01-05 Civic "Limp Mode" No OBDII signal Fix (How to Replace the ECM)
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2020
- Hey guys! Back with another video! A recent problem ran into and was fixed. Had to replace my ECU in my 2002 Honda Civic. Wasn't too hard but takes time, tools, and patience!!!
NOTE: The car went into "limp mode" (super underpowered, misfiring, and not shifting past 3rd gear), and wouldn't connect to the OBII scanner. All other parts worked perfectly fine.
Edit: I made some errors in this video. I meant SOCKET, not Wrench LUL. As well as on the Ignition switch is held in by anti-Tamper BOLTS... You MUST cut in slots and use a flat head with an impact driver (or use some strength) to turn them out and then reuse them OR replace them with bolts.
PS: Those asking why I "left everything a mess", I didn't have enough time to record it. After I replaced the computer and Ignition switch and checked to make sure it worked I just did everything else in reverse. The same way these parts came out is the same way they go back in...
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Ok so I just bought a 2001 Honda accords. It’s has a motor swap on in. But it won’t go past 45mph. Everyone saying it’s a computer. I see where they have a computer out on the passenger side. Do you think that’s the issue.
Hey do you know where the tcm is located
holy frig this is a REALLY hard thing to do. I hated doing this just on my civic. Glad its over
Great day
Hey i have a 01 honda civic ex v-tec and my original computer was damaged. However, i wanna know if i get an emobolizer,ecu box etc from a car like mine. Can't it work after i reprogram it?
If you do it like how I did (purchase a used ECU, with corresponding immobilizer w/ keys) then it'll be plug and play. If you get just an ecu or immobilizer, you'll have to get them programmed into one another.
Thanks for this video. I have an 01 its not getting enough juice to engage the fuel pump. So its cranking but only firing up when I put gas directly in the intake. If that makes any sense. Thinking its a faulty computer because as far as I have researched that blue relay is for the fuel pump test light was dim when I checked the pump.. it has been sitting a while and jumped multiple times so its possible I fried the computer.. is there any way besides deductive reasoning to confirm the computer is the issue?
I say get a Voltage Probe and check the fuel Relay. See is the Computer is getting signal to the Relay and to the computer itself. Thats one way to trouble shoot it and see if it is or isn't.
I so appreciate you taking your time to advise me ♡ Thank you!
@@misschen2279 You're welcome! I hope it helps you out.
Hello sir..can i ask u question?.
My car Honda Civic 1.7 2003 have a problem that the engine can running only about 1 or 2 second and it off..when i use a scannner that was no fault codes that have been show...did the engine have a problem same like you sir?..
No fault codes with a check engine light normally means a fried ecu
My honda just went to limp mode when my alternater band ripped off ..i have a 2004 honda civic ex sedan .... cant seem to find the ecu for it any idea where i can find one
You could always check Ebay. That seems to be the best bet for a whole plug and play setup
Did you scan the car
So as long as the ecm and ignition matches it don’t matter much about the top line of numbers?
Correct. As long as it's out of the same make and model and years
I don't know why I'm laughing so hard imagining all the people that actually sat there trying an 8mm wrench like "WTF?! Why won't it work?!!!!"
what size is it?
@@Jordanbrezeing 10mm
Hi can anyone help trying too do the same thing mine is a 05 Honda Civic 5 manual Power windows so do I need an Computer off the same kind of car does my computer have to match the new one and the numbers or do I just need a new computer and ignition off the same year mine is also non-VTEC
The reason why I think the computer is broken is the previous owner did a shitty alternator job one of the top bolts weren’t even tight alternator was just going back-and-forth so I’m going to buy a new alternator bracket and used computer at a junkyard and ignition just trying to figure out if I need too Match the same numbers off my old computer to the newer one I’m trying to get or do I just need to make sure it’s non-VTEC as mine is and power windows and standard just need to match it or
Do you by any chance remember the codes the check engine light was giving you? I have a P1361 code (no communication to the TDC sensor. (Camshaft position sensor) and ive replaced the sensor and i dont have open circuit from pin 2 on the sensor to pin 26 on the ecm. As of this point the only other option has to be a bad ECM. But i was wondering if maybe i have the same problem you did. Do you remeber what codes you had?
So with my situation my ECM was so bad it wouldn't even allow me to read codes. A few people had similar issues like you did. Most had positive feedback after replacing the computer.
I have the same problem you have, im refurbishing my computer
I'm confused what was the steering column parts removed for?
The ECM is programmed to the key cylinder (Colume piece) For this to be plug in play and not require a computer/key reprogramming you must replace together.
We have an 01 Civic negative battery cable needed replaced when it would turn over one day. So we replaced it and while the car cranks great now nothing works inside. No radio, no dash lights, no locks, windows, etc. Swapped out all of the important fuses and relays under the hood and in the glove box to no help. It is almost like the electricity isn't going to the inside of the car. We are out of ideas and thinking maybe the ECM got shorted or something when the cable went bad.
I would recommend try plugging up a OBD2 Scanner and check to see if you yet any Codes or anything. If the ECM can't be read either while the car is on them yes the ECM is bad.
So if I buy a used ecm from another Honda civic I do have to program it? Or what scenario do I not need to
So like in the video if you get the ECM from the same Gen civic an get the matching/corresponding Ignition solenoid w/ key it's plug and play when you replace both. If you replace the computer you'll have to get it programmed
What a pain in the ass to remove🤯
If you’re civic 01-05 is burning rich, hard start, running rough, shits the bed at red lights than I suggest unplugging the negative post for a few mins, reconnect it. Now hop into the beater turn the key and start it and don’t touch anything just sit there pondering why you’re driving the pos in the first place. Anyway at this point if you’re searching vids on here than you’re probably having the ticking and rpm/temp gauges are probably jumping up and falling blah blah blah. Anyway just start it and let it idle for 11 minutes than turn it off and start it again. During that period the ecu is performing some kind of safety diagnostics on itself or something idk really know but this method worked for my ecu. I found it stashed away in an old forum from 2007. So after ordering another ecu or pulling one from the scrapyards for nothing try this out. I wish I’d found the guys post on that forum before I had pulled the original ecu out in the first place but it did work on the other one I installed.
Why did you have to work on ignition? Was it related to everyone? I thought you can change even without messing with ignition
@@trevorlane8123 I was lead to believe I had an ecu issue by Honda dealerships. If you’re having limp mode issues you may not need a new ecu. Instead of buying a brand new ecu I went to the scrap yard and found the same model Civic with the keys in the ignition. I pulled the ecu and the ignition so I wouldn’t need any programming needed.
@@dsmith421 ok that makes sense. I’m not having ecu issues, I drive an 02 Civic ex AT as well, 202k. Have you ever thrown a camshaft code P1361 & p1362?
@@trevorlane8123 hey sorry for the late reply No sorry didn’t experience any issues like that.
Hey man I have the same issue but did you went to go reset the computer ?
No personally I just swapped the ECM and Ignition out. Didn't wanna go through the headache of sending the ECM off and waste time and money because if its unrepairable then you're screwed and out of that money
Thanks for the video man This it the only helpful video I found on RUclips.
Hey would a 2003 civic ex ecu work with a lx car same year.
Am doing a engine swap to vtech
Id recommend kswapping if you have the money
My car is a 2005 dx I changed the ecu for an ex vtec ecu and vtec ex engine wire harness to run vtec
Just buy same year ecu and harness but make sure it’s vtec
hey brotha my 05 did the same thing (manual). so do i have to get a 05 manual ecu from the scrap yard to replace it with?
Yes. It must match up to your Spec for it to work. So you're able to get from like a 03-05 ECU w/ Key and Ignition Solenoid and it should plug and play perfectly. I recommend Ebay if you want to find a good package deal where you can seek all the info from the seller
Hey chief quick question I got a 01 Civic, same problem. question is: did you have to reprogram the new ECU or do anything to it?
I skimmed most of the video thanks and cheers
So if you get a used ECU with the ignition cylinder and key then no since it's all programed together already. If you just get a ecu/ecm then yes you'll have to have the key and cylinder programed to it
Does it matter if I have a manual transmission 1.7 2002 ? Can I use one from the auto transmission
Noooooooooooooooooooo, match the part number, don't mix and match! :D
I actually went to the dealer and the guy told me that it had to come off from an EX, that it didn't matter if it was auto or manual (I have an EX). The only difference I see is an extra black plug. I know some systems, both the engine and trans are managed by the ECU (Engine Control Module) I'm going to have to try and see what happens
Where did you get your replacement key, ECU and ignition? I can’t find any on ebay?
If not ebay, check Car-parts.com, or junkyards
@@Duggie.Douglas If I get it from the junkyard then I’d have to call a locksmith to cut a key and program it right? In your opinion which way is cheapest?
@@joelcasas7222 If you get just the computer then yes you'll need to have it programmed. If you get the corresponding ignition and key then its just plug and play . Cheapest route is to just get a computer ignition and key from a junkyard and doing the swap yourself.
Is there programming for the bew pcm?
If you buy it with a matching ignition switch then you won't need to. If you just buy a PCM you'll have to program it
I need to change my ecm also, once doing this I was told it needs to get reprogrammed, is it the key ignition or the ecm that needs to get reprogrammed
Technically both. But you gotta get the ECM and the Ignition solenoid programmed to one another. If you buy a used ECM with the respected ignition like I did it's plug and play
Question Where did you buy from Duggie Douglas For Plug and Play??
@@isaiahmontano7516 Ebay. Just make sure it's the same sub-model and has both the ECM with the ignition and key. If you get all 3 then it's plug n play. If you just get the ECM then you'll have to get your ignition program to the new ECM. Technically you can even go to a Junk and scrap yard but atleast with Ebay they'll let you know if it works and it has a return policy
So as long as they are pulled from the same car and it matches your trim model no programming? Honda service tech said he’s never heard of this when I spoke with them today. He said the part for my cars VIN for 03 civic ex auto, is 37820-PLR-426, I’m not seeing the 426 on any of them, I’m seeing 37820-PLR-L58, L57,L55. Do you know if there is any difference, or if the L58 etc would work?
@@codydavis7030 any updates?
Mine just wont got past 4k replaced vtec solenoid
Why did you take off the ignition?
@CivicNation734 because it's Programmed to the ECU. So it saved me from having to programming to the replacement ECU.
I just replaced mine and now code P0730 incorrect gear ratio popped up and the car does not move even if its in Drive
Check out trans fluid and solenoids. If both check out fine your trans might be on its way out.
I can't get them bolts out that hold the immobilizer can you show me how
If you're referring to the ones on the Steering Column you must make a slit into them. Then you can use a flathead and an impact driver/hammer. Honda from Factory made them smooth because they weren't meant to come out, so you must make a slit to unscrew them.
Where did you buy your new ECM?
I purchased my replacement off of Ebay
Gracias por poner traducción al español me gusto como lo explicaste
Tengo un problema en mi civic
El velocimetro se apaga al abrir el switch o encender el carro que problema podría ser?
Si el velocímetro es el único problema Verifique que la caja de fusibles dentro del automóvil no tenga un fusible quemado. Si no hay un fusible quemado o una mala conexión, es posible que el velocímetro esté defectuoso y deba reemplazarse. Puedes comprarlos usados y no son tan difíciles de reemplazar.
@@Duggie.Douglas voy a checarlo gracias y llevo con mi honda desde el 2010 y apenas fallo eso antes de q pasara esto se apagaba y se prendía habían veces q duraba prendido sin apagarse y de pronto se escuchaba cuando lo apagaba y lo mantenía en switch para mantener el estereo prendido se escuchaba como si hubiese un raton en el tablero pero lógico no se escuchaba trtrtrtrrrrr me imagino ya era d q fallaría se escuchaba así durante medio año aproximadamente pero si quizá sea reemplazar el velocimetro y esto paso apenas q llego a los 150,000 kms y eh visto varios tutoriales en RUclips q masomenos a ese kilometraje comienzan a fallar
Ya lo anduve buscando y esta usado en 2000 pesos mexicanos yo creo si lo tendré q cambiar eh visto q dicen q luego también es cambiar el sensor de velocidad pero para q le juego ya me dijeron 2 especialistas q mejor lo cambie q es eso
Te agradezco mucho por tu ayuda y atención muchas gracias ya t estoy siguiendo excelente contenido felicidades 👏
Because from what I’ve been told is that you need to reset something but I want to know what is it that I need to reset.
So what they're telling you to do is basic wipe the ECU and see if it fixes the error. Personally I didnt do that because its much easier to find a Replacement and just Have the ECM and Iginion swapped with a used one
@@Duggie.Douglas did you keep the same key?
@@agustinroque6247 the ignition key that come with the replacement solenoid. If you use your same ignition key and solenoid that comes with your car then you'll have to get it programmed
Help? 05 civic ex No check engine light, no acceleration power and can't go over 4000 rpm while on park. Vtec kicks in every time rpm hits 4000. Bad ECU?
A few Questions. Does it does the same thing my car does in the video? Also try pluging in a OBD2 scanner and if its unable to read the ECU then it is a Bad ECU
@@Duggie.Douglas Thanks for the response, no the car does not have the same issues like your. Basically the car starts normal, engine runs good, idle stable, and scanner works. Only issues are as stated above.
My does the exact same.did you figure it out?
@@DJDM87 no I haven't no clue lol. The only thing I haven't done is swap out the ecu.
Ok I bought a ecu last week. Gonna try it this weekend and see what happens
Me gusto tu viendo amigo , pero tengo una preguntas mi carro 2001 es manual y el motor no es vtec y le quiero cambiar pero es más fácil conseguir un motor vtec ,puedo hacer un swap cambiando el harnes de cables y la ECU y el switch se va poder programar ?? Gracias
Estoy usando el Traductor de Google. Si desea cambiar el motor, deberá cambiar la computadora (ECU) por una VTEC. Si sacas el transpondedor/interruptor de encendido y la llave del mismo auto, todo será plug-and-play.
I really appreciate if you used a translator and answer my question , because this week I’ll work in my car but if I can get the same engine harness and ECU ignition and key is plug and play You’ll save some money
So you don’t have to get it programmed?
If you purchase the corresponding ignition switch and key yes. It'll already be programmed together
Doing this for my 05 EX vtec..
Do you have to swap the ignition to get the car running?
And do the first line of numbers have to match or the second or both numbers?
The Ignition switch and the ECU must Match for it to work. Or the Ignition switch must be programmed to the ECM. If not it won't work
@@Duggie.Douglas so new computer Hass to match my old one the numbers the end or the start or all of the numbers and have to and get ignition and cylinder to for it too work
Ok, so why did you replace the shit on the column, whats that got to do with the ecm?
That ignition Switch is Programmed to the ECM. If you mismatch them they won't start the vehicle until you have them reprogrammed to one another. Which you will need either a locksmith or a Dealership to do
Beware. My ignition is riveted in. If you don’t have the tools to get it out don’t even both lol
All of them are. You are to create Slits and use a screwdriver or impact driver and they come undone. They should be tamper proof bolts not rivets
Why the hell is there still wires not connected what did you do you don’t explain it to well as I am trying to do it to my car lmao
Why doesn’t anyone show how to take the actual ecu out on RUclips? 😂
It’s just secured by one 10mm bolt?
Secured by like 1-2 10mm bolts but it alittle battle sqeezing out the space. So taking it out with a camera in hand isn't feasible
please he can stay like that the car works he does not have any problem ???
For the purpose of demonstration I left it to show everything working. After filming I bolted everything back to their right spots
Incomplete video