Me too. I had a an I/O Merc freeze a bunch of years ago but I didn't have a clue. I took the boat to the closest lake and started it up, put the boat in the water and took a little ride with a couple friends a short ride. During the short ride I stepped back to the engine compartment, opened it up and removed the oil fill plug and yellowish/brown water came out. I had to change the engine after that I had to replace the engine. That was back in early 90s when an engine was only $600. I'm quite paranoid after that incident.
As you can see my head gasket was blown and the oil is very contaminated. I'm aware of that as this boat was on its way to the junk yard. I just wanted to throw this video together. Thanks for watching.
I just run a short piece of garden hose out the bilge with a large enough funnel to catch the oil when I pull the oil pan plug and have an empty oil jug on the other end.
Great video, was trying to suck it out of the dipstick and getting crazy frustrated. another 'hack' for me, was taking a 2.5 gal container and cutting a hole in one side, and got it to fit under the eng. and draind the oil into that. Then used a small hand pump to get it out of Again, thanks for the video...
I did this and changed my oil. Worked great. I put an old rug across the area between the pan and boat gunnel to keep it from tearing the bags. I doubled them. Thanks for the idea. Also, I just replaced the manifold on my motor, cracked from previous owner ignorance. This allowed the water in the oil, I hope. Different manifold and gasket and fixed the cracked block with jb weld. This is a normal thing with these motors if not winterized properly. I am going to do the start and test this evening I. Put in cheap oil to start with, then replace a couple times to get the water out. I hope I do not have a bad head or really bad cracked block to the inside, but that is rare in these GM 2.5 Iron Dukes. I hope you didn't junk your motor completely, it is fixable and not a bad fix in most cases.
I really appreciate your video. I don't appreciate the stupid comments for you trying to help people out. thanks again. I have the same engine and this saved me some time since I'm a newbie
Another thing you can get is a small handheld diaphragm pump or something similar and suck it up from the dipstick tube. This is common in many marine diesel applications, it is much easier than this method, but both get the job done.
You blew good money on a motor that needed a head gasket to teach us how to do this using your technique. Well do I owe you a beer. After trying three brand new cheap ass pumps from China I threw in the towel and used your method. My motor is a 4.3 squeezed into a 21 foot Lund. I could not reach the plug without pulling the right side exhaust manifold. But I had to go there anyway to change my oil pressure sending unit. The bag worked flawlessly, didn't spill a drop even after pulling the filter off. The manifold was a Bear to replace but once help arrived everything lined up. Guess I am going to buy a steel oil vaccum units. Cheers from Canada!
The hull was in good shape. Its a shame it had to go but my father and I ran into problem after problem with it. Not that they were related but after so many times in the shop we thought long and hard about it and decided on a new boat.
i just changed the oil on my mercruiser 3.0 yesterday, after draining all the oil by the bottom drain plug (until there is no more oil getting out of the drain), you still need to pump the rest of the oil by the top (dipstick hole), this portion of oil will stay in the engine and cannot be drained by the bottom drain hole). If you leave this oil there, you will contaminate your new oil. This the manual procedure. On the other hand, you cannot only use the pump and not draining by the bottom (same problem).
+Bent Rod i learned that because i bought my boat last summer, and i brought my boat to the garage for oil change, and the guy only pump the oil by the top and told me it was enough, (lazy guy), so after he add the new oil, i checked on my dipstick, and the oil was still black and dirty!!!???, he told me it was normal... This year i decide to do it myself and read my service manual... Then i discovered the garage guy did wrong!! i did by the manual procedure by draining the old oil by the drain plug and pumping by the dipstick hole as it is supposed to be, and after adding my new oil, magic!! my new oil on my dipstick is clear as water, and i fid a 3 hours run on the river after and my oil is still looking new!! hope it help! the pump is expensive, 75$, but once you have it you are ok
Thanks a lot, your help me to do it myself. I have very appreciated your video. I was looking for the damned screw and afraid to do it alone, so thanks again.
Hell yeah there is. I was thinking get a sleeping bag and sleep under there for the night! And yes water in the oil may also mean a cracked block and maybe not a head gasket. I would not be junking a boat that only needed a new head gasket. Now if the block was cracked then maybe junk it.
Wow thank you very much, awesome video !!! Can you tell me if you also need to use the pump as well as draining fron bottom? Or you can simply drain it from the bottom.
It can be lots of things, other than head gasket. I worked on many cylinder walls can be cracked along with a lot of scored bearings. Never know till it’s tore down. Never buy a boat when someone says blown head gasket. I learned my lesson the hard way in the early 80s...just look at it as needing new engine
This video is old I know. But just because it blew a head gasket it automatically means its junk? The boat seems fairly solid and everything and in pretty good condition compared to mine. But someone junks a boat over a blown head gasket? How about you get your hands dirty and throw a wrench at it and try to save it? I mean it just baffles me why you would junk a boat over a blown head gasket. Pretty much like saying oh your car ate a wheel bearing might as well send it to the scrap yard.
That wasn't the case. I could've fixed the boat but I didn't feel like it. I wanted to upsize and decided to skip yet another trip to the shop and just go buy a new boat. My new boat hasn't been to the shop once. This boat was there every year I owned it.
gorfano always refer to the manual for your engine. if you don't have a copy you can look online. the oil cap on the engine itself should tell you. I've always used Mobil 1. or other standard motor oils
According to Shell Tech, Rotella T oils can be used in any engine not using Catalytic Converter because of high Zink levels which is best for engines. It has very good lubricating quality for engines running at constant high speed. I recently had my 3.0 rebuilt at a speed shop and owner recommended Rotella T oil after break-in oil removed. Some use this in small engines also. I used it for years in my heavy equipment with diesel engines. Walmart has plenty of it.
@@skmg2888 I don't know. It had low compression from head gasket when I purchased the used 94 Bayliner and has no hour meter on it. Rebuilt Sept-2017 then ran approximately 2 hrs for break-in. Serviced July-2018 for boating season but health issues took over. Prostate Laser Surgery and recoup followed by 40 radiation treatments for Prostate Cancer thru Nov-2018. "No Boating 2018". July-2019 Back Surgery (Lumbar Fusion) without much success to this day so no boating in 2019. So it sits in my carport collecting dust. I'll give it another season and hopefully my grandsons can help me with it but they live 60 miles away. Beginning to look like I don't need a boat anymore. Didn't mean to bore you with all the info when I could answer in one sentence. Guess i needed to get it off my chest. Hope you had a great 4th and we can all make it through these pandemic times safe and healthy.
W K full disclosure.. the money I made on this video has paid for more than my next 5 oil changes on my new boat. That's why I wasted oil and filter. It paid off 5x.
I've been through too many issues with boats and I was in position to acquire a brand new one. I was just kind of fed up with fix after fix. decided it was time to move on.
Typically an engine repair of that nature will be rather significant (scored crank shaft & more) probably better just to get another engine. Sorry for your loss, of power. Why did you waste new oil & filter?
Invest in a vacuum oil extractor that goes down the dipstick hole if you want to change your own oil. Sorry, but your garbage bag idea is crude and environmentally irrisponsible.
My heart sunk when I saw the color of the oil that came out.
That is sad full of water, but why junk hopefully a head gasket would fix it.
Me too. I had a an I/O Merc freeze a bunch of years ago but I didn't have a clue. I took the boat to the closest lake and started it up, put the boat in the water and took a little ride with a couple friends a short ride. During the short ride I stepped back to the engine compartment, opened it up and removed the oil fill plug and yellowish/brown water came out. I had to change the engine after that I had to replace the engine. That was back in early 90s when an engine was only $600. I'm quite paranoid after that incident.
Don’t these motors use 25w40 ?
Boat for sale……..!
This is a classic video that remains highly relevant and informative. It presents a concise and clear explanation of the topic! Ty
As you can see my head gasket was blown and the oil is very contaminated. I'm aware of that as this boat was on its way to the junk yard. I just wanted to throw this video together. Thanks for watching.
Junkyard? If it only had a bad head gasket, the boat looks clean! I have a way older ib mercruiser 2.5 that runs and works great yet! Junkyard?
@@Justjessej dudes a chad, a lazy chad.
Yeah I would have changed the head gasket to hell that boat is clean enough where I may had even considered a motor swap!
I just run a short piece of garden hose out the bilge with a large enough funnel to catch the oil when I pull the oil pan plug and have an empty oil jug on the other end.
Great video, was trying to suck it out of the dipstick and getting crazy frustrated. another 'hack' for me, was taking a 2.5 gal container and cutting a hole in one side, and got it to fit under the eng. and draind the oil into that. Then used a small hand pump to get it out of
Again, thanks for the video...
I did this and changed my oil. Worked great. I put an old rug across the area between the pan and boat gunnel to keep it from tearing the bags. I doubled them. Thanks for the idea.
Also, I just replaced the manifold on my motor, cracked from previous owner ignorance. This allowed the water in the oil, I hope. Different manifold and gasket and fixed the cracked block with jb weld. This is a normal thing with these motors if not winterized properly. I am going to do the start and test this evening I. Put in cheap oil to start with, then replace a couple times to get the water out. I hope I do not have a bad head or really bad cracked block to the inside, but that is rare in these GM 2.5 Iron Dukes. I hope you didn't junk your motor completely, it is fixable and not a bad fix in most cases.
Did you end it up fixing it?
@@Ericrp119tube I did, and then sold the boat and motor before completing it.
I really appreciate your video. I don't appreciate the stupid comments for you trying to help people out. thanks again. I have the same engine and this saved me some time since I'm a newbie
Thanks! Great idea (garbage bag!), and I'll plan to use that!!
"Why didn't I think of that?!!"
I was thinking the same thing!
Another thing you can get is a small handheld diaphragm pump or something similar and suck it up from the dipstick tube. This is common in many marine diesel applications, it is much easier than this method, but both get the job done.
They make oil pans with a screw on cap aswell.
Sucking the oil out of the dipstick leaves behind a large amount of oil. Sucking it out does not get it all. Draining is the best way.
You blew good money on a motor that needed a head gasket to teach us how to do this using your technique.
Well do I owe you a beer. After trying three brand new cheap ass pumps from China I threw in the towel and used your method. My motor is a 4.3 squeezed into a 21 foot Lund. I could not reach the plug without pulling the right side exhaust manifold. But I had to go there anyway to change my oil pressure sending unit.
The bag worked flawlessly, didn't spill a drop even after pulling the filter off. The manifold was a Bear to replace but once help arrived everything lined up. Guess I am going to buy a steel oil vaccum units.
Cheers from Canada!
if its on it way to the junk yard why did you replace the oil and filter?
It wasn't he's a lying idiot trying to save face after his shit vid lol
Aw man, I hope someone fixed that boat...A real shame, looks like the hull was in nice shape.
The hull was in good shape. Its a shame it had to go but my father and I ran into problem after problem with it. Not that they were related but after so many times in the shop we thought long and hard about it and decided on a new boat.
i just changed the oil on my mercruiser 3.0 yesterday, after draining all the oil by the bottom drain plug (until there is no more oil getting out of the drain), you still need to pump the rest of the oil by the top (dipstick hole), this portion of oil will stay in the engine and cannot be drained by the bottom drain hole). If you leave this oil there, you will contaminate your new oil. This the manual procedure. On the other hand, you cannot only use the pump and not draining by the bottom (same problem).
thank you. that's very helpful.
as you can tell my oil was very contaminated. My head gasket was blown. It was a waste of oil to make this video but I'm ok with that.
+Bent Rod i learned that because i bought my boat last summer, and i brought my boat to the garage for oil change, and the guy only pump the oil by the top and told me it was enough, (lazy guy), so after he add the new oil, i checked on my dipstick, and the oil was still black and dirty!!!???, he told me it was normal... This year i decide to do it myself and read my service manual... Then i discovered the garage guy did wrong!! i did by the manual procedure by draining the old oil by the drain plug and pumping by the dipstick hole as it is supposed to be, and after adding my new oil, magic!! my new oil on my dipstick is clear as water, and i fid a 3 hours run on the river after and my oil is still looking new!! hope it help! the pump is expensive, 75$, but once you have it you are ok
+Bent Rod no problem, thx for your video to help others, just add the pump step!
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks a lot, your help me to do it myself. I have very appreciated your video.
I was looking for the damned screw and afraid to do it alone, so thanks again.
Interesting! Thanks. I think you still need to run the motor to fill the filter and then add to the same line you did...... Yes?
Thanks for the idea. Worked great
There's a hell of a lot of room under that motor. Mine is much closer to the hull.
Hell yeah there is. I was thinking get a sleeping bag and sleep under there for the night! And yes water in the oil may also mean a cracked block and maybe not a head gasket. I would not be junking a boat that only needed a new head gasket. Now if the block was cracked then maybe junk it.
Awesome video. That oil looks like mustard ? Not good.
Holy milkshake, Batman!
Great video. Helped a lot. Thank you.
I have to change my oil and didn't have a clue. this helped me out a lot. thank you.
I could feel the tears coming on when I seen you draining the oil and how milky it was. That's just too bad.
Really appreciate the video
Wow thank you very much, awesome video !!!
Can you tell me if you also need to use the pump as well as draining fron bottom? Or you can simply drain it from the bottom.
Draining from the bottom is the best way.
thank you, good video
Dude really brought the boat to a junkyard because he had a blown head gasket what a chad
Should you still treat your fuel if you put a fuel stabilizer in when you winterized it?
great video. I have a question for you do you know what size of battery this boat uses? and the cranking amps?
You need to replace your a head gasket, it looks like coolant or water is in the oil.
Why can't you just open up your bilge drain plug and run the old oil right into a container there outside the boat ?
that oil has so much water in it, you can just dump it down the sewer.
why a bag ? when you can surely get a rectangular rigid container under there. what a mess.
Ciao, mi sa che insieme all'olio ci sia un po' d'acqua, vista l'emulsione creatasi. Occhio alle perdite! Ciao
Dude , you have a blown head gasket
Milk shake sux.ur dip stick,what are those thread things right below it?
Have a boat with this same motor in it
If theres an oil pump how will that change the process?
Cleaver!
Folks, milkshake colored oil like that means it's been mixing with water.
Perhaps his head gasket is blown?
i think, i will try this
I’d replace the head gasket? It’s not hard
genius idea witht the plastic bag
whats the part number on that fram filter ?
i never saw anyone run there motor on mud before .
yesterday i forgot to put my plug in and i got water in the boat today check my oil . and its milky what should i do
Change the oil
What oil filter did you use?
4 quarts 3.8 liter
Your oil looked like it had alot of water in it
I think the Moro has a blown head gasket
An he doesn’t know that’s exactly what the motor oil looks like when mixed with water
We love our toys.
Head gaskit is easy to fix
It can be lots of things, other than head gasket. I worked on many cylinder walls can be cracked along with a lot of scored bearings. Never know till it’s tore down. Never buy a boat when someone says blown head gasket. I learned my lesson the hard way in the early 80s...just look at it as needing new engine
if its caught right away could it be still good after gasket repair ? i read sometimes its the intake gasket on older models?
Engine poop replacement
Спасибо бро из России
First off. Fram filters are the worst thing you could use. Get a good oil filter.
Um.....ur oil is not supposed to look like a milkshake.....😳
This video is old I know. But just because it blew a head gasket it automatically means its junk? The boat seems fairly solid and everything and in pretty good condition compared to mine. But someone junks a boat over a blown head gasket? How about you get your hands dirty and throw a wrench at it and try to save it? I mean it just baffles me why you would junk a boat over a blown head gasket. Pretty much like saying oh your car ate a wheel bearing might as well send it to the scrap yard.
That wasn't the case. I could've fixed the boat but I didn't feel like it. I wanted to upsize and decided to skip yet another trip to the shop and just go buy a new boat. My new boat hasn't been to the shop once. This boat was there every year I owned it.
BUD, YOU HAVE WATER IN YOUR OIL!!!!!
oïl should be 25w40,, the oïl cap is a GM car oïl cap!!
How much should it take ?
Used oil places do not want this, it contaminates their whole tank!
Is mobil 1 ok or do you need marine oil?sorry newb question
gorfano always refer to the manual for your engine. if you don't have a copy you can look online. the oil cap on the engine itself should tell you. I've always used Mobil 1. or other standard motor oils
According to Shell Tech, Rotella T oils can be used in any engine not using Catalytic Converter because of high Zink levels which is best for engines. It has very good lubricating quality for engines running at constant high speed. I recently had my 3.0 rebuilt at a speed shop and owner recommended Rotella T oil after break-in oil removed. Some use this in small engines also. I used it for years in my heavy equipment with diesel engines. Walmart has plenty of it.
@@larryring8639 at how many hours did your 3.0l need a rebuild?
@@skmg2888 I don't know. It had low compression from head gasket when I purchased the used 94 Bayliner and has no hour meter on it. Rebuilt Sept-2017 then ran approximately 2 hrs for break-in. Serviced July-2018 for boating season but health issues took over. Prostate Laser Surgery and recoup followed by 40 radiation treatments for Prostate Cancer thru Nov-2018. "No Boating 2018". July-2019 Back Surgery (Lumbar Fusion) without much success to this day so no boating in 2019. So it sits in my carport collecting dust. I'll give it another season and hopefully my grandsons can help me with it but they live 60 miles away. Beginning to look like I don't need a boat anymore. Didn't mean to bore you with all the info when I could answer in one sentence. Guess i needed to get it off my chest. Hope you had a great 4th and we can all make it through these pandemic times safe and healthy.
@@larryring8639 no worries at all, get it off your chest haha but thank you and same goes to you
Fram filters are garbage, ever cut one open, they are trash.
Wasted motor, typical damage is a scored crank shaft & more. Replacement is the best option. Sorry for your loss, of power.
No worries. I got rid of this boat and bought a brand new one. This boat served its purpose as a place holder while I shopped for a new one.
W K full disclosure.. the money I made on this video has paid for more than my next 5 oil changes on my new boat. That's why I wasted oil and filter. It paid off 5x.
why not just repair the engine?
I've been through too many issues with boats and I was in position to acquire a brand new one. I was just kind of fed up with fix after fix. decided it was time to move on.
I can relate.........
Way to go Michael!
Typically an engine repair of that nature will be rather significant (scored crank shaft & more) probably better just to get another engine. Sorry for your loss, of power. Why did you waste new oil & filter?
Invest in a vacuum oil extractor that goes down the dipstick hole if you want to change your own oil. Sorry, but your garbage bag idea is crude and environmentally irrisponsible.
How so? The oil was properly recycled.
What do you do with the oil-covered bag every year?
The same thing I do with oil covered containers. Recycle them properly.
You put it in the burn barrel and light it on fire. Duh.
What do you do with the oil-covered bag every year?
Burn it?