Tips + Tricks: XYL KM9 Unicorn
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- Опубликовано: 8 апр 2024
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Edited by J Perry Heun, Out of Darts Video Editor
So it’s rock solid
My tips/experience:
* I taped several wraps of teflon to the stock rod to prevent it from collapsing, which is a common issue especially after a few weeks of use and abuse.
- This also removes the ability to collapse it in to minimize it, but I find that I never use the in between position and if I wanna minimize it for storage I just take the stock off completely.
* Do not attach a sling to the stock or hold the blaster by the stock. This wears out the notches (both ways). I was holding my blaster by the stock facing downwards and the stock slipped + blaster fell down barrel first and dented my floor.
* Make sure to mark the front of the little priming block that the pump grip picatinny rails attach to (I personally used a silver sharpie). This makes it easier reassemble since you don’t have to test which way is correct (the screws will not attach the lower pic rail if the priming block isn’t in the right direction).
* The black nylon/plastic internals tend to leave a black stain on anything they touch (o rings, mags, darts, etc)
Regarding upgrade parts:
* For whatever reason, the upgrade metal plunger doesn’t allow for slam fire IME.
* If you are using the threaded barrel adapter and the upgrade metal pusher make sure to push back the pusher when switching barrels, elsewise when removing the threaded barrel it might take out the metal pusher with it. You’d have to go thru the hassle of opening your blaster to thread back on the metal pusher if this happens. This will also wear down your metal pusher o rings and threads
- Unlike the default black nylon internal pusher and rambase being 1 piece, The metal pusher is separate and threaded well into the rambase but can still slip out with enough force (IE if pulled out along with the threaded barrel)
* IME the thick black o rings that come with the metal upgrade kit are the best, followed by the upgrade green o rings and then the default o rings.
* The upgrade 1.7 and 1.8 springs are slightly longer than the default spring, so don’t store the blaster with them in to avoid compression and wearing down the upgrade springs. The 2.0 spring is the same length as the default spring though.
What would you recommend to do to get it down to 100-110 fps?
Will there ever be a spring upgrade for the return spring so it seals better when you let the prime go.
Luke in your opinion what is the optimum time for an air seal? I find myself chasing at least 3-5 seconds by 3d printing new plungers until I reach it but I am curious if it's overkill
One problem I've had in the hobby is measuring O-rings for replacements.
Do you have any tips for this?
I got a unicorn very recently, but it seems as though the screw port for the top rail that’s built into the blaster (not the piece that you snap into place) is too small for the screws that came with it. Am I missing something, using the wrong screws, or is it a blaster error?
i had that problem as well, i fixed it by shaving the edges of the holes down with a knife until they fit. hope this helps!
@@weebwhacker144 I appreciate that! My roommate who’s a lot more of a handyman than myself went in with a drill and drilled out the excess plastic