,что я вижу-сломаный кронштейн,зачистка и разделка кромок не произведена,пайка каким-то газом(который был в балоне),присадка-какой был электрод тем и тыкал,в конце на прочность надо было молотком постучать что бы проверить на прочность изделие,а так можно было и суперклеем намазать.
Стальным электродом он убирал из ванны окислы, а потом в очищенный стык добавлял алюминиевую присадку. Одно "но" - попадание стали в алюминий категорически неприемлемо, поскольку они непримиримые враги.
Был небольшой опыт сваривания алюминия газовой горелкой, по моим субъективным наблюдениям в процессе сварки надо следить за тем чтобы не перегреть сильно металл, под оксидной плёнкой не видно когда металл становиться жидким и в один момент выпадает каплей, поэтому я старался разрушать оксидную пленку самой присадочной проволокой.
Варю аллюминий более 10 лет. Прежде всего нужно оксидную пленку счистить(т.к.температура пленки 2050°, а t пл.ал.560° ) . И цвет он в общем не меняет при сварке.
Some of the comments are really funny. I’m a welder made a good living being able to weld, most of the comments are made by people who have eye problems. The man just did what most people commenting never have done and he’s not only videoing for you, he’s making a living doing it. It’s better to learn and be great full for his talent. I’ve watched this guy machine and weld stuff for a while now he’s actually doing what most people can not do, and never says a word. That’s talent.
Watched a old man 60 yrs ago weld broken aluminum housings together with aluminum rod and some kind of flux. He said it was all in knowing when the aluminum was about to fall apart from the heat. I think it is all about (like most things) experience ! Just do it till you get good at doing it.
I am sorry, but most of the people posting any welding repairs don't bother to clean the surfaces to be welded. Welding over dirt, rust or other crap only weakens the repair. You should also get a better looking weld as well as stronger. Just my seniors opinion.
Довел до начала плавления, перемешал железкой, добавил алюминия. Но окислы остались в трещине. Они не будут держать Это как сварка пластика паяльником. На вид целое, а прочности нет.
ещё в середине 70 годов меня этому способу научил опытный сварщик кореец Константин Бенгеровичь Шин, царство ему небесноеи вечная память. секрет весь в том, что пламя настраивается сильно науглераживающее и оксидной плёнки не получается. таким способом варили пробитые поддоны на "Москвичах", пробитые картера, клапанные крышки и лобовинны на тракторах Т-40 и " Беларусь". швы прокрашиали бензостойкой краской НЦ-40 и техника работала. ни чего хитрого в этом нет.
Neat technique, and valuable for something that's ornamental or cosmetic only, but any part that's under any kind of real load is going to fail again at the original break pretty fast. No preheat, no V groove, no cleaning, 1mm penetration at best and then grinding down the bead, which was the main added strength doesn't bode well for it lasting long.
You make very good points, it makes no sense to weld something up and then grind the weld away. Veeing it out is the only way to go. He did build up the casting on the back side which will add some strength.
He clearly shows the v groove he is making with the stick rod then filling with his own cast aluminium rod, and no preheat? What the f*ck do you think the oxy torch is doing, you might need to wear glasses if you can't understand simple things then you leave silly comments
As many others have pointed out this repair is 100% cosmetic. With no penetration there's none of the original strength and you basically put a thin layer of aluminum around the damaged part like a Band-Aid! From my experience brazing was much more like soldering than welding. Possibly if some pins were placed between the two parts and a groove ground all the way around the seam was filled, you might be able to make something sturdy enough. This was clearly cast aluminum, and the only real repair for that is recasting
at soldering and brazing you don't melt base metal, but only just adding material. in this video he starts by melting the base metal and then he sturs the base metal around the crack (like some people do at plastic welding) than he started adding the adding material to a puddle he made with the oxy/acetylene torch. so he is welding, but this is oldschool of doing it, from before the ac/dc welding machines. also, welded alu is usually much better quality material then most of alu casts. as there is more bubbling in cast material and some of the bubbles can even contain oils from casting or other impurities.
My thoughts exactly that this is cast aluminium, besides the actual repair two things that will cause future failure. The cooling process, water that creates grain issues. Secondly the whole piece should have been annealed allowing grain alignment. That said, Then you do what you to with what you got!
@@desmondmclinden9878 If you weld ALU you never get the same Material strength you had before the weld , you loose 30 % of the initial strength . And most channels here on RUclips declare Alu Brazing/ soldering as welding, one important point is ALu soldering is not certified for critical parts sometimes even repaired parts by Welding like Motorcycle frames , Alu pull a lot after welding so everything is out off Alignment , oh did I mention the loss of strength .
Для начала нужно деталь обработать специальной пастой (место сварки) для удаления окисла алюминия, потом можно, хоть паять, хоть варить. После этого св. шов необходимо тщательно вымыть. Иначе он со временем разрушиться. Без пасты, даже перемешивая св.ванну, прочности не будет.
Есть такие электроды для люминия ... Купил, думал любую люмяшку будет варить..... А вот и нет, спросил у продавца, он сказал что профиля которые есть у них, их можно сварить....
@@borisneufeld6297 во-первых, эти электроды очень гигроскопичные ( впитывают влагу ), поэтому перед сваркой их необходимо прогревать при 500 град. Цельсия. Иначе сильно трещат, и качество сварки плохое. Варить ими можно металл 3 мм и больше. И то не все сплавы.
Great idea. Non oxidizing flame of oxy-acetylene welder (lesser O2 mix) will create CO shielding to prevent oxidation by air, as replacement to argon gas. Inverted welding stick wire is used to stir molten puddle under oxide layer. Cohesion between molten puddles will push residue of oxides from the joints out.
Rubbish. Sure, the result is not terribly pretty, but that's a perfectly viable weld. It is extremely hard to do, you use a carburising flame in order not to oxidise the base metal, the 6013 rod (any bit of clean steel would do) is used to break the existing oxide layer and make the weld happen, effectively you "stir" the puddle, and then extra filler is added on top. This is how aluminium was welded before the invention of pulsed tig etc. I was expecting some sort of crappy fake video, but it's not. The guy doing this is pretty good.
@@wibblywobblyidiotvision Thank You for this comment. I'm a mechanic, wondering how this strange welding should work (I never ever thought it could be possible). The removing of the oxidised surface by a welding electrode in fire could be the solution. I'll test it soon.
There used to be an old dutch guy where I worked years ago who was an expert at this He used a brass rod sharpened to a point to poke at the aluminium to test for the right temperature and then used an aluminium filler rod with flux to make the weld He used to fix aluminium ladders this way so it was indeed strong and structural The skill is cleanliness and getting the base metal at the critical temperature he told me
Many years ago I had my aluminum Harley crankcase gas welded at a truck repair shop. The fellow who did it was very skilled and did a beautiful job. This was before Heliarc (later TIG) became common in workshops. The only difficulty in aluminum gas welding is being able to see the puddle as it is quite bright.
I also used this method 2 yrs ago when an Isuzu giga truck hood hinges were broken and still in good shape until now.. I just welded the aluminium alloy with oxy/acetylene and with a steel rod to mix the alloy well and remove the impurities.
Ты ж не сварил ее. Просто поверху наговнякал. Из глины сделай для нее ложе. Просто сунь в глину. Когда высохнет - вынь и разделай кромку. После - вари.
Aluminyum kaynak veya lehim yapıldığında kesinlikle kaynak dikişi taşlama çarkkama yapılmaz eğer yapılırsa bu videoda olduğu gibi kaynak zayıflar ve kırılma olasılığı yüksek olur sade fırça ile temizlenir kolay gelsin ustalar
I’m not saying this isn’t working it clearly is but I doubt the bracket has any where near it’s original strength ,this looks like a pillion footrest casting usually made from crap alloy by the manufacturer .we used to weld alloy castings with oxy acetylene and flux coated rods ,many years ago, I would say this is ok if your going to sell the vehicle on and you do not have a problem with the potential risk you are causing to others ,personally I would like to see a new bracket
IT does of course depend on the original alloy used, but assuming it's decent aluminium. I have welded numerous aluminium part with success but he doesn't even grind out a weld channel to fill. Can't see there being much strength there at all.
Перед пайкой нужно очистиь поверхности от окислов . Паять с применением буры и латуни . Второй метод электросваркой применяя аллюминевые электроды . Для качественной сварки паять нужно все таки аргоном с разделкой кромок .
been welding for years, you must clean, groove cut and prep the repair area very well in order to get good flow out/penetration on the repair, especially when it's cast aluminum, and this looks like it didn't have good penetration...the weld just sat on the surface of the part... I had a teacher who would stress test everything after we did our welding,,,and most failed...due to lack of prep. With today's technology & abundance of affordable TIG welders that are on the market, there's really no excuse not to buy the proper equipment to get the job done right! Oxy acetylene torch welding has pretty much gone the way of the rotary dial phone.
@@ДмитрийГородец-н9м Верить или не верить ваше дело. Только алюминиевые электроды лежат у меня в гараже. Сваривал кпп на автомобиле. Нормально получилось, также как и аргоном.
@@ХерлокШолмс-т7ч мы разобрались: качество шва -не важно, тип тока - не важен, все сварщики - нихрена не понимают шо делают... Неужели ЕГЭ так сильно поднасрал стране?
Ошибка в рассуждениях: как можно окислительным пламенем при избытке кислорода не окислить и не пережечь металл? Пламя должно быть науглероживающим при небольшом избытке ацетилена (пропана).
Por la poca experiencia que tengo, en la planta de INFRA hace Tiempo la visité en Guadalajara para pedir asesoría de como manejar la soldadura de aluminio que ellos vendían. Es calentar la parte a soldar y checar la temperatura con los jises especiales para hacerlo y aplicar la soldadura cuando está la temperatura correcta. Soldé un rín de aluminio y quedó perfecto y nunca se reventó. No recuerdo la temperatura a que preparé la pieza pero pueden investigar. Fué en Guadalajara.
Электроды ОЗА Электроды по алюминию изготовлены из стального стержня с соляной обмазкой. Выпускаются диаметром 4, 5 и 6 мм. Марка подойдет для сваривания заготовок из чистого алюминия и его сплавов. Ограничение по толщине деталей - от 3 мм до 16 мм. Ток сваривания - постоянный, с обратной полярностью. Нужен предварительный подогрев свариваемых торцов до 250°С. Подготовительная зачистка кромок обязательна.
I can't see there being much in the way of good weld penetration there. Why not; First tack it in a few places, then grind out channels along the break then fill with weld? Much stronger. Also, I hope you wore a respirator while grinding aluminium...bad stuff aluminium dust.
Как правильно варить эту деталь? Сделать слепок и лить в слепок сталь... На крайний случай - сварить из толстостенных труб такую деталь и забыть про аргон на всю жизнь
Aluminum has essentially got two melting points, the layer of oxide on the outer and the more pure metal internally, this meaning that by the time the oxidized layer becomes molten there's every possibility that the core is already molten so when feeding your filler rod it could become a full thickness weld, but having said that a bit of knowledge on prepping wouldn't go a miss.
Склеить надо было и сделать форму Потом все это переплавить и заново отлить. Думаю прочность будет выше чем у получившегося муляжа. На худой конец спаять припоем по аллюминию с предварительной обработкой кромок. Шов от припоя прочнее основного металла.
bravo a vous; je ne pensais pas que cela pouvait se faire comme ça.C'est bien une tige d'aluminium que vous utilisez apres l'electrade de soudure a l'arc?Encore bravo.
I guess that is bracing. As far I know in order to get weld two pieces of metal the heat most reach the melting point of both metals plus the third one the adding metal. I am not sure it this guy got it.
@@MomodouSemegaJanneh Firstly it needs to totally clean then correctly prepared before welding in an oxygen free environment. Take a few basic classes in welding.
Back in 1978 The US Army taught me and other enlistees in a Proving Ground base, the procedures and practices of various welding processes. In order to complete the Annex, the last process was oxyacetelene welding alumimnum. And the last test was welding a single "v" groove butt weld in the flat position with 30 degree included angle, I believe. The aluminum coupons were aproximately 10" long. This was the hardest to do succesfully because aluminum does not change color when it heats up like mild steel and stainless would when welding with the GTAW, GMAW, SMAW, FLUX_CORE, processes, etc. When you heat it up, at a certain point, the puddle drops and its off to the races. Of all the other processess taught, this was by far the trickiest. That being said; is this weldment fix legit? I would say, not knowing all the other factors relative to this case I would say it may or it may not. Cleaning aluminum is very important to the quality of the outcome for both cosmetic and function. And in this case not much cleaning other than perhaps wiping seems to have been the case. I have to give it to this dude for putting out this video. If for no other reason than to learn how judgemental people who think they know, are. In the video authors case this may be all he/she had to work with. So, if it worked, more power to him/her. Aluminum welding with oxyacetelene is a thing, really. It is interesting he/she used a 6013 SMAW rod to blend or mix the crack. Then reinforced the work by overlaying aluminum, thereby adding penetration in reverse. I thought it was cool. But what do I know.
That Welding rod stated 6013. 6013 is a Steel Rod. Steel and Aluminum doesn't mix two different Metal's. My opinion the only way to weld Aluminum is Heli arc. Both pieces must be completely Clean.
@@jetfulvio A Stainless Steel Brush will do the same thing. Adding impurities into Aluminum doesn't work For Me. You are the First I scene to do this type of welding. Aluminum is Very hard to weld because of contamination. There is oxide in the Metal that causes the metal hard to weld. Welding with AC Heil-Arc is the only way with a High Frequency unit. Braising flame has a pluting Flame.
@@waymonblevins6939 @Waymon Blevins you will be surprised because with oxyweld you can weld really weld old dirt and oil crankcase (i welded old vespas crankase i let you imagine) and have no porosity in the weld , also the oxide layer is kinda inhibited with a rich flame and you have to scratch the surface to understand the melting point of the alluminium which is lower than the oxide temperature
@@jetfulvio What Gas are You using? What Aluminium Filler Rod are You using 4043 or 6061. The 6013 is an AC current Rod. That is not an DC Rod. I understand the heat burns the oil and grease but You still have to clean the Area you are welding.
Watched a couple of your videos and subscribed, great info and I learnt a lot even though I am a welder by trade, ignore the Americans with there silly comments
I'm thinking about trying this for my Yamaha Raider's passenger peg mount that broke in half from a accident. My biggest concern is the strength after trying especially seeing it's double the thickness of the one in this video and my welding experience is almost nonexistent. But replacing it might be extremely difficult because replacement parts seem to be difficult to locate and therefore expensive if you do. Any ideas on the cost a professional welder would roughly charge. Thanks
40-200 dollars depending who you know and where you go. they are hard to find sometimes and are very busy. getting the right gear to diy usually pays for itself the first project if not the next few projects. imagine all the things you can do with an oxygen acetylene torch, an arc mig tig welder etc.....
Pretty cool to know pulling the oxide layer off works if you have to do it. It would probably work with dc tig too, obviously you could only fusion weld it. The applications seem very limited.
Η συγκεκριμένη κόλληση νομίζω ότι έχει "ρίζα" αφού δεν προηγήθηκε ούτε σωστός καθαρισμός ούτε τρόχισμα στις ακμές στο σημείο σπασίματος... Μια νέα πρόσκρουση μπορεί να το ξανασπάσει!!!
Việc này gọi là hàn nhôm bằng gió đá (Oxy and Acetylene). Với cả 1 cái máy không rã ra,hàn không được,phải dùng Tig. Hàn nhôm bloc máy có nhớt,không chảy nhớt mới giỏi!
Sempre dou like, mas não achei bom o trabalho. É importante descontaminar a área neste caso nem tanto, mas abrir onde quebrou em v existem vários termos pra isso aqui. Se é seguro e assim está bom para seu mercado tudo bem. Mas para o meu não seria aceito. Mas isso depende como disse das circunstâncias, cultura, quanto se paga etc. Contudo poderia melhorar, sempre podemos. Não vou negativar pra te ajudar e melhorar o canal. 👎👍💪🏾🙋🏽♂️
,что я вижу-сломаный кронштейн,зачистка и разделка кромок не произведена,пайка каким-то газом(который был в балоне),присадка-какой был электрод тем и тыкал,в конце на прочность надо было молотком постучать что бы проверить на прочность изделие,а так можно было и суперклеем намазать.
Тож баба соплями склеила. Шо неясно.
После зачистки видна трещина!
Стальным электродом он убирал из ванны окислы, а потом в очищенный стык добавлял алюминиевую присадку. Одно "но" - попадание стали в алюминий категорически неприемлемо, поскольку они непримиримые враги.
Был небольшой опыт сваривания алюминия газовой горелкой, по моим субъективным наблюдениям в процессе сварки надо следить за тем чтобы не перегреть сильно металл, под оксидной плёнкой не видно когда металл становиться жидким и в один момент выпадает каплей, поэтому я старался разрушать оксидную пленку самой присадочной проволокой.
Варю аллюминий более 10 лет.
Прежде всего нужно оксидную пленку счистить(т.к.температура пленки 2050°, а t пл.ал.560° ) .
И цвет он в общем не меняет при сварке.
Some of the comments are really funny. I’m a welder made a good living being able to weld, most of the comments are made by people who have eye problems. The man just did what most people commenting never have done and he’s not only videoing for you, he’s making a living doing it. It’s better to learn and be great full for his talent. I’ve watched this guy machine and weld stuff for a while now he’s actually doing what most people can not do, and never says a word. That’s talent.
S sir and he gave the strength in inner side
Traduire en français
Agreed with u sir..this guy really know whats hes doing.he had a good skill
May God bless you sir
Watched a old man 60 yrs ago weld broken aluminum housings together with aluminum rod and some kind of flux.
He said it was all in knowing when the aluminum was about to fall apart from the heat.
I think it is all about (like most things) experience ! Just do it till you get good at doing it.
I am sorry, but most of the people posting any welding repairs don't bother to clean the surfaces to be welded. Welding over dirt, rust or other crap only weakens the repair. You should also get a better looking weld as well as stronger.
Just my seniors opinion.
. . . thank you
You said it all George. The greatest source of knowledge is EXPERIENCE.
Довел до начала плавления, перемешал железкой, добавил алюминия. Но окислы остались в трещине. Они не будут держать
Это как сварка пластика паяльником. На вид целое, а прочности нет.
Меня аж передегнуло когда он всю эту хрень в воде остужал..
Как сварить алюминий без аргона. Да никак блин
Мне интересно а сплав магния можно так сварить
@@Xardas00129 нет. Его никак нельзя варить. Только хорошо нагреешь , он начинает сам гореть
@@АлександрАлександрович-в3и алюминию по фиг.
ещё в середине 70 годов меня этому способу научил опытный сварщик кореец Константин Бенгеровичь Шин, царство ему небесноеи вечная память. секрет весь в том, что пламя настраивается сильно науглераживающее и оксидной плёнки не получается. таким способом варили пробитые поддоны на "Москвичах", пробитые картера, клапанные крышки и лобовинны на тракторах Т-40 и " Беларусь". швы прокрашиали бензостойкой краской НЦ-40 и техника работала. ни чего хитрого в этом нет.
Nghe có lý !
Neat technique, and valuable for something that's ornamental or cosmetic only, but any part that's under any kind of real load is going to fail again at the original break pretty fast. No preheat, no V groove, no cleaning, 1mm penetration at best and then grinding down the bead, which was the main added strength doesn't bode well for it lasting long.
My Dad welded Blimp aluminum air frames for Goodyear at the beginning of WWii . All he HAD was an acetylene torch !!!!!!!!
This is absolute garbage
You make very good points, it makes no sense to weld something up and then grind the weld away. Veeing it out is the only way to go. He did build up the casting on the back side which will add some strength.
He clearly shows the v groove he is making with the stick rod then filling with his own cast aluminium rod, and no preheat? What the f*ck do you think the oxy torch is doing, you might need to wear glasses if you can't understand simple things then you leave silly comments
Corecta remarca Trebuie craituit si cu sirma de aluminiu ados Asta nu vatine nici de la mar la par
Именно такую халтуру я переваривал вчера, все в микротрещинах пришлось вырезать полностью и нормально АРГОНОМ сврить
As many others have pointed out this repair is 100% cosmetic. With no penetration there's none of the original strength and you basically put a thin layer of aluminum around the damaged part like a Band-Aid! From my experience brazing was much more like soldering than welding. Possibly if some pins were placed between the two parts and a groove ground all the way around the seam was filled, you might be able to make something sturdy enough. This was clearly cast aluminum, and the only real repair for that is recasting
Incorrect.
correto a peça continua quebrada apenas revestida
at soldering and brazing you don't melt base metal, but only just adding material. in this video he starts by melting the base metal and then he sturs the base metal around the crack (like some people do at plastic welding) than he started adding the adding material to a puddle he made with the oxy/acetylene torch. so he is welding, but this is oldschool of doing it, from before the ac/dc welding machines. also, welded alu is usually much better quality material then most of alu casts. as there is more bubbling in cast material and some of the bubbles can even contain oils from casting or other impurities.
My thoughts exactly that this is cast aluminium, besides the actual repair two things that will cause future failure. The cooling process, water that creates grain issues. Secondly the whole piece should have been annealed allowing grain alignment. That said, Then you do what you to with what you got!
@@desmondmclinden9878 If you weld ALU you never get the same Material strength you had before the weld , you loose 30 % of the initial strength . And most channels here on RUclips declare Alu Brazing/ soldering as welding, one important point is ALu soldering is not certified for critical parts sometimes even repaired parts by Welding like Motorcycle frames , Alu pull a lot after welding so everything is out off Alignment , oh did I mention the loss of strength .
Для начала нужно деталь обработать специальной пастой (место сварки) для удаления окисла алюминия, потом можно, хоть паять, хоть варить. После этого св. шов необходимо тщательно вымыть. Иначе он со временем разрушиться. Без пасты, даже перемешивая св.ванну, прочности не будет.
им насрать, там повело так, что не встанет)
какая паста? в масле корд-щёткой пошкрябать и в мангал ( там кислорода мало-мало) . и в мангале и варить :))) только нормальные струбцины нужны.
Он использует электрод в ванне для снятия этой пленки, тупо царапая ее и перемешивая.
Есть такие электроды для люминия ... Купил, думал любую люмяшку будет варить..... А вот и нет, спросил у продавца, он сказал что профиля которые есть у них, их можно сварить....
@@borisneufeld6297 во-первых, эти электроды очень гигроскопичные ( впитывают влагу ), поэтому перед сваркой их необходимо прогревать при 500 град. Цельсия. Иначе сильно трещат, и качество сварки плохое. Варить ими можно металл 3 мм и больше. И то не все сплавы.
я думаю он смог бы показать, как сварил берёзу с чугуном, ну или сопли с медью
😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀👋👋👋👋👋👋👋
Great idea. Non oxidizing flame of oxy-acetylene welder (lesser O2 mix) will create CO shielding to prevent oxidation by air, as replacement to argon gas. Inverted welding stick wire is used to stir molten puddle under oxide layer. Cohesion between molten puddles will push residue of oxides from the joints out.
Glue the parts together, cover the piece with sand ... and then cast a new piece. That would be way more reliable and stronger
Rubbish. Sure, the result is not terribly pretty, but that's a perfectly viable weld. It is extremely hard to do, you use a carburising flame in order not to oxidise the base metal, the 6013 rod (any bit of clean steel would do) is used to break the existing oxide layer and make the weld happen, effectively you "stir" the puddle, and then extra filler is added on top.
This is how aluminium was welded before the invention of pulsed tig etc. I was expecting some sort of crappy fake video, but it's not. The guy doing this is pretty good.
@@wibblywobblyidiotvision Thank You for this comment. I'm a mechanic, wondering how this strange welding should work (I never ever thought it could be possible). The removing of the oxidised surface by a welding electrode in fire could be the solution. I'll test it soon.
LO TUYO.... EXCELENTE, OPINO IGUAL.... SIN ARENA Y SIN GOLPES.... TAMPOCO TIENE UN BUEN MECANIZADO PARA QUE EL MATERIAL LLEGUE A LO PROFUNDO....
What tip is he using? It looks like it is clogged.
@@autismisnotacrime8007 it sure is, I am a jeweler, worked with torches all my live never seen a split flame.
Заварить можно, тоесть слепить, но не как сварить, если узел ответственный, и несёт нагрузку, то держать не будет
думаю 250 полуляхов из 250 возможных! :-))
There used to be an old dutch guy where I worked years ago who was an expert at this
He used a brass rod sharpened to a point to poke at the aluminium to test for the right temperature and then used an aluminium filler rod with flux to make the weld
He used to fix aluminium ladders this way so it was indeed strong and structural The skill is cleanliness and getting the base metal at the critical temperature he told me
I have had good luck using Oxy-Hydrogen torch and an infrared-imaging system. Then it gets to be more similar to Oxy-Acetylene welding of steel.
I use to gas weld aluminum castings with a blue Flux and a aluminum filler rod in the early 70's, at the Crown Cork and Seal Welding Shop
Many years ago I had my aluminum Harley crankcase gas welded at a truck repair shop. The fellow who did it was very skilled and did a beautiful job. This was before Heliarc (later TIG) became common in workshops. The only difficulty in aluminum gas welding is being able to see the puddle as it is quite bright.
I had to check my calendar to make sure it isn't April 1st.
Someday I want to build my own custom chopper bike. I watch a lot of welding technic skills to get some ideas. Wish me luck.
I also used this method 2 yrs ago when an Isuzu giga truck hood hinges were broken and still in good shape until now.. I just welded the aluminium alloy with oxy/acetylene and with a steel rod to mix the alloy well and remove the impurities.
Bullshit
let me guess 6013 steel rod?
a great idea, many people will be able to get the job done because of what you share
Not this one. This one is garbage.
I weld aluminum everyday. This is misleading.
No strength on this weld
Exactly right if you’ve ever welded Aluminum you know this is wrong and weak on so many levels!
つなぎ目を隠しただけですね、力がかかるとすぐにとれますよね!
ロウ付けですね。力のかからない部品ならアリな修復方法ですが・・・
Nggak takut distorsi atau crack om pas panas langsung disiram air ?
Ты ж не сварил ее. Просто поверху наговнякал.
Из глины сделай для нее ложе. Просто сунь в глину. Когда высохнет - вынь и разделай кромку. После - вари.
после такой сварки, можно смело сдать в металлом!!!!
Да нет, нормально, ты просто не в теме.
Stir welding and homemade aluminum rod. Interesting
Hola amigo desde Argentina te felicito por las ideas y los aportes que haces seguí adelante Díos te bendiga
Gracias señor, que siempre esté sano, saludos desde Indonesia. 🙏
muy bien por ese argentino ...
What electrode did you use
Aluminyum kaynak veya lehim yapıldığında kesinlikle kaynak dikişi taşlama çarkkama yapılmaz eğer yapılırsa bu videoda olduğu gibi kaynak zayıflar ve kırılma olasılığı yüksek olur sade fırça ile temizlenir kolay gelsin ustalar
A little prep goes a long way..clean it , tack it, grind it then preheat and weld. 1 good tap and your will brake and ya back where you started
I’m not saying this isn’t working it clearly is but I doubt the bracket has any where near it’s original strength ,this looks like a pillion footrest casting usually made from crap alloy by the manufacturer .we used to weld alloy castings with oxy acetylene and flux coated rods ,many years ago, I would say this is ok if your going to sell the vehicle on and you do not have a problem with the potential risk you are causing to others ,personally I would like to see a new bracket
IT does of course depend on the original alloy used, but assuming it's decent aluminium. I have welded numerous aluminium part with success but he doesn't even grind out a weld channel to fill. Can't see there being much strength there at all.
Перед пайкой нужно очистиь поверхности от окислов . Паять с применением буры и латуни . Второй метод электросваркой применяя аллюминевые электроды . Для качественной сварки паять нужно все таки аргоном с разделкой кромок .
паять алюминий латунью?
been welding for years, you must clean, groove cut and prep the repair area very well in order to get good flow out/penetration on the repair, especially when it's cast aluminum, and this looks like it didn't have good penetration...the weld just sat on the surface of the part...
I had a teacher who would stress test everything after we did our welding,,,and most failed...due to lack of prep.
With today's technology & abundance of affordable TIG welders that are on the market, there's really no excuse not to buy the proper equipment to get the job done right!
Oxy acetylene torch welding has pretty much gone the way of the rotary dial phone.
В продаже есть алюминиевые электроды. Обычной сваркой хорошо варится дюраль, алюминий.
Если переменным током, то верю.
@@ДмитрийГородец-н9м Верить или не верить ваше дело. Только алюминиевые электроды лежат у меня в гараже. Сваривал кпп на автомобиле. Нормально получилось, также как и аргоном.
И деревянные электроды, чтоб дерево варить.
@@ХерлокШолмс-т7ч мы разобрались: качество шва -не важно, тип тока - не важен, все сварщики - нихрена не понимают шо делают... Неужели ЕГЭ так сильно поднасрал стране?
@@ХерлокШолмс-т7ч Деревянные не видел. А алюминиевые свободно лежат в продаже.
Looks neat when you grind all the weld off again, but I doubt it will last more than a short fall.
А так то норм 👍👍👍 из безвыходного положения годно . Главное окисляющее пламя на горелки чтоб не переЖечь металл , как и при сварке нержавейки .
Ошибка в рассуждениях: как можно окислительным пламенем при избытке кислорода не окислить и не пережечь металл? Пламя должно быть науглероживающим при небольшом избытке ацетилена (пропана).
@@NikolaiBarchan точно там же больше кислорода в окислительном пламени .
Nice work.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care.
Por la poca experiencia que tengo, en la planta de INFRA hace Tiempo la visité en Guadalajara para pedir asesoría de como manejar la soldadura de aluminio que ellos vendían. Es calentar la parte a soldar y checar la temperatura con los jises especiales para hacerlo y aplicar la soldadura cuando está la temperatura correcta. Soldé un rín de aluminio y quedó perfecto y nunca se reventó. No recuerdo la temperatura a que preparé la pieza pero pueden investigar. Fué en Guadalajara.
Думаю на металлоприёмке оценят качество алюминия.
I can’t tell if you are melting the base metals or just adding filler. So are you brazing or welding?
Электроды ОЗА
Электроды по алюминию изготовлены из стального стержня с соляной обмазкой. Выпускаются диаметром 4, 5 и 6 мм. Марка подойдет для сваривания заготовок из чистого алюминия и его сплавов. Ограничение по толщине деталей - от 3 мм до 16 мм. Ток сваривания - постоянный, с обратной полярностью. Нужен предварительный подогрев свариваемых торцов до 250°С. Подготовительная зачистка кромок обязательна.
I can't see there being much in the way of good weld penetration there. Why not; First tack it in a few places, then grind out channels along the break then fill with weld? Much stronger. Also, I hope you wore a respirator while grinding aluminium...bad stuff aluminium dust.
Алюминий окисляется на воздухе,заполнить не получится без активной среды (аргона)
Kawat las nya pke yg jenis aluminum apa ya om, gampang leleh gtu, disini pake Argon, pngen belajar pke asitelin
bikin sendiri bang dari bekas kampas rem
@@KULITEHNIK siap om, Argon klo abis lama dateng, klo bsa pke asitelin kan jdi efisien, suwun
Как правильно варить эту деталь? Сделать слепок и лить в слепок сталь... На крайний случай - сварить из толстостенных труб такую деталь и забыть про аргон на всю жизнь
Ótimo trabalho 👏 sucesso aí irmão 🤜🤛
Buen trabajo, impecable, felicitaciones !
🇨🇱
una nota di merito ,Bravisssimissssimo.
Aluminum has essentially got two melting points, the layer of oxide on the outer and the more pure metal internally, this meaning that by the time the oxidized layer becomes molten there's every possibility that the core is already molten so when feeding your filler rod it could become a full thickness weld, but having said that a bit of knowledge on prepping wouldn't go a miss.
Very interesting I'm trying to get understand and hopefully be a good aluminum welder using propane
Склеить надо было и сделать форму
Потом все это переплавить и заново отлить. Думаю прочность будет выше чем у получившегося муляжа.
На худой конец спаять припоем по аллюминию с предварительной обработкой кромок. Шов от припоя
прочнее основного металла.
Are we running out of argon now ? I suppose it'll do in a pinch for something that is mostly cosmetic.
bravo a vous; je ne pensais pas que cela pouvait se faire comme ça.C'est bien une tige d'aluminium que vous utilisez apres l'electrade de soudure a l'arc?Encore bravo.
How about a video of you riding the bike when the foot peg bracket breaks and you fall off the bike?
It looks surprisingly clean from my house.
Faltou limpar, escarear, pasta e outras preparações, pq senão logo quebra. Soldou superficial, continua aberto dentro da quebradura.
this is how i learnt to weld aluminum, never had a tig for years
Бедный сайлентблок, надо было выпрессовать его перед работой
Не надо- все равно деталь на свалку.
I guess that is bracing. As far I know in order to get weld two pieces of metal the heat most reach the melting point of both metals plus the third one the adding metal. I am not sure it this guy got it.
Another case of “ A little knowledge is Dangerous “.
That repair will last as long as a sneeze
@@arturotoscanini3833
And nowhere as enjoyable!
What would you recommend
@@MomodouSemegaJanneh
Firstly it needs to totally clean then correctly prepared before welding in an oxygen free environment.
Take a few basic classes in welding.
Back in 1978 The US Army taught me and other enlistees in a Proving Ground base, the procedures and practices of various welding processes. In order to complete the Annex, the last process was oxyacetelene welding alumimnum. And the last test was welding a single "v" groove butt weld in the flat position with 30 degree included angle, I believe. The aluminum coupons were aproximately 10" long. This was the hardest to do succesfully because aluminum does not change color when it heats up like mild steel and stainless would when welding with the GTAW, GMAW, SMAW, FLUX_CORE, processes, etc. When you heat it up, at a certain point, the puddle drops and its off to the races. Of all the other processess taught, this was by far the trickiest.
That being said; is this weldment fix legit? I would say, not knowing all the other factors relative to this case I would say it may or it may not.
Cleaning aluminum is very important to the quality of the outcome for both cosmetic and function. And in this case not much cleaning other than perhaps wiping seems to have been the case.
I have to give it to this dude for putting out this video. If for no other reason than to learn how judgemental people who think they know, are.
In the video authors case this may be all he/she had to work with.
So, if it worked, more power to him/her.
Aluminum welding with oxyacetelene is a thing, really.
It is interesting he/she used a 6013 SMAW rod to blend or mix the crack. Then reinforced the work by overlaying aluminum, thereby adding penetration in reverse.
I thought it was cool. But what do I know.
Tengo que soldar una llanta👍👍👌genial tu video
Без аргона можно только присрать, а не приварить
Это просто пайка твёрдым припоем А .Сомневаюсь в механической прочности .
Непровар 😮 ) лопнет при нагрузке 😂
Lokasi nya dmn ya mas saya juga mau ngelas step juga nih
what is the steel welding rods purpose?
That Welding rod stated 6013. 6013 is a Steel Rod. Steel and Aluminum doesn't mix two different Metal's. My opinion the only way to weld Aluminum is Heli arc. Both pieces must be completely Clean.
You need metal rod to remove the oxide layer is not filler material
@@jetfulvio A Stainless Steel Brush will do the same thing. Adding impurities into Aluminum doesn't work For Me. You are the First I scene to do this type of welding. Aluminum is Very hard to weld because of contamination. There is oxide in the Metal that causes the metal hard to weld. Welding with AC Heil-Arc is the only way with a High Frequency unit. Braising flame has a pluting Flame.
@@waymonblevins6939 @Waymon Blevins you will be surprised because with oxyweld you can weld really weld old dirt and oil crankcase (i welded old vespas crankase i let you imagine) and have no porosity in the weld , also the oxide layer is kinda inhibited with a rich flame and you have to scratch the surface to understand the melting point of the alluminium which is lower than the oxide temperature
@@jetfulvio What Gas are You using? What Aluminium Filler Rod are You using 4043 or 6061. The 6013 is an AC current Rod. That is not an DC Rod. I understand the heat burns the oil and grease but You still have to clean the Area you are welding.
@@waymonblevins6939 acetylene and with the tig rod it wasnt really good you have to try with melted alluminium like those guys also did trust me
Watched a couple of your videos and subscribed, great info and I learnt a lot even though I am a welder by trade, ignore the Americans with there silly comments
Super bien fait, bravo
この火口の詰まった状態でガス溶接やってるのが不思議な件
fantastic technical
which gas mixed aluminum welding sir
Question que j'ai pas compris les baguettes elles sont quoi en aluminium ou en quoi tu pourrais me répondre😮
👆👏👏👏muy buen aporte ... gracias
I want to see the inside fracture surface if welded or not.
これは中まで溶接できてないから強度が出ず使えない
一度中間部分を1センチぐらい削り落として、溶接で肉付けしながら繋げて、後から元の形に合うように削ったほうがいい
Молодец, такого качественного сварного шва я еще не видел.
Mantab kang..bengkel dimna ieu ?
Panjalu bos 🙏
What is the first rod that u used
I'm thinking about trying this for my Yamaha Raider's passenger peg mount that broke in half from a accident. My biggest concern is the strength after trying especially seeing it's double the thickness of the one in this video and my welding experience is almost nonexistent. But replacing it might be extremely difficult because replacement parts seem to be difficult to locate and therefore expensive if you do. Any ideas on the cost a professional welder would roughly charge.
Thanks
40-200 dollars depending who you know and where you go. they are hard to find sometimes and are very busy. getting the right gear to diy usually pays for itself the first project if not the next few projects. imagine all the things you can do with an oxygen acetylene torch, an arc mig tig welder etc.....
keren ilmunya mas👍👍👍
на козявках крепче будет держаться!
Love the safety boots
Pretty cool to know pulling the oxide layer off works if you have to do it. It would probably work with dc tig too, obviously you could only fusion weld it. The applications seem very limited.
Dùng ngọn lửa nghèo ôxi và dùng que sắt gạt váng ôxit nhôm ra ngoài ?
is not what welding is fusion
He's using filler rod in later part.
@@topduk He doesn't grind out a weld channel at all. It's all surface weld, no real penetration.
You can add filler in a dc tig weld
Kekuatan nya gmn bg abis di las gitu ,dan biasa nya jasa brp bg
Bravo. Ma qualche spiegazione di cosa stai usando e perché, sarebbe gradita.
Lo más importante para realizar cualquier soldadura es la limpieza cosa que en el vídeo carece de tal limpieza
Been wanting to learn how to seriously weld aluminum with a torch.
But I don't think this is it.
You are correct...this ISN'T it!
Tell me if it wont break in two part at the same place!
Браво мастеру! Критикуют за плохой провар,но можно добавить люменя в толщину стенок сверху,пусть снизу трещина и останется чуток
Люменя у тебя много в бестолковке, а это ни есть хорошо, но живут и с этим, и ты живи. Люмений - это твоё Фсё
Η συγκεκριμένη κόλληση νομίζω ότι έχει "ρίζα" αφού δεν προηγήθηκε ούτε σωστός καθαρισμός ούτε τρόχισμα στις ακμές στο σημείο σπασίματος... Μια νέα πρόσκρουση μπορεί να το ξανασπάσει!!!
потом отнёс в приёмку чермета )))
Brilliant video thank u, 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Keren bang . Sangat bermanfaat ilmu nya
Does it matter i use a red lighter?
Việc này gọi là hàn nhôm bằng gió đá (Oxy and Acetylene).
Với cả 1 cái máy không rã ra,hàn không được,phải dùng Tig.
Hàn nhôm bloc máy có nhớt,không chảy nhớt mới giỏi!
Mantap Bosque, sukses selalu
Hmmm.... Kreatif 👍👍
Sempre dou like, mas não achei bom o trabalho. É importante descontaminar a área neste caso nem tanto, mas abrir onde quebrou em v existem vários termos pra isso aqui. Se é seguro e assim está bom para seu mercado tudo bem. Mas para o meu não seria aceito. Mas isso depende como disse das circunstâncias, cultura, quanto se paga etc. Contudo poderia melhorar, sempre podemos. Não vou negativar pra te ajudar e melhorar o canal. 👎👍💪🏾🙋🏽♂️
Kerja yang sangat bagus 👍👍💪❤️
Well that will hold about a minute...😎 AIN'T IT JUST AIN'T IT.....
I can only imagine the impurities in that weld braze job awesome but I bet it won't last
What you use gas?
sa serai bien de savoir quel est votre electrode