im 50/50 on this... i love some mortised and some tenoned... really just depends on the look and shape of the bowl... tenon is a much more traditional look, but a modern look with a large mortised base can be awesome also... that flat bowl example is not my cup of tra but a big thick walled bowl with a big wide base looks awesome and super solid on a mortised base...
So I’ve been turning in my spare time for about a year now and absolutely love turning bowls, I have learned so much from your videos, changed the profile of my gouges and started using tenons instead of mortise, you truly have been an inspiration, keep it coming ❤
Two other important reasons Kent has mentioned before for a tenon. First, if you're doing an end-grain mounted bowl, you must use a tenon because the outward force of the mortise can separate the rings and break the piece apart. Second, a foot can always be resanded if the bowl shifts and the bottom is no longer sitting flat.
Your a wonderful teacher and turner with so much experience. Many times when I turn bowls I make a tenon and a mortise, and make sure the center is marked which I feel is a very important part of turning a bowl. Thanks for so much important information, I learn something from every video you make.
Interesting take on this. I faceplate the bulk of my bowls first, create the exterior, putting a small, shallow mortise, sand bottom and sides,. Then remove it from the faceplate, flip it over and install it onto a chuck, and hollow out the bowl. Like 95% of the time. (Unless it's a live edge, them i,m between centers)
Well put, Kent. I too prefer a tenon. Expanding the jaws too far in a recess can split the bowl (don't ask me how I know this). The tenon is on the outside of the project. The recess has to be inside the project. Less room for error with recess. Love the tenon + shoulder buffer idea. Killed so many bowls blowing thru bottom because I was not paying attention. UGH! Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
I love your clear, calm and direct way of explaination, Kent. I should have watched this video before i turned a winged oak bowl...i cut a hole in the bottom and was damn angy with myself. Thank you for your tutorials !
For me, it all depends on the size of the wood blank. I prefer a recess when possible because I feel they are stronger than a tenon. I'm getting away from chucks mostly and have been using glue blocks mounted on face plates. With the glue blocks, mainly on twice-turned bowls, I don't have to worry about remount issues as I do with a chuck. I used to mark the tenon or recess where the #1 chuck jaw goes but still couldn't quite remount and get the bowl to mount/turn the same. I wet sand my bowls and mainly use danish oil for a finish so I need to go back and forth to the lathe many times. It makes it more productive when you're doing 10-15 bowls in a lot.
You make good points. I find (lately) that I use the mortise more on bowls. I have a bad habit of going back and recutting and it's nice to have the datum remain. Very good points, I'm sure you'll get lots of comments. But that's a good thing, thanks for launching the discussion.
Great video as usual. I agree with all of your logic, here...but. I turn medium, large bowls with a bit of thickness to them. 3/8 inch or so. They are practical bowls for apples, etc. I do use tenons, but I turn them off at the end. A practical bowl should not have a tiny base. It should be stable with 3 pounds of apples in it. Mortises and tenons each work well for that. My chucks are not large enough to make a large enough foot to make it work for my tastes. I guess I could add a tenon to a big foot then trim off the tenon, but that would require a lot of depth to get it all in. I guess I should call my bowls Sasquatch bowls.
First bowl I turned (in a class no less) was with a mortise. Since then, most bowls I've done are tenons, unless I want a mortise on the bowl for some aesthetic reason.
We need a video showing how to accurately measure the depth of a bowl so you can determine how far you are from going through the bottom. That would save a lot of bowls!
Clarence, If you use a tenon with shoulder and you maintain the wall thickness down the side wall, like I demonstrate often, you will not go through the bottom of the bowl. Happy Turning! Kent
this was very informative. I usually use a tenon. My one other reason for using a recess is the punkiness of the wood presented on the bottom. I have had some where I could not avoid a knot or something and the recess allowed me to get around it or remove it in the process. I think you need to develop the skill with both so you can make the right choice when it presents itself. I currently have a 5 lb Sycamore blank chucked up and decided to use a recess on it just to challenge my ability to work with it. So far so good. After turning it around, I kind of wish I had gone with a tenon, but her I am now, so, experience time!
Another informative video. Tenon or mortise comes down to personal preference, and as you stated, is sometimes determined by the piece itself or the size of the blank being used. I use both techniques in my turnings, predominantly based upon the size/dimensions/shape of the piece. But the one I use most often is the tenon. Great video, as usual. Again, I always walk away from your videos feeling like I just had a master class taught by a master craftsman. Thank you and keep up the fantastic work. 👍👍👏👏
Brand new to wood turning and your channel. I'm on my 3rd (practice) bowl. I used a mortise on my 2nd bowl. Went well until I put a hole through the base of the bowl. Will be using tennon until I get a little better.
As I commented on another video, I switched from tenon to mortise because for some reason mortises haven't been falling off where tenons have. I need a new chuck.
I use either a mortise or tennon depending on the condition of the wooden blank. If there is any doubt regarding a crack then I choose the tennon. I prefer the mortise as when the bowl is complete and the base is trued there is less wood removed from the height. Also I like to turn inside and outside in one setting and the mortise allows me to do that and not have the chuck Jaws interfere. I also like to use a jumbo screw to hold the initial turning.
I almost always use a mortice, it's just the way I learned... But... you've made some great arguments for using a tenon instead so i'll have to try that more often.
I have made a foot out of a different colored wood several times for such flat bowls as you show in 15:10 and fitted it into the recess. This also looks very nice and the bowl looks "complete".
I blow out Mortises all the freaking time, more often than i'd like. I posted a blown out mortise and a couple days later you set me straight with this video. Thank you Kent. #pimpt #perfectlyimperfect
Yes indeed. Just figure out what happened so you can avoid that again. It’s a real problem when people don’t take the time to learn what happened and repeat the same issue. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Side note: I believe you are in the central Florida area. I pray you fared well with the storm (Ian) that ripped thru Central Florida. Great opportunity for bowl blanks, eh! Chainsaw is in the truck. Eyes are looking for future projects. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Lou, yes the storm side swiped us but no real damage here. Much appreciated. Take care and Happy Turning! And yes, I’ve landed a hickory tree. 😉😁
Well, biggest difference I can see between using a tenon or a recess, the tenon has to be turned off. The recess is a finished bottom. I do turn green to final thickness, let them dry and warp, then sand and finish. You do need a lathe that goes down to 10 to 15 rpm for being able to power sand. The oval recess is no problem for mounting, though you have to wiggle it around a bit for a secure fit. You don't need the grip for sanding that you do for turning.
I agree that people should use the style they prefer. Giving options for each style is a benefit to all turners. One shouldn't knock one over there other, if it works someone.
I like your teaching. Trying to get things together. I've turned spindles but want to do bowls. Haven't got the chisels yet all I've found close is harbor Freight an I don't think they will do. Need to find where I can get wood turning equipment.
Not to be argumentative, I respect your ability and skill but I have made dozens of bowls and I have never once used a tenon and I very seldom need to use the tailstock to make my mortises. My reasoning is it is much more simple to finish the bottom using a mortise and if I have to do a second turn it just works so well with a mortise. I use a faceplate and use double sided carpet tape to attach it when creating the mortise, then I use the tailstock to rough out the outside of the bowl. Works for me and the type of bowls I make, not for everyone of course.
Kent, I appreciate how much knowledge you provide in your videos. They are great. I bought a HF lathe because of your channel! This discussion, I never see anything about recessed tenons?! Made some pine 2x10 platters, but felt weary about expanding the chuck into pine. Thoughts? Thanks!
Great info, Kent. Have you ever checked out the glue-on tenon Jim Sprague uses? His method of gluing one on works quite well. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the next video
Hi Kent, I've watched many of your videos and if you've mentioned this in any of them I must have missed it. Is that a mesh cloth/material behind you in this video and do you use that to help keep the shavings from going all over the shop? I'm using a canvas painters drop cloth for that purpose but a mesh fabric that would let air through would be much better.
Hello, Do you have a video that addresses the use of a spindle gouge ? Such as the various shapes of the gouge and specifically how to use the spindle gouge. Similar to the videos on the proper use of the bowl gouge. Personally , I have had disastrous results cutting the tenon off and shaping the foot. I am not familiar with the particulars of properly using the spindle gouge and the variations of the tool and just can not figure it out.. I have been using mortises because I have ruined a number of bowls and am fearful ruining more. Thank you
I'm making some coasters for a friend to match some he already owns. The wood I have means if I create a tenon it can only be about 3/32" thick (2.5mm) max. The coasters are 4 1/4"(11cm) diameter - do you think this should be adequate. I did consider a mortice but the wood at centre is only 13/64" (5mm) thick. Did think of a glue block but I have 18 of these to make (made the mistake of showing the sample around!) Any advice. Really enjoy your channel and always learn something.
So Kent, you leave the tenons on then, correct? And you don't use a parting tool to knock them off? I had started off using tenons as they made more sense, but found I could never get the dovetail angle correct for my chuck and then the jaws leave a pretty good indention on the base. So I went to using mortises almost exclusively. I would assume I would need a jam chuck of sorts to part a tenon off for the inside of the bowl.
I always say use whats comfortable to you. For me its a recess as i always have pieces comes off the lathe when using a Tennon. Dont get me wrong, with the challange i have with my lathe currently, i am forced to use Tennons instead of a Recess, but a Recess to me is by far more secure than a Tennon. I always say, do whats more comfortable and safer for you personally.
The last 2 bowls I turned are live edge. Both of the tenons broke while trying to turn the inside. I think it was due to the interrupted cut, turning air and wood. I ended up saving the bowls by turning a mortice on the inside of the bowl, gripping the broken tenon with the chuck and the tail stock up and using a parting tool to cut the mortice on the inside. then I reversed the chuck to the inside of the bowl and turned a mortice on the bottom. the first bowl was a dry hickory log, I learned two things - don't use dry wood for a live edge bowl and don't use hickory (too hard). the second bowl is cherry and I think the tenon was just too small. the cherry was still wet when I turned it. I will try again, I have more cherry.
Thank you for writing and sharing Raymond. Perhaps make lighter cuts with each pass and be sure to keep your gouge sharp, especially with hickory. Probably needs sharpening every 10 mins or less. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl thank you for the tips, I have only been turning for 2 years and Have one 1/2" bowl gouge with an Irish grind. would a larger gouge help? how would a bottom bowl gouse also be of use?
Barbara, About 3/8" about, but alway less than the top of the jaws to the bottom of the inside of the chuck. The tenon should never bottom out in the chuck. Happy Turning! Kent
The shoulder only needs to be wide enough to fit the top of the jaws. The tenon size is most important. See my website and search “tenon size.” I have a full article there. Happy Turning!
if you go through the bottom of bowl, you can make a bird feeder just put a branch through. best is 2 bowls bigger on top for rain protection and bird feed in bottom. they look good. branch with tennons and mortices so they protude out of top and bottom and hold the 2 bowls facing eachother know what i mean okay bye
Tenons are not steady on bowls. Like the one you showed saying keys it would be tipping over. I do a raised mortise tenon donut chucks work great for finishing the bottom.. I have better luck on mortises than I do tenons. On platters I use a glue on block. There again I've done both mortise and tenon.
My customers love tenons on my bowls, rice bowls, and Raman bowls--My wife is Thai and she thinks a bowl without a tenon looks un-natural. So eat that.
It’s funny, I think it looks better and cleaner with a mortise. I want my bowl to sit on the table, not on some out of place foot sticking out underneath.
Love your vids. (But why always say "recessed mortice"? Nobody will be trying to imagine a raised or convex mortice! because that would be a... tenon. You never feel you need to specify a raised tenon- as opposed to a recessed tenon- because such a pleonasm is silly and unnecessary. So just "mortice".) A fan.
finalmente un video americano in cui si spiega che la presa mandrino interna è una cosa sbagliata. oltre ad espandere le fibre fa proprio schifo esteticamente
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
A perfect explanation, Kent, and exactly what I have found in my turning experience. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it Andy. Happy Turning!
Lots of good points. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome, Charles. Glad it was helpful! Happy Turning!
im 50/50 on this... i love some mortised and some tenoned... really just depends on the look and shape of the bowl... tenon is a much more traditional look, but a modern look with a large mortised base can be awesome also... that flat bowl example is not my cup of tra but a big thick walled bowl with a big wide base looks awesome and super solid on a mortised base...
So I’ve been turning in my spare time for about a year now and absolutely love turning bowls, I have learned so much from your videos, changed the profile of my gouges and started using tenons instead of mortise, you truly have been an inspiration, keep it coming ❤
Awesome! Thank you for sharing! All the best to you and Happy Turning! Kent
Two other important reasons Kent has mentioned before for a tenon.
First, if you're doing an end-grain mounted bowl, you must use a tenon because the outward force of the mortise can separate the rings and break the piece apart.
Second, a foot can always be resanded if the bowl shifts and the bottom is no longer sitting flat.
Great points Gregory! Thank you for writing and sharing! Happy Turning!
Your a wonderful teacher and turner with so much experience. Many times when I turn bowls I make a tenon and a mortise, and make sure the center is marked which I feel is a very important part of turning a bowl. Thanks for so much important information, I learn something from every video you make.
Thank you kindly, Kenneth! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Interesting take on this. I faceplate the bulk of my bowls first, create the exterior, putting a small, shallow mortise, sand bottom and sides,.
Then remove it from the faceplate, flip it over and install it onto a chuck, and hollow out the bowl.
Like 95% of the time. (Unless it's a live edge, them i,m between centers)
Sounds like a great process Brian. Well done. Happy Turning!
Well put, Kent. I too prefer a tenon. Expanding the jaws too far in a recess can split the bowl (don't ask me how I know this). The tenon is on the outside of the project. The recess has to be inside the project. Less room for error with recess. Love the tenon + shoulder buffer idea. Killed so many bowls blowing thru bottom because I was not paying attention. UGH! Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
Lou, like minds… 😉 Happy Turning!
I agree with you! When I have a thin piece of wood, I will glue a scrap block to it just so that I will have a tenon to grab onto. Thanks
Tarkel
Excellent Tarkel. Happy Turning!
As always, very informative and helpful to newbees.
Glad to hear it! Thank you, Ken! Happy Turning!
I love your clear, calm and direct way of explaination, Kent. I should have watched this video before i turned a winged oak bowl...i cut a hole in the bottom and was damn angy with myself. Thank you for your tutorials !
Your augmented for tenons was well prepared & presented
Thank you, Howard. Happy Turning!
For me, it all depends on the size of the wood blank. I prefer a recess when possible because I feel they are stronger than a tenon. I'm getting away from chucks mostly and have been using glue blocks mounted on face plates. With the glue blocks, mainly on twice-turned bowls, I don't have to worry about remount issues as I do with a chuck. I used to mark the tenon or recess where the #1 chuck jaw goes but still couldn't quite remount and get the bowl to mount/turn the same. I wet sand my bowls and mainly use danish oil for a finish so I need to go back and forth to the lathe many times. It makes it more productive when you're doing 10-15 bowls in a lot.
Sounds good Greg. Do what works for you. Happy Turning!
Thankyou for your advice regarding tenons, it all makes sense now, ie when double turning etc. Thanks again Kent. Cheers Gazzaa
You make good points. I find (lately) that I use the mortise more on bowls. I have a bad habit of going back and recutting and it's nice to have the datum remain. Very good points, I'm sure you'll get lots of comments. But that's a good thing, thanks for launching the discussion.
Thank you for writing and sharing Tim! Happy Turning!
Really well explained and balanced, a great video well done. I normally do mortices but will definitely change, thanks
Great Tom! Happy Turning!
Great video as usual. I agree with all of your logic, here...but. I turn medium, large bowls with a bit of thickness to them. 3/8 inch or so. They are practical bowls for apples, etc. I do use tenons, but I turn them off at the end. A practical bowl should not have a tiny base. It should be stable with 3 pounds of apples in it. Mortises and tenons each work well for that. My chucks are not large enough to make a large enough foot to make it work for my tastes. I guess I could add a tenon to a big foot then trim off the tenon, but that would require a lot of depth to get it all in. I guess I should call my bowls Sasquatch bowls.
Great informative explanation Kent. Thank you for sharing!
My pleasure Jon! Happy Turning!
First bowl I turned (in a class no less) was with a mortise. Since then, most bowls I've done are tenons, unless I want a mortise on the bowl for some aesthetic reason.
Roger that!
We need a video showing how to accurately measure the depth of a bowl so you can determine how far you are from going through the bottom. That would save a lot of bowls!
Clarence, If you use a tenon with shoulder and you maintain the wall thickness down the side wall, like I demonstrate often, you will not go through the bottom of the bowl. Happy Turning! Kent
this was very informative. I usually use a tenon. My one other reason for using a recess is the punkiness of the wood presented on the bottom. I have had some where I could not avoid a knot or something and the recess allowed me to get around it or remove it in the process. I think you need to develop the skill with both so you can make the right choice when it presents itself. I currently have a 5 lb Sycamore blank chucked up and decided to use a recess on it just to challenge my ability to work with it. So far so good. After turning it around, I kind of wish I had gone with a tenon, but her I am now, so, experience time!
Sounds good Jeff. Do what works best for you. Happy Turning!
Another informative video. Tenon or mortise comes down to personal preference, and as you stated, is sometimes determined by the piece itself or the size of the blank being used. I use both techniques in my turnings, predominantly based upon the size/dimensions/shape of the piece. But the one I use most often is the tenon. Great video, as usual. Again, I always walk away from your videos feeling like I just had a master class taught by a master craftsman. Thank you and keep up the fantastic work. 👍👍👏👏
Sounds great Brad. Thank you for writing and sharing! Happy Turning!
That makes perfect sense to me I love the way you explain it helps me understand thanks again keep up the good work
You’re welcome Duane. Glad this helped. Happy Turning!
My tenon-cy is to use a tenon :)
Thanks for this Kent!
😁 I like that! Happy Turning!
Brand new to wood turning and your channel. I'm on my 3rd (practice) bowl. I used a mortise on my 2nd bowl. Went well until I put a hole through the base of the bowl.
Will be using tennon until I get a little better.
Point taken. Thank You.
👍🏻
As I commented on another video, I switched from tenon to mortise because for some reason mortises haven't been falling off where tenons have. I need a new chuck.
Sounds like good reasoning. Are the jaws dovetailed?
I use either a mortise or tennon depending on the condition of the wooden blank. If there is any doubt regarding a crack then I choose the tennon. I prefer the mortise as when the bowl is complete and the base is trued there is less wood removed from the height. Also I like to turn inside and outside in one setting and the mortise allows me to do that and not have the chuck Jaws interfere. I also like to use a jumbo screw to hold the initial turning.
I almost always use a mortice, it's just the way I learned... But... you've made some great arguments for using a tenon instead so i'll have to try that more often.
Same of u always a mortice
Give it a try you might like it. Happy Turning!
I have made a foot out of a different colored wood several times for such flat bowls as you show in 15:10 and fitted it into the recess. This also looks very nice and the bowl looks "complete".
Great idea Grobi. Thanks for sharing All the best to you and Happy Turning!
I blow out Mortises all the freaking time, more often than i'd like. I posted a blown out mortise and a couple days later you set me straight with this video. Thank you Kent. #pimpt #perfectlyimperfect
i am a member of the funnel club but that is how i get better thanks
Yes indeed. Just figure out what happened so you can avoid that again. It’s a real problem when people don’t take the time to learn what happened and repeat the same issue. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Side note: I believe you are in the central Florida area. I pray you fared well with the storm (Ian) that ripped thru Central Florida. Great opportunity for bowl blanks, eh! Chainsaw is in the truck. Eyes are looking for future projects. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Lou, yes the storm side swiped us but no real damage here. Much appreciated. Take care and Happy Turning!
Thanks Lou, yes the storm side swiped us but no real damage here. Much appreciated. Take care and Happy Turning! And yes, I’ve landed a hickory tree. 😉😁
Great video Ken! I'm more like you I would rather use tenon instead because you always have a chance to change the bottom. Take care and GOD BLESS 🙏!
Thank you, Stephen. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent, Nice explanation I use only tenons right now. I have had no need to use a mortise as of yet. Maybe some day just not today.
Do what works for you Kevin. Happy Turning!
Good video Kent. I use tendons about 95% of the time. Definitely more versatile as you explain. I look forward to your next video. HAPPY TURNING! 😀
Fantastic Bruce! Remember, do what works for (but I really like your style 😉) All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Well, biggest difference I can see between using a tenon or a recess, the tenon has to be turned off. The recess is a finished bottom. I do turn green to final thickness, let them dry and warp, then sand and finish. You do need a lathe that goes down to 10 to 15 rpm for being able to power sand. The oval recess is no problem for mounting, though you have to wiggle it around a bit for a secure fit. You don't need the grip for sanding that you do for turning.
Sounds good Robo. Happy Turning!
Interesting information, as always.
I agree that people should use the style they prefer. Giving options for each style is a benefit to all turners. One shouldn't knock one over there other, if it works someone.
Agreed John! Happy Turning!
Great instruction Kent.
Thank you, Jack! Happy Turning!
Actually learned a LOT.. Thank you!
Fantastic! Happy Turning!
I agree with you 100%
👍🏻😉
👍🏻😉
Knowledge!
🙏
I was taught to glue a sacrificial wood separated by a heavy price of paper. Then use a faceplate screwed to the sacrificial piece of wood.
Yes, that can work too. Happy Turning!
I like your teaching. Trying to get things together. I've turned spindles but want to do bowls. Haven't got the chisels yet all I've found close is harbor Freight an I don't think they will do. Need to find where I can get wood turning equipment.
Four sources come to mind: Packard Woodworks, Klingspor Woodworking Shop, Woodcraft, and Rockler. All of these sell wood turning tools and equipment.
Thank you
Jimmy, see my website and in the main menu click “Recommended Equipment.” Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl recommended equipment
Not to be argumentative, I respect your ability and skill but I have made dozens of bowls and I have never once used a tenon and I very seldom need to use the tailstock to make my mortises. My reasoning is it is much more simple to finish the bottom using a mortise and if I have to do a second turn it just works so well with a mortise. I use a faceplate and use double sided carpet tape to attach it when creating the mortise, then I use the tailstock to rough out the outside of the bowl. Works for me and the type of bowls I make, not for everyone of course.
I've used both and had both fail for various reasons. Most of the fails were older pieces of mahogany that were just to brittle for turning.
Agreed. Do what works. Happy Turning!
Kent, I appreciate how much knowledge you provide in your videos. They are great. I bought a HF lathe because of your channel! This discussion, I never see anything about recessed tenons?! Made some pine 2x10 platters, but felt weary about expanding the chuck into pine. Thoughts? Thanks!
Good question James. It should be fine as long as you leave plenty of material around the recessed mortise.
Great info, Kent. Have you ever checked out the glue-on tenon Jim Sprague uses? His method of gluing one on works quite well.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the next video
Yes Thank you for writing and sharing! That’s another option as well. Happy Turning!
Hi Kent, I've watched many of your videos and if you've mentioned this in any of them I must have missed it. Is that a mesh cloth/material behind you in this video and do you use that to help keep the shavings from going all over the shop? I'm using a canvas painters drop cloth for that purpose but a mesh fabric that would let air through would be much better.
Tim, check out this video ruclips.net/video/svt-Rrf550s/видео.html ;)
YEP I also like tenons. thanks.
Hello,
Do you have a video that addresses the use of a spindle gouge ? Such as the various shapes of the gouge and specifically how to use the spindle gouge. Similar to the videos on the proper use of the bowl gouge.
Personally , I have had disastrous results cutting the tenon off and shaping the foot. I am not familiar with the particulars of properly using the spindle gouge and the variations of the tool and just can not figure it out..
I have been using mortises because I have ruined a number of bowls and am fearful ruining more.
Thank you
I'm making some coasters for a friend to match some he already owns. The wood I have means if I create a tenon it can only be about 3/32" thick (2.5mm) max. The coasters are 4 1/4"(11cm) diameter - do you think this should be adequate. I did consider a mortice but the wood at centre is only 13/64" (5mm) thick. Did think of a glue block but I have 18 of these to make (made the mistake of showing the sample around!) Any advice. Really enjoy your channel and always learn something.
So Kent, you leave the tenons on then, correct? And you don't use a parting tool to knock them off? I had started off using tenons as they made more sense, but found I could never get the dovetail angle correct for my chuck and then the jaws leave a pretty good indention on the base. So I went to using mortises almost exclusively. I would assume I would need a jam chuck of sorts to part a tenon off for the inside of the bowl.
With tenon do you have to make it just short of the inside the jaw chuck
And with the mortis does it have to be deeper than the dove tail of the jaws
I always say use whats comfortable to you. For me its a recess as i always have pieces comes off the lathe when using a Tennon. Dont get me wrong, with the challange i have with my lathe currently, i am forced to use Tennons instead of a Recess, but a Recess to me is by far more secure than a Tennon. I always say, do whats more comfortable and safer for you personally.
Sounds good Japie. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl happy turning to you too
Ive seen you do a recess mortise. I would like to know what your preference for sharpening lathe tools.
Gary. Check this out www.TurnAWoodBowl.com/sharp Happy Turning!
Okay I am sold.
👍🏻
The last 2 bowls I turned are live edge. Both of the tenons broke while trying to turn the inside. I think it was due to the interrupted cut, turning air and wood. I ended up saving the bowls by turning a mortice on the inside of the bowl, gripping the broken tenon with the chuck and the tail stock up and using a parting tool to cut the mortice on the inside. then I reversed the chuck to the inside of the bowl and turned a mortice on the bottom. the first bowl was a dry hickory log, I learned two things - don't use dry wood for a live edge bowl and don't use hickory (too hard). the second bowl is cherry and I think the tenon was just too small. the cherry was still wet when I turned it. I will try again, I have more cherry.
Thank you for writing and sharing Raymond. Perhaps make lighter cuts with each pass and be sure to keep your gouge sharp, especially with hickory. Probably needs sharpening every 10 mins or less. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowl thank you for the tips, I have only been turning for 2 years and Have one 1/2" bowl gouge with an Irish grind. would a larger gouge help? how would a bottom bowl gouse also be of use?
What is the height of the tenon from the shoulder
Barbara,
About 3/8" about, but alway less than the top of the jaws to the bottom of the inside of the chuck. The tenon should never bottom out in the chuck. Happy Turning! Kent
How big should a shoulder be in relation to the bowl diameter?
The shoulder only needs to be wide enough to fit the top of the jaws. The tenon size is most important. See my website and search “tenon size.” I have a full article there. Happy Turning!
if you go through the bottom of bowl, you can make a bird feeder just put a branch through. best is 2 bowls bigger on top for rain protection and bird feed in bottom. they look good. branch with tennons and mortices so they protude out of top and bottom and hold the 2 bowls facing eachother know what i mean okay bye
I love it! Thank you for writing and sharing! Happy Turning!
Perhaps I missed this but how do you size the diameter of the tenon?
That’s a whole other topic indeed. See my website and search “tenon size.” Happy Turning!
Why do you suppose the manual that came with the NOVA chuck suggests a mortise for bowls? -xylology_est1983
Tenons are not steady on bowls. Like the one you showed saying keys it would be tipping over. I do a raised mortise tenon donut chucks work great for finishing the bottom.. I have better luck on mortises than I do tenons. On platters I use a glue on block. There again I've done both mortise and tenon.
Sounds good James. Do what works for you. Happy Turning!
What about gluing on a tenon?
That's an established technique. The piece glued on may be called a waste block or a glue block.
@@clarencegreen3071 I know, was curious his thoughts on it.
That’s another option also.
@@TurnAWoodBowl do you ever do that?
Bowls with a small foot look tippy
Yes. There are functional bowls and artistic bowls. Something both. Happy Turning!
My customers love tenons on my bowls, rice bowls, and Raman bowls--My wife is Thai and she thinks a bowl without a tenon looks un-natural. So eat that.
So eat that? LOL OK. Happy Turning!
It’s funny, I think it looks better and cleaner with a mortise. I want my bowl to sit on the table, not on some out of place foot sticking out underneath.
I use tenons mainly because it is easier for me.
Sounds good Jonny! Happy Turning!
the old funnel maker syndrome... haha
Love your vids. (But why always say "recessed mortice"? Nobody will be trying to imagine a raised or convex mortice! because that would be a... tenon. You never feel you need to specify a raised tenon- as opposed to a recessed tenon- because such a pleonasm is silly and unnecessary. So just "mortice".) A fan.
LOL. Good question. Because some people call them recesses and others call them mortises. When I just say one, the other people get confused. ;)
The tenon leaves most woodturners not making the proper foot of a bowl...at least that's what I have seen.
finalmente un video americano in cui si spiega che la presa mandrino interna è una cosa sbagliata. oltre ad espandere le fibre fa proprio schifo esteticamente
We Artists never use tenons.
Well, aren't you special!
LOL!!!! ;)