and if you put your alignment tool on from the bottom of the drive clutch , take some measurements . compare the top and bottom you can adjust belt skew , by playing with your engine stops you can adjust the alignment so the clutches are dead parallel at full throttle under full load , increasing performance ,lowering belt temp increasing belt life , take a seamstress tape measure with you to the dealership , be nice to him and he might be nice and let you go through his belts measuring diameter and width ,pick out 3 or 4 that are the same .that way you have little to no adjustments when changing belts , you can rotate through those belts reset the clutches and rotate through again , when you get them home ,sunlight dish soap and a scrub brush ,the hottest water you can stand will remove the mold release from manufacturing , mold release will bake into the belt under use making it hard and prone to slipping ..... belt alignment is free and is the foundation for clutch tuning and performance
Very AWESOME tips on what to look for and check out with the alignment part and the deflection also! I now know that I have 2 separate issues with my Polaris clutches that need prompt addressing thanks to your knowledge and experience with racing!!! I'm by no means any expert on Setting up a CVT system outside of the basics that I actually thought was written in stone that you were suppose to setup the primary and secondary on an almost dead straight line!?? Smfh now! I've been doing it all a bit wrong all these years Man. I get why you actually want to have a 2mm or so offset shaft angle to help aid in the belt to drop a little bit easier into the secondary clutch while it's climbing up the primary, I see how this method in all actuality makes more sense than a dead on straight edged alignment like that I've been doing to my clutches for the last year now on a Machine I've been building using a Polaris engine basically in my Ezgo golf cart. I just finally got done with re-machining the clutch surfaces and put a aftermarket Helix in with a Comet Silver spring in the secondary. The primary I'm running A-1 weights, originally setup for a Yamaha exciter sled but I gutted the weights and silver spring from that to make a hybrid Ezgo primary clutch by removing the spiders machined a new bearing for the shaft and installed in on my bastardized golf cart LMAO. The engine's a hybrid as well with a Ezgo crankcases 2 stroke from the early 90s Ezgo's. Rebuilt the crankshaft with a Polaris Hot Rod's kit and all new high end Japanese ball bearings seals ect. It's a double ball on the pto side as well so it's much more than capable of holding up to the HP I was seeking. Used a jug and piston off a Polaris sled 488cc twin cylinder engine cuz this is a 244 single I have, Ezgo bottom end. So from the jug base gasket up it's all Polaris parts which bolt right on the Ezgo bottoms without machine work necessary outside of a few MM longer jug studs, that's it. Both the Polaris and Ezgo engine's of this vintage earlier and later were manufactured by Fuji Industrial, so they are both pretty well built engine's. The 488s/500s for a fan motor, probably the utmost reliable sleds I've ever owned and operated the longest as they still do with tens of thousands of miles on them engine's still solid as rocks and run strong. No comparison to what you have really a different ball park all together lol. BUT BTW your sled and engine look amazing! Love a good clean and tidy looking engine bay! It's sweet man! Them expansion pipes look killer as well! What's the HP on say something ya have there in the video ya thinking? That a Polaris Triple 650 Or Rotax based engine? I've seen them sleds drag Man! They are disgustingly sick! But yeah now I'll have something to do over the winter and change my alignment of the sheaths to get the offset of about 2mm like that you were showing. I'll tell ya what, I know you probably had a good laugh about my project being a little single air engine, but it's definitely no joke in a lightweight golf cart, for a 244 with mild work internals, squish band, mild porting otherwise stock though 38mm MiK flat slide and a stock Polaris 250 expansion pipe and silencer, she lifts the front passenger tire off the ground with 2 full sized big adults over 200lbs ea! So she is a little tiny Rocket Ship I call her. On dry pavement with street tires, no off roads but 12" wide rear tires 4" in the front with one person breaks the tires lose on course pavement, and leaves a good smoke trail down the road! 60mph your about ready to die any second cuz even a modified version golf cart even with 4" of wheel spacers it's just too short of a wheel base at high speeds over 50-5 your white knuckles and holding on for dear life. LMAO! BUT again sorry to bore ya with such small potatoes here, I love to drag race anything, I'm too old for getting in and out of my drag cars anymore especially with my back and neck injuries, a hard seat and squeezing in and out of roll cage bars anymore I'm done over with. Plus the golf cart ya can have like 4 times as many cuz they take up so much less space. I'm in the process of my next project a 570 Eaton M-24 supercharged V twin going into a cart! Expect to see well into the low to mid 100s of HP I'd be happy with almost 100 but Shit we all need that Adeline rush somehow brother. Stay safe Man and thanks so very much again for your help.
Dude , here at Digit9 , we love everything and anything that gets modded ! Love your project ! The motor at question in vid is a 1200 twin from Linderman with a 3076 Turbo , good for 400 hp at 20 psi , my other mod is a Polaris XCR 800 base Price Performance triple , dynoed at 240 hp !!
Great video , thanks for sharing this is very helpful as I'm new to the sport 1st time owning a polaris 550 2up 07" sled ,Thanks Turtle from Taunton mass.
Thanks for the info. I too have a custom built s chasis , but i have polaris primary and secondary. I never knew they were not meant to be parallel . (thats how i set them after i got the sled and it was burning up the belt)
Thank for the tip, however, when I align my clutches on my crossfire 2011 without the tool, i get both identical measurements. I tried removing and adding shims in the back of my secondary, but it changes nothing. I exploded one belt last year but it was used and I don't know how long it had since I bought the sled last year, however, I always get this jerky feeling at lower speed, like if a clutch engages and disengages back and forth until I give gas again then he's ok. I'm about to drop it off at the dealer to check alignment, but maybe you can help. It's a 800 sno pro, this summer I rebuilt the whole diamond drive, bearings, and seal, new oil, the primary clutch is brand new for Arctic cat, my secondary waws rebuild last year at the dealer, belt is new and deflection is on point according to your videos, I also adjusted my track tension and aligned, it is perfect on each side. Any ideas ?
BIG QUESTION: Why is 19mm and 17mm perfect? arn't they supposed to be identical (indicating that the secondary clutch is paralelle to the primary? I am confused now!
Because they wouldnt stay perfect ! Torque from motor and motor mounts cause deflection , so you set the offset with no load so that under load the clutches line up closer to parallel
I appreciate your video. Regarding clutch alignment, if i'm running a straight edge shouldn't the two clutches be offset but square? ie. measuring off the driver clutch the driven clutch front and rear measurements be the same? I have no idea, just clarifying.
Not sure what you mean by “square” ? If you have a straight edge off the inside of the primary towards secondary , what ever measurement you come up with , the front of the secondary should have about an 1/8” space compared to the back of secondary where it should be touching , thats the alignment ! Or offset ! So that under torque the two clutchs should line up perfectly !
The last method without a clutch alignment tool seems wonky... Where does he come up with 19mm on one side and 16mm on the other side as being in spec? Given they are not the same exact number there is skew (jackshaft and driveshaft are not parallel) but even beyond that if they were 21mm and 18mm would that now somehow be out of his magical spec? How do we come up with these numbers? Surely each sled would be different? The numbers must matter to know that the clutches are running true to each other...
Hey thanks for the info, really love your channel. Quick question for you, I purchased a 2011 crossfire 800, and spider cracked (the clutch was supposed to be new, trusted the guy I bought it from). Anyways I'm rebuilding it, but after watching your video I realized that after 100KM/H, the engine starts floating, and revved really high. Once I put everything back up I will check the deflection and i'll chalk the primary. If i'm not using enough of the clutch, what would you recommend changing first? I mostly ride hard trails. Thanks in advance !!
Great videos. I notice you have a paragon on that sled. Do you still use the paragon? I have one but never been able to tune properly. Any advice? Thanks Mitch
Soi looked at my primary and there is about 1/8 of an inch gap when the belt is sitting on the primary clutch bearing between the sheath and the edge of the belt. How do i adjust that
Buy a new belt thats a bit wider , or you are gonna have to take clutch apart and add a shim to tighten it up ! I believe the correct spacing is 20 thou !
I've got a rev chassis, modified 800 motor, and I absolutely destroy belts. I floated my secondary and it still shreds belt, motor mounts seem tight, engine stop is snug, I've had both clutches apart and tuned up, deflection set up good to my knowledge, any idea or help would be appreciated! Thank you sir
Recently found this channel. Great content. Any tips on tuning mikuni round slide carbs when its warmer out? Getting a big time bog and super wet and black plugs
@@DIGIT9 I put a new belt on, but don’t see an adjustment on the Kawasaki mule FXR to take slack out. If they have one, I’ve looked everywhere online. thanks
i have a 1992 skidoo gt with the 580 rotax. Im having a hard time finding parts. Any chance you can send me a link to the right belt and skis that fit my snowmobile? thanks
So heres my problem when i tip the sled on the clutch side the belt starts slipping its a new belt and i cleaned the clutches and they havent worn out the alignment is good and the tention is also good i was thinking could my secondary be loose on the saft so the alignment would be ruined when i tip it
@@DIGIT9 awesome man I just got my first sled this year learnt a lot from watching your videos apricate the tips! I got a 2000 xcr 800 given to me an older sled but should still be some fun lol
I’ve got a 2014 m8000 153. I’m having clutch troubles. When I put it in reverse the belt slides into over drive on the secondary and won’t pull itself. Even up on a stand. I hope this problem is related to it blowing belts more often than I’d like. Any thoughts?
@@DIGIT9 like high gear, the rollers aren’t catching in the reverse notches and keeping the secondary in a low ratio. Not sure if it’s the defection, bad spring or something else is worn.
Thank you awesome video is always with your content! Now I want to put a performance clutch on my O2 700 X edge what else do I have to change with that type of clutch?
@@DIGIT9 I was looking at putting in an EPI performance clutch I’m not sure with mine if I should go with the trail performance clutch or the racing performance clutch
Hey, i have some problems with my clutches. Im new to CVTs as i've only worked on normal gearboxes and hydrostates before. Would be nice if you could give me a hint or so! I had a pretty loud squealing/whining noise from the clutch side, it almost sounded like an RC car.😅 When i put in a new belt the noise pretty much went away, but not fully. It still has a decent sound to it.(you hear it the clearest if you have some speed and let off the throttle, but no sound at idle. Do you have any ideas on possible broblems? Plus another question, how do you know the reqired measurements when checking the alignment with a tape neasure? And nice work with your vids bud!😁🤙
@@DIGIT9 Had some thoughts on that too... Or the one beside the secondary. Sounded a bit like our old stump grinder with blown bearing. I was getting concerned when it got less when changing belt. It could happen i greased the bearings in the same go.
@@DIGIT9 Took it apart today, there aint no ball bearings at the lower shaft, just bad grease. The upper shaft has one ball bearing, which creaks and is hard to turn. Thanks for the reminder!
but how do you adjust alignment ??? cant leave us with that cliffhanger. btw your mispronouncing sheaves. its not the thing you get stabbed with in prison.
How we doing I have a 16 m8000 hcr. I cam not get my belt to stop squealing I adjusted deflection to what it calls for but it still making noise. Any suggestions. Thanks
@@DIGIT9 Ah Thank you for the explanation it makes sense but I would have never known. I have always just squared them up guess I should have invested in a service manual lol. Thanks again.
Good basic info, presented such that most anyone can at least get a ballpark estimate of their setup. Nice.
Good to hear the recreation supply name drop, great bunch of guys there
and if you put your alignment tool on from the bottom of the drive clutch , take some measurements . compare the top and bottom you can adjust belt skew , by playing with your engine stops you can adjust the alignment so the clutches are dead parallel at full throttle under full load , increasing performance ,lowering belt temp increasing belt life , take a seamstress tape measure with you to the dealership , be nice to him and he might be nice and let you go through his belts measuring diameter and width ,pick out 3 or 4 that are the same .that way you have little to no adjustments when changing belts , you can rotate through those belts reset the clutches and rotate through again , when you get them home ,sunlight dish soap and a scrub brush ,the hottest water you can stand will remove the mold release from manufacturing , mold release will bake into the belt under use making it hard and prone to slipping ..... belt alignment is free and is the foundation for clutch tuning and performance
Great video, kept it simple unlike the forums
Very AWESOME tips on what to look for and check out with the alignment part and the deflection also! I now know that I have 2 separate issues with my Polaris clutches that need prompt addressing thanks to your knowledge and experience with racing!!! I'm by no means any expert on Setting up a CVT system outside of the basics that I actually thought was written in stone that you were suppose to setup the primary and secondary on an almost dead straight line!?? Smfh now! I've been doing it all a bit wrong all these years Man. I get why you actually want to have a 2mm or so offset shaft angle to help aid in the belt to drop a little bit easier into the secondary clutch while it's climbing up the primary, I see how this method in all actuality makes more sense than a dead on straight edged alignment like that I've been doing to my clutches for the last year now on a Machine I've been building using a Polaris engine basically in my Ezgo golf cart. I just finally got done with re-machining the clutch surfaces and put a aftermarket Helix in with a Comet Silver spring in the secondary. The primary I'm running A-1 weights, originally setup for a Yamaha exciter sled but I gutted the weights and silver spring from that to make a hybrid Ezgo primary clutch by removing the spiders machined a new bearing for the shaft and installed in on my bastardized golf cart LMAO. The engine's a hybrid as well with a Ezgo crankcases 2 stroke from the early 90s Ezgo's. Rebuilt the crankshaft with a Polaris Hot Rod's kit and all new high end Japanese ball bearings seals ect. It's a double ball on the pto side as well so it's much more than capable of holding up to the HP I was seeking. Used a jug and piston off a Polaris sled 488cc twin cylinder engine cuz this is a 244 single I have, Ezgo bottom end. So from the jug base gasket up it's all Polaris parts which bolt right on the Ezgo bottoms without machine work necessary outside of a few MM longer jug studs, that's it. Both the Polaris and Ezgo engine's of this vintage earlier and later were manufactured by Fuji Industrial, so they are both pretty well built engine's. The 488s/500s for a fan motor, probably the utmost reliable sleds I've ever owned and operated the longest as they still do with tens of thousands of miles on them engine's still solid as rocks and run strong. No comparison to what you have really a different ball park all together lol. BUT BTW your sled and engine look amazing! Love a good clean and tidy looking engine bay! It's sweet man! Them expansion pipes look killer as well! What's the HP on say something ya have there in the video ya thinking? That a Polaris Triple 650 Or Rotax based engine? I've seen them sleds drag Man! They are disgustingly sick! But yeah now I'll have something to do over the winter and change my alignment of the sheaths to get the offset of about 2mm like that you were showing. I'll tell ya what, I know you probably had a good laugh about my project being a little single air engine, but it's definitely no joke in a lightweight golf cart, for a 244 with mild work internals, squish band, mild porting otherwise stock though 38mm MiK flat slide and a stock Polaris 250 expansion pipe and silencer, she lifts the front passenger tire off the ground with 2 full sized big adults over 200lbs ea! So she is a little tiny Rocket Ship I call her. On dry pavement with street tires, no off roads but 12" wide rear tires 4" in the front with one person breaks the tires lose on course pavement, and leaves a good smoke trail down the road! 60mph your about ready to die any second cuz even a modified version golf cart even with 4" of wheel spacers it's just too short of a wheel base at high speeds over 50-5 your white knuckles and holding on for dear life. LMAO! BUT again sorry to bore ya with such small potatoes here, I love to drag race anything, I'm too old for getting in and out of my drag cars anymore especially with my back and neck injuries, a hard seat and squeezing in and out of roll cage bars anymore I'm done over with. Plus the golf cart ya can have like 4 times as many cuz they take up so much less space. I'm in the process of my next project a 570 Eaton M-24 supercharged V twin going into a cart! Expect to see well into the low to mid 100s of HP I'd be happy with almost 100 but Shit we all need that Adeline rush somehow brother. Stay safe Man and thanks so very much again for your help.
Dude , here at Digit9 , we love everything and anything that gets modded ! Love your project ! The motor at question in vid is a 1200 twin from Linderman with a 3076 Turbo , good for 400 hp at 20 psi , my other mod is a Polaris XCR 800 base Price Performance triple , dynoed at 240 hp !!
Awesome video thanks for the help trying to tune my 94 XLT to the T.
I just adjusted the deflection property on my sled and its ridiculously better. It feels like I was peddling in hard gear up hill now I have 1st lol
I found this real helpful keep up the good vids I love they old mod sleds!!👍👍😁
Thanks for watching Mike 🤟 We’ll keep bringing the hits.
Great video , thanks for sharing this is very helpful as I'm new to the sport 1st time owning a polaris 550 2up 07" sled ,Thanks Turtle from Taunton mass.
Thank you bro you have given me more knowledge in the first 2:15 than I ever knew keep making vids f$&@ the haters.
Thanks for the info. I too have a custom built s chasis , but i have polaris primary and secondary.
I never knew they were not meant to be parallel . (thats how i set them after i got the sled and it was
burning up the belt)
Looks like a monster sled setup
always great video's... very informative....
Hey brother your vlogs are very helpful , pleasw keep postin great content ty 🤘 from great state of Vermont
Brian Longley thanks Brian! We’ll keep it coming!
Thanks for the video. What are the low and high ratios on this CVT?
Not sure !
Thank for the tip, however, when I align my clutches on my crossfire 2011 without the tool, i get both identical measurements. I tried removing and adding shims in the back of my secondary, but it changes nothing. I exploded one belt last year but it was used and I don't know how long it had since I bought the sled last year, however, I always get this jerky feeling at lower speed, like if a clutch engages and disengages back and forth until I give gas again then he's ok. I'm about to drop it off at the dealer to check alignment, but maybe you can help.
It's a 800 sno pro, this summer I rebuilt the whole diamond drive, bearings, and seal, new oil, the primary clutch is brand new for Arctic cat, my secondary waws rebuild last year at the dealer, belt is new and deflection is on point according to your videos, I also adjusted my track tension and aligned, it is perfect on each side.
Any ideas ?
Check motor mounts !
Got correct belt ?
@@DIGIT9 Yes according to Arctic cat dealer and website it is the good part number.
@@DIGIT9 If they have physical damage or if they are align properly ?
BIG QUESTION: Why is 19mm and 17mm perfect? arn't they supposed to be identical (indicating that the secondary clutch is paralelle to the primary? I am confused now!
Because they wouldnt stay perfect ! Torque from motor and motor mounts cause deflection , so you set the offset with no load so that under load the clutches line up closer to parallel
I appreciate your video. Regarding clutch alignment, if i'm running a straight edge shouldn't the two clutches be offset but square? ie. measuring off the driver clutch the driven clutch front and rear measurements be the same? I have no idea, just clarifying.
Not sure what you mean by “square” ? If you have a straight edge off the inside of the primary towards secondary , what ever measurement you come up with , the front of the secondary should have about an 1/8” space compared to the back of secondary where it should be touching , thats the alignment ! Or offset ! So that under torque the two clutchs should line up perfectly !
The last method without a clutch alignment tool seems wonky... Where does he come up with 19mm on one side and 16mm on the other side as being in spec?
Given they are not the same exact number there is skew (jackshaft and driveshaft are not parallel) but even beyond that if they were 21mm and 18mm would that now somehow be out of his magical spec? How do we come up with these numbers? Surely each sled would be different?
The numbers must matter to know that the clutches are running true to each other...
Clutchs need an offset to allow for the engine torque !
Hey thanks for the info, really love your channel. Quick question for you, I purchased a 2011 crossfire 800, and spider cracked (the clutch was supposed to be new, trusted the guy I bought it from). Anyways I'm rebuilding it, but after watching your video I realized that after 100KM/H, the engine starts floating, and revved really high. Once I put everything back up I will check the deflection and i'll chalk the primary. If i'm not using enough of the clutch, what would you recommend changing first? I mostly ride hard trails.
Thanks in advance !!
What do you mean “floating “ ?
Almost sounds like belt is slipping ? Snow ingestion ?
Might need to gear it up ?
Great videos. I notice you have a paragon on that sled. Do you still use the paragon? I have one but never been able to tune properly. Any advice?
Thanks
Mitch
Ya throw away the helix that came with it and put a straight 40 or 42 degree in it !
Does using the straight edge like you demonstrated work on any sled or is there different specs
Works on any sled !
What about snapping belts when you let off the throttle on a pump up four stroke
Thank you, great info
Thanks for watching John.👍
Should you have play between your secondary and your jack shaft?
Keyed shaft , side to side , Yes , splined shaft , no !
@@DIGIT9 thanks, I have a 1986 indy 600 and It was blown up so I rebuilt it. But know, I'm having so much trouble with the Secondary clutch.
Love the channel! Can you talk about some trail riding clutch options for us folk in Onterrible?
I can try ? Shoot !
Soi looked at my primary and there is about 1/8 of an inch gap when the belt is sitting on the primary clutch bearing between the sheath and the edge of the belt. How do i adjust that
Buy a new belt thats a bit wider , or you are gonna have to take clutch apart and add a shim to tighten it up ! I believe the correct spacing is 20 thou !
There is no better sound than a Polaris Triple!!!!
I've got a rev chassis, modified 800 motor, and I absolutely destroy belts. I floated my secondary and it still shreds belt, motor mounts seem tight, engine stop is snug, I've had both clutches apart and tuned up, deflection set up good to my knowledge, any idea or help would be appreciated! Thank you sir
How long , lug of track , gearing and clutching ! Sounds like your clutching is out to lunch !
Kind of clutchs ?
@DIGIT9 it won't let me add the comment for some reason, is it possible to send you a text on different platform, thanks sir
Ya try Instagram
Recently found this channel. Great content. Any tips on tuning mikuni round slide carbs when its warmer out? Getting a big time bog and super wet and black plugs
Great idea ! We will do a vid on that ! Stay tuned ! Glad to have you on board Ben !!
Awesome channel thank you
What would a slapping sound be till it warms up? Coming from the primary.
Belt or track ?
@@DIGIT9 I put a new belt on, but don’t see an adjustment on the Kawasaki mule FXR to take slack out. If they have one, I’ve looked everywhere online. thanks
That would be a ATV ! Bit different than a snowmobile ! Gearbox could be pooched ?
i have a 1992 skidoo gt with the 580 rotax. Im having a hard time finding parts. Any chance you can send me a link to the right belt and skis that fit my snowmobile? thanks
Recreation Supply has everything you need
So heres my problem
when i tip the sled on the clutch side the belt starts slipping its a new belt and i cleaned the clutches and they havent worn out the alignment is good and the tention is also good i was thinking could my secondary be loose on the saft so the alignment would be ruined when i tip it
Where can I get paragon clutch parts, ie: plastic rollers, My power coater and sled head bud melted mine in the oven...
Good luck , try Paragon or Mtn Magic in Edm AB !!
Are you from Saskatchewan?
Originally yup , Wilkie SK Canada !!
@@DIGIT9 awesome man I just got my first sled this year learnt a lot from watching your videos apricate the tips! I got a 2000 xcr 800 given to me an older sled but should still be some fun lol
I’ve got a 2014 m8000 153. I’m having clutch troubles. When I put it in reverse the belt slides into over drive on the secondary and won’t pull itself. Even up on a stand. I hope this problem is related to it blowing belts more often than I’d like. Any thoughts?
What do you mean “slides into overdrive” ? Overdrive is only achieved at WOT across a lake or hard flat surface !
@@DIGIT9 like high gear, the rollers aren’t catching in the reverse notches and keeping the secondary in a low ratio. Not sure if it’s the defection, bad spring or something else is worn.
Take it apart and look ! Could be a broken or worn spring ?
If the clutch is out of alignment how do I adjust it to right measurements?
Each sled is different ! Clutch alignment tool for your sled works the best ! What sled you workin on ?
Thanks Much!
Good tip
How come my bike won't go into neutral and now I can't start it because of that
Hello,
Why 1/8" difference in alignment, for motor torque?
Yup
Thank you awesome video is always with your content! Now I want to put a performance clutch on my O2 700 X edge what else do I have to change with that type of clutch?
depends what your putting on for a "Performance " clutch ?
@@DIGIT9 I was looking at putting in an EPI performance clutch I’m not sure with mine if I should go with the trail performance clutch or the racing performance clutch
@@jamesrinaldo2602 not how clutches work on sleds. You've bought a clutch kit
How much movement should the driven clutch have back and forth on the shaft?
none on a Doo or Cat , but about 1/8' on a keyed shaft Polaris
@@DIGIT9 ok thank you. That is what I gathered but it looks to be splined. Think the 1/8" still ok?
If its a splined shaft , DO NOT float , splines will get buggered !
@@DIGIT9 ok thanks! I appreciate it and subscribed!
Hey, i have some problems with my clutches. Im new to CVTs as i've only worked on normal gearboxes and hydrostates before. Would be nice if you could give me a hint or so!
I had a pretty loud squealing/whining noise from the clutch side, it almost sounded like an RC car.😅
When i put in a new belt the noise pretty much went away, but not fully. It still has a decent sound to it.(you hear it the clearest if you have some speed and let off the throttle, but no sound at idle.
Do you have any ideas on possible broblems?
Plus another question, how do you know the reqired measurements when checking the alignment with a tape neasure?
And nice work with your vids bud!😁🤙
Check the bearing on the drive shaft just below the secondary !
@@DIGIT9 Had some thoughts on that too... Or the one beside the secondary. Sounded a bit like our old stump grinder with blown bearing.
I was getting concerned when it got less when changing belt. It could happen i greased the bearings in the same go.
What kind of sled ? Mileage ?
@@DIGIT9 Rmk 600 02 with i believe about 10 000km
@@DIGIT9 Took it apart today, there aint no ball bearings at the lower shaft, just bad grease. The upper shaft has one ball bearing, which creaks and is hard to turn. Thanks for the reminder!
1:50, wouldn’t you need lighter weights to get the belt to use whole clutch surface?
Nope
Lighter weights will make it rev higher but not go any faster unless you add some angle to the helix or put a softer spring in primary !
Looks like your 2 ndary is not opening wide enough. The belt could go higher on the primary.
There’s another hole gear left in that clitch
I burnt my belt in one spot now it makes there is a banging sound now what
New belt !!!
@@DIGIT9 good evening it makes a loud noise it gets worse as you go faster I didn't wreck anything did i
Belt is pooched !! Get a new one !
wow 1/8 inch at b.. Poo book saying .060 at B on the secondary.
ya , motors move more than you think !!
why does this guy talk/sound the same as the Powermodz guy?
That's what I said, brother maybe?😂
Chalking the clutch isn't such a good idea.
The first couple of times you blip the throttle, the back and forth belt movement wipes the marks.clean.
but how do you adjust alignment ??? cant leave us with that cliffhanger. btw your mispronouncing sheaves. its not the thing you get stabbed with in prison.
yes, wtf talk and then no adjusting, this is the second vid like this. why are you doing these vids, they are useless
This is a video about clutches. Who gives a shit how he pronounces the word. You know what he meant. Just couldn't let it go could you?
How we doing I have a 16 m8000 hcr. I cam not get my belt to stop squealing I adjusted deflection to what it calls for but it still making noise. Any suggestions. Thanks
Add a shim to secondary or adjust it so it opens a bit !
So why would you want that to be what appears to be an 1/8 out of square?
Torque of the motor will balance it out , so that under load , your clutchs are perfectly aligned !
@@DIGIT9 Ah Thank you for the explanation it makes sense but I would have never known. I have always just squared them up guess I should have invested in a service manual lol. Thanks again.
Lets work on this old girl. Ya. That super sick, totally awesome triple completely done out. Yes please 😂