How to diagnose a Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor - 2005 Pontiac G6
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2016
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This is a great vid for people that want to tell a mechanic what’s wrong with the vehicle when they take it in.
Excellent video. I have a 2005 Grand Prix with a erratic on/off cooling fan.
Excellent detail video..great job
That was helpful thank you
good morning I have an 1996 mercury grand marquis gs and it's making a whole lot of squeaking noise when I drive and I was told that it was the lower Control arm bushing but I brought the energy suspension and I want to put those on my car and it's suppose to make my car drive better. so do you do that kind of work? and if I change all the bushings on the car would it ride like a new car
You forgot to mention bleeding the coolant system. Removing air.
I dont think the g6 have the bleeder screw. Well at least the 3.9 dont.
Very well done
Thanks! really helpful.
Would this sensor cause the air conditioner to not work? That's what my 2010 Cobalt is doing, engine light on and info window for engine temp read - - - F. Should be between 190 cold and 220 hot. Had this happen 2 yrs. ago and mechanic changed the thermostat, it was good for about 5 miles and air quit again. So he replaced the ECT after I asked him if it had a sensor or something. Worked for about a year and he had no time to look at it. So I drove it like that for about 3 wks and the light went off temp was good again, and air worked. Now it is doing the same thing this year. Is it possible the sensor is faulty?
I have a 1999 Ford f350 V10 with codes po118 po117 at same time replaced wiring and oem coolant sensor and 2 pcms voltage good wiring is perfect any idea's
What would be the symptoms of a bad ECT on this motor?
My car starts cold no problem, but after I've driven it / it warms up I have to press down the gas pedal a lot to get it to start. Could this be caused by a faulty ECT Sensor? Thanks
So is p0116 the same thing or different?
What should the resistance be when checking the temp sensor itself?
everything but showing where the damn sensor is.
+certified30 Thank you for your inquiry. We suggest to consult with a service manual to find the location of the sensor on your vehicle or give us a call at 800-544-4124 we are open 7 days a week 6am - 6pm (PST) Thank you!
Great video!
I got the thermostat changed on my car because I hose had went bad I replaced a hose it was the top radiator hose and then it still red hot thermostat was definitely bad but now I have no heat in my car at the 05 Pontiac aztek I had heat in it before the thermostat change perfect it don't run but 4 minutes five tops and it says it's reading very hot any suggestions please I bought this car from a used car lot over a month ago I've had problems with it ever since I don't even have my title yet it's been a real headache but that's the only way I have to go can you please help suggest
Did you bleed the air out the system? Im not to familiar with the aztek but if it have a 3.4 engine then you need to bleed the air out. It a bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing. Open this bleeder screw anytime you add coolant to radiator. Put some old rags or paper towels under the screw cause coolant will leak out. Once your adding coolant to your radiator keep an eye on the open bleeder. When coolant start coming out like a stream air should be out of the system. Close bleeder screw. Let run car an to normal operation. If temp go past the normal operation. Cut car off. You gone have to wait till car is cool again. Then once cool off. Open radiator make sure coolant aint low. If it is low add more coolant after you open bleeder again. If coolant is full in radiator put radiator cap back on an then open bleeder screw an crank car up. Coolant should stream out that hole again. Close the bleeder screw. Also not take bleeder screw all the way out it just need to turn a few tines to open up. Losing that bleeder screw is a pain in the ass. Trust me you dont want to lose that other wise you gone have to buy a thermostat housing again or go to pull a part an take a screw out of s wrecked 3.4 housing. If it still overheats after that then you got other stuff going on.
What OBDII scanner are you using? Thanks
+Engineerboy 100
Thank you for your inquiry. The scan tool that was
used in the video is a INNOVA PRO 31603. Here is the link to check out the
features and functions of the 31603: pro.innova.com/Product/FullDetail/f968c286-07ab-46b7-bfd5-bae40673742e
great
Love you show but you need to put the camera down there so we can see what you’re doing what’s going on with that
YEAH!
I have a 2006 Pontiac g6 is this the same fix? can you let me know please. And thank you!
[scan, test, fix, and finally reset.]
If I test the voltage of the connector, and it doesn't read 5 volts, where should I begin looking?
+xJustxJordanx
Thank you for your inquiry. We do not have service manuals
for your vehicle to give you repair advice. We suggest referring to a service
manual for the issues you are having with your sensor on the vehicle.
That's a master technician should be.
agreed!
smart guy. Thanks
What number do you want to see when you’re doing a live data for the ECT?
5v
can that ever make an engine run lean?
I did that same exact thing but I have no code no more but the wrench on the dash illuminates when it wants to, plus it keep saying low coolant on radio... I drove the car out of town a few times and it drives great but it just burns a lot of gas but I think the car is fine I unplugged battery for 30mins still no luck and erased the code still no luck... but car drives great
+Gary Goodman Thank you for your inquiry. We suggest to consult with a service manual to find the proper steps to fix the issue you are having with your vehicle.
did you ever find out the issue?
nope
ima go ahead and change mine. I drive alot and all that gas that goes to waste is costing me big money
Shouldn't the test been shown indicating the software did not detect any codes after the replacement.
You definitely need to show what’s going on. All we can see is you leaning into the engine. It’s very well done tutorial but we need better camera angles
Thank you for the suggestion! We'll definitely do this in our next go around.
What does it mean "open loop" on a sensor? Does that mean it dont work? Let me know anyone thanks
I'm sure you figured this out by now, but just in case... The ohm meter sends a signal out of your test leads on the red lead. It goes through the sensor, if the sensor is good, and comes back to your meter on the black lead. "OL" or Open Loop (also called Open Line) on your meter means that the sensor has burned out. Another way to say this is that the circuit inside the sensor is no longer connected inside the sensor.The circuit inside the sensor has "opened" and is bad, so your sensor needs to be replaced. Hope this helps...
I forgot to mention... if the sensor is good, the signal from the red lead of your meter will go through the sensor and return to your meter on the black lead and it will show some type of ohmic value on your meter. In the video I think he got something like 1.950 Ohms... or about 2 ohms. That was normal for a new sensor. A reading significantly higher than that could be a bad sensor also, that just hasn't burned all the way out yet...
My ect is at 160