1997 Ford Ranger 3.0L Water Pump Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- 1997 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 replaced a water pump with a noisy bearing. Pretty simple job other than moving the A/C and power steering bracket over to reach the water pump bolts.
#repair #fordranger #ford #garage #cars
Thank you so much for this video and to the way someone like me can understand I'm recently widowed and don't have the money to pay someone to change the water pump for me so I am doing it my self I watched my husband and uncles work on vehicle so I know how to change different thing thisvwill be the first water pump though and I think I can do it thanks to this video you guys are a blessing right now thanks thanks thanks
Welcome hopes it helps
Best video out there, you made it look easy. I DIY with European cars routinely and they are easier than this. What a pain. I think I overtightened the pump bolts and ripped the paper thin gasket which leaked all over. I didn't know it only needed 8 ft lbs! So I had to undo EVERYTHING again and put high temp gasket maker on there. PRO TIP: Fill the radiator *before* putting everything back together to check if the pump is leaking.
@Bizija123 sorry you has to do it twice man. Glad the video helped
Nice Job!!
Thanks!
@@treyhaberman your welcome!
Great video man. Just finished up my trucks water pump
Glad it helped man
Thanks nice explanation of everything 👍. I have a feeling im next lol
No problem, bud. Good luck. You got this.
Great video really appreciate it
Thanks bud
Depending on model year you may have wire brackets on some of those tensioner bracket nuts. My 03 Ranger had them on the two behind the power steering pump.
Thanks for the comment
How do you keep water pump pulley from spinning when trying to break the fan loose? Righty loosey is spinning the pulley, no tension.
@@PH03NiX24 if it isn't seized, then you can leave the belt on and use a hammer and a wrench and just do fast hits with it.
If it is seized, then you can stick a small pipe wrench or vice grips behind the pulley to hold tension on it.
I'm doing this job right now on a 97 V6. I think I'd rather do my 5.7 Triton timing again than this water pump nightmare. Having to remove all the AC/PS because the bolts back behind is typical Ford "remove half the engine to get to one bolt" insanity.
Thanks for the vid. I was looking for information how to get at those no-see-um bolts and to confirm how much crap I have to take off to get to them. Your vid confirmed what I have to do... get more beer!
Gonna be a long day... :(
Lol, yea more beer and take your time. The ratchet strap to hold the bracket out if the way really helped.
Good luck
@@treyhabermanhey I'm just now doing my 98 ranger 3.0 . The alternator doesn't have to be removed right "
I think our 96 Ranger water pump failed today. This look's like a pain to get to, and reassemble afterward
Just be patient and tackle one thing at a time. You got this.
@@treyhaberman Not really... We've been moving, all my tool's are moved already. Plus it's supposed to rain all week. Worse, we have to be out by the 28th. 😡
@@treyhaberman Unfortunately time is against us now. I replaced the water pump on my 89 GTA. It looks easier than the Ranger engine setup honestly.
Thank you.. i have a 95 3.0 liter and i need to do this because i almost have the pink milkshake(atf in collabt due to rad failure). Im replacing the rad , water pump and older parts. My question...can an air cooler be put on the 1995? ..is there enough room? The condenser is very close?
Plus, if the clutch nut is now circular and heavily rusted, what's the best gripper to turn it?
I have put an auxiliary cooler on a suburban, but I don't think its really needed for a ranger unless heavy towing.
I would use a mini pipe wrench to help hold the pulley and then use a hammer and give the wrench some hits
@@treyhabermantks .I assume 'i'll put a pipe wrench on the rounded off clutch bolt, also. An official clutch Wrench just slides around the rounded bolt
@ballershanelle I usually close the pipe wrench almost all the way and slip it behind the lip of the water pump pulley. Usually that and leaving the belt on gives enough friction to hammer the wrench on the fan
Did both bolts in the back of the air conditioner bracket have a head on the engine side with a threaded stud and nut coming out of the top? If they're the ones I think they are one stud steadies a tube and the other the starter cable.
Man, it's been a bit since I worked on it, but the bolts that went all the way through were just for the ac compressor itself
Thank you for your quick response and for pointing out the locations of the bracket bolts coming through from the drivers side of the bracket. Good video!
@@oldoldpilgrim7898 welcome buddy
I’ve had to use a strap on one of my pump jobs too
Just got to make sure it's big enough to get the job done, but you don't want a rip.
clutch fan would not come off for the life of me
Yes sir, I've had some tough ones that I had to use heat on
I have the same problem with my ranger as well
@@georgemanley6421 still can't get it?
@@treyhaberman currently I can't drive my ranger since it leaks oil from the rear seal then clutch starts to slip
Is the 93 4.0 the same procedure?
Yes sir, should be a little easier though. I don't remember having to move that big bracket.
That didn’t answer my question.
@@treyhaberman I hope so. This is my next project.
@joeysowell116 I just meant I have done an older 4.0l and the steps are similar. I don't remember having to move the big bracket like I did in this video, so the job should be a little easier.