Junker Drag Truck 150 psi Boost
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- After years of beating on the 1995 Dodge Ram Junker Drag Truck, the OEM block says no more! Hot lapping 1500 HP at the sand drags was the final straw for this 300k mile Cummins block.
Power Driven Diesel is a specialty performance shop engaged in the engineering and development of high performance turbo diesel technologies.
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👇PRODUCTS MENTIONED/USED👇
• Compound Kits
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• S472SX-E Turbo
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• Mishimoto Intercooler
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• Fluidampr
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• Predator Lift Pump
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• High Volume Oil Pump
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• High Volume Oil Pickup Tube
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• Wagler Street Fighter Connecting Rods
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• 10 AN Block Oil Drain Fitting
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• Rear Freeze Plug
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• Side Freeze Plugs
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• Front Freeze Plug
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• Mahle PowerPack Pistons
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• H-Series Rod Bearings (stock clearance)
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• H-Series Main Bearings (stock clearance)
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• Bronze Cam Thrust Plate Retainer
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• Cam Retainer
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• Industrial Injection Gorilla Girdle w/ Main Studs
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• 6.7 Crankshaft
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• SFI-Rated Flexplate
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• Billet Flexplate (recommended)
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• Billet Front Cover
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• Adjustable Timing Gear
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• P-Pump Timing Kit
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• P-Pump Custom Overhaul
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• Stage 2 Cylinder Head (with fire ring service)
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• Cam
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• Tappets
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• Will Terry’s DIY Breather Cap
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I like when actual mechanics make tear down videos....."I would run that again."
Thanks for the video!
Nicely done Will u need to make more videos 12 valve would b nice seeing I have a 95 3500 try and keep them coming
We have lots of cool stuff coming up, 12V Cummins included!
Interesting teardown Will, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!!
Glad you enjoyed it
What a beast! It blows my mind how these engines make power… Unreal, built like a tank! 👍
Couldn't agree more!
I love that editing! Thanks for showing us a nice teardown.
THANKS for the video will i always find tear downs from these mishaps interesting . When I bought my 01 24v the owner couldn't figure out why it had low compression on 1 and 6 . They cracked the rings from boost leaks and bad injectors. They tried fixing all that stuff after but I purchased it and had the block honed then I rebuilt it. I made sure I threw in plenty of cleanernce when I rebuilt the engine .
One of your guys best videos. Thanks for the experienced insight, recommendations, videos of Todd blowing motors in half.
Our pleasure!
Your knowledge and understanding of Cummins engine is impressive
Thank you!
Moar of this! I love seeing what Professor Terry is up to. Junker is an inspiring hotrod. thank you for these vids.
I used to do burnout comps and you look at how the engine touches in certain spots so they get a bit more clearence . Everything expands alot when you push a motor out of its design it was made for .
Yes absolutely that is why as we go up in hp when building these motors all the clearances increase as well!
40 degrees ?!?!? Crazy cylinder pressure. These Mahle diesel cast pistons are pretty tough. That stiffening steel ring land insert plays a large part
Absolutely!
The fact that these boys aren't over 100k subs yet is mind boggling....
Because that matters why? You kids will learn the hard way and it will be the sweetest lesson ever.
It was really interesting ( and informative) that you mentioned high line pressure in the transmission can apply a forward thrust into the crankshaft. I can’t go into too much detail of the situation on social media, but a somewhat similar situation just occurred at work, although it fortunately didn’t hurt the engine; at least that we are aware of. I doubt it did it any favors though.
Long story short, a machine had a torque converter failure shortly after I fired it for the first time. When the converter was built, pipe plugs were overlooked in the shafts of the power divider planetary gear cluster, and this allowed a higher than normal volume of oil to flow into the flywheel housing, exceeding the volume the scavenging pump would normally evacuate.
The resulting pressure buildup pushed the input shaft into the converter with enough force that a thrust washer was consumed, and metal was transferred to the adjacent plate.
This all occurred within minutes of run time, so it’s amazing how the smallest of details can lead to catastrophic failure!
Excellent job clearly explained and videoed. Tod has to have the world record engine explosion. Split in half with a piston going about 100 feet in the air. Never seen anything even close to that blow-up.
Yes we are just soo glad no one was hurt!!
You can drill and tap those dowels m6 then run a bolt in till it bottoms and it will push the dowel out.
yep
That's a great idea.
This is a testament to why I love the 12v Cummins so much. What a beefy powerplant to take that kind of boost and abuse and make those numbers. Thanks for sharing!👍
Yes they are quite amazing motors!
It is interesting how this man is used to the details of these high power engines. In a thousand years, using a diamond washer would not have occurred to me to use for that application.
Great video I love your knowledge and thanks for sharing.please do more on the 12 value
Thanks! Will do!
I just got done rebuilding an old Continental Z-134 and long story short had to do the rebuild in frame because previous owners welded some pieces together that shouldn't have been. So I used magnets to hold up the tappets so I could remove the cam, thinking I was going to reuse them, and then upon inspecting them decided to replace and used the magnets to hold the tappets in place while I slid in the cam. I bit of a PITA but overall not too bad. Definitely would have been easier if I could have done it out of the machine.
Thanks for the good content, 12v vids are the best.
No problem 👍
0:16 "Factory" except for the block being fire ringed, stroker/upgraded rotating assembly, oversize oil pump, ported heads etc. 🤣
We all hope Will was referring to the block being OEM, otherwise he's guilty of click-bait!
Really enjoyed this video
Glad you enjoyed it
AWWWW YEAHH!! been waiting for some more sweet 12 valve mechanical mafia content!!!! Keep it up!!!
Very informative! Thank you Will!!
Glad it was helpful!
Its like he knows how much im discovering.
Your motivating me to do the same thing but with a LMM Duramax!
Hotrod race truck? Or something more street performance oriented?
That roost was 👌threw dirt 300feet away
I rebuilt my first 5.9 in vocational school @ 16 y/o. The Farmer said blow by was a problem, but said it NEVER got hot.....#6 cylinder was a train wreck. I had to have it sleeved, and luckily it only took .010 to clean the rest up, with no elliptical wear..... Coolant flow is never top notch @ #6 on a 5.9 with a stock pump. Mods can be made with an electric pump, some fancy drill and tap work, to bypass coolant to that cylinder (externally) and should cure the "hot lapping" cylinder overheating issue. And it shouldn't affect the structural integrity of the block. Most 5.9 race engines are short ran and are block filled, so heat cycling is short and hot, with long cool down times, but that takes time both on and off the track.
I need to get one of those belt drive lift pumps for my 2.6 pull truck
These pumps require a knowledgeable person to install. Being that you have a pull truck it should be a cake walk for you!
-Todd
We put 150 psi into a John Deere 4260 and it broke the camshaft.
Gets my gears turning, to say the least. I've got a 94 12v with 140k og miles on it. Bought new by a man that kept it in a garage basically its entire life until he gave it to me.
Tuning up an older 12v Cummins to even 500 HP makes for a fun daily driver/tow/street truck. They are extremely reliable in the 500 HP range, like 1 million miles reliable.
Time for a taper lock on the front.
We've seen some sledpull setups with a taper lock hub design, but we've never played with one in-house.
@@pddofficial call Brad at Scheid Diesel Effingham. He can set you up with one.
Great video, please make one for installing a cat filter on a 12 valve using your line adaptor kit. Thanks
Thanks for sharing bud I would love to work with you guys and pick up some of your alls knowledge
The best way to land a job here is to send a resume/work experience/hobbies & interests letter to jobs@powerdrivendiesel.com. Many of the great employees that work here were once outsiders with little to no formal education but a strong passion for diesel performance combined with good work ethic and personal integrity.
7:31 then don’t go over 40 and will be good 😂😂😂
With a title stating 150PSI Boost, we gonna need tissues and wipes.
It lived for a while, but Will got greedy looking for more power and pushed timing too far.
@@pddofficial but I bet he had fun doing it...
When using bolts and keys, what would happen if you also welded the dampener on to the crank snout? Would that be a horrible thing to do? One disadvantage would be having to take the motor apart and then bandsaw the balancer off if you had to replace it.
with Fluid dampers full power kit and there diamond washer we have never had an issue even on our UCC truck.
150psi on a stock bottom end…..what an engine the 5.9 is, holy smokes.
Lol stock block, stock 6.7 crank. But it does have billet rods, upgraded cast pistons, and a girdle with studs.
150 PSI of boost and the head gasket didn't give up ? And that's a diesel, which means much higher compression ratio than spark ignition engine to begin with. I wonder what kind of material the head gasket is made of ? KRYPTONITE !!! Frankly many gasoline atmospheric engine have hard time keeping all the fluids where they are suppose to stay without ever drag racing.
Can you do an episode of where is it blows up I really would like to see that engine shatter into a bunch of pieces and basically destroy the whole truck That would make for a great video
Interesting. Good luck with the next build!
Slightly unrelated, but do you guys plan on experimenting with (more) engines from International, like the DT466 and/or DT360? Was curious.
There no different than the cummins we have a dt466 that's bored to a 540 that's making 800hp. Still running a rotory injection pump
We don't have any vehicles or engines in the fleet or our local customer base with DT466 or DT360 engines. It's fun to try new platforms, but availability/commonality is key when it comes to experimenting.
I’m guessing the stock oil pickup tube isn’t a issue in most street-only truck builds, but at approximately what RPM does that pickup tube start having the cavitation issues?
5000rpms
Interesting when I bought the new crank for my 6.7 thru powerstroke products they were like 1200
Aftermarket crank, so its cheaper than genuine Cummins.
Hehe 155psi to make the same as a decently built 3406. Not bad.
Love the 12V content. My 96 12 valve 5 speed has 310k miles, has been tuned to 450whp for the past 30k without a hiccup (was bone stuck til then). Only using it to tow heavy over mountain passes. My limiting factor is EGT, can't hang out above 30psi for too long but can hold 35psi for a few minutes. 30psi will stay under 1300 all day and night regardless of grade. Coolant temps are always good. Need a better turbo some day, still has the original stock HX35... do you have any recommendation for a good towing turbo? Not worried about turbo lag since I'm always in the throttle towing up hill and don't race it. I could really use another 50-100hp on certain grades without EGT issues.
The Borg Warner k27
Number 1 and 6 seem to always be hot. What are your thoughts on drilling out the coolant jackets on the gasket for those cylinders?
I opened all of them a little, and favored number 1 and 6 a bit to reduce the temp climb when at on it for an extended time.
There are tons of strategies that have tried to control temperature on those cylinders. In the end it has been easiest to add a little more piston to bore clearance and ring gap in our experience. The gasket mod trick does seem to help as well but we've never tried a modded gasket with no other changes.
@@pddofficial From my understanding you trade ring gap for blowby. The trans you are rebuilding for me now, the engine its mated to has well over a million miles on, I am sure that's next thing.
Sick build I love it and what are the 1/4 mile times
Nothing with this motor unfortunately but when it was a 1000hp it was a 10.89 truck.
ive never heard someone say 40 degrees of timing before
The party starts at about 35 degrees and keeps getting more fun up into the 50's.... if you have an engine that can take it of course.
-Todd
@@pddofficial So let me get this straight. While the crank is making its rotation around, its in its up stroke, then turned 50 more degrees before TDC the fuel is fired? So its like, a good distance pushed further down into the bore then struck by this titanic force of fuel and 150psi/nitrous mixture, crushes it, then makes the boom?
Its just so insane. Thats like double the timing of "normal" engines or more.
Need update on the dodge race car
We all wish Will would get it finished so we could make a nice update video, but sadly it's a slow boring process filming Will learning how to mig weld on an old Mopar.
@@pddofficial Naaa not boring. We want to know what mistakes and lessons he learns in the process
How much would it cost to have an engine built like this but only looking at running at 800 horsepower
Between 16k and 20k
Do you have any how to videos on making a 12 valve into a somewhat more powerful towing vehicle that is still reliable and one that won't overheat pulling heavy loads in the mountains? Would you possibly go with compound turbos vs your Turbonator VGT turbo or even compound Turbonator VGT's? Videos on any of these upgrades and comparisons would be great. Thanks.
Did you see the video we released a couple of weeks ago?
ruclips.net/video/lLTJz50Nz-w/видео.html
does anyone know if that predator lift pump will also work on a 1992 12v cummins with a ve pump
No it will not unfortunately due to not being able to regulate it's pressure down far enough.
Almost cant watch. Since I wrecked mine in the dang snow storm. 😪
That's no good sorry to hear!!
@@pddofficial thank you for the condolences. I'm driving a 2010 equinox now. Lol thank God we have something at least. I cant haul our water now till I find a way to get another truck. I'll get another.
Looks expensive
I have a real question. It seems to me that the internals are aftermarket and the short block was built for higher hp... I have a 12valve in project right now, I can't help but wonder, if I do the detail work to the internals that would theoretically be viable for 1000+, but tune to keep it at 500 max, how would it run, how long would it last, would it be efficient? I don't do competition or racing of any kind, it's a daily driver project. I was thinking I wanted to put the money into the internals that would increase efficiency and longevity and then run all externals at mild components. I've seen people try and make huge power on stock internals but I've never heard of anyone building the crap out of a motor and try to run it at a streetable power level.... I wonder what the outcome would be.
It is better to setup your tolerances to the hp you are going for as the higher you go in hp the looser/more worn out you build the motor.
@@pddofficial right, but a lot of the other factors is more my focus, such as the pistons that allow for a larger valve opening, extreme balancing, lightening the crank a bit, port the head ( not a wild cam ) put a cam in it, adding the girdle... I recognize that there are dimishing returns, I am more focused on building this motor to run super efficiently and give real performance for a long life. Like I said, this is a daily driver out here in cattle country where it gets slick as snot muddy. Most of the time it would be a waste to have anything more than 100 hp, but sometimes you gotta put the peddle down and have some fun.
150 lbs would blow apart almost any cheap non bar and plate style intercoolers.
That is why we use the Mishimoto intercessor they sure can hold the boost!!
Hello and hi all, sorry for asking, anyone know where/who can make custom high boost head gasket for diesel engine, aorry for my bad english, greetinga from Malaysia
"Average guy could do in his garage" Lol that better be a big garage. I wouldn't want to be fighting for space trying to lift that 100lbs head off, or the 100lbs crankshaft from below.
This truck was built in Wills garage before PDD was around.
Do you guys balance your rotating assemblies? I don't remember hearing you all talk about it so was curious.
No we have a local machine shop that dose it for us.
That is 1500 dirty horsepower you should throw some valves in there and you really reall need to redesign your pipin maybe incorporate a intercooler and a after cooler
What happens if you leave the killer dowel pin out on a engine with a fuel plate and governor springs? Mine had fell out and was in the oil pan when I got the truck. It was all chewed up from being between the cam gear and the block so I didn't put it back in.
nothing, its just a alignment pin to help you put the timing cover on
@@cs-gj3yf then why isn't the fix to remove it?
@@bryanford1139 cause diesel companies can't charge you 50 or 100$ for a piece of tin metal to "fix it"? duh
The alignment dowels determine the position of the P-pump gear and the cam gear. it sets the clearance and I would not remove the pin. Much easier to put a tab over the pin than remove it unless it is almost totally out. The pump puts a serious load on the cam gear and also the gear case itself. On a stock power truck with a lot of miles on the motor if the pin falls out it probably will be fine unless it caused damage. But on a fresh motor or hotrod motor use the pin and put a cover on it to keep it in place.
-Todd
@@pddofficial huh, ive rebuilt 20-30 12 valves and ive taken the pin out and tapped the hole, then put a stud in it for a nut, never had any issues.
40degrees!! What compression ratio?
17:5:1
4:00 just 155psi nothing to crazy lmao
💪💪
On the crank/harmonic. Can you sleeve the bolt holes?
There's enough room to drill and tap the threaded holes to 9/16", but that's kind of a last resort. There are a couple of competition-use taper-lock setups, but we've never looked into them for street use. Most of them lose the factory belt drive.
Wooo
so what youre saying is 149 is the limit
Could you not just bore it over and re-sleave it?
Not when it's this bad with the power it makes.
@@pddofficial ah understood
Are stock main and rod bearings copper?
Are dumb questions possible?
No need to be a dick dude, just asking a simple question and I don’t do this for a living either
derp
MPG?
in my head i see a swirl inside de tank when they flooar the pedal kkkkkkkkkkk
LoL, 150 psi and only 1500 whp? on a 6.1?
Yes, it's tough to make the big HP numbers on these old Cummins engines. But show me a 6.1L that makes well north of 2000 ft lbs and that shows what's really going on in the cylinder.... big pressure... just can't maintain it till 7k rpm.
Is this engine decompressed?🙃
It is not
I just get it i guess, abusing trucks and engines... why? To impress others? Endless burnouts are the most boring thing to watch. Then when something breaks...wah!
🙋 "Promosm"
So tired of hearing "built by".
uau
Whatever happened to the big 6.0 build you guys were planning?
Still working on it parts shortages affect us all.
What will cause a diesel to smoke on cold start.
I have a mercedes with the om603 3L turbo diesel. It smokes on cold start
For about the first 3 to 5 min. After its warmed up a bit it stops. If I plug in the block heater it doesn't smoke and doesn't smoke except winter. It never uses oil
And has good power. It only has 170k miles. Reman injectors. Glow plugs. All new top quality filters. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time and videos. Robert
We don't have a lot of experience working on OM603's, but in general, the cold startup haze is caused by incomplete combustion. The more haze, the more partially burnt fuel escaping out through the exhaust system. Unfortunately, if all of the injection systems components are fresh and with-in spec, there are very few inexpensive options to eliminate the haze. You can try to reduce the ignition temp requirement of the fuel: higher cetane value, preheated diesel fuel, aftermarket injector with custom orifice size to increase atomization.
From an engine design standpoint there are several factors that reduce idle haze: Increase compression, increase swirl in the combustion chamber, change characteristics of the injection event(multi-shot injection).
@@pddofficial ok thanks for your time. Its probably the best driving and most reliable car I've owned. Runs great just smokes a bit when not plugged in.
I will try ctane additive. What do you think about all the videos online people
Mixing strained used motor oil with diesel. Seems like it would be hard on injectors
It still sounds like a glow plug system issue. Possible controller. Does the engine run rough until the smoke goes away? Is it a white smoke?