I use a 3/8 fortsner bit to drill along a crack and glue standard dowels in the holes. I do this when the bowl is roughed in….works well and makes nice designs.
Great video and great topic! I just used thinned shellac to go around the cracks first before thin/medium c.a. to prevent staining because i dont have the spray lacquer, and it worked great. Basically any kind of finish I've learned will work 😊
Nice trick with wood glue. I tried like this but also adding a bit of water to thin it. Titebound says no more than 5% or it decreases strength but here I don't know if it really matters as you don't really need the glue to be full strength. The thinner glue makes it easier for filling small cracks. I also tried rubbing with a bit of wood shavings but that didn't make a huge difference, just mabe reduced the sanding time.
Hello, I have not read thru all 150+ comments so please excuse me if I am repeating one. Nova makes 70mm jaws for their chucks which is pretty close to 3". Thank you for the videos. You are my primary source for instructions and I am grateful for all you do.
This is awesome. I have gotten cracks a lot but I’m also still very new at this. Without asking you to be an adversary for any brand what kind works better for you
Wood glue and finely ground coffee makes nice dark areas, especially on spalted wood, often barely noticable. Thanks for all videos you make. Helps me a lot!
Hello Ken turned a bowl and filled the voids with brass powder wife saw it and her reaction was….That’s cr@ρ… .After watching your video I will go with the 5 min epoxy and walnut fine dust lets hope the lady will be satisfied:):) Thank you for sharing your knowledge on youtube All the best Yiannis (Athens Greece)
Kent. Great refresher on the methods you have shown in other videos. I have some red oak on the lathe that I have left sitting (and drying) after I rough turned the outside. 😢 The cracks are pretty deep and I need to fix them before I finish rough turning the inside. I am going to use the glue/saw dust method. I had forgotten about it. Thanks for the reminder. Chas
I use all 3 of these techniques, however I have added another trick. I drill a series of tiny holes and stitch across with braided fishing line. You have a huge amount of choices at that point. Just a plain sewing job, you can do any type of stitching for patterns. Also weave into the cross stitching. If you choose the fiber based line, it can be died any color you want. It can be soaked with CA to add rigidity ECT ECT. Go explore the choices, and enjoy.
Great tip Kent! I've had numerous bowls that I have simply put on the firewood pile that had cracks. This is one way to save a few. Best, Skip Proctor, ProctorWoodturning.
Once again after watching numerous videos on cracks, I come to your channel. Just like your riding the bevel video, your style of video is so simple, clear and consise. Thanks for your video's
Kent, I have used the CA and glue. It worked like a charm. I have not tried the epoxy as of yet. I have not had bad enough cracks or voids yet. I know that in time I will run into this situations. To any that have not signed up for your online courses don’t wait. You will kick yourself after you struggle for awhile then signup only to find out that the frustration could have been avoided. Don’t ask how I know. Kent knows it’s called the school of hard knocks. Thanks Kent for all of your help.
I've used the wood glue trick and CA glue but not the epoxy. Just haven't had the extra money to try the epoxy. Thanks for sharing! TAKE CARE AND GOD BLESS 🙏!
Hey Kent, I had this problem today. I was making mortar and pestles and one of the blanks had a huge knot. I love knots because they look so awesome when finished. So of course I cut the mortar like I would any other bowl. Well as luck would have it part of the knot busted out and shattered to pieces just as I was finishing up. So my solution was to use Gorilla Clear Super Glue (it does not stain the wood BTW but does take a bit longer to fully dry) on all the remaining parts of the knot. I ended up with a bowl with hole rather low in the side which I had to finish with sand paper (as I said I was almost done). Since it could not be used as a mortar, who wants a mortar that the ingredients will fall out of, it is now an amazing candle holder for votive or tea light candles and my girlfriend loves it. Thanks for the idea about the wood glue and sanding. That is very cool I will try it the next time I deal with cracks. Yall have a wonderful day.
Now I need to go out and crack something I just have to try that technique as always I have enjoyed your video have a wonderful day where do you get your epoxy from
Hi, good video. I like all of these methods. I’d like to share what I do on bowls that have cracks that appear going from the rim toward the foot. I drill a 3/8 in hole thru the crack with a fortsner bit. Then with my dowel bit, make dowels of contrasting wood and use titebond to glue it in place. Most of the time it stops the advance of the crack.
Great advice I’m going to try them on an old piece of wood my mother found for me that’s quite badly cracked I’m new to turning but am loving it and really appreciate the advice!
I have used about every method known to man such as epoxy, wood glue and wood dust, super glue, every type of filler such as glitter, stains, wood dust etc. that I could think of. I like a more “natural look” instead of artificial colors and wood shavings. I sometimes use colored super glue on “very fine” cracks. What I have gone to is a 50/50 mix of wood glue and very finely ground coffee grounds. It gives an enhanced more natural look to the crack. I use this on large to very large cracks. I clean out the crack, mix up my concoction and force it down into the crack using a sharp point and pressure. I let it set over night and on large cracks usually have to fill in again as it will shrink. If you have a crack that goes all the way though to the inside of the turning just use tape on the inside to create a dam. When re-turbing use a very sharp tool and go lightly. I have had very good results and comments from customers and it has a nice natural look.
I've actually used all 3 techniques. For me, it depends on the crack, type of wood, and what I'm going to use the turning for. Thanks for the video 👍👍✌️
Bro Kent my lathe doesn’t have that nob on the side to turn the chuck / faceplate on top head stock.. when turning larger blanks I am weary of my threads on the headstock / face plate / chuck getting stripped eventually.. :/ But I’m sure I can get the part to fix it, just kind of seems like a design flaw to me. I’m running the grizzly G0462 - first lathe I’ve had and getting great results so not in a hurry to upgrade but the lack of features like I described is a bit of a drag and the no reverse too! But with all that being said it’s been easy to learn on and not too difficult. It’s also belt driven but variable speed.. no direct drive! My plan is in a few years to get a robust tools lathe like yours as they seem super nice! If I can afford it 😂
As usual, very helpful and practical information! As you say, the addition of resin to wood turning (hybrid or resin by itself) has become super popular. Suggestion: create some bowl turning videos using resin!!!
Great tricks! I particularly like de second trick because is the most common in my workshop! But all 3 are very important to solve this cracks! Thanks a lot!
I really like the trick to use spray lacquer to mask the wood so that the thin CA glue doesn't bleed. I've had more than one bad experience with bleeding. Thanks for sharing Kent.
I am a new wood turner and I find your videos very helpful. I have been having a problem with cracks and have used CA glue and several fillers in the cracks but always, always hated seeing the stain left by the glue. I will certainly try the wood glue and sanding procedure. Thanks for all the helpful information.
Used coffee grounds and five-minute epoxy has been my go-to for years. Espresso straight from the package is good for finer cracks. I had trouble grinding regular coffee grounds.
Kent, another informative, helpful video. Thanks. Another method if the cracks are large enough and still on the flat wood before turning, you could bowtie them for an interesting effect. I like the idea of using 5-minute epoxy when you want to deal with the crack/hole while turning
Kent, you present some very good ideas; ideas I have used in the past successfully. However, there is a fourth alternative that I have found to be successful, as well. A lot of the wood I turn typically has many large voids and cracks. I will fill the cracks in the way you demonstrated, but I will leave the voids like knot holes or where punky wood removed, etc. In doing so, the bowl takes on a uniqueness that Mother Nature caused. I incorporate those openings as part of the piece and let it go; I do nothing else other than sand and finish. I have sold many bowls doing things this way and people seem to like what I have done. And, from time to time, I will use a resin & color to fill the voids if the wood is a little bland and does not have much character. But, I also think resins can get a little pricey and if one turns a lot of bowls with voids like I typically do, the costs of buying resin can add up quickly. The same could be said for epoxies. Most folks that I sell my turnings too use bowls for decorative purposes only. The voids in the turnings seem to add a character they apparently find desirable. But, I also say go with whatever floats your boat.
I’ve been playing around with milliput recently as another option for larger crack/hole filling with mixed emotions. On one hand, the variety of color options lends to some interesting results. On the other side of the coin, if the milliput tends to need to be used in thicker or deeper cracks because when it is thin instances, it tends to want to crack and chip. I’ve also seen this newer product that is applied with a glue gun? Just some other options I’m sure you have already explored long before I ever knew of them. Super informative as usual sir.
When I use saw this for patching it usually looks really good until I put on a finish then it seems like it goes a lot darker than the rest of the wood .any suggestions thank you for the locker tip I'm going to try it next time I
@@eldenwelchman6054 I’m sure you were probably asking Kent this question, but I have a couple suggestions if you don’t mind hearing them. I use two different products that don’t seem to effect the color of the milliput. One is Howard’s furniture polish which is just beeswax and orange oil. The other is pure Carnuba wax. I bought a nice sized piece from Amazon and it’s lasted me years. I’ve had good results with these.
@@eldenwelchman6054 I agree. When I use wood glue or CA I get the same staining on each side of the crack, even when doing it like shown here. I am surprised I don't see that with his wood. Have you come up with any answers or suggestions?
Thank you so much for taking time to tech us I’m just starting and you have been a life saver and amazing person you are the best this video is amazing I’m definitely looking forward to doing this with cracks and holes thank you I did not know what to do with the problem I’ve turned some cherry and walnut and red oak and white oak but the cherry is cracking really bad
And as always… a great presentation! Thank you Kent. This comes at a very appropriate time. So much of my wood…maple , walnut, plum and cherry is cracking like mad. Yes I know, it was down to my storage method. But even so I have about the equivalent of a half cord of each of these drying under my deck, which in the summer is way too hot. So, I’m turning a lot of “cracky” wood. I often used your glue and sandpaper method, that I picked up from you some time ago. I now have two other great choices! Cheers, Rick
Interesting…. But what you say about filing a crack of 1/8 or 1/4 inch wide crack, say a couple of inches long ? Will the wood glue and sandpaper method work for something that wide ? Curious.
So, are you saying that wood isn't always what it's cracked up to be? 🤣🤣 On a serious note, I have a hunk of box elder which has some ring shake. Can that be stabilized (for example, with epoxy) or should I do something else with it? The wood is still green: the tree was felled in October, I put sealer on it in early December.
Hi, love the in-depth videos. I've been turning pens for a while, but yesterday I started my first bowl. It ended up having a decent size crack. My first thought would be to try Durham's water putty. Have you ever tried that? I might use the colored epoxy method instead, but just curious if that would work. Thanks!
Thnx, again! One can use soft stone (white alabaster) and ca-glue as alternative for epoxy. Or mix woodglue with fine shavings or wooddust to a thick paste (longer to dry). Third and last: mix wooddust with bakingsoda (3:1) as a filler with ca-glue: the glue reacts (rather quickly) with the bakingsoda to a very hard substance: the wooddust will make it a bit softer and will match color. As always: thnx for you fantastic videos.
I have used this trick for awhile but I have a question , if the cracks continue to expand and make your work feel wobbly or off balance because it keels cracking will this gluing stop the crack from spreading ? Example I’m making a clock for a friend she wants it to be as close to the biggest diameter that my lath will do which is 16 inches so I started getting it round and it keeps getting wobbly I found the crack going from one side through the middle towards the other side, normally that blank would be put in the fire pit so I will wait to hear your response before I toss it out
Robert, if the crack is continuing it's probably because the wood isn't dry. I'd work on getting it as dry as possible first. Hope that helps. Happy Turning!
Thx for responding the blank was in a tin shed for about 5-10 yrs according to the gentleman I got it from , I checked it with the moisture reader and it was between 7-8 So I guess glue it and hope for the best and saying with a smile don’t stand in the path of flying projectiles
Garry not Linda. J, you can carefully and quickly heat the surface of the resin with the flame of a propane torch or with a heat gun or hair dryer. It will lower the surface tension of the resin allowing the bubbles to escape. Be very careful to not scorch the resin or the wood around it with the torch. Small flame, keep it moving.
Is using the wood glue/sandpaper technique safe for eating from that bowl? I have a bowl similar to the one you are fixing in the video, but I'm eating in it almost every day :) also, I need to varnish the bowl again after using sandpaper, am I correct?
Yes, Uncle Owl (what type of owl are you? I love owls.) Once the glue is dry and new finish has been applied and cured properly, it should be food safe. Read all the info on the products. You might want to steer towards a "less chemical" glue. Hope that helps. Happy Turning!
CA what is CA???!!!!!!!!!! 😱 Cyanoacrelate?!!!! OMG, why can't you just say SUPER GLUE?!!! OR at least define the abbreviations sheesh! It took me almost 10 min searching to figure it out! lol
71 yrs old and I am still learning, great information.
That's great Richard! Thanks! Yes, we are all still learning. ;) All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Thanks!
Thank you kindly John!!! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Thank you Sir.
You are most welcome Charles!
Many thanks from Eastman Turner in Québec, Ca.
My pleasure, JC! All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
I enjoy and I learned from it
Brilliant
I'm a new, new turner. And I appreciate your videos. I save them for future reviews.
Thank you, Monarch! Enjoy and Happy Turning!
I use a 3/8 fortsner bit to drill along a crack and glue standard dowels in the holes. I do this when the bowl is roughed in….works well and makes nice designs.
Great video and great topic! I just used thinned shellac to go around the cracks first before thin/medium c.a. to prevent staining because i dont have the spray lacquer, and it worked great. Basically any kind of finish I've learned will work 😊
Sounds good Mitch. Happy Turning!
Amazing tips you are great
Nice trick with wood glue. I tried like this but also adding a bit of water to thin it. Titebound says no more than 5% or it decreases strength but here I don't know if it really matters as you don't really need the glue to be full strength. The thinner glue makes it easier for filling small cracks. I also tried rubbing with a bit of wood shavings but that didn't make a huge difference, just mabe reduced the sanding time.
Great tip! I wasn't aware of the thinning with water issue. Thank you, and Happy Turning!
Hello,
I have not read thru all 150+ comments so please excuse me if I am repeating one.
Nova makes 70mm jaws for their chucks which is pretty close to 3".
Thank you for the videos.
You are my primary source for instructions and I am grateful for all you do.
This is awesome. I have gotten cracks a lot but I’m also still very new at this.
Without asking you to be an adversary for any brand what kind works better for you
Great info thank you
Glad it was helpful Ron! Happy Turning!
Very useful - thanks
Glad you like it Bob. Happy Turning!
Thank you for explaining this!
Thank you, Graeme! Happy Turning!
Whoa laquer?? That’s all time!! Never thought of it. Hate those bleeds ! Mind blown
Wood glue and finely ground coffee makes nice dark areas, especially on spalted wood, often barely noticable. Thanks for all videos you make. Helps me a lot!
Hello Ken turned a bowl and filled the voids with brass powder wife saw it and her reaction was….That’s cr@ρ… .After watching your video I will go with the 5 min epoxy and walnut fine dust lets hope the lady will be satisfied:):) Thank you for sharing your knowledge on youtube
All the best
Yiannis (Athens Greece)
Thanks Kent. This 3 great tricks for handling cracks in your bowl. I am going to use these. Thanks again.
Sounds good Delmer! Happy Turning!
Kent. Great refresher on the methods you have shown in other videos. I have some red oak on the lathe that I have left sitting (and drying) after I rough turned the outside. 😢
The cracks are pretty deep and I need to fix them before I finish rough turning the inside. I am going to use the glue/saw dust method. I had forgotten about it.
Thanks for the reminder.
Chas
My pleasure Chas. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Great tutorial!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great info Kent.
Thank you, Jack!
I use all 3 of these techniques, however I have added another trick.
I drill a series of tiny holes and stitch across with braided fishing line. You have a huge amount of choices at that point.
Just a plain sewing job, you can do any type of stitching for patterns.
Also weave into the cross stitching.
If you choose the fiber based line, it can be died any color you want.
It can be soaked with CA to add rigidity ECT ECT.
Go explore the choices, and enjoy.
Thank you for writing and sharing, John! Please subscribe, and Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent. I'll use the Lacquer tip for the Super glue Stains. Yes they are a frustration.
You bet Peter. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Great tip Kent! I've had numerous bowls that I have simply put on the firewood pile that had cracks. This is one way to save a few. Best, Skip Proctor, ProctorWoodturning.
Once again after watching numerous videos on cracks, I come to your channel. Just like your riding the bevel video, your style of video is so simple, clear and consise. Thanks for your video's
Kent, I have used the CA and glue. It worked like a charm. I have not tried the epoxy as of yet. I have not had bad enough cracks or voids yet. I know that in time I will run into this situations. To any that have not signed up for your online courses don’t wait. You will kick yourself after you struggle for awhile then signup only to find out that the frustration could have been avoided. Don’t ask how I know. Kent knows it’s called the school of hard knocks. Thanks Kent for all of your help.
Sounds good Kevin. Well, now you have the info. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Great tips Ken
Thank you kindly! Happy Turning!
I've used the wood glue trick and CA glue but not the epoxy. Just haven't had the extra money to try the epoxy. Thanks for sharing! TAKE CARE AND GOD BLESS 🙏!
My pleasure, Stephen. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Your awesome Kent thanks 👍👍👍👍
Thank you, Radar! (blushing) All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I love using epoxy but for a quick fix I use J.B. Qwik. I'm also going to try good old Bondo and see how it works.
Another great video, thank you sir.
My pleasure, Orlando. Happy Turning!
Hey Kent, I had this problem today. I was making mortar and pestles and one of the blanks had a huge knot. I love knots because they look so awesome when finished. So of course I cut the mortar like I would any other bowl. Well as luck would have it part of the knot busted out and shattered to pieces just as I was finishing up. So my solution was to use Gorilla Clear Super Glue (it does not stain the wood BTW but does take a bit longer to fully dry) on all the remaining parts of the knot. I ended up with a bowl with hole rather low in the side which I had to finish with sand paper (as I said I was almost done). Since it could not be used as a mortar, who wants a mortar that the ingredients will fall out of, it is now an amazing candle holder for votive or tea light candles and my girlfriend loves it. Thanks for the idea about the wood glue and sanding. That is very cool I will try it the next time I deal with cracks. Yall have a wonderful day.
I've used the wood glue and sanding trick many times with beautiful results. You're essentially making a wood paste with the wood you're working with.
Right on, Gregory. Happy Turning!
Thanks Kent for this information - i like your chanel
Thank you, Rainer! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Thank you great info as usual happy new year to you and your family
Regards
Steve UK London
Great techniques, thanks!
Thank you, Debbie! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Now I need to go out and crack something I just have to try that technique as always I have enjoyed your video have a wonderful day where do you get your epoxy from
Hi, good video. I like all of these methods. I’d like to share what I do on bowls that have cracks that appear going from the rim toward the foot. I drill a 3/8 in hole thru the crack with a fortsner bit. Then with my dowel bit, make dowels of contrasting wood and use titebond to glue it in place. Most of the time it stops the advance of the crack.
When I needed to fill up a large void I used alcohol. Thanks for the tips. :p
Timely watch for me, I am dealing with crack issues right now.
Love when you find what you need when you need it, Pete. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
I use mineral oil around the cracks before filling it with ca or pva
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Happy Turning!
Thanks I’m sure it will be a great help
You're welcome, Dennis. Happy Turning!
Great advice I’m going to try them on an old piece of wood my mother found for me that’s quite badly cracked I’m new to turning but am loving it and really appreciate the advice!
You can do it! Enjoy and Happy Turning!
I have used about every method known to man such as epoxy, wood glue and wood dust, super glue, every type of filler such as glitter, stains, wood dust etc. that I could think of. I like a more “natural look” instead of artificial colors and wood shavings. I sometimes use colored super glue on “very fine” cracks. What I have gone to is a 50/50 mix of wood glue and very finely ground coffee grounds. It gives an enhanced more natural look to the crack. I use this on large to very large cracks. I clean out the crack, mix up my concoction and force it down into the crack using a sharp point and pressure. I let it set over night and on large cracks usually have to fill in again as it will shrink. If you have a crack that goes all the way though to the inside of the turning just use tape on the inside to create a dam. When re-turbing use a very sharp tool and go lightly. I have had very good results and comments from customers and it has a nice natural look.
Doyle, that sounds like a great process. Thank you for writing and sharing! Do you have issues with the coffee staining? Happy Turning!
no staining but it does shrink when drying so sometimes have to refil. Very hard and does not chip out.@@TurnAWoodBowl
Wow a lot of GREAT info thanks
Thank you, James! Happy Turning!
I've actually used all 3 techniques. For me, it depends on the crack, type of wood, and what I'm going to use the turning for. Thanks for the video 👍👍✌️
Yes indeed Gary. Each sized crack needs to be addressed differently. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl your videos are awesome! 👍👍
Bro Kent my lathe doesn’t have that nob on the side to turn the chuck / faceplate on top head stock.. when turning larger blanks I am weary of my threads on the headstock / face plate / chuck getting stripped eventually.. :/
But I’m sure I can get the part to fix it, just kind of seems like a design flaw to me. I’m running the grizzly G0462 - first lathe I’ve had and getting great results so not in a hurry to upgrade but the lack of features like I described is a bit of a drag and the no reverse too! But with all that being said it’s been easy to learn on and not too difficult. It’s also belt driven but variable speed.. no direct drive! My plan is in a few years to get a robust tools lathe like yours as they seem super nice! If I can afford it 😂
As usual, very helpful and practical information! As you say, the addition of resin to wood turning (hybrid or resin by itself) has become super popular. Suggestion: create some bowl turning videos using resin!!!
Thanks Gary, I'll see what I can do. Happy Turning!
Good information. Thanks!
Thank you, Jon!
Thank You!
You're welcome, Lewis! Happy Turning!
Thanks for the tips, don't forget about using coffee grounds to fill holes or cracks in dark wood.
Sounds good Jean. Thanks and Happy Turning!
Great video Kent. Thank you very much.
Thank you, Anthony! Happy Turning!
thank you brotha
You're welcome! Happy Turning!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Your channel is a "go to" when I'm stuck.
You're welcome, Tim! Thank you kindly for your support! Happy Turning!
Great tricks! I particularly like de second trick because is the most common in my workshop! But all 3 are very important to solve this cracks! Thanks a lot!
Glad to help! Enjoy and Happy Turning!
I really like the trick to use spray lacquer to mask the wood so that the thin CA glue doesn't bleed. I've had more than one bad experience with bleeding. Thanks for sharing Kent.
me too. just fighting it yesterday. I'm excited to try it.
My pleasure, Jim. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Good tips. I like the wood glue and sanding the best. Turns out the most reliable for me. Thanks for sharing
Yes, agreed Lou. Happy Turning!
I am a new wood turner and I find your videos very helpful. I have been having a problem with cracks and have used CA glue and several fillers in the cracks but always, always hated seeing the stain left by the glue. I will certainly try the wood glue and sanding procedure. Thanks for all the helpful information.
Hope you like it Dennis. Happy Turning!
Thx for all your time and effort you put in your videos , there is always something to learn from you .
Thank you kindly, Mike! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Good video Kent, I use used coffee grounds as a filler with CA glue. I also regrind them finer to get down into small cracks better.
I too have used coffee grinds. It was to replace a knot that fell out, the coffee looked just like the knot.
Sounds great John. Happy Turning!
Used coffee grounds and five-minute epoxy has been my go-to for years. Espresso straight from the package is good for finer cracks. I had trouble grinding regular coffee grounds.
Always a good video. Very informative. Thanks for sharing
Thank you! Happy Turning!
Kent, another informative, helpful video. Thanks. Another method if the cracks are large enough and still on the flat wood before turning, you could bowtie them for an interesting effect.
I like the idea of using 5-minute epoxy when you want to deal with the crack/hole while turning
Yes, that could be nice. Thank you for writing and sharing! Happy Turning!
Wow just the information I needed to get through this thank you
Perfect, Peter. Enjoy and Happy Turning!
Kent, you present some very good ideas; ideas I have used in the past successfully. However, there is a fourth alternative that I have found to be successful, as well.
A lot of the wood I turn typically has many large voids and cracks. I will fill the cracks in the way you demonstrated, but I will leave the voids like knot holes or where punky wood removed, etc. In doing so, the bowl takes on a uniqueness that Mother Nature caused. I incorporate those openings as part of the piece and let it go; I do nothing else other than sand and finish. I have sold many bowls doing things this way and people seem to like what I have done. And, from time to time, I will use a resin & color to fill the voids if the wood is a little bland and does not have much character. But, I also think resins can get a little pricey and if one turns a lot of bowls with voids like I typically do, the costs of buying resin can add up quickly. The same could be said for epoxies.
Most folks that I sell my turnings too use bowls for decorative purposes only. The voids in the turnings seem to add a character they apparently find desirable. But, I also say go with whatever floats your boat.
Great point J. Yes, going natural is always nice too. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Great info!!! Thanks
Great advice. Thanks so much !
Thank you! Happy Turning!
As always great info for new comers like me and thanks for sharing your skills with us.
Thank you, Brette. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Ken, Thank You for the lacquer trick. I made have known it but brain is getting foggy ! lol
Great info ! Using glue and sandpaper, and spray before using CA glue is info I will use !!!
Glad to help. Doug. Happy Turning!
What about the technique of using black CA to celebrate the cracks?
That can work if you'd like a darker fill. Happy Turning!
I’ve been playing around with milliput recently as another option for larger crack/hole filling with mixed emotions. On one hand, the variety of color options lends to some interesting results. On the other side of the coin, if the milliput tends to need to be used in thicker or deeper cracks because when it is thin instances, it tends to want to crack and chip. I’ve also seen this newer product that is applied with a glue gun? Just some other options I’m sure you have already explored long before I ever knew of them. Super informative as usual sir.
Thank you for writing and sharing! Sounds like a colorful and fun option. I’ll check that out. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
When I use saw this for patching it usually looks really good until I put on a finish then it seems like it goes a lot darker than the rest of the wood .any suggestions thank you for the locker tip I'm going to try it next time I
@@eldenwelchman6054 I’m sure you were probably asking Kent this question, but I have a couple suggestions if you don’t mind hearing them. I use two different products that don’t seem to effect the color of the milliput.
One is Howard’s furniture polish which is just beeswax and orange oil. The other is pure Carnuba wax. I bought a nice sized piece from Amazon and it’s lasted me years. I’ve had good results with these.
@@eldenwelchman6054 I agree. When I use wood glue or CA I get the same staining on each side of the crack, even when doing it like shown here. I am surprised I don't see that with his wood. Have you come up with any answers or suggestions?
Thank you so much for taking time to tech us I’m just starting and you have been a life saver and amazing person you are the best this video is amazing I’m definitely looking forward to doing this with cracks and holes thank you I did not know what to do with the problem I’ve turned some cherry and walnut and red oak and white oak but the cherry is cracking really bad
And as always… a great presentation! Thank you Kent. This comes at a very appropriate time. So much of my wood…maple , walnut, plum and cherry is cracking like mad. Yes I know, it was down to my storage method. But even so I have about the equivalent of a half cord of each of these drying under my deck, which in the summer is way too hot. So, I’m turning a lot of “cracky” wood. I often used your glue and sandpaper method, that I picked up from you some time ago. I now have two other great choices!
Cheers, Rick
Thank you for writing and sharing Rick! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Interesting…. But what you say about filing a crack of 1/8 or 1/4 inch wide crack, say a couple of inches long ? Will the wood glue and sandpaper method work for something that wide ? Curious.
Yes it can. You might need to apply it in a couple of layers. Happy Turning!
Seen quite a few vids where the turner used some dust from their job combined with CA Glue seems to do the job or if the big holes use Epoxy
Yes, but the dust usually changes color when mixed with epoxy. Happy Turning!
Hi Kent, great video quick question how long do you wait before surface finishing (oil, lacquer etc) after epoxy?
So, are you saying that wood isn't always what it's cracked up to be? 🤣🤣
On a serious note, I have a hunk of box elder which has some ring shake. Can that be stabilized (for example, with epoxy) or should I do something else with it? The wood is still green: the tree was felled in October, I put sealer on it in early December.
Hi, love the in-depth videos. I've been turning pens for a while, but yesterday I started my first bowl. It ended up having a decent size crack. My first thought would be to try Durham's water putty. Have you ever tried that? I might use the colored epoxy method instead, but just curious if that would work. Thanks!
You can also fill in diferent wood. If you have larger holes or cracks.
Yes indeed Jens! Happy Turning!
What about end grain? Can you fill in all the tear out with wood glue and saw dust?
I have a quarter inch wide crack in my mahogany bowl ? Any answers?
Thnx, again!
One can use soft stone (white alabaster) and ca-glue as alternative for epoxy.
Or mix woodglue with fine shavings or wooddust to a thick paste (longer to dry).
Third and last: mix wooddust with bakingsoda (3:1) as a filler with ca-glue: the glue reacts (rather quickly) with the bakingsoda to a very hard substance: the wooddust will make it a bit softer and will match color.
As always: thnx for you fantastic videos.
interisting and helpful
Sounds good. Thank you for writing and sharing! Happy Turning!
What direction should we sand if the crack we put wood glue in is on the end grain?
On the directon of the rings, as he does...
If you are sanding down on end-grain, there really isn't a direction to sand, just do you best by sanding the surface.
I have used this trick for awhile but I have a question , if the cracks continue to expand and make your work feel wobbly or off balance because it keels cracking will this gluing stop the crack from spreading ? Example I’m making a clock for a friend she wants it to be as close to the biggest diameter that my lath will do which is 16 inches so I started getting it round and it keeps getting wobbly I found the crack going from one side through the middle towards the other side, normally that blank would be put in the fire pit so I will wait to hear your response before I toss it out
Sorry for spelling voice to text does not always work to my benefit
Robert, if the crack is continuing it's probably because the wood isn't dry. I'd work on getting it as dry as possible first. Hope that helps. Happy Turning!
Thx for responding the blank was in a tin shed for about 5-10 yrs according to the gentleman I got it from , I checked it with the moisture reader and it was between 7-8
So I guess glue it and hope for the best and saying with a smile don’t stand in the path of flying projectiles
What tool do you use to cut the 5 min epoxy??
Same bowl gouges.
Very informative, Ken. What grit sandpaper do you use on the second method? Thanks for sharing.
Around 150 or 180. Thank you, Jim. Happy Turning!
Can the wood glue and then sanding work for a resin/wood combination? Thank you for great tips!!
Rex, I don't see why not. Experiment and find out. Happy Turning!
Kent, how do you deal with bubbles in the epoxy? Thanks for the instructive videos!
Garry not Linda. J, you can carefully and quickly heat the surface of the resin with the flame of a propane torch or with a heat gun or hair dryer. It will lower the surface tension of the resin allowing the bubbles to escape. Be very careful to not scorch the resin or the wood around it with the torch. Small flame, keep it moving.
A little light heat from a torch will do the job. Happy Turning!
Is using the wood glue/sandpaper technique safe for eating from that bowl?
I have a bowl similar to the one you are fixing in the video, but I'm eating in it almost every day :) also, I need to varnish the bowl again after using sandpaper, am I correct?
Yes, Uncle Owl (what type of owl are you? I love owls.) Once the glue is dry and new finish has been applied and cured properly, it should be food safe. Read all the info on the products. You might want to steer towards a "less chemical" glue. Hope that helps. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl Thanks so much for your reply and very useful videos. (I guess, I can call myself a Lonely Owl ;)
My father used to say,
IN GLUE AND DUST WE PLACE OUR TRUST, IF THAT WONT DO THEN PUTTY MUST
LOL. I like it Ken. Happy Turning!
You still have to let the wood glue dry, I tried your fix, and as soon as I started the lathe it slung the glue out !!!
👍👍🔥🔥
Say no to cracks.
Exactly! Happy Turning! ;)
CA what is CA???!!!!!!!!!! 😱 Cyanoacrelate?!!!! OMG, why can't you just say SUPER GLUE?!!! OR at least define the abbreviations sheesh! It took me almost 10 min searching to figure it out! lol
He said super glue at one point - relax
I like using finely ground coffee and CA glue.
Sounds good Dick. Happy Turning!