Smoother finish than I expected, nice! - I bought one last month & want to give it a try today. On a side note HF should either up their writing game or just save the paper & do away with instructions. 100% of the time I go to RUclips when any of my HF purchases require more than 2 steps. LOL
Hahaha. Yeah the HF instructions weren’t very helpful lol. But at least this one is pretty straightforward to install without proper instructions. It does give a good straight cut. I curf the topside cut with my circular saw to eliminate the splintering and it results in a great cut. Thanks for watching!
Agreed. HFT needs to set up a small workshop and hire a literate person to A: assemble a new product, then B: write instructions in American English to tell us how it's done. HFT could furnish the shop on the cheap ..returns, etc...and get a massive payback in goodwill. We all know HFT instructions are shyt.
@@woodrowsmith3400 I know they’re at the low end of the price spectrum but when I have an easier time understanding a random 12 year old on RUclips than the official instruction manual, there’s a problem!
Yo sup dawg it’s Ay-ayron from LA wooo. I have that same Hercules attachment foo, I do rough housing framing for my hustle , ripping the edges isn’t a problem for me most of my work is covered with drywall in the end but if you want a cleaner cut for something that is going to be visible put some tape on the cut after you square it up , I know that its annoying extra step but it works decent enough to minimize the tearing out of the edges . Anyways stay pimping and ripping homie and have merry Christmas you filthy animal and a happy new year
Find an outdoor power equipment dealer, and ask them for the least aggressive chain that they’ve got and have it custom fit. Some of the older shops still make custom chains.
Dude! Thank you for the video. I was stuck with installing this on my corded Ryobi and the arbor bolt was too short and pushed the saw too close to the housing! Removed the guard stop and just used the ryobi inner bushing. Installed no issues. I put the bar oil in before mounting but can see I’ll need something to top it off if I do a lot of cuts! Saved my sanity! Thank you!
I bought one of these, a different name brand but they're all identical other than the paint job. I cut many treated rough cut 8 x 8 post both square cut and on a 45 degree angle and the cuts were pretty accurate. well worth the money as it saved me tons of labor by cutting the beam in one cut.
All comments in how to control the tear out are worth trying. Sacrifical board would work best in my opinion. I had to laugh when you were unhappy with the cut like you were using a high tooth count finish blade. It is a chain saw. I was way more impressed than I expected to be.
Can confirm the installation tweaks. On a DeWalt 369 I also could not use the supplied "deep" inner bushing and also had to remove the blade guard stop bolt. Also the T-Slot and bolt that attach the mounting bracket to the saw depth slide is threaded in the T-Nut AND they give you a nut/washer, this is unclear how to install as they will bind against each other. Place the nut all the way on the bolt and add the washer. Then thread it into the T-Nut from the back , if it sticks out the front too far use the nut as a jam nut to fasten it all together.
yeah their instructions are not good hahaha! That's why I put the assembly in the video bc they seemed about useless to me. Once assembled though it's a great attachment and cuts well.
Yeah it’s a pretty handy attachment I must say. I think for finished grade beams I will cut the first 1/2” with a regular circular saw to keep the edge clean and then rest of the depth cut with this so as to avoid messing up the surface. Thanks for watching!!
that looks like a pretty nice setup. I got the prazi one on my makita 71/4 like 25 years ago and worked good. I want to try one on my 36v makita rear handle saw so i can work with out the cord. Good video, thanks!
No I didn't and I think that is the only way to really remedy the issue of the rough side of the cut. I am going to see if a finer cut saw blade is available but I think scoring it or pre-cutting the top surface before cutting with the beam cutter is going to be necessary to avoid the surface being ripped by the saw blade. Thanks for watching!!
I think it could be used for ripping but you would want to build a frame base to saw from to get square cuts so at that point you probably would be better off using an alaskan mill hooked up to a chainsaw. But the power is there to rip with the attachment I am sure...probably would want to use a worm drive saw due to increased use if ripping also. Thanks for watching!
Looking at this for an upcoming project. Question what about replacing the chain with a better quality chain, or sharpening? With my chainsaw with a sharp sharp chain I get very little tear out.
Quick question: I’m planning on hollowing out a tree stump and use it as a planter. Do you think this would work to cut the inside perimeter? Then I’d have to use other tools to chisel out the core.
Bought one of these a week ago with the intention of making mantles and trimming thicker slabs. In your opinion, could a slightly longer blade and chain be put on this? Thanks for the video.
Possibly? It would take some fabrication/alteration to accomplish it. I’d be worried about increased flex/wander in the blade and quality of cut diminished? Personally I’d be hesitant to extend one but would be interesting to see that done.
Did you have a problem with a horrible wobble. Bought one, and had to take it back. Now I'm trying anither one and kicking myself in the head as to why it's doing what it's doing
Isnt it betwr to if you lumberizi g wood with a rip chain saw blade, and do not cut at full depth, this settup seems like it wouldnt last lo g b4 chain is worn...
I had the same concerns but the saw pulls the blade upwards into the board so it doesn't seem like it could kick back like a regular saw could. But definitely an attachment requiring slow and cautious use. thanks for watching!
Use a big syringe at a pharmacy or medical supply house, 350 cc and they come with a hose if you like, suck in the oil and so easy to fill, and they don't leak and need clean up, For all that work seems like just cutting from all sides and finish with an old fashion hand saw would be much easier. Man, it's a chain saw, not a finish saw. Amaz , Temu or even Ali X
No...So far what I've done is use the circular saw to do a quick superficial cut on the surface and then come in with the beam saw and that has been working well.
I think this would be a great use for this attachment and would significantly improve production time for cutting stringers if you clamp the individual pieces of lumber together. It's a very useful attachment!
Yeah, line up the front of stringers, crowned, and affix strip of ply to mitigate tear out. Stop short of the corner and use a hand saw to get in tight to cover, or do in pairs with jigsaw in the corners. This isn't flat across the front.
it seems like a fair amount of tinkering to put this thing together. it would be better to just buy a 14 inch electric chainsaw for around 100$ and save your time. To switch back to your regular saw blade also takes a bit of time.
The thing I like about this attachment way better than just a chainsaw is that this gives very square cuts. If you aren't doing any open framing or anything where square and good cuts matter then I agree...chainsaw is fine. But if doing any kind of timber framing where you want good square cuts, this is way better than free handing with a chainsaw in my opinion. Thanks for watching!!
You must have gotten the wrong directions to install. My install had no issues as everything worked perfectly, after following the directions which you may have ignored 😮.
Dude …thank you so much . Those directions are completely useless like you said . That saver must be for worm saw . Thank god you put this video up because I was about to shoot my self…how can they do directions that bad /?”?”?!!!!
@@homeplaceadventures I think HF should have you do their videos ! I’m happy it’s working for you I will try it today . Hey just curious ….because once again their directions are so bad ….did you use the saws original inside flange ? I did not and it seems to fit…I have a standard skilsaw not a worm , but I just wasn’t sure because they don’t mention it again after taking off the original blade .
Nearly 10 minutes into the video and then the first cut...? Not judging anyone's craft skills, but all the hemming and hawing is not necessary on live camera. Key info could have been communicated in 3 minutes....
Good thing I didn't post all the hemming and hawing that went into assembling it with such poor directions bc then it would have been quite a bit longer! Thanks for the feedback.
I’m glad he put in the heming and hawing, it lets me know what to expect. While many RUclipsrs are not all polish up in there presentations I do appreciate the effort.
9:01 you get one of Harbor Freight's oil cans with a short flex hose. That worked for me.
If you score the cut line with a box cutter it should greatly reduce the rough cut
Screw a sacrificial 1x to it
The way to solve the tearout on the top side of the board is to use a 1/2” sacrificial board to keep your cuts smooth.
Smoother finish than I expected, nice! - I bought one last month & want to give it a try today. On a side note HF should either up their writing game or just save the paper & do away with instructions. 100% of the time I go to RUclips when any of my HF purchases require more than 2 steps. LOL
Hahaha. Yeah the HF instructions weren’t very helpful lol. But at least this one is pretty straightforward to install without proper instructions. It does give a good straight cut. I curf the topside cut with my circular saw to eliminate the splintering and it results in a great cut. Thanks for watching!
Agreed. HFT needs to set up a small workshop and hire a literate person to A: assemble a new product, then B: write instructions in American English to tell us how it's done. HFT could furnish the shop on the cheap ..returns, etc...and get a massive payback in goodwill. We all know HFT instructions are shyt.
@@woodrowsmith3400 I know they’re at the low end of the price spectrum but when I have an easier time understanding a random 12 year old on RUclips than the official instruction manual, there’s a problem!
Yo sup dawg it’s Ay-ayron from LA wooo. I have that same Hercules attachment foo, I do rough housing framing for my hustle , ripping the edges isn’t a problem for me most of my work is covered with drywall in the end but if you want a cleaner cut for something that is going to be visible put some tape on the cut after you square it up , I know that its annoying extra step but it works decent enough to minimize the tearing out of the edges . Anyways stay pimping and ripping homie and have merry Christmas you filthy animal and a happy new year
your comment currently wins the award for the most entertaining and unique hahahaha. Thanks so much and thanks for watching!
you can pre-make shallow score cuts with a circular saw (etc) to mitigate tear out
Find an outdoor power equipment dealer, and ask them for the least aggressive chain that they’ve got and have it custom fit. Some of the older shops still make custom chains.
Dude! Thank you for the video. I was stuck with installing this on my corded Ryobi and the arbor bolt was too short and pushed the saw too close to the housing! Removed the guard stop and just used the ryobi inner bushing. Installed no issues. I put the bar oil in before mounting but can see I’ll need something to top it off if I do a lot of cuts! Saved my sanity! Thank you!
awesome to hear and glad you got it to work on your saw!! Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful!
I bought one of these, a different name brand but they're all identical other than the paint job. I cut many treated rough cut 8 x 8 post both square cut and on a 45 degree angle and the cuts were pretty accurate. well worth the money as it saved me tons of labor by cutting the beam in one cut.
I agree- huge labor savings!!
All comments in how to control the tear out are worth trying. Sacrifical board would work best in my opinion.
I had to laugh when you were unhappy with the cut like you were using a high tooth count finish blade. It is a chain saw. I was way more impressed than I expected to be.
Can confirm the installation tweaks. On a DeWalt 369 I also could not use the supplied "deep" inner bushing and also had to remove the blade guard stop bolt. Also the T-Slot and bolt that attach the mounting bracket to the saw depth slide is threaded in the T-Nut AND they give you a nut/washer, this is unclear how to install as they will bind against each other. Place the nut all the way on the bolt and add the washer. Then thread it into the T-Nut from the back , if it sticks out the front too far use the nut as a jam nut to fasten it all together.
yeah their instructions are not good hahaha! That's why I put the assembly in the video bc they seemed about useless to me. Once assembled though it's a great attachment and cuts well.
wow pretty nifty...
I've used tape on paneling to stop splintering,, this may be a bit heavy for even duck tape.
Yeah it’s a pretty handy attachment I must say. I think for finished grade beams I will cut the first 1/2” with a regular circular saw to keep the edge clean and then rest of the depth cut with this so as to avoid messing up the surface. Thanks for watching!!
that looks like a pretty nice setup. I got the prazi one on my makita 71/4 like 25 years ago and worked good. I want to try one on my 36v makita rear handle saw so i can work with out the cord. Good video, thanks!
If you attach a scrap piece of wood to the top where the blade exits you should avoid tare out
Also, take a chisel strike to the cut line. That should prevent tearing.
Need 1950s oil can pump. The all-metal one.
Thanks for posting. I have the same saw except left hand cut. I haven't put the chain attachment on yet but when i do I'll mostly do rip cuts with it.
PC 843 here...left blade with brake. I will certainly now consider this add-on, now that I know it is adaptable to my saw.
Did you score the top line in order not to have a rough cut?
No I didn't and I think that is the only way to really remedy the issue of the rough side of the cut. I am going to see if a finer cut saw blade is available but I think scoring it or pre-cutting the top surface before cutting with the beam cutter is going to be necessary to avoid the surface being ripped by the saw blade. Thanks for watching!!
did you consider removing the blade guard altogether that might have give you a bit more depth to clear bottom plate
yeah I didn't think of doing that! I will have to see if that adjusts the depth ability. Thanks so much and thanks for watching!
How does this do ripping? As in could you use this to turn a log into a cant?
I think it could be used for ripping but you would want to build a frame base to saw from to get square cuts so at that point you probably would be better off using an alaskan mill hooked up to a chainsaw. But the power is there to rip with the attachment I am sure...probably would want to use a worm drive saw due to increased use if ripping also. Thanks for watching!
I am watching for the same reason.
can you rip the beam to create planks? Great video
you could, in theory, create boards by cutting down the length of a beam. But I have a sawmill so I'd use my mill for that. Thanks for watching!
@@homeplaceadventures I ordered a mil and its being delivered today Thank you for responding !
Looking at this for an upcoming project. Question what about replacing the chain with a better quality chain, or sharpening?
With my chainsaw with a sharp sharp chain I get very little tear out.
Quick question: I’m planning on hollowing out a tree stump and use it as a planter. Do you think this would work to cut the inside perimeter? Then I’d have to use other tools to chisel out the core.
If you run your utility knife before you cut will help...
Thanks for the video. Have you tried to use it for ripping or is it only for cross cut?
Bought one of these a week ago with the intention of making mantles and trimming thicker slabs. In your opinion, could a slightly longer blade and chain be put on this? Thanks for the video.
Possibly? It would take some fabrication/alteration to accomplish it. I’d be worried about increased flex/wander in the blade and quality of cut diminished? Personally I’d be hesitant to extend one but would be interesting to see that done.
@@homeplaceadventures I doubt I'll attempt it. Just gives me an excuse to buy one with a longer blade and chain.
you are supposed to remove the pivoting portion of the blade guard before installing the beam cutter over the arbor shaft.
Did you have a problem with a horrible wobble. Bought one, and had to take it back. Now I'm trying anither one and kicking myself in the head as to why it's doing what it's doing
No wobble or any issues whatsoever with mine! What saw did you connect it to? Mine has cut smoothly.
Me to. Mounted on a new hurcules 7/14 corded saw. Did you find why it does that?
Lucky you. I bought 4 of them. All the same. Mounted them on multiple saws. Bad batch of sprockets. Clearly machined crooked
But what about the bar oil?
It said they have a bar oil thing with it?
Could you mount this onto a portable Bosch table saw and rip down the length of logs to roughly square them off?
Cool thought.
Would RPM’s come into play at that point?
What about the bar oil?
I wonder if you installed some fastcap zero clearance tape on the bottom of the plate if it would clean up some of the tear out you are getting.
I don't think that would work because you can't plunge the blade through the tape like you could a table or skilsaw. Blade is fixed.
the bushing didn't work for me either. Using the Chicago Electric 12 Amp from HF.
Isnt it betwr to if you lumberizi g wood with a rip chain saw blade, and do not cut at full depth, this settup seems like it wouldnt last lo g b4 chain is worn...
I don't much about circular saws, but everyone is switching to battery powered tools.
Can you find a chorded saw that's more powerful for less money?
I;m just a a bit worried about safety on this, there is no brake for when a kickback occurs right?
I had the same concerns but the saw pulls the blade upwards into the board so it doesn't seem like it could kick back like a regular saw could. But definitely an attachment requiring slow and cautious use. thanks for watching!
@@homeplaceadventures Unless it pinches on the back side and comes flying out. Maybe the guide blade helps. just count your fingers before use
There is no kickback because the blade is cutting on the up stroke so it’s pulling into the wood
@@esbrasill And after? 😉
Use a big syringe at a pharmacy or medical supply house, 350 cc and they come with a hose if you like, suck in the oil and so easy to fill, and they don't leak and need clean up, For all that work seems like just cutting from all sides and finish with an old fashion hand saw would be much easier. Man, it's a chain saw, not a finish saw. Amaz , Temu or even Ali X
Have you used tape?
No...So far what I've done is use the circular saw to do a quick superficial cut on the surface and then come in with the beam saw and that has been working well.
Could this attachment be used to cut multiple stair stringers at one time? This could save time on deck builds. Nice video!
I think this would be a great use for this attachment and would significantly improve production time for cutting stringers if you clamp the individual pieces of lumber together. It's a very useful attachment!
Yeah, line up the front of stringers, crowned, and affix strip of ply to mitigate tear out. Stop short of the corner and use a hand saw to get in tight to cover, or do in pairs with jigsaw in the corners. This isn't flat across the front.
Score the cut line with a regular saw blade first
it seems like a fair amount of tinkering to put this thing together. it would be better to just buy a 14 inch electric chainsaw for around 100$ and save your time. To switch back to your regular saw blade also takes a bit of time.
The thing I like about this attachment way better than just a chainsaw is that this gives very square cuts. If you aren't doing any open framing or anything where square and good cuts matter then I agree...chainsaw is fine. But if doing any kind of timber framing where you want good square cuts, this is way better than free handing with a chainsaw in my opinion. Thanks for watching!!
More interested in the book on your table. Is that a bible?
It sure is one of my Bibles! Colossians 1:13-14 🙏🏻❤️
It's a chain saw so cuts won't be pretty.
Good Lord!
You must have gotten the wrong directions to install. My install had no issues as everything worked perfectly, after following the directions which you may have ignored 😮.
Dude …thank you so much . Those directions are completely useless like you said . That saver must be for worm saw . Thank god you put this video up because I was about to shoot my self…how can they do directions that bad /?”?”?!!!!
Hahaha…man their instructions are literally a joke! So glad you found this to be helpful!!! I continue to enjoy this attachment. Thanks for watching!
@@homeplaceadventures I think HF should have you do their videos ! I’m happy it’s working for you I will try it today . Hey just curious ….because once again their directions are so bad ….did you use the saws original inside flange ? I did not and it seems to fit…I have a standard skilsaw not a worm , but I just wasn’t sure because they don’t mention it again after taking off the original blade .
Nearly 10 minutes into the video and then the first cut...? Not judging anyone's craft skills, but all the hemming and hawing is not necessary on live camera. Key info could have been communicated in 3 minutes....
Good thing I didn't post all the hemming and hawing that went into assembling it with such poor directions bc then it would have been quite a bit longer! Thanks for the feedback.
He's trying to show just how qualified he isn't.
Thanks for the heads up lol
11:53 most people aren't making angles cuts with these.
I’m glad he put in the heming and hawing, it lets me know what to expect. While many RUclipsrs are not all polish up in there presentations I do appreciate the effort.