Hey Luke I would LOVE to see one of these for Silly's Alchemist. I feel like a spring swap on this thing shouldn't take as long as it takes me. This was a great video.
One recommendation I might make to you all, especially if you are having issues with flubs is to get a slightly larger sized nylon thumbscrew from McMaster Carr. The ones included in most kits are 1/4” in thread length, which is okay, but if you instead get the ones that are 3/8” thread length, it allows you to put a little more pressure on the barrel which also helps put more downward force on the catch bars and assembly. Those of you that have issues where you pull the trigger and it doesn’t fire, tighten your thumb screws first. Also if you upgrade to a shroud on the front, the 1/4” thumbscrews are a nightmare to insert and remove, and the 3/8” nylon thumbscrews you’ll find are the perfect length. Great basic Lynx troubleshoot video Luke!
Oh Luke you might also want to touch on all the places to apply Slug Slym. One that you didn’t meantion was actually the catch and you can lubricate that with the priming bars all the way forward through the catchhole. After extended periods of use, This will also help ensure if the catch is sticking on shots, that little bit of lube will help it release the catch.
I'm guessing these tips translate to some extent to all blasters but sure would love a sort of 101 blaster care/maintainance video. The least invasive ways to get a little better performance from a stock blaster. Both spring and if applicable also fly wheel blasters. Thanks!
Love this video and concept, very helpful! It would be great to see something like this for a skewer by you or someone. Just the basics for tuning and maintenance. Haven’t found anything like that yet.
My personal tip to pull the plunger without taking the tube apart from the turn around- remove the spring and reinstall the pump/catch, then just pull it out. Takes 30 seconds total.
Just built my first lynx the other day. It snags when I prime it. It is smooth kf it doesnt snag but i feel i have to angle how i hold my foregrip then pull back. Got the hardware kit from OOD, printed parts are from Kyle of Pinkdragon Tuning
You can find this data on the orion blasters webpage for the lynx, he has an excel file that has data from the public, because the fps doesn’t just depend on the spring, but also barrel length and type, and scar or bcar.
Have you tried replacing the dash 123 oring? If that keeps happening, it’s not preferred but you can alway run a couple laps of Teflon tape under the oring area to add some tightness.
Hey Luke I would LOVE to see one of these for Silly's Alchemist. I feel like a spring swap on this thing shouldn't take as long as it takes me. This was a great video.
One recommendation I might make to you all, especially if you are having issues with flubs is to get a slightly larger sized nylon thumbscrew from McMaster Carr. The ones included in most kits are 1/4” in thread length, which is okay, but if you instead get the ones that are 3/8” thread length, it allows you to put a little more pressure on the barrel which also helps put more downward force on the catch bars and assembly. Those of you that have issues where you pull the trigger and it doesn’t fire, tighten your thumb screws first. Also if you upgrade to a shroud on the front, the 1/4” thumbscrews are a nightmare to insert and remove, and the 3/8” nylon thumbscrews you’ll find are the perfect length. Great basic Lynx troubleshoot video Luke!
Oh Luke you might also want to touch on all the places to apply Slug Slym. One that you didn’t meantion was actually the catch and you can lubricate that with the priming bars all the way forward through the catchhole. After extended periods of use, This will also help ensure if the catch is sticking on shots, that little bit of lube will help it release the catch.
I'm guessing these tips translate to some extent to all blasters but sure would love a sort of 101 blaster care/maintainance video. The least invasive ways to get a little better performance from a stock blaster. Both spring and if applicable also fly wheel blasters. Thanks!
Love this video and concept, very helpful! It would be great to see something like this for a skewer by you or someone. Just the basics for tuning and maintenance. Haven’t found anything like that yet.
We have that on our to-do list once we sell kits for the Skewer ourselves. Stay tuned!
My personal tip to pull the plunger without taking the tube apart from the turn around- remove the spring and reinstall the pump/catch, then just pull it out. Takes 30 seconds total.
I do this also
How does the plunger airseal work? the oring tightened isnt actually in contact with the plunger?
Just built my first lynx the other day. It snags when I prime it. It is smooth kf it doesnt snag but i feel i have to angle how i hold my foregrip then pull back. Got the hardware kit from OOD, printed parts are from Kyle of Pinkdragon Tuning
This blaster is all the way perfect.
Very helpful, if I got one. My only question is what is the performance of each spring listed, and what does GREY ANNODIZED bars do to the blaster?
You can find this data on the orion blasters webpage for the lynx, he has an excel file that has data from the public, because the fps doesn’t just depend on the spring, but also barrel length and type, and scar or bcar.
Also the grey anodized bars are for show and will help protect the bars from some scratching and discoloration
@@MidnightBlasters Thank you
I’m ordering on of these soon with a crooked cousin as an under barrel launcher
i have a problem of my big oring in the plunger always shrinking and not sealing the air in. idk what causes it to shrink because it happens often.
Have you tried replacing the dash 123 oring? If that keeps happening, it’s not preferred but you can alway run a couple laps of Teflon tape under the oring area to add some tightness.