BMW XDrive Oil Pan Gasket Detailed DIY
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2022
- This video details my recent experience replacing the oil pan gasket on my 2010 BMW 335i Xdrive. I did a lot of research to prepare for this job and wanted to share the results in the hope that it would help others to avoid spending the many hours that I did tracking down all of the pertinent information and figuring out the particulars of the job. Essentially, this is the video that I wish had been on youtube when I was trying to figure out how to do this job. It's a comprehensive, highly detailed tutorial showing every step of the process complete with all torque specs. This is a labour intensive job. Current (fall 2022) dealership pricing where I live in Canada to change the oil pan gasket is over $2,600 (CAD). Most of that is labour so this presents a good opportunity to save money as a DIY. But the job requires a good collection of tools and some know how, especially with respect to safety since a mistake could lead to being crushed by an engine. Viewers of this video undertake this job at their own risk. In terms of tools, I spent about $300 (CAD) on tools that I didn't have: a proper metric thread chaser set; an axle popper set (that as you'll see didn't work as intended), and; an engine support bar. For those that are considering undertaking this job I hope you find this video helpful in your decision-making and for those that do the job I hope that you find all of the detail contained within the video to be useful.
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Thanks for the video, doc. I've watched all the bmw 335 OPG videos over the last couple years but found yours the most complete and used it to finally finished the job. I used your video as a checklist but I still managed to put things back on out of order as I did a lot more preventive maintenance. I even gave my subframe TWO coats of paint as well as the rusty vac canister bracket that every 335 has! :) Anyway, I have a number of comments that may help someone so here goes:
I have a manual xdrive coupe with about 113k miles. Remember to lower the frameless windows an inch so you can open the doors after disconnecting the battery.
Do check your ground strap. Mine was green but looked solid but as soon as I moved it it started fraying. Parts guy was saying how they've seen lots of strange problems when it's degraded like that.
The 3 steel bolts at the back of the oil pan seemed to have thread sealant on them when I took them off so I put some on just in case.
The thread chaser was a good idea. I had a tap set and tried that but it didnt feel right so I ordered a proper thread chaser set for 20 bucks on amazon.. worked great. one of the oil pan bolt holes had a lot of crust and took a little work. I was impressed with the thing and used it on most of the significant bolts and nuts that I reused.
I took off the steering shaft from the rack... total and complete PITA. splined shaft was all corroded... I struggled for literally hours getting the damn thing off and may have damaged the splines a bit. Used a wire brush and it looked ok but when I put it on I smartened up a tad and got a slide hammer. Man that is a great tool.. whacked the thing on in just a couple minutes after forgetting I had it and struggling a while.
Depending on how high you lifted the engine with the support bar, you may not be able to get the front drive shaft on until the engine is back on the subframe. Mine was more than 1/2" too far away.
Oh and I didnt modify the tow hook and started this job in Aug or Sep of 2022! It wasnt a problem for the year and 9 months although my harbor freight engine support bar did look a little banana-like at the end... I have a lot of jack stands so had those all over just in case though.
The advice to clean the ledge on the block above the oil pan before removing it is good. Mine had so much crud and oil blown all over. I think I used 10 cans of brake cleaner to clean the engine and transmission. Very useful for front of the engine under the pullies if you change them. The walmart guy in the auto section got to know me for how often I had to go back.
When the oil pan is off, look at the screen deep inside the oil pickup tube. I've seen a number of teardown videos of failed engines where there was a bunch of gasket maker or other things plugging it up...
My car used 20 of the M8 x 26 bolts for the oil pan and 5 of the long 112mm and 3 mid sized 92mm. The one 36mm or whatever bolt actually should be that long. looking at the oil pan there is a raised section where this bolt goes so the short bolts wont use as many threads as the others.. maybe be easier on this one when torquing??
Mark bolts as you tighten each one.. it IS easy to forget where you are!
There was a little black plastic support piece that goes on the bottom of the passenger side engine bracket that the mount bolts to - It fell off while removing the subframe and took a while to figure out where it came from!
On top of the engine brackets that you bolt the mounts to usually have a lot of built up grit that would interfere with the torque I'm guessing.. cleaned that off first from underneath.
I removed the tie rods from the steering knuckle. I figured alignment wouldn't be an issue but the car now noticeably pulls to the right where it didn't before. dang.
When putting the half shafts into the diff be sure that the splines are engaged before putting pressure or hammering to get the c-clips snapped in. If you just hammer away or pull it out a bit before hammering and they dont line up you can screw up the splines.
When jacking up the car from the brake rotor, I thought that that little bolt was the only thing holding the brake rotor on so I put a couple wheel bolts on as well and a screwdriver in rotor vent. I jacked it up slightly to the front of center of the rotor so that if it rotated, it'd hit caliper with the screwdriver within a mm or two.
The front of the subframe where the sway bar and hard coolant line and power steering lines run... Who designed that?! I put the sway bar on backwards and had the bright idea to just swap the end links but then the bend in the bar was backwards.. ugh and that third bolt to the right for the coolant line... you almost need ET fingers. This car was obviously designed to be assembled as compactly as possible with only a bit of effort in future maintenance considerations. But the german cars can be so nice when they're working! :)
Thanks for the feedback and very thorough list of helpful suggestions! Glad you found the video useful. It takes a long time to put together but knowing that it helps folks makes it worthwhile. Subsequent to this job I had to change my steering shaft (was a little slop in the universal joint). Another method to release the universal joint from the rack is to place a nut inside the joint and then use an air hammer with a chisel bit to wedge between the joint and the nut. Worked extremely well for me.
Amazing video! Thanks for all the detail, my front diff blew and figured I'd do the oil pan gasket while I was in there, Thanks!
That was a good idea to do the OPG while you were in there. I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Glad to see new e90 tutorials coming out. Will be doing my 06 n52b30 xdrive oil pan in the spring.
Thanks, Mike. I hope the video will prove helpful. Let us know how it goes next spring.
Thank you for this! Gonna tackle it this week.
Sorry I missed this. If you have a chance let us know how it went.
I think I ran out of space so here's a bit more:
I think that's it for the oil pan specifically but with the subframe out and a failed water pump, I looked for other things to replace while it's easy. So I did the following also:
water pump and thermostat and all coolant hoses. The mickey mouse hose on the top front of the engine by the oil filter housing snapped off like all the videos show.. everything plastic or rubber really was pretty iffy... oh and don't put the thermostat on the pump first.. i tried that and after 10 minutes of getting progressively angrier trying to get the first hose on with the thermostat partially in the way, I just unbolted the thermostat and it popped on it 2 seconds. Doh!
With all the leaking oil on the front of the engine I wanted to replace the belt and pulleys. one pulley had built up ribs of old oil or something. On closer inspection I could see cracking in the belt that wasn't apparent when installed. Be careful when ordering the parts if you do this. Theres apparently two types of tensioner and I bought the wrong one. The torx hole used to release tension was mostly covered up by the pulley next to it on the wrong one.. compare pics of yours when shopping.
Some vacuum lines were feeling weak so I replaced them all with silicone. They say 5 meters is enough but it BARELY was for me and I didn't have enough to do the piece near the left muffler that opens the baffle... at least im moderately sure there's a rubber piece back there. Also the hose to the rear turbo would be impossible with the subframe in I believe...
oxygen sensors - I noticed fuel trim being off and the car running rich with black soot in exhaust pipe before the water pump died so I replaced the pre cat O2 sensors. Again, would be super pita with subframe in place.
I think that's all I can remember. I'll leave you with one last suggestion: Keep a drain pan ready whenever taking off anything with fluids normally in it. I was 99.99% sure that I drained the oil a year earlier so I pulled off the oil level sensor... ya.. it looked like those movies where someone gets shot or cut in half by a monster and you see this wave of blood coming under the door. It takes about two of those super jumbo paper towel rolls to soak up 7 quarts of oil I learned that day.
Bro you the best I have a e90 n52 my front diff is gone and I start having that pan leaking too you gave me the strength to do it myself thank you bro
That’s terrific to hear. Thank you for letting me know that you found it helpful.
Thanks for the video
No problem!
About to do this thank you
Glad you found it helpful and hope it went well.
very very thorough! that car sure gets some love :)
Thanks! Yes, it does indeed. And it’s had quite a bit more in the past couple of weeks. Ergo another very thorough video to come.
@@pcardoctor5492 perfect! That’s a nice car for an N54 they’re all destroyed around here in okc. Shit even my car isn’t that nice and it’s a 328i🤣 need to get my oil pan done asap
@@catalyst_yt1472 Yeah, I’ve been noticing E series cars around here tend to look their age too. It’s unfortunate because they can be kept in great shape. Good luck with the OPG. Given that you live in okc hopefully you won’t have to deal with that rusted subframe bolt
@@pcardoctor5492 yeah I sure hope! Yeah it sucks. They’re turning into how e46’s were a few years ago… mine looks decent but I’m sure not as nice as yours!
Hey thank you so much for this amazing DIY. Im about to attempt it next weekend and think i have most everything.
Do you have a list of parts and specialty tools you used? Want to make sure im not missing anything!
I don’t have a list but every part I replaced and every tool I used is shown in the video. So the video is a de facto comprehensive list. Let us know how it goes.
Man I just did my gasket on RWD 328i E90 and holy god what a PITA! First it was the crank blocking the pan from coming out, then while dropping the pan after discovering it was the crankshaft blocking the oil pan I broke one of ends for the oil pump chain guide. And the wind happened to be strong enough to blow my hood down which sent the support bar in the middle resulting in a nice cracked bump in my hood.
To finish it off I found some remnants of BMW metal clips in the oil pickup line. I truly hate you sleezeballs who do this crap to these cars then have the audacity to sell them. I wish very bad karma on these people for this reason.
Hi
Do you think this procedure is similar with 11’328i iL6 xDrive?
I haven't worked on that car so don't know. I'd guess that the xdrive part is similar and so the video should give you a sense of what's involved. But, of course, you'll need to do research on your specific car.
Licensed tech.
Factory prodedure said remove negative battery cable.
School says always supply power to computers via an OBD breakout box. I did.
Removed negative battery cable.
Upon completion, reconnected battery. Completed job and everything is mint. Titties as i say... Check for leaks after running engine for a while. No leaks. Looks great. Awesome!
Go to remove car from bay. Windows dont work. Lights dont work.
What the fuck!
Scan all modules..
Footwell module has lost its programming. All EPROM gone. Cannot communicate with footwell module. (Module responsible for power windows etc.)
Call dealer praying for some info. Dealer says problem very common. Some bullshit about design doesnt allow power to be supplied to footwell module memory if negative battery cable is disconnected, regardless of external power being supplied. Must be replaced! 2000$. You read that correct.
What the fucking fuck!
Friend owns shop specializing in euro. Says he can reprogram. 200$. Thank fuck. BUT. Must explain to customer. Customer not fucking happy. I pay for it. Fuck can I do. He is very good customer and friend. Next time I will warn. Next time I will not disconnect battery. It is pointless. No reason to disconnect. Not when all parameters can be relearned within minutes of running the car at idle.
BMW.
Beautiful, might work.
Best of luck my beautiful car friends!
P.s. since event, i have welded on these cars for hours on end. Hours. Countless hours. Diagnosed many many issues that required a disconnect of the battery per manufacturing standards. Never did. Have not had an issue since. THAT BEING SAID I CANNOT ADVISE YOU TO DO THE OPPOSITE OF WHAT THE MANUFACTURER, THE DEALER, AND THE REPAIR MANUAL TELL YOU TO DO.
I am simply sharing my experience with these machines. Cheers.
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