The printer runs TPU just fine, but it will jam up the AMS. With one of the recent updates it will error if you try to print with TPU in the AMS. Additionally, you really should not run abrasive filaments through the AMS like carbon infused filaments etc. They will wear out the drive gears and filament paths pretty quickly.
FINALLY the 3D printer that I can actually justify. I'm all about hardcore nerding out, especially with bleeding edge tech, but I'm not trying to get a 3D printer as a toy so I've avoided not hardcore nerding out over specs, component choices, design preferences, etc. I just want something that is a 3D printer, not an 'enthusiast tech toy', I already have plenty of those and really can't take anymore on in my life. I can go deep into engines, modern racing ECUs & tuning, high end PCs, among some other interests, but I've went out of my way to avoid having that level of knowledge with smartphones and 3D printers - I don't want to be always breaking them cuz I gotta turn knobs and flip switches, I just need them to do their job lol.
Prusa from the MK3 at least was basically there. The Bambu AMS is probably better than the MMU2 but they've just announced the MMU3 and MK4 to be competitive. Biggest difference is the included enclosure (Prusa you'd buy separately which still makes the Bambu a better option for the price unless you are a person with IP and ITAR concerns) that helps when printing ABS and Nylon.
I have two, love love them. It is the best 3D printer I have owned out of many. Now with over 400 prefect prints. I got both P1P and X1 with AMS on both. Use them everyday.
My Voron 2.4r2 4 times faster as well but it is a diy printer. I would go for a Voron again because of the 350mm build plate and a diy heated chamber. But for someone how don’t want or have time to tune and build a Voron the Bambo X-1 is a very good Printer.
Markforged supports PLA now, use any pla in it. 200 dollars a roll for parts that are strong enough to handle really powerful mechanical forces is not bad. That same chopped fiber nylon filament is only 20 percent cheaper via other outlets and the markforged brand comes GAURENTEED dry. The cost of the Markforged machine up front 20 THOUSAND dollers, now that is the real problem. Not the fillament cost. I run a markforged mark 2 and its a beautiful piece of work.
I freaking love mine! I've been printing ABS with 0 problems, crazy. I'd love to buy a few more but can't figure out how to market for some 3D printing jobs. BTW for those interested, regarding the Wifi and transfering jobs and such. You DO NOT have to use the "cloud" You can transfer using the tried and true method of the micro SD card. I don't even have internet at my shop and I can still use it.
I have had an X1 Carbon for almost 5 months with no problems. It has just always worked. I have 6 other printers that I have modified and tweaked to get what I want, but the Bambu Lab printer has been working as is. I'm sure more Bambu Lab printers are in my future.
On straight lines the ringing from the belt at lower speeds is a no-go. If they switch out the idler to toothed or increase the diameter to the belt manufacturers minimum spec then I'll reconsider. Lookup up VFA Bambu.
The cool plate is in backwards. You will want to turn it around before printing. the nozzle cleans itself using the small stepped bit in the middle at the rear of the plate. hope this was of some help to you.
Ive played with some matter hackers filaments - they work great, but the defaults (temp, retraction, etc) need to be taken from the data sheet with the filament and the defaults in the slicer for the various marerials are just slightly off. If theres a material you like, spending a little time dialing it in and then saving a config for it is always fair game (you do it for cutting tools, right?)
You don’t need to use their cloud for printing. You can switch it to LAN mode (or use the SD card but that’s a pain). Of course if you want to print outside your network it needs to use the Bambu cloud. Also I have been using eSun PLA+ and it’s been working perfectly using the Generic PLA profile with no settings changed. Once my rolls of eSun are used up I will be buying their filament only. It has the RFID on the spool so it’s a lot smarter and it’s very reasonably priced. Only about $1 more per roll compared to eSun for me in Europe.
I've had mine for five months and it just works. Other than basic maintenance and the occasional teardown/rebuild of the AMS, it's plug and play. So much less down time than the rest of my printers. I am hoping they come out with a large format version soon.
To help you with supports you can use an Interface layer with either the Support Filament oder PLA PETG since they do not adhere to one another. Then you can also decrease the distance to the Support Layer to 0 and get better lower layers where support is used.
finally a source i really trust , and yeah ill likely get one as well i have 2 as well, but fancy a "prosumer" grade pronter for materials lile nylon and asa/abs
Order the xl day 1. waited 2 years and cancelled both my pre orders. 6 months later re ordered. I think nearly 3 years now? I am told my last pre order may ship in a month. In the mean time have just ordered the x1c as I really want to move on NOW with things. I love my 5x Prusa mk3s+ bears with Bondtech sls extruders farm but have sold them off and only have 1 left while waiting for the x1c. I think I will farm with x1c printers and hopefully one day/year get the XL with tool changing heads for a better MM unit and large build size. best of both worlds. Downloaded Bambu studio an hour ago and after using Prusa slicer for years it took all of about 10 mins to glance and feel comfortable its basically the same and I will easily move to it once i get my new x1c.
Yeah, they do print fast, they are fairly reliable when you get a printer from a right batch but knowing that you are an enterpreneur that worked hard to get to your position, it is disappointing to see you endorse a Chinese company that acts as shady as they do. Stealing IP, violating license terms, not providing customer support, not providing access to spare parts, which can turn your printer into an expensive paperweight - these are typical for Chinese (not only Bambu), but the world got used to it far too easily. Nevertheless, I hope to see a follow-up sometime in the future.
What is the dual extruder printer next to the Bambu? Do you recommend that as a good dual extruder? Seems that's the way to go for printing with dissolvable support filament, ya?
They give you a glue stick or advise the use of similar not to get your object to stick but to provide a sacrificial layer between the item and the bed as they KNOW it will stick too well otherwise.
Cardboard spools work flawlessly. I have used them from multiple brands and not had a single issue, I'm not sure if it's because my AMS is a newer revision or something. I have heard the same from many other people as well.
Cardboard spools will work, that's not so much the issue. What is the issue is the cardboard spools create dust which will get in all the other components of the AMS
I was an early backer on this from Kickstarter. I have printed hundreds of prints in PLA and PETG without a single failure. I do recommend 3DLAC as a plate adhesive.
uh oh!! ya done it, again!! I am in the market for my first 3d printer; its been said (MakersMuse for one) 2023 will begin another 3d printer re-evolution; was looking at the prusa line as well but just for the enclosure is three hundred plus and yes they are excellent systems I would hope to agree but for a first 3d printer setup on a hobby level can't justify over $1K+; will definitely research reviews on this Bambu Lab x1--definitely speed isn't crucial for me either if ya running out of juice (gas, diesel, or electric, and filament!) with no built-in pause in the running program to reload and resume!! Thanks for another inspiring vid!! Its your presentation style; we're listening, learning--what's your thoughts on a laptop running CAD type software--if ya have a previous somewhat current vid on the topic?
Wow your shop is looking great. I love the X1C, there’s a nice little scraper you can print right from the printers built in memory. They included a metal blade in your box that screws on to it, too - works perfectly for removing the test strips it prints. Check it out! ✌️
Congrats on your purchase! I'm lucky to have both the X1C and the P1P and if you don't need the enclosure, for printing more exotic filaments, the P1P is just as accurate and easier to access when needed.
@@murc111 I assume like carbon fiber and other high temp filaments. If you only print in PLA and other low temp filaments then the P1P is probably fine.
Hey! I've been watching your tour vids a lot and I wanted to recommend traveling to Norway to Aarbakke AS it's a large CNC-factory in the Stavanger region with around 300 employees! I live in the area and have been there two times and it's amazing
then again, after full review of your vid, too many proprietary features noted here...back to the prusa brand and enclosure a bit less expensive for the long run and printing needs---still great review here much appreciate your time!!
Hmm i only buy idex anymore and certainly not something extremely unserviceable. Guess it’s great as long as nothing breaks then you probably buy a new one. Markforged is way to expensive in terms of filament but i think they are on3 of the only ones that can do continues fiber.
The plastic scraper is in the memory of the printer. The things that puzzle are in the very short assembly instructions. Use the glue as recommended to make the prints easily removable, that’s it purpose.
To run dissimilar filaments for support you NEED 2 different nozzles. You end up mixing the filament and making the print fail after removing the washable supports.
I have so many rolls of existing filament that I felt compelled to try to use them up with this printer. PLA, ABS, even some carbon fiber. i’ve had no problem at all with any of them just using the standard presets for the generic materials. I did purchase several rolls of bambu filament just to compare and can’t see a huge difference. I really haven’t had to make any preset changes.I’m in love with the X1C. I have found that using textured bed has been one of the best moves I’ve made. It just works print after print after print with all the materials I use. PC with CF, ABS,PLA all work great.
You need to buy the PEI plate - it is a game changer, and I really hope that you do tests to use the printer for fixtures. I am very interested in what you can use it for!
When I was at your school in February, I talked with Alex about the Bambu printer I had and how great it was to prototype in the shop so quickly. He apparently wasn’t familiar with it, but looks like you decided to get one. It’s a great tool, well made, easy to use and reliable. By the way, really loved the school! Vince and Alex were so helpful and I definitely left with a lot more than I came in with. Thanks for all you do.
Excellent quick video. We just got ours 3 months ago and we’re supper happy with it. I have it permanently in my hobby machine shop. Very excited to see what you guys will do with it.
FYI i think the dissolvable filament is too soft for the cutter to cut and get jammed, if you need breakaway support from PLA or PETG use the other and it works great, you do have to tell the AMS that they are the same filament and then set one of them to the interference layer in the slicer. Also just watch out using carbon materials in the AMS, it does wear the parts so it is possible but just be aware you may need to have some replacement parts ready.
@@redone823 I built my MR1 myself in my garage but you could really build it anywhere but once the concrete sets its kind of difficult to move around the machine around so its geared more toward a garage machine (not a living room mill)
I totally get that "It just works" approach. 3D Printers can be hard and if you don't want to spend time printing and are just laser focused on the outcome, this is definitely the way to go. What I can't get behind though is the cloud aspect. I Hope this Printer also supports Local printing via USB or SD-Card, because if it is cloud only, it might turn into a brick in a few years. I much prefer a locally hosted and independent solution like Octoprint, which I honestly do not find hard to setup at all, you basically install the image, connect the printer, webcam and it is good to go. In my experience it has also been 100% dependable, never had a crash or glitch in the many years i've been using it.
@@idnarbjm thats good. I still would not want a 3D Printer that connects to some cloudservice, let alone in china. He did adress that though, so i guess it's fine.
I understand the worry with the cloud aspect, and it is not needed for most, but I have found it has really been a game changer if you run multiple machines in different locations. I have one at home and one at the factory. I get the remote monitoring and controls, plus all the settings and profiles in the slicer shared across both locations. I can validate prints at home, send to the factory, do final checks there, update profile, then work with the same setup at home. It great.
@@scott185 I'm not saying it is not convinient, I'm sure it is! I'd rather trade a bit of convinience in order to not be required to send all of my data through a server and not know what happens to it. Maybe if you are messing around at home printing fun little widgets and brackets it might not matter, but a production shop sending their ressources to china is just asking for trouble. It might be that they really respect your data and will keep the service alive for many years to come, but you just can't be sure unless you avoid products like that. Each to their own though, i don't judge at all, I just have my priorities different than others, but I know I'm not alone either :) EDIT: I can start a print from anywhere in the world right from the slicer aswell by the way, using open source software: Cura, Homeassistant, Octoprint, Wireguard, Marlin.
@red one I got it in like 4 days later. I've been running mine non-stop since I got it. The speed and quality of the prints is insane. I only use my prusa for really small prints that are like 10 minutes and under or if my bambu is tied up printing something. My wife wanted a castle that on my Ender was 5.5 days at 10" tall and .20mm layer height. My Prusa only prints a little over 8" tall but it was 3.75 days at max height on the Prusa. My bambu printed it at 10.15" tall at .16mm layer height in 23 hours. The quality of the print is hands down better than my Prusa and my Ender can achieve even after a few hundred in mods with my Ender.
@spydergs07 thanks for the info. I got a prusa mini plus that I've been running for 2 days before finding bambu lab printers. It looks like the mini plus is gonna turn into a side dish as well. I guess I should be thankful I'm not 60+ printers deep like some people are that are switching over to this.
@red one right lol I was only two FDM printers and 1 SLA printer in before I got my bambu. My resin printer still has a spot but my ender is a paperweight now. I tweaked it a bit more but I'm tired of tinkering with it and still not get the results of my prusa or bambu. My prusa is good for small quick prototypes. Bambu does have like a 5 min startup process for bed leveling and checking the first layer, but it's worth that 5 minutes for such a good print.
Huge issue with these BL printers, that nobody talks about, is the motion system is non serviceable and is epoxied into place. When the graphite in the bushings wears away (as show by all the graphite dust on the X axis rods), you're left with abrasive aluminum bronze bushings wearing down into the CF rods. Bambu lab doesn't sell replacement rods or bushing/bearings and they don't want the user to service the motion system system (their own words). They want you to send it in for repair. Bambu lab also seems to think warped build plates are "normal", as they said themselves when so many people complained about receiving printers with warped build plates.
@@hateca1 It seems like it varies, since the QC on the BL printers is all over the place. Some have reported excessive toolhead slop in just a few hundred hours, others after a couple thousand. But BL has just been replacing printers when the bushings wear out right now. But that's only because they're all in warranty. When the warranty is up, you have to start sending them in for repair, probably back overseas since there is no repair facility here in the US. Bambu lab had to address their QC problems like warped build plates and toohead slop/bushing wear in a blog post recently, and really it was just them skirting around the problems.
Yeah, i think these are IGUS Bushings, but when they are glued is complete BS. Another Probleme is the wear of the PTFE Lines, the filament grindes the Tube and the debree get clogged in the Nozzle...
@@hateca1 I knew, as soon as something negative was said, a Bambu Baby would come crying because he wants to justify his purchase on a Chinese non-open source printer
@@TMS5100 It still goes through their cloud servers, then back to the SD card. So rather than slicer > SD card > print....its slicer > cloud > SD card > print...So BL ends up getting a copy of everything you slice, if they really wanted.
@@LilApe you're just plain making shit up now. my x1c and laptop have NO connection to the internet. i slice on laptop with no internet connection at all, save to SD card in my laptop, take the sd card out of my laptop and take it to the x1c, plug the sd into the printer, and print from the SD card. if what you claim is true, i wouldn't be able to print at all. i print this way to prevent sending any data to BL, for that exact reason. it does work despite your claims otherwise.
@@TMS5100 I'm just repeating what Bambu lab themselves have stated. So no, not making shit up when BL said it themselves. is your X1 connected to the internet? Then BL still has access to your files when you hit print. Unless your printer is also offline, then sure.
did you make sure to get a first layer of glue stick down? it helps with the release from the print bed. with mine i put some glue stick done then use a small lint free damp cloth t make sure i got a nice thin layer ever were.
Coming From prusa printers. Ordering one of these. I ordered the THEKIIIING texture PEI sheet as I ABUSED the hell out of them on my prusa farms and never wore or ruined one and I used metal scrapers to remove the purge lines and brims and never scratched one. The stock Prusa sheets where varied in strength and none ever lasted more than 6 months. the THEKIIIING sheets I still have after years and still are like 98% new.
Just what I needed. Another 20 minute video of some saying the exact same thing as the 200 other videos on here just filibustering instead of showing actual printing and actual use.
Vibration compensation has been around in the 3D printing community for years now. This feature has been exceptionally popular among the folks that use Octoprint, Klipper, Fluidd etc. In fact, most of the Bambulab's features that the people outside of the printing community love so much have been taken from the open source makers' world and put into a nice looking wrapper.
Actually, input shaping just came to marlin back in December, and hasn't ever been part of octoprint as far as I know. Sure klipper has had it for a few years but the barrier to entry there is pretty high. Even with marlin, the process to reconfigure my cr-10 (running an skr1.3) was such a pain in the butt that I never updated it. Not enough of a feature to possibly mess up my entire profile, abl and more. If you're going to try to be a gatekeeper, at least get your facts straight.
@@sirseriously bruh what are you even talking about, I’ve had it on my OctoPi since 2021. And the barrier might be too high for you if you’re so bad you can’t follow the instructions and afraid you can mess it up😉 I don’t need to be the "gatekeeper", seems to be more of your role at this very moment, I’m just giving the guy a quick recap
@@nazariimoroz6216 oh really? Please give me a link to this magical input shaping you have through octoprint, because it doesn't seem to exist anywhere and is still prerelease in marlin. You may have klipper running on a raspberry pi, but that isn't octoprint.
vibration compensation via control shaping techniques dates all the way to the 1950s for cranes to not have their loads swing out and destroy stuff when moving. its not a technology unique to printing. its just only been there for a few years on the front edges of the diy space before going mainstream, most notably in the open source space once it was added to klipper.
Eh. Maybe a fair comparison for the cheaper Bambu P1P vs the Mk4 kit, but once you add the Prusa multiple material add-on the Mk4 (assembled) is at pretty much the same price as the X1-C with the AMS. You still don't get an enclosure (air filtered), dehumidified filament containment, camera, or the superb build quality/presentation the X1-C has. I still LOVE Prusa, but Bambu killer might be a stretch. Curious to see when they announce actual printing speeds too, Prusa only gives a Benchy print time and no real numbers as far as max print speed :/
The Mk4 looks like a very good printer, but I wouldn't call it an X1 killer. The Mk4 is about the same price as an X1 and a fair bit more expensive than the P1P. If you want an enclosure for the Mk4, that's an extra €300. The Mk4 takes up a lot more bench space because it's a bedslinger.
Super excited to see the mk4 released, but I'm going to reserve judgement for when they are in customer hands and being reviewed. At a glance it still looks like it lags behind the X1C, but I want to see it first hand.
The Mk4 is whole lot better than the Mk3, but no Bambu killer. It not just print speed of the Bambu, it's the package as a whole, software and hardware. Using the Bambu at home and now at work has made prototyping and tooling so much quicker and easier. The AMS has also been a game changer and is a well thought out plug and play system. While not perfect, the Bambu is not just a hype machine with gimmicky features, they do work and work well. The AI detection has saved a couple of big print already and successfully detected issues before it became a problem. It notified my phone while I was out, I checked the camera and could see what was going on. I could then pause, stop or resume the print remotely. Luckily I had someone near by that could remove the the issue and let me resume printing. No other printer does this, and its so seamless.
Just got mine. Instead of having a 3d printer project, now i have an actual tool.
Yeah this is why I want one. Still haven't got my v0.1 printing good.
If you want your tool to work the best, you should do it yourself
This. I have too many projects already, I don't need another. The X1C just works; love it
@@DrTimmay this... i have waaaay more projects than time
I've loved the fun of my Ender 3 max. But it's taken a lot of work, and this just works.
The printer runs TPU just fine, but it will jam up the AMS. With one of the recent updates it will error if you try to print with TPU in the AMS. Additionally, you really should not run abrasive filaments through the AMS like carbon infused filaments etc. They will wear out the drive gears and filament paths pretty quickly.
Congratulations, I've had a X1C with 2 AMS for 4 months, no issues. Nothing but fuss-free printing. Good move John.
Your build plate is on backwards. The tab need to be in the back for nozzle cleaning.
FINALLY the 3D printer that I can actually justify. I'm all about hardcore nerding out, especially with bleeding edge tech, but I'm not trying to get a 3D printer as a toy so I've avoided not hardcore nerding out over specs, component choices, design preferences, etc. I just want something that is a 3D printer, not an 'enthusiast tech toy', I already have plenty of those and really can't take anymore on in my life. I can go deep into engines, modern racing ECUs & tuning, high end PCs, among some other interests, but I've went out of my way to avoid having that level of knowledge with smartphones and 3D printers - I don't want to be always breaking them cuz I gotta turn knobs and flip switches, I just need them to do their job lol.
Prusa from the MK3 at least was basically there. The Bambu AMS is probably better than the MMU2 but they've just announced the MMU3 and MK4 to be competitive. Biggest difference is the included enclosure (Prusa you'd buy separately which still makes the Bambu a better option for the price unless you are a person with IP and ITAR concerns) that helps when printing ABS and Nylon.
I'm with you.
I have 2 main brand and I feel they ALL suck.
This is the first printer that justifies the label "industry leader"....
I have two, love love them. It is the best 3D printer I have owned out of many. Now with over 400 prefect prints. I got both P1P and X1 with AMS on both. Use them everyday.
My Voron 2.4r2 4 times faster as well but it is a diy printer. I would go for a Voron again because of the 350mm build plate and a diy heated chamber.
But for someone how don’t want or have time to tune and build a Voron the Bambo X-1 is a very good Printer.
@NYC CNC,
Teaching Tech Just posted a video about optimizing support structures Referencing Bamboo Slicer settings as well.
Careful, nothing triggers a Prusa fan boy more than the word "Bambu" these days.
You should add a shotgun mic to your camera with a fur windscreen cover. Would improve audio quality so much.
Markforged supports PLA now, use any pla in it. 200 dollars a roll for parts that are strong enough to handle really powerful mechanical forces is not bad. That same chopped fiber nylon filament is only 20 percent cheaper via other outlets and the markforged brand comes GAURENTEED dry. The cost of the Markforged machine up front 20 THOUSAND dollers, now that is the real problem. Not the fillament cost. I run a markforged mark 2 and its a beautiful piece of work.
I freaking love mine! I've been printing ABS with 0 problems, crazy. I'd love to buy a few more but can't figure out how to market for some 3D printing jobs. BTW for those interested, regarding the Wifi and transfering jobs and such. You DO NOT have to use the "cloud" You can transfer using the tried and true method of the micro SD card. I don't even have internet at my shop and I can still use it.
Thanks! I haven't seen much of that mentioned, and I don't get good wifi in the garage
Love my Bambu Labs X1. Simply the best and easiest printer to use when I just need it to work.
I have had an X1 Carbon for almost 5 months with no problems. It has just always worked. I have 6 other printers that I have modified and tweaked to get what I want, but the Bambu Lab printer has been working as is. I'm sure more Bambu Lab printers are in my future.
On straight lines the ringing from the belt at lower speeds is a no-go. If they switch out the idler to toothed or increase the diameter to the belt manufacturers minimum spec then I'll reconsider.
Lookup up VFA Bambu.
The cool plate is in backwards. You will want to turn it around before printing. the nozzle cleans itself using the small stepped bit in the middle at the rear of the plate. hope this was of some help to you.
Your build plate was in backwards :P
Love my printer too! FYI you're print plate is in backwards ;)
Ive played with some matter hackers filaments - they work great, but the defaults (temp, retraction, etc) need to be taken from the data sheet with the filament and the defaults in the slicer for the various marerials are just slightly off.
If theres a material you like, spending a little time dialing it in and then saving a config for it is always fair game (you do it for cutting tools, right?)
Wait... Zero Point!!!??? Why have I not seen this yet?
You don’t need to use their cloud for printing. You can switch it to LAN mode (or use the SD card but that’s a pain). Of course if you want to print outside your network it needs to use the Bambu cloud.
Also I have been using eSun PLA+ and it’s been working perfectly using the Generic PLA profile with no settings changed. Once my rolls of eSun are used up I will be buying their filament only. It has the RFID on the spool so it’s a lot smarter and it’s very reasonably priced. Only about $1 more per roll compared to eSun for me in Europe.
I've had mine for five months and it just works. Other than basic maintenance and the occasional teardown/rebuild of the AMS, it's plug and play. So much less down time than the rest of my printers. I am hoping they come out with a large format version soon.
Hey your guys audio sucks lately. With all the love..
Thanks for the video! FYI your steel build plate is in backwards. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees.
To help you with supports you can use an Interface layer with either the Support Filament oder PLA PETG since they do not adhere to one another. Then you can also decrease the distance to the Support Layer to 0 and get better lower layers where support is used.
finally a source i really trust , and yeah ill likely get one as well
i have 2 as well, but fancy a "prosumer" grade pronter for materials lile nylon and asa/abs
Order the xl day 1. waited 2 years and cancelled both my pre orders. 6 months later re ordered. I think nearly 3 years now? I am told my last pre order may ship in a month. In the mean time have just ordered the x1c as I really want to move on NOW with things. I love my 5x Prusa mk3s+ bears with Bondtech sls extruders farm but have sold them off and only have 1 left while waiting for the x1c. I think I will farm with x1c printers and hopefully one day/year get the XL with tool changing heads for a better MM unit and large build size. best of both worlds. Downloaded Bambu studio an hour ago and after using Prusa slicer for years it took all of about 10 mins to glance and feel comfortable its basically the same and I will easily move to it once i get my new x1c.
Is this a paid Ad ?
Yeah, they do print fast, they are fairly reliable when you get a printer from a right batch but knowing that you are an enterpreneur that worked hard to get to your position, it is disappointing to see you endorse a Chinese company that acts as shady as they do. Stealing IP, violating license terms, not providing customer support, not providing access to spare parts, which can turn your printer into an expensive paperweight - these are typical for Chinese (not only Bambu), but the world got used to it far too easily. Nevertheless, I hope to see a follow-up sometime in the future.
What is the dual extruder printer next to the Bambu? Do you recommend that as a good dual extruder? Seems that's the way to go for printing with dissolvable support filament, ya?
Alexa and Siri already spying 24/7 no big deal if your printer does too. 😅
They give you a glue stick or advise the use of similar not to get your object to stick but to provide a sacrificial layer between the item and the bed as they KNOW it will stick too well otherwise.
Cardboard spools work flawlessly. I have used them from multiple brands and not had a single issue, I'm not sure if it's because my AMS is a newer revision or something. I have heard the same from many other people as well.
Same, my "Inland" cardboard rolls from Microcenter work without issues, can't say for other brands tho.
Cardboard spools will work, that's not so much the issue. What is the issue is the cardboard spools create dust which will get in all the other components of the AMS
@@1911zach Exactly. The dust will cause issues
Have you by any chance done an experiment with different filament materials to see how they hold up in coolant soaked environments?
I was an early backer on this from Kickstarter. I have printed hundreds of prints in PLA and PETG without a single failure. I do recommend 3DLAC as a plate adhesive.
Are you also using their filaments? Thanks
@@redone823 I use Bambu Labs and Hatchbox
I am waiting on mine to arrive. My first printer. I just want it to work, yes.
just so you know you had your cool plate 180deg wrong wat round
uh oh!! ya done it, again!! I am in the market for my first 3d printer; its been said (MakersMuse for one) 2023 will begin another 3d printer re-evolution; was looking at the prusa line as well but just for the enclosure is three hundred plus and yes they are excellent systems I would hope to agree but for a first 3d printer setup on a hobby level can't justify over $1K+; will definitely research reviews on this Bambu Lab x1--definitely speed isn't crucial for me either if ya running out of juice (gas, diesel, or electric, and filament!) with no built-in pause in the running program to reload and resume!! Thanks for another inspiring vid!! Its your presentation style; we're listening, learning--what's your thoughts on a laptop running CAD type software--if ya have a previous somewhat current vid on the topic?
For me the X1C is an absolute beast! It just works!
Wow your shop is looking great. I love the X1C, there’s a nice little scraper you can print right from the printers built in memory. They included a metal blade in your box that screws on to it, too - works perfectly for removing the test strips it prints. Check it out! ✌️
I haven't seen his videos for a while and it was really cool to see how far he's gone.
@@MAACotton Yeah same here, been probably 4+ years.
Congrats on your purchase! I'm lucky to have both the X1C and the P1P and if you don't need the enclosure, for printing more exotic filaments, the P1P is just as accurate and easier to access when needed.
please explain "exotic filaments"
@@murc111 I assume like carbon fiber and other high temp filaments. If you only print in PLA and other low temp filaments then the P1P is probably fine.
Hey! I've been watching your tour vids a lot and I wanted to recommend traveling to Norway to Aarbakke AS it's a large CNC-factory in the Stavanger region with around 300 employees! I live in the area and have been there two times and it's amazing
then again, after full review of your vid, too many proprietary features noted here...back to the prusa brand and enclosure a bit less expensive for the long run and printing needs---still great review here much appreciate your time!!
John, use a painters palette knife to remove stubborn prints.
Use the glue! It's to release prints, not to make them stick to the bed.
Can you point us to where to purchase the surface plate in your video? It looks perfectly suited for the job. P.S. Enjoyed your video!
Was looking at this but was leaning to the P1P as I don't need multi color
Hmm i only buy idex anymore and certainly not something extremely unserviceable.
Guess it’s great as long as nothing breaks then you probably buy a new one.
Markforged is way to expensive in terms of filament but i think they are on3 of the only ones that can do continues fiber.
Why not not use water soluble support filament. That would make removing supports easier.
The plastic scraper is in the memory of the printer. The things that puzzle are in the very short assembly instructions. Use the glue as recommended to make the prints easily removable, that’s it purpose.
So, is it a boat anchor of the company goes offline for whatever reason, or can you send it g code directly?
You can still use it with a flashdrive offline
Yes you can use SD cards or Lan only mode.
To run dissimilar filaments for support you NEED 2 different nozzles. You end up mixing the filament and making the print fail after removing the washable supports.
Your plate is in backwards
Spontaneous Synchronization...
I'm surprised that you haven't had strange issues having the printers running on those tables.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
From day 1 of being a 3d printer owner, I wish it "just worked".
I ended up getting both p1p and x1c and still waiting for them to get here, so jelous you have yours already lol
Well there goes the incoming stock for the next year. Thanks John! 😅
I have so many rolls of existing filament that I felt compelled to try to use them up with this printer. PLA, ABS, even some carbon fiber. i’ve had no problem at all with any of them just using the standard presets for the generic materials. I did purchase several rolls of bambu filament just to compare and can’t see a huge difference. I really haven’t had to make any preset changes.I’m in love with the X1C. I have found that using textured bed has been one of the best moves I’ve made. It just works print after print after print with all the materials I use. PC with CF, ABS,PLA all work great.
Just ordered mine!
Are you sponsored by bambulabs or is this an independent review ?
You need to buy the PEI plate - it is a game changer, and I really hope that you do tests to use the printer for fixtures.
I am very interested in what you can use it for!
When I was at your school in February, I talked with Alex about the Bambu printer I had and how great it was to prototype in the shop so quickly. He apparently wasn’t familiar with it, but looks like you decided to get one. It’s a great tool, well made, easy to use and reliable. By the way, really loved the school! Vince and Alex were so helpful and I definitely left with a lot more than I came in with. Thanks for all you do.
I have one and LOVE it. Would not hesitate to buy another!
For the "online" thing it's supposed to work locally if you want
Excellent quick video. We just got ours 3 months ago and we’re supper happy with it. I have it permanently in my hobby machine shop. Very excited to see what you guys will do with it.
The scraper that comes with it saved on the software works great for removing all that stuff. Great printer, would highly recommend!
Thanks for sharing your experience
thank you for supporting chinese businesses!
FYI i think the dissolvable filament is too soft for the cutter to cut and get jammed, if you need breakaway support from PLA or PETG use the other and it works great, you do have to tell the AMS that they are the same filament and then set one of them to the interference layer in the slicer.
Also just watch out using carbon materials in the AMS, it does wear the parts so it is possible but just be aware you may need to have some replacement parts ready.
I run PVA through my AMS on the regular. Works great.
Man I really wish it didn't rely on sending shiz over a Chinese server to use it.
it doesnt. you can print local from sd card. you can use any slicer you want.
I've seen people say that printing different support material on these doesn't work well as it's hard to purge all residue out of the nozzle.
You need to adjust the purge volume, I bump mine to 500 from a default value of 280. Works great!
lol same day as the prusa mk4 announcement
man, If I wasn't saving up for a shop move, I would have bough this printer too. And the Langmuir MR1 used up all my extra monies
Is the MR1 something that can be used at home or requires a shop? Thanks.
@@redone823 I built my MR1 myself in my garage but you could really build it anywhere but once the concrete sets its kind of difficult to move around the machine around so its geared more toward a garage machine (not a living room mill)
does PLA and cnc coolant play along or are there problems (PLA and chemicals not very good friends)?
Pla can be chemically sensitive, whenever we print tooling we use their cf nylon. Tough, strong, chemical resistant.
That is very 💨 fast. Impressive 😅
Now we wait for a daring nerd to create Jailbreak-ish tools for this. Break its connection to servers out of your control.
You can already print in LAN local mode which doesn't use the cloud
I totally get that "It just works" approach. 3D Printers can be hard and if you don't want to spend time printing and are just laser focused on the outcome, this is definitely the way to go. What I can't get behind though is the cloud aspect. I Hope this Printer also supports Local printing via USB or SD-Card, because if it is cloud only, it might turn into a brick in a few years. I much prefer a locally hosted and independent solution like Octoprint, which I honestly do not find hard to setup at all, you basically install the image, connect the printer, webcam and it is good to go. In my experience it has also been 100% dependable, never had a crash or glitch in the many years i've been using it.
You can print localy with the SD card.
@@idnarbjm thats good. I still would not want a 3D Printer that connects to some cloudservice, let alone in china. He did adress that though, so i guess it's fine.
I understand the worry with the cloud aspect, and it is not needed for most, but I have found it has really been a game changer if you run multiple machines in different locations. I have one at home and one at the factory. I get the remote monitoring and controls, plus all the settings and profiles in the slicer shared across both locations. I can validate prints at home, send to the factory, do final checks there, update profile, then work with the same setup at home. It great.
You can print in local LAN mode that doesn't use the cloud, no need for the SD card
@@scott185 I'm not saying it is not convinient, I'm sure it is! I'd rather trade a bit of convinience in order to not be required to send all of my data through a server and not know what happens to it. Maybe if you are messing around at home printing fun little widgets and brackets it might not matter, but a production shop sending their ressources to china is just asking for trouble. It might be that they really respect your data and will keep the service alive for many years to come, but you just can't be sure unless you avoid products like that. Each to their own though, i don't judge at all, I just have my priorities different than others, but I know I'm not alone either :)
EDIT: I can start a print from anywhere in the world right from the slicer aswell by the way, using open source software:
Cura, Homeassistant, Octoprint, Wireguard, Marlin.
Input shaping for the win!
another DJI?
Ordered mine today.
Can't wait to get it and see if it puts my heavily modded and MK3S+ in the dust.
Any update?
@red one I got it in like 4 days later.
I've been running mine non-stop since I got it.
The speed and quality of the prints is insane.
I only use my prusa for really small prints that are like 10 minutes and under or if my bambu is tied up printing something.
My wife wanted a castle that on my Ender was 5.5 days at 10" tall and .20mm layer height.
My Prusa only prints a little over 8" tall but it was 3.75 days at max height on the Prusa.
My bambu printed it at 10.15" tall at .16mm layer height in 23 hours.
The quality of the print is hands down better than my Prusa and my Ender can achieve even after a few hundred in mods with my Ender.
@spydergs07 thanks for the info. I got a prusa mini plus that I've been running for 2 days before finding bambu lab printers. It looks like the mini plus is gonna turn into a side dish as well. I guess I should be thankful I'm not 60+ printers deep like some people are that are switching over to this.
@red one right lol I was only two FDM printers and 1 SLA printer in before I got my bambu.
My resin printer still has a spot but my ender is a paperweight now.
I tweaked it a bit more but I'm tired of tinkering with it and still not get the results of my prusa or bambu.
My prusa is good for small quick prototypes.
Bambu does have like a 5 min startup process for bed leveling and checking the first layer, but it's worth that 5 minutes for such a good print.
Huge issue with these BL printers, that nobody talks about, is the motion system is non serviceable and is epoxied into place. When the graphite in the bushings wears away (as show by all the graphite dust on the X axis rods), you're left with abrasive aluminum bronze bushings wearing down into the CF rods. Bambu lab doesn't sell replacement rods or bushing/bearings and they don't want the user to service the motion system system (their own words). They want you to send it in for repair. Bambu lab also seems to think warped build plates are "normal", as they said themselves when so many people complained about receiving printers with warped build plates.
Then what is the expected life span of this system in operational hours.
@@hateca1 It seems like it varies, since the QC on the BL printers is all over the place. Some have reported excessive toolhead slop in just a few hundred hours, others after a couple thousand. But BL has just been replacing printers when the bushings wear out right now. But that's only because they're all in warranty. When the warranty is up, you have to start sending them in for repair, probably back overseas since there is no repair facility here in the US.
Bambu lab had to address their QC problems like warped build plates and toohead slop/bushing wear in a blog post recently, and really it was just them skirting around the problems.
Prusa is the standard prosumer brand for a reason it works great everytime. Going with the prusa xl and i expect they will end up with one to.
Yeah, i think these are IGUS Bushings, but when they are glued is complete BS. Another Probleme is the wear of the PTFE Lines, the filament grindes the Tube and the debree get clogged in the Nozzle...
@@hateca1 I knew, as soon as something negative was said, a Bambu Baby would come crying because he wants to justify his purchase on a Chinese non-open source printer
You had Prusa XL??
He corrects himself in the video. He had a mk3 and ordered an XL but is waiting on it.
If you're doing work under NDA for aerospace, defense etc. it sounds like this is a definite no-go.
you can print local from sd card.
@@TMS5100 It still goes through their cloud servers, then back to the SD card. So rather than slicer > SD card > print....its slicer > cloud > SD card > print...So BL ends up getting a copy of everything you slice, if they really wanted.
@@LilApe you're just plain making shit up now. my x1c and laptop have NO connection to the internet. i slice on laptop with no internet connection at all, save to SD card in my laptop, take the sd card out of my laptop and take it to the x1c, plug the sd into the printer, and print from the SD card. if what you claim is true, i wouldn't be able to print at all. i print this way to prevent sending any data to BL, for that exact reason. it does work despite your claims otherwise.
@@TMS5100 I'm just repeating what Bambu lab themselves have stated. So no, not making shit up when BL said it themselves. is your X1 connected to the internet? Then BL still has access to your files when you hit print. Unless your printer is also offline, then sure.
@@LilApe Not true. Prints just fine without an Internet connections via the local LAN
did you make sure to get a first layer of glue stick down? it helps with the release from the print bed. with mine i put some glue stick done then use a small lint free damp cloth t make sure i got a nice thin layer ever were.
Plug and play printing, as it should be!
Upload to China? Nope. Thanks but no thanks. Won't buy.
You can use Lan only or SD cards. Cloud Optional. So know that you know that would you by it? You werent going to buy it anyway ...
@@hawtdayum I almost did. I instead got a Voron Kit.
@@moltenaluminium Cool. So which printer are you using to print the parts? What kind of build time are you looking at?
@@hawtdayum I machined the parts myself from aluminium.
Coming From prusa printers. Ordering one of these. I ordered the THEKIIIING texture PEI sheet as I ABUSED the hell out of them on my prusa farms and never wore or ruined one and I used metal scrapers to remove the purge lines and brims and never scratched one. The stock Prusa sheets where varied in strength and none ever lasted more than 6 months. the THEKIIIING sheets I still have after years and still are like 98% new.
Use your index finger to point
Just what I needed. Another 20 minute video of some saying the exact same thing as the 200 other videos on here just filibustering instead of showing actual printing and actual use.
A nice printer but a printer you will not keep long as most of its internal is not serviceable. The ROI of such printer is very low.
He got a year out of his mk3 before it started screwing up @ 3:10. Seems that $1100 investment was pissed away.
Not all China stuff is junk..
They used to call Japanese stuff junk in the 80's, now they are one of the most respected manufactures.
Vibration compensation has been around in the 3D printing community for years now. This feature has been exceptionally popular among the folks that use Octoprint, Klipper, Fluidd etc. In fact, most of the Bambulab's features that the people outside of the printing community love so much have been taken from the open source makers' world and put into a nice looking wrapper.
Actually, input shaping just came to marlin back in December, and hasn't ever been part of octoprint as far as I know. Sure klipper has had it for a few years but the barrier to entry there is pretty high. Even with marlin, the process to reconfigure my cr-10 (running an skr1.3) was such a pain in the butt that I never updated it. Not enough of a feature to possibly mess up my entire profile, abl and more. If you're going to try to be a gatekeeper, at least get your facts straight.
@@sirseriously bruh what are you even talking about, I’ve had it on my OctoPi since 2021. And the barrier might be too high for you if you’re so bad you can’t follow the instructions and afraid you can mess it up😉
I don’t need to be the "gatekeeper", seems to be more of your role at this very moment, I’m just giving the guy a quick recap
@@nazariimoroz6216 oh really? Please give me a link to this magical input shaping you have through octoprint, because it doesn't seem to exist anywhere and is still prerelease in marlin. You may have klipper running on a raspberry pi, but that isn't octoprint.
vibration compensation via control shaping techniques dates all the way to the 1950s for cranes to not have their loads swing out and destroy stuff when moving. its not a technology unique to printing. its just only been there for a few years on the front edges of the diy space before going mainstream, most notably in the open source space once it was added to klipper.
Prusa Mk4 is now out, and released today. Looks like a Bambu killer.
Eh. Maybe a fair comparison for the cheaper Bambu P1P vs the Mk4 kit, but once you add the Prusa multiple material add-on the Mk4 (assembled) is at pretty much the same price as the X1-C with the AMS. You still don't get an enclosure (air filtered), dehumidified filament containment, camera, or the superb build quality/presentation the X1-C has.
I still LOVE Prusa, but Bambu killer might be a stretch. Curious to see when they announce actual printing speeds too, Prusa only gives a Benchy print time and no real numbers as far as max print speed :/
The Mk4 looks like a very good printer, but I wouldn't call it an X1 killer. The Mk4 is about the same price as an X1 and a fair bit more expensive than the P1P. If you want an enclosure for the Mk4, that's an extra €300. The Mk4 takes up a lot more bench space because it's a bedslinger.
Super excited to see the mk4 released, but I'm going to reserve judgement for when they are in customer hands and being reviewed.
At a glance it still looks like it lags behind the X1C, but I want to see it first hand.
The Mk4 is whole lot better than the Mk3, but no Bambu killer. It not just print speed of the Bambu, it's the package as a whole, software and hardware. Using the Bambu at home and now at work has made prototyping and tooling so much quicker and easier. The AMS has also been a game changer and is a well thought out plug and play system.
While not perfect, the Bambu is not just a hype machine with gimmicky features, they do work and work well. The AI detection has saved a couple of big print already and successfully detected issues before it became a problem. It notified my phone while I was out, I checked the camera and could see what was going on. I could then pause, stop or resume the print remotely. Luckily I had someone near by that could remove the the issue and let me resume printing. No other printer does this, and its so seamless.
lol no
you can print rings for the edges of the cardboard spools