Imari Platter Repair pt2
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2020
- This is the 2nd half of a long form repair video showing the amount of work involved in a simple, routine repair. No music sound track on this. This marks the 50th repair video on my RUclips channel.
As always many thanks to Ellen Wight for her camera work and helpful advice in making these video.
Tryly amazing! Seeing the broken pieces I would never have thought repair was possible. I’ll never ‘garbage’ porcelain again.
Congratulations on your 50th fascinating video. Music-free is good, keep it up please.
Thanks for taking the time to share your skills with us. I have really enjoyed watching your videos and it has encouraged me to try some simple repairs myself. I have managed to find most of the materials required and only need to source a jar of patience and I am good to go.
Beautiful
Beautiful!
I hope they pay you well for your AMAZING work, but Japanese Imari porcelain isn’t even valuable at this point…But you sir, are among the finest artists I’ve witnessed…
Thank you very much!
amazing work...
I came across your videos tonight after purchasing a 19 century terroctta ming dynasty coutier statue. When I purchaesd it I knew it was damaged but I thought it had all its broken bits. My mistake it has a huge hole in its middle with a major part missing.:( I feel a bit foolish that I purchased it now. But your videos have given me a little hope. Thankyou.:)
Amazing.
Thanks!
O...M...G Just finished watching you glue back together a jigsaw vase and another that someone had put cement inside. There must be days when you just go .. why didn't I become a hairdresser..... hahahahahaha.
Before you fill and spray, but just after you have stuck together, wouldn't photos of the areas that will be covered be useful so you can see what you need to paint back under the spray, especially if an intricate pattern? Very enjoyable to watch you work - awesome result.
Yes, I always take before and after photos and sometimes one or two in between "before" and "after".
will the white cast where the breakage points were merge with the original slightly yellowed background?
Thanks for the extended section of hand painting; totally fascinating and instructive. What an amazing skill you have, it must have taken many hours to finish.
With regard to the colour mixing, could you tell me the approximate amount of paint you end up with for the Airbrush? I can eventually get a good match for the colour, but I’m failing to end up with enough paint to use in an Airbrush.
I’m totally refusing to buy myself an airbrush until I’ve mastered this.
I’m also struggling with the grade of Micromesh I need to use when sanding between applications of glaze. I’m using 2400 at the moment, but I’m not sure if that is giving the necessary roughness for the next coat. I’m afraid of using anything lower as I’m concerned that I might remove the glaze completely.
Any help you can offer on these processes would be gratefully appreciated.
re: paint mixing: Well, it's something I've learned over time. I just know from experience (usually. . .) how much paint I'll need. Sometimes I miscalculate. That's why when I'm mixing colors I keep track of how many drops of each color I'm using, so that, if I need more, it's easier to get the same color quickly. I'll try to address this in a future video.
MicoMesh: 2400 is my go-to standard abrasion between coats. Anything lower is pretty aggressive. It should give you plenty of "tooth" for the next application of paint and/or cold glaze.
@@marsgitar Thank you so much for this information. I understand a lot of the process of painting is experience. I think I need to be more generous with the amount of paint I make up.
With regard to the Micromesh, I can’t thank you enough for this guidance. I was finding it very frustrating as I wasn’t able to assess the effectiveness of what I was trying to achieve. Now I can approach it with more confidence and with more of a sense of achievement.
From 20.00 - 22.40 a turntable would be a bit helpful IMO. Beautiful result though, congrats Martin.
Thanks, Tas. To do this with a turntable it must not have any play (wobble) in it at all as it turns. Also I have to be able to tilt the thing I'm painting sometimes as well. Works better on smaller objects.
Dear Master! With great pleasure I watched your films. It's amazing! I have a private question - what paints do you use to restore the lost drawing?
I use Golden brand acrylic paints for painting the designs. I use Sylmasta Cold Glaze to seal it.
@@marsgitarThanks for the answer! And another technological point - do you mix it with paint before painting or cover the whole product after painting?
@@user-yn8et9qv7s I cover (seal) the cold glaze after each painting session. When I'm done painting, I cover all of the painted areas again with 2 or 2 coats of sealer . . . in most cases . . . there are exceptions with different kinds of repairs.
@@marsgitar thank you very much! I figured it out with that. Another question - how does the paint fix on the heads of the dolls - is there unglazed porcelain?
@@user-yn8et9qv7s Yes, some porcelain doll heads are not glazed.
Добрый день! Какую краску используете ?