Jointer vs Planer: What Does Each One Do?
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
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Planer: amzn.to/2EFEqy4
Jointer: amzn.to/2sEbMb0
Many people ask about the difference between a jointer and a planer, so here we talk about each one, and demonstrate the role that each one plays in milling lumber perfectly square (S4S).
Hi Paul. After running the first flat face on the jointer, you use that flat face against the fence to pass the one edge over the jointer. Why can't you just flip the board and just joint the other edge? This way you have one flat face and two flat edges that are square to the flat face... Before heading to the planer . Right? Or am I missing something?
Hi Trecca, great question! Check out my recent video on making square lumber where I demonstrate the answer to that very question.
Ahhh... Now I see! Thanks.
I think both edges will not be perfectly parallel that way.
You are correct!
@@ToolMetrix why not just explain why? Or at least link to your explanation?
Brilliant. Now tell us how to explain to wife we need 2 more tools and not just 1.
That is the entire purpose of this video, my friend. Just play it for her and hopefully she'll understand! :)
I'll try on my husband too 😃
I'm here for you too, Amanda! :)
@@ToolMetrix is the planer also called a thicknesser ? Somebody bought a machine which I would say is a jointer but he mentioned in his review that "bought this planer and a jointer separately" www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-series-ct1502-150mm-surface-planer-104349
@@moldprintsrl I know in some countries outside the U.S, Australia for example, that it is called a thicknesser. In the U.S it is more commonly known as a planer or thickness planer.
I am a novice working with wood and didn't want to buy equipment I didn't need. This is the first video I've seen where someone talked to me about the difference between a jointer and a planer in terms I could understand. You brought it down to my level which means you're a gifted teacher. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the great feedback, James. Hope you'll subscribe and come back for more. :)
What he said!
This is one of those videos that deserves 100 thumbs up .....Well explained , simple, proactive and straight to the point ...! You've helped me decide on buying both products ..! Thanks a bunch 👍🏾.
Thanks for the feedback Pedro! 🙏
@pedro qissanga which did u choose?
Finally, someone who took the time to explain the operation of both tools and how they work together and compliment each other. Thank you Sir for doing this. It cleared up several questions I had. Now I need to go buy a jointer for my recently purchased planer.
Thanks for watching and for your feedback, Scott.
By far the best explanation of the purposes of these two machines I've found online. Thanks!
I was going to make a similar comment but this guy beat me to it!
Thank you 🙏!!!
Yes! Thank you. I finally have a much better appreciation for these two tools. Now to the Grizzly Tent Sale!
Agreed. This is perfectly explained. Thanks very much!
Awesome video.
I know very little on wood working tools. And this video made it very easy for me to understand what tools to use to get S4S. See i even sound like a Pro now. 😎
Even though I don't intend buying either, watching such a great teacher is always enlightning. You dumb it down without being patronising and have such a concise and to the point way of explaining it, that it's really enjoyable and learningful to watch, thank you!
Thanks Seb 🙏
Voice- A+, Teaching Skills- A+. Excellent explanation and demonstration. Thank you for sharing... greatly appreciated
Wow, thank you so much!!!
This is probably the best explanation of a jointer and planer that I've ever seen. I know this confuses a lot of beginner woodworkers so I'm going to send people to this video when they ask me these questions. Great job.
Thank you! I really appreciate the kind words. Cheers, Paul
This was one of the most informative videos I've seen on the subject. Nice job
Thank you. That made my day. Cheers, Paul
I'll second that, thanks!
Thanks a bunch for the kind words! Hope you'll subscribe. :)
Thanks, this made perfect sense!
This is the first video that clearly explains the difference between the two machines. Although this video is short, you have given a lot of important technical detail that I did not know. You answered a lot of questions I had. From Québec City
Thanks, Stephane. I appreciate the feedback and I'm glad that you found the video helpful. Cheers, Paul
I cant believe it took so long to find a video that perfectly explained this. Cheers!
Thanks, Joe. I really appreciate the feedback. I looked around and felt the same thing. Hope you'll subscribe to the channel and come back for more, sir. Cheers, Paul
In the UK, a jointer is called a planer... and a planer is called a thicknesser. Just bear that in mind!
You’d think we could get on the same page on things like this. I can understand when you guys refer to soccer as football, football as rugby, fries as chips, garbage as rubbish, etc. but woodworking should be universal. 😂 Totally kidding of course. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for the simple and easy to understand explanation. What if I don't have a table saw? Will my circular saw help me with the 4th side assuming I'm using a straight edge to rest the saw against?
Hi John, Thanks for your feedback. Yes, you could do this with a circular saw as long as you measure from the opposite edge to make the cut.
Great video. Thank You. Question: what approach do you take on jointer if board is wider than the width of cutter?
One way to do it would be to use a hand plane to flatten one face. Then put that face down and plane. Then flip over and run through again to clean up your hand plane marks.
Quick question. I have both of these exact machines and use them often but always had a question. If you are say using 3/4” birch plywood for a project and are going by the measurements for all of the cuts and thicknesses, doesn’t planing and jointing technically change the dimensions of the lumber in width as you plane? Meaning now your 3/4” plywood specs are no longer 3/4”. How does that work when building a project?
Hi Roy, yes, it does change the dimensions. You should plan for your final dimensions and work toward that with jointing and planing in mind. You can set your final thickness on your planer. For edge jointing, make your final pass on the table saw to ensure parallelism and a specific final dimension if those things are important.
Concise and to the point. The S4S breakdown was awesome. Keep up the great videos.
Thank you 🙏!!’
This was one of the best videos explaining the process I’ve ever seen. Thank you.
Thanks 🙏
Good Lord , I found it !!!! Clear , calm , to the point explanation n demonstration of my next two tools to complete my DYI humble newbie shop . LOL complete enough !!! I see no end to this challenge .
To happy to proof my comment . DIY is more like it .
Thanks for sharing your feedback with me, and for the kind words. Cheers, Paul
I am JUST setting up and I could NOT see what the difference was. Do I need both or will one suffice. And - what is the difference, again? Well. thanks to this video - I know now. Great video and great information! Thank you very much.
Thanks Rick!
No one has ever mentioned the third step in all the videos I’ve watched. Great job, thanks!
Thanks Steve! Cheers, Paul
Great, clear explanation and demo. I have a small "jointer/planer" acquired years ago. Now I know why it won't be adequate to construct a good dining room table top. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback, Bob. Cheers, Paul
I am planning to start my woodwork shop and as newbie this one of the most valuable info for me thanks to you sir..
Thanks, Big Dog! I'm planning to do more videos on introductory woodworking topics, so hopefully you'll sub and come back. Cheers, Paul
FINALLY!!!! A video that perfectly and clearly explains the difference! The voice audio was a little quiet, but other than that, great video!
Thanks Joe. I appreciate the feedback.
Finally an easy to understand explanation on what the difference is and even more important, why you would want both. Thanks!
Thanks Bjorn! 🙏
the best explanation ive seen so far...knowing what words to use to explain this is important and you knew exactly what to say.great job!
Thanks for the feedback, LaTroy!
Great video, this explains everything in detail. Best video of a jointer/planer working together I have seen
Thanks Kyle! Hope you’ll subscribe, sir. Cheers, Paul
Why do you get the final edge by running through the table saw? Couldn’t you get that edge square to the original flat face by running it through the jointer (with the board flipped 180 degrees along its long dimension and the original flat face still against the fence) ?
Hi Mike, thanks for chiming in with this question. It is a common one, and I should have addressed it more clearly in the video. You could square up the opposite edge on the jointer, but it would not be parallel with the first face that you jointed. Think about it in this context. If you started out with a board that was tapered, one inch wider on one end than the other. You start out by face jointing one face; now that face is flat. Then you flip it over and plane the surface on the opposite side. That faces are now flat and parallel. Good so far, but you still have a non-parallel edges. If you then use the jointer to edge joint both edges, they will be square to the faces, but the edges will not be parallel to each other. Their will still be a taper of approximately 1"; maybe a bit more, maybe a bit less, but it will definitely still be tapered. If you then put one edge against the table saw fence and rip the board, both edges will be parallel. Then you might run the freshly cut edge through the jointer one time just to clean up any saw marks. That last pass on the jointer will make the edges not perfectly parallel once again, but they will be close enough for nearly any woodworking project. Hope that clears it up for you, Mike. Cheers, Paul
Fine presentation. This video gives a clear explanation of the functions and limitations of these two machines.
In the intro, you asked, "Do you need both machines?" Ultimately, as you demonstrate, the answer is yes. But those who cannot afford to buy both jointer and thickness planer at once, often ask the question, "Which machine should I buy first?" The traditional answer is the jointer. However, I think that for the beginning/DIY woodworker who likely already owns a circular saw and hand router, the thickness planer may be a more practical next purchase. Perhaps it would be a valuable follow-up if you would mention (or shoot additional video) showing how it is possible to get by *without* a jointer. I'm sure your clear video style would make these options very understandable.
A *DIY planing sled* can be used in place of a jointer to face plane boards using just the thickness planer. A *circular saw and straight-edge* (or track saw) can straighten edges, although the straightened edges are not planed. A *router table and offset fence* can joint edges as wide as the height of the router bit, leaving them planed just like a jointer. While not normally as convenient as using a jointer, these alternate methods can enable one to get the work done when a jointer is not affordable, or when the size (width) of the available jointer is not large enough for the work at hand.
Thanks for this info. Cheers, Paul
Just starting out in woodworking. Thank you for the through yet easy to understand explanation between the two
! Best of luck with your new hobby. Hope you find as much joy in it as I do. Cheers
Great video. You make clear the separate roles for the jointer and planer. You're a good communicator. It's appreciated. Thanks!
Thank you for the feedback! Hope you'll subscribe. :)
I sure did. Looking forward to going through your videos and following along in the future.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for that concise and easy to follow explanation. Thanks for demonstrating each step to get to the final board to S4. Super helpful.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Paul
Very well done. Important topic for amateurs. Articulate delivery with good illustrations. Thanks.
Thank you, Edward. Cheers, Paul
Great vid and tools, I guess these are for when working with solid woods, right? As a beginner one can use plywood to avoid the extra investment, and add these later on?
Yep. Great question. No need for these tools if you only use plywood.
Thanks for the video. I've done a lot of framing carpentry. Now that I'm retired I'm trying to set up a woodshop in my basement. This video was very helpful.
Thanks for the feedback, Bob. Best of luck getting your shop set up. That’s a great way to spend some time in retirement.
Finally! Good clear video with DETAILED information. Thank you! 👍
Thank you, Jb! Hope you'll subscribe to the channel. Cheers, Paul
ToolMetrix Yes sir, already did. Thanks.
Awesome video. I was wondering if a planer can also be used to strip the finish or paint from cabinet doors and save some time?
Hi Landon, I wouldn’t do it. It would be very tough on your planer knives.
Great explanation. As a newbie woodworker the one thing that is still confusing to me is that it would seem difficult to get your board to your desired measurements if your doing all of this wood removal after you've already cut/ripped your board to size. So, how do you account for the jointer/planer cuts and still get your board to your desired measurements? Thank you.
Hi Joe, Thanks for your question. You do all of these steps before you cut to your final size. If you are using rough lumber you have to start with material that is thicker than your target board size in all dimensions.The planing step takes you to your final thickness. Just keep planing more off until you have achieved the thickness that you're after. The last step shown here rips the board to its final width. Then you just cut to your desired length and you are done.
Thank you for the video. Super simplified but very thorough. Keep producing content please!
Thanks for sharing your feedback, James!
Outstanding clarity, easy to follow, great video! Thank you very much.
Thanks David.
Great explanation. I have a quick question if you won't mind answering. Could you use Acrylic for smoothing the edges? I was thinking of buying a Router, but now I'm considering a Jointer. What would you recommend? Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback. I've never tried smoothing wood with acrylic so I'm not sure. A router is one of the most versatile tools in the shop, so I would recommend getting on of those before a jointer. But ultimately if you stick with the hobby you will likely want both.
Excellent!! How do you know when the first jointer pass is perfectly flat?
Listen, and when you hear the knives connecting with wood for the entire pass you are probably done. Take a look, set it on a flat surface and inspect to be sure. One more pass is good insurance as well, in case you were only cutting on one edge in some spots.
Great video with helpful information. Although, you didn't really discuss whether or not it's absolutely essential to have both a planer and a jointer. While it's certainly nice to have both, it is possible to flatten and square a board with only a planer and table saw, using a planer sled and wedges. Not everyone has the space or the money for both and it does work quite well with a little practice. Just and FYI for the viewers out there.
Thanks
Hi Paul. I'm kind of an amateur wood working person. I'm planning to buy a planer for my small workshop. I found a device which is basically 2 in 1. A jointer and planer at the same time. Do you recommend such things for beginners? Parkside is the brand of that device.
I’m not familiar with that unit. I’m not a huge fan of the portable combo planer jointers but if you have space constraints it should serve you ok for awhile.
Very well done video!!!
Just a question: why not use the planer for the fourth side? Wouldn't it be smoother than the table saw?
You could do that. If your planer didn't have any snipe, and if you don't have a good table saw, it would likely be smoother.
Newbie here. In the begining you mentioned fine woodworking. What about unfine woodworking. Like outdoor projects.. planters, dog house, is 4s lumber still needed?
For those projects specifically, if you buy your lumber carefully and pick the straightest stuff you should be fine. I wouldn’t buy a planer and jointer to build those.
Awesome video. Thank you for making it so clear and concise. Greta job
Thanks for the feedback, Bret! Cheers, Paul
WOW!!! I've been watching these woodworking videos for 2 weeks now and it has sparked my interest in investing in some woodworking machinery, but I had been somewhat wondering about this process. Finally found a video!! LoL, Thank you for explaining it in simple terms Sir. Your brand new subscriber.👍👍👍
Thank you for your kind words, Gerald. You've made my day!
Orange Rocket this rabbit hole go’s deep my friend
Thank you. This was an excellent explanation. I wish there were a video like this that described the differences in the sizes of jointer and planers.
Thank you. I’ll give that some thought.
Thanks for taking the time to put this out. Great video.
🙏 thanks Kyle!
Thanks for the info, great job in explaining the role of the jointer and planer!
Thanks for the feedbak, Tim!
Great explanation. Easy to understand and helped address some of my questions.
Thanks Ben 🙏
Happy to see this video is part of the internet of things. I know that in some countries a thumb up is an insult, but why would you thumb down this video?
Thanks Glassfish!
Great explanation - super clear and exactly what I was looking for trying to decide whether I need one tool or both. Thanks!
Awesome. Thanks for your feedback. Cheers, Paul
i have both of those exact tools, work wonderfully! Great video explaining how to properly use them.
Thanks for the feedback, Kyle!
Fantastic information, and I appreciate that you answered what I was thinking of doing, just using the jointer for all sides. Thank you for this!
Thanks for your feedback. Glad it was helpful!
Wow this video is years old and still the best explanation out there.
Question: can you run a 4x4 through a planar or is that too thick a material?
Thank you, and as long as your planer has sufficient capacity you can. Most planers can handle up to 6”.
Greetings Paul! Most planers are normally 12-13" wide, yet the jointer is narrow. How would you run a piece of wood say 10 inches wide on the jointer? Thank you.
@@LivingFree365 yeah the mismatch is kinda silly. I usually rip the board down to a size that will work on my jointer, mill it S4S then glue it back together. Sometimes I use a hand plane to face joint. Doesn’t have to be perfect just flat enough to run through the planer. Use winding sticks to guide you. You can also use a sled on your planer, and insert some shims below the board to hold it solidly as the planer shaves one side flat (face joint).
@@ToolMetrix Awesome! Thank you for the reply. I think the sledidea would be my best option. Cheers, Shu!
Awesome Shu. Best of luck. Cheers, Paul
Very helpful video. As a beginner, im not buying those machines soon. Does home depot sell boards that are square 4 sides? Im trying to build a small table and need some perfect boards to glue edge to edge for the top
Hi Miguel, you can buy boards at HD that are "close enough" to being S4S if you are VERY careful when you pick them out, but you will want to still put a fresh edge on them using a table saw and a good blade. Check out my "best blade" video and see that you can do this for cheap.
Thank you for a well-informed,clear,concise explanation…much obliged.
Thanks for watching and sharing your feedback. Cheers
Fantastic explanation. I always only thought I needed just the one. If just starting out, which one should I prioritise ? I'm thinking the planer..
Hi oohsam, thank you. I depends what you are doing. If you are working with rough lumber, then I'd suggest getting a planer. If you are edge gluing boards and you buy your lumber already surfaced, I'd lean toward a jointer.
What’s the reason for doing the last edge with a table saw as opposed to running it through the jointer again? Just to maintain parallel?
Hi Robbie,
Yes, this is done to create parallel edges. If you just run the final edge through the jointer, the two edges will not necessarily be parallel. If parallel is not important, then you can just run through the jointer.
That works if board is correct width but the odds are you need to cut 1 or more pieces out of that stock to size (width).
@@ToolMetrix But it will be perpendicular to the flat surface so.... I like sdnlawrence's answer, No?
If you don’t rip the second edge it won’t be parallel to the first edge. If you’re ok with that, you can definitely do it. If you want it parallel, and an S4S board, you will want to either rip it or run it through a planer. You can make a light pass on the jointer to clean up saw marks on the final edge. That would force it out of parallel with the first edge but probably not by much.
Beautifully clear explanation of the basics. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I noticed you used a very short board, and bench top tools. How long a board could you send through the bench top tools and maintain quality. GreatGreatGreat video. You have convinced my wife of the importance of two new tools I need to buy!!
"You have convinced my wife..." Hi Tom, sounds like my work is done here! :) You can typically expect to get a good straight edge on a board that is 1.5 - 2 times the length of the infeed table on your jointer. Cheers, Paul
Really interesting, thanks for the info. I don't remember learning this in woodshop class
Thanks for the feedback, David. Cheers, Paul
Great video. Explained a great deal. One question. Why use the table saw on the final edge? Why could we not use the jointer again once it's been run through the planer? Would that not provide the same result?
The jointer is only referencing against the bed and the fence. It's only capability is to create an edge that is square to the adjacent surface that is against the fence, and to create a flat surface based on the high points that are touching the bed. So, if you envision taking a board that has two edges that come to a point, kind of like a slice of pie. You can run those edges through the jointer and achieve two edges that are square to one of the faces, but the edges won't end up being parallel to one another no matter how many times you run the piece through the jointer because they have no reference to the other edge.
What a great informative video. Very simple and clear explanations. I found it very helpful and now have a much better understanding of how to use the two tools together. Thanks very much. Great job!
Hi TG! Thanks for the great comment.
setting up datum surfaces, that geometric tolerancing course is coming in handy now
It's fun when you get to apply that sort of knowledge in the shop. :)
Hi,
You mentioned that you can't get away with just the jointer, but can you get away with just planer?
Thanks!
Yes, you can. You could use a sled to face joint, but it's a PITA.
I need three tools to parallel and equal all four sides? Is this process necessary when working with new lumber? Can you tell me when this process is most necessary and common? Thanks in advance.
You should always put a fresh jointed edge on any board that will be edge glued. It doesn't matter how old it is, just how straight it is. Face jointing should be used any time that a board won't lay flat on a bench or other flat surface. The process is most common when working with rough lumber. Also, when multiple boards are being joined together to form a single panel, such as a table top.
Sorry if this is a stupid questions. I'm just starting out with wood-working here and i couldn't find an answer to this. Since you're milling wood to be perfectly flat, you're essentially making the wood pieces' dimensions a bit smaller. Do you recommend buying wood a size a little bigger than the actual dimensions you really need?
That's a great question, and I appreciate your asking it. If you need a precise finished size, then you definitely want to take that into account when you buy your lumber. This is especially true if you buy rough lumber where you will see a significant difference between the rough size and the finished size, due to cups, crooks, bows, etc.
sorry if this is a dumb question, but why couldn't you also plane the 4th side instead of running through the tablesaw?
You could, but it wouldn't produce an edge that was parallel with the other edge because it would have no way of referencing it. Imagine if you start the process with a trapezoid, which effectively to some extent you will be. If you simply joint that final edge, you will still have a trapezoid. Ripping it on the table saw will ensure that both edges are parallel. If your project doesn't require parallel edges, and many don't, then its fine to just joint the final edge. If I'm just gluing up boards to make a panel, for example, and they are "close enough" to being parallel, I'll just joint the final edge because ultimately I'm going to rip the panel to width anyway, making both edges of the full panel parallel.
Best description of joiner and planer
Great info and great video. So the jointer and planer create S4S lumber, but how would one go about creating two or more pieces of S4S lumber that are true to each other (exact same thickness, etc.)?
As long as you processed the pieces sequentially without changing the your planer height and table saw fence position the pieces would be identical.
Thank you for the very easy to follow explanation. Good Job!
Thank you, Joan!
Nice job explaining the differences between the two.
Thank you for the feedback, Eric!
Great video. Not a carpenter but love watching concise and educational video.
Thanks!!!
I was wondering if you might have a recommendation on a Jointer. I have a planer already. Thanks!
The one in this video is here: amzn.to/2sEbMb0 . If you are restricted to space or budget that will only allow a benchtop jointer, that is a good one. I strongly favor a stationary unit if you can swing it. This one would be the ideal jointer IMO: amzn.to/2UXel0X
Or, you could buy it without the helical head and still have an outstanding jointer amzn.to/2X5ueUT
I've been looking around for both a bench jointer and a planer, would you recommend Porter-Cable as a brand to go with or would you recommend something else? =)
I think the jointer is nice and is one of the better options in its class: amzn.to/2sEbMb0. For the planer, the one in the video is decent, amzn.to/2EFEqy4, but it snipes a bit. My top pic for a portable planer is this one: amzn.to/2N035g0
If you want to save a little money, my second choice would be this one: amzn.to/2OaCiSR
@@ToolMetrix Ahh good ol' Dewalt! We have -a lot- of electrical tools of that brand. Thank you for the help!
That was the most amazing explanation on youtube! thank you so much!!!
Thanks Jack!
This is very well explained video. Very succinct! Quick question. What if i only have a plainer & table saw? If i run a somewhat old 2" by 12" x 4' piece through it and then hack off the final side with the table saw, will it get the job done? It's a personal project so it doesn't have to be immaculate. I mainly just want to renew the look of the wood. Will the wood look new but most likely not be completely straight/parallel? Thanks for your time & your thorough videos.
Hi Alex, thanks for the kind words. If the board is flat at the start of the process, and you are only trying to get it to look new again, you should be fine using your approach. If the board is has a bow to it, you might not be able to remove that with normal planer operations. For that, you could either flatten (face joint) one side with a hand plane, then plane the other side so that it is parallel, and then flip it again and plane the side that you hand planed to clean it up. If one edge is reasonable straight, you should be able to clean those up on the table saw by putting the straightest edge against the fence first, rip, then flip and rip the original edge to clean it up if needed. If you dont have a straight edge to begin with, then snap a straight line on one edge and cut to it using a jig saw, band saw, hand saw, or hand plane to get an edge that is straight enough to put up against your table saw fence with not gaps. That makes for a safe, good quality cut on the opposing side. Then flip and clean up with another cut.
Absolutely. Thank you for the thorough and thoughtful answer. This was hugely helpful. Keep up the awesomeness!
I noticed you’re using porter cable for the example. They carry them at my Lowes. Would you recommend them?
Hi Scott, I would recommend getting a stationary machine if you have the space. Heavier machine with a belt driven motor is in general a better way to go. But if you’re space constrained these PC bench top jointers do a respectable job for smaller projects. A good rule of thumb for a jointer is that you can accurately joint boards that are up to twice as long as the infeed table. That can give you some idea of the size of work you can expect to do on this machine. Within that scope of work, yes I would recommend it. You can find a review for this machine on my channel from a friend who uses it regularly and loves it.
I'll have a beer on you sir. You finally answered my question.
I'm honored. :) Glad to have helped. Cheers, Paul
Very cool video.Awesome explanation and nothing more than great information
Thanks David!
Loved the video, but just one little question... why can't you flip the board over on its long axis and use the flat edge that you have just created on the jointer to create the second face? I seem to recall seeing that on another RUclips video.
Hi Stephanie, if you did that you could create a surface that is square to its adjacent edge but not parallel to the opposite face because it is not referencing off of the face. That's why you take it to the planer. The planer will reference off the opposing face to create a face that is flat and parallel to it, in addition to being square to its adjacent edge because the edge is square to the first flat face that you created.
Clear, concise, and informative. Thank you!
Thanks Eric! 🙏
Thanks for explaining it well. Now I totally understand. Other videos are not as helpful. Now I am off to tell the wife I need a jointer and a planer.
Awesome! Best of luck and have her call me if you need backup 😂
Thankyou for a great video. What if you are using box store 2 x 10's spruce framing lumber and you wish to true up this lumber. What kind of jointer do you use?
Hi Bob, thanks for your question. You could do this one of a few different ways. The easy way would be to face joint on a 10" or larger jointer. If you do not have access to one of those, you would still have a couple options. First, you could rip the board in half and follow the steps in the video from there, then glue the two halves back together when they are squared up. Or, you could hand plane the board as flat as possible on one side, and use that as your face jointed surface. Doesn't have to be perfect because after you plane the board you just flip it over and run your hand planed/face jointed surface through in one final pass to clean it up. I do this a lot and it works great.
You cleared this mystery up for me. Thank you kindly!
Thank you, Scott! Hope you'll subscribe to the channel if you haven't already done so. Cheers.
Could you joint the last edge after running it through the planer instead of ripping it on the table saw? How would that be different?
You can but your edges won’t be parallel. I demonstrate that in a video ruclips.net/video/9O8YHf26mwQ/видео.html
If you are doing several boards, how would you ensure that they all end up the same thickness?
You would run them all the the planer, set to the same thickness.
Thanks for the video... this is exactly what I needed and it’s explained very well.
Thanks for the feedback Shannon. Glad that you found it helpful. Cheers, Paul
If a beginner could buy only one to make furniture, which one you advise?
It depends completely on what materials you will be using and what you will be making. If you buy lumber that is already surfaced you might be able to get by without a planer. If you don’t plan to edge join boards to form panels you might be able to get by without a jointer. I use both a lot but I’d say I use a jointer more.
This is an excellent video with a clear explanation of both tools. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback, Nico! Cheers, Paul
Great video. Thank you. One question though: What if the width of the board is wider than the width of the jointer? For example, I have an 8" wide piece of wood, but the width of the jointer I have access to is only 5" wide?
Great question, and one that is worth another video. There are a few different ways that you can deal with this. Normally what I would do is pull out some winding sticks and a hand plane, and get one face as flat as possible. Then put that face down and run through the planer. Then flip and run through again. At that point you should have two faces that are flat and parallel. Another approach is to remove the guard from your jointer and face joint as much of the board as your jointer will allow. Be VERY careful when doing this. Then use a hand plane to clean up the other 3" in your case, getting it as flat as you can. Then plane both sides. Another approach is to build a sled for your planer and place shims below the board so that you establish a base that won't rock. Run the board through the planer to flatten the top, then flip and flatten the other side. Hope this helps. Cheers, Paul
Assuming I have no table saw, once you have the two faces and one edge squared up, can’t you use the jointer again to do the other edge using the now flat and parallel face as a reference? Is it because the other edge isn’t referenced by the jointer (just like the sides) whereas the flat square edge is referenced by the table saw fence?
One more, if I’m making a tabletop and I mill the lumber like this, I’m changing it’s dimensions slightly right? So couldn’t I end up with a bunch of planks that are perfectly edged and parallel but now they are different thicknesses from each other? How do you fix that? Once they are glued the table top is to big for the planer right?
You could do this, but you will not achieve sides that are parallel to one another for the reason that you stated. For many glue-ups, I don't care if the sides of individual boards are exactly parallel with one another as long as they are close enough. I will generally rip an edge on the final panel glue up so that ultimately the panel sides are parallel.
My planer has a thickness gauge. So for a tabletop, I would set it at the thickness that would enable all my boards to be the same
Hi Tbone, start by measuring all of the boards, and if they are not the same thickness, even off by a tiny amount, start removing from the thickest boards first. Then slowly lower the cutterhead and make successive passes until you are removing a wood across the top surface of all the boards. Then flip and slowly reduce thickness until you are removing wood across the full surface on all of the side B's. Then you're done, unless you want a specific thickness, and in that cases you would keep going until you've reached that thickness. I generally stop after I've gotten both sides completely smooth on all boards, because I want to minimize the debris that I'm creating.
Jeez. I agree with the the other guy who said it. The absolute best explanation on this topic. I was so confused but now it all makes so much sense. I can die now. Thank you.
Thanks. Don’t die though. Subscribe and come back for more! 😀
Brilliant video, you explained it so well, thanks
Thanks Shaun 🙏
How do you like your Porter Cable jointer and planer that I see in this video? I've been considering these two items to purchase.
I'd say that the PC jointer is decent if you don't have room for a stationary jointer. If you have the space, a stationary jointer is a much better move, particularly for jointing larger stock. Jet, Powermatic, and Laguna are good options. As far as planers, the PC is a good value, and I think would serve you pretty well. The biggest downside is that it doesn't have a locking cutterhead, so it will tend to snipe the leading and trailing 3" on each board. If you can step up to a Dewalt you can avoid that, but they are more expensive. Cheers, Paul
Can you run it through a router table for the last step?
I would not recommend doing that a it would require pinching the board between the fence and a spinning bit which is not a safe practice.
Please dont be mad at me but if the planer mad e the other flat side flat why can't I reference that planed side against the jointer fence and make the forth side flat? Thank you for your answer and this video.
You can do it that way if you only care about flat. If you also want parallel you have to use the planer. This video explains it: How to Make PERFECTLY SQUARE S4S Boards
ruclips.net/video/9O8YHf26mwQ/видео.html