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Amazing video - nice job!

I appreciate the patience to make this tutorial

This is indeed a great video that helped me tremendously to do the job of an evaporator replacement. I also relied on the Milestone Motors as it is showing the work in motion. I have a couple of comments: 1. If you are going to embark on the journey, work really but it feels like an odyssey when you are doing it, be prepared for minor variations. My 2009 328i, so LCI, is manual. Some parts of the video do not apply. One notable exception was that the airbag in the steering wheel was in a different harness and had only one connector. 2. The styrofoam piece that has to be taken off before the cage comes off can not only have the plastic screw turned out of it but it can also have it turned back in. The plastic screw has a Torx head that is not too difficult to access. I made a mistake of putting it back too soon and then had to take it off again because I had not installed the plastic vent on the left side of the heater box. The styrofoam had no damage and it looked like it did after I took it out at first. 3. I broke a tab while taking off the back cover where the vents for the back seat are. There is an exceptionally high, protruding knob that the tab has an eyelet for. If you know that it is there you can see it at the bottom when the top is partly separated and pry the tab off the knob. Fortunately these cars do show up in scrap yards so it was not too hard to replace the cover. 4. I think that the wooden trim strips, one short one on the left side of the steering wheel and one long one on the right, which is on my car is of black shiny plastic should rather be attacked from the side of the steering wheel. At least the short piece can easily be taken out that way, the long one may be more difficult. The outside pins, the ones by the doors, have metal holders and they do not release easily but rather slide their heads out of the plastic trim. For reinstallation I had to extract these pins out of their metal holders. In any case, thank you PCar Doctor for putting this video together. It is invaluable.

How long did this take you roughly to do . I have the same dash single hump and i want to tackle this before i swap out my ac compressor

6:20, what is this bolt for? Why remove?

What set are those green hand tools from? They look pretty useful.

Man I just did my gasket on RWD 328i E90 and holy god what a PITA! First it was the crank blocking the pan from coming out, then while dropping the pan after discovering it was the crankshaft blocking the oil pan I broke one of ends for the oil pump chain guide. And the wind happened to be strong enough to blow my hood down which sent the support bar in the middle resulting in a nice cracked bump in my hood. To finish it off I found some remnants of BMW metal clips in the oil pickup line. I truly hate you sleezeballs who do this crap to these cars then have the audacity to sell them. I wish very bad karma on these people for this reason.

Thanks for the video. I’ve got to pull them both. So far only one broken rear cat stud. Fronts come out tomorrow. Nice wood block brace 16:26

I think I ran out of space so here's a bit more: I think that's it for the oil pan specifically but with the subframe out and a failed water pump, I looked for other things to replace while it's easy. So I did the following also: water pump and thermostat and all coolant hoses. The mickey mouse hose on the top front of the engine by the oil filter housing snapped off like all the videos show.. everything plastic or rubber really was pretty iffy... oh and don't put the thermostat on the pump first.. i tried that and after 10 minutes of getting progressively angrier trying to get the first hose on with the thermostat partially in the way, I just unbolted the thermostat and it popped on it 2 seconds. Doh! With all the leaking oil on the front of the engine I wanted to replace the belt and pulleys. one pulley had built up ribs of old oil or something. On closer inspection I could see cracking in the belt that wasn't apparent when installed. Be careful when ordering the parts if you do this. Theres apparently two types of tensioner and I bought the wrong one. The torx hole used to release tension was mostly covered up by the pulley next to it on the wrong one.. compare pics of yours when shopping. Some vacuum lines were feeling weak so I replaced them all with silicone. They say 5 meters is enough but it BARELY was for me and I didn't have enough to do the piece near the left muffler that opens the baffle... at least im moderately sure there's a rubber piece back there. Also the hose to the rear turbo would be impossible with the subframe in I believe... oxygen sensors - I noticed fuel trim being off and the car running rich with black soot in exhaust pipe before the water pump died so I replaced the pre cat O2 sensors. Again, would be super pita with subframe in place. I think that's all I can remember. I'll leave you with one last suggestion: Keep a drain pan ready whenever taking off anything with fluids normally in it. I was 99.99% sure that I drained the oil a year earlier so I pulled off the oil level sensor... ya.. it looked like those movies where someone gets shot or cut in half by a monster and you see this wave of blood coming under the door. It takes about two of those super jumbo paper towel rolls to soak up 7 quarts of oil I learned that day.

Thanks for the video, doc. I've watched all the bmw 335 OPG videos over the last couple years but found yours the most complete and used it to finally finished the job. I used your video as a checklist but I still managed to put things back on out of order as I did a lot more preventive maintenance. I even gave my subframe TWO coats of paint as well as the rusty vac canister bracket that every 335 has! :) Anyway, I have a number of comments that may help someone so here goes: I have a manual xdrive coupe with about 113k miles. Remember to lower the frameless windows an inch so you can open the doors after disconnecting the battery. Do check your ground strap. Mine was green but looked solid but as soon as I moved it it started fraying. Parts guy was saying how they've seen lots of strange problems when it's degraded like that. The 3 steel bolts at the back of the oil pan seemed to have thread sealant on them when I took them off so I put some on just in case. The thread chaser was a good idea. I had a tap set and tried that but it didnt feel right so I ordered a proper thread chaser set for 20 bucks on amazon.. worked great. one of the oil pan bolt holes had a lot of crust and took a little work. I was impressed with the thing and used it on most of the significant bolts and nuts that I reused. I took off the steering shaft from the rack... total and complete PITA. splined shaft was all corroded... I struggled for literally hours getting the damn thing off and may have damaged the splines a bit. Used a wire brush and it looked ok but when I put it on I smartened up a tad and got a slide hammer. Man that is a great tool.. whacked the thing on in just a couple minutes after forgetting I had it and struggling a while. Depending on how high you lifted the engine with the support bar, you may not be able to get the front drive shaft on until the engine is back on the subframe. Mine was more than 1/2" too far away. Oh and I didnt modify the tow hook and started this job in Aug or Sep of 2022! It wasnt a problem for the year and 9 months although my harbor freight engine support bar did look a little banana-like at the end... I have a lot of jack stands so had those all over just in case though. The advice to clean the ledge on the block above the oil pan before removing it is good. Mine had so much crud and oil blown all over. I think I used 10 cans of brake cleaner to clean the engine and transmission. Very useful for front of the engine under the pullies if you change them. The walmart guy in the auto section got to know me for how often I had to go back. When the oil pan is off, look at the screen deep inside the oil pickup tube. I've seen a number of teardown videos of failed engines where there was a bunch of gasket maker or other things plugging it up... My car used 20 of the M8 x 26 bolts for the oil pan and 5 of the long 112mm and 3 mid sized 92mm. The one 36mm or whatever bolt actually should be that long. looking at the oil pan there is a raised section where this bolt goes so the short bolts wont use as many threads as the others.. maybe be easier on this one when torquing?? Mark bolts as you tighten each one.. it IS easy to forget where you are! There was a little black plastic support piece that goes on the bottom of the passenger side engine bracket that the mount bolts to - It fell off while removing the subframe and took a while to figure out where it came from! On top of the engine brackets that you bolt the mounts to usually have a lot of built up grit that would interfere with the torque I'm guessing.. cleaned that off first from underneath. I removed the tie rods from the steering knuckle. I figured alignment wouldn't be an issue but the car now noticeably pulls to the right where it didn't before. dang. When putting the half shafts into the diff be sure that the splines are engaged before putting pressure or hammering to get the c-clips snapped in. If you just hammer away or pull it out a bit before hammering and they dont line up you can screw up the splines. When jacking up the car from the brake rotor, I thought that that little bolt was the only thing holding the brake rotor on so I put a couple wheel bolts on as well and a screwdriver in rotor vent. I jacked it up slightly to the front of center of the rotor so that if it rotated, it'd hit caliper with the screwdriver within a mm or two. The front of the subframe where the sway bar and hard coolant line and power steering lines run... Who designed that?! I put the sway bar on backwards and had the bright idea to just swap the end links but then the bend in the bar was backwards.. ugh and that third bolt to the right for the coolant line... you almost need ET fingers. This car was obviously designed to be assembled as compactly as possible with only a bit of effort in future maintenance considerations. But the german cars can be so nice when they're working! :)

So the relay board connection only give power to the fuel pump it sounds like. This being the can I would just send power to the fuel pump instead of involving the relay board. Sound about right?

Can you share what you had to hook to run this?

Very nice run stand. I'm trying to run a 1974 2.0 the same way but will not be making that fancy of a run stand

Licensed tech. Factory prodedure said remove negative battery cable. School says always supply power to computers via an OBD breakout box. I did. Removed negative battery cable. Upon completion, reconnected battery. Completed job and everything is mint. Titties as i say... Check for leaks after running engine for a while. No leaks. Looks great. Awesome! Go to remove car from bay. Windows dont work. Lights dont work. What the fuck! Scan all modules.. Footwell module has lost its programming. All EPROM gone. Cannot communicate with footwell module. (Module responsible for power windows etc.) Call dealer praying for some info. Dealer says problem very common. Some bullshit about design doesnt allow power to be supplied to footwell module memory if negative battery cable is disconnected, regardless of external power being supplied. Must be replaced! 2000$. You read that correct. What the fucking fuck! Friend owns shop specializing in euro. Says he can reprogram. 200$. Thank fuck. BUT. Must explain to customer. Customer not fucking happy. I pay for it. Fuck can I do. He is very good customer and friend. Next time I will warn. Next time I will not disconnect battery. It is pointless. No reason to disconnect. Not when all parameters can be relearned within minutes of running the car at idle. BMW. Beautiful, might work. Best of luck my beautiful car friends! P.s. since event, i have welded on these cars for hours on end. Hours. Countless hours. Diagnosed many many issues that required a disconnect of the battery per manufacturing standards. Never did. Have not had an issue since. THAT BEING SAID I CANNOT ADVISE YOU TO DO THE OPPOSITE OF WHAT THE MANUFACTURER, THE DEALER, AND THE REPAIR MANUAL TELL YOU TO DO. I am simply sharing my experience with these machines. Cheers. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

Thanks for the video

Thanks for uploading this, I like to see something done before I agree to tackle the job for the first time!

Hi Do you think this procedure is similar with 11’328i iL6 xDrive?

About to do this thank you

Fantastic video 🤘💯 thank you

Just did this over the weekend on my ‘08 Cayenne S using 4 jackstands. I really appreciate the video, I don’t think I would have attempted it without seeing all the steps involved. I’m not aware of any other video detailing this. A few suggestions to add: 1. If you don’t have a shop torch, consider buying a new secondary cat. The studs are extremely difficult to remove, even after drilling out. 2. Support transmission and remove crossmember from car before removing the 2 mounting bolts (16mm is also not a common size in most sets) 3. Spray header studs with liquid wrench using multiple applications and at least a full day

Thank you for this! Gonna tackle it this week.

Hey thank you so much for this amazing DIY. Im about to attempt it next weekend and think i have most everything. Do you have a list of parts and specialty tools you used? Want to make sure im not missing anything!

Is this the same for a 2012 Cayanne s hybrid??

very very thorough! that car sure gets some love :)

Should I replace the transfer pipe? Is it plastic?

I’m gonna do this myself never worked on a car in my life and I won’t go to a mechanic cause I know they’ll take advantage of my lack of car knowledge

Thanks for this. It's time i replace my 957 S with a PHEV but with the current market I'm going to keep the Cayenne on the road as long as I can. Was dreading removing the intake again after I had to replace the starter around 100k. The thermostat and water pump were replaced around 65k and I'm close to 140k now. These things are reliable if you take care of them

Amazing video! Thanks for all the detail, my front diff blew and figured I'd do the oil pan gasket while I was in there, Thanks!

Is it possible to get a wiring diagram of how you hooked it up?

Bro you the best I have a e90 n52 my front diff is gone and I start having that pan leaking too you gave me the strength to do it myself thank you bro

Glad to see new e90 tutorials coming out. Will be doing my 06 n52b30 xdrive oil pan in the spring.

THANK YOU SOO MUCH!

Thanks for the instructions, just got done with my thermostat replacement. I used a long screwdriver horizontal across both cylinder heads to pry out the thermostat/socket along with 3 zip ties. I found the worst part was removing the lower rad hose - mine seemed stuck on but eventually came loose by rocking up and down. Overall it was not too bad.

I have the old thermostat out, but I cannot move the new thermostat all the way to the back of the housing because a small lip inside the housing.

Fantastic job!

Windshield washer fluid works awesome are rinsing off coolant and burns off with minimum smell.

Is this the same process for the v6 Cayenne . And what if I delete the thermostat . Will it over heat my engine ? Because a mechanic told me that. And I live in Qatar and climate is always hot so yeah I don't have to worry about freezing liquids

Thanks for sharing excellent tutorial, clear photos are much better than fuzzy videos. BTW, do you have torque values for 5 water pump E-torx screws?

Nice video. I think there is better way to bleed the system. Just let the tank cap open because it is the highhest position and start the car, it will bleed the system by bubbling the air out.

Does this work for a 955 as well by chance?

You don't need to remove any hoses at all. Just did this on my 957CTTS. I loosen the belt, remove the water pump and left it in the valley, then removed the thermostat. You loose probably a couple quarts of coolant. Replace in reverse order. Only thing I removed was the Y pipe. No pressurizing, just refill and keep checking for couple days. Zero issues,

This is exactly what I'm looking for! Thank you. Ordered parts and will do this next weekend.

Very nice work!!!

They work better in a car you know

WOW. Beautifully, elegantly done.

nice build...very clean