Here’s some info after running Transmission for a race season. Hopefully it helps someone. This is not a cost conscious drivetrain by any means. The biggest cost for me is chains (50USD), chainrings (90USD), and cassettes (250USD). They’re all still wear components. I haven’t experienced any longer component life compared to SRAM mechanical. I will look into road chains. That sounds interesting… My wallet is crying. The mere existence of S1000 is evil. Get the component on someone’s bike and then they pay out the wazoo to replace anything. The GX cassette is a beast in my experience. Only buy up for weight savings or looks. The pod controller is still a point of contention. I eventually got used to it and now I don’t mind it at all. Just be sure to angle it up so you’re not having to reach for it. I have both an XXSL and GX derailuer. I am certain the GX is more refined. The new battery design is much cleaner to interact with. There are several component design differences. At 7:43 in the video you can actually see scrapes on a portion of the inner XX/XXSL cage. I’m convinced this is a design flaw as it’s not present on the steel GX inner plate. This scraping occurs when shifting rapidly into the large cogs, where a collision sometimes occurs. Interestingly enough I find that GX has play at the hangar where my XXSL is rock solid. (This will sound familiar to the trick we used with the Mechanical Eagle hangar interface). I’m not entirely certain, but at this point I think the GX play is intentional. I find the higher end derailleurs shift crisper. It’s not a huge difference, but it’s there. BUY THE DERAILLEURS W/ WARRANTY. They will fail. There are several known flaws among the community. These are not good second hand products. The components, although modular, I find are still fairly expensive for what they are and are sometimes hard to find. Still better than Shimano I suppose. Oh, and the install. Follow it to the T. If you install it incorrectly it will cause issues. Shift through each cog in a stand and check for collisions. Always be cautious to be sure the drivetrain isn’t getting hung up on shifts. It can and will cause crashes when high power is applied. Im still concerned the knurled washer is capable of damaging the dropout. I try not to hold it in position with a small flathead when tightening and loosening the hangar bolt. If anyone has any specific questions just @ me. I’d also love to hear everyone else’s traumas and tricks with this thing 🫠
Good info thanks. I was considering t-type for my enduro season, but after reading and looking up all the issues, i think I’ll stick with shimano. I eat bike parts like no body’s business, so reliability, repairably, and cost are a huge issue. Thanks for the write up!
About your last point about install: the derailleur bolt does not need to be torqued to 35nm if you (someone in general not specifically you) are nervous about tightening it so much, it’s a lot …. 25nm is sufficient. Hope Tech recommends 25nm for their bolt kit. I’ve run Transmission since basically the day it was released and there is no difference in performance with 25nm. It shifts identically.
@@Jon-f3wCorrect. Early bolts from SRAM used to say lower too (~30nm?). There was a note in the service manual about it functioning fine at the lower torque values, but it was raised because some users reported a loss in chain tension over time and they claim 35nm remedied the issue.
Here’s a follow up on my road chain findings. TLDR it should be fine? (As long as you’re at or below 120 links). The only tangible difference I can find is the inner coating. The GX chain has a hardened coating, the Rival does not. I found this harder coating to make a reasonable difference to component life to justify back with *mechanical* GX -> XO, but I’ll have to run the numbers with the new pricing. I’ve heard from others that SRAM states the MTB chains are reinforced for shifting under load, but I’ve also heard of guys running these things on EBikes. From my understanding these chains run on the new XPLR too, so it’s gotta have some beef to it.
@@RC-fp1tlYeah, I really want to love this system. Shifting under load is so much fun. Some parts of this system are durable. No doubt improvements will come down the line. It just doesn’t check those reliability, longevity, and cost boxes.
I believe the GX derailleur has a design flaw. There are a lot of reports online about the battery pogo pins failure in all AXS products of both generations. These pins being soldered to the main board instead of a daughter board connected with wires makes it a repair nightmare if you have this issue. Further it is the first AXS product where the battery is mounted horizontally from the top. If there is not a perfect seal, any moisture that gets under the battery will run down the pins causing corrosion, making this failure more likely than other AXS products with different battery mount. What some call a more refined design I call a step against repairability. Go lookup "gx transmission pin failure" here on youtube and I believe you will not buy it.
A video on how you grease the pogo pins would be cool. Sounds like a pretty good idea. I went with GX for the next bike. The only relevant weight saving seems to be in the cassette anyways.
My take on T type. It is nice but ludicrous expensive. Here is how i mitigate it a bit. I have a XX setup on my XC race bike but i use the XX cassette only for racing with a second GX cassette for training. I would steer away from GX chain because it doesn't have the hard coating so it'll wear much faster and damage the other component. I use force off season which is cheaper and hard coated and i put a XO for the mtb summer season for extra safety of mind. I change the chains early (use a digital caliper for wear) to prevent cassette/chainring wear. I also wax my chains to add durability but during winter i use also watermixed wax so it's not to painfull to keep up (effetto mariposa flowerpower). As other have said steer away from GX derailleur the battery connections corrode.
Thanks for sharing your experience! As for the GX....a little bit of dielectric grease can go a long way! I know, we shouldn't need to use that but I guess you get what you paid for?
From my understanding these GX flattop chains do have the hardened coating on the inner pins (unlike the classic GX). The rival chain doesn’t appear to be hardened. The force one is, but it’s comparable in cost to the GX. (~45USD). Have you been able to find force any cheaper?
@@NewbGamingNetworks On sram website the GX chain documentation just say the pins are solid. Non mention of nickel or pvd coating contrary to force or XO chain
On another channel whose name I cannot remember, suggested having a flat set battery on th GX made it susceptible to corrosion on the electrical pins via standing water (dampness) not draining through via a vertical mount on the X0. Any thoughts? I don't mind one way or another to be fair, X-Type is too rich for me to make any change and looks to me at least, to be designed with e-bikes in mind.
They did have eBikes in mind when designing this for sure. Kind of silly that they need all this tech to address what Shimano CUES did using mechanical means. Quite a few talked a bout the corrosion here, dielectric grease can help if used early.
sram 11 speed 1195 cassette paired with shimano xtr 11 speed derailleur and shifter is the ULTIMATE mtb setup, Sram t-type adds so much cost, weight and complexity for almost nothing positive in return, I guess its good for people with weak thumbs
Or artritis or other issues with their hands. I still use an 11s 10-42t on my gravel bike w Shimano drivetrain but for MTB that range is not quite enough for a 1x system
Agreed, but I use XT cassette too - very cheap £69. Also the T type mechs are very heavy - about 200g heavier than the m8000 gs if my findings are correct.
I have been using XX1 axis and XX SL t-type since these came out. I have one bike with full shimamo xtr and I love shimano xtr over sram. I am actually going away from sram and going to shimano xtr. Personally the shimano stuff is awesome and I know shimano xtr is mechanical but never the less I can’t seem myself moving away from shiamno.
All my bikes have XT. This Winter i bought one with SRAM GX AXS. Now with some km on it i say: no, compaired to XT the GX AXS is not better than XT. Its OK to ride, but better? No. And worth the price to pay a lot more? Noooo. The Transmission i haven't tried yet, but after that experience with AXS and the costs compaired to XT i dont have any desires to buy SRAM
I am a fan of weight, replacement cost, and lack of charging a battery on the XT. I haven't put many miles on Transmission, but when I have I havent been completely sold.
have you weighed the XX and GX cage once disassembled? if so, what are the weights? And have you weighed the GX and XX without the cage ? Is there a difference?
My limited tests weighing a GX cage vs a XXSL cage there is a difference in some components. Other components are identical. The inner cage for example is steel VS carbon. Basically half the weight. There is a SRAM parts catalog if you’re curious as to specific parts.
To save some money I went with a GX derailleur, XO cassette, the older style paddle shifter that came with the AXS non Transmission derailleur and a Wolf Tooth conversion chain ring so I could keep my current GX eagle cranks. Personally I like the older style paddle shifter the best. The pod version was not for me. Also I found right away the clutch on the derailleur to be weak. I ride right foot back and my cranks are so beat up from chain slap.
I'd suggest anyone who's using, or plan to use, the GX Transmission to apply some electric grease on the contact points to prevent water ingress. There are reports online about the pins corroded due to moisture.
My GX just had a pogo pin fail after 15 months of PNW riding. Up until that point I liked the setup. Quick temporary fix is putting a tiny piece of solder with some grease on the circular battery terminal to make that pin connect again.
Wheeltop yes 11 or 12 or if it goes 13 i was thinking that and got archer components but the motor burned app problems batteries im back mechanical xtr 12 and love it...
These pins do fail. I’ve had them fail on my AXS and both my transmission XXSL and GX derailleurs just the same. For me it seems to be the springs inside the pins failing rather than corrosion. The result is the same. A bricked derailleur. Always buy these components with warranty in mind.
@@NewbGamingNetworks the reason springs fail is due to corrosion. All AXS suffers from this, but GX and newest Transmissions are even more prone due to battery orientation. Red XPLR users are even more doomed considering the insane pricetag.
Good info! I have a question that I’m sure you covered on a previous video BUT is the T-Type derailleur backwards compatible? I have an AXS GX derailleur that needs replaced so I thought maybe I’d just buy the UDH T-Type
I purchased the XX cassette because my new GX cassette had a very slight warp when spun. It did not affect the performance, but it bothered me... knowing that it was not true. Again, EVER so slight, but REALLY?
The pinned cassettes have wider tolerances vs X-dome. I've seen and experienced that with their previous Eagle cassettes, interesting that they're still ok with that kind of quality
@ All my stuff is second hand, but unused. A lot get taken off E-bikes. I just keep an eye out on ebay etc. I payed £180 ($219) for brand new transmission X0 cranks recently..... If you look around and are patient you can save huge amounts.
sir, i just have a question about the shimano cues. Isn't the Shimano Cues RD 11 speed limited to 48t to 50t? Is the Deore cassette 11t/51t still comfortable? I saw your page, I hope you can reply, thank you
I’m wondering if the GX Transmission derailleur can be used with the old AXS shifter? And can the regular GX Eagle non-Transmission components be combined with the GX T-Type derailleur? Has anyone had any experience with this? ✌️
I personally haven’t seen a difference in aluminum chainring life as compared to mechanical SRAM. ~3000mi for me if I had to ballpark it. Steel chainrings will always last much longer regardless, but they’re awfully heavy.
still using the old 10-50t and the 42-50T jump does not feel excessive. My son never complained about the 44-52 either after using Shimano 12s so I don't think it's an issue. And BTW this drivetrain won world championships so we might be nitpicky on the details😉
Stan should have never released the Axs gx. Let the peasants use wires. X0/xx should only be had in Axs only. I love my xx1 on my megatower and tallboy.
The GX is garbage mine was installed by Trek and the micro adjuster were a failure out of the box! SRAM refused to do anything absolutely the worst customer service in the biking industry. The cassette was torqued to the required 40nm add it came loose and that happened on several others, that have been reported on MTB channel. The system is garbage.
Pretty sure they recommend Loctite for the cassette something that NO LBS will do or know about it. Otherwise it works for many many ppl, have to go to a different shop
Hey man, no disrespect but this is a very confusing video. I was not needed you already done like 10 videos. I don’t understand the point of this. Why would anyone mix-and-match all these different piece pieces? I’m sorry, but this is ridiculous video
Well, you mix and match because they are all compatible with each other. GX cage assembly for instance. They tend to break so it can be a good replacement for the more expensive options. Also the redesign of the derailleur. So here's why I thought this was useful to the community🙄
@@LoveMTBI appreciate the content. Always great to see others perspectives, especially with how new and fundamentally different Transmission is. Thanks for putting the effort in 🤘
I was told I might have to go with a Deore 1X 11spd. crank instead of a 1X M8000 XT l😭l. The Deore is about $160.00🍁+ $85.00 for the chainring. I was also told I can put an M8000 XT 1X chainring on a M8100 XT crank; is this accurate? The only places I've seen selling 1X M8000 XT crank arms is a bike shop in Quebec (they're also selling the 1X M8000 XT chainring🤙🤙) and Amazon. Bezos wants ridiculous prices; the prices are TOO MARKED UP❗️
Here’s some info after running Transmission for a race season. Hopefully it helps someone.
This is not a cost conscious drivetrain by any means. The biggest cost for me is chains (50USD), chainrings (90USD), and cassettes (250USD). They’re all still wear components. I haven’t experienced any longer component life compared to SRAM mechanical. I will look into road chains. That sounds interesting…
My wallet is crying. The mere existence of S1000 is evil. Get the component on someone’s bike and then they pay out the wazoo to replace anything.
The GX cassette is a beast in my experience. Only buy up for weight savings or looks.
The pod controller is still a point of contention. I eventually got used to it and now I don’t mind it at all. Just be sure to angle it up so you’re not having to reach for it.
I have both an XXSL and GX derailuer. I am certain the GX is more refined. The new battery design is much cleaner to interact with. There are several component design differences. At 7:43 in the video you can actually see scrapes on a portion of the inner XX/XXSL cage. I’m convinced this is a design flaw as it’s not present on the steel GX inner plate. This scraping occurs when shifting rapidly into the large cogs, where a collision sometimes occurs.
Interestingly enough I find that GX has play at the hangar where my XXSL is rock solid. (This will sound familiar to the trick we used with the Mechanical Eagle hangar interface). I’m not entirely certain, but at this point I think the GX play is intentional. I find the higher end derailleurs shift crisper. It’s not a huge difference, but it’s there.
BUY THE DERAILLEURS W/ WARRANTY. They will fail. There are several known flaws among the community. These are not good second hand products.
The components, although modular, I find are still fairly expensive for what they are and are sometimes hard to find. Still better than Shimano I suppose.
Oh, and the install. Follow it to the T. If you install it incorrectly it will cause issues. Shift through each cog in a stand and check for collisions. Always be cautious to be sure the drivetrain isn’t getting hung up on shifts. It can and will cause crashes when high power is applied. Im still concerned the knurled washer is capable of damaging the dropout. I try not to hold it in position with a small flathead when tightening and loosening the hangar bolt.
If anyone has any specific questions just @ me. I’d also love to hear everyone else’s traumas and tricks with this thing 🫠
Good info thanks. I was considering t-type for my enduro season, but after reading and looking up all the issues, i think I’ll stick with shimano. I eat bike parts like no body’s business, so reliability, repairably, and cost are a huge issue.
Thanks for the write up!
About your last point about install: the derailleur bolt does not need to be torqued to 35nm if you (someone in general not specifically you) are nervous about tightening it so much, it’s a lot …. 25nm is sufficient. Hope Tech recommends 25nm for their bolt kit. I’ve run Transmission since basically the day it was released and there is no difference in performance with 25nm. It shifts identically.
@@Jon-f3wCorrect. Early bolts from SRAM used to say lower too (~30nm?). There was a note in the service manual about it functioning fine at the lower torque values, but it was raised because some users reported a loss in chain tension over time and they claim 35nm remedied the issue.
Here’s a follow up on my road chain findings. TLDR it should be fine? (As long as you’re at or below 120 links). The only tangible difference I can find is the inner coating. The GX chain has a hardened coating, the Rival does not. I found this harder coating to make a reasonable difference to component life to justify back with *mechanical* GX -> XO, but I’ll have to run the numbers with the new pricing. I’ve heard from others that SRAM states the MTB chains are reinforced for shifting under load, but I’ve also heard of guys running these things on EBikes. From my understanding these chains run on the new XPLR too, so it’s gotta have some beef to it.
@@RC-fp1tlYeah, I really want to love this system. Shifting under load is so much fun. Some parts of this system are durable. No doubt improvements will come down the line. It just doesn’t check those reliability, longevity, and cost boxes.
I believe the GX derailleur has a design flaw. There are a lot of reports online about the battery pogo pins failure in all AXS products of both generations. These pins being soldered to the main board instead of a daughter board connected with wires makes it a repair nightmare if you have this issue. Further it is the first AXS product where the battery is mounted horizontally from the top. If there is not a perfect seal, any moisture that gets under the battery will run down the pins causing corrosion, making this failure more likely than other AXS products with different battery mount. What some call a more refined design I call a step against repairability. Go lookup "gx transmission pin failure" here on youtube and I believe you will not buy it.
I hear you, highly recommend using dielectric grease on those contacts and the tiny seal around anyway.
Literally just had a pin fail on mine yesterday. Gx axs T . 15 months of riding
@ wow that’s quick. Warranty I assume?
@ Currently in the works.
If that were the case, it would also be the same problem with the fork flight attendant battery as well.... I've never had any problems with them...
Rocker pod is my favorite version of the remotes. XO cranks are super nice looking aluminum cranks. Love the black and polished silver two-tone.
Yes and yes. Have both, X) cranks already show scratches on them without much use
A video on how you grease the pogo pins would be cool. Sounds like a pretty good idea. I went with GX for the next bike. The only relevant weight saving seems to be in the cassette anyways.
I'll see what I can do about that
GX AXS T on my Stumpy Evo. Full season on it. Basically perfect.
So old ASX?
Nope, new.
Got my first bike with SRAM drive train (Trek Roscoe 8), I'll need to figure out which BB to get as a spare, 148mm rear
Have a few videos on BBs, check them out! Also a How-to build a bike from scratch series, that gives you the entire explanation.
My take on T type. It is nice but ludicrous expensive. Here is how i mitigate it a bit. I have a XX setup on my XC race bike but i use the XX cassette only for racing with a second GX cassette for training. I would steer away from GX chain because it doesn't have the hard coating so it'll wear much faster and damage the other component. I use force off season which is cheaper and hard coated and i put a XO for the mtb summer season for extra safety of mind. I change the chains early (use a digital caliper for wear) to prevent cassette/chainring wear. I also wax my chains to add durability but during winter i use also watermixed wax so it's not to painfull to keep up (effetto mariposa flowerpower).
As other have said steer away from GX derailleur the battery connections corrode.
Thanks for sharing your experience! As for the GX....a little bit of dielectric grease can go a long way! I know, we shouldn't need to use that but I guess you get what you paid for?
From my understanding these GX flattop chains do have the hardened coating on the inner pins (unlike the classic GX). The rival chain doesn’t appear to be hardened. The force one is, but it’s comparable in cost to the GX. (~45USD). Have you been able to find force any cheaper?
@@NewbGamingNetworks On sram website the GX chain documentation just say the pins are solid. Non mention of nickel or pvd coating contrary to force or XO chain
On another channel whose name I cannot remember, suggested having a flat set battery on th GX made it susceptible to corrosion on the electrical pins via standing water (dampness) not draining through via a vertical mount on the X0. Any thoughts? I don't mind one way or another to be fair, X-Type is too rich for me to make any change and looks to me at least, to be designed with e-bikes in mind.
They did have eBikes in mind when designing this for sure.
Kind of silly that they need all this tech to address what Shimano CUES did using mechanical means.
Quite a few talked a bout the corrosion here, dielectric grease can help if used early.
Very good!!!!
sram 11 speed 1195 cassette paired with shimano xtr 11 speed derailleur and shifter is the ULTIMATE mtb setup, Sram t-type adds so much cost, weight and complexity for almost nothing positive in return, I guess its good for people with weak thumbs
Or artritis or other issues with their hands.
I still use an 11s 10-42t on my gravel bike w Shimano drivetrain but for MTB that range is not quite enough for a 1x system
Agreed, but I use XT cassette too - very cheap £69. Also the T type mechs are very heavy - about 200g heavier than the m8000 gs if my findings are correct.
I have been using XX1 axis and XX SL t-type since these came out. I have one bike with full shimamo xtr and I love shimano xtr over sram. I am actually going away from sram and going to shimano xtr. Personally the shimano stuff is awesome and I know shimano xtr is mechanical but never the less I can’t seem myself moving away from shiamno.
All my bikes have XT. This Winter i bought one with SRAM GX AXS. Now with some km on it i say: no, compaired to XT the GX AXS is not better than XT. Its OK to ride, but better? No. And worth the price to pay a lot more? Noooo. The Transmission i haven't tried yet, but after that experience with AXS and the costs compaired to XT i dont have any desires to buy SRAM
@@juanhidalgo7043 what is it you prefer about XTR?
I am a fan of weight, replacement cost, and lack of charging a battery on the XT. I haven't put many miles on Transmission, but when I have I havent been completely sold.
If it wasn't for checking out the new stuff all my family would still be on the SHimano 12s drivetrains now, with a few exceptions 😉
have you weighed the XX and GX cage once disassembled? if so, what are the weights?
And have you weighed the GX and XX without the cage ? Is there a difference?
@@hervemasson5976 good points! I did not and don’t have the GX anymore, bummer
My limited tests weighing a GX cage vs a XXSL cage there is a difference in some components. Other components are identical. The inner cage for example is steel VS carbon. Basically half the weight. There is a SRAM parts catalog if you’re curious as to specific parts.
To save some money I went with a GX derailleur, XO cassette, the older style paddle shifter that came with the AXS non Transmission derailleur and a Wolf Tooth conversion chain ring so I could keep my current GX eagle cranks. Personally I like the older style paddle shifter the best. The pod version was not for me. Also I found right away the clutch on the derailleur to be weak. I ride right foot back and my cranks are so beat up from chain slap.
Interestingly some reported that about the GX and not the other ttype derailleurs
I'd suggest anyone who's using, or plan to use, the GX Transmission to apply some electric grease on the contact points to prevent water ingress. There are reports online about the pins corroded due to moisture.
Good point, you find it listed as dielectric grease.
Not compatible with my Scott Ransom. Waiting for Shimano electric drive train....?
Do you mind telling us why electronic?
My GX just had a pogo pin fail after 15 months of PNW riding. Up until that point I liked the setup. Quick temporary fix is putting a tiny piece of solder with some grease on the circular battery terminal to make that pin connect again.
That sucks. Should be a warranty issue no?
@ should be. I’ll find out this week.
@ Please let us know
@@LoveMTB SRAM sending a new DR out now. Full two year warranty on the replacement.
@ that’s great
I have about 750 miles on my GX transmission group set, without any issues.
Yeah they should work just fine
Still all mech 11 sp Shimano XT for me. If I went electric, id probably go Wheeltop due to flexibility.
I hear you...
12s works great if you're after the wider range BTW
Wheeltop yes 11 or 12 or if it goes 13 i was thinking that and got archer components but the motor burned app problems batteries im back mechanical xtr 12 and love it...
What about the rumors on the failing battery contacts due to the horizontal position on the GX?
Is that something to consider?
I saw a video of this also. I'm going for XX and XO for this reason when I go wireless.
These pins do fail. I’ve had them fail on my AXS and both my transmission XXSL and GX derailleurs just the same. For me it seems to be the springs inside the pins failing rather than corrosion. The result is the same. A bricked derailleur. Always buy these components with warranty in mind.
@@NewbGamingNetworks the reason springs fail is due to corrosion. All AXS suffers from this, but GX and newest Transmissions are even more prone due to battery orientation. Red XPLR users are even more doomed considering the insane pricetag.
@@NewbGamingNetworks Yeah I'll stay on mechanical until SRAM pull their fingers out of their ass.
@@drill_fiend1097Yeah, sad days for the Red XPLR buyers. So when are we filing the class action for selling a product with a known defect? 🙄
rocker pod is a must!
Yeah got to look at that asap
Have you measured the wide of de gx and the rival chains? I think t type is narrower than the road types. Maybe necessary for the 13 speed? Thanks.
I didn't know what to think and I don't usually fully believe the marketing pieces so I did a video - ruclips.net/video/S2HxPyqeRgg/видео.html
What works for anyone is depending on the wallet and needs. Like to way you can mix match lower tier with top tier and vice verse
Yeah that's definitely a plus of all these new drivetrains
Good info! I have a question that I’m sure you covered on a previous video BUT is the T-Type derailleur backwards compatible? I have an AXS GX derailleur that needs replaced so I thought maybe I’d just buy the UDH T-Type
As long as your frame is Udh compatible
@ It is. Thank you!
A couple of videos ago I did a video about compatibility simple answer is maybe 🤔
I purchased the XX cassette because my new GX cassette had a very slight warp when spun. It did not affect the performance, but it bothered me... knowing that it was not true. Again, EVER so slight, but REALLY?
The pinned cassettes have wider tolerances vs X-dome. I've seen and experienced that with their previous Eagle cassettes, interesting that they're still ok with that kind of quality
GX rear and X0 cassette here. I find it lot smoother with the X0 cassette.
I also have the new pod lever and much prefer it to the two buttons.
Yeah I hear you. New pod with rocker is like the revised version of the old
You tried the GX cassette and it was rougher than the X0? Otherwise it seems hard to justify double the price (market value) for some 67g savings.
@ tolerances for the pin based cassettes are not the same as with the more expensive ones it’s pretty common to have a gear noisier etc
@ All my stuff is second hand, but unused. A lot get taken off E-bikes. I just keep an eye out on ebay etc. I payed £180 ($219) for brand new transmission X0 cranks recently..... If you look around and are patient you can save huge amounts.
Hello, does the Sram PG-720 cassette work perfectly with the Sram T-TYPE X0 derailleur? Or does this combination have some kind of flaw?
sir, i just have a question about the shimano cues. Isn't the Shimano Cues RD 11 speed limited to 48t to 50t? Is the Deore cassette 11t/51t still comfortable? I saw your page, I hope you can reply, thank you
To lower the cost I mixed GX and X0. GX derailleur, XO cassette, GX chain, X01 Dub old carbon cranks. Imo the best combo in terms of price\weight.
Do you have 52 or 55 chain line, if 55, how? And if it works with 52., cool.
@@paulfraley7990 I had come across a forum where a Sram rep said it will work with 52 BUT is optimized for 55.
That sounds like a good combination for a budget-conscious build.
So you're liking the ttype??
We've used it with 52 from the start
@@paulfraley7990 on SB130 I have 0mm offset chaining, on SB100 - 3mm offset chaining which works just fine.
GX 50t 1 tooth snapped off at loading ramp 3 months lttle use sram replaced with upgraded 👍
Good to know they took care of you
X0 for me unfortunately. GX horizontal battery mount makes it prone to water pooling into contacts.
Never thought of it that way but good point. Highly recommend using a bit of dielectric grease on those contacts then.
I’m wondering if the GX Transmission derailleur can be used with the old AXS shifter? And can the regular GX Eagle non-Transmission components be combined with the GX T-Type derailleur?
Has anyone had any experience with this? ✌️
Yes
and you have a full video about that - ruclips.net/video/EUMIgnXeo_E/видео.html
Nicee, thanks man 🙏
I would say, buy the GX but..... I really dislike the colors of the GX groupset. I know it sounds crazy but I can't help it
I'd go XX or X01 next time. Running mech GX now.
They have to differentiate somehow, price is dramatically lower on GX
Do you have anybody experience with XX/XXSL chainrings live? How many miles? I dont have any exp. with aluminum chainrings. Thank you.
One year so far , not sign of a wear but I wax my chain
I use a dry lube and both the XX and GX chainrings last a little over two chain swaps for me.
@ Thank you. I read somewhere that it lasts much, much less than a metal chainring. Supposedly only about 1000 miles.😭😭😭
@ And, how many km/miles is it?
I personally haven’t seen a difference in aluminum chainring life as compared to mechanical SRAM. ~3000mi for me if I had to ballpark it. Steel chainrings will always last much longer regardless, but they’re awfully heavy.
I'll be passing on battery power until it's mandatory.
I think we’re still good for a while 😊
I love my GX on my regular MTB, absolutely bomb proof.
T-type or...
Do more expensive stay new longer bearings not bushes etc.
44t to 52t, 8t is too much of a jump
I went 46T on my gravel bike from 42, and 32 to 38. It just took a while to get used to. I used alot more of my cassette.
@@zubayrbhyat8077 I much prefer shimano's 6t jump, feels much better
still using the old 10-50t and the 42-50T jump does not feel excessive. My son never complained about the 44-52 either after using Shimano 12s so I don't think it's an issue. And BTW this drivetrain won world championships so we might be nitpicky on the details😉
Stan should have never released the Axs gx. Let the peasants use wires. X0/xx should only be had in Axs only. I love my xx1 on my megatower and tallboy.
Remember we even have a SX S1000 Transmission, have a video about it
Also I found out trying to buy aftermarket 3D printed crank boots that the T Type X0 cranks 165,170,175 are all differently shaped.
of course! 😉
The GX is garbage mine was installed by Trek and the micro adjuster were a failure out of the box! SRAM refused to do anything absolutely the worst customer service in the biking industry. The cassette was torqued to the required 40nm add it came loose and that happened on several others, that have been reported on MTB channel. The system is garbage.
Pretty sure they recommend Loctite for the cassette something that NO LBS will do or know about it. Otherwise it works for many many ppl, have to go to a different shop
All a waste. Eagle is perfectly fine and lighter.
Running it on my Yeti, will never change it.
@ I will never buy it. Lol.
Hey man, no disrespect but this is a very confusing video. I was not needed you already done like 10 videos. I don’t understand the point of this. Why would anyone mix-and-match all these different piece pieces? I’m sorry, but this is ridiculous video
Well, you mix and match because they are all compatible with each other. GX cage assembly for instance. They tend to break so it can be a good replacement for the more expensive options. Also the redesign of the derailleur. So here's why I thought this was useful to the community🙄
@@LoveMTBI appreciate the content. Always great to see others perspectives, especially with how new and fundamentally different Transmission is. Thanks for putting the effort in 🤘
I was told I might have to go with a Deore 1X 11spd. crank instead of a 1X M8000 XT l😭l. The Deore is about $160.00🍁+ $85.00 for the chainring. I was also told I can put an M8000 XT 1X chainring on a M8100 XT crank; is this accurate? The only places I've seen selling 1X M8000 XT crank arms is a bike shop in Quebec (they're also selling the 1X M8000 XT chainring🤙🤙) and Amazon. Bezos wants ridiculous prices; the prices are TOO MARKED UP❗️