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do the purple 18 round talons exist now?

Is there a straight wire connecter that can handle the watts/amps of a xt60? Sort of, if you could cut a xt60 in half, allowing each wire to move independently. Backstory: I bought a board, has to be assembled. Can't connect the battery to the Controller Box as the xt60 is too large to make it through the cable hole connector. They told me that I need to clip off the xt60, run it through, then somehow reattach. Thanks

These switches are deeply disappointing, and very misleading say you want to have your water gauge and it's backlight on a day/night setting, then you'd want 1/0/(2 both on) the fact that this just makes the switch 2 switches in 1, but a switch that only allows you to use one side at a time makes them frankly useless. Stupid.

This was super helpful I purchased the orange one from you guys and I love it so much it’s my favorite blaster thanks for the tips

So it’s rock solid

Does the blaster have battery undervolt protection?

Who modded it to take talons?

How does the plunger volume on this compare to some popular blasters?

do you plan to sell pre modded bk2s's with the talon conversion for those less mod-brained?

Insert the m lok taps with a little slack and tighten and the taps will turn and fasten as you tighten

The air brake gasket on top of the hex standoff at the end of the blaster broke on mine. I replaced it just with some fabric as a brake instead, but do you know why it broke?

Great job Parry! (Hope I got your name right) This was a very helpful overview. What is the stock FPS? Is it low enough for HvZ or can it be modded to hit that 120 mark?

are you guys ever gonna sell the bk1s

Pretty sure there are already mods for a new mag release that compliments the talon mod so you can use any talons or kodas.

The orange cover for the shroud seems like a smart addition, makes me glad I pre-ordered my BK2s from you.

Will there ever be a spring upgrade for the return spring so it seals better when you let the prime go.

I got a unicorn very recently, but it seems as though the screw port for the top rail that’s built into the blaster (not the piece that you snap into place) is too small for the screws that came with it. Am I missing something, using the wrong screws, or is it a blaster error?

Got my Harrier up to 295fps with the standard 368mm barrel and the 1.6x300 spring, including the sabre internals. But recommend the 450mm barrel as it is much more consistent, way less fps deviation.

I have a question: Previously I had a worker swift which I stored and barely used. I kept the weaker spring in. The plastic deteriorated over time causing cracks which completely destroyed the blaster. Since then I've been wary of increasing any springloads in my blasters including the worker harrier. In your experience, has the Harrier met any structural integrity issues?

I’m ordering on of these soon with a crooked cousin as an under barrel launcher

I wish I could get an orange Seagull from an Australian retailer

Is there a stronger spring i could use in my harrier? I already have the 1.6x300 and metal upgrades with an average of 300fps but wouldnt mind pushing it to the max but seems like no one has really gone farther than that.

how come my slab doesnt shoot? I followed the trigger tuning part but it didn't work

I lost my allen key so whats the size of the key?

Awesome

Im not keen on the flared rear design

Damn, put it together and its not catching...

Does this fit with a retaliator or alpha trooper?

What would you recommend to do to get it down to 100-110 fps?

The weirdest thing I’ve found in my Harrier’s plunger tube after a game was two entire blades of grass

Is this only on the threaded version?

This is one of the best blasters available! Weird way to operate, but I love it!

One problem I've had in the hobby is measuring O-rings for replacements. Do you have any tips for this?

Luke in your opinion what is the optimum time for an air seal? I find myself chasing at least 3-5 seconds by 3d printing new plungers until I reach it but I am curious if it's overkill

My tips/experience: * I taped several wraps of teflon to the stock rod to prevent it from collapsing, which is a common issue especially after a few weeks of use and abuse. - This also removes the ability to collapse it in to minimize it, but I find that I never use the in between position and if I wanna minimize it for storage I just take the stock off completely. * Do not attach a sling to the stock or hold the blaster by the stock. This wears out the notches (both ways). I was holding my blaster by the stock facing downwards and the stock slipped + blaster fell down barrel first and dented my floor. * Make sure to mark the front of the little priming block that the pump grip picatinny rails attach to (I personally used a silver sharpie). This makes it easier reassemble since you don’t have to test which way is correct (the screws will not attach the lower pic rail if the priming block isn’t in the right direction). * The black nylon/plastic internals tend to leave a black stain on anything they touch (o rings, mags, darts, etc) Regarding upgrade parts: * For whatever reason, the upgrade metal plunger doesn’t allow for slam fire IME. * If you are using the threaded barrel adapter and the upgrade metal pusher make sure to push back the pusher when switching barrels, elsewise when removing the threaded barrel it might take out the metal pusher with it. You’d have to go thru the hassle of opening your blaster to thread back on the metal pusher if this happens. This will also wear down your metal pusher o rings and threads - Unlike the default black nylon internal pusher and rambase being 1 piece, The metal pusher is separate and threaded well into the rambase but can still slip out with enough force (IE if pulled out along with the threaded barrel) * IME the thick black o rings that come with the metal upgrade kit are the best, followed by the upgrade green o rings and then the default o rings. * The upgrade 1.7 and 1.8 springs are slightly longer than the default spring, so don’t store the blaster with them in to avoid compression and wearing down the upgrade springs. The 2.0 spring is the same length as the default spring though.

Is it functional without the barrel mechanism?

Excellent video, thank you!

These types of springer maintenance videos are really great! I've been needing to open up my Trion and clean it and this is nice to have as a reference for what to check and clean

I had sicking problems with all 4 of my seagulls but no big deal i'm a modder and just upgraded the trigger spring had an added bonus of really crisping up the trigger pull with the stiffer spring

Hey Luke, what's the size of the opening at the front of the barrel shroud (where the barrel exits the blaster). I've read that the 30mm Worker BCAR can fit comfortably in that housing and be slightly recessed in that opening, can you please confirm.

Which battery is this? I got one from the family reunion discoubt way back, would love to replace that oversized battery for one I can actually fit an alarm on

No air seal for caliburn?

😃 *Promosm*

What is best quality microswitch in this format of size?

There doesnt seem to be anything to hold rail1 and rail2 on. Is this meant to be a press fit?

Are these permanent or can you detach the adapter?

Just got my hardware, working on getting the print together. Wish me luck!

Why would I want one style over the other? What's the difference?

Can you explain why you want the different degrees and what do they produce by using them. Thank you

That is a clone of the Sig MCX stock.