So good to see how you pinched the fittings and then twist to snug them up. Ive seen the pinch part, but never could get the pipes to stay in place... So now I know that trick. Also here's a tip i learned from an ol' timer when he started teaching me to, "HEAT THE SLEEVE, NOT THE ARM" in others heat the fitting not the pipe. Oh and heres one more, "Whe you See the flux sweating, add the silver." Thanks Dewy for teaching me.
Actually, the rule is to always apply the heat to the heavier material. For something like an elbow, heat the tubing a short distance away and let the heat move into the joint. That way you don't burn the flux. However, I don't apply heat directly to ball valves.
@@KevinMaxwell-o3t Not disagreeing with you, but it would be interesting to film a joint being soldered with an IR/thermal camera and watch exactly how the heat spreads and what effect does applying the solder have...
I don't like messy looking solder joints with solder drips on them. So one trick you left out is to wipe the joints with some steel wool while they are still molten, just be sure to wear heat proof gloves. The steel wool will remove excess solder and leave a nice profession looking joint. I like the paste flux better as it stays in place and you don't have to use as much. if you don't have a wad of steel wool handy a damp rag also works good to to clean-up joints. I like your WD-40 trick. As far as SharkBite fittings go, a new laundry tub faucet I installed recently came with them built-in to the fixture, so I had no choice but to use them. So far so good! I also had a leaky joint on a hot water heater because the supply valve would not completely shutoff the flow. So I went with a SharkBite fitting over 15 years ago and it is still good to this day. Pressure testing shows they can pull apart at around 350LBs of pressure, whereas silver solder can withstand over one thousand pounds of water pressure. The plumber doing the testing found the copper pipes often split before the solder joints gave out.
Looks are secondary. I dislike the possibility of fracturing the solder while it's still molten. Clean with WD40 later, only. I wear my solder drips with pride on this point.
I started early 70's, have always Face sanded my Fittings, chamfered the inside of my pipe, used just enough flux to cover the fitting/pipe not smother it in flux, Heat draws the solder in, squeeze is good. Keep up your good practices.
I've seen bad soldering lead to a pinhole that set off a chain of events that resulted in a school bus full of nuns going off a cliff and bursting into flames at the bottom. I can still hear the screams. Anyway, this is a good video because I think it will help avoid these kinds of catastrophes in the future.
I wipe all access flux off before sweating. Then only hit the solder once so you don't get a puddle on top. I believe I seen you knock the drip off the bottom right away with the solder. Then i wipe it off with just a damp rag. This process usually leaves pretty clean results. If you really want it look perfect use tinning flux so you can use slightly less flux.
Wow! you used a lot of flux. Remember you re not making a sandwich that you have to use a lot of mayonnaise. LOL. Flux is used to clean and prepare copper for soldering, but if there's excess flux left on the pipe, it can prevent the formation of a protective copper oxide layer. This can lead to pitting, which is a type of corrosion that can cause pinhole leaks. It really happened to me when I first soldered a Moen tub faucet to some cooper pipes. I think I used too much because years later I noticed leaks under my tub. I noticed my copper pipes were all pitted. I now use just q-tip to apply flux to only the area that I gonna solder.
@@Rescueplumber-mcs I always kept a wet rag handy, when I finish soldering a joint or severl joints I would wipe it down, it would take the flux off and make it shine. One thing to remember is you have to boil all the flux out of the joint to make way for the solder, never over flux.
A while back I had a problem with that brand of Flux so I called the company. After a small discussion they said to stir it thoroughly because it can separate. I did and all has been good.
Thanks tips … not a plumber therefor rarely tackle it @all differently can’t flux solder @ all but hvac for 29 yrs can & do braze copper all day long 15- 10 % sill floss …. why not. Flux . no idea , but need practice on some scrap pipe iam guess thanks new subscriber
Helpful tips. I stick with the blue gas as I don’t do soldering that often. Takes a little longer for sure but possibly less likely to start a fire. Sharkbites work fine if you follow their instructions for insertion depth and demurring the pipe ends. I have some in place for over 15 years. Australians and Europeans used them for years. The Sharkbites are easier to insert.
@RC-qf1et Thanks for commenting. I knew this would come up in one of the comments ( I.P.C. 705.5.1 -705.5.5) does not mention that. Please send me details of where you found it? Honestly, .I'm glad I did because of all the commenting on this subject . Thanks again, and Merry Christmas
@@Rescueplumber-mcs It is in the UPC and it applies to all types of materials, copper, iron, stainless steel, plastics etc. Not reaming or deburring will definitely cause wear within the piping and in the case of copper will lead to pin hole leaks. I don't have the code section(s) on me but it is there. I am surprised if IPC does not mandate this as it is a must in piping preparation. Thank you for the reply, have a nice day.
Wd40, or any other oily substance will permeate the copper pipe and if you ever need to solder over that section it will often cause a leak. Soapy damp rag or even spray with some 409 is always the way to go.
@Rescueplumber-mcs i just retired, but 24 years ago as a new apprentice we received a load of copper pipe that kept having leaks after soldering. Turns out it had gotten threading machine cutting oil on it in various spots LOL.
Nobody will do this now a days. My father was a master plumber. I was a journeyman at 24. I started at 13. I went into electronics and ended up owning a car stereo and alarm store in the 90s. My grandfather was a master plumber and then an inspector in the 50s. My father did this to every joint. It was like he was programmed. I ended up helping my family after my father took a stroke. He had a huge customer base. Side jobs only. But I would end up doing most jobs for free because my father would never charge the elderly. I know times have changed. It’s a new world. Honestly I still have 4 tanks of gas with turbo torches on them. Now a days it’s sharkbite for all the diy guys..
@doingstufforatleasttrying4843 Thanks for sharing . You are ao right sharkbites everywhere. I still remember pouring lead joins. Can only imagine what 10 years from now looks like
@@doingstufforatleasttrying4843 Thanks for sharing. I still remember pouring lead joins. I can only imagine what 10 years from now looks like. I still believe copper is the best way
@Rescueplumber-mcs Speaking of lead joints. I had to cut soil pipe with a chisel. My father had the chain breaker and everything and said he did it this way In his day. My uncle was actually a plumbing teacher at a technical school that I attended. Of course I was the teachers pet because I knew everything. I saw a guy spit into the furnace because someone dared him to do it. The lead immediately wrap around his face and he was screaming. Worst thing I ever saw. I still have 3 inch copper drain line in my house. I still keep myself busy. I must admit. I am the person I am today because of my father..keep up the good work.. take care...👍
@@Rescueplumber-mcs I remember watching my dad poor lead too. He built our house in the early 60's, did 90% of the work himself including making the blue prints. He only had an eighth grade education but was more intelligent than most people with a collage education. Going to collage doesn't make you smart it just makes you educated. I wouldn't trade the common sense God blessed me with for a collage education any day of the week. Common sense, if you ain't got it,you can't be taught it.
Now this is how I do copper pipe! Forget about pro-press ProPress tool itself is so expensive, Don't really trust shark bites I don't care what they say, nothing like old school soldering play special skills to do anyway! 👍
Master plumber let’s see if you are up to speed.Heat Pumps yip that is probably above your pay grade,here in the U.K. cowboys rule.Good job good videos now to take it to the next level.Heat Pumps.
@ It’s the pipe work suppling the heat pump and the pipe work supping the radiators.It is a cowboy trade,it wasn’t me it was the plumber haha excuses all day long but not them.🏴
@ ok thanks I do a lot of plumbing work and I try to charge a fair price. Some people tell me I don’t charge enough. I’m not licensed but I’m very skilled. Also I’m a retired Engineer.
I’m sorry but if you give 5 plumbers a way to do something you will have 5 different answers but he could have propressed it all in and sweat the 45s in and wiped them . Master P !
@elainerussell924 Hello, I thought it was pretty much a given, but I have got many comments on this topic, so I made a video of just that. Thanks for commenting
No ream of ID at cut, for piece of copper pipe? My Dad, as a contractor working under contract with the federal government during the 1960s, told me rotary "pipe cutters" were forbidden. Hacksaws were required, because that method of cutting didn't crimp the inner diameter of the pipe. Richard Tretheway of This Old House has more recently told how un-reamed inner diameters cause eddy currents inside the pipe, which causes uneven loss of copper and eventual leaks.
@johnbecich9540 That might be true, but I haven't seen it personally, and if i did, i wasn't aware that deburring caused the leak. I would do it more if that was the way I was taught
electrician here, we actually use Milwaukee cordless circular saws with metal cutting blades in them for our EMT. We have the same problem with ridges, it strips insulation off of wire. also if you ream that part after using one of those c-shaped cutters, you're thinning the metal out quite a bit. I'm a fan of solder but it doesn't matter if they use too much flux because it's just going to boil out and suck the solder in. I've never seen these shark bites used anywhere but Jesus Christ these contractors are so cheap these days they don't deserve things like this. they're already making so much money, spend the time and do it right. Your reputation is at stake and if you have to go back to fix a job you're working on something a second time for free.
Excessive flux can leave flux pockets in the joint. This is where the flux did not escape before the solder surrounded it. This means the solder in that section of the joint may only be millimeters thick. Over time normal vibration will crack the joint, causing a leak. You only need enough flux to prevent air from oxidizing the copper until the solder fill the void.
Two things wrong with this video. First is a glairing mistake that likely create another pinhole leak in same area in the future. Failing to ream lip inside of pipe from tubing cutter causes erosion corrosion. Mechanical fluid turbulence created by that inside lip will eventually erode the pipe causing pin hole leaks. Highly likely turbulence from the shark-bites caused the leak in the first place. Second is that's a tad heavy on the flux getting excess flux pushed inside the pipe. Water pipe... not a huge issue but excessive silver solder paste for refrigerant line sets is a serious mistake. Otherwise good hints for DIYers.
@@Rescueplumber-mcs I never did BUT they say not reaming causes turbulence that can wear a hole in the heel of the 90, but by that time you're long gone! BUT in galvanized pipe the turbulence helps clear calcium deposits in the 90!
@dannypalmer7701 Use a turbo torch.. I have soldered pipes in emergencies that were full of water. It will take longer, but try to open as much as possible to let it drain as much as possible. You need tons of heat. Turbo torch will work fine.
Before you attempt to solder the leaking joint take some preferably stale bread and stuff it up inside the pipe to create a plug above the joint you want to solder. When done turn on the main water valve , the water pressure will push the bread out to an open faucet.
I don't understand why you just don't use alcohol or some other cleaner to get the flux off? You're eliminating all of the flux with something like that, I'm not sure that the WD-40 is going to do much other than let you rub most of it off and then mix with it and stay on the pipe. I guess I'll believe you if you have the experience and haven't had any call backs after a few years of doing this. thanks for the video
@bartmormino907 Thanks for commenting. I never went to plumbing school. I could have looked it up to answer the question, but I taught on job training. Until it drips!
If you can do a good solder joint, you'll never have problems! To hell with shark bites and all those PP fittings that are xx amount of $$ every fitting you have!
@yes it was used on my replacement furnace after a freeze break…….pretty impressive….. but the cost yay ya yayyyy for the equipment…..not worth it for once in a while work ……but reliability only time will tell….
In over 24 years I've never fluxed the inside of a fitting and have never had a problem with it. In fact, you have way too much flux on that pipe. One other thing, pinching the pipe and distorting it is not a good idea either.
@ Theres is always a inner burr when cutting pipe, even with a pipe cutter, put ur finger inside and pull outwards, you will feel it, this burr will cause turbulence in the water than can cause the pin holes that you had
There are half a million homes in my city with lead-soldered copper water pipes. People drinking that water have been dying steadily every year. I'm so thankful that we've finally figured out why.
@Handle-q6x YES, sir. I have done a video on it also. Because I had issues with brass fitting that same week. The CHEMICALS the P.S.D. and / or city add to the water
@ Pin holes, when there’s one there will be more. I’m going to look your your video. I never thought of or saw the crimping hack before. Thank You for sharing that.
@@Handle-q6x Pin holes coming from the inside out most likely are from oxygen in the water! Outside in holes are from high-acid soils or electrolysis, which can eat through type L tube & brass gate valves in less than 2 years, so I went to plastic, it lasts forever!
Pin holes in copper pipes come from two different kinds of metal pipes hooked together, like galvanized pipe and copper, you can do this but there needs to be a dialectic Union used to separate the two. When you have this problem it's cause is from electrolysis and copper being the weaker of the two metals will get thinner untill a pin hole appears , this can show up anyplace on the copper pipe a distance away from the galvanized union.
Not correct, A “properly” soldered joint is extremely hard to make leak. I will take a properly soldered joint over ANY OTHER joining method. Pro-press would be my second choice, Shark Bite and Compression fitting I will Never use, they work, I just don’t trust them inside a home.
@@dannypalmer7701 if you clean, wire brush, fine sandpaper the end, flux, use plumbing solder, know how to torch the area, you will never get a leak.At the joint.
Thanks....im a DiY guy replacing plumbing on multiple houses this vid is giving me the confidence to start using a torch and solder copper
@mariorebac5990 Good to hear this from watching my video. Thanks for sharing
So good to see how you pinched the fittings and then twist to snug them up. Ive seen the pinch part, but never could get the pipes to stay in place... So now I know that trick.
Also here's a tip i learned from an ol' timer when he started teaching me to, "HEAT THE SLEEVE, NOT THE ARM" in others heat the fitting not the pipe. Oh and heres one more, "Whe you See the flux sweating, add the silver." Thanks Dewy for teaching me.
@@WiliamBennettwildarbennett Thanks for sharing. I enjoy teaching and learning. Great stuff
And don't touch cleaned part of the fitting or the tubing.
Actually, the rule is to always apply the heat to the heavier material. For something like an elbow, heat the tubing a short distance away and let the heat move into the joint. That way you don't burn the flux. However, I don't apply heat directly to ball valves.
@WiliamBennettwildarbennett Thanks for sharing. The whole idea of making these videos is to help someone, and I learn new studd also from comments
@@KevinMaxwell-o3t Not disagreeing with you, but it would be interesting to film a joint being soldered with an IR/thermal camera and watch exactly how the heat spreads and what effect does applying the solder have...
Thank you, sir. Skilled tradesmen are the backbone of our economy.I am a 50 year machinist.
@@brianparramore1104 Bless you
I don't like messy looking solder joints with solder drips on them. So one trick you left out is to wipe the joints with some steel wool while they are still molten, just be sure to wear heat proof gloves. The steel wool will remove excess solder and leave a nice profession looking joint. I like the paste flux better as it stays in place and you don't have to use as much. if you don't have a wad of steel wool handy a damp rag also works good to to clean-up joints. I like your WD-40 trick.
As far as SharkBite fittings go, a new laundry tub faucet I installed recently came with them built-in to the fixture, so I had no choice but to use them. So far so good! I also had a leaky joint on a hot water heater because the supply valve would not completely shutoff the flow. So I went with a SharkBite fitting over 15 years ago and it is still good to this day. Pressure testing shows they can pull apart at around 350LBs of pressure, whereas silver solder can withstand over one thousand pounds of water pressure. The plumber doing the testing found the copper pipes often split before the solder joints gave out.
@fishbones2 Thanks for commenting. I never thought about Steel Wool before
Looks are secondary. I dislike the possibility of fracturing the solder while it's still molten. Clean with WD40 later, only. I wear my solder drips with pride on this point.
@johnbecich9540 Thanks for sharing. I believe we can have both, don't you?
I like joints that don't leak,end of
@dillsplosion5334 true that
Very goor tip about crimping the fittings onto the pipe, Thanks.
@@billcoleman7316 Thank you for sharing. Some of the tricks of the trade i learn and don't mind sharing.
I started early 70's, have always Face sanded my Fittings, chamfered the inside of my pipe, used just enough flux to cover the fitting/pipe not smother it in flux, Heat draws the solder in, squeeze is good. Keep up your good practices.
@@raymondjacobs8429 Thanks for the kind words. Bless you
Great video. Keep em coming.
I'm not a plumber. I just pretend to be one for my family and friends.
@@netpasya thanks for sharing. I try to help everyone so they can get by
I love using your cutter as a temporary clamp and the tip on WD 40 on the greenies was insporational
@@donbrosnahan1382 Thanks for sharing. Every comment helps me know what people are looking at
I've seen bad soldering lead to a pinhole that set off a chain of events that resulted in a school bus full of nuns going off a cliff and bursting into flames at the bottom. I can still hear the screams. Anyway, this is a good video because I think it will help avoid these kinds of catastrophes in the future.
WD40......well who knew!......at 71 I'm still learning........Great idea....thanks for the tip!......keep 'em coming....
@markm8995 Thanks for commenting. I'm glad you enjoyed my video
I wipe all access flux off before sweating. Then only hit the solder once so you don't get a puddle on top. I believe I seen you knock the drip off the bottom right away with the solder. Then i wipe it off with just a damp rag. This process usually leaves pretty clean results. If you really want it look perfect use tinning flux so you can use slightly less flux.
@mattm2684 Thanks for commenting. There are many ways to do the same project. I have used damp rag many rimes. But this is what I prefer .
The only thing I seen you didn't discuss was reaming the pipe. Other than that, great video
@chadciciotte6996 Yes, you're right. Thanks for commenting
Wow! you used a lot of flux. Remember you re not making a sandwich that you have to use a lot of mayonnaise. LOL. Flux is used to clean and prepare copper for soldering, but if there's excess flux left on the pipe, it can prevent the formation of a protective copper oxide layer. This can lead to pitting, which is a type of corrosion that can cause pinhole leaks. It really happened to me when I first soldered a Moen tub faucet to some cooper pipes. I think I used too much because years later I noticed leaks under my tub. I noticed my copper pipes were all pitted. I now use just q-tip to apply flux to only the area that I gonna solder.
@ranimouf Thanks for sharing. i will keep that it mind . Light Mayonnaise
@@Rescueplumber-mcs I always kept a wet rag handy, when I finish soldering a joint or severl joints I would wipe it down, it would take the flux off and make it shine. One thing to remember is you have to boil all the flux out of the joint to make way for the solder, never over flux.
@downhillwelder73 Thanks for commenting.
A while back I had a problem with that brand of Flux so I called the company. After a small discussion they said to stir it thoroughly because it can separate. I did and all has been good.
@@ralph5450 Thanks for sharing good information. Happy Thanksgiving
Awesome tricks of the trade!
@@motogp9253 It really does work
The biggest secret to soldering Is cleanliness! Wherever you apply the flux the solder will attach itself to it!
@@DaveBooth-qs7sw That's so true
Thanks tips … not a plumber therefor rarely tackle it @all differently can’t flux solder @ all but hvac for 29 yrs can & do braze copper all day long 15- 10 % sill floss …. why not. Flux . no idea , but need practice on some scrap pipe iam guess thanks new subscriber
@jmead6121 Thanks for commenting i probably couldn't braise at all
Helpful tips. I stick with the blue gas as I don’t do soldering that often. Takes a little longer for sure but possibly less likely to start a fire. Sharkbites work fine if you follow their instructions for insertion depth and demurring the pipe ends. I have some in place for over 15 years. Australians and Europeans used them for years. The Sharkbites are easier to insert.
@rzh3443 As long as it doesn't leak , is what matters
Wow all kinds of tricks
Thin on the flux. Heat the pipe first then move it to the fitting.
Oxidation risk on the copper that way; i.e., no heat first.
Soldering is the best! I do some soldering, pro-press , etc, do not like shark bites.
Always clean the copper pipes!
@Rick-l6o I really like propress myself
Denatured alcohol cleans the flux off also! That's what I use!
@46miles Thanks for sharing. i didn't know that
Thank you 😊
I've never seen the WD 40 trick. I'll give it a try.
good job from canada montreal
@@varoujpapazian4299 Thank you for watching my video and commenting
Never seen the WD-40. Thanks for the video.
@timkral2353 Thanks for commenting. I'm glad you liked the video
Old school, The only way. I can't imagine ever using sharkbites or crimp fittings.
@jeffreywhitlatch1409 Old school stuff works best, in my opinion
@@Rescueplumber-mcs It is best,
Code mandates that the tubing be deburred to the full bore of the pipe lest it creates a pin hole leak.
@RC-qf1et Thanks for commenting. I knew this would come up in one of the comments ( I.P.C. 705.5.1 -705.5.5) does not mention that. Please send me details of where you found it? Honestly, .I'm glad I did because of all the commenting on this subject . Thanks again, and Merry Christmas
@@Rescueplumber-mcs It is in the UPC and it applies to all types of materials, copper, iron, stainless steel, plastics etc. Not reaming or deburring will definitely cause wear within the piping and in the case of copper will lead to pin hole leaks. I don't have the code section(s) on me but it is there. I am surprised if IPC does not mandate this as it is a must in piping preparation. Thank you for the reply, have a nice day.
@RC-qf1et Thank you. I will check into UPC book. I really enjoy the feedback
Wd40, or any other oily substance will permeate the copper pipe and if you ever need to solder over that section it will often cause a leak. Soapy damp rag or even spray with some 409 is always the way to go.
@@mikemiller9030 Thanks for commenting. I did not think about the 409. I will try the 409. Thanks again
@Rescueplumber-mcs i just retired, but 24 years ago as a new apprentice we received a load of copper pipe that kept having leaks after soldering. Turns out it had gotten threading machine cutting oil on it in various spots LOL.
@mikemiller9030 WOW. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
What type of flux do you recommend for water supply lines? Or does it not matter, thanks!
Its old news ive been soldering since i was 7 and im 61 solder joints last forever
What is the name of the touch brand? U could state in Ur transcription! Ths.
@rubiconklbrutorowman7577 Hello, thanks for your question. The torch is TURBO TORCH EXTREME maps gas yellow bottle
Nobody will do this now a days. My father was a master plumber. I was a journeyman at 24. I started at 13. I went into electronics and ended up owning a car stereo and alarm store in the 90s. My grandfather was a master plumber and then an inspector in the 50s. My father did this to every joint. It was like he was programmed. I ended up helping my family after my father took a stroke. He had a huge customer base. Side jobs only. But I would end up doing most jobs for free because my father would never charge the elderly. I know times have changed. It’s a new world. Honestly I still have 4 tanks of gas with turbo torches on them. Now a days it’s sharkbite for all the diy guys..
@doingstufforatleasttrying4843 Thanks for sharing . You are ao right sharkbites everywhere. I still remember pouring lead joins. Can only imagine what 10 years from now looks like
@@doingstufforatleasttrying4843 Thanks for sharing. I still remember pouring lead joins. I can only imagine what 10 years from now looks like. I still believe copper is the best way
@Rescueplumber-mcs Speaking of lead joints. I had to cut soil pipe with a chisel. My father had the chain breaker and everything and said he did it this way In his day. My uncle was actually a plumbing teacher at a technical school that I attended. Of course I was the teachers pet because I knew everything. I saw a guy spit into the furnace because someone dared him to do it. The lead immediately wrap around his face and he was screaming. Worst thing I ever saw. I still have 3 inch copper drain line in my house. I still keep myself busy. I must admit. I am the person I am today because of my father..keep up the good work.. take care...👍
@@Rescueplumber-mcs
I remember watching my dad poor lead too.
He built our house in the early 60's, did 90% of the work himself including making the blue prints.
He only had an eighth grade education but was more intelligent than most people with a collage education.
Going to collage doesn't make you smart it just makes you educated.
I wouldn't trade the common sense God blessed me with for a collage education any day of the week.
Common sense, if you ain't got it,you can't be taught it.
@frederickshipp8013 with common sense, is a God-given talent
What would youdo if the angels were wrong when you got back to the pipe, is it heat and move the pipe with no leaks?
@@Bailey-y9b Thanks for commenting. Reheat and adjust
Now this is how I do copper pipe!
Forget about pro-press ProPress tool itself is so expensive,
Don't really trust shark bites I don't care what they say, nothing like old school soldering play special skills to do anyway! 👍
It's Tubing! Type K, L, or M,! "Pipe" can be threaded, tubing, not so much!
Master plumber let’s see if you are up to speed.Heat Pumps yip that is probably above your pay grade,here in the U.K. cowboys rule.Good job good videos now to take it to the next level.Heat Pumps.
@Allegedly2right I don't work on HVAC, just a plumber. Thanks for commenting
@ It’s the pipe work suppling the heat pump and the pipe work supping the radiators.It is a cowboy trade,it wasn’t me it was the plumber haha excuses all day long but not them.🏴
👍🏻Thanks for sharing
Is using to much flux a problem?
@@Rick-tb4so Thanks for your question. Not really. Oily and a mess is all
Show us a couple of tricks ! Do you pull a rabbit out of a water line ?? How about some card tricks !!!!
@elainerussell924 Hello, the only real trick I know, and I show all the kids, is the one where it looks like i remove my finger. Hahaha
@Rescueplumber-mcs remove your finger from what ? Or should I ask !!!
@elainerussell924 Have you never seen someone slide their thumb on the opposite hand, and it looks like they removed the finger
Pinching the pipe is an excellent idea...an oldtimers trick I guess
@glennunderwood4690 Thanks for sharing . I was still apprentice when I learned that trick of the trade
What do you charge per hour?
@gregsexton6544 I don't think that's something that needs to be discussed .
@ ok thanks I do a lot of plumbing work and I try to charge a fair price. Some people tell me I don’t charge enough. I’m not licensed but I’m very skilled. Also I’m a retired Engineer.
I’m sorry but if you give 5 plumbers a way to do something you will have 5 different answers but he could have propressed it all in and sweat the 45s in and wiped them . Master P !
@@blondestrainger True
You forgot to ream out the inside of the pipe after cutting it ! Another trick !
@elainerussell924 Hello, I thought it was pretty much a given, but I have got many comments on this topic, so I made a video of just that. Thanks for commenting
@Rescueplumber-mcs you got it magician!
I didn’t see you ream the inside of the pipe, I was taught to do that
@BlakeOsburn Thanks for commenting. You are right. Sometimes, I leave stuff out just to get comments. Thanks for watching my video
Just subscribed.
@rubiconklbrutorowman7577 Thanks for subscribing to my channel
Only thing you forgot to deburr the inside of the pipe.
@chrisschumacher7237 Yes sir. I made a different video on deburring copper pipe
Great video thanks
@@JacksLore Thank you. What did you find most interesting?
I know that the new crimping system is faster, but I still prefer pipes to be sweated.
@@cjimcook thanks for sharing. There's definitely some benefits for sweating copper
You can clip the handle off the fitting brush and run it in a drill
@AllenNelson-y9m Yes, I have done it many times, especially when on a large commercial new construction . Thanks for commenting
No ream of ID at cut, for piece of copper pipe? My Dad, as a contractor working under contract with the federal government during the 1960s, told me rotary "pipe cutters" were forbidden. Hacksaws were required, because that method of cutting didn't crimp the inner diameter of the pipe. Richard Tretheway of This Old House has more recently told how un-reamed inner diameters cause eddy currents inside the pipe, which causes uneven loss of copper and eventual leaks.
@johnbecich9540 That might be true, but I haven't seen it personally, and if i did, i wasn't aware that deburring caused the leak. I would do it more if that was the way I was taught
electrician here, we actually use Milwaukee cordless circular saws with metal cutting blades in them for our EMT. We have the same problem with ridges, it strips insulation off of wire. also if you ream that part after using one of those c-shaped cutters, you're thinning the metal out quite a bit. I'm a fan of solder but it doesn't matter if they use too much flux because it's just going to boil out and suck the solder in. I've never seen these shark bites used anywhere but Jesus Christ these contractors are so cheap these days they don't deserve things like this. they're already making so much money, spend the time and do it right. Your reputation is at stake and if you have to go back to fix a job you're working on something a second time for free.
Excessive flux can leave flux pockets in the joint. This is where the flux did not escape before the solder surrounded it. This means the solder in that section of the joint may only be millimeters thick. Over time normal vibration will crack the joint, causing a leak. You only need enough flux to prevent air from oxidizing the copper until the solder fill the void.
@1959Vento Thanks for commenting. This is a completely new term for me, flux pockets.
Two things wrong with this video. First is a glairing mistake that likely create another pinhole leak in same area in the future.
Failing to ream lip inside of pipe from tubing cutter causes erosion corrosion. Mechanical fluid turbulence created by that inside lip will eventually erode the pipe causing pin hole leaks. Highly likely turbulence from the shark-bites caused the leak in the first place.
Second is that's a tad heavy on the flux getting excess flux pushed inside the pipe. Water pipe... not a huge issue but excessive silver solder paste for refrigerant line sets is a serious mistake. Otherwise good hints for DIYers.
Did you ream the copper after you cut it ?
@Ron-xn4wf No, i didn't, but many people believe it should be
@@Rescueplumber-mcs I never did BUT they say not reaming causes turbulence that can wear a hole in the heel of the 90, but by that time you're long gone! BUT in galvanized pipe the turbulence helps clear calcium deposits in the 90!
What if theres water dripping yet in a cold water copper pipe?
@dannypalmer7701 Use a turbo torch.. I have soldered pipes in emergencies that were full of water. It will take longer, but try to open as much as possible to let it drain as much as possible. You need tons of heat. Turbo torch will work fine.
Before you attempt to solder the leaking joint take some preferably stale bread and stuff it up inside the pipe to create a plug above the joint you want to solder. When done turn on the main water valve , the water pressure will push the bread out to an open faucet.
@wirefeed3419 great idea also...
You can pack bread into the tube to stop dripping, then solder quickly, it washes out easily!
Didn’t know bout that WD 40
Hope the little tricks help you
6:47 What are you doing with your right arm here? Are you swatting at flies? I can't figure out what's going on here
@faradaysage15 Yellow jacket is trying to get me
Don't forget to clean the flux off the inside of the pipe :(
@@johnbower thanks for sharing
By what ? A flexible reamer ?
@codeblue2532 I can tell you early but will also make a video on it. The copper tubing cutters have a reamer built-in
I don't understand why you just don't use alcohol or some other cleaner to get the flux off? You're eliminating all of the flux with something like that, I'm not sure that the WD-40 is going to do much other than let you rub most of it off and then mix with it and stay on the pipe.
I guess I'll believe you if you have the experience and haven't had any call backs after a few years of doing this. thanks for the video
@faradaysage15 Helps remove oil residue and shines pipe
How much solder for a 3/4" copper fitting, it's on most test?
The amount it takes to wrap around the pipe
@bartmormino907 Thanks for commenting. I never went to plumbing school. I could have looked it up to answer the question, but I taught on job training. Until it drips!
@@Rescueplumber-mcs that holds true for any diameter of pipe
The answer is the fitting size, for example a 1" 90 will take 2" of solder a 1/2" 90 should be 1" of solder.
@bartmormino907 Great information
De burr the pipe inside after the cut is recommended in plumbing school 😩
@alfasweden Thanks for sharing. Yes, sir, deburring is recommended . I think it's great so many people notice it was not done
Only deburr when flaring not soldering
If you can do a good solder joint, you'll never have problems!
To hell with shark bites and all those PP fittings that are xx amount of $$ every fitting you have!
@@erikbrantner4295 Thanks for sharing. Soldering is a skill
@Rescueplumber-mcs yes it is indeed!
This guy Ain’t no plumber
@PhilipTrythall Thanks for commenting. I have a Master Plumbing License. Plumbing over 20 years . Not perfect, but thanks again
the jury is still out on crimped copper …and plastic pipe as to how long it will last and plastic nano particle shedding…..
@blackpine6693 I have been using Pro Press for some time now, and I m starting to like it. Thanks for commenting
@yes it was used on my replacement furnace after a freeze break…….pretty impressive….. but the cost yay ya yayyyy for the equipment…..not worth it for once in a while work ……but reliability only time will tell….
@blackpine6693 True only time will tell.
In over 24 years I've never fluxed the inside of a fitting and have never had a problem with it. In fact, you have way too much flux on that pipe. One other thing, pinching the pipe and distorting it is not a good idea either.
I agree.
😂 You just don't know who came in to fix your leaks.
A rag soaked with transmission fluid does the same thing
@@Jeffrey-y1d I did not know that
Didn't demurrage inside of the cut
@@GeradBarron-n5z Not sure what you mean by DEMURRAGE inside the cut
You have flux pockets in those fittings bro.
De burr the pipe after cutting!!!!!
@@sharpysparky5505 Not really any burst on copper pipe when using copper tubing cutters
@
Theres is always a inner burr when cutting pipe, even with a pipe cutter, put ur finger inside and pull outwards, you will feel it, this burr will cause turbulence in the water than can cause the pin holes that you had
@sharpysparky5505 OK, thanks for the information. I did not know that.
NEVER use solder containing lead on copper water pipe, especially if it's suppling water for human consumption. Just a heads up.
There are half a million homes in my city with lead-soldered copper water pipes. People drinking that water have been dying steadily every year. I'm so thankful that we've finally figured out why.
@@kevanbarley1225 old age.
There is no …trick …hack …or weird way to do anything…….the only way is to do it the right way…..and learn to do it that way …PERIOD…..
@@blackpine6693 Good way to look at it.
Well what is the right way??
@rickford5385 Hello. Thanks for commenting. I would say the right way is that anytime it doesn't leak. It's just the way I was taught
Did you ever figure out why there was a pin hole in that pipe?
@Handle-q6x YES, sir. I have done a video on it also. Because I had issues with brass fitting that same week. The CHEMICALS the P.S.D. and / or city add to the water
@ Pin holes, when there’s one there will be more. I’m going to look your your video. I never thought of or saw the crimping hack before. Thank You for sharing that.
@@Handle-q6x Pin holes coming from the inside out most likely are from oxygen in the water! Outside in holes are from high-acid soils or electrolysis, which can eat through type L tube & brass gate valves in less than 2 years, so I went to plastic, it lasts forever!
Pin holes in copper pipes come from two different kinds of metal pipes hooked together, like galvanized pipe and copper, you can do this but there needs to be a dialectic Union used to separate the two. When you have this problem it's cause is from electrolysis and copper being the weaker of the two metals will get thinner untill a pin hole appears , this can show up anyplace on the copper pipe a distance away from the galvanized union.
@royhall1093 Thanks for commenting. When I first started plumbing, we used dialectic unions everywhere. Don't see many anymore
Way to much paste.
@@_backflowjoe Thanks for sharing
Didn't ream the pipe, will be leaking soon
some add more flux after you sodder , i never believes in it
@@wayne8268 Thanks for sharing. I have seen plumbers do that also. I think it's just to get all extra solder off . But i use a rag
Top banana
Soilder will leak way in the wall.Barely move the pipe and it will come loose!
@dannypalmer7701 Thanks for sharing, not if it's soldered well
Not correct, A “properly” soldered joint is extremely hard to make leak. I will take a properly soldered joint over ANY OTHER joining method. Pro-press would be my second choice, Shark Bite and Compression fitting I will Never use, they work, I just don’t trust them inside a home.
@@dannypalmer7701 if you clean, wire brush, fine sandpaper the end, flux, use plumbing solder, know how to torch the area, you will never get a leak.At the joint.
That's not how the union boys do it.
@mdavis8430 Not all of us learned from union
Hey Brother!
Do you guys
deburr / inside rim your pipe in your neck of the woods?
@JesusRamirez-gh6em Not always. When it's a large commercial building trying to get a lot of pipe installed in a 10 hour day
got alot of books homi, i dont see christopher brysons, "the flo. ride dee. sep. shun" in there, go get it!