How to: Replace PCV valve, hose, oil separator Ford Duratec / Mazda L (Focus/Ranger/Mondeo/Mazda)
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- Simple how to: Replace the PCV valve, PCV hose, and oil/air separator on Ford Duratec and Mazda L / LF I4 engines.
Positive crankcase ventilation components are often given insufficient maintenance attention. Valves can clog up and vacuum hoses often rupture or collapse. A split hose is a common cause of vacuum leaks on these engines.
These PCV parts are between the engine and intake manifold, so require removing the manifold - see here: • How to: Remove intake ...
Search Amazon for parts*:
Ford, US: amzn.to/2dekKBt | UK: amzn.to/2duAGxq
Mazda, US: amzn.to/2cI6ZrI | UK: amzn.to/2dewgAk
* The car shown is a 2002 Mondeo but the Duratec and Mazda L/F engines all use the same design. Parts vary and in many cases were revised with improved designs, as touched on in the video. In my case for example, renewing the intake manifold itself would require upgrading all components through to the oil separator.
(Using the above Amazon links helps support my channel and is appreciated!)
Search Amazon for parts*:
Ford, US: amzn.to/2dekKBt | UK: amzn.to/2duAGxq
Mazda, US: amzn.to/2cI6ZrI | UK: amzn.to/2dewgAk
See description for more info
The engineer who designed this PCV set-up should face a firing squad !!!
Thats honestly way to kind.
I was just thinking, where tf was this shit on the old cortinas and stuff?
Yeah a pain in the ass Job lol
Your chanel is a bible. Everytime I want to check/change/repair something I come always back to you. Thank you!
Thanks Craig,it’s almost impossible to get a video pertaining to PCV removal in a 2007 focus as in your demonstration. Yours is priceless. I’ve never seen it demonstrated like that. I’ll try to replace it without pulling off the intake manifold but if this fails I’ll know what else to do.Just loved your video. Lester from Cape Breton N.S.
Was it possible without removing intake????
@@mrtankkiller9163 no, also just replace the whole oil separator, 30 dollars on rockauto.
Tried the PCV swap!! Instant success! Thanks. My PCV hose was completely cracked also!
This worked great with my 05 Ford focus zx4 sedan. Very well done video.
I don't know if replacing the PCV valve will fix my issue yet, but this video was the only video after a lot of searching for both forums, images, DIY instructions and all the other videos that were absolutely useless. This one clearly explained how to get this off and out of the car in a very easy and clear manner. Removing the intake manifold was key. After finding a diagram that it was behind it, it wasn't sure how to get at it. I didn't realize the intake manifold came off so easily. Anyway, while my engine is a 2.0T ecoboost out of a 2014 Fusion, the intake manifold and most of the front of the engine looked identical to this one, exact same PCV housing and everything. I was able to quickly remove the intake manifold and pull the housing out and pop the retainer ring off the PCV valve. I see not a single auto parts store has the valve or anything to do with it, so I'll have to find this part online. It's scary how quickly a perfectly good car can go obsolete :(
If able to, please add a tag or something for the 2013-20?? Fusions, at least the 2.0T ecoboost looks like this for this particular replacement job. Maybe make a note that this is for reference only, and to make sure to check your own model and year for part numbers and such. Again, I can't thank you enough for such a clear video. Now, here's to hoping this takes care of my issue!
Thanks. If you found the valve part # feel free to post it for your EcoBoost.
I bought my PCV valve at O’Reilly’s
And I would add if you're there to take the intake off go ahead and change out the thermostat to. And great video to
Hi Craig, I recently bought a Ford galaxy mk2 manufacturered in 2007, with a 2.0 liter Duratec HE. The car was perfect but after about 600k I noticed that the oil was below the lowest mark. Also noticed that the oil on the deep stick was black with suspended charged particles.. Did an oil change, because I thought the previous owner was sloppy with maintenance. But again after 600 km oil was below the lowest point on the stick. The car also had an usually hard starts.. But no error codes and the yearly MOT had no emission remarks and the vehicle passed with no issues.. I went ahead and invested in building in a liquid petroleum injection unit ensuring that the car also run on LPG and all was well besides the high oil consumption..The Ford garage said that 1 liter per 1000 km was OK and since there were no error codes, they suggested I flush the oil system and keep an eye on oil consumption.. This I did, but consumption still was about 1 liter every 600 you 700 km
Given the age of the car and the fact that the car had been parked for over a year, I suspect the pcv needs replacing.. Anyway I haven't yet got the courage to replace it myself but after driving 9000 km the engine warming light has come on and the error code associated is P0420, catalytic convertor malfunctioning.. My question is can a pcv failure cause the P0420 error? and would you mind coming over to the Netherlands for a weekend to assist me replacing the pcv and tube. I have access to a DIY garage Monday through Saturday and would meet your travel expenses of course.
No I can't come to the NL. However the PCV job is not too difficult, you just have to face up to taking off the intake manifold, which is time consuming but not mechanically difficult, see the other video(s) linked. I think a failed PCV valve could allow too much oil through and end up contaminating the exhaust and clog the cat, but many other things could dump oil into the cat - worn piston rings etc. You will have to try to work backward from the cat code, have you watched the O2 sensors on a graph to see what they're doing. I presume you have checked for basic things like oil leaks. Is the exhaust smoking. PCV is cheap so do it anyway, and when you take the oil separator off, is there any sludge inside engine.
@@CraigsDIY I was sure, that coming to NL was a long shit, but had to ask anyway.
I believe the pcv is stuck open and so NO oil leaks or black smoke or high pressure in the crankcase , but hard start and now the P0420 error code, oxygen sensor bank 1., I have now taken the car to the Ford dealer to confirm my diagnosis and I will attempt to replace the Valve and hose on Friday or Saturday following you manifold removal and pcv replacement videos .. However My wire harness also has the injectors and sparkplugs wiring bundled into it which will make labeling and unplugging over 20 connectors a nightmare in itself , but I will try it this week.
Thanks though for your wonderful illustrative videos.
@@CraigsDIY because the car has an LPI system installed in to the manifold, I wasn't prepared to tackle this task until today. Begun at 12 noon and by 18 hours the manifold and 18 electrical connectors were back on. Had to also remove the fuel rail and injectors. Anyway the PCV valve was still okay, but the hose had split and the crack was almost 20cm long.
Good news the error code P0420 has also disappeared.
Thank you Craig for your video for saving me a fortune..
The Ford garage had asked for 1200euros for this job. Thanks again.
@@konstak5651 After replacing the pneumatic rubber hose, is the burning of oil the same all the time? Did you manage to do something for Ford to eat less oil?
Same for Ford Galaxy owners also. Thanks for the upload. Now to take off the oil separator and check inside there as the engine is burning oil. My pcv valve rattles freely and compression through a compression tester is even on all cylinders. There is black sludge sitting on top of the pistons. Going to pour paraffin into the cylinders to clean it away and then change oil just in case piston rings are sticking. Hope it sorts it out or I'll be taking it to a garage to get valve seats looked at otherwise. Thanks.
Did you had oil burnin ishue on your engine?
@@galcizman2348 Yes. It turned out to be valve stem seals. New or spare engine only. No parts for them.
How much oil did your engine burned o n 1000km?
@@galcizman2348 It was burning oil like mad. Every time I filled it up with petrol at a petrol station I would have to put maybe 1/2 a litre of oil in it as well.
@@eddyemm Thank you for anwsers😁
One of the best videos in Utube . Thanks so much .
A1 plus plus plus video. Just what I needed. Thanks so much.
Could you tell me beside the off valve, what else I should replace, the oil seperator, and what hoses do I replace? Thank you, JohnG
Can of carb cleaner, blast the PCV valve until it starts rattling again - job done ;)
It's a Best explanation have ever see. Thank you.
Just changed this valve on my Focus with Zetec Rocam engine. It is 1.6L.
Hi Craig, really great videos to start off with. I have a ford c max duratech 1.8 petrol and it uses alot of oil like 3 litres a month or so, my engine runs fine but struggles to start sometimes and there is always oil in the throttle body (only smoke when it struggles to start). Ive been told it may be either the PCV valve, oil control rings or valve stem seals but I dont want to tear my car apart as it is a daily runner and cant really afford to spend much on it as its pretty old anyway. I know this might be a shot in the dark but if you could help with these symptoms that would be a massive help. Subscribed...
Did that fix your oil consumption?
why in the hell is the PCV output half way up the engine, engineers make my neck sore from shaking it in disbelief
Engineers need a class on How to build a car.
can you tell me when was the final manifold/oil separator design released would a uk 2006 focus be the latest version?
Nice with great info.. million thanks...
However, with all the hassle, why dont you install an oil catch tank for better oil separating?
Just my 2 cents
I had very little oil in the bottom of my intake manifold (if you look at the manifold video you can see) when I took it off. The engine's not direct injection so no need to be paranoid about keeping the valves clean. So I don't see the point, upgrading the factory air/oil separator to the last revision would probably be a more effective investment.
How can I diagnose my PCV system without disassemble the intake? What are the symptoms of bad pcv valve and bad hoose? How do I know if the oil thing has oil in it?
I don't look forward to disassemble the intake. Have 1.8 engine. Built by Ford. But it's a Volvo
Thanks. Sadly these are being taxed off the roads (uk)
i guess im lucky, i have a 2.3 liter duratec on an escape and the pcv valve and hose are at the back and easily accessible
Are you still on RUclips? I’m curious on where you’re saying yours is. I’m getting conflicted information and people are saying mine is underneath the intake manifold but I think mine is at the top back. It’s 2005 Ford Escape 2.3L, but I don’t know if it’s duratec or not…
My PCV hose collapsed and split, and I replaced it and the valve with the help of this video. The car ran great for a few months, and then the new hose collapsed and split. I'm going to replace this thing a second time, but any idea about what's causing it to fail?
Did you replaced also PCV valve ?
This PCV acts like a check valve or it allows air to pass in both directions? 👍👍👍
It's one way.
Thanks for your video
You helped me greatly
I heard that the pcv valve can be changed from underneath the car with long bent needle nose pliers... It's difficult but possible apparently without having to take the intake manifold off. I think mine it causing my excess oil burning problem.... I just hope that I will be able to change it without taking off the manifold.
Good luck. I've heard of the hose being replaced like that (although the hose can also be really glued to the manifold) but getting at the valve collar and applying force in all the right directions will be very awkward. I also think you should take off the air/oil separator and inspect it as part of this job.
I gotta ask- did you do voiceover work on the game "Half Life"? Anyone who's played the game will know exactly what I'm talking about, lol
Hello...I wonder if there is a way to reach the PCV hose from underneath the car, without having to remove the manifold?
If you have small hands and it is easy to pull off, it might be possible. It would be pretty awkward though.
@@CraigsDIY Thanks...
How to knew that it is time to replace it??
Great video! Thanks a lot!
You know or does anybody know the inner diameters of the PCV hose?
I would install an oil catch can into my Mazda 6, which has the saem enginem and I would purchase and prepare the needed parts before I start it.
Thanks!
Muy buen video, una explicación muy detallada, gracias
Thank you , good job!
Thank you for the helpful video 🙏 👍.
This intake is a nightmare to remove! Also to replace the rubber line from the valve... Really pain in the ...! job to do!
Could replacing this PCV sort out my lumpy shaky idle, only happens when car is warmed up and not all the time just most of the time.
Any vacuum leak can cause a rough idle, when it's cold it will be idling faster which can hide it.
so what are the symptoms for a bad pcv with these motors? My 2012 escape 2.5 vibrates pretty hard in gear when cold, and I've replaced all 4 mounts.
God bless that swiss army knife...
Is it possible to change PCV hose without removing intake manifold? What if radiator is removed away ?
Radiator won't help. Starter motor might. You get to the point where taking off the IM isn't any harder, it's really not that difficult. It is maybe physically possible to do the hose with it in place, if you have small hands maybe, but very very awkward especially if it's stuck on.
Your videos are superior!!! Question for you. I replaced my PCV valve after watching your videos in hopes it would help me resolve my focus ZX3 w/ a 2.0 smoking issue. But it didn’t. Do you have any recommendations what else might be causing it to be burning oil? The intake has a bit of dried oil stuck to the inside of it and same with PCV oil to air box that is mounted to the crank case. Thank for any feedback!
3:40 what if it is not raked in on the left of the yellow one and the flaps were closed all the time when driving? is it possible that the car jerked when accelerating because of this? we only noticed it now.
Car manufacturers never make things easy for the DIY owner. It's always been about making money from the poor motorist. Even what used to be a simple bulb change can be very time consuming now.
It's also worth remembering that plastic parts become brital with age and can very easily crack and brake up.
Don't know if your still around to answer questions but do you know if the new valve comes with the clip? Gonna be working on my sister's car this weekend
what's the option to different sizes elbow or hose I have the orange one but separator cover is modified to the aluminum bottom pcv smaller diameter elbow
Man I just did this job without taking the intake off PITA.... removing the intake is probably the quicker and better option! Try and use a Motorcraft hose the dorman made in china hose is a tad shorter.
I wasn't sure it was even possible. Were you able to reach your hands in there, or did you do it using tools?
Apparently it is indeed possible for the pcv valve to be changed from underneath the car with long bent needle nose pliers... It's difficult but possible without having to take the intake manifold off. I think mine it causing my excess oil burning problem.... I just hope that I will be able to change it without taking off the manifold.
I read on a forum some guy said that the ford dealers change them that way and don't charge all that much because it's a 5 minute job for them. I am not sure about the hose though.
@@matheous77 what are you not sure about the hose ? You say it can be done from underneath the car removing the started but then you say I'm not sure about the hose though? What the fak
@@pono321 I read on a forum that when you take this model car to ford to change the pcv valve, they are able to do it with some bent long nose pliers from underneath the car. But as for the pcv hose don't think it's possible to change the pcv hose though without taking off the manifold. In other words, you can change the PCV valve without taking off the manifold, but very difficult to change the PCV hose without taking off the manifold.
can you help me? I have ford galaxy 2009 2l engine that uses a lot of oil. About 1.2 liter on 1000 km. Is this the problem of a bat PCV valve? ore have i bad piston rings to. Engine has 253.000 km driven.
Greetings marco.
Hello, mondeo 3 has got idle speed increase especially after engine warm up, I changed the idle valve and potentiometer again! I think the manifold flaps are making noise. I would like information if you have experience with this fault.
Can I replace it when any black hose with the same length or does it have to be a certain material etc
No, it needs to be vacuum hose that won't collapse under vacuum. The walls are very stiff. The shape is also a little strange so it would be difficult to replicate, easier to just buy the Ford part.
What oil do you use?
Whats the mileage on that engine?
Just trying to compare what I got behind my PCV cover to what others have.
-Thanks
I wish that PCV valve was cheap.
It comes as an assembly and only Napa AutoParts had it...for $100 bucks.
What takes 30 min tops and $10 on my Tacoma takes hours of work and cost $150...
Super dumb design.
great video I did this last month and found sludge within the oil separator - would this cause envision issues and burning oil issues
More likely a parallel symptom of a badly maintained engine I'd guess.
Craig's DIY Car my valve is a metal one and pin keeps sucking up and cutting car out any ideas what might be making it do that
Спасибо за видео.
Is this the same engine as a Volvo 1.8 se 2004. I was just wondering if the PCV system is blocked would it cause it to smoke. The car only has 82.000 on the clock and it would be a shame to distroy the car considering it's in really good condition. 👍🏿
You'll have to identify that smoke, white or blue or ?, and other symptoms. Put a scan tool on and look at basic EFI things. You'll probably be looking at more fundamental things than PCV but maybe.
I have a 1.8 flexful duratec motor. I cant find the part. Does the pcv valve for the 2.0 motor fit the 1.8?
anyidea 1.8 duratec 440000km, no smoke, idle normal, changed manifold, good perfomance, starts at once. BUT..... 1.5 lt oil per 1000km ? what is wrong? i used at normal 5w40, now i am at 15w40 and i see no blue smoke, sometimes, when very hot, at traffic lights, i start to move and see smoke on the rear view mirror. Any help?
Grey/white smoke along with lost oil, likely worn piston rings. Could be other things, head gasket, damaged block. Is the coolant clean. Obviously check for basic leaks! - e.g. front & rear main seals.
@@CraigsDIY i do fix simple motors. Coolant red. Normal. No temp. Replaced 3 times thermostat. 1 time water pump. Blades were all cut. No leak front rear crank. But for 3 years car had no hot water in cabin heater. I found 2 small radiator pipes8 mm were having oem metal strainer inside that were stick. I found it when i replaced water pump and trying pass air through collars. Anyway the car is consumpting big time oil with no blue smoke view, or white , i believe the oil piston rings are bad design. Anyone unvlocked them with result? I dont want to open motor.
I've changed mine and now it's just sucking pin up in pcv valve any ideas what could be going on any help would be appreciated ty
Thanks
Will flushing the engine oil help removing the sludges accumulated inside the oil seprator?
Who knows. I don't think a flush is sufficient once enough sludge is built up. It's also debatable that disturbing it is a good idea if you're not stripping everything down and cleaning it properly.
Very poorly designed for a 'regular maintenance item'.....shame on Mazda....
And ford for you using this peace of shit engine
That an under statement. I just learned what is involved. Remember when it took longer to open the package than to install.
My 2010 focus with a duratec engine is using alot of oil and its using more and more as time goes by. Could this PCV cause this
It's worth checking, see if the valve has failed and also look inside the breather pipe at the rocker cover, and the filter box, to see if there is oil. The related suspect is piston rings.
Demon Destroyer hey i have thé same problem.
Could you find it?
Thanks
Is there a way to check if the valve is stuck without dismantling anything but a hose in which i can suck or blow to ear there a click sound from the valve ? Thanks ! Engine : Duratec ST (Fiesta ST 150)
You can blow/suck on the disconnected hose if you don't mind a mouthful of oil, it will stop the one way and flow the other if working. But as you can see from the video it is very hard to access without removing the intake manifold.
Thanks, the thing is i just swaped the engine with a used one after a rod exploded and now everything is finished, the new engine blow smoke at high RPMs...But works great. So i have to dismantle all the front of the car because on the Fiesta there is no room to remove the manifold...Sad...I will take it to a leak down and compression tst before.
Hi!
Do you have a link for pcv hose and valve?
Thanks!
Is the same procedure for a focus 2018 ?
These valves destroy cars but save the enviroment, i guess..
I'm really struggling to find this part on amazon, and when I do they don't deliver to NZ... for a 2.0 L '03 Mondeo petrol
Well the Mondeo wasn't sold in the US so it would be hard to find the right equivalents from other Duratecs. I used a supplier in the UK. Try Endon Services.
great video. can the valve be cleaned?
You could clean it with some throttle body cleaner or similar if it is just jammed up, but that doesn't guarantee perfection and I don't see the point. It's a very cheap part but a total b!tch to access... much more sensible to just replace it.
You right a bitch to access. 28 euro for valve and 55 euro for the short vacuum pipe at my local ford.. Videos are very good.
I wouldn't pay those prices, try some alternative suppliers. Links in the description for Amazon. Or just find parts # and search online.
Will do thanks again.
@@mack1609 please any updates
where is located the pcv valve on my FROD MONDEO 2.5 DURATEC 2004 the same motor of the st220 version anyone knows
can anyone help me find these parts including the hose? I'm in the Netherlands and I cant find these parts anyware. I prefer not to go to the local ford dealer here since they broke my lock bolt and damaged 2 of my rims and they don't want to replace them.
The parts shown are: hose - Ford 1119272, valve - Ford 1216674. I recommend a 3rd party Ford parts supplier, in the UK I used Endon Services @ endonservices.co.uk and I recommend them - *however*, as explained in the video, these parts varied over the Duratec life, and are differently sized to match variations in both the intake manifold and the oil separator. So you must accurately identify your existing parts before ordering.
hello.i have an mondeo mk3 duratec 1.8 petrol and i have a problem: in the morning with the engine cold i have to start it a few times before i can go.i turn the key, it's starts , and then it stops when the engine wants to stay idle.this think only happens when i have less than half of the tank ..please help me.i have cleaned the map sensor, the idle thing (it's in one of your videos with the map sensor), the throttle body.new sparkplugs, new Air filter, petrol filter, and the engine it has been completely restored ( the valves, all the gaskets etc) this problem was there even before the engine's restoration.( sorry for my bad english, it's not my native language).PLEASE HELP
Not sure I can help much. Idle stall problems many possible causes. Intake side e.g. - faulty or clogged IACV or EGR valve, faulty TPS. Check cylinder head temp sensor is giving sensible data. Fuel side - injectors or fuel pressure regulator. Even EVAP system. Check electrical system ok (battery & alternator voltages & voltage drops). But if it's the case that it won't start only when fuel tank is empty, suspect weak fuel pump, need to check fuel pressure with a gauge, also need to check ECU for error codes and scan fuel trims for more leads. Good luck.
It won't start only with a full tank
Aproximately
Deian Borosoiu try not to fully tighten petrol tank cup as they sometimes do not let air go in to tank making vacuum I have this problem
Hi ;) this is motor 1.8 he 125ps or 1.8 SCi 130ps?
thx man
Hi Craig, I have the same mondeo as you. Can you give me the oemnumbers of the valve and hose please? Love your videos BTW! KR Richard
The hose and valve has to be fitted to both the manifold and the oil separator, both of which changed over time. So it's difficult to work out which you need without actually looking at what you have.
I've got a 2005 Duratec DOHC V-6. The engineers that designed this sideways V-6 should be sent to the 5th ring of hell and forced to remove the valve cover on Bank 1 for ETERNITY. What a pain in the ass to do ANYTHING on Bank 1.
anybody know where i can find a pcv hose for a 97 town car ? i can’t find any anywhere or if there’s any interchangeable parts, found a 95 valve hose but not sure if it is compatible with my 97
Ce simptome avea ? Consuma ulei ?
Hello Craig to your knowledge is this the sane engine as a 2005- 1.8 volvo s40? And if so do you think the pcv valve from ford will fit? Thanks Alot.
I just took a quick look at the S40 wiki page and I can't tell easily. It could be the Ford Duratec 1.8. You will be able to recognize it visually if you pull of the plastic cover and ignore any Volvo logos. If it is then yes the valves & hoses will fit, but as I belabor in this video there are several different revisions and you will have to work out which you have - the only reliable way will be to pull off the existing part #s.
Craig's DIY Car Thanks for taking the time to reply, yeah I'm pretty sure it is the same engine with few small differences e.g it has electronic throttle, just thought I'd run it by you. Thanks Again ✌
I also have a Volvo S40 1.8l. Just did the PCV valve and hose replacement, the hose had a 5cm tear in it. The engines are almost identical, with some exeptions like the electronic throttle you mentioned and some wiring. This video helped alot.
Erik i Tuni Thanks for confirming this, I keep meaning to do it myself but it just seems a but tricky.
I know what you mean, I bought the pcv valve at lease a year ago but never got around to fixing it. Luckily I followed online advice and bought the hose before starting.
I bought my parts from a Volvo dealer, you should be able to see what the part numbers are on catcar.info.
Seems straightforward
nice thanks
I have a 3.0 V6 mercury montego. My Haynes repair manual is telling me the PCV is behind the intake manifold by the egr valve but I’m calling bs. It looks like it’s right on the valve cover of bank 2. The pcv hose is connected to the air hose between the throttle body and air box. Someone let me know
That sounds like the PCV breather hose. The valve is at the other end of the system and needs IM vacuum so it needs to go downstream of the TB.
Craig's DIY Car okay thanks for the reply. I did find it. Not going to be easy to get it off. Looks like the upper intake has to come out but I’m going to try to avoid doing that
love to know were you can get the hose been trying everywere nobody can get it
Ford and resellers of 'genuine' parts basically.
@@CraigsDIY managed to track one down mate £50 scandless for wee hose lol
I just checked my invoice, I paid £15, that's for #1119272 so check as there are different sizes, but try endonservices.co.uk they resell Ford parts.
@@CraigsDIY thanks craig all i could get was the one at 50 from vospers ford parts sure that be it done well ready to go anyway
Hi Craig, my name is Iqbal. I am from Indonesia and I have a problem with my 2010 1.8L Mk2 Ford Focus engine. I was trying to clean its intake manifold but there is one hose which connected with brake booster. Could you please inform me how to unplug it? Because, I tried many times to unplug it, it didn't work.
Thank you.
I will send you the video if you need it.
Have a look at how the same is connected on this car, I assume it's the same or similar. ruclips.net/video/vBxm5QjD0PY/видео.html
Pcv hose is cracked but not leaking oil. Could be causing problems.
Yes
Sir, What are your thoughts about relocating the PVC to an acceptable location.. I have a 2006 Ford Focus SE zx4 duratec 2.0L. I am preparing to replace the intake manifold and of course any related components that become accessable in the process. I know I'm asking a lot but if there's any kind of list if procedures to accomplish thisI would appreciate it either way I'm going to do it LOL. The vehicle has a 130,000 it doesn't leak a drop of oil it's a manual transmission I replaced all the CV axles the struts shocks rotors and pads in the front. I've cleaned the mass air and the tmap sensor. And of course all 3 engine mounts. I am also the master of headlight restoration. I've gone through countless minor repairs have been going through all the electrical connections using dielectric lube electrical tape tie wraps. She's looking good. Anyway if you could help me with that I would be in your debt sir.
To relocate the PCV? Honestly I'm not sure. It's not that difficult a job to take of the IM, and as much as it's a pain to access the PCV, it's probably easier to accept doing that once or twice in the car's life as opposed to all the work and possible complications introduced by modifying it's set-up. You need manifold vacuum and the air/oil separator is where it is on the crankcase. The only thing I'd maybe consider if you really want to upgrade it, would be installing a catch can, if you extended the hoses so as to place the can somewhere sensible. You could also shift the PCV valve away at the same time but it's possible this would disturb its pressure specification.
However again this is really giving yourself a make-work program. As explained in my video(s), the Duratec inbuilt air/oil separator was modified by Ford a few times along with the PCV valve and the hose to the intake manifold, so you could check what version you have and upgrade it to the latest iteration if not already. I have the earliest and hence 'worst' version, and even after 100,000+ km when I took the IM off there wasn't too much oil in its bulb. You will still eventually have to take off the IM for one reason or another, e.g. replacing the gaskets, so I suggest you just do the valve and hose as a maintenance item on those rare occasions.
Any one know where i can find that grommet for a 2009 ford focus ses? looked everywhere but no dice, thxz!
you can try search on e-bay relating the PCV part number; other kits for other cars come already with the grommet in the same package, i dont know why Ford did not include it with the PCV valve; good luck!!!
Wish I knew it 2 weeks ago
my 2.0 duratec he engine has got some serious idle issues.. at start up It rews up to 3500 rpm and slowly goes down again to about 1100 rpm and stays there. same issues when driving and shifting gears it revs again when I make a halt .. could this be the issue? before this problem the car didn't accelerate very well but after changing the intake solenoid switches and mounting a intake filter kit , it ran like a dream. good acceleration and so on... but now this issue... it even says " engine system malfunction " on the display and behaves like a rapid dog until I turn the ignition off and on again.. and then nothing.. comes and goes from day to day. should I chek this put and also tjek the intake flaps? ..the throttle body is clean as a whistle and the sparkplugs too . and the small vacuum hose at the manifold top is removed at blocked and it stopped rattling.
Allan Jørgensen hi my car was doing same rew up randomly sometimes when stop at trafic lights after driving . I discovered that my chain was stretched out like 2-3 cm so I got new timing chain problem disappear. no more rew up ever since
I had this same problem and had it fixed. the problem was a leak somewhere in the intake manifold. Apparently I found out that there is a design flaw with this manifold and it is a common problem. I got a used manifold from the wreckers but there were components missing from it so sent it back. My mechanic was able to fix the issue using a glue gun and he fixed it perfect.
Hello weird but true，
My 2.0 DURATEC HE has same problem as your one. It's serious idle issues more than your one.. at start up It rews up to 4000 rpm and slowly goes down again to about 1500 rpm and stays there. same issues when driving and shifting gears, it revs again when I make a halt. the throttle body is clean.
Could you tell me how you can fix this issue?
Hey I have the same problem how did you fix ? Unsure what to try first.
Is there any chance to replace or clean the PCV valve without removing the intake manifold?
Well it's physically possible but you'll need small hands!
man i neded that grommet part number asap
is it same for focus 2009 1,8 duretec HE?
Should be similar.
Craig's DIY Car it is, flaps are fucked up too, I cant find part number for my intake so i will take them out probably.
In short, a pain in the backside to do !! that's of course not withstanding a good video :)
Why do they put engine "covers" on them, to make it look awesome? Because those $5 pieces of plastic just added $500 (or more) to the MSRP.
Could you please tell me the part number for the valve?
The link I usually use for parts is down atm sorry. There is no single number to give because of the variations in the design, particularly the PCV system, so you have to either match the existing part or upgrade the entire assembly. And unless you are the owner from new, you can't be sure it wasn't already upgraded.
Hi Craig, yesterday I replaced the PCV valve and hose on my Mondeo mk3 Duratec 1.8 petrol. Unfortunately it did not solve the symtoms I have on my car. What is happening? When I start the car the idle speed is around 1.800 instead of 800 and when I slightly push the accelaration pedal and remove my feed quickly the speed increases to 4.000 and higher and the car runs out of control. I have to turn of the engine to prevend damage. When I disconnect the idle air control valve the idle speed is and stays on 800 (airco off).
So with help of your video's I did the following;
- removed the swirl flaps (last year)
- replaced the idle air control valve
- replaced the T-Map sensor
- replaced the PCV valve and hose
- cleaned the throttle body
- inspected the throttle position sensor
- checked for vacuum leaks
None of this helped. It seems to me that the Engine Control Unit instruct the ACV to open wrongly. Is my ECU broken? When I check the self diagnose it shows under dtc dt5670. I have no clue, do you have any ideas perhaps?
Thanks!
Kind regards Richard
I'm afraid you're getting into complexity beyond my abilities, especially over the internet. I suppose you would need to start accumulating more data. Have you checked basic things like the throttle cable not sticking, you said you checked the TPS but have you monitored it to check for smooth feedback. As to vacuum leaks, the worst would be at the intake manifold to head join where it is unmetered, so maybe take off the IM and check/replace the gaskets and re-torque the bolts - e.g. did you create a leak when doing the flaps and re-using old hardened gaskets. Finally you need to get a better picture of what's happening by watching the EFI on scan tool, is the engine running lean etc, also check error codes - sensible interpretation of those tea leaves can reveal a lot without ever touching a component.
Hello Craig, the flaps thing was a year ago and the car was running fine afterwards. The current issue I have since 4 weeks. No errorcodes. With Forscan I have checked the trottle position sensor. Looking at the voltages (0,83 at idle) the TPS seems okay. Can you please check these video's (you'll hear a strange voice, I have a speech disorder); ruclips.net/video/_-k6KPc2U70/видео.html the IAC is connected, the car is driving my feet is off the gas pedal. The RPM is increasing. In my opinion the IAC % should be 0% because the RPM is above 800. But the IAC is between 40-60% open!
This video ruclips.net/video/lb1JSWq0Jdc/видео.html the IAC is connected, the car should be at idle (my feet is off the gas pedal, not in a gear). When I start the car the RPM increases to >4.000 RPM. In my opinion the IAC % should be 0% because the RPM is above 800. But the IAC is 35% open!
It seems to me that the Engine Control Unit instruct the ACV to open wrongly. Is my ECU broken? I have no clue, do you have any ideas perhaps?
Hi again, sorry for the delay, I wanted to check my own telemetry. No the IACV %'s are normal, mine are raised along with the throttle and lowered down to about 40% at idle, down to maybe 30% when the engine is hot. If you look at IAC_MODE you can see it switching between DASHPOT (idle) and PREPOSITION (throttle), it has something to do with smoothing the throttle on/off transition.
Hi Craig, thanks for your time. I'll think you are right. What I also have noticed, which I think is weird, is that I have 12 volt continue on the IAC wires (the end which connect to the IAC) when the engine is off. That is not normal?
Hallo Richard,
Ik heb gisteren een Ford Mondeo 2.0 uit 2005 gekocht Het lijkt erop dat mijn auto exact hetzelfde probleem heeft. Ik ging er van uit dat een klein iets zou zijn (vacuumslangetje oid) en dan is het weer klaar. Maar nu lees ik jouw verhaal hier...en dan ben ik er nog niet zo zeker van dat het makkelijk en snel is opgelost. Ik heb de auto sinds gisteren en heb er dus nog niks aan gedaan. Heb jij het probleem inmiddels verholpen?
Gr Klaas
i cant find part # for my duratec he 1.8 88kw, do you know it?
Found it! 4M5G-6A666-HA or 1251743
Hi, the same code is fit on 1.8 92kw (125hp) mk3 B5Y benzin?
I wonder if the CRC INTAKE VALVE CLEANER also cleans the PCV valve... does anyone know?
Many thanks Craig for your sharing knowledge,
I know nothing before watching your videos. After that, I know how my car works.
I have applied what you showed to my 2004 Mondeo 2.0 Petrol Wagon, which has serious idle issue. at start up It rews up to 4000rpm and slowly goes down again to about 1500 rpm and stays there. same issues when driving and shifting gears, it revs again when I make a halt.
Following your videos, I have done,
How to: Clean & replace throttle body Ford Duratec HE
How to: replace a throttle position sensor
How to: Clean & replace Idle Air Control Valve Ford Duratec HE
How to: Clean & replace T-MAP sensor Ford Duratec
However, those things can't fix my serious idle problem.
Could you please give me any suggestion?
Best regards,
John
You probably have a vacuum leak after the throttle body. Alternatively, maybe a problem with the TPS or IACV. You need to diagnose further before replacing parts, with a scan tool, then search for air leaks.
Thanks Craig,
The new TPS has been replaced.
Also, I have done a test on IACV. When the engine is warm and running steady around 1500 rpm, I tried to disconnect the IACV but it's not noticeable, should not the rpm decrease or engine stall if I disconnect it? So I think the IACV is working OK.
I have done a test on blocking the throttle body and the air pipe to Crankcase. When the engine is warm and running steady around 1500 rpm, I tried to block the throttle body and the air pipe to Crankcase but it's not noticeable, should not the rpm decrease?
I have not a scan tool to search for air leaks. Maybe later.
There are no parts for a vacuum hose and a PCV valve on Amazon & eBay. My reg is CKH545.
1500 RPM is too high for idle. Not sure what you mean by blocking the TB as the butterfly valve blocks it always when throttled (at idle), IACV is open at idle and progressively closed at increasing revs. You probably have an air leak, just search for it manually. Can you hear hissing, particularly after killing engine (as pressure equalizes). Common failure is the PCV hose as you mention. If not that try soapy water on other joints.
Following your instruction, I did hear the hissing and I saw the white smoke/steam coming out. Are you in AKL? if I come to see you, can you fix it for me? How much does it cost?
Thanks Craig, yes, it's a vacuum leak after the throttle body. Following your instruction, the new PCV parts have been replaced. The idle is 750 RPM now
Refer to: www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1860939484
Hi Craig, greetings from Brazil!
I have a problem with my Focus MK2,5 2.0L Duratec Petrol. The issue is that I'm getting oil on the spark plugs of cylinders #3 and #4.
I'll check about valve leaking and cylinder's rings leak but I would like to know if the oil on the spark plugs could be caused by a bad PCV valve or hose?
There is no valve's cover leak.
Thanks in advance.
You mean oil in the plug wells? This should come from leaking cover gasket rings (around the plugs), it might not be obvious to look at if a slow leak at high temperature. A failed PCV can cause additional pressure that can blow out the gasket(s).
The spark plugs of cylinders 3 and 4 are having oil in their threads, there is no oil in the electrodes.
The ignition coils(boots) have no oil, no leakage in the valve cover gasket.
see the video I made.
ruclips.net/video/_8RzfluUCKk/видео.html
Do you think it could be caused by a plug with under torque? But the oil comes from where?
What is the torque recommendation for the duratec plugs? I'm using 20 N.m.
Thank you!
It's possible apparently that this is unburned fuel, not oil, but I'm unsure sorry. About valves & rings I would expect other symptoms, e.g. smoke from exhaust.
Torque should be 15 nm max I believe, a little less with anti-seize.
Oil from the top can only come from a leaking valve cover, but the seal on the plug is made above the threads - however in the scenario of a tiny bit of oil pooling at the bottom of the wells, the oil could of course migrate down onto the threads as you remove them.
You also don't seem to have any evidence of oil being burnt in the cylinder (tip is not blackened).
If it isn't using oil and is performing ok I wouldn't worry about it unless/until you get worse symptoms.
ill never buy a ford again because of the crazy location of parts that need replacing and u have to take apart the intake manifold,,,is nonsense
Well seeing as it's a MAZDA engine you're throwing blame in the wrong direction! Volvo also used this engine (not on their current range of cars).
I fill oil every 400km almost 4 years its so stupid that they put it therr
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