Great explanation of sealing and Im with you the sealer you use , I do to excellent stuff . My drive been down 15 years and only used the cheaper 200 x 100 marshalls ,Brindle inset charcoal borders . Every 3 years or so I soft wash it ,not power wash , I use a biocide ,then rinse it let it fully dry resend a seal comes up like new and not a weed insight . I always use matt sealer my preference on new drives I do and cleaning up old ones
Hi Phil- What an excellent presentation - an absolute pleasure to watch - relevant information - great camera angles - excellent audio considering wind (consider lavalier wind muff) Well done 👏
Hi Phil spoke to you recently on one of your other videos , asked you if you New how to remove sand off a drive that has just been sealed, the answer was I pressure washed it again using a hot wash pressure washer it removed all the sand and sealer , I’ve just re sanded it properly and sealed it again , looks great 👍
OK thats weird what sealer was it because typically a sealer won't come off with hot water if it's done properly. Was it thomsons? If it was then that's probably the reason why it came off lol.
i love your vids mate iam a pressure washer in kingston upon thames so informative iam going into sealing and your vids are helping me a lot thanks phil
@@michaelmckenna5296 do you want to email me your details as I get quite a lot of people asking me to do jobs over that way, Epsom, molesey, Hampton court etc. I'll add you to my pass on contacts. Drop them in an email to me at dirtydriveaway@gmail.com
Hi Phil, great video, thank you. We are going to give it a go here in Scotland - we have two terraces and a driveway in monobloc that came with the house… my question is what about weed killer? In another vid you suggested “misting” with weed killer after sanding - should we do that and then do the sealing once it is dry?
@jeanlaurensykes8232 hi, the problem with sealing is the dry time. Resiblock needs about 7 days after cleaning to dry out fully. I would normally sand and seal same day as that will ensure the sand is dry. You shouldn't need to weedkiller before sealing with resiblock providing you did a good enough job removing them when cleaning. If you did want to apply weedkiller then do it the following day after cleaning and allow to dry before sealing. The sealer will prevent moisture going through so will technically starve any weeds that happen to still be in the sub base anyway. Phill
Great, informative video Phil. As a professional I'd be interested in your thoughts on resanding a cleaned block paved driveway, as I always think mine looks great with fresh sand every couple of years. I presume this can't be done once its been sealed. Must admit mine looks a bit like the 'atrocious' job until I've thoroughly brushed it over a few times leaving looking (in my opinion ) great. Thanks again.
If you seal fresh sand it darkens slightly but it should stay clean as the muck can't get in. I've seen driveways sealed 15years ago and they still have hard sand. I always like to ensure any residue sand is blown away when I'm done. I just use a cheap garden blower to dust off the surface residue. Also making sure the sand joints aren't too high is good to ensure you don't get sand loss from rain/wind. This is even more important when sealing as any surface sand will get bound to the blocks. High joints means the roller can pick the sand out and makes it look a dogs dinner.
Thanks for the video together with all the explanation. Looks amazing. I ve been thinking about sealing my paving for a week now. Been doing some research, and what I've found is gloss looks amazing but after a while, you start to get patches when the sealer starts to weather. Have you come across this?. Thnx again for this amazing video
It's more the fact that the gloss sealer will wear quicker in areas of traffic. So you will see vehicle wear in areas where cars are parked etc. The resiblock sealer is the best sealer but its expensive. Downside is you can't spray it, you have to roller it. You need to make sure your sanding jib is perfect or the roller will pick up the sand and leave it scattered and stuck to the blocks. Once it's cured it won't come off that easily.
The photo you showed of the drive covered in sand reminded me of my own. A year ago my gardener said they could clean and finish the drive. They said that there was weedkiller in the sand to help keep weeds at bay. No sealer was used, just a great big mess which seemed to last forever. Your video is really helpful as I'm doing my drive myself. This product you're using looks marvellous. I'm wondering, do you need to push the roller slightly to allow the sealer to squeeze out.
Hi, yes you need to load the roller fairly well and then push slightly as you go. Just make sure if your rollering that your sand joints are well swept, otherwise you'll pull sand out with the roller. Your best off using a 12" double arm medium pile roller and suitable size paint scuttle. This way you can dunk the whole roller in the sealer. You will need 2 rollers as the 1st one will probably dry out before you get the second coat on. Cut the edges in with a cheap 4" brush. The roller and brush are chucked when finished as they aren't worth cleaning. The only way you can dissolve the sealer is with a solvent such as xylene or thinners. Spraying the sealer is a better option as its cleaner and gives deeper joint penetration but you can't spray resiblock. Phill
It's hard to use because if it gets damp its impossible to rectify. Polyurethane sealers are harder wearing but there is no room for error when it comes to weather and application. Matt will give it a subtle damp look whereas the gloss is a bit of a deeper wet look. Personally I find matt gives the best overall finish as the gloss can look a bit patchy if not applied quite right.
It Is costly, even too expensive now. Longevity depends on how well it is applied and how much sealer penetration the sand gets. If you apply as per instruction, maybe 3-5 years. Ultimately it has so many factors that it's hard to say. Larger gapped blocks such as tegulas tend to suffer quicker from cracking
i dont want the wet look, what are the options please? is it possible just to seal the area on the slight slope where the sand is moving from or just use the sealant on the joints only? thank you
All acrylic sealers will give a wet look I'm afraid. Only water based ones are invisible but they don't last like acrylic or polyurethane. There no way you'll be able to apply an acrylic sealer to just the joints as it will absorb into the blocks giving a damp appearance around the edges. If you wantnit sealed properly then the damp look is the only real way to do it properly as water based sealers just don't last.
No, you should leave it for several weeks. The problem with new blocks is you can easily get efflorescence blooms (salts). These show as white powdery residues on the blocks. It's best to leave the driveway for several weeks to ensure these salts are allowed to surface and be removed prior to sealing. If you seal straight away you can trap these under the blocks which may end up being visible later or you can end up the adhesion issues. Phill
Hi Phil, Impressive job. Looks amazing. I ve been told re-sealing paving could be very costly and mistakes could be even more costly. Been suggested best to just re-sand and leave it. When they start to discolour ( eg UV) then perhaps consider sealing them. . What would be your professional opinion please?
Technically, if it's really fine then yes. Personally I would use something cheaper such as smartseal as it will do the same thing. It will only bind small amounts though, it's not designed for flooding over large areas of sand or wide joints. If you want to bind up larger areas, using something like a water-based sealer may have better results. Or even a water down PVA mix.
This driveway used 10x 5L tins of this Resiblock product. The coverage rate on resiblock is normally 3sqM a litre on 1st coat and 6sqM L on the 2nd coat. Whatever your area is in sqM half it and that's how many litres you'll need. In the case of this driveway it was 100sqM and needed 50L. Just remember Resiblock can't be sprayed on, it has to be rollered.
Hmm, technically you can but the problem with sealers is they start setting pretty quick. Before you know where you are the triggers etc tend to start getting sticky. When spraying sealers it can be hard to get even coverage and 9 cases out of 10 you have to go over it with a roller. If you were using water based sealer the you can but again it can be a bit messy. With resiblock or acrylic sealers you need to rinse it all out with thinners or xylene solvent.
Nice job mate I done newly patio last week in the days of the nice sunshine hadn’t rained for a week or so,so nice and dry builders merchant recommended Thompson’s water seal is that as good as your stuff you used thanks
Dirty Drive-Away thanks mate must admit it was cheaper than your one I’d never heard of it until I saw your video a hour a go can I go over the top with your make,? Thanks
@@stephenclark8596 I wouldn't to be fair. That water seal stuff is designed for brick walls etc to help the water bead off. The stuff I use is an acrylic sealer and will set the sand hard and seal the blocks. The water seal stuff will just add a water repellency to the blocks. It won't bind the sand and it won't stop weeds etc. If you want to seal the driveway properly I would not apply the water seal as it will probably stop any real sealer from binding to the blocks. If you want a decent fairly priced acrylic sealer look at kingfishers K-seal it's about £24 a tin which is half resiblocks price and works really well. Don't think it will last quite as long as resiblock but it's a lot cheaper. Phill
Dirty Drive-Away thanks Phil the patio laid was not the blocks it’s the slabs,not marshals but similar I think their called rives or similar come in different sizes a nice job,but the paver never recommended any product he said to seal it,but I’ll take your advice Phil and I’ll get the kingfisher thanks 👍👍
@@stephenclark8596 the kingfisher is an all in one which means you can use it on most surfaces. The resiblock does dedicated sealers for block paving and sandstone. If it's concrete replica slabs then you can use a water based sealer like resiblock trade, it just depends on what finish your after. Most water based sealers dry clear whereas acrylic sealers tend to darken the stone.
If I've has sanded a drive way then applied this stuff... In a few years time will it still be possible to power wash the drive way again or does this sealant last forever?
The block protection will vary depending on level of traffic. Resiblock give it a 4-5yr lifespan but it can be over coated after a couple years. If applied correctly it should keep the sand hard for many years. Ive seen driveways of 10+ years that were sealed and the sand is still solid. This again will depend on the type of block, popular 200×100 blocks tend to last the longest. If you have wider gaps or tumbled edges with more radius (known as tegula) corners then it tends to break away quicker.
It is actually pretty good, gloss or matt makes no odds. To be fair the gloss isn't stupidly shiny and the matt still gives a damp look. The resistance to oil ingress obviously does depend how long you leave it on the floor. Resiblock recommend wiping it up with a cloth ASAP. They won't guarantee it wont soak in if left for prolonged periods.
Hello Phill, Another good video. From what I have read on the net and grasped from resiblock themselves is that when using a polyurethane resiblock product it can be very unforgiving. Before you re sand make sure the tops of the blocks are dry and you do quite a few test patches all over with dried kiln sand in the joints letting it sit for for say 20-30 mins before digging it out. It is crucial to determine if the sand bed beneath is dry. If it showered or rained unexpectedly this would be a big problem!!! Any moisture that gets trapped under the sealer will cause a bloom (white milky patches). Once the PU sealer has cured you can not simply re emulsify it with thinners to chase out the moisture. You would need to apply a chemical stripper and jet wash the lot off-which would be a nightmare! Or it needs to be dry and manically abraded off. I have no doubt resiblock is a fantastic product but does need skill, knowledge and caution to use it. Thank you for taking the time to make the video, keep up the good work Phill.
matthew calder yes it does need the right conditions to use properly. Like most things it needs to be dry. So long as the blocks themselves have had plenty of time to dry it will be ok. Yes the sand needs to be dry, by sweeping fresh sand into the joints any moisture withing the joint will be wicked up to the surface and you will see it quite clearly. So long as the sand and surface are perfectly dry all will be well. Resiblock do have guidelines for its use, but they have to have them to ensure the product goes on properly with no comeback. They offer no oil stain guarantee etc so they have to ensure the product has been applied in perfect conditions. Any rain or moisture will ruin the finish and hence case milky patches.
Dirty Drive-Away Thanks for your reply Phill.. Anybody that has not done there homework on how to use a polyurethane sealer will open up a big can of worms if any moisture gets under the sealer from either damp sand or damp blocks. In the event it needs to all be stripped off Resiblock told me they advise contractors to buy " " paromorse" (licence needed to use it) or Enviromorse pro from Brewers. When I enquired about the products I was suprised to hear they sell buckets of the stuff as there are so many people out there who get it wrong. Cheers Matt
matthew calder will remember that product if needed in the future. I'm one of resiblocks contractors and they have never mentioned paromorse. I know they sell there own so called tool cleaner but I think that only works before it's cured.
Dirty Drive-Away resiblock dont want to promote things that could go wrong which is understandable from a marketing point of veiw as it could harm sales. Ive read you can use nitric acid which is nasty stuff , or a product called easy strip 2000. Would be nice if somebody who has had to go down this road could tell us there experience. Cheers M
Great vid Phil, what is the maximum time you would leave between re-sanding, and re-sealing, due to all the rain we’re having, I’m having trouble booking in jobs as the area needs to be dry?. Thanks 😀
You ideally need to re sand on the same day as sealing. This way you know the sand is dry. There should be 5-7days between cleaning and sealing to allow the water from cleaning to fully drain. I'm in the same boat got 2 sealing jobs and 2 decks to finish.
Hi, I would say 15L to be safe. You need to leave around 4 hours between coats. Don't expect the wet look finish to last too long, usually 12-18months cosmetic appearance. You have to roller it, you can't spray it, so expect some sand pickup on the roller. Just make sure your sanding is perfect. Otherwise, it can make a mess real fast.
@Mohit L matt is still wet look. All acrylic sealers will give a damp look finish. The gloss is just more shiny. It will look like it has a subtle damp appearance when sealed.
Hi Phil This is a good view as it goes through the stages of sealing, thanks. One question, how long did it take to do first and then the second coat? I am about to do my front using Resiblock - it's apron 65ms. PB
Paresh Bhatt took me about 3hrs on first coat, hour and bit on second. Make sure drive is fully dry, all sand is dry otherwise it will go milky and you will be in a world of difficulty. Phill
Any proper service will bind the sand to stop that. It doesn't have to be resiblock. A 2 coat acrylic sealer will offer the best sand binding. Resiblock, smartseal, kingfisher.
Also remember that any sealer will take away the natural drainage of the driveway. If it slopes towards the house make sure you have adequate drainage before considering sealing.
@@ontheroad2279 thats OK then. You cant seal during damp seasons, but if its new make sure you don't get efflorescence blooms (white powdery patches) this will either get trapped under the sealer or cause the sealer to not bond properly.
Another nice job Phil Do you fine the price of the sealer limits you offering the sealing service or do you use a standard sealer more agreeable to your customers budget have u used the battery sprayer to apply
London pressure wash EXTERNAL PROPERTY MAINTENANCE problem is I know you can have issues with cheaper sealers. I would rather turn a sealing job down than use cheap products. No you don't spray this stuff as it will clog up the sprayer, it starts going hard in about an hour and the only way to clean is running thinners through it, even then it's hard to tell if you've got it all out until next time you come to use it and it don't work lol. Using this sealer is well expensive but it's good stuff. Cost around £600 in just the sealer.
Thanks for sharing, I think I would have gone for a Matt finish I think a Gloss finish would show high traffic areas when it wears back? I understand about the sanding now too!
He was adamant he wanted gloss, its the only gloss one I've ever done still to this day lol. It definitely dries shinier in different places. Still what the customer wants they get.
Just read that resiblock pu is not a cross linking sealer so in the event of milky patches, touching up due to tyre wear or recoating when the sealer looks patchy or at the end of its life you cant just put another coat/ s on or re mulsify sealer you have to strip it all off. If your thinking why is poss to put to coats of sealer on well thats seems to be different when the first coat on you wait 3 hrs before second coat, aftet that you only a window of up to 24hrs to apply 2nd coat, any longer and problems start like delamination. Just saying before somebody makes a very expensive mistake. Matt
matthew calder hi Matt, I spoke to resiblock today and they told me outright that you can apply a PU sealer over the top of another PU or water based sealer. You can't put a water based sealer over the PU. I also questioned them on removal and they said it will naturally wear off after around 5 years due to traffic or environment. They said you can use a stripping agent before the 5 years but they said it's horrible stuff. They said so long as you scuff the surface, they recommended scrubbing down some sharp sand to key it up then re applying a PU sealer won't be a problem. They said paramose is evil stuff and yes it will remove it but it's pricey. They don't recommend re applying before a 5 year period. All the PU really does it protect against oil stains. All sealers should bind the sand. Phill
Well done for phoning them as this info is not on there website??Cant see PU just wearing off, patchy may be but if they say sharp sand will save the day over using a stripper that sounds good. Do you think the scuffed sealer would look ok with another fresh coat on top?Phill I don't expect you to have the answer to this question but lets put this out there as this has been the reason it put me off using it..Imagine your at a new b/paving sealing job and you have checked the weather, checked the sand bed is dry and the tops of the block are dry. Every thing is as dry Ghandi's flip flop! You are now halfway through sealing the drive either halfway through the 1st coat or half way the second coat and a percentage of sealer is still wet. Out of no where it starts to shower/ rain! good old uk weather at its finest! You return the next day hoping you can get the rest of the PU sealer down before the end of the 24 hr window. If you don't see a bloom (milky white patch ) that day you might think you have nothing to worry about. A few days later the customer phones to say the drive doesn't look right and sure enough moisture (milky white patch is trapped under the sealer. What is your next move? How are you going to rectify this problem? MI
matthew calder hmm yeah that is a problem, when I have questioned resi before about the weather and the window they say it's a guide, but ideally for best results both coats need to be down within 48hrs. They did say that applying the 2nd coat a few days later won't hurt. I also asked about the rain, the answer was so long as the first coat has gone down and has had at least 3-4hrs on a good day then it should be fine. They also said it's not quite so detremental on the 2nd coat as the 1st application has already sealed the block. They said a small amount of dampness should be ok so long as it's not pissed down. They tell me more as I'm on there approved contractor list, they have to be more careful with the general public as they don't want to give mixed instructions. I've done a few drives with Resiblock and never had any issues or comebavks. It think like most things it's forward planning and making sure it's well dry. Unfortunately you can't predict the weather, looking up is always going to be better than the weather apps.
Dirty Drive-Away well looks as though the goal posts are widening! Lol. Thanks for letting us in on the info from resi. So Any ideas if it was to rain down on the wet sealer say 2nd coat whats best thing to do? Cheers phill, M
matthew calder hard to say to be honest. If there was even a remote possibility of rain I wouldn't put it down. Resi did say that in hotter temps it dries off a lot quicker, 2-3 hrs instead of 4-6.
Hi Phil. Very good vid. Quick question. You mentioned that a good quality sealant sorts out the weeds, ants, etc. Is this a permanent fix, or do you still recommend spaying a good quality weed killer (e.g Rostate 360), 6/8 weeks after the sealant has been applied? Many thanks.
Hi Paul, a good sealer will bind the sand setting it hard. This in turn help prevent weeds from seeding in the sand or growing through it. Since the jointing sand will be hard after the sealer has been applied a weedkiller won't actually do anything since it can't penetrate the now binded sand. Using an acrylic/polyurethane sealer makes the joints impermeable, meaning it will also take away the natural drainage that block paving has. This is why I always assess areas prior to quoting for sealing as some (especially patios) tend to lack good drainage. When it rains heavily you will end up with pooling water. The only time you should need a weedkiller after sealing is if in time the sand cracks and weeds can grow. I have seen sealed driveways that have remained pretty much weed free for many many years. Phill
Dirty Drive-Away Thanks for the reply. Drainage could potentially be an issue. So, after re-sanding, a coverage of weed killer every 6/8 weeks should be ok?
@@paulyoung2814 hey Paul, yeah if your not going to seal it then a regular weedkilling regime is best. You can buy permeable sealers which a designed for SUDS paving. It seals the blocks but still allows water through. Can be quite pricey though, www.resiblock.com/product/resiblock-envirofix/
Hmm tough one because if it gets wet it just clumps up and does nothing. Really don't know what to suggest as I only sand when it's dry, even if it starts to rain it can go tits up really quickly.
@@baggiemad yeah it can cause pooling issues if there is nowhere for the water to run too. There are permeable sealers available to comply with SUDS regulations. These sealers bind the sand but are also permeable to allow water to soak through. They are pretty expensive though and resiblocks version is called envirofix www.resiblock.com/product/resiblock-envirofix/ If drainage is an issue using something like this may be your only option if your looking for a sealer. Phill
@@DirtyDriveAway exactly my thinking mate, so I take it it’s a resiblock sealer or no sealer ? What about smart seal ? My customs would never pay for resi 🤣
@@Unknown-us4nx I only use resi if the customer insists otherwise its smartseal or K-seal. Resi is a nightmare if it gets damp, so I avoid it as much as possible.
Tom Wilson hi Tom, I charge £1.25 a sqM per coat. 2nd coat goes down in no time. Plus materials etc, it's quite straight forward to do if using good products.
would u think a sealer is needed for 450mm pavers, which will have polymeric sand in the joints? or not necessary? sorry btw, i watch all your vids, and seem to ask you a question each time :) best on here tho.
Chris C hey Chris, it really depends upon why you want it sealed, silly question I know. Yes you could use a sealer as well as poly sand but the main reason for using something like Resiblock superior is because it binds the sand. Using poly sand and say Resiblock may be a bit counter productive as the sealer won't do the sand binding part. In turn you will use less sealer however I could see potential pooling issues in the joints as a lot of poly sands are not water absorbing so the sealer won't penetrate through the poly sand. If your considering sealing I would probably not use a poly sand. The poly sand can leave a powdery residue on the surface which would need to be fully removed before sealing otherwise you'll trap it in. As a contractor poly sand is a cheaper option as it's only slightly more time consuming than regular kiln dried sand whereas sealing take a couple visits and take a lot longer to apply. If I had to chooses between sealing and poly sand I would choose sealing as it offers more than 1 benefit...so long as the conditions are right
damn, ok. and i just bought 2 expensive bags of it too. well at least will save me buying the sealer, and maybe in a year or 2, replace with kiln sand and apply a sealer. i will make sure i am careful with the poly before i wet it so as not to have any on the actual paver. will be applying the sodium hypo before all this tho to remove the lichen, received a 25litre today, wont need it all tho. your videos are a really helpful guide, so thanks, and keep doing what you do mate :)
Chris C what make is this sand your using? I've only ever used kingfisher and Resiblock and they are £35 for 15kg kingfisher or £55+del for 20kg Resiblock.
Amazing videos Phil, There's one question that bothers me, what about already sealed surface, should I remove old sealer with other chemicals, or pressure washing gently will do the job, just reapply on top. Thanks
Nerijus Puzas it really depends what sealer was used. If you ask for resiblocks advice they would probably say all old sealer should be removed. I am not entirely sure how this is done as most polyurethane sealers are pretty jet wash proof. Most sealers last a few years and resiblock give there's around 5 years. I know a good solvent may soften it but to be honest I've never had a job whereby I'm sealing a previously sealed driveway. Phill
Hi, very informative vid once again. I had a recent customer ask me to brush salt into the joints first then sand. She said she heard it would help kill any weed roots that were still there. What are your thoughts on this?
Edge Mandem I have heard salt can help with weeds although personally I wouldn't want to introduce it onto block paving as it can potentially lead to white staining as the blocks will absorb it when wet. This is even more so important of sealing is involved because it will seal the stain in. In most cases especially on new bricks you are trying to avoid/remove natural salts to stop efflorescence blooms. Has the customer not heard of a good weedkilling regime lol.
No you need around 5days of dry time before sealing, sometimes more depending on the drive. The whole idea of sealing is to bind the sand so you need to sand then seal, preferably at the same time. So you clean, wait 5-7days to fully drain/dry, the sand & seal. If its wet when you try and seal it will leave you with a big mess.
This was too much for me so I went with something cheaper. Can this sealer be applied using a sprayer? Also does this put some customers off with the price of the sealant?
Ding Bat Driving. Hmm sprayers, I wouldnt recommend it. Purely because it's high solvent sealer and will probably melt the seals, also it starts going hard quite quick so I think it may start clogging pretty quickly. You could also go through quite a lot of sealer fairly quickly, I always find a roller the best and most controlled way of applying. If it was a water based sealer I'm pretty sure it would be fine. Yes this isn't a cheap product but it works exactly as described if applied correctly. Resiblock offer a no oil stain guarantee on this sealer so you should be able to wipe off any oil spills. The downside is that this type of sealer is exceptionally hard to remove, they say it degrades itself over time (3-4 years) but anything before that period then it will either need chemically stripping or keying up really well before re applying.
I thought not, mine is solvent free. I've heard people ask about removing, but why would you? You want it as hard wearing as possible, especially when you've got cars and people on it all day. Does look good.
Ding Bat Driving it's not so much removing it, it's just the people seem to think they need to keep doing it every year or so, unless you key it up it's like painting over gloss it just won't stick without a good prep.
Ah ok I see. I did the front drive with a lesser product and over 2 years all the protection has gone, and that was with mainly the elements taking it off. As I don't mind cleaning and redoing I'm fine, but I might give yours a go. Do you just clean and protect or do you lay as well?
Ding Bat Driving I just clean, I do do sealing but it's something I like to assess per customer as the price of resi is quite high and I don't like using cheap products. To be fair doing it every couple years isn't really a hardship just the labour cost can add up. Resiblock is a 2 coat application whereas some are only 1.
That looks like a £1000 job with the cleaning and sealing. In my area, If I quoted £150 for the clean alone they would shudder and throw up. LOL. I think its the thought of them having to move the Bently.
@@MegaMaxymoo oh yeah lol, the neighbour reversed into the wall apparently and knocked it down. The bits were all chucked on the other side of the main wall on the grass behind the camera. He was waiting for a builder to re build lol.
This sealer will last 4-5 years, it shouldn't come out with a jet wash. You can't reseal every year without keying the surface as the new sealer won't bond. These sealers start to naturally wear and break down after about 3-4 years but it's highly dependent on the amount of traffic the area receives. I have seen 15 year old sealed driveways and the sand is still rock solid.
@@paulelscey2465 yes, it's the only way to really keep weeds at bay. Poly sands etc don't work for long. Sealers will bind the sand solid for years, providing it's applied properly.
Omg did you help that person with the atrocious sanding job? Thats rediculous. I know this video is years old but I need to know.... what happened there? 😳
No that sanding job was just one that I had seen being cleaned. A few days later I passed the same driveway and that's how it had been left. Even a week later the sand was still like that. Some people have no pride in their work and think that's acceptable 🙄.
Yeah to be honest I thought it was going to be proper bling but it isn't. To be fair it was quite nice, it had a slight shine, more than the Matt version which even though is classed as Matt can have a satin damp look. Problem is a lot of people think gloss and it's going to be proper shiney but it's quite subtle. Even still it's not everyone's cup of tea hence why I don't do many gloss ones as people get put off by the "gloss" bit. Phill
Cheers for the reply I've tried a couple of gloss ones that say gloss or high shine but just darken (glossy)a bit then look normal when fully dry cost a fortune to.
@@clawbackx nearly all acrylic sealers will darken the block (damp look) bit with a Matt finish. Water based sealers go down with a damp look but tend to dry off natural with no serious change in colour. The gloss sealer does give a higher shine than the Matt but not super shiney. The problem is if they were super glossy most people wouldn't buy them as there is that myth that if it's shiney it's going to be slippery when wet.
No, you just roller it on and it soaks into the blocks and joints. You only need to brush it off if your dealing with riven natural stone where it may pool in the recesses.
Great explanation of sealing and Im with you the sealer you use , I do to excellent stuff .
My drive been down 15 years and only used the cheaper 200 x 100 marshalls ,Brindle inset charcoal borders .
Every 3 years or so I soft wash it ,not power wash , I use a biocide ,then rinse it let it fully dry resend a seal comes up like new and not a weed insight .
I always use matt sealer my preference on new drives I do and cleaning up old ones
Hi Phil- What an excellent presentation - an absolute pleasure to watch - relevant information - great camera angles - excellent audio considering wind (consider lavalier wind muff) Well done 👏
OMG! before and after photos are amazing. Great job, well impressed.
Cheers mate
Hi Phil spoke to you recently on one of your other videos , asked you if you New how to remove sand off a drive that has just been sealed, the answer was I pressure washed it again using a hot wash pressure washer it removed all the sand and sealer , I’ve just re sanded it properly and sealed it again , looks great 👍
OK thats weird what sealer was it because typically a sealer won't come off with hot water if it's done properly. Was it thomsons? If it was then that's probably the reason why it came off lol.
Great video and very well explained top job 👍
Thanks for all the information Phil. will do mine in few days
THANK YOU GREAT JOB EXCELLENT VIDEO.
excellent work phil. looks very good .
Thanks for this ver informative presentation. How can I dispose of the empty cans at the end of the job?
Take them to your local recycling/refuse centre. They usually have a section for paint cans.
I WAS going to do this job myself...😊
Hi I am your subscriber from India
WRooM Auto hi welcome to my channel
i love your vids mate iam a pressure washer in kingston upon thames so informative iam going into sealing and your vids are helping me a lot thanks phil
@@michaelmckenna5296 do you want to email me your details as I get quite a lot of people asking me to do jobs over that way, Epsom, molesey, Hampton court etc. I'll add you to my pass on contacts.
Drop them in an email to me at dirtydriveaway@gmail.com
Hi Phil, great video, thank you. We are going to give it a go here in Scotland - we have two terraces and a driveway in monobloc that came with the house… my question is what about weed killer? In another vid you suggested “misting” with weed killer after sanding - should we do that and then do the sealing once it is dry?
@jeanlaurensykes8232 hi, the problem with sealing is the dry time. Resiblock needs about 7 days after cleaning to dry out fully. I would normally sand and seal same day as that will ensure the sand is dry. You shouldn't need to weedkiller before sealing with resiblock providing you did a good enough job removing them when cleaning. If you did want to apply weedkiller then do it the following day after cleaning and allow to dry before sealing. The sealer will prevent moisture going through so will technically starve any weeds that happen to still be in the sub base anyway. Phill
Great, informative video Phil. As a professional I'd be interested in your thoughts on resanding a cleaned block paved driveway, as I always think mine looks great with fresh sand every couple of years. I presume this can't be done once its been sealed. Must admit mine looks a bit like the 'atrocious' job until I've thoroughly brushed it over a few times leaving looking (in my opinion ) great. Thanks again.
If you seal fresh sand it darkens slightly but it should stay clean as the muck can't get in. I've seen driveways sealed 15years ago and they still have hard sand. I always like to ensure any residue sand is blown away when I'm done. I just use a cheap garden blower to dust off the surface residue. Also making sure the sand joints aren't too high is good to ensure you don't get sand loss from rain/wind. This is even more important when sealing as any surface sand will get bound to the blocks. High joints means the roller can pick the sand out and makes it look a dogs dinner.
Great to see a. New video
Great video Phil
I know what you mean about the poorly sanded drives, makes the job look cheap!
Thanks for the video together with all the explanation. Looks amazing.
I ve been thinking about sealing my paving for a week now. Been doing some research, and what I've found is gloss looks amazing but after a while, you start to get patches when the sealer starts to weather. Have you come across this?.
Thnx again for this amazing video
It's more the fact that the gloss sealer will wear quicker in areas of traffic. So you will see vehicle wear in areas where cars are parked etc. The resiblock sealer is the best sealer but its expensive. Downside is you can't spray it, you have to roller it. You need to make sure your sanding jib is perfect or the roller will pick up the sand and leave it scattered and stuck to the blocks. Once it's cured it won't come off that easily.
The photo you showed of the drive covered in sand reminded me of my own. A year ago my gardener said they could clean and finish the drive. They said that there was weedkiller in the sand to help keep weeds at bay. No sealer was used, just a great big mess which seemed to last forever.
Your video is really helpful as I'm doing my drive myself. This product you're using looks marvellous. I'm wondering, do you need to push the roller slightly to allow the sealer to squeeze out.
Hi, yes you need to load the roller fairly well and then push slightly as you go. Just make sure if your rollering that your sand joints are well swept, otherwise you'll pull sand out with the roller. Your best off using a 12" double arm medium pile roller and suitable size paint scuttle. This way you can dunk the whole roller in the sealer. You will need 2 rollers as the 1st one will probably dry out before you get the second coat on. Cut the edges in with a cheap 4" brush. The roller and brush are chucked when finished as they aren't worth cleaning. The only way you can dissolve the sealer is with a solvent such as xylene or thinners.
Spraying the sealer is a better option as its cleaner and gives deeper joint penetration but you can't spray resiblock. Phill
@@DirtyDriveAway I'm really grateful to you for taking the time to respond to my query. Your advice is invaluable and much appreciated.
@@milamou9352 your welcome. Hope you get it sorted. Any more questions just ask.
Am thinking of using this on a newly slabbed garden. Unsure Matt or gloss can you recommend . Thank you
It's hard to use because if it gets damp its impossible to rectify. Polyurethane sealers are harder wearing but there is no room for error when it comes to weather and application. Matt will give it a subtle damp look whereas the gloss is a bit of a deeper wet look. Personally I find matt gives the best overall finish as the gloss can look a bit patchy if not applied quite right.
Very useful video; this liquid seems very expensive, how long this will protect the surface from weed growth?
It Is costly, even too expensive now. Longevity depends on how well it is applied and how much sealer penetration the sand gets. If you apply as per instruction, maybe 3-5 years. Ultimately it has so many factors that it's hard to say. Larger gapped blocks such as tegulas tend to suffer quicker from cracking
Thanks for your prompt reply@@DirtyDriveAway
i dont want the wet look, what are the options please? is it possible just to seal the area on the slight slope where the sand is moving from or just use the sealant on the joints only? thank you
All acrylic sealers will give a wet look I'm afraid. Only water based ones are invisible but they don't last like acrylic or polyurethane. There no way you'll be able to apply an acrylic sealer to just the joints as it will absorb into the blocks giving a damp appearance around the edges. If you wantnit sealed properly then the damp look is the only real way to do it properly as water based sealers just don't last.
Can i seal new block paving as soon as it’s laid?
No, you should leave it for several weeks. The problem with new blocks is you can easily get efflorescence blooms (salts). These show as white powdery residues on the blocks. It's best to leave the driveway for several weeks to ensure these salts are allowed to surface and be removed prior to sealing. If you seal straight away you can trap these under the blocks which may end up being visible later or you can end up the adhesion issues. Phill
Hi Phil great video, are these blocks concrete or clay and how do you tell the difference?
These are concrete, clay pavers tend to look more like bricks and can have wider joints with the heavier chamfer around the edges.
Hi Phil,
Impressive job. Looks amazing.
I ve been told re-sealing paving could be very costly and mistakes could be even more costly. Been suggested best to just re-sand and leave it. When they start to discolour ( eg UV) then perhaps consider sealing them. . What would be your professional opinion please?
Nice job .
Hi. Can you put this on fine Aquarium sand to seal it as I’ve got a feature in my garden and the sand keep blowing away when there’s wind or rain
Technically, if it's really fine then yes. Personally I would use something cheaper such as smartseal as it will do the same thing. It will only bind small amounts though, it's not designed for flooding over large areas of sand or wide joints. If you want to bind up larger areas, using something like a water-based sealer may have better results. Or even a water down PVA mix.
@@DirtyDriveAway Thank you
I have done that and after a year or so back to square one.
@ssimba2785 yep, that's why it's no longer feasible to do it. The products are too damn expensive. Cheaper to have it cleaned properly every 2 years.
How many tins did you use in the end if you can remember?
This driveway used 10x 5L tins of this Resiblock product. The coverage rate on resiblock is normally 3sqM a litre on 1st coat and 6sqM L on the 2nd coat. Whatever your area is in sqM half it and that's how many litres you'll need. In the case of this driveway it was 100sqM and needed 50L. Just remember Resiblock can't be sprayed on, it has to be rollered.
Just a quick question, you no your battery operated bitten seal pump sprayer you have couldn’t you use your sealant in it to spray it in ???
Hmm, technically you can but the problem with sealers is they start setting pretty quick. Before you know where you are the triggers etc tend to start getting sticky. When spraying sealers it can be hard to get even coverage and 9 cases out of 10 you have to go over it with a roller. If you were using water based sealer the you can but again it can be a bit messy. With resiblock or acrylic sealers you need to rinse it all out with thinners or xylene solvent.
Nice job mate I done newly patio last week in the days of the nice sunshine hadn’t rained for a week or so,so nice and dry builders merchant recommended Thompson’s water seal is that as good as your stuff you used thanks
I wouldn't use Thompson's, it's cheap and cheerful. Water seal is NOT a sealer, it's a water repellent, it does nothing that a proper sealer will do.
Dirty Drive-Away thanks mate must admit it was cheaper than your one I’d never heard of it until I saw your video a hour a go can I go over the top with your make,? Thanks
@@stephenclark8596 I wouldn't to be fair. That water seal stuff is designed for brick walls etc to help the water bead off. The stuff I use is an acrylic sealer and will set the sand hard and seal the blocks. The water seal stuff will just add a water repellency to the blocks. It won't bind the sand and it won't stop weeds etc. If you want to seal the driveway properly I would not apply the water seal as it will probably stop any real sealer from binding to the blocks. If you want a decent fairly priced acrylic sealer look at kingfishers K-seal it's about £24 a tin which is half resiblocks price and works really well. Don't think it will last quite as long as resiblock but it's a lot cheaper. Phill
Dirty Drive-Away thanks Phil the patio laid was not the blocks it’s the slabs,not marshals but similar I think their called rives or similar come in different sizes a nice job,but the paver never recommended any product he said to seal it,but I’ll take your advice Phil and I’ll get the kingfisher thanks 👍👍
@@stephenclark8596 the kingfisher is an all in one which means you can use it on most surfaces. The resiblock does dedicated sealers for block paving and sandstone. If it's concrete replica slabs then you can use a water based sealer like resiblock trade, it just depends on what finish your after. Most water based sealers dry clear whereas acrylic sealers tend to darken the stone.
If I've has sanded a drive way then applied this stuff... In a few years time will it still be possible to power wash the drive way again or does this sealant last forever?
The block protection will vary depending on level of traffic. Resiblock give it a 4-5yr lifespan but it can be over coated after a couple years. If applied correctly it should keep the sand hard for many years. Ive seen driveways of 10+ years that were sealed and the sand is still solid. This again will depend on the type of block, popular 200×100 blocks tend to last the longest. If you have wider gaps or tumbled edges with more radius (known as tegula) corners then it tends to break away quicker.
Once done, matt or gloss, how effective is it at stopping oil ingress from a leaky engine or gearbox?
It is actually pretty good, gloss or matt makes no odds. To be fair the gloss isn't stupidly shiny and the matt still gives a damp look. The resistance to oil ingress obviously does depend how long you leave it on the floor. Resiblock recommend wiping it up with a cloth ASAP. They won't guarantee it wont soak in if left for prolonged periods.
Hello Phill, Another good video. From what I have read on the net and grasped from resiblock themselves is that when using a polyurethane resiblock product it can be very unforgiving. Before you re sand make sure the tops of the blocks are dry and you do quite a few test patches all over with dried kiln sand in the joints letting it sit for for say 20-30 mins before digging it out. It is crucial to determine if the sand bed beneath is dry. If it showered or rained unexpectedly this would be a big problem!!! Any moisture that gets trapped under the sealer will cause a bloom (white milky patches). Once the PU sealer has cured you can not simply re emulsify it with thinners to chase out the moisture. You would need to apply a chemical stripper and jet wash the lot off-which would be a nightmare! Or it needs to be dry and manically abraded off. I have no doubt resiblock is a fantastic product but does need skill, knowledge and caution to use it. Thank you for taking the time to make the video, keep up the good work Phill.
matthew calder yes it does need the right conditions to use properly. Like most things it needs to be dry. So long as the blocks themselves have had plenty of time to dry it will be ok. Yes the sand needs to be dry, by sweeping fresh sand into the joints any moisture withing the joint will be wicked up to the surface and you will see it quite clearly. So long as the sand and surface are perfectly dry all will be well. Resiblock do have guidelines for its use, but they have to have them to ensure the product goes on properly with no comeback. They offer no oil stain guarantee etc so they have to ensure the product has been applied in perfect conditions. Any rain or moisture will ruin the finish and hence case milky patches.
Dirty Drive-Away Thanks for your reply Phill.. Anybody that has not done there homework on how to use a polyurethane sealer will open up a big can of worms if any moisture gets under the sealer from either damp sand or damp blocks. In the event it needs to all be stripped off Resiblock told me they advise contractors to buy " " paromorse" (licence needed to use it) or Enviromorse pro from Brewers. When I enquired about the products I was suprised to hear they sell buckets of the stuff as there are so many people out there who get it wrong. Cheers Matt
matthew calder will remember that product if needed in the future. I'm one of resiblocks contractors and they have never mentioned paromorse. I know they sell there own so called tool cleaner but I think that only works before it's cured.
Dirty Drive-Away resiblock dont want to promote things that could go wrong which is understandable from a marketing point of veiw as it could harm sales. Ive read you can use nitric acid which is nasty stuff , or a product called easy strip 2000. Would be nice if somebody who has had to go down this road could tell us there experience. Cheers M
Great vid Phil, what is the maximum time you would leave between re-sanding, and re-sealing, due to all the rain we’re having, I’m having trouble booking in jobs as the area needs to be dry?. Thanks 😀
You ideally need to re sand on the same day as sealing. This way you know the sand is dry. There should be 5-7days between cleaning and sealing to allow the water from cleaning to fully drain. I'm in the same boat got 2 sealing jobs and 2 decks to finish.
@@DirtyDriveAway great thanks 😁
Hi bud how much resiblock would you need to 20-25 square metres? assume u need to do two coats? how long do you let first coat try for?
Hi, I would say 15L to be safe. You need to leave around 4 hours between coats. Don't expect the wet look finish to last too long, usually 12-18months cosmetic appearance. You have to roller it, you can't spray it, so expect some sand pickup on the roller. Just make sure your sanding is perfect. Otherwise, it can make a mess real fast.
@@DirtyDriveAway right...cheers pal. was going to go for the matt one :) i will wait till spring / summer when it is dry
@Mohit L matt is still wet look. All acrylic sealers will give a damp look finish. The gloss is just more shiny. It will look like it has a subtle damp appearance when sealed.
How would you charge for a drive this size clean re sand and sealed
Hi Phil
This is a good view as it goes through the stages of sealing, thanks.
One question, how long did it take to do first and then the second coat?
I am about to do my front using Resiblock - it's apron 65ms.
PB
Paresh Bhatt took me about 3hrs on first coat, hour and bit on second. Make sure drive is fully dry, all sand is dry otherwise it will go milky and you will be in a world of difficulty. Phill
Is the sealer slippery when wet?
No not at all. It still retains the texture of the blocks as it soaks in.
My driveway is on a slope and the jointing sand always fall out in the rain. Is resiblock on to use on a sloped brickweave drive? Many thanks.
Any proper service will bind the sand to stop that. It doesn't have to be resiblock. A 2 coat acrylic sealer will offer the best sand binding. Resiblock, smartseal, kingfisher.
Also remember that any sealer will take away the natural drainage of the driveway. If it slopes towards the house make sure you have adequate drainage before considering sealing.
@@DirtyDriveAway thanks for the info. I have drains that work well. Its a new drive with very good levels that keep water away from propety.
@@ontheroad2279 thats OK then. You cant seal during damp seasons, but if its new make sure you don't get efflorescence blooms (white powdery patches) this will either get trapped under the sealer or cause the sealer to not bond properly.
@@DirtyDriveAway yep il wait till summer. Cheers dude.
Another nice job Phil Do you fine the price of the sealer limits you offering the sealing service or do you use a standard sealer more agreeable to your customers budget have u used the battery sprayer to apply
London pressure wash EXTERNAL PROPERTY MAINTENANCE problem is I know you can have issues with cheaper sealers. I would rather turn a sealing job down than use cheap products. No you don't spray this stuff as it will clog up the sprayer, it starts going hard in about an hour and the only way to clean is running thinners through it, even then it's hard to tell if you've got it all out until next time you come to use it and it don't work lol. Using this sealer is well expensive but it's good stuff. Cost around £600 in just the sealer.
What tape are you using to stick to the paving
Just bog standard masking tape. It was only for demonstration purposes.
How many litres was that tin
5L per tin and it took a total of 50L or 10 tins to do this driveway.
How can I get this in the states?
Not too sure. It's a UK sealer and judging by their postage fees around the UK any overseas stuff will be extortionate.
Thanks for sharing, I think I would have gone for a Matt finish I think a Gloss finish would show high traffic areas when it wears back? I understand about the sanding now too!
He was adamant he wanted gloss, its the only gloss one I've ever done still to this day lol. It definitely dries shinier in different places. Still what the customer wants they get.
Just read that resiblock pu is not a cross linking sealer so in the event of milky patches, touching up due to tyre wear or recoating when the sealer looks patchy or at the end of its life you cant just put another coat/ s on or re mulsify sealer you have to strip it all off. If your thinking why is poss to put to coats of sealer on well thats seems to be different when the first coat on you wait 3 hrs before second coat, aftet that you only a window of up to 24hrs to apply 2nd coat, any longer and problems start like delamination. Just saying before somebody makes a very expensive mistake. Matt
matthew calder hi Matt, I spoke to resiblock today and they told me outright that you can apply a PU sealer over the top of another PU or water based sealer. You can't put a water based sealer over the PU. I also questioned them on removal and they said it will naturally wear off after around 5 years due to traffic or environment. They said you can use a stripping agent before the 5 years but they said it's horrible stuff. They said so long as you scuff the surface, they recommended scrubbing down some sharp sand to key it up then re applying a PU sealer won't be a problem. They said paramose is evil stuff and yes it will remove it but it's pricey. They don't recommend re applying before a 5 year period. All the PU really does it protect against oil stains. All sealers should bind the sand. Phill
Well done for phoning them as this info is not on there website??Cant see PU just wearing off, patchy may be but if they say sharp sand will save the day over using a stripper that sounds good. Do you think the scuffed sealer would look ok with another fresh coat on top?Phill I don't expect you to have the answer to this question but lets put this out there as this has been the reason it put me off using it..Imagine your at a new b/paving sealing job and you have checked the weather, checked the sand bed is dry and the tops of the block are dry. Every thing is as dry Ghandi's flip flop! You are now halfway through sealing the drive either halfway through the 1st coat or half way the second coat and a percentage of sealer is still wet. Out of no where it starts to shower/ rain! good old uk weather at its finest! You return the next day hoping you can get the rest of the PU sealer down before the end of the 24 hr window. If you don't see a bloom (milky white patch ) that day you might think you have nothing to worry about. A few days later the customer phones to say the drive doesn't look right and sure enough moisture (milky white patch is trapped under the sealer. What is your next move? How are you going to rectify this problem? MI
matthew calder hmm yeah that is a problem, when I have questioned resi before about the weather and the window they say it's a guide, but ideally for best results both coats need to be down within 48hrs. They did say that applying the 2nd coat a few days later won't hurt. I also asked about the rain, the answer was so long as the first coat has gone down and has had at least 3-4hrs on a good day then it should be fine. They also said it's not quite so detremental on the 2nd coat as the 1st application has already sealed the block. They said a small amount of dampness should be ok so long as it's not pissed down. They tell me more as I'm on there approved contractor list, they have to be more careful with the general public as they don't want to give mixed instructions. I've done a few drives with Resiblock and never had any issues or comebavks. It think like most things it's forward planning and making sure it's well dry. Unfortunately you can't predict the weather, looking up is always going to be better than the weather apps.
Dirty Drive-Away well looks as though the goal posts are widening! Lol. Thanks for letting us in on the info from resi. So Any ideas if it was to rain down on the wet sealer say 2nd coat whats best thing to do? Cheers phill, M
matthew calder hard to say to be honest. If there was even a remote possibility of rain I wouldn't put it down. Resi did say that in hotter temps it dries off a lot quicker, 2-3 hrs instead of 4-6.
Non related to the video, but what is the make/brand of the brushes you use for sanding/bleaching block paving?
Cameron Cairns I use wolfgarten brooms etc. They have interchangeable heads.
Hi Phil. Very good vid. Quick question. You mentioned that a good quality sealant sorts out the weeds, ants, etc. Is this a permanent fix, or do you still recommend spaying a good quality weed killer (e.g Rostate 360), 6/8 weeks after the sealant has been applied? Many thanks.
Hi Paul, a good sealer will bind the sand setting it hard. This in turn help prevent weeds from seeding in the sand or growing through it. Since the jointing sand will be hard after the sealer has been applied a weedkiller won't actually do anything since it can't penetrate the now binded sand. Using an acrylic/polyurethane sealer makes the joints impermeable, meaning it will also take away the natural drainage that block paving has. This is why I always assess areas prior to quoting for sealing as some (especially patios) tend to lack good drainage. When it rains heavily you will end up with pooling water. The only time you should need a weedkiller after sealing is if in time the sand cracks and weeds can grow. I have seen sealed driveways that have remained pretty much weed free for many many years. Phill
Dirty Drive-Away Thanks for the reply. Drainage could potentially be an issue. So, after re-sanding, a coverage of weed killer every 6/8 weeks should be ok?
@@paulyoung2814 hey Paul, yeah if your not going to seal it then a regular weedkilling regime is best. You can buy permeable sealers which a designed for SUDS paving. It seals the blocks but still allows water through. Can be quite pricey though, www.resiblock.com/product/resiblock-envirofix/
Dirty Drive-Away Many thanks.
what's your advise for dried kiln sand getting brushed in when living in a wet part of the country. I live in the north of Scotland, cheers.
Hmm tough one because if it gets wet it just clumps up and does nothing. Really don't know what to suggest as I only sand when it's dry, even if it starts to rain it can go tits up really quickly.
Just have to tell the customer I'll have to come back when the day is dry. Thanks good work
Were r the gloves
Don't need them. Latex gloves will dissolve in the solvent anyway.
Need to Use a Concrete form sprayer !
Resiblock isn't sprayable, they clearly state that. It goes off too quickly and clogs the spray nozzles.
How can I check if drainage is going to be an issue please?
What do you mean? If you seal the driveway you will effectively be taking away all natural drainage through the blocks.
Dirty Drive-Away that’s what I am worried about as there no drain in this patio area
@@baggiemad yeah it can cause pooling issues if there is nowhere for the water to run too. There are permeable sealers available to comply with SUDS regulations. These sealers bind the sand but are also permeable to allow water to soak through. They are pretty expensive though and resiblocks version is called envirofix
www.resiblock.com/product/resiblock-envirofix/
If drainage is an issue using something like this may be your only option if your looking for a sealer. Phill
Do your customers pay for the resiblock or does it come out of your pocket ?
Customers pay for it. Resiblock is too expensive to be giving away free. In fact sealing will easily triple the price of a normal clean/sand.
@@DirtyDriveAway exactly my thinking mate, so I take it it’s a resiblock sealer or no sealer ? What about smart seal ? My customs would never pay for resi 🤣
@@Unknown-us4nx I only use resi if the customer insists otherwise its smartseal or K-seal. Resi is a nightmare if it gets damp, so I avoid it as much as possible.
Good job as always Phil! That other sanding job is a joke!! What sort of labour do you charge to seal a drive?
Tom Wilson hi Tom, I charge £1.25 a sqM per coat. 2nd coat goes down in no time. Plus materials etc, it's quite straight forward to do if using good products.
would u think a sealer is needed for 450mm pavers, which will have polymeric sand in the joints? or not necessary? sorry btw, i watch all your vids, and seem to ask you a question each time :) best on here tho.
Chris C hey Chris, it really depends upon why you want it sealed, silly question I know. Yes you could use a sealer as well as poly sand but the main reason for using something like Resiblock superior is because it binds the sand. Using poly sand and say Resiblock may be a bit counter productive as the sealer won't do the sand binding part. In turn you will use less sealer however I could see potential pooling issues in the joints as a lot of poly sands are not water absorbing so the sealer won't penetrate through the poly sand. If your considering sealing I would probably not use a poly sand. The poly sand can leave a powdery residue on the surface which would need to be fully removed before sealing otherwise you'll trap it in. As a contractor poly sand is a cheaper option as it's only slightly more time consuming than regular kiln dried sand whereas sealing take a couple visits and take a lot longer to apply. If I had to chooses between sealing and poly sand I would choose sealing as it offers more than 1 benefit...so long as the conditions are right
damn, ok. and i just bought 2 expensive bags of it too. well at least will save me buying the sealer, and maybe in a year or 2, replace with kiln sand and apply a sealer. i will make sure i am careful with the poly before i wet it so as not to have any on the actual paver. will be applying the sodium hypo before all this tho to remove the lichen, received a 25litre today, wont need it all tho. your videos are a really helpful guide, so thanks, and keep doing what you do mate :)
Chris C what make is this sand your using? I've only ever used kingfisher and Resiblock and they are £35 for 15kg kingfisher or £55+del for 20kg Resiblock.
Amazing videos Phil,
There's one question that bothers me, what about already sealed surface, should I remove old sealer with other chemicals, or pressure washing gently will do the job, just reapply on top. Thanks
Nerijus Puzas it really depends what sealer was used. If you ask for resiblocks advice they would probably say all old sealer should be removed. I am not entirely sure how this is done as most polyurethane sealers are pretty jet wash proof. Most sealers last a few years and resiblock give there's around 5 years. I know a good solvent may soften it but to be honest I've never had a job whereby I'm sealing a previously sealed driveway. Phill
Enviromose pro removes polyurethane sealers with ease.
Hi, very informative vid once again. I had a recent customer ask me to brush salt into the joints first then sand. She said she heard it would help kill any weed roots that were still there. What are your thoughts on this?
Edge Mandem I have heard salt can help with weeds although personally I wouldn't want to introduce it onto block paving as it can potentially lead to white staining as the blocks will absorb it when wet. This is even more so important of sealing is involved because it will seal the stain in. In most cases especially on new bricks you are trying to avoid/remove natural salts to stop efflorescence blooms. Has the customer not heard of a good weedkilling regime lol.
Great job Phil, can I ask is it a requirement to sand block paving before sealing or can I just seal straight away once it’s cleaned? Thanks
No you need around 5days of dry time before sealing, sometimes more depending on the drive. The whole idea of sealing is to bind the sand so you need to sand then seal, preferably at the same time. So you clean, wait 5-7days to fully drain/dry, the sand & seal. If its wet when you try and seal it will leave you with a big mess.
This was too much for me so I went with something cheaper. Can this sealer be applied using a sprayer? Also does this put some customers off with the price of the sealant?
Ding Bat Driving. Hmm sprayers, I wouldnt recommend it. Purely because it's high solvent sealer and will probably melt the seals, also it starts going hard quite quick so I think it may start clogging pretty quickly. You could also go through quite a lot of sealer fairly quickly, I always find a roller the best and most controlled way of applying. If it was a water based sealer I'm pretty sure it would be fine. Yes this isn't a cheap product but it works exactly as described if applied correctly. Resiblock offer a no oil stain guarantee on this sealer so you should be able to wipe off any oil spills. The downside is that this type of sealer is exceptionally hard to remove, they say it degrades itself over time (3-4 years) but anything before that period then it will either need chemically stripping or keying up really well before re applying.
I thought not, mine is solvent free. I've heard people ask about removing, but why would you? You want it as hard wearing as possible, especially when you've got cars and people on it all day. Does look good.
Ding Bat Driving it's not so much removing it, it's just the people seem to think they need to keep doing it every year or so, unless you key it up it's like painting over gloss it just won't stick without a good prep.
Ah ok I see. I did the front drive with a lesser product and over 2 years all the protection has gone, and that was with mainly the elements taking it off. As I don't mind cleaning and redoing I'm fine, but I might give yours a go. Do you just clean and protect or do you lay as well?
Ding Bat Driving I just clean, I do do sealing but it's something I like to assess per customer as the price of resi is quite high and I don't like using cheap products. To be fair doing it every couple years isn't really a hardship just the labour cost can add up. Resiblock is a 2 coat application whereas some are only 1.
That looks like a £1000 job with the cleaning and sealing. In my area, If I quoted £150 for the clean alone they would shudder and throw up. LOL. I think its the thought of them having to move the Bently.
With the resiblock it was £1100
the blocks near the roadside wall...huh??
What about them?
small to large with an odd looking tall triangle near the pillar.
@@MegaMaxymoo oh yeah lol, the neighbour reversed into the wall apparently and knocked it down. The bits were all chucked on the other side of the main wall on the grass behind the camera. He was waiting for a builder to re build lol.
great video how long does the sealing last .do you need to resand and reseal every year
This sealer will last 4-5 years, it shouldn't come out with a jet wash. You can't reseal every year without keying the surface as the new sealer won't bond. These sealers start to naturally wear and break down after about 3-4 years but it's highly dependent on the amount of traffic the area receives. I have seen 15 year old sealed driveways and the sand is still rock solid.
Thanks for the input. Does it really keep away the weeds and moss I have just put down a new drive and moss free for a long as possible
@@paulelscey2465 yes, it's the only way to really keep weeds at bay. Poly sands etc don't work for long. Sealers will bind the sand solid for years, providing it's applied properly.
The sound is dreadful and the background traffic noise made hearing this really difficult.
Omg did you help that person with the atrocious sanding job? Thats rediculous. I know this video is years old but I need to know.... what happened there? 😳
No that sanding job was just one that I had seen being cleaned. A few days later I passed the same driveway and that's how it had been left. Even a week later the sand was still like that. Some people have no pride in their work and think that's acceptable 🙄.
Superior gloss thought it would be glossier.
Yeah to be honest I thought it was going to be proper bling but it isn't. To be fair it was quite nice, it had a slight shine, more than the Matt version which even though is classed as Matt can have a satin damp look. Problem is a lot of people think gloss and it's going to be proper shiney but it's quite subtle. Even still it's not everyone's cup of tea hence why I don't do many gloss ones as people get put off by the "gloss" bit. Phill
Cheers for the reply I've tried a couple of gloss ones that say gloss or high shine but just darken (glossy)a bit then look normal when fully dry cost a fortune to.
@@clawbackx nearly all acrylic sealers will darken the block (damp look) bit with a Matt finish. Water based sealers go down with a damp look but tend to dry off natural with no serious change in colour. The gloss sealer does give a higher shine than the Matt but not super shiney. The problem is if they were super glossy most people wouldn't buy them as there is that myth that if it's shiney it's going to be slippery when wet.
Yes tried both versions now think I'll just keep cleaning and sanding it cheers.
Arnt you supposed to brush it off mate ??
No, you just roller it on and it soaks into the blocks and joints. You only need to brush it off if your dealing with riven natural stone where it may pool in the recesses.
Hahahhahahah hahahahahahhaha
Do you still do this? Is this your job? Just asking as we have a drive desperately in need of a clean, re sand and seal 😀
Hi yeah I've been doing it for years. If you in my area and want it done drop me an email at dirtydriveaway@gmail.com all the best, phill