I Built a Magnet Powered Propeller Plane That Actually Works!
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2023
- Today we're back in Scrap Mechanic with a magnet powered plane! Recently I made a magnet motor that had some success on the dyno so I decided to see if it is powerful enough to make a working plane!
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#scrapmechanic #kangaming Игры
What else should we build in Scrap Mechanic?
I think building a helicopter using this motor would be pretty cool, or making a higher torque/hp motor
Please build a VTOL Jet with his Engine.
Would it take off easier if you turned this into a VTOL? Just a switch on a controller connected to two bearings, to tilt the whole side wings upwards, engines and all. Maybe with some extra logic to try to keep the engines perpendicular to the ground/gravity/acceleration, for when taking off and landing. Also, please have multiplayer races with this kind of engine, so the other members of the Multiplayer Monday can try their own hand at modifying/improving the engine.
@urmom.
Absolutely not I have a piston-powered helicopter I can’t finish yet because I’m on holiday
Make a new rail gun
put the elevators in the front of the plane. It makes it harder to take off when your pitch up is pushing the back in down. With front end elevators pitching up pulls the nose up off the ground. This is only better at slow speeds where you are struggling to take off and not going fast enough for the weird drag from the front end elevators to mess up your flight. (although I don't think that would matter in SM) The Write brothers had front end elevators on the Kittyhawk if you need a visual for what I'm talking about.
I was thinking the same thing.
Or Front Canards like the Viggen or Eurofighter
Said it much better than I was about too lol
They're called flaps, but right idea. they are used in real planes, and I was just about to suggest it.
Yep was gonna say the same ish thing
13:40 part of the problem is probably your planes length, it cant rotate/torque against that really long tail. Its a really common issue in these games (with a tail dragger), your wings/torque point is far forward and the tail wheel so far back the law of levers is fighting you. I don't think its a friction issue
my thoughts exactly, needs to shorten the length and make sure the elevators are at a much lower angle than the front wings for a smoother and natural takeoff.
Giving the plane tricycle gear might solve the problem.
The tail is short, the fuselage is long.
One thing you might want to think about tuning is the angle the blades on the prop are at. At higher plane speeds, a higher angle will do better, but at low its the opposite. Good thing to think about when trying to optimize a plane.
For this is there a way to automate the angle change or would you need to use buttons to change the angle? (just curious)
@@gamercat1186 I would imagine that if you used the modpack you could? Not sure about vanilla scrap mechanic though, probably not.
Build Idea : A single prop helicopter using the back propeller to stop the torqe from the main propeller. The mods you can use are modpack, wings mod or scriptable computers
And whith magnet engine
I've built that kind of helicopter and it works, until I want to use swash plate, to move in a direction, it starts to frick out and wobble side to side
I'd like to see the helicopter where it has the 2 props that cross the same path. You'd have one 25degree offset
Please no I haven’t been able to finish mine yet 😨
@@tigrote100 you can do that part with logic, I have a helicopter that is controlled by changing the blade tilt during the rotation (I think I used a compass that fed into some sin blocks and used that signal to add a tilt on top of the base tilt, it's been a while so I'm not exactly sure). I did use counterrotating props to deal with the torque, but more realistic heli should be possible too.
The logic blocks most likely have a small delay which is why you needed the offset on the dyno to reach higher RPM. However, the motors spin slower with the props attached, so you need to adjust the encoder offset to match the lower RPM. Someone commented on your previous dyno video that it can measure torque at a specific RPM if you adjust the settings, perhaps that is what you need to use to tune the encoder.
Or test it on the dyno *with* the blades attached? That way you could just measure the speed (rpm) at "idle" (where it only works against its prop blades), and optimize the encoder plate angle for that.
If you want to test the magnet engine under load, you should put the whole engine from the plane with the prop and connect it to the dyno and check the RPM.
To get better performance out of this plane I first suggest that you adjust the control layout so when you press "w" and "s" it also controls your ailerons so they act as elevators too. this is called an "elevon" as it combines the features of ailerons and elevators; This will help get the front of your plane off the ground. Additionally I would suggest adding flaps to you wings to lower the stall speed during takeoff. Still, If you want to generate more lift by adding more wings, it is better to stack them on top of each other in a biplane configuration instead of by extending them further out and back. another thing I noticed is your center of lift is slightly behind your center of mass which is causing you to have to fight the ground on takeoff. you might want to add some weight to the rear of the plane to balance that out, especially because you are using a taildragger design. hope this helps! ;)
For a plane to take off from the runway it has to have enough speed and pitch to take off, the problem I see in your plane is that the tail doesn't have room to move down so that the plane pitched up and took off, The flaps could help you to have more lift at lower speed but I don't know how it interacts with the game system
Potentially adding in some suspension on the rear wheel could help?
I'd shorten the tail, let's the nose sit higher. Typical take off procedure in a tail dragger has you bring you tail wheel off of the ground to assume a level attitude prior to rotation speed where one can then rotate normally.@@projectdren806
there is still mesh colition, so the edges of meshes can collide with each other, so its better to have a flat mesh for the timing plate instead of using parts, but the difference is only noticeable if the engine is moving wrong.
Hey one of the dyno creators here, I think your motor is running quite rough. I think the reason the average value is showing quite high numbers is because the moving average table size is not big enough to ignore large spikes in rpm, you can mitigate this by increasing the value averaging number so you get more of a stable output.
Also about the encoder wheel position, when you are adjusting the bearing, the main performance increasing factor is making the sensors fire earlier to account for the delay between the sensors and the magnets. When the motor is spinning fast enough, the point at which the magnets will activate slowly changes until the magnets fire way later in the cycle than optimal and you hit a speed cap (since the time delay will result in a larger distance when spinning faster). When you change the encoder position, you make the sensors see the painted section earlier, therefore the magnets will update earlier, which then returns the point at which the magnets fire to a more optimal position for that speed, which will then allow you to go faster. However, when you are under load, your motor will run slower than you originally tuned for so the encoder wheel position wont be optimal, and instead your magnets will fire much earlier than optimal, which decreases torque substantially. Also just be careful about setting your encoder wheel setting before your motor is running, as the motor could reverse or start rough.
Also just a side note, definitely give the L shape painted section a shot when you test next, it may not seem right, but i'm confident it will give you much smoother results after some tuning.
Btw not trying to say you have done a bad job or anything! Just a few pointers to hopefully get the motors running even better, and the best part is, is that the same thing translates over to piston engine stuff, but you have done very good so far to get here, and i'm eager to see what you have planned next.
you could raise the front of the plane by making the landing gears longer, and that might help it take off.
Probably a good solution yes, the actual angle of attack doesn't induce enough lift for take off. The wheel configuration doesn't allow the plane to tilt when using the elevator on the ground, so you need another way to increase the angle of attack (higher front gear or canards)
Also be careful those motors are effectively synchronous motors so you do have to change the timing with load, you can advance the timing after it starts moving.
A few things I learnt building planes that fly slow is that wider propellers generate significantly more power so extending them by 1 or two blocks could massively boost acceleration and having your vertical control surface at the front can help with takeoff, also for some reason In sm it's extremely hard to build a plane that flies with a twr of less than 1. Also the use of flaps and/or variable position wings could help generate an increase in lift which can then be put back to increase stability. Wider wings also increase drag and weight as well as making you yaw more while trying to roll so maybe less wings/wing built with more parts rather than the the standard aerofoil parts (or whatever they're called). I hope this helps!
I recreated a similar design with thrusters and a big issue I had with taking off wasnt speed but it was angle, I think you may have a similar issue with this plane here, even taking off the plant doesn't pull up because of its tail sitter configuration meaning that it relies on speed which the plant doesn't have enough off, when you drive of a hill it allows for a change in angle which might mean that ground friction isn't the problem in this creation, you could solve this with a tricycle landing gear system but you would have to re-engineer most of the plane but it would allow you to change pitch without taking off.
Timing plate rotation is easier for reverse. Try hooking the controllers up to the seat with a range of diff angles so you can change the timing plate while driving with W/S.
I was watching a ksp tutorial the other day and it said if you have your wheels too far behind your centre of mass (or generally if your plane can't pitch up enough on the ground,) it may not take off. I had this problem on a jet and it worked after.
For that design you might consider a shorter tail or taller front landing gear.
I had that problem in ksp for a while too, planes wouldn't be able to take off from the runway.
Turns out the solution was to make sure your back gear is just behind your CoM, this way the lift generated by the plane allows the back wheels to basically be used as a pivot point. Right now the lift generated up front essentially just forces the back gear into the ground instead of pivoting the plane around it.
Looking at the plane, your takeoff issue is also that you need an aggressive angle of attack to take off. That is, you're not generating enough lift on the entire plane for a shallow AOA to kick the plane off the ground. As was said by socks2423, putting the elevators in front would help. Creating distance between the wheels and the plane itself likely would also help so it can more aggressively pitch up would likely also work. It doesn't look like a friction issue at all, just an AOA issue. You might even be able to shorten the tail a little for a similar effect, it just needs the ability to actually pitch up enough to get into the air.
as an aviation enthusiast i can give u some tips like adding flaps, afterburners (there are planes that use afterburners), increasing the propeller pitch (or making an adjustble one for adjustable speed), make it from a double engine to a quadruple like some very cool ww2 bombers
I've something about airplane not taking off. Try to balance the wheels position/base just a little behind actual center of mass. That way it will allow the plane to rotate (pitch) itself around the center of mass easily and make sure that the back of a plane not touching the ground. Also, make sure that center of lift is also slightly in front of center of mass, it will make sure that plane push itself up while gaining speed (pitch up).
Example, put one steering wheel dead forward and a base wheels slightly forward from the middle of the plain leaving the back of a plain not touching the ground.
Also, one of the reasons why plain doesn't lift is because it have a long anchor point not allowing the tail to go down while trying to pitch. That's why you should also have in my opinion an control surfaces for pitch on forward wings as well but opposite.
Those things I've mention works well in real life, i don't know is it gonna work in game but i hope you can check it in game and I'm sure like 90 percent it will work.
Just put the steering wheel dead forward, and base wheels on the center of the mass leaving the tail of a plain free in the air and allow it to pitch while on ground.
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try to build the blades on a bearings and control them with controller by pressing like a button/switch and angling them acordingly. that way you will have full speed spin and no push on 0 degree, slower speeds on lower angles until you reach 45 degree of a prop position, then you can also make plain go reverse by rotating the props by 180 degree. :D
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Hope to see more magnet motors in the future and some tweaks as well.
Great stuff kAN keep the content and channel great as always
It looks like you’re effectively limited by the max rpm of the motor and the max airspeed the props can produce at that rpm. It might be worth increasing the angle of attack of the props and tuning the engine timing to see if it increases the max airspeed.
I made a piston engine today with the decoder wheel in contact with the timing sensors and there was a noticeable amount friction between them. It might be cool to do a video going more in depth in measuring the differences between methods.
This game seems really cool. I would suggest maybe getting the props spinning at full speed then start the ground movement. That way the only load is the props not the wings at the start. Could give shorter takeoff runway length.
Biplane, flaps, done. Awesome build!
You should try varying the encoder angle based on the RPM of the magnet engine it seems like changing the angle of the encoder changes where the peak torque curve is and also as the plane gains speed the load on the propellers actually decreases at the same RPM.
Make a chinook please. Also an idea to try and make the motor work under different loads is to use an x-o meter to measure rotational speed and then using that with a multiplier to adjust the angle of the encoder to compensate the delay. It should help as the delay in angle will be proportional to angular velocity but it may also be worth adding a constant angle addition to fine tune it.
Put the rear landing gear just behind the center of mass, that should help take off, also, try and build a single engine (maybe a biplane?)
Go a 2nd wing over the main wing, making a Bi-plane. The issue might not be speed, but lift generation. When you did get up, I got Wright Flyer vibes.
With the 2nd main wing you can add it using vertical stabilisers to help with the skidding.
Another mention of the split piece encoder wheel. Bearing>Plus sign blocks>bearing>plus sign blocks. Attach the bearings to controller, and you can control some of the duration of the timing encoder. You can make the two encoder wheels 0-45* to control the duration. After 45*, you just paint the next block, and back to 0*.
For take off the angle of attack is too shallow on the front wings to generate lift so would some of the small wings you used as vertical fins be useful to use as flaps to generate lift at the front or just use bearings to fine tune the angle of attack of the front wings ?
19:40 It's not a ground friction, it's low rpm & high torque creates fixed low speed and with that speed you need more initial pitch that your setup can provide, and tail is resisting to pitch up to gain altitude while you're on the flat ground
when you said about the friction of the ailerons causing a yaw, thats a problem in real life as well so you just have to counteract it with some opposite rudder
Hi i don't play scrap mechanic so my suggestion might be dumb but can you use logic bloc to make the timing bearing rotate when you press a key and keep the angle it's at (similar to what you did with w/s for the tail) so that you can have a perfect timing for the load. An other idea is testing your engine by connecting the dyno to the propeller insted of the engine ?
You could hinge the motors and build a V.T.O.L. (vertical take off and landing). Might have to set the motors back in the body a few blocks.
This looks like the kind of aircraft that might benefit from also having push props. Like have 4 motors; 2 pull, 2 push. Beyond that, I could only suggest get rid of the front wheels and put low friction skids on suspension instead.
Maybe no friction from parts on the same creation, but definitely still interact. Those wedges can still, and probably will catch on the sensors in that configuration. To my understanding, the way the blocks work is that if they are attached, they are calculated as a single part, not a lot of them, whereas parts still each get calculated individually. Thats why if you have a line of wedge blocks, other parts can still catch on the edges of any wedge block, where as they wouldn't for a long wedge or a line of blocks. I might not be 100% accurate, but thats how it seems to work at least on the surface.
Had the same problem With my High rev piston engine (600rpm) when I gave it load compared to the dyno. So my solution was to du the dyno test with the neutral load that the engine is going to have. For example. Including the propeller in the dyno test.
Your vids are amazing, you make it look so eaay to build the magnet and piston engines i have tried but im not in to the logic stuff in scrap and im not able to make those things but i would love to if i would understand the logic and so on in scrap
I think that there needs to be a way to measure the speed of the motor, as you could then code it to lower the angle of the center core when the motor is moving slowly to give it more power for less speed.
(I say lower because the motor would then be restricted to only go to a certain angle and not ruin it's own performance by going above its optimal angle)
You could even just use buttons to change a number on a counter and then have that decide what angle the center core is set to. (this method would be very similar to a manual transmission)
Also please make the wings in the front pitch so they give more usable lift. For it seems that the wings don't produce a lot of lift but do slow/redirect movement coming from the top and bottom into movement heading in a different direction.
(sorry if this makes no sense to you, I tried to keep it simple)
You should try making a magnetic stroke engine. Just like the gas one the fuel combustion will be the repelling of the magnets. Great video 👌👌👌
It might be friction, but I think the main issue with taking off is angle of attack, the tail is already as low as it can get when you stand still. Maybe raise the tail a bit (or lower the front gear) so that the whole plane angles up more when you rest on the tailwheel. The tail also probably a bit too long.
Also I think one nose wheel and two side wheels are simpler for take off and landing than the "taildragger" setup you have because the tail gear limits the movement of the tail.
if the magnets are coded in a way that reflects reality, then the pull strength is likely inversely squared proportional to distance, so making a bigger wheel for the rotor, and getting a closer approximation to a circle, may allow you to cram in more magnets closer together (smaller rotor gap)
Awesome. Could you make a VTOL version? It seems taking off is the hardest part yet it can fly straight up, it would be so cool. :)
I don't know if this is helpful in scrap mechanic, but one thing WW1 pilots would do (and slower planes today) is to pitch forward on the ground to get the rear wheel in the air. This allows for a little more pitch up clearance when gently taking off. I saw a lot of rear wheel striking. But again Idk if this works in SM. It may help with the wheel friction
To use the elevators in the rear to take off, they need a wheel to pivot the front of the plane up. Otherwise, it just pushes the tail into the ground. I also wanted to mention that leverage applies to both props and the rotor/stator interaction. I mention this because it looks like the motors stay in speed saturation, losing potential work. It would be interesting to see what kind of load causes the motors to slip. Longer blades should force the motors to work a bit harder to produce more forward momentum. Longer blades displace far more air, although Scrap Mechanic may not be able to model that.
Main thing with the prop is you have to think about the forces at the root of the prop vs the tip plus the speed. The ends don’t like to be supersonic.
These engine builds are awesome
right befor you managed to take off i tought to myself you need to get the front higher or the back lower to get it to take off but speed looks very good ^^
I know nothing about planes, but I think you should try using the pitch wing things on the front. The tail ones are just pushing into the ground, but if you had a couple in front, and make them so that they rotate opposite to the tail wings, it SHOULD work better. IDK though, up to you to try it.
Also I like watching these engineering vids so much!! ❤
I think the magnet motors need some kind of RPM based timing advance like a real combustion engine that compensates for timing error propagation as things move faster.
I commented the same thing on a previous video, but:
The way timing wheels work is actually quite simple. Let's say our (piston) engine is stationary, when should the piston fire? Obviously it should fire for half a rotation, starting when it's at its shortest and ending when its longest.
This causes the engine to spin, so let's consider what happens when it spins? The next piston rotates and activates. When does this new piston activate? Not when the sensor detects it, because scrap mechanic has tick delay. If you have your sensors hooked up straight to the piston this delay is 1 tick or 0.025 seconds. Let's consider your terrible first engine which did sth like 300 RPM. This engine rotates 300*360/60/40=45 degrees in the time it takes the signal from the sensor to reach the piston! This means that at 300 RPM each piston is working against the engine for 25% of the time. This an engine running at 300 RPM needs a timing wheel offset of 45 degrees to have optimal power at that speed.
But your terrible 4 cylinder won't run into a certain issue high RPM ones do. Let's do the same for a 1200 RPM engine. This engine needs a timing wheel offset of 180 degrees! You can imagine that starting the engine in that configuration does not work, it would spin in reverse. You can however still get engines up to this speed as you've seen with the magnet motor. For the magnet motor this isn't a huge issue because the poles of the magnets determine the direction. Piston engines can get up to this speed by slowly advancing the timing wheel to 180+ degrees. At these speeds you have to ensure the engine does not stall, otherwise it will reverse, similar to how starting in this state would start reversed.
In vanilla scrap there really is no way around this, but with the modpack you can measure the RPM and adjust the timing wheel accordingly. I'd love to see how the power on the magnet motor improves with such a system.
P.S. My best builds plane had a giant front landing gear for a reason, you need to start with your wings on an angle, because the wings themselves do not actually generate lift, they only generate extra drag in their perpendicular directions.
While I agree for a piston engine the cycle needs to be half on half off what about a magnet engine? Ideally you want half on half off as well but you also don't want it on when the magnet is passed the repelling point or else it would start to pull backwards... Might have to do some testing on this.
@@kANGaming For a magnet motor the time each magnet is on depends on how many "coils" you have (north-south sets). Your engine doesn't really resemble any real life magnet Motors, given how your shell is a uni-pole, but I'd say the rule of sets still applies, so about 1/4th on 3/4ths off. I saw some1 suggest making a variable timing plate using 2 plates (cover the timing plate with another one). Then the controller determines how big the visible section is.
I think that your magnet engine could be smaller if you swap around the jobs of the shell and core/axel. This would get you closer to the operation of a real magnet motor. Instead of a big ring you now have a 3x3x2 core of north and south poles while only needing a few magnets on the side to push and pull them. At that point it'd basically be configured like a piston engine.
It would also be neat to see how a stepper motor-like design would function in scrap.
On a final note, even piston engines run into the issue of pistons working against the rotation. This is the main limiting factor of engine speeds. The theoretical maximum for a 2 cylinder engine is 1200RPM. At this speed each sensor is only active for 1 tick in an alternating manner. This limit is the same on a 2 cylinder engine (if they fire on opposite strokes). For each subsequent cylinder you add the theoretical limit will only go down more: 800RPM for 3, 600RPM for 4, etc... It's a simple calculation based on the fact that each sensor will have to be on for half the rotation and off the other half but also need to fire in a sequence.
The reason you'll see engines go above these speeds is because of momentum. Physics is actually calculated faster than logic, so it will be able to keep rotating a bit while the piston (or magnet) works against it. If you would think about how a 3 cylinder engine would run at 800RPM you'd see that there is no tick configuration in which each piston fires for half the rotation (because the cycle contains 3 ticks at that speed). This configuration still works for the same reason an engine can go slightly over the theoretical maximum: momentum and skipping timings.
Either way, after this big rant I'd like you to mainly take away this:
High RPM is janky due to Single-Tick timings. You'd really need to think through your engine design at these kinds of speeds. It's why boxers are preferred for improving power over adding more cylinders. Scrap mechanic has no need for compressing fuel and pistons pull on the back stroke anyways, each piston is basically the equivalent of 4 real life cylinders.
P.s. appreciate me typing this on a phone plz... It's a pain xD
P.p.s. Try to avoid generating collision particles, it drastically reduces engine power to the point where some of my engines lose 20%RPM from it.
Try to tune the magnet motor controllers after putting a load on it and run it in a condition it will be used
EXAMPLE: The magnet motor is attached to the wheel, which will drive the car forward. Somehow attach the dyno to the car and the wheel to see rpm and torque. If the vehicle is designed to be underwater, test it underwater - - -> Ground/Underwater vehicles, powered wheel propulsion
EXAMPLE 2: The magnet motor is attached to a propeller, the propeller is attached to the dyno (if propeller is underwater, test it underwater). See rpm only because the torque doesn't matter. (RPM = max. load) - - -> Air/Water/Underwater vehicles, propeller propulsion
NOTE: Can you create a magnet motor VTOL similar to the Trailmakers one?
Add more magnetic blocks to the middle of the engine. In stead, two sets of two have 4 sets of two it might help increase speed and have more surface area on the motor, to which the reaction goes faster
I suggest putting flaps on the wings to make it take off better.
It's an impedance matching problem. Your motors are more limited by speed than torque, so giving the propeller a more aggressive pitch will make your plane faster.
An electric motor delivers maximum power at about half its free-moving speed, and your motors' torque curve matches that of an electric motor quite well according to the dyno (negative-gradient linear) so you'd get the maximum power delivered at around 650 RPM. Your propeller should, ideally, be slowing your motors down to that speed when the plane isn't moving, and they'll speed up as your plane accelerates and the load on the propellers decreases.
you no longer have to use tick buttons to set counters, if you hit U it opens a gui that you can just write the value in
This reminds me. Time ago, before the aleroned wings, in trail makers I used to make planes with the whole wing rotating and the jets on the wings. So propulsion was in the direction of the wings, always.
I think this plane could use that.
I've made a working magnet plane, and it flies great! I did use the included props from the wing mod though. I tried it with diy props and it flew alright, but not great.
need to add more pitch control and raise the angle of the front of the plane so your front wings are much higher off the ground. might want some take off assist flaps to help with lift. also moving some of your weight to the rear a little should help. your front heavy so its harder to take off.
You should make it a biplane so you can stack the wings and generate more lift that way. You could also give the wheels some power to negate that drag effect from them.
part of the reason why you couldn't take off from the ground is because of how far away the tail is from the main wings. all the elevators are doing is pushing the tail into the ground, and not tilting the nose up to get lift.
Also canards probably would help you with taking off because they will provide upward lift to the nose on takeoff instead of pushing the tail down
in physics games, putting canards on planes makes them lift 100% better, i found this in ksp, trailmakers even besieged and scrap mechanic, it always seems to be the case i think the downward force of the tailplanes is not calculated properly or the microscopic immediate increase in vehicle angle makes the regular wings displacement dramatically greater either way they never seem to take off as efficiently as a canard, just try it you might be surprised.
id be curious to see if adding the drag reducer block on this motor to see if that increases the speed or something, because of scrap mechanics general molasses feeling drag properties
I'd agree with the dyno results vs reality issue, especially with magnet motors. I have a motor that can spin up to 13,000 rpm or something stupid, but under literally any load it would never. So I get incredibly high horsepower readings, but I don't get that in reality because there's no way the motor will ever get to spin that fast. I can't put load on it while testing because that'll give a lower hp rating than reality, and I can't just start the dyno at a lower RPM because the stupid thing is programmed to wait for the motor to "redline" before testing.
So I get an engine with a 5-digit horsepower reading that struggles to start off the line. Fantastic.
You should hook your explosive engine to the dyno and see if you can improve it
I learned about the creation not having collision with itself when I tried to create a small car that is attached to the creation with an arm. The tires would not move the car at all until I detached it.
There is collision but no friction. U can not build like a disc break but u can stop something if it hits against another part.
You can press 'U' while looking at a counter to open a GUI to set the number for it, instead of fiddling with paint and buttons.
To do a load test while on the dyno use a few plane wings/props on the power shaft, thus adding a load, could also use a weight the large the weight the larger the load
Keep in mind the dyno would also give you stats of how the motor behaves while under that specific type of load,
6:52 leave it to kan to try to paint a bearing whenever it breaks
The flat wings may be fighting you with your length, maybe try adding some sort of flaps system on the front to add some up lift rather than just a flat glide plane for takeoff.
I wonder if going with the lightest block like bubble block would help. Maybe a 4 engine plane would help as well. It's almost like the horsepower and torque are there, but the weight-to-lift ratio is too much. I think lightening it as much as possible would benefit the plane
A bigger tail and shorter fuselage would help. Or maybe make a mechanism to rotate the main wing assembly up to take off vertically then rotate level for forward flight
I made fighter plane with this engine already and it's super cool
I feel like seeing kAN figure out how engine torque and hp works is very interesting, and I'm pretty sure I could provide information about the subject but I'd rather see him make a video on it and see how he does it :)
@kangaming your vertical stabilizer on the tail is way to small, making it at least twice the size will help a lot with involuntary yaw, which will also help with overall speed
Try using frictionless blocks as skii's and possibly a short form gear ratio to spin the blades faster
Maybe move from a tail dragger landing gear to a trike. If the tail is able to move down, you'll have a better angle of attack on take off.
I'd just like to point out that your offset when you made the two motors (the -45 and +45) was exactly opposite of what it should've been. The offsets were correct, you just had them on the wrong motors. That's why when you put both to 0 it was perfectly fine.
What I'm trying to say is like what you saw from1:00 to 1:35. You have it spinning one way, but the offset is inversed from what it should be.
yeah i noticed that too@@bobparker1671
Try to change the angle in the controller as the dyno puts more load on the motor. See if it will power through longer.
WWII planes used to take off from runways with one of their wheels retracted (all be it for different reasons) and with the tail up. What if you If you create the plane a little taller and use pistons to slowly lift the wheels off of the ground so that the friction will be less on the ground.
Here's a question other then the weight of the Prop Blades, do the props actually put any load on the motors whatsoever?
Its something i call into question because I wonder how Scrap Mechanic simulates it and if it doesnt have Drag and or air resistance it would explain the behavior
Perhaps turn it into a vtol? It's a good solution to the take off problem since it clearly has the power to go straight up
does the closet prop on the engine causeing a friction or bug maybe when its trying to take off?
nice plane bro
From previous video observation, magnets don't act like pistons. It's looks like they actually create magnetic field. Try add another 4 magnets to the rotor to have complete 180* of S and 180* of N .
Assuming the magnets are acting similarly to brushless motors... Certain timing on the motor "coils" will cause the motors to have either more torque or speed depending on the timing of the coils which is changed by the degree on the controller. I have no clue how scrap mechanic works and or calculates this. I fly multi-rotors (Quadcopters) and during setup of the first performance one i had to change the motor timing in the actual Motor Driver (ESC). Im assuming that the timing would work similarly to the game as IRL but that depends on the physics of the game. As for how i found the timing on my motors, : Trial and error. what worked best for me for what i was looking for. Torque or RPM.
Not sure if it's already been said, but you should have buttons to change the encoder rotation while flying to see if it will give more thrust
Hey, I made a similar post at around the same time. Glad I am not the only person to think of this sort of solution.
Another way to do the 30 degree tilt is by simply using a controller. You can hook a seat to a controller set to 30 and w and s will work the same way.
I'd love to see a survival playthrough with mods. It'd be so cool to fly over the map with a plane in survival.
Nice vid
So part of your issue with this plane is you need to put flaps up front to help generate the lift you need. So instead of having your tail trying to push your plane into the air you have your front wings pulling upwards into the air instead. It will give much better flight stability but you can then reserve your entire tail for rolls and sideways turning.
I havent tried this with a magnet motor. But, it was fun trying to make planes, quadcopters and helicopters with piston engines.
With it being so close to take off would replacing all the wood with bubble blocks make enough of a weight difference?
move the back wheels forward! Your elevators are just pushing them into the ground, not pivoting the front up!
At this point i could believe the next survival season when the update drops will have magnets in it xD
You should try and make a hybrid system in scrap mech , i dont know how it will work but it would be cool to see it in action👍
You need some flaps on the front to lift.
Having only the back ones just pushes the rear wheel into the ground, increasing friction, and creates no lift due to.
Flaps on the front will try to push the plane into the air
JUST ONE TINY WING PIECE MORE ON THE PROPELLER AND IT WOULD'VE BEEN FLYING GREAT AAAAAAAAAAAAH
What if you use frictionless blocks as the landing gear, then use a different block as a break(attached to piston)