Looking good buddy ! Without using hardener in the rustoleum, your paint is to soft for clear coat. When you add hardener it turns your rustoleum paint into a 2k product. So therefore you can spray a 2k clear coat on top. I use 2 ounces of hardener per 18 ounce gun pot. Makes it tighten up quick and strong.
@chadlove3443 technically the big complaint with Rust-Oleum over other paints is its dry time so hardener in general is a big advantage in that way as well as it's said to increase gloss and longevity however you can wait a week or so and it does cure out fine it's really just a preference on how long you want to wait to handle your car after a paint job but I've used 2K urethane clear over it without hardener and never had any issues Thanks for watching
As a teenager acrylic enamel is what I learned with... And I forgot to add harder one time. The guy said it never dried/cured. We both laughed because it was a old work truck and beside we both was halfway through a 5th of Lord Calvert lol. But a ole school tip I learned from dad.... If you Add a little extra harder with each pot. You'll get a deeper shine... Plus, you can always use a universal clear coat. That's what I had to do back then because 90% of my customers wanted me to airbrush the trunk or hood. So with acrylic enamel I would take a Scotch bright pad and knock the shine off (things are different now. This was back in the 80s) then after I finished the airbrush I shot a coat of universal clear to brighten everything back up.... Same thing when doing (say) a flame job.... You freehand the flames with 1\4 inch stripping tape. Then go back and paper off what you don't want painted.... With acrylic is was a long process... Because when you scuff the flames. You needed to get as close to the tape as possible...for a big wrap around flame job. You might as well scuff the whole car back down.. Then you top everything with the universal clear.
Had a buddy (Pro Painter) tell me for years that hardener added to Rust-oleum enamel was an affordable way to paint a vehicle. I did my first full vehicle on my Ex wife’s 86’ Dodge (Clear Coat peeling era) P.U. I didn’t clear coat it, painted it the exact blue base color and the truck was sold over 13 years ago. Saw it about six months ago and the “Smurf Truck” still looked decent, considering it has sat outside in the FL sun every day since!
Restoration Shop sells enamel and urethane paints that are activated with a catalyst, as well as basecoats, all at a good price. So does Urechem. Rustoleum with a hardener is better tasked at engine bays, suspension parts, and underbody parts, no clearcoat needed. My favorite clear is SPI Universal.
PPG Omni or Shopline value products are the same cost of Nason or Finishline but slightly better in the user friendly category, MC161 is really showroom quality for a “cheap” clear. Being a busy hobby guy, I went through them all and quality/consistency was a major issue with all brands, not with PPG though.
Love what you did here. I would love to see a video on the cut and buff and how to do it. I am going to do a paint job on my old beater soon and would like to replicate what you are doing! Keep it up. I appreciate you!
I paint a car,let it set 2 days wash it with cold water and a t shirt- 😎no soap. Repeat every day for 2 weeks. Next 2 weeks ido the same,except I add a little tide to the water . Hardens up the paint,washes out any dirt. Never had a problem yet. 🔥
The rust oleum cures by oxidation- it needs exposure to the air to cure and harden, as opposed to urethane base coat, which is as hard as it gets as soon as the solvent flashes off. By clear coating over it, its not getting the oxygen it needs and it will stay soft. I would give the paint at least a few days before clearing over it, even if you add a hardener. If the paint is only tacky, it hasn't even started to cure, it just flashed off the solvent.
Ya touched base on transparent that is one of things I enjoy most of videos and advice on products in do it yourself guys and we who love to experiment it will definitely save us on headaches sharing ya wisdom
Thanks for update, people were talking about overspray on tailpipes? lol I’m an old head and have had Earl Shive paint jobs, overspray on tires, windows, rear view, antenna and I time they even got paint on my seat
Paint on the seat 🤣👍 Yeah I know I'm an old school painter as well you can always clean it later if you have to but I understand everybody has their way of doing things lol I appreciate you thanks for watching!!!
Did you put enamel hardener in that blue rust oleum? I can’t remember I usually do that so hard and better before clearcoat it and I typically leave 24 hours in between. When you spray clearcoat on tacky rust oleum, then it traps the solvent from the rust oleum under the clear and then it takes forever to dry out
No I didn't add a hardener to the Rustoleum typically when I do my paint jobs it's with 2K urethane clear coat and I never have any issues with it bonding and drying like normal I tried a different system this time and it just didn't work out as well but it will dry out good with time this isn't my first time having this happen thanks for watching
Some people used japanese minerals or acetone to cure rustulium paint maybe that would do the trick .and wait 1week so all the solvnets dry and then the clear coat.but i tink your job is executed excellent just give a little more time to cure .👍👌
I always recommend Speedo Kote SMR-42 H.S. Or SPI Universal Clear. I’ve not had good luck with Acme Finish 1 clear, it just seems too think and has a slight haze when dry 🤷♂️. I do however much prefer their Hardener and always recommend that for Rustoleum paint jobs.
I finally got to try the speedokote on a test piece that I sprayed with rustoleum a while back and it turned out really good. I still like the sikkens clear better but I’ve kind of been down this road before with trying a new product. That being said I’m hoping that after using the speedokote a few times I’ll get more accustomed to the little quirks. I started with a tack coat, then 3 heavier coats and finished with a drop coat and it turned out really well. I did notice that this does seem like it takes a little longer to flash than others I have used. I do like the price of it though and that’s going to be the enticement to getting to know this clear in itself. Thanks for turning us onto it. I think it is a good alternative to the expensive stuff
I think this car was worth at least an ebay single stage urethane job with clear over it. No matter how many guys try the Rust-Oleum paint, its not auto paint and I just cant get myself to do it. But if u gotta use rustpaint, it seems a product like Speedokote production glamour clear or smr 130 fast drying clear would be good. Locks down fast
Oh my!!… And to think I was about to adopt you so you could paint some of your “new Dad’s” cars! 😉😂 Seriously…. You’re doing a great job. You show ambition and skills that most of us dream about having!
The car looks great bro. Setbacks just happen sometimes. I have a Rustoleum job with a SprayMax 2K over it. At the time it was the best I could do. This is a bit of information good to know. I'm going to repeat my paint job but go into more depth on it this time. I'll likely use Speedokote. Great video.
Acme Finish 1 is what I going to use... (Off topic) I remember when the 2 stage base/clear coat first became popular round here... And back in the late 80s early 90s DuPont had a product called Chroma Base.... Expensive, but oh dear lord it sprayed beautiful! Especially, with a nice Sata gun
Yes I do not recommend it no UV protection and starts to break down after a few months I recommend speedokote 2k urethane clear coat for the best finish and longevity. Thanks for watching
The problem isn't the UPOL clear - rustoleum is a different type of paint that really shouldn't be topcoated with urethane clear. It isn't an automotive type paint. If you want to go cheap ( which we all like at one time or another) ,go with an acrylic enamel basecoat ,several companies make it, I have used dupont, R-M, acme, Sherwin-Williams also make good cheaper bases. They can also be activated w/ hardener and work really well with just about any urethane clear coat. I have used UPOL clear on alot of jobs, and never had a problem. Their spot & panel clear, as well as the overall clear are good stuff. Im not criticizing your work,the job turned out good looking, but the solvents are going to take a while to evaporate out. Hope that helps you.! Keep on going!😊😊
@The1Music2MyEars no it's not necessary but just depends on what kind of enamel base coat you use because there are different types some call for a hardener and some don't. Thanks for watching!
The problem isn’t the clear. Rustoleum needs a few days sitting, then you can block the rustoleum and clear it. The rustoleum needs about a week before clear from my experience if you don’t want issues. I love fc720 finish1
Good job son. I'm inspired to do kinda the same thing. I'm a new subscriber and was wondering if you do painting equipment / gun recommendations for DIY'rs? I want to start doing small jobs at first with a small sized HVLP gun. I have the compressor. Thanks for taking the time and explaining clearly.
I think i commented this before, but some of those modern cryatal clear headlight assmblies would look good. Maybe some led bulbs. They are pretty cheap online and even made of glass.
(Pause) I had a 1991 like that.... The only other body style I like besides this one is the 1978... The 1st year with the rubber front clip. The 1977 had the chrome/aluminum bumper. Dad had a 77 and he always wanted the 70 model that just had the corner bumpers with the oval grill.... So what he done was, cut the center section out the bumper (on the 77) and took another top half (of the grill) from a different 77 and flipped it upside down. Then bolted it to the top half and where the point of the 2 grills he bolted on a 396 emblem from a 1969 SS Chevelle. I've never seen another mod like that since.... He done all that in 1990. He cramped a BB 396 in that 77 Camaro WITH full Hooker headers. He had to use the low profile value covers because of the brake booster/master cylinder. Thanks for the upload and the memories! (Now I can finish watching the video lol) Oh by the way, you want to see a sexy hood scoop that looks awesome on the older Camaro? Look up the *L88 Corvette scoop* It's badass
You know what I think would look good? is some classic camero hood racing stripes. I saw a pic online of a burnt orange camaro that was the same gen as yours and had the same hood as yours with two thick black racing stripes on the hood bulge. It looked pretty slick.
you need to give it time to dry before you clearcoat it. I let it dry 3 weeks indoors then block it out with 600 grit and clear coat it. if you can still smell the paint on the car, it's not dry yet. that hood really needs blocking though...
I believe that happened because you should have let the enamel completely dry before applying the clear also a pear carrier binder is the best way to spray that peal but the nice part is that people now no that you can apply auto clear over house paint just add pearl if you're wanting a metallic nice.
Yeah I've had this happen multiple times with different products just the nature of the game sometimes everything's cured out good now so no big deal many factors The weather humidity hardener the clear system etc but it's all sorted out thanks for watching!
John, LOOKS GREAT. I'm thinking about the Safety Red on my 94 F350 crew cab. Can you do a color shift with the red. What would compliment it. THANK YOU for your time. Time is so precious and something you can never get back.
I appreciate your comment honestly when it comes to colorshifts over red I think anything with a gold in it over red really pops out more than anything else and compliments the red I've done quite a few colorshifts over red check out the olive colorshift vid if you get a chance just an example. ruclips.net/video/3YzJ-ZT5m2I/видео.htmlsi=uYdsIf9ZHu_gyMLB Thanks for watching!!!
Yes very possible but I've also just had some clear coats not work period with Rustoleum regardless. I tell everyone to use 2k urethane clear coat in combination with Rust-Oleum it will work well together and dry at a rate that allows everything to cure out as it should and it's never given me issues thanks for watching!!!
Looks good just needs a stripe or something to break it up a bit. I'm going to paint my 3rd gen soon. I've never sprayed a car before so we will see how it turns out.
Yeah the speedo coat works great it's usually dry in about 6 to 8 hours so in 24 to 48 hours it should be plenty good to cut and buff thanks for watching
No I typically don't when I do these paint jobs with clear coat but I have always had good results using 2k urethane clear coat and have never had any issues with it. I've tried it many other ways with other clear coats and gotten all kinds of reactions in the past I just took a chance with the upol this time and it didn't work out as well. Thanks for watching!!!
Rustoleum just isn't meant to be cleared over... save yourself the headache and buy real basecoat, it will last longer and the end result will be worth the cost difference
looks good, but I would have either 2 toned it or put stripes on the hood and rear deck , it's way to much blue and really takes away from the body lines of the car. just my opinion
You're not wrong I agree some contrast is always pretty cool and fits the car we might do something it's not my car I will see what he wants to do but regardless thanks for your comment and thanks for watching!!!
Hi Johnathan, When you say the paint is not drying and is soft are you talking about the Rustoleum is still soft or the clear coat is soft or both? Maybe I missed your explanation on why it's still soft. In the previous video, you mentioned you waited 45 minutes then applied the clear coat over the Rustolem. Perhaps you needed to add some acrylic hardener to the Rustoleum?
The Rust-Oleum is still somewhat soft underneath I have had this issue before in the past it will cure out it just takes time Yes I could have added a hardener to possibly counteract the issue but also it might have fault with the activator from the clear coat I usually never had this issue with a urethane based clear coat so I took a chance on a new system which is why I tell everyone stick with a 2K urethane clear because regardless whether you add hardener or not to the Rustoleum it typically always works very well together same as any other automotive grade paint job thanks for watching!
Yeah after this experience I would have to agree but I've never used it before so now I know and everybody else that watches the video will know too lol thanks for watching!!!
That sucks, I’m sorry! The color turned out really cool though. Are you thinking about painting the headlight buckets black? As a nod to the IROCs and Z28’s of course.
The paint will settle out and the Camaro will return we got tons more planned with it soon guys so stay tuned!!! Thanks for watching!!!
Looking good buddy ! Without using hardener in the rustoleum, your paint is to soft for clear coat. When you add hardener it turns your rustoleum paint into a 2k product. So therefore you can spray a 2k clear coat on top. I use 2 ounces of hardener per 18 ounce gun pot. Makes it tighten up quick and strong.
I've heard a touch of Japan dryer is great for rustoleum in addition to the hardener.
@shoes121255 yeah you can do both to speed up dry time
Instead of using hardener or Japan dryer, can you just wait a few days? It does the hardener create a different finish?
@chadlove3443 technically the big complaint with Rust-Oleum over other paints is its dry time so hardener in general is a big advantage in that way as well as it's said to increase gloss and longevity however you can wait a week or so and it does cure out fine it's really just a preference on how long you want to wait to handle your car after a paint job but I've used 2K urethane clear over it without hardener and never had any issues Thanks for watching
As a teenager acrylic enamel is what I learned with... And I forgot to add harder one time. The guy said it never dried/cured. We both laughed because it was a old work truck and beside we both was halfway through a 5th of Lord Calvert lol. But a ole school tip I learned from dad.... If you Add a little extra harder with each pot. You'll get a deeper shine... Plus, you can always use a universal clear coat. That's what I had to do back then because 90% of my customers wanted me to airbrush the trunk or hood. So with acrylic enamel I would take a Scotch bright pad and knock the shine off (things are different now. This was back in the 80s) then after I finished the airbrush I shot a coat of universal clear to brighten everything back up.... Same thing when doing (say) a flame job.... You freehand the flames with 1\4 inch stripping tape. Then go back and paper off what you don't want painted.... With acrylic is was a long process... Because when you scuff the flames. You needed to get as close to the tape as possible...for a big wrap around flame job. You might as well scuff the whole car back down.. Then you top everything with the universal clear.
Had a buddy (Pro Painter) tell me for years that hardener added to Rust-oleum enamel was an affordable way to paint a vehicle. I did my first full vehicle on my Ex wife’s 86’ Dodge (Clear Coat peeling era) P.U. I didn’t clear coat it, painted it the exact blue base color and the truck was sold over 13 years ago. Saw it about six months ago and the “Smurf Truck” still looked decent, considering it has sat outside in the FL sun every day since!
It looks great. I think blackout around the headlight areas and the center of the hood would look cool.
Thanks for your honesty Jon.
Love that color, definitely suits that car!
Restoration Shop sells enamel and urethane paints that are activated with a catalyst, as well as basecoats, all at a good price. So does Urechem. Rustoleum with a hardener is better tasked at engine bays, suspension parts, and underbody parts, no clearcoat needed.
My favorite clear is SPI Universal.
The car looks pretty good! But you did do it on a budget but lesson learned love the channel Brother! Keep up the great work
Thanks man I appreciate it!
PPG Omni or Shopline value products are the same cost of Nason or Finishline but slightly better in the user friendly category, MC161 is really showroom quality for a “cheap” clear. Being a busy hobby guy, I went through them all and quality/consistency was a major issue with all brands, not with PPG though.
Looks great buddy
Beautiful job at the end of the day
Love what you did here. I would love to see a video on the cut and buff and how to do it. I am going to do a paint job on my old beater soon and would like to replicate what you are doing! Keep it up. I appreciate you!
I paint a car,let it set 2 days wash it with cold water and a t shirt- 😎no soap. Repeat every day for 2 weeks. Next 2 weeks ido the same,except I add a little tide to the water . Hardens up the paint,washes out any dirt. Never had a problem yet. 🔥
Honestly it turned out nice great job buddy
The rust oleum cures by oxidation- it needs exposure to the air to cure and harden, as opposed to urethane base coat, which is as hard as it gets as soon as the solvent flashes off. By clear coating over it, its not getting the oxygen it needs and it will stay soft. I would give the paint at least a few days before clearing over it, even if you add a hardener. If the paint is only tacky, it hasn't even started to cure, it just flashed off the solvent.
Good things take time and not everything is perfect!! Thanks for the update. Still a killer looking car.
So true and thanks for watching!!!
Ya touched base on transparent that is one of things I enjoy most of videos and advice on products in do it yourself guys and we who love to experiment it will definitely save us on headaches sharing ya wisdom
Glad to help any way I can always trying to be honest with you guys thanks for watching!!!
@@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS been following for a bit now look forward to every update
Thanks for update, people were talking about overspray on tailpipes? lol I’m an old head and have had Earl Shive paint jobs, overspray on tires, windows, rear view, antenna and I time they even got paint on my seat
Paint on the seat 🤣👍 Yeah I know I'm an old school painter as well you can always clean it later if you have to but I understand everybody has their way of doing things lol I appreciate you thanks for watching!!!
Did you put enamel hardener in that blue rust oleum? I can’t remember I usually do that so hard and better before clearcoat it and I typically leave 24 hours in between.
When you spray clearcoat on tacky rust oleum, then it traps the solvent from the rust oleum under the clear and then it takes forever to dry out
No I didn't add a hardener to the Rustoleum typically when I do my paint jobs it's with 2K urethane clear coat and I never have any issues with it bonding and drying like normal I tried a different system this time and it just didn't work out as well but it will dry out good with time this isn't my first time having this happen thanks for watching
Man thats a great bang for your buck paint job. True what they say do it yourself is always better
Some people used japanese minerals or acetone to cure rustulium paint maybe that would do the trick .and wait 1week so all the solvnets dry and then the clear coat.but i tink your job is executed excellent just give a little more time to cure .👍👌
Looks great ! How about letting the Rustoleum dry more before applying the clear coat ? Maybe that can help with drying and shrinkage.
Yeah there's many ways to do it I just tried something different this time but now everybody knows learn from my mistakes lol thanks for watching
Overall still looks good good job
Thanks for the great vids~honesty and integrity about what you are doing, using, and learning. Great job.
It looks good!!Keep up with the good work!🎉
Lookin good so far... Maybe we can figure out some of why it stayed super soft for so long!
I always recommend Speedo Kote SMR-42 H.S. Or SPI Universal Clear. I’ve not had good luck with Acme Finish 1 clear, it just seems too think and has a slight haze when dry 🤷♂️. I do however much prefer their Hardener and always recommend that for Rustoleum paint jobs.
I finally got to try the speedokote on a test piece that I sprayed with rustoleum a while back and it turned out really good. I still like the sikkens clear better but I’ve kind of been down this road before with trying a new product. That being said I’m hoping that after using the speedokote a few times I’ll get more accustomed to the little quirks. I started with a tack coat, then 3 heavier coats and finished with a drop coat and it turned out really well. I did notice that this does seem like it takes a little longer to flash than others I have used. I do like the price of it though and that’s going to be the enticement to getting to know this clear in itself. Thanks for turning us onto it. I think it is a good alternative to the expensive stuff
I think this car was worth at least an ebay single stage urethane job with clear over it. No matter how many guys try the Rust-Oleum paint, its not auto paint and I just cant get myself to do it.
But if u gotta use rustpaint, it seems a product like Speedokote production glamour clear or smr 130 fast drying clear would be good. Locks down fast
Oh my!!… And to think I was about to adopt you so you could paint some of your “new Dad’s” cars! 😉😂
Seriously…. You’re doing a great job. You show ambition and skills that most of us dream about having!
The car looks great bro. Setbacks just happen sometimes. I have a Rustoleum job with a SprayMax 2K over it. At the time it was the best I could do. This is a bit of information good to know. I'm going to repeat my paint job but go into more depth on it this time. I'll likely use Speedokote. Great video.
Acme Finish 1 is what I going to use... (Off topic) I remember when the 2 stage base/clear coat first became popular round here... And back in the late 80s early 90s DuPont had a product called Chroma Base.... Expensive, but oh dear lord it sprayed beautiful! Especially, with a nice Sata gun
Love your videos there very informative for a guy trying to learn to paint.
Have you ever used the tractor supply clear no reducing pour into the gun & shot.
Yes I do not recommend it no UV protection and starts to break down after a few months I recommend speedokote 2k urethane clear coat for the best finish and longevity. Thanks for watching
@@WHITLEYAUTOWORKS kool thanks
The problem isn't the UPOL clear - rustoleum is a different type of paint that really shouldn't be topcoated with urethane clear. It isn't an automotive type paint. If you want to go cheap ( which we all like at one time or another) ,go with an acrylic enamel basecoat ,several companies make it, I have used dupont, R-M, acme, Sherwin-Williams also make good cheaper bases. They can also be activated w/ hardener and work really well with just about any urethane clear coat. I have used UPOL clear on alot of jobs, and never had a problem. Their spot & panel clear, as well as the overall clear are good stuff. Im not criticizing your work,the job turned out good looking, but the solvents are going to take a while to evaporate out. Hope that helps you.! Keep on going!😊😊
If you go for an acrylic enamel basecoat, is it necessary for hardner to be added to the base if finishing with a 2k clear?
@The1Music2MyEars no it's not necessary but just depends on what kind of enamel base coat you use because there are different types some call for a hardener and some don't. Thanks for watching!
Good job bro!
Looks great to me 😎
The problem isn’t the clear. Rustoleum needs a few days sitting, then you can block the rustoleum and clear it.
The rustoleum needs about a week before clear from my experience if you don’t want issues.
I love fc720 finish1
Thanks for sharing!
Always had same problem as you tried Japan dryer it was night and day difference.
I prefer the space on the bumper under the headlights to be flat black; other than that, it looks good.
I spoke too soon, just visited the Amazon link and found the suggested product list.
Good job son. I'm inspired to do kinda the same thing. I'm a new subscriber and was wondering if you do painting equipment / gun recommendations for DIY'rs? I want to start doing small jobs at first with a small sized HVLP gun. I have the compressor. Thanks for taking the time and explaining clearly.
I think i commented this before, but some of those modern cryatal clear headlight assmblies would look good. Maybe some led bulbs. They are pretty cheap online and even made of glass.
(Pause) I had a 1991 like that.... The only other body style I like besides this one is the 1978... The 1st year with the rubber front clip. The 1977 had the chrome/aluminum bumper. Dad had a 77 and he always wanted the 70 model that just had the corner bumpers with the oval grill.... So what he done was, cut the center section out the bumper (on the 77) and took another top half (of the grill) from a different 77 and flipped it upside down. Then bolted it to the top half and where the point of the 2 grills he bolted on a 396 emblem from a 1969 SS Chevelle. I've never seen another mod like that since.... He done all that in 1990. He cramped a BB 396 in that 77 Camaro WITH full Hooker headers. He had to use the low profile value covers because of the brake booster/master cylinder.
Thanks for the upload and the memories! (Now I can finish watching the video lol)
Oh by the way, you want to see a sexy hood scoop that looks awesome on the older Camaro? Look up the *L88 Corvette scoop* It's badass
Add a little japan dryer additive to the rustoloium it helps.
looking good
Nice!
You know what I think would look good? is some classic camero hood racing stripes. I saw a pic online of a burnt orange camaro that was the same gen as yours and had the same hood as yours with two thick black racing stripes on the hood bulge. It looked pretty slick.
you need to give it time to dry before you clearcoat it. I let it dry 3 weeks indoors then block it out with 600 grit and clear coat it. if you can still smell the paint on the car, it's not dry yet. that hood really needs blocking though...
Just like the days of acrylic enamel. It could take weeks to dry sometimes. That’s why I like lacquer
Love ypur honesty ,and sharing the real world issues , true craftsman
Beautiful color
I believe that happened because you should have let the enamel completely dry before applying the clear also a pear carrier binder is the best way to spray that peal but the nice part is that people now no that you can apply auto clear over house paint just add pearl if you're wanting a metallic nice.
Yeah I've had this happen multiple times with different products just the nature of the game sometimes everything's cured out good now so no big deal many factors The weather humidity hardener the clear system etc but it's all sorted out thanks for watching!
John, LOOKS GREAT. I'm thinking about the Safety Red on my 94 F350 crew cab. Can you do a color shift with the red. What would compliment it. THANK YOU for your time. Time is so precious and something you can never get back.
I appreciate your comment honestly when it comes to colorshifts over red I think anything with a gold in it over red really pops out more than anything else and compliments the red I've done quite a few colorshifts over red check out the olive colorshift vid if you get a chance just an example.
ruclips.net/video/3YzJ-ZT5m2I/видео.htmlsi=uYdsIf9ZHu_gyMLB
Thanks for watching!!!
Is it possible that the petroleum based rustoleum needs more time to “breath out” or fully cure before the clear was put on?
Yes very possible but I've also just had some clear coats not work period with Rustoleum regardless. I tell everyone to use 2k urethane clear coat in combination with Rust-Oleum it will work well together and dry at a rate that allows everything to cure out as it should and it's never given me issues thanks for watching!!!
looks like the camaro maui blue color, need to add XO hardener to the rust oleum, shines better and dries better
Looks good just needs a stripe or something to break it up a bit. I'm going to paint my 3rd gen soon. I've never sprayed a car before so we will see how it turns out.
Looks great for what it is. I hope mine turns out that good. Does the speed coat dry good and fast n hard to buff out?
Yeah the speedo coat works great it's usually dry in about 6 to 8 hours so in 24 to 48 hours it should be plenty good to cut and buff thanks for watching
Now after the fact do you think the speedo coat would have been a better choice?
Yes I think it would have thanks for watching
I like the blue, but would like it better if it was darker. Would it be feasible to darken it a little by adding some black rustoleum?
Yes you can always tint your Rust-Oleum to your liking thanks for watching!!!
Rapid Blue Base with pearl
Have you ever used clear coat of Novol?
No that's a new one on me
Thanks for the feedback John. Please people give John a Thumbs up.
Appreciate it!!!!
Did you use any hardner?? Or Japan drier ??
No I typically don't when I do these paint jobs with clear coat but I have always had good results using 2k urethane clear coat and have never had any issues with it. I've tried it many other ways with other clear coats and gotten all kinds of reactions in the past I just took a chance with the upol this time and it didn't work out as well. Thanks for watching!!!
They do sell urethane house paint now that will except auto clears with no problem. I'm just saying
Rustoleum just isn't meant to be cleared over... save yourself the headache and buy real basecoat, it will last longer and the end result will be worth the cost difference
looks good, but I would have either 2 toned it or put stripes on the hood and rear deck , it's way to much blue and really takes away from the body lines of the car. just my opinion
You're not wrong I agree some contrast is always pretty cool and fits the car we might do something it's not my car I will see what he wants to do but regardless thanks for your comment and thanks for watching!!!
Hi Johnathan, When you say the paint is not drying and is soft are you talking about the Rustoleum is still soft or the clear coat is soft or both? Maybe I missed your explanation on why it's still soft. In the previous video, you mentioned you waited 45 minutes then applied the clear coat over the Rustolem. Perhaps you needed to add some acrylic hardener to the Rustoleum?
The Rust-Oleum is still somewhat soft underneath I have had this issue before in the past it will cure out it just takes time Yes I could have added a hardener to possibly counteract the issue but also it might have fault with the activator from the clear coat I usually never had this issue with a urethane based clear coat so I took a chance on a new system which is why I tell everyone stick with a 2K urethane clear because regardless whether you add hardener or not to the Rustoleum it typically always works very well together same as any other automotive grade paint job thanks for watching!
Wash the windows man
Upol clear is trash. I've used it over automotive paint but never again. It stayed soft!!! Now I use finish1
Yeah after this experience I would have to agree but I've never used it before so now I know and everybody else that watches the video will know too lol thanks for watching!!!
That sucks, I’m sorry! The color turned out really cool though. Are you thinking about painting the headlight buckets black? As a nod to the IROCs and Z28’s of course.