automotive paint. But I like acrylic also, sharpie and posca acrylic paint pens, and createx wicked acrylic airbrush paint. Great vid!!!
Thanks Matt!
Came out awesome! Always like the color match.
The automotive paint you’re looking for is also known as 2K paint which will usually be in a tin and will need a thinner and a hardener
I just use polyurethane moisture cured glue for that repair in nz gorilla glue works fine
Awesome work once again
Great as always, thanks man!!!
The lip on FCS plugs is stop the resin going in the plug .You are meant to fit them after glassing the board at the set filler coat stage and use a stick on foam dam on the board to create a pool of resin to feed the the plug also your supposed to use a tube cutting hand tool to get a bond onto the deck of the board that is where the strength of the plug comes from (fitted thousands of them over 14 years making boards in a surf board factory)You then screw in the grub screw and sand the plug down level to the board tape up and gloss coat over the top .sand and spray .FCS also would supply a white powder to mix in with the resin it consisted of fine chopped glass strands and helped increase resin strength. When all the Chinese boards started appearing i repaired hundreds of FCS plugs in them none of which had been fitted correctly just a ball of resin you can make your own hand cutter from a bit of Allie tube same size as you rout hole for the plug end cut on a angle with a few teeth cut in to score the deck glass .Also make ply wood templates for routing out on boards takes all the risk away .Look on ebay for hi density foam its much harder and better for repairs .Hope this helps you .
Wow, thank you Robert! This is very helpful. I don’t do these plugs a lot but definitely want to learn the best way to fix them when they come through my shop. Much appreciated.
Any advice just ask i have glassed and sanded about 5000 boards and repaired hundreds with full restoration of vintage boards as well ,so i have seen it all lol.@@Rogue_wave
The ridge is to stop the resin from overflowing in to the plug during install
which styrofoam did you use? cool video, a hug from Brazil
HI Rogue Wave Surfboard Repair,
didn't FCS put the ridge around so that no resin runs into the holes for the fin and the screw? So you can put it in and sand it down after hotcoating?
Love your videos, Cheers
This makes sense
Tip; Try to avoid using glass with the tied woven ends. It makes it difficult to sand. Cut with a pair of scissors instead 5:09 Although you trimmed it later.
Thank you! Can you elaborate? What do you mean tied woven ends?
@@Rogue_wave More than happy to. Well, quite often in your Vlogs, I’ve noticed that you use the end of the woven cloth. The part of the cloth that has been tied together which is on opposing (both) sides of the the roll. Due to it being tied up or braided, its creates a ridge, which will be more laborious to remove. Also, you might want to try, Rounding the edges of your lay up. This permits easier transitioning between the layup and where it meets the surface of the board. Give it a go! Aloha Dude
@@dudeleboski2692 Thanks dude will give that a shot!
C'mon!!! FCS 1 plugs are the only small fin system designed to install POST lamination (post hotcoating, indeed).
Thanks David! Really- post hotcoat? That seems unusual, but makes sense with the hooks on either side of the plug.
@@Rogue_wave Yes, POST HOTCOAT. I was running a small glassing workshop in Barcelona, back in the 90's, when FCS system was first available, and post hotcoat is what the installation manual told.
👍
Hey man did you used to work in an auto bodyshop your methods are very familiar
Nope never have!
What happened to the H beam that connects the plug to the deck for strenght? This plugs going to snap straight out.
I’m still learning the best way to install these fcs plugs it seems 😂 Customers can always bring back boards if my repairs fail! I’ll make a video out of it if that happens!
Would’ve been nice of you to paint the other fin repair too.
I tried to use expanding foam, but it has been in the garage for years.
I’m want to do a video with that stuff soon!
Just my opinion, you should have painted the other fin repair too. I know it wasnt quoted blah blah but, it makes a big difference to people and usually they will tip, and talk about you. For the extra few minutes of work it will pay off for you.
That’s a good point! Thank Zim.
@@Rogue_wave pleasure! And thank you for the cool vids!
what kind of FCS1 plug are you replacing? I.e. why doesn't it have the two circular plugs for the tabs (like the other fin box you didn't repair)?? Why does't the original damaged fin box look like what you replaced it with?
FCS made a bunch of different kinds of fin boxes before they arrived at what they sell today. I have two options to use- plugs or peanut boxes. I suppose I could have used the box on this, but went with plugs.
Why is fcs still a thing?
Would have been so much easier if you installed the fcs plugs the right way.
The repair looks better than new, but my guy, boots and skinny jeans? :(
ROFL is that a cooler box lid🤣
Yes 😂
@@Rogue_wave 🤣🤣🤣 Surf board repair in a box
The thing about these boards they paint it , pop out boards
you pui a hole in your boot?
If it works then it works. Q cell or whatever
fcs sux. Well done, but won't last... is not you, just the plugs. Judging by how the other plugs of the other finbox, I would have offered the owner to put futures boxes and would have told him to sell his fins, and get some futures fins
Good point
epoxy NOT PU and now i wanna see what it would look like putting pu across that whole surface area of eps foam itd be terrible
It’d melt it
@@Rogue_wave PU is not polyester though.. PU is polyurethane foam... Polyester is PE..
@@daliks you can stillepoxy over pu
@@laurencew5220 that has nothing to do with my conment, thanks.
Pu blanks with epoxy resin is all i use for making surfboards.
Dude 12 pound pour foam !!!!!!! way easier .
Gonna check this out, thank you!!
You're doing it all wrong bro! Come on man....lol jk....nice work! 👍
those surf techs are a pain to fix .who care how you do as long as it sealed and looks good
Thanks Skipper! Agreed 😂
Cool fortunately the person that's going to surf I'm it going to be sucky anyways
😂
Noice
how about they make boards better.. could never get away with the basic minimum like that when i was building windsurf boards. they don't even use good glass, just hardwear store crap..
Windsurf boards are designed to withstand a lot more force. If you build a surfboard with the same materials/construction it’d be really heavy.