Lap Siding Installation Basics
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
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This house used to be a 1970s raised ranch, but now it’s a zero energy home with a modern flair. Two types of fiber cement siding are used: panels and lap siding.
This video is about lap siding, but all of the siding is part of a high performance rainscreen which allows drainage behind the siding.
Four inches of foam was added to the outside of the walls, and it was held in place with furring strips.
Because foam compresses, before installing siding, you have to align the furring strips into a perfectly-- flat -- plane. (X2)
This is done with a string line.
On houses with lap siding, it makes sense to use a story pole to keep the courses consistent.
The siding on this house is broken up by Windows and doors whose trim extend the full height of the wall, so the layout is very simple: small sections of siding fill the spaces between.
That means, there is only one reveal pattern, so one story stick.
The story board marks were transferred onto each piece of vertical trim.
The marks represent the bottom of each course of siding.
There are a couple of longer sections that will require splicing two pieces of siding together to cover the section of wall, so David decides on a joint pattern and makes notes on the strapping as to what pieces he’ll need to start each course of siding.
And then he gets to work cutting starter pieces.
While the guys install the starter pieces, they can get numbers for the finishers and holler them out to him.
But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.
Cut edges need to be sealed before installation. This is a primer/paint mixture provided by the manufacturer.
Install the first piece about a quarter inch above the base flashing. This lets water drain out and also acts as a capillary break, so that the siding won’t wick water.
The siding is being blind nailed along the nailing line suggested by the manufacturer.
Now we can holler out those numbers to David.
Successive courses go up, and siding is spaced so that a full course can ride over the top of trim blocks for electrical boxes and dryer vents. Had the window trim not extended all the way up, siding would be spaced to align with window tops and bottoms as well.
Behind joints in the siding are pieces of flashing.
It can be hand nailed or gun nailed, but the point is to direct water out of the siding as soon as it sneaks in.
This is called bouncer flashing.
(It is not really called bouncer flashing)
On the long runs, Calvin marks the reveal for the next course with a combination square.
You can also use a gauge block.
The small sections should be the same length as you go up the wall. Sometimes there are variances, but if you notice the siding growing each course, you may be pushing the trim apart, so it is worth double-checking a few places.
If the cuts are square, they should butt perfectly into the trim boards. If the trim is installed plumb.
Which it is.
Filling in the little pieces means making the parts work as a whole to keep water out, while looking great for centuries to come.
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If I was an insect, I would be thrilled at the way this siding was installed. Lots of space for me and my whole family to set up shop because of the omission of an insect screen. Also no starter strip at the bottom course of siding. No gaps between butt joints for expansion. No gaps that I can see between siding boards and vertical pieces of trim--these should be held back 1/8" and filled with backer rod, then polyurethane caulk. Rainscreen furring strips should be treated with preservative in order to prevent rot caused by the moisture trapped behind the siding. Looks like you used untreated softwood for the furring, which is not going to resist rot at all.
Good job priming the end cuts prior to installation.
Rainscreen systems are excellent, and the exterior insulation was a great way to get additional performance from the 2X4 wall framing. However, I don't think this siding was installed per the manufacturer instructions and I'd be concerned about whether it will perform properly over time.
If you were an insect, it would be astounding that you're watching youtube videos AND COMMENTING!
There is an insect screen at the bottom of the siding to prevent insects from getting it. he uses a plastic mesh, like mortar vent and insect screen.
Excellent craftmanship 👍
Wow the first time ive seen a cavity batten in US construction!! this is regulation in New Zealand right now. Much better system having the air space
Another tip is when you put the battons on, cut them on a angle so if any water comes down it simply falls off instead of landing on a square cut
Very information dense, good job guys
ProTradeCraft .com I have over 500 subscriptions now including yours, sometimes I wonder if RUclips is even showing me all of them haha
Two things, first century’s to come ?.. and this addition ( box ) is bad design , you guys good job on the siding.
Why no expansion gaps at butt joints, and between end-cuts and wood trim?
This was summer, and the material was as expanded as it is going to be.
I’m surprised you can install hardi on strips , and I was told to gap the head and butt joints. No starter strip at the bottom?
next time use the proper flashing for the boards you installed. looks like 5/4 flashing onto a 3/4 board lol. big gap! looks awful
At 2:08 the flashing is mentioned, what is the size of the flashing?
your siding
I read the criticisms here, which are worth reading, but why not do your own video?
They did not do the required 3/16" gap at butt joints or at the trim. This siding job will fail.
Is that hardi siding?
Yes.
Those pockets behind the siding would make perfect homes for rodents and other pests
seephor needs a screen at the bottom
What are the black screws used to anchor the furring strips? How long were they?
They are structural framing screws, by FastenMaster, I think-there are a few brands.
These particular screws are about six inches because there is four inches of foam on the outside of the house. 4 inches + 3/4 in of furring + 1-1/4 inches of penetration into the studs.
Daniel Morrison thanks Daniel! Man they are expensive, about $1 per screw. Did you install them every 16” vertically along the 1x4 or 24”?
@@camhaines5482 I've been using a 6 inch t-25 exterior screw ordered from amazon, comes to about 20 cents a piece.
Timberlok is another brand
these guys have never heard of gecko clamps
Predetermined gauges keep a consistent width, but don't allow you to vary each course to ensure full courses run under and over windows, which gives a much more professional look.
This point is touched on at about 2:15 in the video.
Daniel Morrison .....ok😒