1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 liter V6 water pump replacement. Part 1. Removal of the old water pump.
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This is part 1 of the replacement of the water pump on a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 liter flex fuel V6 engine. The installation will be listed as part 2 here: • 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 l... . Good luck. If you find this video useful, please hit the like button and subscribe especially if you think I might post something else useful to you, or you just need a laugh now and then. Thanks. April 2024 update: Since I apparently left out at least one important step, sorry I'm not sure how that happened, check the comments below. There are replies that cover at least the fan removal. There is also tool for that. I'll do a video on just that eventually. Thanks to all who comment and add instructions. The community is a very important resource.
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Have a great day. Keep in mind, if I can do it, you probably can too.
Really helpful video. Thanks for taking the time to make it! Im going to be tackling this on my '01 Ranger next weekend.
well explained, very detail, Thank you
You skipped the whole part of removing the fan. That was the part that I needed to see. So many of you guys leave out the part I need to see. Pisses me off! I stuffed rags between the belts and the pulleys so it wouldn't turn. When I turned the wrench on that big nut, it just turned and turned and the fan didn't cone of the shaft. The shaft kept turning all along its length even though the belts were held stationary.
A small pipe wrench with the teeth biting the lip of the grooved water pump pully works just fine. It will stop it from turning while you tap the reverse-thread nut.
Wow. It looks like there is a segment missing. Very sloppy on my part. I think there is a tool for that avail at Autozone to borrow. I'll have to go into my vids and see if I can find it. The important issue here is that these are left hand threads.There is a short video on the tube here that shows simply jamming the pulley and using a crescent wrench on it. To break it loose you do need to smack it to break it loose. That makes all the difference in the world. Sorry I'll see if I can add it. Thanks for the heads up.
Remove two of the four bolts that hold the water pump pulley in place. Go to your local hardware and purchase two of the same thread type bolts, but 1-1/2 inch in length. Then thread these two longer bolts back into the pulley. This will allow you to go behind the pulley with a large screw driver. Place the screw driver in between these bolts, and use a large adjustable wrench to break loose the fan shaft. You turn the wrench to the right to loosen the blade. Once loosened, you can remove by hand. Prior to removing the fan, I cut a piece of cardboard and placed between the fan shroud to protect the radiator coil from incurring damage. To allow easier access to the (2) rear bolts that hold the Compressor & Power Steering Bracket, remove the Driver's side Tire. You can then use a Ratchet and extension to easily access these two bolts.
Awesome video
Thanks. I think I may have missed a step but maybe next time.
Just did it 😊
Great. Hope I helped a bit. Thanks.
My Ranger ain't neva left me stranded whereas my Chevy S10 ...can't keep that hunk of metal shit runnin.
Well I can only really comment on my Tahoe with it's mighty V8. In the 70's I had a 327 powered Camaro and it was unbreakable. Actually now that I think about it, I had an S10 Blazer with a 2.8. Other than having no balls, it was pretty decent. I have to admit, I had 3 '99 Ford's enter my life at once, and despite Ford not being able to decide on SAE or Metric hardware, using both, they were/are pretty easy to work on. 3.0 liter, and a 4.0 liter V6s and a 4.6 liter V8 have/had they. There must be a reason there are so many Ford trucks on the road. Despite my whining, they are solid machines, especially the older ones. They are hard to kill. My current ride is a '96 Chevy Tahoe with 327K miles. I hope to make 500K. Thanks.
Or a socket and long extencen
10 mm socket and a breaker bar
10:00 wp pulley wheel.
Saludos, hay que echar el compresor a un lado para sacar los tornillos que quedan detrás del tensor o sacando el tensor solamente?
Al ver el video, no parece que se haya tenido que mover el compresor. Gracias.
You’re doing too much you don’t have to remove the radiator to remove the fan, shroud and water pump.
It's not a big deal to pull it and give yourself more room. Every time I've squeezed in to work against a radiator I think I've banged into it and bent the fins. I like the room without worrying about it. I haven't tried that but no doubt it can be done. Thanks for the comment, someone out there might want to do it that way. It's good to know that it's possible. Comments are one of the most valuable resources this forum has to offer. Tips from those who are actually doing the work can be the difference between success and failure or a simple repair vs a financial disaster. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@teammudshark6894 I prefer to have the extra room as well 👍🏽
I don’t remember having all the metric bolts on my ‘89 Ranger. Is it the Mazda connection ?
So you have hit upon my main issue with Ford. For some reason they use a mix of SAE and Metric hardware spread out over the entire engine. It would be nice if they would keep it one or the other. I think you may have part of the answer. The Mazda connection. In this case at least. I ran into this a bunch on my '99 E150 van. Can't explain that one. I thought Ford was built in America. Just keep it in mind when the sockets/wrenches don't fit quite right. No problem for 1/2"/13mm but some others don't match up so good. Thanks.
How do you get the pulley off of the old water pump seriously need help thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry, I don't know how I missed that part. I know I have that clip somewhere. I hope you were able to find the info here on youtube. There are several methods. I used the special tool avail at Autozone.
I was hoping to see some better pics and removal of the bolts at the back of the A/C compressor. Seems like all the videos skip it, or gloss over it. Guess I look at microfish for a better depiction of them.
What sealant did you use on the waterpump sealant/thread sealer?
It's actually "water pump and thermostat gasket sealer". Comes in a small tube. This video shows it. studio.ruclips.net/user/videodTBONMM6Xuw/edit Thanks.
i use red RTV
You're not mechanic why you put your self in RUclips isn't right boy
Why did you just work on water pump stop messing some else your ain't that good mechanic.
💕 "PromoSM"